Re: [TANKS] Re: motors......

2014-04-08 Thread Michael Butts
There are drop down boxes on the following page where you can specify what you 
are interested in: http://www.maxonmotorusa.com/maxon/view/catalog
Pick a wattage and you will get a listing of all motors at that power.
Mike B

> On Apr 8, 2014, at 8:17 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:
> 
> ya, they do cost a bit, but they are not built like basic motors. china 
> motors, are they like them little hobby mabuchi motors with plastic end caps 
> that scream with anything more than 3 volts, make pretty magic smoke and then 
> burn your fingers?
>  
> i still have some old Maxons in some of the 8' r/c boats and subs and 
> wouldn't trade them for anything (other than for new Maxons).
>  
> as to their larger motors, i haven't had any personal experience with them, 
> but would love to see them running in person.
>  
> and as to China motors, don't know of them other than i would have to check 
> them with a geiger counter and then scrape for lead poisoning and mold testing
>  
> so, you have a page or link to see these 400w motors they have? curious to 
> see their specs
>  
> chris
>  
> In a message dated 4/8/2014 4:59:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
> buttsakau...@gmail.com writes:
> In short. Maxon's 400w+ motors are $800+. Generally absurdly expensive unless 
> you found them on crazy sale on ebay. Even then not worth the money compared 
> to China motor specials.
> Mike Butts
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Re: [TANKS] Re: motors......

2014-04-08 Thread OdysseySlipways
ya, they do cost a bit, but they are not built like basic motors.  china 
motors, are they like them little hobby mabuchi motors with plastic end  caps 
that scream with anything more than 3 volts, make pretty magic smoke and  
then burn your fingers?
 
i still have some old Maxons in some of the 8' r/c boats and subs and  
wouldn't trade them for anything (other than for new Maxons).
 
as to their larger motors, i haven't had any personal experience with  
them, but would love to see them running in person.
 
and as to China motors, don't know of them other than i would have to check 
 them with a geiger counter and then scrape for lead poisoning and mold  
testing
 
so, you have a page or link to see these 400w motors they have? curious to  
see their specs
 
chris
 
 
In a message dated 4/8/2014 4:59:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
buttsakau...@gmail.com writes:

In short. Maxon's 400w+ motors are $800+. Generally absurdly expensive  
unless you found them on crazy sale on ebay. Even then not worth the money  
compared to China motor specials.
Mike Butts

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Re: [TANKS] Re: motors......

2014-04-08 Thread Michael Butts
In short. Maxon's 400w+ motors are $800+. Generally absurdly expensive unless 
you found them on crazy sale on ebay. Even then not worth the money compared to 
China motor specials.
Mike Butts

> On Apr 8, 2014, at 3:46 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:
> 
> oh, i know they are costly, i just wanted to see if they have made anything 
> in comparison to scooter motors
>  
> In a message dated 4/8/2014 1:42:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
> steve...@gmail.com writes:
> Chris, I don't get you Dude!  Your complaining about the shipping from TNC 
> and in the next email asking about Maxon motors?  You will pay several 
> hundred dollars (per motor) for a wattage comparable solution from Maxon and 
> that's assuming you'll find a distributor that will deal with you.
> 
> ST
> 
> 
>> On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 11:33:00 AM UTC-4, odyssey...@aol.com wrote:
>> i was just looking to see what might be out there in the way of 24 volt 
>> motors and Maxon popped up. we have used some of their smaller motors in the 
>> larger r/c boats and they had plenty of power and never let us down, so when 
>> their name popped up, i figure it couldn't hurt any to see what they 
>> have..
>>  
>> i have no clue as to what they have as they don't just list stuff easily by 
>> volts/watts, so if anyone knows what to enter into this page (not like i 
>> expect them to actually have anything to offer)
>>  
>> http://www.maxonmotorusa.com/maxon/view/msp/
>>  
>> chris
> 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: motors......

2014-04-08 Thread OdysseySlipways
oh, i know they are costly, i just wanted to see if they have made anything 
 in comparison to scooter motors
 
 
In a message dated 4/8/2014 1:42:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
steve...@gmail.com writes:

Chris, I don't get you Dude!  Your complaining about the  shipping from TNC 
and in the next email asking about Maxon motors?  You  will pay several 
hundred dollars (per motor) for a wattage comparable solution  from Maxon and 
that's assuming you'll find a distributor that will deal with  you.  


ST


On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 11:33:00 AM UTC-4, odyssey...@aol.com  wrote:  
 
i was just looking to see what might be out there in the way of 24 volt  
motors and Maxon popped up. we have used some of their smaller motors  in the 
larger r/c boats and they had plenty of power and never let us  down, so 
when their name popped up, i figure it couldn't hurt any to see  what they 
have..
 
i have no clue as to what they have as they don't just list stuff  easily 
by volts/watts, so if anyone knows what to enter into this page (not  like i 
expect them to actually have anything to offer)
 
_http://www.maxonmotorusa.com/http://www.maxo_ 
(http://www.maxonmotorusa.com/maxon/view/msp/) 
 
chris




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[TANKS] Re: motors......

2014-04-08 Thread TyngTech
Chris, I don't get you Dude!  Your complaining about the shipping from TNC 
and in the next email asking about Maxon motors?  You will pay several 
hundred dollars (per motor) for a wattage comparable solution from Maxon 
and that's assuming you'll find a distributor that will deal with you.

ST


On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 11:33:00 AM UTC-4, odyssey...@aol.com wrote:
>
>  i was just looking to see what might be out there in the way of 24 volt 
> motors and Maxon popped up. we have used some of their smaller motors in 
> the larger r/c boats and they had plenty of power and never let us down, so 
> when their name popped up, i figure it couldn't hurt any to see what they 
> have..
>  
> i have no clue as to what they have as they don't just list stuff easily 
> by volts/watts, so if anyone knows what to enter into this page (not like i 
> expect them to actually have anything to offer)
>  
> http://www.maxonmotorusa.com/maxon/view/msp/
>  
> chris
>

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[TANKS] Re: Motors

2011-03-18 Thread Garnet
Hi  Stewart..  I have 350 watt geared motors.. let me know if you are
interested.
Garnet

On Mar 16, 6:46 pm, MaleRN  wrote:
> Quick question everyone. Looking on Ebay ect for motors to use, do you
> use 12V, or 24V electric motors? Would a scooter/ electric bike motor
> be worth it, the seem to come  with a sprocket to drive a chain,
> thinking that could be useful. Something like this 
> onehttp://cgi.ebay.ca/24-VOLT-280W-ELECTRIC-SCOOTER-Razor-E300-MOTOR-24V...
>
> Thanks
>
> Stewart

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[TANKS] Re: Motors

2011-03-17 Thread Garnet
Hi  I have some motors that are geared and I think 300 watt or more.
I will check and let you know. Garnet

On Mar 16, 6:46 pm, MaleRN  wrote:
> Quick question everyone. Looking on Ebay ect for motors to use, do you
> use 12V, or 24V electric motors? Would a scooter/ electric bike motor
> be worth it, the seem to come  with a sprocket to drive a chain,
> thinking that could be useful. Something like this 
> onehttp://cgi.ebay.ca/24-VOLT-280W-ELECTRIC-SCOOTER-Razor-E300-MOTOR-24V...
>
> Thanks
>
> Stewart

