on 2/19/11 5:56 AM, Ray Shine at r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

Jim -- Would you lease elaborate no this paragraph that you just posted?
I'd like to understand this issue, also. Here's the graph:

"Take a look at the thickness of the hanger - if it's a less expensive
stamped piece, you might try a thicker part. Also, pay attention to the fit
of the ferrule on the cable end. If there's movement there, that will tend
to exacerbate it." 


Happy to try, Ray (and I apologize for any imperfections of language in
advance):

The cable and housing connect directly to the cable hanger.  The cable
hanger is sandwiched  between the nuts on a traditional threaded stem.  The
contact point of the housing end to the hanger is an inch or so away from
the base of the hanger.  As additional force is applied at the brake lever,
there is a potential for the hanger to flex downward toward the front tire.

As the hanger flexes downward, it releases a very slight amount of cable
tension with respect to the brakes themselves. This causes a micro-release
of the brakes, and a resultant un-flexing of the hanger, which retensions
the brakes. 

Cheaper hangers tend to be a stamped piece of metal which flex more.  I've
also seen ferrules grind away at the hanger, ovalising the contact area
(ferrule on the cable end should fit firmly into the stop) or enlarging it
so that there is a slight amount of play.

I was really discusing two variables at the hanger - both the physical
construction of the hanger itself, and any movement in how the cable housing
is secured into it.

hope that makes sense,

- Jim


-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

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"I threw one leg over my battle-scarred all-terrain stump-jumper and rode
several miles to work. I'd sprayed it with some cheap gold paint so it
wouldn't look nice. Locked my bike to a radiator, because you never knew,
and went in."
-- Neal Stephenson, "Zodiac"

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