I had worked in USVI after those two hurricanes and I don't think FEMA is overkill. Their design manual is very thorough. It considers the factors mentioned here. Having done a fair amount of high wind compliance engineering for structures, the FEMA approach is just something you have to organize to install. Yes it will take longer. Chris

On 3/30/2023 6:34 PM, Jason Szumlanski via RE-wrenches wrote:
That would be great if it were possible! I'm not sure how you bottom mount a flush mount array. For a brief period many years ago, I was building solar trailers. I would bottom mount 4-6 panel arrays on rails in my warehouse and then hoist them up and through-bolt the whole array on the top of a trailer. I wasn't about to allow a trailer going 80 mph on the interstate to have panels mounted on the roof with mid-clamps! I had no idea what I was doing, but I had enough sense to know that would have been a bad idea!

I did provide feedback to IronRidge regarding a handful of failures from Hurricane Ian, but most of the issues we saw were most likely related to catastrophic module failure. After all, they are only tested to 5600 Pa uplift for even the best options we have on the market and 2400 Pa for some (which I refuse to use). The mid-clamp T-bolts tearing out of the rail are slightly concerning, but this was pretty rare, and honestly it could be related to installation torque issues, misalignment, or coupled with module failure. There was no widespread or definitive reason for rail failures at the clamp locations.

I would suggest that FEMA's recommendation is overkill and not based on much science, but conclusions based on anecdotal information without statistical data. It should be scrutinized. I think it would be a good idea to consider bottom mount for ground racks and tilt mounts that allow it, but it's just not practical or possible in the vast majority of residential installation cases. On that note, I am not aware of any ground mount failures around here from Hurricane Ian except for submerged arrays that were washed away from storm surge (Yikes!). And the handful of failures that we observed were a drop in the bucket relative to the installed numbers here.

One other thing. Wind direction, upwind obstructions/windbreaks, and luck have a huge amount to do with failures (of both PV and roofs themselves). These storms pick winners and losers. You will have ten houses in a row with pool enclosures mangled, and one in the middle that is unscathed. It's crazy to see. We have lots of gated communities with houses close together. When wind accelerates between houses, it can topple air conditioning units and pool equipment. If you look hard enough at where the wind was coming from and the surrounding area, you can really see how there are so many factors that come into play.

Jason Szumlanski
Principal Solar Designer | Florida Solar Design Group
NABCEP Certified Solar Professional (PVIP)
Florida State Certified Solar Contractor CVC56956


On Thu, Mar 30, 2023 at 7:35 AM Christopher Warfel via RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:

    If you look at FEMA's design guide for solar installations in FL
    and the Caribbean, the recommended module to rail attachment
    method is back to using the attachment holes in the solar module.
    Chris

    On 3/30/2023 5:56 AM, Jason Szumlanski via RE-wrenches wrote:
    This thread has morphed into more than it started as, and for
    good reason. I want to provide some practical/anecdotal
    information, having just gone through arguably the most
    catastrophic wind event in Florida's history (Ian) since the boom
    in solar energy started, and another major wind event (Irrma)
    just 5 years ago.

    First, Aside from the Sunmodo and Quickbolt decking-only
    products, I would check out IronRidge's new entrant into the
    market, the IronRidge HUG. If you can't find info on it, ask your
    distributor or IronRidge sales rep. They have data on truss
    attachments and also missed truss installation procedures. It's a
    unique approach to a dual-purpose product, and they did
    a stellar job on the engineering documentation in my opinion.

    Ok, now let's get to my most important point. Due to Hurricane
    Ian, the number of roofing PV attachments that I have witnessed
    that failed due to fastener pull-out (mine or competitors):

    ZERO

    The only building where we had any mounts fail was on a flat roof
    with pitched panels and Anchor Products mounts on TPO membrane,
    but the mounts themselves did not cause the failure. The roofing
    system itself failed, causing a small section of the PV system to
    fail. But even in that case, the following applies...

    The weak point in a well-designed and installed system is not the
    fastener or flashing system. The module to rail connection is
    where we saw failures. These failures fell into a few categories:

      * Windborne debris struck panel, panel frame failed, panel
        popped out of mid-clamps.
      * Catastrophic wind forces popped panels out of mid-clamps (a
        good percentage of panels found INTACT and still functional
        on the ground!) I suspect the panels became covex in the
        wind, bending frames inward.
      * Windborne debris struck mounting system components, panel
        dislodged, often still on the roof suspended by DC leads.
      * Mid-clamp t-bolt tore out of aluminum rail channel (IronRidge
        UFO, Unirac SM).
      * Mid-clamp sheared off (Quick Mount QRail).
      * Unexplained module detachment failures.

