Stus-List Re: Mast head antenna cable

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

JP:  Don't you need at least one disconnect between the masthead and the VHF?   
Something has to give when you pull the mast
I used LMR400 coax cable when I replaced mine and there is a connection under 
the saloon sole
Spencer Johnson84 LF38  "Alegria" # 165Racine, WI


-Original Message-
From: J.P. via CnC-List 
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: ja...@jpiworldwide.com
Sent: Mon, Apr 25, 2022 2:51 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Mast head antenna cable

Charlie
As someone that works with RF ALL DAY every day, my suggestion is to replace 
the cable. Signal loss from splices and connectors, especially in the 
potentially highly oxidizing / corrosive marine environments will or could 
eventually- and most likely – render the radio useless. Always try to make 
antenna to transmitter a single continuous run. Also, if you are not a “pro” at 
crimping cables putting your own ends on without proper tools and technique is 
not a good idea either.  Factory cables the appropriate length are better than 
most handmade ones… splicing in the middle is a bad idea.   As to cable - As a 
rule of thumb, the greater diameter the cable, the less the signal loss. And 
yes signal loss matters even in low power VHF applications.  I prefer “quad” 
cables… that’s quad shielded.   JPS/V AletheaC 43-1  

Stus-List Re: Rudder issues

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

Hi Brian...I replaced my rudder in 2018 after years of bringing it home over 
the winter to let it drain out of the rudder-shaft connection.  I gave up and 
had Competition Composites (cci.one) in Ontario repair it.   Their computer 
scanned the rudder, removed the fiberglass and foam confirming that the SS post 
was in good shape (because of the black/brown tarry ooze that came out of the 
rudder I was relieved), then they scanned the shaft.  After cleaning it all up 
they used a CNC milling machine to cut two halves of hard Divinycell foam - 
inside and outside - then packed with epoxy.  The outside was covered in 2 
layers of fiberglass mat, vacuum bagged, then faired and primed.  Some pics:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bz49si3Z0GdDd2sxVXNHV1Iwc0E?resourcekey=0-mxt2XK3szmOGKjPR91NARA=sharing
They have a video of the process on the website.  Cost was about 3k but the 
exchange rate US to CDN was quite favorable.  Shipping was not cheep...a crate 
cost about $100 and was very well made.  Rudder weight dropped in halffrom 
325 to 150 lbs...much easier to reinstall!
Brianif your boat is outside in the frozen tundra you can be sure it won't 
just get better.  I had the yard use G-Flex on the shaft to rudder 
joint...water still got in.  So, not a matter of IF but WHEN.  For me...I was 
done removing the rudder each fall and taking it home so it would not freeze.  
The new rudder is solid peace of mind.  Good Luck!!
Spencer Johnson84 LF38 "Alegria"  #165Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C 121 engine controls, freeing sheaves

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

You are absolutely correct Marek.but BoatZinc's only had zinc and aluminum 
for the end of the prop.  I went with what they recommended...
--==>Spencer~~~Spencer,

For fresh water you want magnesium (aluminium is for brackish water)

Marek___

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Stus-List C 121 engine controls, freeing sheaves

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

BobI replaced my pedestal so I could mount a 9" Raymarine touchscreen 
MFD...and updated electronics at the same time.  It came with a single lever 
shifter/throttleworks great...I can easily disengage the shifter to just 
use the throttle for starting and revving.  
https://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/product/EDS-476B-215T.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwoub3BRC6ARIsABGhnya9FZ6dDj6Lq40BKQ69sk9KzI7L3zQKcfxjdPcO32WQMMXBftDPwsMaArS1EALw_wcB
Somebody also inquired about props...Alegria came with a 16" SS Autostream 
feathering propmaybe from AustraliaIt has probably been on the boat for 
over 25 yearsnever any wear found and only O ring replacements every year 
or two, maybe a zinc (well, for fresh water it's aluminum) and grease it via a 
zerk fitting every fall.  looks new.  I had it off once to replace the shaft 
bearingso I was able to scope out the innards...No wear found.  
https://www.seahawk.com.au/

Good Luck!
Spencer Johnson84 LF 38 "Alegria"On the hard in Waukegan, IL with a fuel tank 
leak...   :-(___

