Thanks, Paul! thats exactly the info i was looking for. Im a bit
apprehensive about making my own springs... do you think welding the
bars to anchor them to the hull or swing arms change the temper of the
springs? Otherwise, I may have to borrow Brads idea with the locking
set screws...Im also trying a modified version of the hacksaw blade
torsion bars in an earlier post... by having the blades inside grease
filled axles there seems to ba a sort of shock absorbing quality im
hoping might help prevent pitching during starts and stops...luckily
ive only got 10 road wheels to work with.

Thanks again,
Ed
p.s  Imagine one of the torsion bars shattering in the full scale
tiger? right under the drivers seat!

On Oct 30, 8:54 am, NavyShooter <cof...@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Here's a peek at a bottom view of my suspension, showing a single
> Torsion bar in place.
>
> http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T066/025-large.jpg
>
> I used 1/4" spring steel, ground a flat on one side, (each one is
> individually ground and fitted) and there's a 1/4" bolt tightened
> against that flat and locked in place with a nut.
>
> They will not move.
>
> I had the springs made up in an industrial shop on the waterfront,
> cost me $5 each.
>
> If they bend, then I'll straghten 'em or make a couple of new ones.
>
> With 4 rods, I can stand on the weighted frame and almost bottom it
> out.  That's my 215 pounds plus the 100+ pounds of the frame.  So,
> that means each wheel can support about 75 pounds.
>
> I have 14 wheels.
>
> That gets me over 1000 pounds.
>
> I hope that's good.
>
> We'll see how durable it is.
>
> Right now, my issue is alignment for the rear idler, and I'm working
> on that this weekend.
>
> Brad

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