"I can't figure out what damage removing the set screw could do.
 The pad is not going to slide off the front of the break shoe holder as 
the front of the holder is closed. The pad will not back out of the holder 
because friction from the wheel pushes the pad forward."

There are some cases where one applies the brakes -AND- pulls the bike in 
the backwards direction.  As long as you don't ever do that, and you're 
sure nobody else will do that to your bike, then you'll probably be fine 
with no set-screws.  I sometimes grab the front brake and pull the bike 
front to back to check the headset pre-load.  I sometimes use my Aardvark 
Ankle Biter velcro leg band as a parking brake for the bike on BART or 
locked up.  Sometimes the force on the bike is backwards.  I've had some 
steep trail walking situations where I'll lunge the bike forward, grab the 
brakes and pull myself up.  If I did any of those and pulled my brake pads 
out, that would be a little annoying.  You'd have to give it a try to see 
if there's any actual risk to doing that.  Some combos slide in (and out) 
more easily than others.  I would put the risk as "small". 

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Tuesday, June 24, 2025 at 9:18:52 AM UTC-7 Bernard Duhon wrote:

>
>
> As I indicated, I am going to keep an eye on the pad to see if that cut 
> pad delaminates from the interior metal frame.
>
> On the same note. All of the standard road shoes have a set screw in them. 
> Removing the set screw gives me an extra 4 mm of clearance for removing a 
> wheel. I can't figure out what damage removing the set screw could do.
>  The pad is not going to slide off the front of the break shoe holder as 
> the front of the holder is closed. The pad will not back out of the holder 
> because friction from the wheel pushes the pad forward.
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on 
> behalf of Cormac O'Keeffe <[email protected]>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 24, 2025 12:29 AM
> *To:* [email protected] <[email protected]>
>
> *Subject:* Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne front wheel removal
>
> I looked around online before asking here, but I couldn't really find out 
> why v-brake pads are longer than sidepull or cantilever brakes in the first 
> place. Would running shorter pads create a problem ?
>
> On Mon, 23 June 2025, 19:27 Bernard Duhon, <[email protected]> 
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I have four bikes and eight sets of wheels. It's like having eight bikes.  
> so removing the wheels is important.
>  I purchased the Koolstop city Tread brake shoe. It was still too long so  
> I got out  my hack saw and sawed off a centimeter.    The internal metal 
> frame is visible. I intend on riding the bike as the sawed-off portion is 
> forward facing
>  After having to sawed the city thread. I dug out a Koolstop V brake and 
> took a hack saw to it.  The same internal metal frame.
> I am no longer required to deflate the tires to removal wheel.  Which is 
> great. 
> I will however I will keep an eye on these brakes to see if they 
> deconstruct on me.
>
>
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>
>  
> ------------------------------
> *From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> on 
> behalf of Garth <[email protected]>
> *Sent:* Friday, June 20, 2025 1:13 PM
> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch <[email protected]>
> *Subject:* Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne front wheel removal 
>  
> For the heck of it I cut and pried the rubber off one the pads on an Eagle 
> Claw. It appears the pad holders may be dipped in a mold and rubber poured 
> in and that fills all the cavities of the holder. You can see where I cut 
> off the end portion of the pad and filed it down using a heavy metal file, 
> by hand. To cut the pad I've used both Fiskars utility shears and a Snap-On 
> Linesman pliers. Modified just enough so it clears the frame. I don't have 
> any other kind of pad so I can't speak to anything else, but I assume any 
> threaded KS pad would also have some sort of internal frame for strength 
> and stability. There's no loss of braking in using a shorter pad either. 
>
> With the Odyssey pads I suppose for one's own reference you could buy all 
> three compounds and see what does what as descriptions can't depict actual 
> usage for given riders setup. 
>
>  https://shop.odysseybmx.com/products/odyssey-ghost-pads
>
>
>
> On Friday, June 20, 2025 at 8:24:29 AM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:
>
> I once used a power tool (angle grinder or dremel) to shorten a brake pad, 
> and my garage smelled like burnt rubber for the rest of the day. 
>
> Eric
>
> On Fri, Jun 20, 2025 at 8:14 AM Garth <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> There's also the option for modifying the pads that come with the brakes, 
> as in using a shears and/or hacksaw to shorten them. I shorten the 
> Koll-Stop Eagle Claw smooth post pads.There's an internal metal frame 
> around the rubber. I can't say what kind of frame if any is on any other 
> pad, so that would require cutting one apart and seeing what's inside. 
> Holding the pad in a bench vice makes it easier to work with. Once cut 
> and/or sawed off, use a metal file to smooth the edges. Only the portion 
> that hits the frame need be modified, but it doesn't hurt if shortened on 
> both ends. This way one can still use their preferred compound without 
> having to resort to deflating a tire just to remove it, which to me is just 
> insane to design a brake that would require that.  
> On Thursday, June 19, 2025 at 11:45:56 PM UTC-4 J wrote:
>
> A BMX friends told me long ago that the Odyssey pads can leave marks on 
> rims because they are soft, so he use the clear colored... uncolored pads
>
> On Thursday, June 19, 2025 at 7:06:00 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>
> The brand of pads Riv sells are in the description Odyssey Ghost pads, 
> available from them direct or many BMX retailers. 
>
> On Thursday, June 19, 2025 at 5:57:54 PM UTC-4 [email protected] wrote:
>
> I haven't tried these, but they're similar to what Nick and Bill mentioned 
> and they seem to take road pads. 
> https://jagwire.com/products/brake-pads/cross-rim-brake-pads
>
> On Tuesday, June 17, 2025 at 7:18:47 PM UTC+2 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Rivendell used to sell "Sanity Brake Pads" to address this issue 
> directly.  They are out of stock at Riv now, but various stubby brake pads 
> are available from BMX-adjacent sellers for exactly this use case.  If it 
> were me, I would run a set of Kool Stop VANs brake shoes.  I trust Kool 
> Stop, and I love VANs, and I think it would be a fun and ironic set up 
> choice on a Rivendell build which would still result in excellent braking.  
> Lots of fun colors and a cheap $10 experiment. 
>
>
> https://www.danscomp.com/kool-stop-vans-brake-pads-threaded-sky-blue-pair-ks-vblu/p619844
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
> On Sunday, June 15, 2025 at 8:46:45 AM UTC-7 [email protected] wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm having trouble removing the front wheel on my Sam because it won't fit 
> past the v-brakes even after opening the quick release. I have to actually 
> loosen a brake pad and move it out of the way to squeeze the wheel through. 
> Strangely, I don't have this issue with the rear wheel it comes off easily 
> once the noodle is disengaged.
>
> I'm running fairly wide tires (700c x 45), which might be part of the 
> problem. Has anyone else run into this? Is there a way to adjust the 
> v-brakes so I don't have to go through this every time I remove the front 
> wheel?
>
>
> Thanks!
> Masood
>
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