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Stus-List Cabin Sole Refinishing

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

Hi Russ! Good idea...I was just following the included instructions by mixing 
with the polyurethane first...this kinda worked but didn't disperse the walnut 
shells evenly.I created a test board, put a few coats of Minwax Satin 
Polyurethane on it, then with a wet coat and a re-purposed jam jar with a nail 
hole in the top (not too big) I sprinkled as evenly as possible, let it dry 
(spreading a wet coat over the not-so-wet coat kinda messed up the bottom 
coat). Letting it dry completely and adding another coat seemed to work as I 
liked.Taping the Holly stripes seemed to cause more surface 
disruption...pulling the tape up right after laying down a coat left tape 
lines/ridges that are a bit annoying.=C2=A0 I will be testing without taping 
and see how annoying the walnut shells are on the holly..UPDATE: Using an old 
jam jar with one small nail hole init for the walnut shells I was able to 
control the sprinkle onto the wet polyurethane evenly. The proof will be when I 
replace the cabin sole and lay down the rugs to see how easily they move 
around.IF...any lister would like a supply of crushed walnut shells just let me 
know where to send it...I have about 2/3rds of an 18 oz jam jar that I will 
never use.  I would suspect that 2-3 tablespoons more than cover a typical 
cabin sole...
Spencer Johnson84 LF 38 "Alegria" #165Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL___

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Re: Stus-List Aqua signal 25 direct LED replacement?

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

Hi Dave!  I replaced all of my Nav lights because the lens was almost 
completely clouded and the lamp clips kept on corroding.  I went with Hella 
NavLED Pro replacement fixtures.  They were slightly larger than the old 
fixtures.  I probably could have just attached them as is, but, I had some 18 
ga SS cut to fit the back of each fixture.  The light is completely sealed, so, 
no spiders or water will enter.  The lenz is crystal clear after 5 years and 
they are quite bright...I think that they are certified for 3 mn viewing 
distance.  Installation of all 3 was pretty straightforward.  I did drill and 
tap new mounting screw holes for them.  I am VERY pleased with them.


Spencer Johnson
'84 LF38 "Alegria" #165
Winters in Waukegan, IL
Summers in Racine, WI

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 134, Issue 19

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

I also went with the Hella NavaLED Pro navigation lights.  My old fixtures had 
poor lamp contacts and the lenzes were crazed.  The bow lights were mounted on 
the pulpit.  I had a local steel shop make some 16 ga stainless backing plates 
as these were just a tad larger than the originals.  They are quite bright.  I 
like the fact that they are completely sealed...no spiders or water intrusion.  
Installation was pretty easy.


Spencer Johnson
'84 LF38 "Alegria" 165
Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL

Re:  LED Nav Lights




-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-request 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Mon, Mar 6, 2017 11:01 am
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 134, Issue 19

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  LED Nav Lights (Matthew L. Wolford)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2017 12:29:06 -0500
From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED Nav Lights
Message-ID: <34E8F49784BA477A8EB88E7CE579E06A@InternetPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

I have replaced with Hella LEDs (anchor/steaming/deck) and am happy with the 
results.

-Original Message- 
From: Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2017 7:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bradley Lumgair
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED Nav Lights

I would like to follow up on this thread with Fred, and anyone else who has 
changed out the nav lights for LED, how did the Marinebeam masthead steaming 
light work out? I've got my mast down and was searching for both led 
replacement bulbs for the Aquasignal 25 fixture. Cost wise I may as well 
replace the whole thing but the fixture is in good shape.
I bought replacement red green and white LED fixtures from Holland Marine 
last winter, perfect match to the Aquasignal 25.
Thanks
Brad
Pulse
1985 C$C 33 MkII
Lake Huron

Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
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End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 134, Issue 19
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Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

SteveI have a LF 38 and just installed a larger transducer (Raymarine 
B60...Fishfinder - I wanted to see the bottom contours...but am willing to take 
up fishing!  Plugged directly into my A97 MFD...) just forward of the keel.  I 
found the hull solid at that pointI suspect that below the water line it 
may be solid...maybe.  The gotcha I did find was that the thickness of the hull 
was greated towards the centerlinethan on the waterline side.  The 
transducer fit flush on the outside, but, the gaskets on the inside did not fit 
flush all the way around.  If/when I feel like loosening the but on the 
transducer I will add some spacers along the waterline side the nut will spin 
on and more equally hold the outside  edge of the transducer flush to the hull. 
 Not this year.


