[Elecraft] OT: Troubleshooting LD player...

[John Clifford]

I know, this is about as far from a K2 as one can get, but you guys are the
only people I know who understand electronics.

I'm trying to diagnose and fix a Sony laserdisc player (the old analog 12"
babies) that I've owned since new. The player worked fine until I didn't use
it for a couple of years after I got Dish TV and a DVD player. The player
will not provide a good picture but instead there is 'jitter' as if the
vertical sync needs to be adjusted on the TV set. 

>From what I know of LD players, the laser pickup retrieves an analog signal
that represents a complete picture scan/frame. The CAV LD format has one
frame per track so getting a still image means just keeping the head on the
same track and letting it read the same frame over and over. There is a
servo circuit that controls the head position, and it looks like the head
position is controlled by voltage instead of discrete 'steps' using a
stepper motor.

This brand of LD player had a reputation for developing such problems due to
electrolytic capacitor failure, and that seems like what the problem is
here. I'm wondering if a bad cap is letting a voltage vary sufficiently to
allow the head to wander because I can't even get a good still picture and I
can hear the head moving ever-so-slightly when the signal is bad (it is
quiet during the few moments the picture is good). Or, if there is a cap to
damp voltage swings that has gone bad.

I've got the service manual and I've done a preliminary voltage check on the
power supply and things look to be where they're supposed to be... so the
problem has to be downstream. My next step is to try and look at the voltage
coming from the head positioning motor on back to whatever controls it and
see if something is bouncing around when it shouldn't be. I'm hoping that I
can just tack-solder a discrete component across any surface-mount caps that
might be bad and make the problem go away. It doesn't have to look pretty,
it just has to work.

I'm open to any troubleshooting ideas, and have the service manual in PDF
format if anyone would like to look at it. I don't have the special service
circuit boards or the service disc... but, hey, NASA went to the moon with
less, didn't they? I do have a 100 Mhz scope and a good digital meter, and
of course my trusty soldering iron, and thank goodness this thing has a lot
of discrete components.

Why am I posting here? Because building a K2 and fixing other radios has
given me just enough electronics knowledge to be dangerous. It's all Eric
and Wayne's fault!!

 - jgc

John Clifford KD7KGX

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RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A

[Paul Webb]

Hi

I thought I may have had a RFI problem with my K2/100 that I recently bought
but it wasn’t that.

When I hit the tune button sometimes the K2 would start tuning and then half
way through do a reset.

In the end I measured   the current into the 100 watt stage and found that
as the tuner tried to find a match the current drawn would

Go up and down as you would expect as the load changes.

But I found that my 20 amp PSU could not cope with some of the very short
current drain that it was asked for and dropped its voltage which caused the
k2 to reset half way through its tune cycle .

I was going to look for a better PSU , till I found how much a new one was!

So in the end I have a 17AmHr Gell pack here that I float across the PSU’s
output this will help the PSU cope with the odd high current pulse and also
act as a standby Supply in the event of a mains failure.

I guess others have found the same problem?

73

Paul

M0BMN

 

 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A

[Tom Althoff]

I have the Ten-Tec Orion supply which is an Astron 20A and also experienced
that symptom as recently as yesterday.  When I run on a car battery I do not
notice it.

After the reset I lost my sidetone.  Luckily I asked Don W3FPR for advice
before I tore the radio apart.   He pointed me to the sidetone source menu
and I got it working again.

My problem ONLY occurrs on 40M.   Is yours band specific Paul?

My DC wire between the Astron and the K2 is 18 inches which is how far apart
I keep the units.  It also has a large ferrite filter around it.

Tom K2TA
Greenwood Lake, NY
K2/100 #1117

- Original Message - 
From: "Paul Webb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 4:31 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A


Hi

I thought I may have had a RFI problem with my K2/100 that I recently bought
but it wasn’t that.

When I hit the tune button sometimes the K2 would start tuning and then half
way through do a reset.

In the end I measured   the current into the 100 watt stage and found that
as the tuner tried to find a match the current drawn would

Go up and down as you would expect as the load changes.

But I found that my 20 amp PSU could not cope with some of the very short
current drain that it was asked for and dropped its voltage which caused the
k2 to reset half way through its tune cycle .

I was going to look for a better PSU , till I found how much a new one was!

So in the end I have a 17AmHr Gell pack here that I float across the PSU’s
output this will help the PSU cope with the odd high current pulse and also
act as a standby Supply in the event of a mains failure.

I guess others have found the same problem?

73

Paul

M0BMN






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[Elecraft] Out of Town

[Alan]

I will be out of town until Monday, and out of email contact as well.  I will 
answer all emails by Tuesday.  Have a great weekend.

Alan
W1HYV
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RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A

[Paul Webb]

HI Tom

It seems to happen more when the ATU needs to work harder to find a match,
I have a 40m Windom up here and I can load it on all bands with the K2, but
it has to work hard to get me a match on 160m/80m and this is normally when
it happens, its not a problem since I put a float battery across the PSU's
output.
I have had it mess up some of the settings too on my K2 when it happens,
mostly on the DSP settings like turning the RTC menu option to OFF
All the best
Paul
M0BMN


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Althoff
Sent: 08 December 2005 10:34
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A

I have the Ten-Tec Orion supply which is an Astron 20A and also experienced
that symptom as recently as yesterday.  When I run on a car battery I do not
notice it.

