I have experienced similar experiences after replenishing drivetrain 
consumables (chain, cogs, rings) and cables, which cause me to readjust 
derailleurs/shifters. For sure a fresh drivetrain is touchier about chain 
line until the teeth are burnished by the chain and have more surfaces that 
may pluck at the passing chain instead of moving together smoothly.

 I have experienced some riding which deflects the bottom bracket of the 
frame laterally like low RPM mashing, steepest climbs, heavy or strong 
riders, can deflect the route of the rear derailleur cable and functionally 
changing its tension, inducing momentary out of adjustment sensations. The 
terrain I rode when spending lots of time off road (took a very surprised 
Bridgestone rep Chris Watson out on the trails for an informational ride) 
and the series of mountain bikes I had produced varied degrees of this 
effect. Had to sell my MB-0 within six months because it flexed so much in 
my size I knew I would kill it if I continued to riding in that terrain, in 
that manner. At least it had a cyclic flex limiter; the back wheel. On many 
climbs I would alternate chainstay rubbing, left side, right side, 
continuously unless I changed gear or was able to more effectively spin a 
gear to deemphasize the 9 and 3 power surge of pedal mashing. Clipless 
pedals helped turn smoother circles with fewer power surges. Did find that 
Suntour drivetrains were less susceptible to the effect than Shimano. the 
latter seemed particularly sensitive to being perfectly adjusted.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

> Submitted for your consideration:  a crunchy drivetrain problem on my new 
> Hilsen build.  I’m experiencing some auto-shifting and cog skipping when 
> going uphill, pedaling hard or pedaling out of the saddle.  I’d 
> appreciate the group’s suggestions for a solution
>

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