Spencer Johnson
1984 LF38 "Alegria" #165
Wuakegan, IL,/ Racine, WI
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Stus-List Rudder Replacement

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

Hi Patrick.I had some leakage from the rudder thru a crack in the forward 
edge.  I had the yard clean it up and epoxy some cloth over it and GFlex around 
the tube entry.
Still getting some leakage into the rudder.  SO, my solution is to remove the 
rudder every year and keep it in my garage so it won't freeze...ever.  I lean 
it up on an angle and it drips a bit...maybe a half cut or sobut I feel 
better.
Getting pretty good at removing and reinstalling it...a PITA but do-able with 
my wife and I...except for putting it back in.  I do tie a rope sling around 
the rudder with a loop around the bottom to be able to firmly hold onto the 
rudder...it is not too easy to hold onto by itself.  Luckily sailors are a 
helpful bunch and a couple of them are usually around to assist for 10 minutes 
or so to align the quadrant and get the top nut started.  Look out for the 
'key' in the rudder shaft!  Mine drops out.  ALSO, I found a round red 
scotchbright type drill attachment that I use with 2 18" extensions to clean 
out the shaft tube wetted down with kerosene to loosen any contaminents.  For 
grease I just use a waterproof bearing greasequite a bit of it...as it gets 
changed annually I am not too picky. No more worries about a $5k bill!
The top nutI use a pipe wrench..it will not spin off no matter how much 
lube I use.  So, I wrap it in Gorilla Tape for protection from the pipe 
wrench...that seems to work pretty well.  I tried using some hose around the 
top nut by it just slipped.  I didn't want to chance creating a problem with 
the set screws by using them as grips for the pipe wrench.
$0.02
Spencer Johnson
'84 LF38 #165 "Alegria"
Waukegan, IL/Racine, WI
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Stus-List Doyle StackPack or Mack ?

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

TimI have a Doyle StackPack complements of very wise prior owners.  It is 
one of the best things about my sailseasy to drop into, a bit of a pain to 
raise as all sails are with lazy jacks.  The absolute best thing about the 
StackPack is how well it treats the sails...no sail ties to compress or wrinkle 
the sails...never a crease.  The top edge of the StackPack is the dual 
fiberglass rods that keep it's nice shape.  Mine is probably 15 years old and 
maybe getting kinda tired.  I just had the zippers replaced.  The sail is in 
pretty good shape for it's age...it is in for inspection and cleaning now.


I will be getting another StackPack when the time comes.  I have seen other 
versions and none have been as well engineered as Doyle.


Spencer Johnson
1984 C LF 38 # 165 "Alegria"
Racine, WI, and Mount Prospect, IL>> 







>> I?m in need of replacing my mainsail Doyle stack pack as the canvas is 
>> rotten (came with the boat and enjoy the simplicity). A winter project. I 
>> was just curious if others may have such a system, and 
>> advice/recommendations for brand of replacement. I tried to search the 
>> archives and unable to find a result. I sail inland on Lake Champlain.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks much for your time and thoughts.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Tim W.
>> 
>> s/v Sly Fox
>> 
>> 1976 29? MK1
> __
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Stus-List Upgrades!

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

Landfall 38 update...bigtime!


Alegria came to me (formerly Lanakai, Fugawi out of Grand Traverse Bay, MI) in 
2006 with older but working systems...SH VHF, ST4000 Auto, Furuno 16xx Radar, 
Garmin GPS, Alpine Stereo.  It hadn't been used in a couple of years and had 
been kept inside.  The Prior Owners had done a quality job in taking care of 
her.  I had previously upgraded the Autopilot to the XPS-5 SmartPilot and was 
using a Garmin 478 for GPS and Charts.


Upgrades this year:
Replaced wet core under Pedestal and Rudder post.
Replaced Pedestal with Edson Vision Series...so I could have...
Raymarine a97 9 display w/remote at the helm and
Standard Horizion Matrix 2200 VHF with AIS and Remote MIC
Raymarine Color Hi Def Radar
Raymarine Fishfinder transducer (B60) in bow
Raymarine Masthead instruments
and Fusion AV750 stereo with Sirius/XM


This was a BIG project for me...and I could not have completed it without Fred 
Street's very capable assistance.  When I was overwhelmed, he just took over.  
He plugged it in and everything worked!  It was magicical.  I highly recommend 
his services.


