"If hydraulics are just a fiddly as, or even more fiddly"

I guess I need a definition of the term 'fiddly'.  When I hear the word 
'fiddly', my brain hears "I'm not a mechanic, and I don't know how things 
work, and no matter how much random wrenching I throw at this subsystem of 
the bike, it never works well.  Don't ask me what I tried because I don't 
remember"

I think you, Patrick Moore, mean something other than that when you say 
fiddly, but I don't know what that definition is.  The point with 
hydraulics is that you don't adjust them.  They adjust themselves.  If 'to 
fiddle' is a synonym of 'to adjust' or 'to tune', then you don't do any of 
that.  You basically set them up.  

Setting up a hydraulic disk brake involves resetting the brake pads 
(spreading them wide open with a suitable plastic brake pry-bar).  Then you 
put the wheel in, and you pump the brake lever.  The pistons work their way 
in until the brakepads find the rotor.  Only when they hit the rotor to the 
return springs make the pistons open a tiny bit.  That's it.  You are done. 
 If you think the caliper is off center in some way, reposition it and 
start over.  There is no adjustment, no fiddling.  So, I think you would 
say they are less fiddly because you don't have to fiddle with them, but 
you better like them, because you can't fiddle with them, at least not in 
the way I think you would consider important (pad clearance from the rotor).

Bill

On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> This is good to know. If hydraulics are just a fiddly as, or even more 
> fiddly (depending on the make and model) than good mechanical discs, then I 
> have no need for them. I suppose I'd want them for riding really steep 
> technical stuff, but for my sort of riding, any good cable operated brake, 
> disc or rim, is easily adequate.
>
> So, I'll scratch hydraulics. Now, to learn if the 2-sided actuated 
> mechanicals are easier to set up for less rub and more power than single 
> action ones like the BB7. Once again, I am very happy with my BB7s, so 
> seeking out Spyres or whatever they are would be like dropping Julia 
> Roberts to pursue Cindy Crawford (I'm out of date, I know it, but these are 
> the only pretty faces I can think of at the moment). But if Spyres (or 
> whatever) allow bigger pad distances with the same or better power, then 
> they might be worth buying at some point. Me, I haven't found adjustment 
> for pad wear a matter needing attention, with the BB7s I've used.
>
> On Fri, Jun 23, 2017 at 10:31 AM, Bill Lindsay <tape...@gmail.com 
> <javascript:>> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Jeremy
>>
>> This is the reason that I suspect the OP Patrick Moore would dislike 
>> hydraulic brakes.  Or, more accurately, why his reaction to hydraulic brake 
>> X would be binary.  Either it will self-adjust to perfect, and he's love 
>> them, or they would self-adjust to imperfect, and he'd hate the inability 
>> to do much about it.  
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 8:04:55 AM UTC-7, Jeremy Till wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey Bill--no that's right, hydraulic calipers don't really give you any 
>>> adjustment other than alignment.  I was noting that some hydraulics seem to 
>>> run with their pads a bit further from the rotor than others, and that as 
>>> with mechanical rim brakes, this seems to be related to the leverage 
>>> characteristics of the braking system.  
>>>
>>>
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