Are 7 speed cassett or freewheels readily available? I thought that 7 and 8 
speeds were getting hard to find.            Jim D.                   
Massachusetts

--- On Mon, 4/19/10, rperks <perks....@gmail.com> wrote:

From: rperks <perks....@gmail.com>
Subject: [RBW] Re: Heavy rider wheel issues
To: "RBW Owners Bunch" <rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com>
Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 3:03 PM

Get Rich to build up a Phil freewheel hub dishless, 36 spokes and 7
speed.  This should last you a very long time, and in my opinion is
one of the best values in the wheel market at the moment. - Rob

On Apr 19, 10:02 am, Thomas Lynn Skean <thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> Hi, all. I seek counsel.
>
> I weigh about 250 lbs. I often carry 10-15 lbs on a rear rack. I ride
> a Trek hybrid, sitting bolt-upright. (By the way, this Trek is about
> as Riv'd up as any Trek could be. Actual Riv relevance: Later this
> year I'll also be riding a Hillborne and any counsel I receive will
> apply to it for sure; maybe/maybe-not for the Trek. Also, the riding I
> do is very much non-clubby, non-race-y, and non-trivial in distance;
> this seems to match up with Riv philosophy and thus seems appropriate
> for this group.) I use 700x35 tires on 32- or 36-spoke wheels at about
> 60 psi. I ride 70-100 miles/week 12 months a year (I bet that'll rise
> when I get the Hillborne), over half on limestone trail. I'm actually
> pretty easy on the bike in general, avoiding obstacles/rough path
> where practical, lifting the wheel and slowing down when I don't avoid
> the hazard.
>
> My problem is that I haven't gotten more than 1000 miles on any rear
> wheel without complete failure (cracked hub, bent axle) or the need
> for repair (hub overhaul, multiple spoke breakage, rim *way* out-of-
> true-or-round). The wheels I've used include some cheapies and some
> good ones. Some were better to use than others. But all were okay to
> use (until they failed :( ). More wheel details later.
>
> My preliminary question is: should I simply expect to have these
> problems every thousand (or two) miles? That is, will I likely have
> problems like these at that rate no matter *what* wheel I have? If so,
> then my plan will likely be to go for a value proposition instead of a
> reliability one. That is, I'll settle with a cheap wheel, always
> having a backup, knowing that I'll have to replace/repair/adjust more
> often than I'd like. That'd be okay, I guess... though it seems wrong
> in some profound way; after all, I've literally never *had* to replace
> any of my non-Pasela tires. I've put at least 3000 miles on my most
> recent set and still *could* use the originals the Trek came with. (I
> went through 4 Paselas in short order, with all of them failing in the
> same way with a sidewall eruption. Too bad. I liked the gum sidewall
> look.)
>
> However, if these wheel problems are avoidable (yes, yes... I know...
> losing 80-90 pounds would go a long way; let's assume that's not
> happening short-term), what kind of wheel will avoid them? Wheels I've
> used thus far include:
>
> --- Shimano RM60 (Alivio-ish?) hub / 32 2|1.8|2mm spokes / cheapish
> Alex rim - lasted about 1000 miles before breaking spokes, eventually
> on 3 rides in a row
>
> --- 105 hub / 36 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe a little
> over 1000 miles before 4 holes-worth of drive-side hub snapped off of
> the hub body
>
> --- Deore hub / 32 2mm spokes / Sun CR18 rim - lasted maybe 400 miles
> before breaking spokes on 3 or 4 rides in a row (had 2 of these on the
> the theory that the first one was not "prepped" properly... 2nd one
> was no different with "prep") - eventually I bent an axle on one of
> these, the other one (having been re-laced and re-trued and
> overhauled) is now my snow/ice wheel and will see little mileage
>
> --- XT hub / 36 2|1.7|2mm spokes / Velocity Synergy OC rim - lasted
> around 1000 miles before periodic ka-tink ka-tink noise appeared in
> the hub; am currently looking into whether this is a fatal problem or
> simply a maintenance issue
>
> Now, if the current XT-hubbed wheel's problems turn out to be readily
> solvable (adjustment of bearings, regreasing, something like that)
> then I'm happy to stay with this kind of wheel. The spokes seem to
> maintain tension reasonably well and the rim has only minor touch-up
> every few hundred miles to keep it very true and round. I like the
> fact that the drive-side spokes are not *that* much more tight than
> the non-drive side because of the asymmetry.
>
> However, if it turns out that it *is* a fatal or unacceptably-severe
> problem (and surely one can appreciate my pessimism on this matter), I
> wonder: What sort of wheel do I need?
>
> I don't want to needlessly ride a wheel with 48 spokes and a 3 pound
> hub (exaggerating, perhaps... but still... you get the point). But I
> will ride a 48-spoke-3-pound-hub-wheel if that's the only way to avoid
> these problems. Nor do I want to pay $500+ if a $200 wheel will give
> me a reasonable level of reliability with reasonable ride quality.
> Let's assume for argument's sake that I would be willing to go for the
> $500+ wheel if it would be expected to simply work (and work well, of
> course) for 1000s of miles with only normal maintenance-type service.
>
> Help? Thoughts? Musings?
>
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