Pics available upon request.  Just in case anybody is interested...I do have a 
bunch of leftover parts that I would be very pleased to part with for a modest 
contribution to offset this year's expenses.  Feel free to contact me off line 
if you are interested...


I appreciate this list lotsI may not contribute much but read it daily.  
Thanks again to Stu who deserves all of our support!
Now I just want to sail her.


Spencer Johnson
1984 Landfall 38 # 165 ALEGRIA
Summers in Racine, WI
Home in Mount Prospect, IL
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Stus-List Furuno Radar Replacement

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

I also am in the midst of an equipment upgrade...and would be very pleased to 
offer my Furuno Radar for sale.  I am keeping my Edson 2 3/8 pole, but, do 
have the pole topper and instrument 'arm' that goes with it.  This stuff ain't 
cheep from Edson.  If I can find a home and offset some of my huge expenses...I 
would be pleased.  I have some other pieces available...like an old 
pedestal...Datamarine Wind Speed/Direction/masthead


Spencer Johnson
1984 LF38 Alegria #165
Mount Prospect, IL
Summers in Racine, WI
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Stus-List Wheelpilot ST-4000 bracket...

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

MANY moons ago...some lister was inquiring about the availability of a ST4000 
head mount bracket.  I just removed one from my nav station and would be happy 
to send it to a lister that has a need.


This is just the bracket that has a 'v'  mounting wedgie to hold the head unit 
when not in useor the same bracket is used in the cockpit.


I upgraded to the Raymarine SPS-5 Wheelpilot (with a 17,000lbs+ boat) and have 
been quite pleased.


Please contact me for pics and mailing instructions.


BIGGIE upgrade this year...pedestal and all new Raymarine equipment...$$$


Spencer Johnson
1984 CC LF 38 Alegria  # 165
Mount Prospect, IL
(Summer - Reefpoint Marina, Racine, WI)




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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

Hi DavidI have a 1984 LF38 that should be close to yours...we are now 
dropping the rudder every winter to prevent freezup.  My wite and I can get it 
down ok, but it takes a bit of help from other sailors to get it back in.  I 
have 2 set screws in the cap on the rudder shaft that need to be loosened.  I 
end up using a pipe wrench to unscrew/screw the cap.  To minimize damage to the 
cap nut I wrap it with Gorilla Tape.  I have heard of exhaust hose being 
used...if you can get a good grip.  Tried the flexible wrenches like for an oil 
filterno dice...takes much more force.  I wish there was a way to make it 
easier...10 minutes with a big pipe wrench and she is off!   I drop it onto a 
sawhorse with blocks.  I also make a bit of a netting with rope around the 
bottom of the rudder and tied over the top...kinda like wrapping a package with 
ribbon...but it makes it much easier to grab the rudder as we ease it down.  
Once down, and wangeled onto a two wheeler, I can put the shaft on my shoulder 
and move it around to the car pretty easily.  One more thought.I clean the 
shaft with a drill, 2-3 18 extensions, and a fine scotchbrite like (red) 
buffing wheel soaked in kerosene to get all of the old lube out.
Hope that helpsGood Luck!
Spencer Johnson
1984 LF38 #165 Alegria
Racine, WI in the summer
Waukegan, IL in the Winter

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Stus-List CC 37+ engine size

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

I am feeling really under powered with a Westerbeke 27 in my LF38but pretty 
economical.  Still have trouble punching thru waves, but can motor sail at over 
8 knots...I can motor over 7 knots but the stern digs in and I get a black 
'moustache' on my stern from unburnt fuel...or so I've been told.  I normally 
get no smoking of the exhaust at any time. Maybe 2800 hours on the 
enginestarts fine all the time!