After the reset I lost my sidetone.  Luckily I asked Don W3FPR for advice
before I tore the radio apart.   He pointed me to the sidetone source menu
and I got it working again.

My problem ONLY occurrs on 40M.   Is yours band specific Paul?

My DC wire between the Astron and the K2 is 18 inches which is how far apart
I keep the units.  It also has a large ferrite filter around it.

Tom K2TA
Greenwood Lake, NY
K2/100 #1117

- Original Message - 
From: "Paul Webb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 4:31 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A


Hi

I thought I may have had a RFI problem with my K2/100 that I recently bought
but it wasn’t that.

When I hit the tune button sometimes the K2 would start tuning and then half
way through do a reset.

In the end I measured   the current into the 100 watt stage and found that
as the tuner tried to find a match the current drawn would

Go up and down as you would expect as the load changes.

But I found that my 20 amp PSU could not cope with some of the very short
current drain that it was asked for and dropped its voltage which caused the
k2 to reset half way through its tune cycle .

I was going to look for a better PSU , till I found how much a new one was!

So in the end I have a 17AmHr Gell pack here that I float across the PSU’s
output this will help the PSU cope with the odd high current pulse and also
act as a standby Supply in the event of a mains failure.

I guess others have found the same problem?

73

Paul

M0BMN






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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.12/192 - Release Date: 05/12/2005
 



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RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A

[Stewart Baker]

Used to have a Windom up here. The RF from it got into everything:-
K2 PSU, Computer, UPS, Telephone and Alarm system.
Changed to a balanced (Doublet) antenna, end of problems.

73
Stewart G3RXQ

On Thu, 8 Dec 2005 12:04:13 -, Paul Webb wrote:
> HI Tom
>
> It seems to happen more when the ATU needs to work harder to find a match,
> I have a 40m Windom up here and I can load it on all bands with the K2, but
> it has to work hard to get me a match on 160m/80m and this is normally when
> it happens, its not a problem since I put a float battery across the PSU's
> output.
> I have had it mess up some of the settings too on my K2 when it happens,
> mostly on the DSP settings like turning the RTC menu option to OFF
> All the best
> Paul
> M0BMN
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Althoff
> Sent: 08 December 2005 10:34
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A
>
> I have the Ten-Tec Orion supply which is an Astron 20A and also experienced
> that symptom as recently as yesterday.  When I run on a car battery I do not
> notice it.
>
> After the reset I lost my sidetone.  Luckily I asked Don W3FPR for advice
> before I tore the radio apart.   He pointed me to the sidetone source menu
> and I got it working again.
>
> My problem ONLY occurrs on 40M.   Is yours band specific Paul?
>
> My DC wire between the Astron and the K2 is 18 inches which is how far apart
> I keep the units.  It also has a large ferrite filter around it.
>
> Tom K2TA
> Greenwood Lake, NY
> K2/100 #1117
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Paul Webb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 4:31 AM
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A
>
>
> Hi
>
> I thought I may have had a RFI problem with my K2/100 that I recently bought
> but it wasn’t that.
>
> When I hit the tune button sometimes the K2 would start tuning and then half
> way through do a reset.
>
> In the end I measured   the current into the 100 watt stage and found that
> as the tuner tried to find a match the current drawn would
>
> Go up and down as you would expect as the load changes.
>
> But I found that my 20 amp PSU could not cope with some of the very short
> current drain that it was asked for and dropped its voltage which caused the
> k2 to reset half way through its tune cycle .
>
> I was going to look for a better PSU , till I found how much a new one was!
>
> So in the end I have a 17AmHr Gell pack here that I float across the PSU’s
> output this will help the PSU cope with the odd high current pulse and also
> act as a standby Supply in the event of a mains failure.
>
> I guess others have found the same problem?
>
> 73
>
> Paul
>
> M0BMN
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.12/192 - Release Date: 05/12/2005
>
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[Elecraft] Re: ARRL 160 & Rx antenna

[J F]

Thanks Vic, I'll look it over. If nothing else, it
would be a great backup antenna when the winds rip the
other one down!
73,
Julius
n2wn

I built a ferrite loop antenna for 160, and it is much
quieter than my inverted L.  See



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to be down right now!
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A

[Cfzepp]

Off center feeding of a dipole antenna greatly  enhances feed line radiation 
which most often causes a new set of  problems.  This is why you usually see 
the Windom style type antennas  having to use some form of a line isolator in 
the feed line.  It's  much simpler to stay with center feeding to avoid all 
these  issues...   

