Another method to get unkinked curved rail through soldered joints is 
to solder the joints with rail joiners in place before tacking down 
the track.  

Ben Trousdale

--- In [email protected], "mhrreast" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Make sure to offset your joints by 1 - 2 inches so that each joiner 
> has solid rail opposite it, put wood ties underneath and both sides 
> of the joints, spike the rail down at every tie; both to help hold 
> the gauge, and for durability.  Some people recommend also gluing 
the 
> rail to the wood ties.  I've not done this.   
> 
> I quit using flex track on SMODules because it is so easy to bump 
the 
> rails, break the plastic tie heads, lose the gauge.  It is possible 
> to drill the plastic and spike the rail to the plastic ties, but I 
> found it simpler just to handlay the rails; the small distance of 
> rail on modules makes that practical.  I have NOT tried using tie 
> plates with my spiked rail.
> 
> Ted Larson   
> 
> 
> --- In [email protected], "Peter Gagnon" <p.gagnon@> wrote:
> >
> > The SDS Gaugers are putting together some S MOD modules, and have 
> > selected SHS flex track (code 125/131) as our standard. In order 
to 
> get 
> > smooth curves without "boxed" joints, I'm attempting to solder a 
> couple 
> > of sections of SHS flex track together, but am not getting good 
> > results. Basically, the joint is not whetting and the solder is 
not 
> > flowing. My assumption is that I'm not getting enough heat on the 
> > joint - I'm using a 40watt iron and lead free electrical solder. 
> > 
> > If any of you folks have experience in this area, Id appreciate 
any 
> > sugggestions as to technique and tools that will help me get good 
> > dependable solder joints. 
> > 
> > Thanks...
> > 
> > Peter Gagnon
> >
>



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