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[TANKS] Re: Motors

2011-03-17 Thread MaleRN
thanks guys for the info


On Mar 17, 11:32 am, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/17/2011 7:17:17 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
>
> elf1...@bellsouth.net writes:
>
> Stewart,
>
> I just installed this type of motor in my tank  model. The 25 pitch
> chain may be a bit difficult to find master links or  even additional
> chain on a local level. You could order this through some  of the
> scooter websites but then you have to wait, pay for shipping and  so
> forth. The motor shaft will be most likely metric, so either a  new
> metric sized sprocket will be needed (9-10 tooth) unless you can  turn
> down the output shaft of the motor. A file will work with the  motor
> turned on but you really need to be careful not to file away too  much.
>
> i had a problem getting links to fit the chains i bought off of ebay  as
> well, i ended up getting a length of chain from Surplus Center and links and  
> had no problems (just make sure you don't by the heavy chain or the links
> won't  work - they are currently out of them, i called and checked...)
>
> Chris,
> _Odyssey  Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html)

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Motors

2011-03-17 Thread OdysseySlipways
 
 
In a message dated 3/17/2011 7:17:17 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
elf1...@bellsouth.net writes:

Stewart,

I just installed this type of motor in my tank  model. The 25 pitch
chain may be a bit difficult to find master links or  even additional
chain on a local level. You could order this through some  of the
scooter websites but then you have to wait, pay for shipping and  so
forth. The motor shaft will be most likely metric, so either a  new
metric sized sprocket will be needed (9-10 tooth) unless you can  turn
down the output shaft of the motor. A file will work with the  motor
turned on but you really need to be careful not to file away too  much.


i had a problem getting links to fit the chains i bought off of ebay  as 
well, i ended up getting a length of chain from Surplus Center and links and  
had no problems (just make sure you don't by the heavy chain or the links 
won't  work - they are currently out of them, i called and checked...)
 
Chris,
_Odyssey  Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) 

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[TANKS] Re: Motors

2011-03-17 Thread Rusty Bates
Stewart,

I just installed this type of motor in my tank model. The 25 pitch
chain may be a bit difficult to find master links or even additional
chain on a local level. You could order this through some of the
scooter websites but then you have to wait, pay for shipping and so
forth. The motor shaft will be most likely metric, so either a new
metric sized sprocket will be needed (9-10 tooth) unless you can turn
down the output shaft of the motor. A file will work with the motor
turned on but you really need to be careful not to file away too much.

I was lucky enough to have two 10:1 gearboxes laying around, but still
I had to turn two couplings on my lathe to connect the motors and
gearboxes. Finally there was the matter of mounting the units onto a
steel plate, again I'm lucky enough to have the equipment to cut and
drill the steel plate.

For my job cost, it was 50 bucks for 2 motors and another 30 bucks for
2 #35 pitch sprockets, the rest I had on hand. I can only highly
encourage to do as others suggest and purchase these units with the
gear boxes already installed. I've seen prices for around 50 to 75
dollars apiece for these
in the past 6 months.

I've been using in the past week a new ESC Sabertooth 2X25, so far so
good. The motors are rated at 300 watts and seem more than capable of
pulling around my tank. In fact the rascal could use a slight gearing
down as the top speed is quite fast. But even then the motors have no
problem pulling the tank up an incline ramp or neutral turns in the
grass so far.



On Mar 17, 12:48 am, Cobra  wrote:
> Personaly I would not recommend any motor that does not have an
> attached gear-down mechanism already on it. If you do, you may end up
> paying more for parts needed to gear them down than of you just bought
> the right ones to begin with. You would also end up with a bulkier
> setup and a ton of unnessecary weight. Check out early examples on the
> first few tanks in the hobby.http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T001/Page3.html
>
> On Mar 16, 9:24 pm, Cobra  wrote:
>
> > Yes electric scooter motors will work.
> > Both 12v and 24v are used, as well as 18v. 24v being the most common.
> > The MO1 (MY1016Z3) motors are the preferred motors today, being 24v
> > 350w.
> > They are already geared down to an ideal speed for tank usage.
> > I use these motors, tho currently only at 12v. This will be changed in
> > the future for higher speeds and more power. :)
>
> > Aaron F
> > T076
> > SCAB
>
> > On Mar 16, 5:58 pm, Tommy Lum  wrote:
>
> > > Search for "MY1016Z3"
>

>

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[TANKS] Re: Motors

2011-03-16 Thread Cobra
Yes electric scooter motors will work.
Both 12v and 24v are used, as well as 18v. 24v being the most common.
The MO1 (MY1016Z3) motors are the preferred motors today, being 24v
350w.
They are already geared down to an ideal speed for tank usage.
I use these motors, tho currently only at 12v. This will be changed in
the future for higher speeds and more power. :)

Aaron F
T076
SCAB

On Mar 16, 5:58 pm, Tommy Lum  wrote:
> Search for "MY1016Z3"
>
> On Mar 16, 2011, at 8:46 PM, MaleRN wrote:
>
>
>
> > Quick question everyone. Looking on Ebay ect for motors to use, do you
> > use 12V, or 24V electric motors? Would a scooter/ electric bike motor
> > be worth it, the seem to come  with a sprocket to drive a chain,
> > thinking that could be useful. Something like this one
> >http://cgi.ebay.ca/24-VOLT-280W-ELECTRIC-SCOOTER-Razor-E300-MOTOR-24V...
>
> > Thanks
>
> > Stewart
>
> > --
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[TANKS] Re: Motors

2011-03-16 Thread Cobra
Personaly I would not recommend any motor that does not have an
attached gear-down mechanism already on it. If you do, you may end up
paying more for parts needed to gear them down than of you just bought
the right ones to begin with. You would also end up with a bulkier
setup and a ton of unnessecary weight. Check out early examples on the
first few tanks in the hobby.
http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T001/Page3.html


On Mar 16, 9:24 pm, Cobra  wrote:
> Yes electric scooter motors will work.
> Both 12v and 24v are used, as well as 18v. 24v being the most common.
> The MO1 (MY1016Z3) motors are the preferred motors today, being 24v
> 350w.
> They are already geared down to an ideal speed for tank usage.
> I use these motors, tho currently only at 12v. This will be changed in
> the future for higher speeds and more power. :)
>
> Aaron F
> T076
> SCAB
>
> On Mar 16, 5:58 pm, Tommy Lum  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Search for "MY1016Z3"
>
> > On Mar 16, 2011, at 8:46 PM, MaleRN wrote:
>
> > > Quick question everyone. Looking on Ebay ect for motors to use, do you
> > > use 12V, or 24V electric motors? Would a scooter/ electric bike motor
> > > be worth it, the seem to come  with a sprocket to drive a chain,
> > > thinking that could be useful. Something like this one
> > >http://cgi.ebay.ca/24-VOLT-280W-ELECTRIC-SCOOTER-Razor-E300-MOTOR-24V...
>
> > > Thanks
>
> > > Stewart
>
> > > --
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[TANKS] Re: Motors For Sale

2010-09-13 Thread Fred Thomson
EV Warriors - Really Fast. (See: 
http://www.enigmaindustries.com/Motors/Bosch_EV_Warrior.htm
)
My1016 - around 2600 rpm
MY1016Z3 2750 geared down to (88:9 reduction) so around 280rpm
Micro Motors about 375 -ish rpm

On Sep 11, 1:36 pm, Loren  wrote:
> What are the RPMs on these, do you know?

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[TANKS] Re: Motors For Sale

2010-09-11 Thread Loren
What are the RPMs on these, do you know?

On Sep 10, 9:33 am, Fred Thomson  wrote:
> We've got...
>
> 6 EV Warriors (2 have mounts)
> 4 MY1016 24v 250w
> 2 MY1016 24v 300w
> 2 MY1016Z3 (Geared) 24v 350w
> 2 Micro Motor EJ47 24v gearhead wheelchair motors.
>
> ...all motors are new except for the Micro Motors.
>
> Cheers,
> Fred

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[TANKS] Re: Motors For Sale

2010-09-10 Thread Fred Thomson
We've got...

6 EV Warriors (2 have mounts)
4 MY1016 24v 250w
2 MY1016 24v 300w
2 MY1016Z3 (Geared) 24v 350w
2 Micro Motor EJ47 24v gearhead wheelchair motors.

