Actually, a threaded headset's adjustment is quite easy to understand.
It's obvious, really: there are nuts that are clearly meant to be
tightened or loosened. Threadless is another story: there's no visible
means of support, other than maybe mash down hard on the stem and then
clamp it down, but that hardly seems to make any sense, and if that was
how it was supposed to work it couldn't possibly be very accurate.
But my point is simply that for all the talk about how simple it is,
I've yet to find anybody on a ride who knew how to adjust one even
though they all had them and they all had the tools. (And no, I have no
idea how to do it. I can do a fair job with a threaded headset, though.)
And I should add, the only bike I ever had that had an issue with the
threaded headset loosening turned out to be a problem with the washers
not being thick enough. Once that was fixed, no further problems. Of
course I don't ride MTB.
On 07/24/2018 12:37 PM, masmojo wrote:
Grant, yes that's the technique I use (learned working in a bike shop 37 years
ago), but no matter, eventually they come loose. Steel headsets tend to stay in
place better, fewer problems with loosening, but they're heavy. Aluminum on the
other hand comes loose no matter. I discover mine is loose typically on
washboard surfaces when I'm miles from home.
Steve, thing is people who can't adjust a threadless headset are going to have
a hard time wrapping their head around a threaded headset/quill stem as well.
--
Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia
USA
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