Don / WA9TGT


WA9TGT / Donnie Garrett /  Muncie, IN 
ARCI #6447, ARS #1717, AmQRP, ECI-QRP #001 (Indiana)
Drake 2B,  R4A, R4B, K2 #3186, K1 #1806 
LDG Z-11 Auto Tuner, 102' CF Zepp using glass  doobies!
www.wa9tgt.com  

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Re: [Elecraft] Clever antenna tuning ideas wanted

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedsy]

Vic Rosenthal wrote:



OK, here is what I want to do:

I have a 33' (10m) vertical with the base about 10' (3.3m) above ground. 
It has four 8' (2.4m) radials which are connected to the feedpoint through 
a coil which resonates the system on 7 MHz.  It works as well or better 
than any vertical that I've used on 40m -- low SWR and good results.  It's 
fed through a relatively short (20', 6m) length of RG-213.


I would like to use it on 80m and 30m as well.  My first try was to simply 
use the KAT100 to tune it.  It tunes fine on both bands (1:1 at the rig), 
but results are fair-to-poor on 30 and poor-to-worthless on 80.


On 30m, the coax losses are reasonable (the SWR on the coax is about 8 to 
1, but it's very short).  I suspect the problem is that the radial ground 
system is very poor on this band (on the other hand, the long vertical 
radiator should provide a slight amount of gain).  So I may try 
paralleling a set of radials tuned for 30m.  They will also be short, but 
resonated with a coil or stub.  Does this sound like a good 
analysis/solution?


...

Hi Vic,

Do you have EZNEC or any other form of NEC?  I had a quick look at what you 
have, making many assumptions such as element / radial diameters, slope of 
radials, azimuth of radials, ground type etc etc etc, and I think that on 
30m the vertical element + radials + radial loading coil looks more like an 
offset fed "dipole" with a drive point impedance around 120 +j something. 
The vertical pattern is still good, with a little gain over a monopole. On 
80m the vertical pattern broadens with the take-off angle increasing to 26 - 
28 degrees, but still with a deep null at 90 degrees although the gain is 
poor. The drive point impedance is VERY low and Complex. The actual 
orientation and slope of the existing radials will have great effect on all 
bands, and some form of additional 80m radials could be required if the 
vertical portion is not top loaded.


If you want to add or remove parts when changing bands, you might like to 
consider "passive switching".  Parallel tuned traps are one form of 
"switch", but there is also the series tuned form. For example if you wanted 
to remove the tuned coil used with the radials on 40m when going to 30m, a 
series LC tuned to 30m placed across the 40m "radial coil" would do this. 
Some fiddling is needed because there would be some interaction between the 
40m and 30m circuits. All sorts of games can be played with passive 
switching although there is a limit as to how many bands can be handled by 
one switching module, and you don't want to introduce loss by using dinky 
little coils etc.


If you would like to continue, I suggest that we do it off-list to avoid 
using List Bandwidth.


73,
Geoff.
GM4ESD






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[Elecraft] re: Elecraft reflector, antenna question

[Steve Jackson]

"I guess the way to deal with it is to add more tuned
radials in parallel and a switchable base network, but
I would like to avoid any more control wires that have
to go through my lightning suppression panel (I can't
pass DC through the coax, either).  Does anyone have
any suggestions?"

* * *

Vic

You have received several comments that are on the
right track.  Adding in a latching relay at the top of
your vertical, to connect either a capacity hat or a
horizontal element, is the way to go.  Personally I'd
go for the capacity hat, and maybe I'd even try and
see if I could skip the relay!  EZNEC is your friend. 
But I digress.

You can further your simplification by using a Part 15
RF remote trigger for the relay, assuming your antenna
is closer than, say, 350 feet.  "Look Ma, no wires!"  

I too cannot run DC through many of my hardline feeds
because the PolyPhasers block it.

Assuming your vertical is both hollow and at DC
ground, simply run a single conductor up the center to
fire the relay, with the return through the element.

Power can be derived from a small gel cell and a tiny
solar panel  / charger, located at the antenna.  The
RX does not have to be fancy ... look at the TX and RX
modules here:  

http://www.ramseyelectronics.com/cgi-bin/commerce.exe?preadd=action&key=TX433

and the latching relay, as we Elecrafters know, draws
no power except when switching.  Your limitations are
physical:  the relay needs to handle the current and
voltage at that point, and therefore the size / mass
of packaging is the only real challenge, to my mind. 
If your setup must be able to go QRO, then some math
is in order.

73  gl  Steve KZ1X/4



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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL 160 & Rx antenna

[J F]

 However, my questions (finally) are these: 
> If I have a great Rx 
> only antenna won't I be able to hear many more
> stations that I probably  won't be able to work?

Maybe not many more, but certainly more if your Tx
antenna is lacking. That would be the case no matter
your power level.

Okay, so there is a
> possibility that some of 
> those stations will also have great Rx antennas and
> so between the two 
> of us we may be able to work where previously I may
> not have been able 
> to hear (and hence work) them.  But does anyone have
> any experience with 
> this and care to comment?

Sure, my previous 160M setup I used the vertical for
Rx and Tx. I though I worked KL7 (an very hopeful ESP
QSO) but it wasn't solid and I doubt he really worked
me. Using a decent Rx antenna and the same vertical, I
now have a solid QSO. I heard 8Q7 on 80M with a Rx
antenna, just could crack the pileup with 100W and
keep my rate up. Propagation is a big factor. Many
DXpeditions report one way propagation, and I'm sure
you've experienced it as well when someone is booming
in, yet hears few if any SS.
  
