Bill
Sounds like we are actually doing the same thing.
 (So it's has to be right!:)
Cheryl

> From: "Bill Wolfe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: "Screenprinter's Mailing List" <[email protected]>
> Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2007 12:24:18 -0600
> To: "Screenprinter's Mailing List" <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: [SE-List] Does anyone use this list anymore?
> 
> I always pull the shirt all the way on the board, then grab the shoulders
> and pull back to my predetermined mark.
> With your shirt on the pallet, put your thumbs on the edges of the shirt
> above the sleeves.  Take your middle finger and feel the sleeve seam with
> each hand.  Does it appear to be 1" on one side and 3" on the other?  If so,
> your shirt is on crooked.  You want both sides to appear to measure the
> same.
> I don't like to put the shirt all the way on to the shoulders and leave it
> there....it just seems to stretch the shirt.  I put it on all the way, and
> then pull back to my mark for that particular size.
> Once you have all your marks in place, it's really easy to get going.
> Just put on a shirt, align to your mark and print.  Next size, just adjust
> to the next mark or halfway between.  Your looking at the shirt on board
> anyway, so it's no problem to just look, adjust, and print.
> 
> Bill
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Christine Mantz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Screenprinter's Mailing List" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 12:10 PM
> Subject: Re: [SE-List] Does anyone use this list anymore?
> 
> 
>> Instead of adjusting the shirt for each size, what about moving the platen
>> in and out for different sizes.  Does anyone have marks on the arms of the
>> press that they use to adjust the platen to?  Therefore, you would always
>> pull the shirt all the way on the platen and line up the shoulder seams
>> (so
>> you know the shirt is square on the platen).  This is one idea that we
>> have
>> come up with but really haven't put it to use yet to see if it is
>> practical
>> or not.
>> 
>> It just seems to me that when you start pulling the shirt to meet a mark
>> that is when the shirt gets off square.
>> 
>> Also, what tolerance do you all have for determining if a shirt is
>> acceptable?  I often wonder if I am just too picky.  Also, sometimes the
>> design can look perfectly square on the shirt, but as soon as it is
>> washed,
>> the design is not crooked.
>> 
>> TIA
>> Christine Mantz
>> Identity Elements
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "screen Print Specialities" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: "Screenprinter's Mailing List" <[email protected]>
>> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 12:02 PM
>> Subject: Re: [SE-List] Does anyone use this list anymore?
>> 
>> 
>>> 1 more thing. We use the same method as Bill
>>>> For example, for smalls put shirt all the way on the pallet until
>>>>>> the collar edge stops at the 4" mark.  Print all smalls on this mark.
>>> but keep in mind that you need to either move the board in or out as you
>>> change sizes or adjust where you are placing the shirt on the board as
>>> Bill
>>> mentioned when he stated you may want to pull the XL shirt up.  A small
>>> shirt will not slide as far onto the pallet as an XL so you have to make
>>> up
>>> for that by adjusting the placement of either the shirt or the board so
>>> that
>>> your print will stay the correct distance down from the bottom of the
>>> collar
>>> seam on all of the sizes.
>>> Cheryl
>>> 
>>>> From: screen Print Specialities <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>> Reply-To: "Screenprinter's Mailing List"
>>>> <[email protected]>
>>>> Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 11:47:01 -0600
>>>> To: "Screenprinter's Mailing List" <[email protected]>
>>>> Subject: Re: [SE-List] Does anyone use this list anymore?
>>>> 
>>>> Christine,
>>>> I didn't find those e-mails I was looking for but Bill just did a great
>>>> job
>>>> of helping you out. To place your shirt on the pallet we grasp the shirt
>>>> at
>>>> the bottom hem on each side, scrunch it up in your hands a couple of
>>>> inches
>>>> (making the  shirt shorter) then slide each hand along the outer edges
>>>> of
>>>> the pallet as you slide the shirt on. We slide the shirt all the way on
>>>> until the shoulders hit the top edge of the pallet to help square the
>>>> shirt
>>>> up, then if necessary, grasp at each shoulder and gently pull it back
>>>> towards you a little to line up on your mark. Then use both hands to
>>>> grasp
>>>> each side of the shirt directly under each armpit and gently put
>>>> downward
>>>> tension on it pulling the shirt tight. Does it feel like one hand is
>>>> higher
>>>> than the other? (Is one hand 2" below the pallet and the other 3"
>>>> below?)
>>>> This helps to check that you are centered. Then a quick swipe of the
>>>> hand
>>>> across the shirt to flatten. This only takes a couple of seconds to do
>>>> after
>>>> you get used to it. REMEMBER.. the center crease is only a suggestion
>>>> and
>>>> can be as far off as the necklines and pockets.
>>>> 
>>>> As far as where to actually place the print on the shirts it would be
>>>> the
>>>> same as you have been using for embroidery.
>>>> 
>>>> Cheryl Teems
>>>> Screen Print Specialties
>>>> 
>>>>> From: "Bill Wolfe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>>> Reply-To: "Screenprinter's Mailing List"
>>>>> <[email protected]>
>>>>> Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2007 10:50:45 -0600
>>>>> To: "Screenprinter's Mailing List" <[email protected]>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [SE-List] Does anyone use this list anymore?