    On 9/28/22, while I stayed up all night bracing myself against my
    front door that I thought was about to fail, I was imagining how
    many roof leaks my clients were about to endure, and wondered
    about the efficacy of my business going forward. Those fears
    never materialized. Aside from a handful of minor panel
    dislodgements, there was no panic following the storm (with
    respect to solar panels). The bigger problem became all of the
    people needing to remove panels for roof replacements, but PV
    panels largely protected roofs in the areas where they were
    installed. Sadly, the rest of the roof often did not fare as well.

    Anyway, back to the decking attachments. I have been skeptical of
    non-flashed products for comp shingle roofs for a long time. My
    thinking is coming around, particularly with the HUG (I trust
    IronRidge's testing regime). And sealants have come so far. This
    method will remain up for debate probably for a long time. Around
    here, I am pretty certain these products will outlast the
    shingles they are placed upon. We only get 15 years out of most
    shingle roofs around here.

    About the pull-out fears... Mine are gone. We have done many flat
    roofs with long fasteners through steel decking or wood decking.
    These screws are usually something like #15 XHD screws in lengths
    from 5 - 12". Not a single failure. We have also used Quick Mount
    QBase Low-Slope bases on pitched tile roofs that were only
    screwed into decking with 4 fasteners each (due to horizontal
    truss transitions) in some cases. Zero failures. But the most
    relevant attachments I can think of that are germane to this
    discussion are the many thousands of S-5 SolarFoot that we have
    screwed into decking on 5V metal roofs around here. These have
    four screws per attachment, and S-5 load tests show something
    like 240 lbs of pull-out strength in OSB (adjusted for safety
    factor). When engineered for our wind loads, we usually get
    anywhere from 36-48 inch attachment spacing, sometimes 24 inches
    in certain roof zones. Again, not a single failure.

    I have more solar installations on Sanibel Island and Fort Myers
    Beach (Hurricane Ian Ground zero) than anyone. Many of those have
    decking-only attachments, S-5 clamps, flat roofs, or other
    attachments other than trusses. I can tell you unequivocally that
    I trust decking-only attachments from a pull-out strength
    standpoint. When properly engineered, with cautious attachment
    spacing, these mounts work in both OSB and plywood. Because of
    the inconsistencies in OSB, we always err on the side of caution,
    if not in the engineering, then in the installation, by
    installing more attachments than prescribed. But the evidence is
    clear. It works.


    Caveat to the above: I have zero experience with snow or seismic,
    and no experience on roofs exceeding 8:12 pitch, and few above 6:12.

    And one more shout-out to S-5 clamps on standing seam roofs.
    Aside from one minor failure of the roof metal itself, not an S-5
    failure, we had zero failures of S-5 clamps attachments to report.

    I hope this anecdotal information helps and sets some fears
    aside. Please reach out to me off-list if you want any specifics
    or details about our experience with catastrophic wind events.

    Sincerely,

    Jason Szumlanski
    Principal Solar Designer | Florida Solar Design Group
    NABCEP Certified Solar Professional (PVIP)
    Florida State Certified Solar Contractor CVC56956


    On Thu, Mar 30, 2023 at 2:47 AM William Miller via RE-wrenches
    <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:

        Friends:

        Thanks for bringing up this scenario.

        I have two problems with using a product such as the
        easy-feet or other deck-fastened brackets, particularly on a
        rigid foam-above-sheeting roof:

        1.I worry about compression of the foam material over time. 
        This could leave a void under the bracket which could lead to
        leaks or wobbly brackets.

        2.I don’t believe in chemical solutions for sloped-roof
        rain-proofing.  By that I mean the use of caulks, gaskets,
        etc. Since roofs were first thatched, the overriding wisdom
        is that gravity is the only way to reliably shed water.
        Overlapping, seamless material is the only method to use. 
        Caulks degrade, roof surfaces become powdery, and the rafter
        is often under an architectural feature or seam in the shingles.

        I researched the PLP EZ foot back when the company was DPW. 
        The fasteners provided were not rated for the application,
        according to the fastener manufacturer. If you can match the
        fasteners to the decking and the forces, then maybe you have
        a start to a mounting solution.

        Whatever product you use, I would install it on a section of
        flashing metal, lapped under the next course up.  The
        flashing gives a flat, seamless surface to caulk or gasket
        to.  The thicker and wider the flashing, the more you
        distribute the downward force

        applied to the bracket by weight and fasteners. Any voids
        under the bracket will have an overlapped flashing above it.

        I hope these musings help you find a solution.