The guy I worked in
> Greece was using a 
> 1000' Beverage for the USA (one and the longest of 4
> that he had total) 
> and I think was running about 800W.  With my
> Carolina Windom at about 
> 45' that I used on both Tx & Rx I was barely able to
> copy him initially, 
> then as his signal finally improved so that I could
> copy so-so, good 
> enough to copy his callsign after enough times of
> him calling CQ or a 
> few people now and again answering him (while there
> was several big 
> pileups a few kHz above).

This is great DX, sounds like propagation was on your
side most of all. Timing is everything as well, that
window of opportunity may only have lasted 5 to 15
minutes!

Catch you in the next one...
73,
Julius
n2wn
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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: Dec 8, 2005 - Jan 8, 2006

[Ken Newman]

N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
Dec 8,  2005 - Jan 8, 2006
~~
40 METER FOXHUNT - Each Friday 0200z to 0329z
(Thurs 9 PM to 10:29 PM EST)
80 METER FOXHUNT - Each Wednesday 0200z to 0329z
(Tues 9 PM to 10:29 PM EST)
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org
~~
EU-PSK QRP Party  ... QRP Category
Dec 9,  2000z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.qrp.ru/eupsk_e.htm
~~
ARRL 10 Meter Contest (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Dec 10, z to Dec 11, 2400z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2005
~~
The Great Colorado Snowshoe Run (40 Mtr CW)... QRP Category
Dec 11, 0200z to 0359z
Rules: http://www.cqc.org/contests/
~~
NACC Straight Key/Bug Sprint *** QRP CONTEST! ***
UTC: Dec 14, 0130z to 0330z
EST: Dec 13, 8:30 PM to 10:30 PM
Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/contests.html
~~
AGB Party Contest (80M CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Dec 16, 2100z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/eu1eu/agb_party.htm
~~
MDXA PSK-31 DeathMatch  ... QRP Category
Dec 17, z to Dec 18, 2400z
Rules: http://www.mdxa1.org/deathmatch.html
~~
RAC Canada Winter Contest (CW/Ph) ... QRP Category
Dec 17, z to  2359z
Rules: http://www.rac.ca/service/infocont.htm
See http://www.qrp-canada.com/ for more awards from QRP-Canada
~~
Croatian CW Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Dec 17, 1400z to Dec 18, 1400z
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/9acwc.htm
or: http://www.qsl.net/ctc/
~~
Stew Perry (W1BB) Topband Distance Challenge (CW) ... QRP Category
Dec 17, 1500z to Dec 18, 1500z
Rules: http://jzap.com/k7rat/stew.rules.txt
~~
QRP ARCI Holiday Spirits Homebrew Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Dec 18, 2000z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.qrparci.org/
~~
RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST ***
EST: Dec 18, 9 PM to 11 PM
UTC: Dec 19, 0200z 0400z
Rules: http://fpqrp.com
~~
R A E M Contest .. Low Power category
Dec 25, 0200z to 0959z
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/raem.htm
~~
?Holiday Milliwatt CW Contest *** QRP Contest ***
Dec 26, 1800 to 2200 z
Dec 27, 2000 to  z
Dec 28, 2200 to 0200 z
Rules: http://www.knightlites.org/Knightlite/milliwatt_contest.htm
~~
AGB NYSB -"New Year SnowBall" Contest (80M - All) ...QRP Category
Jan 1, z to 0100z 
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/eu1eu/agb_nysb.htm

~~
AGCW Happy New Year Contest (CW)...QRP Category
Jan 1, 0900z to 1200z
Rules: http://www.agcw.de/english/contest/happynew_e.htm
~~
Adventure Radio Society - Spartan Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest!
Jan 3, 0200z to 0400z (First Monday 9 PM EST)
Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/
~~
The World QRP Federation (WQF) QRP Party (All) ... QRP Contest!
Jan 6, z to 2400z
Rules: http://ruqrp.narod.ru/wqf_e.htm
~~
Original QRP Contest (CW - 80, 40 & 20m) ... QRP Category
Jan 7, 1500z to Jan 8, 1500z 
Rules: http://www.qrpcc.de/contestrules/oqrpr.html

~~
ARRL RTTY Roundup ... <= 150W Category
Jan 7, 1800z to Jan 8, 2400z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2006
~~
EUCW 160 Meter Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Jan 7, 2000z to 2300z and 
Jan 8, 0400z to 0700z

Rules: http://www.uft.net/articles.php?lng=fr&pg=123
~~
Thanks to SM3CER, WA7BNM, N0AX(ARRL) and others 
for assistance in compiling this calendar. 


Please foreward the contest info you sponsor to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and
we will post it and give it more publicity.
Anyone may use this "N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar" for your website,
newsletter, e-mail list or other media as you choose.  
(Include a credit to the source of this material of course.)

72 de
Ken Newman - N2CQ 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


http://www.amqrp.org/contesting/contesting.html
http://www.n3epa.org/Pages/Contest/contest.htm
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RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

If the K2/100 is properly fused according to the instructions, it should not
draw more than 20 amps without opening the fuse! 

