Make sure to offset your joints by 1 - 2 inches so that each joiner has solid rail opposite it, put wood ties underneath and both sides of the joints, spike the rail down at every tie; both to help hold the gauge, and for durability. Some people recommend also gluing the rail to the wood ties. I've not done this.
I quit using flex track on SMODules because it is so easy to bump the rails, break the plastic tie heads, lose the gauge. It is possible to drill the plastic and spike the rail to the plastic ties, but I found it simpler just to handlay the rails; the small distance of rail on modules makes that practical. I have NOT tried using tie plates with my spiked rail. Ted Larson --- In [email protected], "Peter Gagnon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > The SDS Gaugers are putting together some S MOD modules, and have > selected SHS flex track (code 125/131) as our standard. In order to get > smooth curves without "boxed" joints, I'm attempting to solder a couple > of sections of SHS flex track together, but am not getting good > results. Basically, the joint is not whetting and the solder is not > flowing. My assumption is that I'm not getting enough heat on the > joint - I'm using a 40watt iron and lead free electrical solder. > > If any of you folks have experience in this area, Id appreciate any > sugggestions as to technique and tools that will help me get good > dependable solder joints. > > Thanks... > > Peter Gagnon > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
