The motor wires are your PWM (pulse width modulation) fwd/rev signals so they get connected to the RPWM and LPWM pins on the IBT-2. You also need to provide 5V to the VCC, R_EN, and L_EN pins. Your 3.7V from the toy may suffice (if not, run the toy at 5V). Your larger motor and it's separate power supply get connected to the B+, B-, M+, and M- pins. Tie all the grounds together (the ground on the toy battery and the ground on the big motor battery). When testing, if the motor is jittery or only goes full speed in either direction, wire a small resistor between the two 3.7V PWM signal wires.
These boards are pretty solid and have built in thermal cutouts. Just watch your battery polarity. ST On Monday, April 4, 2016 at 11:31:14 AM UTC-4, neroc1 wrote: > > Steve > I bought one of these drivers (took forever to get here) I dont know how > tough the IBT 2 is especially with an electronics dummy like me operating > it, > Power connections are simple enough B- , B+ ,M- ,M+ but do I simply > connect the wires that would normally go to the small motor (normally 3.7v) > on my toy to the VCC (pin 7) and GND (pin 8) ? > will if matter if I get them the wrong way round ? > I normally destroy items like this within 24 hours but for once Id like > not to. > > appreciate the help > -- -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "R/C Tank Combat" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