Spencer Johnson
1984 CC LF 38 Alegria #165
~~~_/) * 
Mount Prospect, IL



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Stus-List Red spots under transmission...Oh My!

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

It is a Hurth V Drivewith not quite 3,000 hours on it.  That's an average 
of 100 hours per year
I have had Alegria since 2006 (the engine had about 2,100 hours on it when 
purchased)  and this is the first time I have ever seen any trans fluid.  It 
appears to be a spray perpendicular to the drive shaft.  Not to much, but, a 
concern.  It may only happen when the engine is runningI was running at 
2800 RPM for 24 hours at one point.  The Westerbeke's top RPM is 3300...which I 
can achieve, but, the stern really digs in and leaves a moustache on the 
gelcoat.


Bob suggested new shaft seals.  I will get my mirror out and see if I can 
locate the source.  He also suggested a Hurth rebuild every 1,500 hours.  If so 
I am wy overdue...
Martin suggested oil cooler lines.I have none that I know of...just the 
Hurth bolted onto the engine.  No tubes.


So, maybe it is time for a rebuild and get the seals replaced.  I don't know of 
many other CC's with Westebeke 27 enginesso far it has been quiet,smooth, 
and reliable...just a bit of exhaust soot on the gelcoat.  No smoking at all on 
startup..or ever.


  Has anybody else had to rebuild the tranny and what are the symptoms of 
pending doom?


 Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote:
You didn't say what kind of transmission.  That's important.
I really appreciate all of your support and the depth of the collective 
experience. TIA!

Spencer Johnson

1984 LF38 Alegria

Racine, WI

(home in Mount Prospect, IL)






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Stus-List Red spots under transmission...Oh My!

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

We just completed our 2nd annual Grand Sailing Adventure - 2 weeks cruising.  
We went over 500 miles (Racine WI to Charlevoix MI) and back and motored most 
of it. Near the end I noticed transmission fluid leaking - or spraying - 
underneath the trans.  LF38 with a Westerbeke 27 and a V-Drive transmission.  
I've never had any issues with oil or trans leaking.  I checked the fluid 
levels...no detectable decrease on the dipstick, but, there is only about a 
quarter inch area at the bottom of the stick to show the fluid levels.  When I 
wiped the bottom of the trans off with a paper towel I could not detect where 
the fluid was coming from.  It doesn't appear to be a drip, but, more like a 
spray just underneath the trans.
I might suspect some sort of seal between the trans and shaft, but, am pretty 
clueless about how it is all put together.
Has anybody else encountered a similar problem?   I am asking for a probable 
diagnosis and how much trouble I am in for.  I have about 6 weeks left in the 
season with a few weekend sails and then, probably, motoring for 5 hours or so 
to the winter haulout.
Am I safe to keep using it?  It us usually pretty normal for a pretty loud 
clunk when shifting from neutral to forward or reversebut it hasn't slipped 
or failed.  yet...




Spencer Johnson
1984 LF38 Alegria
Racine, WI
(home in Mount Prospect, IL)
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Stus-List Replacing rubrail Landfall 35

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

James and Wally...The rubrail on my LF38 is pretty beat up.  I agree that it is 
under the toe rail and would be a big whup to replace.
What about just cutting it off flush and adding a standard rub rail?  Probably 
one of those vibrating cutters would make short work of it especially after you 
got started.
The question is:  What do you put over it and how do you attach it?  The 
standard motor boat rub rails are a channel with a replaceable insert screwed 
into the fiberglass.  With maybe some butyl bedding
it might be a reasonable enhancement?
So, what is wrong with this option?  ...not that I would look forward toit..

Spencer Johnson
1984 CC LF 38 Alegria #165
~~~_/) * 
Mount Prospect, IL

James - I believe that vinyl rub rail is part of the deck/hull joint, so 
replacing it would be next to impossible.

Wal

you wrote:
 I am debating whether it is worth the labour to attempt to remove the paint 
and shine up the existing rub rail, or to go ahead and replace.