Perhaps the crowbar voltage on the supply is set too low? 

Why not tune up at reduced power?

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] Clever antenna tuning ideas wanted

[Vic K2VCO]

I'd like to thank everyone for their suggestions on how to make my 32' 
vertical with 8' elevated loaded radials perform on 80 and 30 meters as 
well as 40.


It's clear I will have to do some major surgery on the antenna to add 80 
meters, such as a trap plus a toploading wire, or a movable wire (N6WG). 
 Otherwise, the high reactance and low radiation resistance at the base 
will remain a problem.  AB9CA pointed out that a tuner at the base could 
efficiently handle a low resistance if the reactance were tuned out by 
some top-loading.


For 30 meters there seem to be some elegant solutions.  W3FPR mentioned 
that two symmetrical radials are enough, and EZNEC agrees that the 
difference in overall gain between two and four is less than 0.1 db!


One approach would be to separate the two pairs of radials and feed them 
each through an appropriate inductance (about 11.5 uh on 40 and 1.7 uh 
on 30).  This would resonate the system on both 40 and 30 meters. I also 
noticed (thanks, EZNEC) that with all four radials connected together, 
all I would have to do is short out the existing 40 meter inductance to 
obtain a low SWR on 30!  But that would require a switch or relay which 
I want to avoid.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A

[Vic K2VCO]

Paul Webb wrote,


I thought I may have had a RFI problem with my K2/100 that I recently bought
but it wasn’t that.





But I found that my 20 amp PSU could not cope with some of the very short
current drain that it was asked for and dropped its voltage which caused the
k2 to reset half way through its tune cycle.


I think this is likely correct.  I used Astrons in an environment loaded 
with RF (1500 watts into an inverted L a few feet away on 80/160) and 
never had any problem.  However, 20 amps is marginal for a K2/100 and 
the Astrons defnitely do cut out when you exceed their current ratings.


Everything else electrical in my house suffered from the RF, including 
some terminating resistors in my alarm system that appeared to be 
*vaporized!*.  But the Astrons did not hiccup.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A

[Steven Pituch]

Just a note to all about Astron Power supplies in general.  The Astron
linear power supplies that I have owned were very nice, but please realize
that the "20" in in their name, I believe, is for a tempory peak amount of
amps.  The "20" series of supplies are rated at 16 amps continuous.  That’s
why the standard Astron used for 100 Watt (20 amp) rigs is usually the "35"
series, which are rated at 25 amps continous.  See:
http://www.astroncorp.com/linear.shtml

Steve Pituch, W2MY

-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
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RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Steve, W2MY wrote:
Just a note to all about Astron Power supplies in general.  The Astron
linear power supplies that I have owned were very nice, but please realize
that the "20" in in their name, I believe, is for a tempory peak amount of
amps...

-

The Astron 20 is rated at 20 amps ICS. ICS (used to be called ICAS) simply
means Intermittent Commercial Service. (The older ICAS designation included
the word "Amateur".) Unless one plans to put a brick on the key and run full
carrier 24/7 without ever switching to receive, the ICS rating is the
important number.

K2/100's will vary in their current demand somewhat, but the current demands
of mine should be typical. At 100 watts output it requires a low of 15.5
amps on 20 meters to a high of 18.5 amps on 15 meters across all the bands
from 160 through 10 (including 60 meters). Again, those are intermittent
peaks, of course, when keying CW or on SSB voice peaks. The average drain is
much, much lower. That's well within the normal rating of any supply rated
at 20 amps ICS.

When adjusting an antenna tuner, always tune up at reduced power. Ideally,
use only the minimum power needed by the SWR bridge. When faced with severe
SWR conditions such as exist while adjusting the tuner, almost any rig will
draw excessive current. 

Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] Hakko 808 users ?

[Able2fly]

I'm preparing to order a Hakko 808 desoldering tool and am  wondering if I 
will also need to obtain a variety of additional nozzles to  accomplish the 
usual day to day tasks, or does the supplied tip leave  little to be desired? 
How 
frequently do nozzles need to be  replaced?
 
Thanks.  Bill,   K3UJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A

[Jack Brindle]

Is the supply linear or a switcher?

So far, no one has asked!

On Dec 7, 2005, at 7:15 PM, Elmore's wrote:

I am in the testing phase of my KPA-100 construction using an  
Astron 20A power supply. When I attempt to adjust the power of the  
K2 in Tune mode it will reset at levels between 40-90W depending on  
the band selected. I tried adjusting the power using a battery and  
I was successful to 100W without having a reset. Therefore the  
problem points to the Astron. Tech Support mentioned to me that  
this is a problem that has happened a number of times.


I have tried ferrite beads on the DC lines, a capacitor across the  
'+' & '-' leads and verifying that the '-' lead is connected to the  
case (a solution that I found on the web). Nothing has helped.


I haven't found anything on the discussion list addressing this  
issue. Has anyone had this problem ?


TNX & 73,  Jim

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-Jack Brindle, W6FB
===


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[Elecraft] Polar Bear Activator Endorsements!