>>>>> 
>>>>> This is my system for design placement:
>>>>> When burning screens, I put a piece of "shoe molding" / ("1/4 round
>>>>> molding") on my exposure unit (and I leave it there).  It is heavly
>>>>> taped
>>>>> down (ends only) on the glass and has center line on it so I know
>>>>> exactly
>>>>> where the center is.  When I place my positives on the glass, I measure
>>>>> up
>>>>> about 1" from the molding and tape my film positives in 3
>>>>> places.....top,
>>>>> left, and right sides to the glass.  I use the registration marks to
>>>>> align
>>>>> with the center mark on my piece of moulding. Then I put the screen on
>>>>> and
>>>>> butt it against the moulding,centered on the moulding.  For the next
>>>>> film
>>>>> positive, only remove one side of tape on positive that is already
>>>>> taped
>>>>> down, slide next positive underneath the first and line up the
>>>>> registration
>>>>> marks.  Tape down this film on three sides maintaining alignment with
>>>>> first
>>>>> positive and then remove the orignal positive, place screen on exposue
>>>>> unit
>>>>> and burn screen.  Repeat process for all screens.
>>>>> 
>>>>> On printing press:
>>>>> Take a T-square and a sharpie marker and draw a line length wise down
>>>>> the
>>>>> pallet, right down the center.  Then draw a few lines across
>>>>> (horizontal)
>>>>> the pallet about an inch apart.
>>>>> Then from the neck of the pallet, put four marks on the centerline. One
>>>>> at
>>>>> the 1" mark, 2" mark, 3" mark, and 4" mark.  This is for when the shirt
>>>>> is
>>>>> on the pallet, put shirt all the way on until the collar stops at one
>>>>> of
>>>>> the
>>>>> marks.  For example, for smalls put shirt all the way on the pallet
>>>>> until
>>>>> the collar edge stops at the 4" mark.  Print all smalls on this mark.
>>>>> For
>>>>> the bigger sizes, you may want to use the 1" mark so the design will be
>>>>> a
>>>>> little farther down the shirt and not be stuck up close to the collar.
>>>>> Print
>>>>> all of the same sizes on the same mark. Clear as mud?
>>>>> The center mark on pallet:
>>>>> Tape one of your positives down on a pallet and use the registration
>>>>> marks
>>>>> to place directly on your centerline.  Mount the screens and align all
>>>>> screens to this film.  Remove film.
>>>>> Now, align the center crease in the shirt with the center mark on the
>>>>> pallet.
>>>>> Horizontal lines:
>>>>> The horizontal marks are to make the design straight on the shirt.
>>>>> Before
>>>>> you ink your screens, pull the screen down to the pallet and look
>>>>> through
>>>>> your design.  Note where the design lands on your horizontal marks.
>>>>> Twist
>>>>> the pallet to make it look straight.  Now, rotate to the next pallet
>>>>> and
>>>>> put
>>>>> same screen down on that pallet and adjust (twist) the pallet to make
>>>>> sure
>>>>> the design is not crooked on that pallet.  Repeat for all pallets.
>>>>> Follow this procedure and you'll have straight designs at the same
>>>>> position
>>>>> for all shirts.
>>>>> I hope you could understand what I was trying to describe.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Bill
>>>>> __________________________________
>>>>> Bill Wolfe
>>>>> Yoteez Screenprinting
>>>>> 141 CR 420
>>>>> Calhoun City, MS 38916
>>>>> 662-983-8071 business
>>>>> 662-796-3781 fax
>>>>> 662-628-8767 home
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>> From: "Christine Mantz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>>> To: "Screenprinter's Mailing List" <[email protected]>
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 9:30 AM
>>>>> Subject: Re: [SE-List] Does anyone use this list anymore?
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>>> I have been wondering the same thing.  Where is everyone?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I would like to start a discussion.  We have been screen printing for
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> little over a year.  And who ever said that "screen printing is not
>>>>>> rocket
>>>>>> science" must have been kidding.  For some reason, screen printing
>>>>>> seems
>>>>>> about as close to rocket science as you can get as far as we are
>>>>>> concerned.
>>>>>> It is a never ending, learning process.  Just when you think you got
>>>>>> it,
>>>>>> you
>>>>>> realize you really don't.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> As simple as it may be, I would like to discuss the best way to ensure
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> artwork is positioned on the shirt in the correct spot consistently?
>>>>>> We
>>>>>> have a "chart" that we use but it seems like we are having to
>>>>>> "reinvent
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> wheel" everytime we print a new job.  Sometimes we print too low,
>>>>>> sometimes
>>>>>> too high.  Is there a secret to ensure proper placement on the
>>>>>> shirt...especially when you have an order of a variety of different
>>>>>> size
>>>>>> shirts?  Do you do anything specific when placing the image on the
>>>>>> screen
>>>>>> before exposure?  What about the press?  Have you found a system for
>>>>>> making
>>>>>> changes to the press as far as platen or screen adjustments?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Along the same lines...what is the secret to getting a shirt square on
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> platen so the design is not crooked?  I have found the printers marks
>>>>>> on
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> shirts to be unreliable.  Do you have a favorite brand of shirt that
>>>>>> you
>>>>>> have found to be most consistent?  We typically use Gildan Ultra
>>>>>> Cotton,
>>>>>> but
>>>>>> I have found the collar placement on these shirts to be inconsistent
>>>>>> which
>>>>>> doesn't help when you are trying to get a shirt centered on the
>>>>>> platen.
>>>>>> I
>>>>>> was wondering what shirts you all prefer and why?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Hope this spurs a discussion and activity on this list.  I have been
>>>>>> meaning
>>>>>> to ask these questions for sometime.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>> Chris Mantz
>>>>>> Identity Elements
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>> From: "Scott Weaver" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>>>> To: "'Screenprinter's Mailing List'"
>>>>>> <[email protected]>
>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 8:54 AM
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [SE-List] Does anyone use this list anymore?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Thanks John,
>>>>>>> The list is dead compared to what it used to be.  The difference from
>>>>>>> before to now is unbelievable.  Apparently everyone (but me)now knows
>>>>>>> everything!
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> Screenprinters mailing list
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>>>>> 
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>>>> 
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