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 102, Issue 18

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

Hi Jim and WallyI always wondered about that little pin forward of the 
rudder...it has poked me more than once.  It must be a CC 'enhancement' as I 
find it on no other boats in the yard.
It looks like the pin is just a stud...that there are screw threads up into the 
fiberglass.  The explaination offered sounds reasonable, but, if so good...why 
haven't other mfg's picked up onit.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bz49si3Z0GdDOVMzV0Rrdlk4c1U/edit?usp=sharing

Spencer Johnson
1984 CC LF 38 Alegria #165
~~~_/) * 
Mount Prospect, IL


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To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tue, Jul 8, 2014 11:02 am
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 102, Issue 18


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han Re: Contents of CnC-List digest...

oday's Topics:
   1. Re:  small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube (Jim Watts)

-
Message: 1
ate: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 08:48:19 -0700
rom: Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com
o: w...@wbryant.com, 1 CnC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
ubject: Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube
essage-ID:
CA+jZ0FfGBwO113zjFNZ4-kNM-2NPW+karrECx5S_uV_8v2n=g...@mail.gmail.com
ontent-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I think it's easier to replace the pin, and judging from the angle of mine
t has deflected a lot of stuff. If it saves you from even one episode of
loating line jammed in between the rudder and hull...it's worth it.
Here's a shot from last year's haulout, before the pressure wash so the OP
an see what it looks like intact. 
ttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1rJ1svhNAf8/U7wSJ1agY_I/CRM/pG__hZMRryY/w1170-h822-no/pin.jpg


im Watts
aradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
ictoria, BC

n 7 July 2014 21:49, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
rote:
 Paul -

 I have a 1.5 inch long metal stud sticking out of the bottom of my hull
 about six inches in front of the rudder.  Somewhere I have a picture, but
 never put it on a web page.  Every time I haul I wonder if I shouldn't just
 cut it off, but figure what the heck it's not causing a problem so leave it
 alone.

 Bottom line: Clean the hole out and fill it.  It doesn't go through the
 hull, obviously, or you wouldn't have time to ask the question.  VBG  The
 hull is very thick there (possibly 1.5 or more) and a good vinylester or
 epoxy resin thickened up, with a little patch of cloth over it will make it
 go away.

 Here's what I think:   The LF38, with a shoal draft, was originally
 designed with a different rudder.  When I was looking at pictures of them
 before buying mine, I noticed that some older boats had a shallow rudder
 that extended forward of the post, so that the post was about five inches
 behind the leading edge of the rudder.  (Just behind the little stud.)   It
 had the same surface area as my rudder, but didn't extend as deep.  From a
 cruising perspective this makes total sense.  You don't want to be on the
 hook or pushing through shallow water with a deep rudder, because in any
 kind of chop or swell the boat will rock over the keel (I wanted to say
 hobby-horse, but I've been on boats that hobby-horse) and you don't want to
 bang the rudder against the bottom.

 I think that the shallow rudder design didn't work.  Perhaps the boat
 didn't sail as well, or perhaps someone decided that there was no point
 building a bunch of unique rudders, when there was a darn good rudder for a
 darn good 38 sitting on the shelf. Personally, I appreciate the big deep
 rudder on my boat, and I get a lot of lift from it when the boat is trimmed
 well.  It's about six inches shorter than the keel, and I always keep that
 in mind when crossing a sand bar in wind or swell.

 I think that the little stud was there to keep things (fishing lines,
 lady's underwear) from fouling up the rudder/hull joint. That would
 probably work with a rudder that was only an inch behind the stud, as the
 offending item would slide down the stud and hit the leading edge of the
 rudder.  I don't think it has much value with the rudder you have, so fill
 the hole and move on.

 And, here's where everyone will call me a heretic and burn me at the
 stake.  Once I had to do a spot repair, in three hours, to fix a mistake
 made by a boatyard worker.  My boat was taking on water, and the yard boss
 was insisting that it was my fault,
 *SNIP*

 Okay, I deleted 5000 words because I was getting metaphysical.

 Plug the hole and go sailing.

 Wal



 Paul wrote:

 I have come across a small pencil-sized hole in my LF38 hull located a
 few inches 

Stus-List LF38 Dodger available...

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

I am replacing my aging-but-serviceable Dodger and SS Frame with a full 
enclosure.  The Zippers have been replaced.  The vinyl windows could be 
restored with the right kit...I have the Aurora one that would go also if I can 
find it.
If any LF38 owner is interested..it is yours for the taking.  Sunbrella Pacific 
Blue.  I just hate to toss it...Pic's available upon request.

Spencer Johnson
1984 CC LF 38 Alegria #165
~~~_/) * 
Mount Prospect, IL
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