...all motors are new except for the Micro Motors.

Cheers,
Fred

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[TANKS] Re: Motors For Sale

2010-09-05 Thread Fred Thomson
Yup, sure do. Sent you an email. :-)

On Sep 4, 11:04 pm, "jackal...@yahoo.com"  wrote:
> Make that geared M01s
>
> On Aug 20, 3:19 pm, Fred Thomson  wrote:
>
> > Garnet and I have a 'few' extras for sale and we thought we give you
> > guys first dibs before they go on ebay.
>
> > 6 EV Warriors (2 have mounts)
> > 4 MY1016 24v 250w
> > 2 MY1016 24v 300w
> > 4 MY1016Z3 (Geared) 24v 350w
> > 2 Micro Motor EJ47 24v gearhead wheelchair motors.
>
> > $40.00 each plus postage.
>
> > Cheers,
> > Fred
>
>

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[TANKS] Re: Motors For Sale

2010-09-05 Thread Fred Thomson
Yup, sure do. Sent you an email.

On Sep 4, 11:04 pm, "jackal...@yahoo.com"  wrote:
> Make that geared M01s
>
> On Aug 20, 3:19 pm, Fred Thomson  wrote:
>
> > Garnet and I have a 'few' extras for sale and we thought we give you
> > guys first dibs before they go on ebay.
>
> > 6 EV Warriors (2 have mounts)
> > 4 MY1016 24v 250w
> > 2 MY1016 24v 300w
> > 4 MY1016Z3 (Geared) 24v 350w
> > 2 Micro Motor EJ47 24v gearhead wheelchair motors.
>
> > $40.00 each plus postage.
>
> > Cheers,
> > Fred
>
>

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[TANKS] Re: Motors For Sale

2010-09-04 Thread jackal...@yahoo.com
Make that geared M01s

On Aug 20, 3:19 pm, Fred Thomson  wrote:
> Garnet and I have a 'few' extras for sale and we thought we give you
> guys first dibs before they go on ebay.
>
> 6 EV Warriors (2 have mounts)
> 4 MY1016 24v 250w
> 2 MY1016 24v 300w
> 4 MY1016Z3 (Geared) 24v 350w
> 2 Micro Motor EJ47 24v gearhead wheelchair motors.
>
> $40.00 each plus postage.
>
> Cheers,
> Fred

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[TANKS] Re: Motors For Sale

2010-09-04 Thread jackal...@yahoo.com
Do you still have any M01 or EV Warrior motors left? i am working on
getting all the parts for my first tank.

On Aug 20, 3:19 pm, Fred Thomson  wrote:
> Garnet and I have a 'few' extras for sale and we thought we give you
> guys first dibs before they go on ebay.
>
> 6 EV Warriors (2 have mounts)
> 4 MY1016 24v 250w
> 2 MY1016 24v 300w
> 4 MY1016Z3 (Geared) 24v 350w
> 2 Micro Motor EJ47 24v gearhead wheelchair motors.
>
> $40.00 each plus postage.
>
> Cheers,
> Fred

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[TANKS] Re: Motors For Sale

2010-08-28 Thread Fred Thomson


I should mention that all the motors are new, unused except for the
EJ47 Micro motors.

-Cheers,
Fred

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[TANKS] Re: Motors For Sale

2010-08-20 Thread Cobra
Ah! I just bought some M01s! Sad day.

Aaron F
SCAB

On Aug 20, 12:19 pm, Fred Thomson  wrote:
> Garnet and I have a 'few' extras for sale and we thought we give you
> guys first dibs before they go on ebay.
>
> 6 EV Warriors (2 have mounts)
> 4 MY1016 24v 250w
> 2 MY1016 24v 300w
> 4 MY1016Z3 (Geared) 24v 350w
> 2 Micro Motor EJ47 24v gearhead wheelchair motors.
>
> $40.00 each plus postage.
>
> Cheers,
> Fred

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Re: [TANKS] Re: motors dimensions

2010-06-22 Thread Susan Gutbrodt
Check the links page, places like the Surplus joint or McMaster's might have 
them... Also check local like Bearing, Belt & Chain or McFadden Dale 
Also I'll see what I have in the "Alliance Surplus Store".


Kurt

- Original Message - 
From: "Cobra9431" 

To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 8:37 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: motors dimensions



Where can I find sprockets with set screws for my drive axles? prefer
the same 9 tooth 1/2"x1/8" as on the motors themselves.

Aaron F

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[TANKS] Re: motors dimensions

2010-06-18 Thread Cobra9431
Where can I find sprockets with set screws for my drive axles? prefer
the same 9 tooth 1/2"x1/8" as on the motors themselves.

Aaron F

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RE: [TANKS] Re: motors dimensions

2010-06-18 Thread Ben Holko
You can convert one to face the other way if it makes mounting easier, see this:

http://www.anvilus.com/motor01_LH_RH.txt

Theoretically they will turn at a fraction of a difference in speed as one 
motor goes in "forwards" and one goes in "reverse", but in practice this does 
not detract from the tank going in a straight line - at least not my for Tiger 
which has one motor converted as described above.

Ben


-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Cobra9431
Sent: Saturday, 19 June 2010 6:32 AM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: [TANKS] Re: motors dimensions

alright, I've decided on the 24v 350w motor. Now I need to ask if forward and 
reverse runs at the same speeds. Can they be placed one facing left and one 
right without a difference in RPMs or do they both need to face the same way?

Aaron F

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[TANKS] Re: motors dimensions

2010-06-18 Thread Cobra9431
alright, I've decided on the 24v 350w motor. Now I need to ask if
forward and reverse runs at the same speeds. Can they be placed one
facing left and one right without a difference in RPMs or do they both
need to face the same way?

Aaron F

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[TANKS] Re: motors dimensions

2010-06-17 Thread Cobra9431
thanks, that helps alot. All the specs I could want for the350w, but
if any one has more info on the 450w, that may help.
Thanks again.

Aaron F

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[TANKS] Re: motors dimensions

2010-06-17 Thread Steve Tyng
I have these modeled in 3D and can provide a file if that would help.

http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat/browse_thread/thread/9977d3abe8a35380/c6f52ebd5c766d7a?hl=en&lnk=gst&q=tyng+m1+motor#c6f52ebd5c766d7a


Steve Tyng



On Jun 16, 3:13 pm, Cobra9431  wrote:
> I have limited space in my Sherman and am trying to find the physical
> dimensions of these motors as to choose which to  
> use.http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=106115 (24v 350w)
> andhttp://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=106118 (24v 450w)
> the web site has limited info on thier actual size. If any one has
> them and can help me out, I need to find their overall length, casing
> length, and casing diameter. Any other relevent info may also be
> included, but that is the main points I need.
> Any help would be great. Thanks
>
> Aaron F

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[TANKS] Re: motors dimensions

2010-06-17 Thread Fred Thomson
Hi,

 Here's a link to Joe Summer's site which has the dimension's of the
M01 motors.

http://www.anvilus.com/motor01_dwg.gif

Cheers,
Fred

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[TANKS] Re: motors dimensions

2010-06-17 Thread Chris. b
It cheaper to buy from USA then AUS. I buy all my stuff from the US
for half the price, provided the dollar is hittin 95+

Chris. b

On Jun 17, 12:45 pm, Cobra9431  wrote:
> I bow to your dedication to the arts of RC Tanking, Master Holko. May
> the Panzer Zen reward and bless you with enlightenment and full skid
> turning capability. And thanks for the help as well.
>
> Aaron "The cheap stuff" F.

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[TANKS] Re: motors dimensions

2010-06-16 Thread Cobra9431
I bow to your dedication to the arts of RC Tanking, Master Holko. May
the Panzer Zen reward and bless you with enlightenment and full skid
turning capability. And thanks for the help as well.

