My problem with all of this (as he puts on his grumpy old man attitude) is that we're paying good money for couplers that really don't work all that well. I had this problem back in my AF daze too--backing into a siding to pick up my PRR all plastic, but empty gondola normally resulted in derailing it. Put a load in it--success!

If I had the $$, I would put out a coupler similar to the #5, with the extended air hose, slightly larger knuckle (including the "gathering range"), probably go to the whisker centering spring, and improve the over all appearance by using a better rust color, plus improved prototype shape. Also I would prefer to see rust colored coupler but a lighter black (weathered black) coupler box--the coupler box is normally painted to match the underbody while the couplers are forbidden from being painted--who said the two parts have to match while the prototype doesn't and can't!

For the life of me, I can't figure out why somebody hasn't designed such an animal. Face it every time one of us removes those claw couplers, they have to be replaced with "something" else--that's a demand waiting for a business!

We shouldn't have to use little pieces of "whatever" in the coupler, we shouldn't have to substitute different springs, we shouldn't have to try refasten the rotating air hose. We've got better things to do!

Face it the #5 is a fairly simple design, easy to assemble, reasonably foolproof to operate--to the point where when we have ten guys (of varying skill) at an ops session, we probably have 95+% success rate in coupling/uncoupling.

Bob Werre
PhotoTraxx


On 5/18/12 2:00 PM, [email protected] wrote:

actually, according to the wonderful folks at kd, if you put a piece of 3/64" rod (type doesn't matter, but they recommended styrene or abs) they should take care of the slack, you just

have to figure out the correct length (for slack purposes) they also recommend acc'ing the rod to the back of the coupler to secure it, personally i like the 1295'2, i just wish the prc would quit putting them together upside down
mel perry

On May 18, 2012, at 10:57 AM, ardeng wrote:

Don - What do you mean - in addition to the std. spring or instead? Karnes does it instead. That does not reduce the slack length. It just stops the car from bobbing while the train is running.

What would help in the 802 is a piece of steel rod inside the std. spring. It needs to be just slightly shorter than the slot length. Then you still get centering but less slack - although still too much in my opinion. AG

>
> Dear Arden,
> If you do not need the magnetic uncoupling, you can drop a small truck spring into the coupler box and that will minimize the slack action.
> Don
>
> On May 15, 2012, at 3:24 AM, ardeng wrote:
>
> > Dave- The 1295 has the same car separation as the 802. I wish it were less, i.e. closer to prototype. Functionally they are fine. I prefer their lack of slack slop. The 802's are ridiculous in that regard. You get enough slack just with the knuckle's loose spacing.
>




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