Thank you Clayton .   I have one bike that I use WL Clean Ride with and 
have for 4 years or so. Before that I used Squirt water based wax lube. It 
was much thicker but in the end I found no real world difference in wear of 
chains or cog teeth.  

So, I'm gonna try just a surface cleaning of the outside of the chains and 
then CR. Like you, I found removing factory lube a bad idea. I prefer not 
cleaning a chain at all .  FWIW, with CR I found the only way to not waste 
it is to position the rear derailler in a small cog/small chainring 
position, so the chain is at an angle. I place a piece of cardboard next to 
the spokes and a rag underneath. I use a copper wire end and slightly 
enlarge the tip of the bottle, or else it tends to stream sporadically. 
Then I rotate the chain backwards while just TILTING the bottle to get a 
thin stream between the jockey wheels on the chain, rotate about 12-15 
times which is enough to saturate the chain but not be dripping all over. A 
few drips is alright. Then I just let it dry overnight, I don't even bother 
wiping it off, I suppose I could, I guess I forget about it. I probably get 
anywhere between 120-150 miles I suppose on it as-is. It seems better in 
warm weather. I only wipe it off before a relube.  I may get a very small 
amount of build up between the 13-15t small cogs, but a screw driver 
removes it fine.  A clean "looking" chain I don't care about, just a 
working chain is fine with me. 

I bought the quart sized a number of years ago and I have yet to use it 
all. It was maybe $26 at the time. The tops of the bottles come off, you 
may need some pliers held gently, then a small funnel to fill . As you 
know  .... shake shake shake those bottles !  



On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 7:52:05 PM UTC-4, Clayton wrote:
>
> Garth, I'm still in the 'trying out the Clean Lube phase". I degreased my 
> chain with citrus degreaser, but not by soaking it. I brushed it on with a 
> stiff brush while on the bike, and let it sit for a couple of minutes. That 
> left most of the factory grease intact in the rollers, but removed the 
> exterior grease. I washed the drive chain again with Dawn dish soap, let it 
> dry and lubed it with the White Lightening clean lube. I re-lube every two 
> or three rides off road (with lots of rag wipe down afterward) and less 
> often on road. So far, my drivetrain is staying very clean, but I am going 
> to measure my chain for stretch more often until I have some confidence in 
> the lube. Keeping all crap out of the pins and rollers interface is most 
> important for preventing chain stretch, and by leaving the factory grease 
> in there, it keeps dirt out. The heavy viscosity of the grease prevents pin 
> and roller contact. Chains last longer. Keeping the exterior of the chain 
> grit free, helps prevent cog and chainring wear. The problem is how to do 
> both, so I am trying this out, "Semi-degreasing". Eventually, the interior 
> grease while be depleted and replaced by the dry lube. 
>
> I have a question that I have pondered for a long time......Does the build 
> up of the solids, from the semi-clean dry lubes on the cogs prevent wear? I 
> looked at my cog set right at the bearing surface of the teeth, and there 
> was a black hard-ish coating from using a dry lube.  Excessive grunge and 
> grit is bad, but where is the exact line of cleanliness to provide maximum 
> drive train life? Without exterior lube on the rollers, do the chainrings 
> and cogs wear quicker? Wear less? 
>   
> The White Lightening clean lube is thin and makes a bit of a mess during 
> application. Dripping it on each link does not work. I go through it much 
> quicker than the dry lube, both because of the runny viscosity but also the 
> need to reapply much more often, which could get expensive. It makes no 
> sense to use forty dollars of chain lube trying to lengthen the life of my 
> forty dollar chain, but I hope to hell it prevents premature wear of my 
> absurdly expensive cog set. I have yet to decide if I like it, but plan on 
> using it on all three bikes this summer for a thorough test. I have two to 
> go through and clean yet. They have much cheaper drive trains and can wait. 
> I have been too busy riding. 
>
> Clayton
> #DirtDance
>
>
>
> On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 2:48:14 PM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>>
>>
>> Clayton, do you apply the WL Clean Ride over a factory lubed , wiped 
>> down, chain ?(ridden a few miles or not)  Cleaning the chain prior I always 
>> have to reapply often at first as the first applications simply do get 
>> INSIDE the chain and it squeaks quickly at first.   If I didn't have to 
>> clean the darn chain before using Clean Ride I'd still use it on both 
>> bikes, I simply prefer to never clean a chain, I've done it so many times I 
>> just enough. 
>>
>> I assumed it would create a mess but never bothered trying it that way. 
>>
>>
>> On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 1:03:49 PM UTC-4, Clayton wrote:
>>>
>>> White lightening clean lube after every two or three rides with a good 
>>> chain wipe down, keeps my chain very clean. I have a very 'spensive cog set 
>>> that I can't afford to replace at three hundred plus dollars. (It was a 
>>> gift from my son). One thing I have learned after thirty years, is don't 
>>> degrease your new chain. Chains last much longer with the factory grease 
>>> inside the rollers. True story.   
>>>
>>> Clayton
>>> #DirtDance
>>>
>>> On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 4:54:19 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I did a search on this and was surprised not to find anything. (Except 
>>>> waxing cloth!)
>>>>
>>>> After 40+ years of cleaning and lubing chains I may be ready to try 
>>>> wax.  I recently got a recipe & process on the tandem list but wondered 
>>>> about the experience of people on this list.  How much extra work is it? 
>>>>  How much longer does it last than "dry lubes?"  Does it make a difference 
>>>> what kind of environment you ride in, eg, Santa Fe vs Seattle?
>>>>
>>>> Michael
>>>>
>>>

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