Aaron "The cheap stuff" F.

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RE: [TANKS] Re: motors dimensions

2010-06-16 Thread Ben Holko
the part number is supplier specific no ignore that, the price is more than 
double because down here in AU we are privileged to provide more folding stuff 
for the same product. And we're closer to China too.



From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf 
of Cobra9431 [afreem...@live.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 1:31 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: [TANKS] Re: motors dimensions

Are these the same 450 watt motors? They look it, but have diff part
numbers. And the price is more than 2X that of the other.

Aaron F



On Jun 16, 8:05 pm, Ben Holko  wrote:
> http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//product_info.php?cPath=53&produc...
>
> I believe the 450w version and the 250w version are the same size, in which 
> case look at this:
>
> http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//product_info.php?products_id=192...
>
> http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com/files/SC250G.pdf
>
> Note: I can not categorically say 250/450 are the same chassis, its just what 
> I have heard.
>
> If no-one else chimes in with the 350w dimensions I can get them for you in 
> the next couple of days.
>
> Ben

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[TANKS] Re: motors dimensions

2010-06-16 Thread Cobra9431
Are these the same 450 watt motors? They look it, but have diff part
numbers. And the price is more than 2X that of the other.

Aaron F



On Jun 16, 8:05 pm, Ben Holko  wrote:
> http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//product_info.php?cPath=53&produc...
>
> I believe the 450w version and the 250w version are the same size, in which 
> case look at this:
>
> http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//product_info.php?products_id=192...
>
> http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com/files/SC250G.pdf
>
> Note: I can not categorically say 250/450 are the same chassis, its just what 
> I have heard.
>
> If no-one else chimes in with the 350w dimensions I can get them for you in 
> the next couple of days.
>
> Ben

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[TANKS] Re: motors dimensions

2010-06-16 Thread Cobra9431
yeah, I thought of you first and started writing an email, but then
realized that continents seperate the machines and the man. anyone
else tho.

Aaron F

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[TANKS] Re: motors for beginers

2009-10-02 Thread OdysseySlipways
 
 
In a message dated 10/3/2009 12:30:11 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
kamd...@gmail.com writes:

What would be a good motor set for a beginner?  I would like to  know the 
price?
I would also would like to know where to find  them?



i think part of that would depend on your building skills.
 
you could spend a few extra dollars and buy a set of motors that  are 
geared down all ready and just have to be bolted down into your tank.
 
or if you think that is too much, you could buy just a set of  reversible 
scooter motors and build your own set of trany's either using  belts/pulleys 
or chain/sprockets. (but this may be as much if not more costly as  just 
buying the geared motors)
 
i think a few have even used angled drill's and just chucking them onto the 
 drive axles.
 
then there are the kiddy car motor and gear set-ups. (have heard they are  
pretty slow)
 
i can't think of any other types of motor arrangements to choose  from.
 
if you can find them at a affordable price, i'd say go with the geared  
motors like the M-01's (or what ever some of these guys in here use) as it's 
one  less thing to fiddle with in your first build
 
Chris,
_Odyssey  Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) 

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[TANKS] Re: motors required

2009-07-31 Thread funkyneroc

Fantastic Joe , will do .




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[TANKS] Re: motors required

2009-07-30 Thread Joe Sommer


On Jul 26, 12:46 pm, neroc  wrote:
> I require a pair of motor gearboxes for To57 . I am thinking of
> something similar to drill motors that Chrys Cane has used in his
> Dingo , I am thinking maybe 18v , something like 400rpm and at least
> 200w . Does anybody know of such items that they would recommend ?

I have two extra DeWalt DW960 right angle drill motors (18V, 500 rpm,
310 in.lbf stall torque) that I can sell.

Please contact me with "Reply to author" if interested.

Joe
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[TANKS] Re motors

2009-01-30 Thread james

Hi Chris B

thanks for the reply.

Q who's Joe
And how much where the motors.
James
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[TANKS] Re: motors

2009-01-24 Thread Chris. b

I got my motors from Joe over in the states. I'm sure there would be
someone selling them in Aus, but hey, joes prices are good and I'd
rather the money go to someone in the hobby...

I use RS80D speed controllers, pretty good controller, fairly cheap
80amps each channel...

Chris. b

On Jan 25, 2:43 pm, james  wrote:
> Hi
>
> Well My tanks are progressing slowy
>
> While I have been saving for the fiberglass matrials.t34-85&su100
>
> I've started My KV1 & jadgpanther.
>
> The Top and bottoms have had there coat of resin today.
>
> But I'm stuck on what motors to use.
>
> The first jadgpanther had 12vdrill motors.
>
> Chris B
> Where did you get your motors for Your KV1
>
> Did you get them hear in aus or did you have to send away overseas.
>
> Could you tell me about the speed controls your using.
>
> I got the gelflex molding last week.
>
> It was to expensive from england post was $ 59 but the gelflex was $50
> for 2kelos
>
> I found it hear in oz at bankstown 3kelos for $90 plus $12 post
>
> I'm looking forewould to trying it.
>
> It would be good for you as you make molds.
> because you can use it again for knew ones.
> I found out about on the scale tanks site Dave who made the
> sherman.used it.
> James
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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-31 Thread Chris Malton

Manicured lawns are somewhat easier to find at the moment.  Anyway, it's 
not a lawn, it's a rugby field..  It just hasn't been that churned 
up when we've been there.

HOWEVER. the next UK battle may well be on a paintball site, and 
therefore anything is possible!

Also, Happy New Year to everyone!

Chris

On 01/01/2009 07:19, Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos wrote:
> Hah! you should run on the battlefields I am running.  Hence the use of
> steel track pads, NiCad and occasionally LiPo batteries.
> Chrys
>
>
>
>> Chris,
>>
>> On those manicured lawns you UK guys call battlefields, I'll probably
>> go a whole hour on a set of batteries!
>
>
>
> >



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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-31 Thread Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos

Hah! you should run on the battlefields I am running.  Hence the use of
steel track pads, NiCad and occasionally LiPo batteries.
Chrys



>
> Chris,
>
> On those manicured lawns you UK guys call battlefields, I'll probably
> go a whole hour on a set of batteries!



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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-31 Thread Crooks, Steven M

But, other than that it's a great idea right?


Far as I can see a large heavy tank is going to need lots of battery.
Batteries aren't cheap, neither are generators,
So I guess we are FUBAR'ed.

Except for a large, fixed gun


-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 2:34 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Motors!!!


Crooks, Steven M wrote:
> Why not buy a generator?
> At your base, the generator recharges your batteries,
> meaning two sets should do it.

Nice concept, but the economics don't work yet:

- Standard lead-acid batteries are the cheapest of all other batteries, 
but they *cannot* be charged quickly, so unless lunch lasts about 6 
hours, you'll need multiple sets of batteries.

- You can buy more advanced lead-acid batteries that *can* be charged 
quickly, but they cost 2-4 times more than standard batteries, so by the

time you add in the cost of the generator and fuel, you've exceeded the 
cost of buying multiple sets.

- You can switch to NiCad or LI batteries, which are made to be quick 
charged (and which also save lots of weight, thereby reducing the amount

of batteries needed in th first place), but they cost even more than 
advanced lead-acid so the short-term numbers don't work.

- NiCad and LI batteries have some definite advantages over SLA (they 
can be depleted to zero without damaging the cells and they have a 
longer lifetime).  But, just like SLA batteries, they are only as good 
as their weakest cell, so you have to check individual cells 
periodically to find the bad ones and there are lots of cells to be 
checked.  Electric cars are starting to incorporate very advanced 
monitoring gear to find bad cells and work around them.

The holy grail in this hobby is a reliable source of surplus large NiCad

cells.  Less weight, reasonable cost, high-amp draw and quick charging 
capability.  But, until that is found, multiple sets of SLA batteries is

the cheapest (and most eco-friendly) way to go.

