Cort, good deal. Just remember that shrink-wrap was designed assuming it would never see sunlight. It may, or may not stand up to UV any better that Scotch 33.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Cort Buffington" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 7:20 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dual-Band Repeater Antenna >A friend and I used direct-burial heat shrink tubing with some kind of > sealing goo in it on a multi-piece antenna and did a PVC holder for > the top end. We were pretty happy with it, but I've heard so much > about how great the folded dipole antennas are that I was unsure if I > was really missing out with poor performance. I've since moved from > that town, but understand the antenna was change b/c a commercial > antenna of some sort was available. I never found out if the Comet > "survived" or if it was torn down and inspected. > > I was honestly just considering a Diamond X50NA or a Hustler G6-270 so > I wouldn't have to worry about joints or extra long flapping in the > wind. There's a DB420 sticking out of the top of the tower -- I have > the position directly below it, so I can side-mount and do whatever I > want - and will be less likely to take a direct lightning strike. It > is a tower on a farm for a farm repeater, and after running our two > frequencies, I see we have little intermod issues to worry about. I > also have a DB-420 I could use... Oh, decisions :) > > Thanks as usual for the input guys, it is invaluable to me. > > 73 DE N0MJS > > P.S. Ken, using dual-band and remote base is directly related to my > post on the RC-210 list regarding the TM-271A a couple of days ago. > > On Mar 13, 2008, at 8:33 PM, Ken Arck wrote: > >> At 06:28 PM 3/13/2008, Paul Plack wrote: >> >>> Cort, >>> >>> >>> (1) Can be addressed by using antennas with one-piece radomes. In >>> theory, the right preparation to seal junctions might also work. In >>> long-term installations, the gel-coat on the radomes will break >>> down under UV radiation from the sun, followed by the fiberglass, >>> which may allow water migration through the radome. >> >> >> <-----I've always done this (wrap the joints first with the sealing >> goop, then electrical tape over that and finally a tie wrap at the >> outer end of the tape to prevent it from unravelling with time) and >> have never had water penetration. Not once. >> >>> >>> (2) Broken internal connections can develop quickly if a fiberglass >>> radome antenna is top-mounted on a tower. If it's side-mounted, >>> with a brace for the top to stop waving in the wind, they can last >>> much longer. >> >> <---Yep, Support the top with something non-conductive to keep the >> antenna from swingin' in the breeze goes a long way at increasing >> longevity (my oldest Diamond still in repeater service is almost 10 >> years old). >> >> >> Ken >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> President and CTO - Arcom Communications >> Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. >> http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ >> Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and >> we offer complete repeater packages! >> AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 >> http://www.irlp.net >> "We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!" >> >> > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
