William and all,

While I too have avoided Trojan in recent years due to multiple reports of poor performance on this list, I want to note that in my experience, battery distributor experience will vary according to the individual branch. My local Albuquerque distributor is very good - prompt to respond, remembers my specific preferences (e.g. VRLAs left in their awkward boxes to avoid scuffing cases on our rough roads), gave me 2%10Net30 terms at my request, and even delivers to remote customer sites or meeting points near me.

Batteries are the main component that I buy that's outside of solar distributor familiarity, and I have had to learn over many years how best to work with them. It's a quite different industry.

Allan

On 9/12/2018 12:31 PM, William Miller wrote:
Friends:

I used to buy Trojans. My vendor told me about 3 years ago that Trojan had been acquired and the chemistry in the plates had changed. Later they denied making that statement.

 I had a set of L16s vastly underperform. Trojan suggest a bulk/absorption voltage higher than any other manufacturer, a value hard to achieve and maintain in a small off grid system. I replaced them with US Battery and system performance improved.

Due to the decline in quality I stopped using Trojan. Due to the varying stories, I stopped using Battery Systems. We prefer the MK/Deka brand.


William



On Sep 12, 2018, at 11:33 AM, Ray <r...@solarray.com <mailto:r...@solarray.com>> wrote:

Unfortunately I'm seeing premature failures of the 2 v models even more.  You have paralleled cells in each battery, and it can be difficult to even identify the failures.  I found the infared camera to be invaluable, as you can see the shorted cell clearly in a thermal image.

Ray Walters
Remote Solar
303 505-8760
On 9/12/18 9:53 AM, Drake wrote:
I agree with the comments that followed on this thread, and would also like to add that Trojan L-16 batteries have a high rate of premature failure. Possibly the 2 V cells are better, but the 6 V cells seem very prone to dying early. Trojan batteries were robust in past decades, but seem exceedingly fragile now.

At 08:44 PM 9/11/2018, you wrote:
Hello wrenches,

I inspected a system that another company had installed. It had single string of 12 x Trojan L16RE-2V batteries about 2 years old.  They had experienced a battery melt-down.  It looks as though the meltdown had occurred internally, not from a bad connection.

The system was dual stack Outback VFXR-3524A inverters (to be precise one was a sealed unit).  The set-points were as follows:
Absorb Voltage was 29.8V
Absorb Time was 6.0 hours
Float Voltage was 27.0V
Rebulk Voltage was 27.0V
End Amps was 0A

These settings extended similarly to 2 x FM80 charge controllers.

I was able to jumper the melted battery and get her power in 15 minutes.  Her installer had left her without power for 2 weeks.  My clients will kill me if that happened!

Anyway, I believe these set-points are way out of whack and too aggressive.  The voltage is OK (Trojan recommends ~29.6V for this) but the Absorb time seems way too long, Rebulk is too high and end amps isn't helping.  However, Im not finding a definitive article from Trojan that describes typical Absorb times or even how to adjust towards a good Absorb Time, based on specific gravity measurements or amperage absorption. Â

My diagnosis is that these batteries have been cooked over the past 2 years.  In the electrolyte, there is noticeable "floaties".  The client said that the original installer had accused her of not using distilled water, but I don't believe that would cause her symptoms.  I believe the floaties are plate material.

I'd be interested in wrenches opinions familiar with these batteries if these are appropriate settings for a low energy user.  I will attempt to get through to Trojan as well.

Thanks in advance



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Mac Lewis

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