Frank P.








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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-31 Thread Thomas Lum


On Dec 31, 2008, at 3:34 PM, Frank Pittelli wrote:

> so unless lunch lasts about 6
> hours, you'll need multiple sets of batteries.


I am all for a 6 hour lunch, with some Belgian beer and French cheese!

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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-31 Thread Frank Pittelli

Crooks, Steven M wrote:
> Why not buy a generator?
> At your base, the generator recharges your batteries,
> meaning two sets should do it.

Nice concept, but the economics don't work yet:

- Standard lead-acid batteries are the cheapest of all other batteries, 
but they *cannot* be charged quickly, so unless lunch lasts about 6 
hours, you'll need multiple sets of batteries.

- You can buy more advanced lead-acid batteries that *can* be charged 
quickly, but they cost 2-4 times more than standard batteries, so by the 
time you add in the cost of the generator and fuel, you've exceeded the 
cost of buying multiple sets.

- You can switch to NiCad or LI batteries, which are made to be quick 
charged (and which also save lots of weight, thereby reducing the amount 
of batteries needed in th first place), but they cost even more than 
advanced lead-acid so the short-term numbers don't work.

- NiCad and LI batteries have some definite advantages over SLA (they 
can be depleted to zero without damaging the cells and they have a 
longer lifetime).  But, just like SLA batteries, they are only as good 
as their weakest cell, so you have to check individual cells 
periodically to find the bad ones and there are lots of cells to be 
checked.  Electric cars are starting to incorporate very advanced 
monitoring gear to find bad cells and work around them.

The holy grail in this hobby is a reliable source of surplus large NiCad 
cells.  Less weight, reasonable cost, high-amp draw and quick charging 
capability.  But, until that is found, multiple sets of SLA batteries is 
the cheapest (and most eco-friendly) way to go.

Frank P.

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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-31 Thread Steve Tyng

Chris,

On those manicured lawns you UK guys call battlefields, I'll probably
go a whole hour on a set of batteries!

But if/when I ever do make it across the pond to battle, I'll make
sure I'll do that Lithium battery upgrade so I can chase you from one
end of that island to the other (of course stopping at any convenient
pub along the way).  Once I grow bored with British beer I'll ride the
Cromwell through the Chunnel (Frances greatest technical contribution
to the modern world), turn north and stock up on Belgium beer on my
way to Amsterdam to say hey to Marc and the other TNT folks!  After
battling with TNT me and the dutch dudes will retire to a convenient
coffee shop and while enjoying the many natural libations that
Amsterdam is famous for, will take even greater pleasure in
disparaging the UK tankers (all in jest of course ;-)!  Later that
evening I/we may drift over to some of the more "exotic" parts of the
city to take part of those physical libations that Amsterdam is even
more famous for!

Have a happy New Years!:-)


Steve Tyng








On Dec 31, 1:52 pm, Chris Malton  wrote:
> I'm not forking out for your 6 sets of batteries if/when you make it
> over here just to have 2 hours battle time.  And you're on 24V aren't
> you?  So that's doubly expensive.  Mine will run off 1 battery for over
> an hour - I call that value for money.
>
> Chris
>
> On 31/12/2008 18:47, Steve Tyng wrote:
>
> > Frank wrote:
>
> >> Basically, our
> >> tanks need 500+ watts of power to turn properly and KCMs simply don't
> >> have that much power.
>
> > On the other side of the coin I'm pushing 1,800 watts in the
> > Cromwell.  Sure it gives me speed and I can dig a hole to China by
> > spinning in place but the downsides are many.  I change batteries
> > every 20 minutes of runtime on average and I need a good commercial
> > quality speed controller (which is expensive to replace when they
> > inevitably fail).  The M01 motors are the way to go.  Someday I may
> > downgrade to them, or better, bite the bullet and go Lithium!
>
> > Steve "Four Foot" Tyng
>
>
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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-31 Thread Crooks, Steven M

Why not buy a generator?
At yiour base, the generator recharges your batteries,
meaning two sets should do it.


Steven C.

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Doug Conn
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 1:16 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Motors!!!


>> I call that value for money

I call it "pining for fantasyland".

Unless by "run" you mean "sit there" or your "one battery" is 36v 800Ah.

The original kiddie cars that used those same motors would not come
close to
an hours use on one battery. Your tank will be most probably be heavier
and
much less efficient than a plastic wheeled vehicle carrying a toddler.

- Doug


-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Chris Malton
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 1:53 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Motors!!!


I'm not forking out for your 6 sets of batteries if/when you make it 
over here just to have 2 hours battle time.  And you're on 24V aren't 
you?  So that's doubly expensive.  Mine will run off 1 battery for over 
an hour - I call that value for money.

Chris

On 31/12/2008 18:47, Steve Tyng wrote:
> Frank wrote:
>
>> Basically, our
>> tanks need 500+ watts of power to turn properly and KCMs simply don't
>> have that much power.
>
> On the other side of the coin I'm pushing 1,800 watts in the
> Cromwell.  Sure it gives me speed and I can dig a hole to China by
> spinning in place but the downsides are many.  I change batteries
> every 20 minutes of runtime on average and I need a good commercial
> quality speed controller (which is expensive to replace when they
> inevitably fail).  The M01 motors are the way to go.  Someday I may
> downgrade to them, or better, bite the bullet and go Lithium!
>
> Steve "Four Foot" Tyng
>
>
> >












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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-31 Thread Doug Conn

>> I call that value for money

I call it "pining for fantasyland".

Unless by "run" you mean "sit there" or your "one battery" is 36v 800Ah.

The original kiddie cars that used those same motors would not come close to
an hours use on one battery. Your tank will be most probably be heavier and
much less efficient than a plastic wheeled vehicle carrying a toddler.

- Doug


-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Chris Malton
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 1:53 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Motors!!!


I'm not forking out for your 6 sets of batteries if/when you make it 
over here just to have 2 hours battle time.  And you're on 24V aren't 
you?  So that's doubly expensive.  Mine will run off 1 battery for over 
an hour - I call that value for money.

Chris

On 31/12/2008 18:47, Steve Tyng wrote:
> Frank wrote:
>
>> Basically, our
>> tanks need 500+ watts of power to turn properly and KCMs simply don't
>> have that much power.
>
> On the other side of the coin I'm pushing 1,800 watts in the
> Cromwell.  Sure it gives me speed and I can dig a hole to China by
> spinning in place but the downsides are many.  I change batteries
> every 20 minutes of runtime on average and I need a good commercial
> quality speed controller (which is expensive to replace when they
> inevitably fail).  The M01 motors are the way to go.  Someday I may
> downgrade to them, or better, bite the bullet and go Lithium!
>
> Steve "Four Foot" Tyng
>
>
> >





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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-31 Thread Chris Malton

I'm not forking out for your 6 sets of batteries if/when you make it 
over here just to have 2 hours battle time.  And you're on 24V aren't 
you?  So that's doubly expensive.  Mine will run off 1 battery for over 
an hour - I call that value for money.

Chris

On 31/12/2008 18:47, Steve Tyng wrote:
> Frank wrote:
>
>> Basically, our
>> tanks need 500+ watts of power to turn properly and KCMs simply don't
>> have that much power.
>
> On the other side of the coin I'm pushing 1,800 watts in the
> Cromwell.  Sure it gives me speed and I can dig a hole to China by
> spinning in place but the downsides are many.  I change batteries
> every 20 minutes of runtime on average and I need a good commercial
> quality speed controller (which is expensive to replace when they
> inevitably fail).  The M01 motors are the way to go.  Someday I may
> downgrade to them, or better, bite the bullet and go Lithium!
>
> Steve "Four Foot" Tyng
>
>
> >



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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-31 Thread Steve Tyng

Frank wrote:

> Basically, our
> tanks need 500+ watts of power to turn properly and KCMs simply don't
> have that much power.