[Edward R. Breneiser]

If you already have a Polar Bear Activator Certificate, 
grab a few endorsements for it!

Check it out at: 

http://www.wa3wsj.com/files/PolarBears/PBActivatorEndorse.html

72,
Ed, WA3WSJ
Polar Bear #1


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[Elecraft] K2/100 HI CUR

[JohnChanceRead]

I have enjoyed reading the problems of others but now its 'the winter of my  
discontent' as they say.  
I've successfully built the K2, KSB, 160 converter, DSP and finished the  ATU 
(needs testing and not connected). I am now finishing the K100
I have got to the end of the test where one fires up with 20W and I've got  
HI CUR.  I have gone through the tests 3 times now and  cannot see any 
irregularities.  I have looked at R21-22 and T1  and turned R26/R27 slightly 
clockwise 
as advise but still have the  problem.
I am feeding into 239 socket and 213 cable through a Kenwood ATU and then  
into Bird 500W load.  All tests are perfect of the K2.
I noted on my power supply source that when set to 20W the PSU is  delivering 
about 3 amps.  The Kenwood Power Meter is not reading anything  much and the 
K2 LCD shows   1.0-1.
Although in the production of electronics during my life, I left 'amateur  
radio' some 15 years ago when I went deaf.  I am now try to pick up the  
threads 
and I cannot remember how those funning things with three legs work  !!.
I would really appreciate some help here guys.
Regards John G4BOU
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RFI problem using Astron 20A

[Paul Heller]

So in the end I have a 17AmHr Gell pack here that I float across the PSU’s
output this will help the PSU cope with the odd high current pulse and also
act as a standby Supply in the event of a mains failure.


 

That's what I do, except that the battery is bigger (80 AH or so).  My 
theory is that the battery will handle the need for intermittent current 
spikes better than the power supply alone, plus if the power supply does 
something nasty, like lose regulation and decide to put out a high 
voltage or some spikes that might zap the gear, the battery should 
absorb that and hopefully blow the power supply fuse.  This also 
provides a nice emergency power source - I ran my K2/100 from home 
during field day weekend just from the battery, power supply unplugged, 
and had enough battery voltage left to continue for a while if I'd 
wanted to after two days of CW operation (much longer than that and it 
would be time to crank up the generator, but two days isn't bad).


/Paul
W3PH

--

Paul Heller
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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RE: RE: [Elecraft] K2 BFO Test

[Sverre Holm]

> -Original Message-
> 
> The preferred method of padding the BFO capacitors is to 
> maintain the ratio between C173 and C174 by paralleling them 
> with capacitors.  A single capacitor from the junction to 
> ground will be in parallel with the series combination of 
> C173 and the varactor D38 and could make the BFO less stable 
> than it should be.
> 

Don,

How about a single capacitor (1-4 pF) from the junction of the crystals and
the L33 inductor as in
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-08/msg00562.html?
Does that create potential stability problems also?

I've got this link on my K2 mods page and just wanted to make sure I can
recommend it and keep it there. I have never had any problems with BFO range
myself so I have no personal experience with this myself.

73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/
 

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Re: [Elecraft] CW poll

[Fred Jensen]

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:


Egad! The ARRL did this a couple of years ago and I thought the firestorm it
kicked up would never stop! They finally took the poll off-line in the
middle of the run after it appeared that someone set up scripts to vote
automatically and "stuff the ballot box" endlessly! 

 

I remember that.  Nearly every list I was subscribed to filled with 
comments on each side (not all civilized) regardless of the list 
subject.  I wonder why they are doing this again, given that the results 
are worthless, even without the "Chicago Voting Protocol?"


Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw

"Insanity is continuing to do what you
already know doesn't work"
(or something like that)
  Albert Einstein


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[Elecraft] Any K2's in Forest Grove, OR area?

[lfcluff]

I have a K2 (about 2 months) and think it's a great tranceiver.  I live in 
Loveland, Co.  My brother lives in Forest Grove, Or and is thinking about 
getting an FT-1000 MKV Field or a TS-2000.  I'm trying to convince him to get 
the K2/100 with all the options (and I'll build it for him).

He hasn't seen my K2.  Is there anyone in the Forest Grove, OR area who has a 
K2 that is willing to let my brother (W7CKW) check it out?

Leon, NE0N
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RE: RE: [Elecraft] K2 BFO Test

[Ken K3IU]

Sverre:

This fix (that you describe) worked for me on a K2 that I built within the
past year. The LOW BFO freq was just slightly high and putting a low value
cap as you describe lowered the LOW freq to within specs, didn't change the
high BFO freq, and did not cause any instability. I don't remember the exact
value cap I used and the K2 is no longer here for me to look at.
 
73,
Ken K3IU

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sverre Holm
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 4:07 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: RE: [Elecraft] K2 BFO Test

> -Original Message-
> 
> The preferred method of padding the BFO capacitors is to maintain the 
> ratio between C173 and C174 by paralleling them with capacitors.  A 
> single capacitor from the junction to ground will be in parallel with 
> the series combination of
> C173 and the varactor D38 and could make the BFO less stable than it 
> should be.
> 

Don,

How about a single capacitor (1-4 pF) from the junction of the crystals and
the L33 inductor as in
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-08/msg00562.html?
Does that create potential stability problems also?