        William Miller

        PS: I have encountered this roof configuration a few times on
        flat, built-up roofing (BUR
        <https://homeinspectioninsider.com/built-up-roofing/>).  We
        have dealt with it by cutting through the foam, installing
        blocking on top of the sheeting and having a roofer feather
        the blocks into the roofing with cant strips
        
<https://www.blueridgefiberboard.com/cant-strip-tapered-edge-smoothes-roof-drainage-slope/>.
 
        A pitched roof is a different situation, however.

        Wm

        Miller Solar

        17395 Oak Road, Atascadero, CA 93422

        805-438-5600

        www.millersolar.com <http://www.millersolar.com/>

        CA Lic. 773985

        *From:*RE-wrenches
        [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] *On Behalf
        Of *August Goers via RE-wrenches
        *Sent:* Wednesday, March 29, 2023 11:47 AM
        *To:* RE-wrenches
        *Cc:* August Goers
        *Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] Attaching Array To or Through Ply

        We've found that in the Bay Area that deck-mount solutions
        typically pencil out structurally (via a structural
        professional engineer) as long as the deck is 1/2" plywood or
        thicker, assuming we have all the info on how the roof is
        constructed. The big assumption is that we can get all that
        roof construction info, which can be difficult for existing
        structures.

        We haven't taken the plunge yet on the flahingless deck mount
        products like the Sunmodo Nanomount or Unirac Flashloc Duo. I
        do think that they offer several significant advantages
        including not needing to find rafters, thus virtually
        eliminating missed pilot holes, and not disturbing the comp
        shingle by eliminating prying up the courses to insert the
        flashing.

        August

        Luminalt

        On Wed, Mar 29, 2023 at 11:34 AM Solar Energy Solutions via
        RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:

            We like Spider Rax… with the flashing!

            *Spider-Rax PV Solar Mounting <https://spiderrax.com/>*

            *spiderrax.com <https://spiderrax.com/>*

                

            *Error! Filename not specified.* <https://spiderrax.com/>

            *Andrew Koyaanisqatsi*

            President

            *Solar Energy Solutions, Inc.
            /The BRIGHT CHOICE/*

            *Since 1987, helping you and your *

            *Portland neighbors move towards an environmentally
            sustainable future.*

            *503-238-4502 <tel:503-238-4502>
            www.SolarEnergyOregon.com
            <http://www.solarenergyoregon.com/>*



            On Mar 29, 2023, at 11:04 AM, Jerry Shafer via
            RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:

                

                Wrenches

                Sounds like a SIP's type product, there are quite a
                few multi hole attachment bases that are designed for
                SIP's. Most will have a larger base, lots of holes
                for screws to attach that do not require rafters
                underneath to attach.

                Fun times

                On Wed, Mar 29, 2023, 8:30 AM frenergy via
                RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:

                    Matt,

                                I guess my questions are 1/2" plywood
                    or 5/8" and how thick is the foam?  Oh and I
                    assume its nominal 2X6 T&G?  Do you know how the
                    plywood is attached?.....through the foam into
                    the T&G?... to stringers, nailers or whatever
                    they're called?

                    Bill

                    Feather River Solar Electric

                    Bill Battagin, Owner

                    4291 Nelson St.(shipping)

                    5575 Genesee Rd. (USPS, UPS)

                    Taylorsville, CA 95983

                    530.284.1925 Office/ 530.258.1641 Cell

                    CA Lic 874049

                    Solar powered since 1982

                    On 3/29/2023 7:53 AM, Dave Tedeyan via
                    RE-wrenches wrote:

                        Hi Matt,

                        I've used these in the past when on a comp
                        roof and there was no good way to get into
                        the rafters (or TJI's in this case)

                        https://sunmodo.com/nanomount/

                        You might want to replace the screws with
                        something shorter and beefier though to get
                        more grip if you are only going into 1/2"
                        plywood.

                        Cheers,

                        Dave

                        On Wed, Mar 29, 2023 at 10:38 AM Matt Sherald
                        via RE-wrenches
                        <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:

                            Hi All,

                            I've run into a roof-mounted job where
                            the roof is built-up with the following:

                            Comp shingle

                            Plywood

                            Foam board

                            T&G (roof deck, but also interior ceiling)

                            The beams that hold the t&g up are
                            wide-spaced and not convenient for
                            fastening the full extent of the array.

                            This being the case, I was considering
                            other fastening options and am writing to
                            pick the collective brain of the Wrenches
                            to see how others have addressed similar
                            situations.

                            One thought I had was to use the PLP Easy
                            Mounting Foot and I'd be glad for any
                            opinions on that or another solution.

                            -Matt


--
                            Matt Sherald

                            PIMBY Energy, LLC

                            304-704-5943



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