On the other side of the coin I'm pushing 1,800 watts in the
Cromwell.  Sure it gives me speed and I can dig a hole to China by
spinning in place but the downsides are many.  I change batteries
every 20 minutes of runtime on average and I need a good commercial
quality speed controller (which is expensive to replace when they
inevitably fail).  The M01 motors are the way to go.  Someday I may
downgrade to them, or better, bite the bullet and go Lithium!

Steve "Four Foot" Tyng


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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-31 Thread Frank Pittelli

Doug Conn wrote:
>>> we can now make a #35 sprocket that mounts on the 4mm M01 keyed axle,
> 
> That's great ! How do you do that ? Can you make an even beefier sprocket ?
> Even the #35 seems a little light.

For the essential tooling, I bought a 4mm key-way broach and an 11mm 
drill bit (easy part), then made a custom broach collar to fit an 11mm 
bore (harder part).  Unfortunately, nobody seems to make/sell such a 
collar, so I had to make it myself.  The tricky part about the collar is 
that very little material is left in the 11mm rod after milling out the 
slot needed by the 4mm broach.  Time, repeated measuring and some 
hand-filing did the trick.

To make a sprocket:

1) Buy a #35 "plain" drive sprocket (3/8" bore) with the desired number 
of teeth

2) Re-bore the sprocket to 11mm (lathe)

3) Cut off the excess sprocket hub to reduce the thickness of the 
sprocket to fit the mounting shaft/nut (hacksaw / milling machine)

4) Use the broach and collar to cut the keyway (arbor press)

The whole process takes less than 15 minutes per sprocket, with Step 3 
taking most of the time.  (I need to make a small cutoff jig for my 
angle grinder to eliminate the time-consuming hacksaw step ... but 
that's on "the list" ;-)

 > Can you make an even beefier sprocket ?
 > Even the #35 seems a little light.

In *theory*, the same process could be used for #40 sprockets, but you'd 
have to find a plain #40 with a 3/8" bore.  All of the #40 sprockets 
that I've found have a 1/2" bore, which is too big.

As far as #35 "seeming" to be light ... I'll let Joe speak to the 
breaking strength of #35 chain and sprockets.  Personally, I think that 
they can handle *one heck of a load* :-)

Frank P.

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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-31 Thread Doug Conn

>>we can now make a #35 sprocket that mounts on the 4mm M01 keyed axle,
thereby allowing you to use #35 chain and a #35 sprocket on the drive axle.

That's great ! How do you do that ? Can you make an even beefier sprocket ?
Even the #35 seems a little light.

- Doug


-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 12:30 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Motors!!!


Modena wrote:
 > so with the reduction gear are they turning the wheel at engine output
 > shaft speed? no gearing required?

You can change the gear ratio between the M01 and the drive shaft to 
suit your purposes.  A 1:1 ratio works just fine, providing speed at the 
higher end of the spectrum for a lightweight tank.  Personally, I use an 
11:15 ratio in the Tiger to increase turning power and reduce battery 
consumption.  The Tiger still moves faster than it did with EV Warriors 
at 12v, so I may increase the ratio a little more for the coming 
battling season.  Just remember: "Better turning kills others, higher 
speed kills you".

Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
> Mine are mated to an 11T #41 sprocket on a 3/4" drive shaft using #41
> chain.

If you can't find #41 sprockets or chain for the drive axle (I was never 
able to find the right combination), we can now make a #35 sprocket that 
mounts on the 4mm M01 keyed axle, thereby allowing you to use #35 chain 
and a #35 sprocket on the drive axle.

Frank P.





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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-31 Thread Frank Pittelli

Modena wrote:
 > so with the reduction gear are they turning the wheel at engine output
 > shaft speed? no gearing required?

You can change the gear ratio between the M01 and the drive shaft to 
suit your purposes.  A 1:1 ratio works just fine, providing speed at the 
higher end of the spectrum for a lightweight tank.  Personally, I use an 
11:15 ratio in the Tiger to increase turning power and reduce battery 
consumption.  The Tiger still moves faster than it did with EV Warriors 
at 12v, so I may increase the ratio a little more for the coming 
battling season.  Just remember: "Better turning kills others, higher 
speed kills you".

Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
> Mine are mated to an 11T #41 sprocket on a 3/4" drive shaft using #41
> chain.

If you can't find #41 sprockets or chain for the drive axle (I was never 
able to find the right combination), we can now make a #35 sprocket that 
mounts on the 4mm M01 keyed axle, thereby allowing you to use #35 chain 
and a #35 sprocket on the drive axle.

Frank P.



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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Derek Engelhaupt

>From the Anvilus.com website:

24VDC reversible - 350W - 9.8 speed reducer - weight 6.1 lbs
385 rpm CCW no load, 1.5A - 375 rpm CW no load, 1.4A - 445 in.lbf stall at 103A
includes 9T #42 sprocket for bicycle roller chain
11mm DIA shaft, 18mm total length, 9mm threaded length, 4mm key

Mine are mated to an 11T #41 sprocket on a 3/4" drive shaft using #41
chain.  I couldn't find a 3/4" bore 9 tooth sprocket so I went with an
11 tooth.  Therefore there is a slight reduction in speed, but it is
still plenty fast.  Not Cromwell fast, but decently fast for a 100lb.
tank.

Derek



On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 9:35 PM, Modena  wrote:
>
> very appealing, much better than wasting money on drills which I have
> to butcher to get mounted
>
> so with the reduction gear are they turning the wheel at engine output
> shaft speed? no gearing required?
>
>
> On Dec 31, 12:06 pm, "Chris. b"  wrote:
>> ^thats the ones, I get them from there. You might pay a little more
>> for these but you have to remember they come with a reduction gear
>> already built in, so they are ready to go, no more big, heavy,
>> expensive reduction setups...
>>
>> Chris. b
>>
>> On Dec 31, 10:43 am, Modena  wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> > are these the ones?http://www.anvilus.com/motor01.html
>>
>> > where do you get them?
>>
>> > On Dec 31, 11:39 am, "Chris. b"  wrote:
>>
>> > > ^I can second that. You will not find a motor better suited to RC
>> > > tanks at that price. It's not like they draw huge amps either.
>>
>> > > Chris. b
>>
>> > > On Dec 31, 10:16 am, Frank Pittelli  wrote:
>>
>> > > > Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
>> > > > > Is that a 500W combined power rating Frank, are you saying Joe's
>> > > > > motors don't have enough power at 300W/each?  Just kidding.
>>
>> > > > Yes, that's the "combined" minimum power required to perform well on 
>> > > > the
>> > > > battlefield.  In other words, you should use "two" motors which have at
>> > > > least 250 watts of power "each".
>>
>> > > > Of course, these are my own "seat of the pants" values used when
>> > > > searching the Internet for motors.  If it says 250 watts or more, I 
>> > > > give
>> > > > it a closer look.  At that point, the "Rule of Fours" can be used to
>> > > > make the final determination, but it's sometimes hard to track down the
>> > > > various specifications for a given motor.
>>
>> > > > On the other hand, I am *very* satisfied with the M01 scooter motors 
>> > > > and
>> > > > don't plan on using any other motors for new vehicles.  So, my current
>> > > > selection criteria is even simpler - "Buy M01 motors".
>>
>> > > > Frank P.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
> >
>

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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Derek Engelhaupt

I was just pullin Frank's chain.  I knew he had the M-01 motors in his
tank.  I have them too.  Great motors at any price from Joe.  It has
been said before, but if you buy them make sure they are VERY securely
mounted.  They have broken more than one mounting setup with their
torque.

