(I don't know you name): I've used enough of Avid's different BB7 models to know that even one-sided (only one pad is moved) mechanical discs can be set up to provide outstanding and consistent power with little problem from rotor rub (I do find that, when the pads are contaminated, as when they are wet, or after riding through 1/4 mile of 3" sand, I might hear a few "whiff-whiff-whiffs" until the environment returns to more normal).
I have been very pleasantly surprised at the performance of Avid's current Road BB7. Using stock Shimano aero levers, I can set the pads comfortably far from the rotors, get solid braking, yet preserve that "solid" lever feel that I never got with the Mountain version of the BB7 and both Tektro and Cane Creek V brake levers. In fact, I could easily release my pads even more, for more lever travel, and still have all the qualities described. Secrets to setup: most important, learning that while lever travel is linear, actuation arm travel increases with pull, so that you must clamp your arm to your cable until the arm has moved 25-30% through its arc. Also: I switched from generic housing to Jagwire; perhaps this helped too, though I've not isolated the arm attachment from the different housing. At any rate, while I'd probably buy -- Spyres? -- the model that actuates both pads, if I were to do this again, the current BB7 Roads are impeccable. Patrick Moore On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 8:17 AM, RJM <crccpadu...@gmail.com> wrote: > I'm a disc brake lover for mountain biking, but not a mechanical disk > brake lover. Every mechanical one I've had has performed subpar and given > me setup issues...especially compared to hydraulic discs. > > It has been my experience that with a good set of hydraulic brakes (one > that squeezes both pads onto the rotor and not the kind that have only one > piston that squeeze one pad and then the rotor onto the other pad. I hope > that makes sense) and a quality initial setup, brake rub isn't an issue > unless you bend a rotor. At that point, the fix is using care to bend the > rotor back without adjusting the caliper. > > On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 10:09:11 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote: > >> I'm putting this in a new thread, because I have some questions. Note: >> I'm not disagreeing, I'm asking because I want to know more. >> >> Clayton said, in the Rivs On Block thread: >> >> *- More margin betw. rim and brake to adjust for rub. Disc brakes usually >> have much tighter clearances and make it a much more fiddly affair to get >> rid of rub (applies mostly to hydros)* >> *- Typically lighter weight* >> *[...]* >> *- Pads tend to last longer* >> >> #1: I agree that this is very true for mechanical discs, but for >> hydraulics? I thought that pads for hydraulics allowed more gap than those >> for mechanicals, at least once-sided-pull mechanicals. For me, this isn't >> merely academic; it may influence my choice of mechanicals over hydraulics >> one day. >> >> #2: Yes, calipers are lighter, but then disc-specific rims can be much >> lighter than rim brake rims, at least in the wider sizes. >> >> #3: I've read that this is true; I've also read the opposite (recently, >> in a review of some disc setup -- Bike Radar? Which one is true? >> >> I do know that my Kool Stop salmons seem to last years if not decades. >> >> -- >> *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, >> LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's >> more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price >> contract. And still more! I am offering services in trade for a road bike, >> or frame and parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 >> to 1961. See my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.* >> >> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews. >> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching. >> Other professional writing services. >> http://www.resumespecialties.com/ >> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/ >> Patrick Moore >> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Vereinigte Staaten >> ************************************************************ >> **************************** >> >> >> >> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price contract. And still more! I am offering services in trade for a road bike, or frame and parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 to 1961. See my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.* Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews. By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching. Other professional writing services. http://www.resumespecialties.com/ www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/ Patrick Moore Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Vereinigte Staaten ************************************************************************** ************** -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. 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