I've got this link on my K2 mods page and just wanted to make sure I can
recommend it and keep it there. I have never had any problems with BFO range
myself so I have no personal experience with this myself.

73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/
 

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Re: [Elecraft] CW poll

[Thom R LaCosta]

On Wed, 7 Dec 2005, Fred Jensen wrote:



I remember that.  Nearly every list I was subscribed to filled with comments 
on each side (not all civilized) regardless of the list subject.  I wonder 
why they are doing this again, given that the results are worthless, even 
without the "Chicago Voting Protocol?"


Perhaps to put forth the image that they solicit and consider
the opinions of the amateur radio community?

73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring,
Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel,
Elecraft Owners Database
www.tlchost.net/hosting/  ***  Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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RE: RE: [Elecraft] K2 BFO Test

[Don Wilhelm]

Sverre,

I have not tried that small capacitor from the junction of the crystals and
L33 so I cannot comment on it from that standpoint.

What I would like to state is that when one pulls a crystal by any method,
the stability becomes worse as the amount of pulling becomes greater.  One
should be aware of this and related facts when modifying any circuit in a
way that is not 'approved and tested'.  Also due to the nature of crystals,
something that happens to work in one situation may not work the same for
all cases.  Remember that I am only bringing up cautions here, I am not
makeing a firm statement about the operation one way or another.

It certainly would be nice if someone (or better yet, several someones) with
access to suitable instrumentation could try this or any other mod and
report the results.  The fact that it worked on a sample of one does not
create a statement that it will work in other cases - that is simple
statistical knowledge - I would like to see something that says it works in
at least 5 or 10 trials before drawing any firm conclusions.

So, yes I think it should be left on your website, but you may want to put a
"Use at your own peril" disclaimer on all those that are not 'approved by
Elecraft' or otherwise adequately tested (and I invite you to add any of my
mods to that group as well, even though I have absolute confidence in my own
work).

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
> >
> > The preferred method of padding the BFO capacitors is to
> > maintain the ratio between C173 and C174 by paralleling them
> > with capacitors.  A single capacitor from the junction to
> > ground will be in parallel with the series combination of
> > C173 and the varactor D38 and could make the BFO less stable
> > than it should be.
> >
>
> Don,
>
> How about a single capacitor (1-4 pF) from the junction of the
> crystals and
> the L33 inductor as in
> http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-08/msg00562.html?
> Does that create potential stability problems also?
>
> I've got this link on my K2 mods page and just wanted to make sure I can
> recommend it and keep it there. I have never had any problems
> with BFO range
> myself so I have no personal experience with this myself.
>
> 73
>
> Sverre
> LA3ZA
> http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/
>

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RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 HI CUR

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

First, check to be certain that you increased the CAL CUR setting to 3.5
Amps - the KPA100 adds to the current drain of the base K2 and the limit
must be increased from the default of 2.5 Amps.

Having said that, let's get down to some other 'facts' - first, the Hi-Cur
is only an indication that the base K2 is drawing more current than the CAL
CUR setting - there is usually no harm in setting the CAL CUR limit to
something above 3.5 Amps for troubleshooting purposes - if only to see just
how much current is actually being drawn by the base K2 - read the current
on the K2 display so you know how much current is actually being reported to
the K2 microprocessor.

Next, it would be of interest to know how much current the base K2 draws
when transmitting at full power into a 50 ohm resistive dummy load (KPA100
completely disconnected).

I will say that the most common cause of HI-CUR warnings is a problem in the
base K2 Low Pass Filter - check the toroids for the correct number of turns
and the capacitors for proper values.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I have enjoyed reading the problems of others but now its 'the
> winter of my
> discontent' as they say.
> I've successfully built the K2, KSB, 160 converter, DSP and
> finished the  ATU
> (needs testing and not connected). I am now finishing the K100
> I have got to the end of the test where one fires up with 20W and
> I've got
> HI CUR.  I have gone through the tests 3 times now and  cannot see any
> irregularities.  I have looked at R21-22 and T1  and turned
> R26/R27 slightly clockwise
> as advise but still have the  problem.
> I am feeding into 239 socket and 213 cable through a Kenwood ATU
> and then
> into Bird 500W load.  All tests are perfect of the K2.
> I noted on my power supply source that when set to 20W the PSU is
>  delivering
> about 3 amps.  The Kenwood Power Meter is not reading anything
> much and the
> K2 LCD shows   1.0-1.
> Although in the production of electronics during my life, I left
> 'amateur
> radio' some 15 years ago when I went deaf.  I am now try to pick
> up the  threads
> and I cannot remember how those funning things with three legs work  !!.
> I would really appreciate some help here guys.
> Regards John G4BOU
>
>
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RE: [Elecraft] Clever antenna tuning ideas wanted

[Don Wilhelm]