Derek

On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 7:06 PM, Chris. b  wrote:
>
> ^thats the ones, I get them from there. You might pay a little more
> for these but you have to remember they come with a reduction gear
> already built in, so they are ready to go, no more big, heavy,
> expensive reduction setups...
>
> Chris. b
>
> On Dec 31, 10:43 am, Modena  wrote:
>> are these the ones?http://www.anvilus.com/motor01.html
>>
>> where do you get them?
>>
>> On Dec 31, 11:39 am, "Chris. b"  wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> > ^I can second that. You will not find a motor better suited to RC
>> > tanks at that price. It's not like they draw huge amps either.
>>
>> > Chris. b
>>
>> > On Dec 31, 10:16 am, Frank Pittelli  wrote:
>>
>> > > Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
>> > > > Is that a 500W combined power rating Frank, are you saying Joe's
>> > > > motors don't have enough power at 300W/each?  Just kidding.
>>
>> > > Yes, that's the "combined" minimum power required to perform well on the
>> > > battlefield.  In other words, you should use "two" motors which have at
>> > > least 250 watts of power "each".
>>
>> > > Of course, these are my own "seat of the pants" values used when
>> > > searching the Internet for motors.  If it says 250 watts or more, I give
>> > > it a closer look.  At that point, the "Rule of Fours" can be used to
>> > > make the final determination, but it's sometimes hard to track down the
>> > > various specifications for a given motor.
>>
>> > > On the other hand, I am *very* satisfied with the M01 scooter motors and
>> > > don't plan on using any other motors for new vehicles.  So, my current
>> > > selection criteria is even simpler - "Buy M01 motors".
>>
>> > > Frank P.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
> >
>

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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Modena

very appealing, much better than wasting money on drills which I have
to butcher to get mounted

so with the reduction gear are they turning the wheel at engine output
shaft speed? no gearing required?


On Dec 31, 12:06 pm, "Chris. b"  wrote:
> ^thats the ones, I get them from there. You might pay a little more
> for these but you have to remember they come with a reduction gear
> already built in, so they are ready to go, no more big, heavy,
> expensive reduction setups...
>
> Chris. b
>
> On Dec 31, 10:43 am, Modena  wrote:
>
>
>
> > are these the ones?http://www.anvilus.com/motor01.html
>
> > where do you get them?
>
> > On Dec 31, 11:39 am, "Chris. b"  wrote:
>
> > > ^I can second that. You will not find a motor better suited to RC
> > > tanks at that price. It's not like they draw huge amps either.
>
> > > Chris. b
>
> > > On Dec 31, 10:16 am, Frank Pittelli  wrote:
>
> > > > Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
> > > > > Is that a 500W combined power rating Frank, are you saying Joe's
> > > > > motors don't have enough power at 300W/each?  Just kidding.
>
> > > > Yes, that's the "combined" minimum power required to perform well on the
> > > > battlefield.  In other words, you should use "two" motors which have at
> > > > least 250 watts of power "each".
>
> > > > Of course, these are my own "seat of the pants" values used when
> > > > searching the Internet for motors.  If it says 250 watts or more, I give
> > > > it a closer look.  At that point, the "Rule of Fours" can be used to
> > > > make the final determination, but it's sometimes hard to track down the
> > > > various specifications for a given motor.
>
> > > > On the other hand, I am *very* satisfied with the M01 scooter motors and
> > > > don't plan on using any other motors for new vehicles.  So, my current
> > > > selection criteria is even simpler - "Buy M01 motors".
>
> > > >         Frank P.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Chris. b

^thats the ones, I get them from there. You might pay a little more
for these but you have to remember they come with a reduction gear
already built in, so they are ready to go, no more big, heavy,
expensive reduction setups...

Chris. b

On Dec 31, 10:43 am, Modena  wrote:
> are these the ones?http://www.anvilus.com/motor01.html
>
> where do you get them?
>
> On Dec 31, 11:39 am, "Chris. b"  wrote:
>
>
>
> > ^I can second that. You will not find a motor better suited to RC
> > tanks at that price. It's not like they draw huge amps either.
>
> > Chris. b
>
> > On Dec 31, 10:16 am, Frank Pittelli  wrote:
>
> > > Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
> > > > Is that a 500W combined power rating Frank, are you saying Joe's
> > > > motors don't have enough power at 300W/each?  Just kidding.
>
> > > Yes, that's the "combined" minimum power required to perform well on the
> > > battlefield.  In other words, you should use "two" motors which have at
> > > least 250 watts of power "each".
>
> > > Of course, these are my own "seat of the pants" values used when
> > > searching the Internet for motors.  If it says 250 watts or more, I give
> > > it a closer look.  At that point, the "Rule of Fours" can be used to
> > > make the final determination, but it's sometimes hard to track down the
> > > various specifications for a given motor.
>
> > > On the other hand, I am *very* satisfied with the M01 scooter motors and
> > > don't plan on using any other motors for new vehicles.  So, my current
> > > selection criteria is even simpler - "Buy M01 motors".
>
> > >         Frank P.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Modena

are these the ones?
http://www.anvilus.com/motor01.html

where do you get them?


On Dec 31, 11:39 am, "Chris. b"  wrote:
> ^I can second that. You will not find a motor better suited to RC
> tanks at that price. It's not like they draw huge amps either.
>
> Chris. b
>
> On Dec 31, 10:16 am, Frank Pittelli  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
> > > Is that a 500W combined power rating Frank, are you saying Joe's
> > > motors don't have enough power at 300W/each?  Just kidding.
>
> > Yes, that's the "combined" minimum power required to perform well on the
> > battlefield.  In other words, you should use "two" motors which have at
> > least 250 watts of power "each".
>
> > Of course, these are my own "seat of the pants" values used when
> > searching the Internet for motors.  If it says 250 watts or more, I give
> > it a closer look.  At that point, the "Rule of Fours" can be used to
> > make the final determination, but it's sometimes hard to track down the
> > various specifications for a given motor.
>
> > On the other hand, I am *very* satisfied with the M01 scooter motors and
> > don't plan on using any other motors for new vehicles.  So, my current
> > selection criteria is even simpler - "Buy M01 motors".
>
> >         Frank P.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Chris. b

^I can second that. You will not find a motor better suited to RC
tanks at that price. It's not like they draw huge amps either.

Chris. b

On Dec 31, 10:16 am, Frank Pittelli  wrote:
> Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
> > Is that a 500W combined power rating Frank, are you saying Joe's
> > motors don't have enough power at 300W/each?  Just kidding.
>
> Yes, that's the "combined" minimum power required to perform well on the
> battlefield.  In other words, you should use "two" motors which have at
> least 250 watts of power "each".
>
> Of course, these are my own "seat of the pants" values used when
> searching the Internet for motors.  If it says 250 watts or more, I give
> it a closer look.  At that point, the "Rule of Fours" can be used to
> make the final determination, but it's sometimes hard to track down the
> various specifications for a given motor.
>
> On the other hand, I am *very* satisfied with the M01 scooter motors and
> don't plan on using any other motors for new vehicles.  So, my current
> selection criteria is even simpler - "Buy M01 motors".
>
>         Frank P.
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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Frank Pittelli

Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
> Is that a 500W combined power rating Frank, are you saying Joe's
> motors don't have enough power at 300W/each?  Just kidding.

Yes, that's the "combined" minimum power required to perform well on the 
battlefield.  In other words, you should use "two" motors which have at 
least 250 watts of power "each".

Of course, these are my own "seat of the pants" values used when 
searching the Internet for motors.  If it says 250 watts or more, I give 
it a closer look.  At that point, the "Rule of Fours" can be used to 
make the final determination, but it's sometimes hard to track down the 
various specifications for a given motor.

On the other hand, I am *very* satisfied with the M01 scooter motors and 
don't plan on using any other motors for new vehicles.  So, my current 
selection criteria is even simpler - "Buy M01 motors".

