It won't work. I don't get picks of my testing but I tryed exacly the same idea. It's hard to explane... When you got your track straight let say that you got .125inch of space between each treads. Yours treads are on the outside of the chain axle so with a larger radius then the chain axle. When your treads go arround let say the idler the chains will do there jobs buy turning arround each pins of the chain. It's make the space between yours treads larger(let say .25inch) of what they are when they are straight(I'm sure that all tankers that have tryed attachement treads can confirm that....) .
When I saw this, I though that I just needed to make theeths on my sprocket .25 inch large to fit in the space of the treads, but when the track becomes straight, the space close and cut the teeth that you try to put in. So, I tryed to do the same thing but with .125inch theeths but it did the same things... The problem is that the total length of the treads and the spaces changes drastically from around your sprocket to straigth line.... I had invested around 200$ of bike chain, bolts, nuts and aluminium treads pad few year ago thinking that I was smarter then other guys... I have waste two month in prototype making with all the manners I could think to make its work that way.... Seriously the tank i'm working on is made with the simple and durable Tyng Tracks System with sprocket drive and the 25ft of chain geting dusty in a corner of my garage. You can try if you want but if you understand what i'm trying to explain, it will be better to think about building your track a different way. Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2014 14:55:24 -0700 From: kunkmies...@gmail.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: Treads I'm guessing attachment chain is designed with ready bolt holes? Sounds like it would be a bit more expensive, people wouldn't use it as much. As for the "skip tooth" IIRC it's best just made--cut out the desired teeth by whatever method you care for. I'm planning on a modified chain track system--two chains on each belt, and wooden treads just screwed on. The big difference was instead of friction drive, I was going to cut sprockets that actually engage the treads. It'll take some math, and without modeling software some trial and error, but it shouldn't be terribly difficult to get the sprocket right. This gives the reliability of a sprocket drive, without the mess of dealing with modifying sprockets or any of that. You could also do something similar with the larger roller chain down the middle, using sprockets on the treads instead of the chain to drive it. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "R/C Tank Combat" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "R/C Tank Combat" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.