Vic,

A series circuit resonant at 30 meters will do a good job of shorting out
the 40 meter inductance (no relay) - but the inductor used for 40 meters
would have to be modified to compensate for the effect of the series circuit
when on 40 and produce the same resultant inductance.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Vic K2VCO
> Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 11:30 AM
> To: Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Clever antenna tuning ideas wanted
>
>
> I'd like to thank everyone for their suggestions on how to make my 32'
> vertical with 8' elevated loaded radials perform on 80 and 30 meters as
> well as 40.
>
> It's clear I will have to do some major surgery on the antenna to add 80
> meters, such as a trap plus a toploading wire, or a movable wire (N6WG).
>   Otherwise, the high reactance and low radiation resistance at the base
> will remain a problem.  AB9CA pointed out that a tuner at the base could
> efficiently handle a low resistance if the reactance were tuned out by
> some top-loading.
>
> For 30 meters there seem to be some elegant solutions.  W3FPR mentioned
> that two symmetrical radials are enough, and EZNEC agrees that the
> difference in overall gain between two and four is less than 0.1 db!
>
> One approach would be to separate the two pairs of radials and feed them
> each through an appropriate inductance (about 11.5 uh on 40 and 1.7 uh
> on 30).  This would resonate the system on both 40 and 30 meters. I also
> noticed (thanks, EZNEC) that with all four radials connected together,
> all I would have to do is short out the existing 40 meter inductance to
> obtain a low SWR on 30!  But that would require a switch or relay which
> I want to avoid.
>
> --
> 73,
> Vic, K2VCO
> Fresno CA
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] Clever antenna tuning ideas wanted

[Vic K2VCO]

Don Wilhelm wrote:


A series circuit resonant at 30 meters will do a good job of shorting out
the 40 meter inductance (no relay) - but the inductor used for 40 meters
would have to be modified to compensate for the effect of the series circuit
when on 40 and produce the same resultant inductance.


GM4ESD also suggested this and I am going to try this, since it will 
require the least modification to my existing antenna.  I will build up 
the circuit on my bench and adjust it for the reactance shown by EZNEC 
with my MFJ analyzer.  Then I'll hook it up and make final adjustments 
on the antenna.  It will be interesting to see if the antenna appears to 
perform better.



--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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re: [Elecraft] Clever antenna tuning ideas wanted

[Michael Babineau VE3WMB]

 Vic K2VCO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote :


I would like to use it on 80m and 30m as well.  My first try was to
simply use the KAT100 to tune it.  It tunes fine on both bands (1:1 at
the rig), but results are fair-to-poor on 30 and poor-to-worthless on 
80.


Can you clarify are the radials elevated above ground or are they on or
below the ground ? It sounds like they are tuned so my guess is 
elevated?




On 30m, the coax losses are reasonable (the SWR on the coax is about 8
to 1, but it's very short).  I suspect the problem is that the radial
ground system is very poor on this band (on the other hand, the long
vertical radiator should provide a slight amount of gain).  So I may 
try

paralleling a set of radials tuned for 30m.  They will also be short,
but resonated with a coil or stub.  Does this sound like a good
analysis/solution?


I suspect that this would help. You could also just try a single 
elevated
tuned radial for 30m  to make it into an L antenna with some 
directionality

in the direction of the radial.



On 80m, it's more complicated.  The ground system is terrible, the
radiation resistance of the vertical very low, and the SWR and losses 
on

the coax very high.  No wonder it's a dummy load!  I guess the way to
deal with it is to add more tuned radials in parallel and a switchable
base network, but I would like to avoid any more control wires that 
have

to go through my lightning suppression panel (I can't pass DC through
the coax, either).  Does anyone have any suggestions?



Well,  one trick to put this sort of antenna on 80 is to make it into 
an inverted
L by running a horizontal (or nearly horizontal) wire off the top of 
the antenna.
Since it doesn't sound like it is practical to switch the wire maybe 
you could

add an 80M trap and enough wire to get it close to resonance on 80m.

I'm thinking something like the Unadilla traps 
(http://www.unadilla.com/traps.htm).
You could always tack the second of the pair of traps to the single 30m 
tuned
radial I suggested above and more wire on the other side of the trap to 
make it
a dual-band radial on 30m / 80. If you don't have space to run in in a 
straight

line bend it as necessary to make it fit your lot.


Michael VE3WMB


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Re: [Elecraft] Any K2's in Forest Grove, OR area?

[Kevin Rock]

Hey Ron,
   I think that may be a cue for you ;)  But if Ron is out and about I 
live not too far away in the suburbs of lovely Buxton, Oregon.  I have a 
K2/100 which gets used now and then.

73,
   Kevin.   KD5ONS


On Thu, 08 Dec 2005 21:26:46 +, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I have a K2 (about 2 months) and think it's a great tranceiver.  I live 
in Loveland, Co.  My brother lives in Forest Grove, Or and is thinking 
about getting an FT-1000 MKV Field or a TS-2000.  I'm trying to convince 
him to get the K2/100 with all the options (and I'll build it for him).


He hasn't seen my K2.  Is there anyone in the Forest Grove, OR area who 
has a K2 that is willing to let my brother (W7CKW) check it out?


Leon, NE0N





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