Frank P.

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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Derek Engelhaupt

> Basically, our
> tanks need 500+ watts of power to turn properly and KCMs simply don't
> have that much power.  There simply isn't enough mass in the magnets and
> coils to convert enough battery   (Dr. Sommer can provide the exact
> technical terms and values if you'd like more details on the subject.)
>
>Frank P.
>

Is that a 500W combined power rating Frank, are you saying Joe's
motors don't have enough power at 300W/each?  Just kidding.

Derek

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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Chris Malton

Sounds a bit like one of our UK couriers with "next day" delivery.

Their tracking website says something along these lines: "Tracking 
information may take up to 24 hours to be processed".  Frequently, the 
tracing system doesn't show anything until it's been delivered.  Sounds 
a bit like USPS.

Perhaps we ought to stage an invasion?

Chris

On 30/12/2008 18:59, Frank Pittelli wrote:
> Chris Malton wrote:
>> Incidentally, I see USPS tells me my C6C hasn't YET been shipped, or is
>> that their systems being slow to update?  I'm expecting it to take a few
>> weeks, given past experience with USPS to the UK, but that may have been
>> a different service.
>
> Although our empire is vast, we haven't yet taken control of the USPS,
> so you'll have to suffer along with millions of others.  It seems that
> they don't update the shipping status until sometime *after* it arrives
> at the destination ;-)
>
> I send all international shipments via USPS Priority Mail which should
> take 6-10 days to most corners of the globe.
>
>   Frank P.
>
>
> >



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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Frank Pittelli

Chris Malton wrote:
> Incidentally, I see USPS tells me my C6C hasn't YET been shipped, or is 
> that their systems being slow to update?  I'm expecting it to take a few 
> weeks, given past experience with USPS to the UK, but that may have been 
> a different service.

Although our empire is vast, we haven't yet taken control of the USPS, 
so you'll have to suffer along with millions of others.  It seems that 
they don't update the shipping status until sometime *after* it arrives 
at the destination ;-)

I send all international shipments via USPS Priority Mail which should 
take 6-10 days to most corners of the globe.

Frank P.


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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Chris Malton

Frank,
You input most appreciated.  However, for the UK armoury, the results 
are seeming quite good!  T027, and T055, both of Funky Tank Foundry 
origin have proved themselves very reliable as far as I am concerned. 
For a newbie, and first tank, I think KCMs is justifiable.  If they turn 
out to be completely rubbish for tank power, I'll reuse them somewhere else.

For the moment I will remain optimistic, though.  I reckon they'll do 
the job.  Remember I am doing this on a somewhat already VERY stretched 
budget, and I'm somewhat ahead of schedule.  The other problem is that 
450W motors are more readily available in 24V varieties (at £47 each + 
shipping).  Thus double battery, and then you need more power to shift 
it.  I'll also be doing it on budget speed controls (think MAG-style) 
for the moment, since the dollar:pound ratio is about 1.43:1 at the 
moment, and decreasing. and thus can't afford the $127 for a SECOND 
Saber!

We'll see what happens.

Incidentally, I see USPS tells me my C6C hasn't YET been shipped, or is 
that their systems being slow to update?  I'm expecting it to take a few 
weeks, given past experience with USPS to the UK, but that may have been 
a different service.

Chris

On 30/12/2008 18:14, Frank Pittelli wrote:
> Chris Malton wrote:
>> Finally I've got my hands on a pair of cheap motors.  £27 on eBay for
>> the pair, out of an electric kids ride-on jeep.
>
> The motors you just purchased, unofficially called "KCMs" (Kiddie Car
> Motors) in the hobby, were used in 3 of the 5 tanks to participate in
> the First Tyng Invitational battle ... and then never used again!!!
>
> KCMs work great for wheeled vehicles (the UN Vehicle and Goer have been
> using them for many, many battles), but they don't have enough "ooomph"
> (the actual technical term) to move a tank effectively.  Basically, our
> tanks need 500+ watts of power to turn properly and KCMs simply don't
> have that much power.  There simply isn't enough mass in the magnets and
> coils to convert enough battery   (Dr. Sommer can provide the exact
> technical terms and values if you'd like more details on the subject.)
>
>   Frank P.
>
> >



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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Frank Pittelli

Chris Malton wrote:
> Finally I've got my hands on a pair of cheap motors.  £27 on eBay for 
> the pair, out of an electric kids ride-on jeep.

The motors you just purchased, unofficially called "KCMs" (Kiddie Car 
Motors) in the hobby, were used in 3 of the 5 tanks to participate in 
the First Tyng Invitational battle ... and then never used again!!!

KCMs work great for wheeled vehicles (the UN Vehicle and Goer have been 
using them for many, many battles), but they don't have enough "ooomph" 
(the actual technical term) to move a tank effectively.  Basically, our 
tanks need 500+ watts of power to turn properly and KCMs simply don't 
have that much power.  There simply isn't enough mass in the magnets and 
coils to convert enough battery   (Dr. Sommer can provide the exact 
technical terms and values if you'd like more details on the subject.)

Frank P.

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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Chris Malton

Cheers Paul,

 From that it looks a pretty much like an old style #3.  That would 
imply a 700 series motor.  Whatever motor it is, I think I've already 
got a spare by accident!

Once I can get a set of tracks up and running, we'll see how they perform.

Chris


On 30/12/2008 17:40, Paul Hilton wrote:
> Chris,
>
> You may find this helpful:
>
> http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2206
>
> Lots of identification info and help with repair parts.
>
> Paul H.
> - Original Message -
> From: "Chris Malton"
> To: "RC Tank Combat"
> Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 9:19 AM
> Subject: [TANKS] Motors!!!
>
>
> Hi All,
> Finally I've got my hands on a pair of cheap motors.  £27 on eBay for
> the pair, out of an electric kids ride-on jeep.
>
> They look good for the Challenger, and we'll see how well they perform
> when I get around to sorting out the tracks and motor control.
>
> Hopefully there will be a transition to T status in the next 6 months.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
>
> >



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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Paul Hilton

Chris,

You may find this helpful:

http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2206

Lots of identification info and help with repair parts.

Paul H.
- Original Message - 
From: "Chris Malton" 
To: "RC Tank Combat" 
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 9:19 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Motors!!!


Hi All,
Finally I've got my hands on a pair of cheap motors.  £27 on eBay for
the pair, out of an electric kids ride-on jeep.

They look good for the Challenger, and we'll see how well they perform
when I get around to sorting out the tracks and motor control.

Hopefully there will be a transition to T status in the next 6 months.

Chris





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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Chris Malton

I have no idea what they are in terms of specification.

I believe they are about the same as T055/T027, possibly slightly more 
powerful.  All I can say, at the moment is: they're NOISY!

I've got an idea for tracks, and will be trying to get that sorted out. 
  Mine are going to be precision engineered to engage perfectly.  At 
least that's the plan.  I can bet they won't though!

As for the CO2 bottle, I'm no longer worried about space constraints, 
cos I can comfortably fit a 0.8l HPA bottle in there.  I'm just waiting 
to find somewhere with a bargain price.

In other news, the Challenger is now Battleswitch upgraded, so be warned!

Chris

On 30/12/2008 17:15, funkyne...@ntlworld.com wrote:
> They look very similar to the Motor gear box in To55 and To27 . Are
> they bigger ? Do they have a 550 motor driving them ?
>
> ( The Co2 bottle I fitted into To27 was 9 once .)
>
> Neil R
>
> >



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[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!

2008-12-30 Thread Funkyneroc

They look very similar to the Motor gear box in To55 and To27 . Are
they bigger ? Do they have a 550 motor driving them ?

( The Co2 bottle I fitted into To27 was 9 once .)

Neil R

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