[RCSE] Fresno Classic?

2005-04-07 Thread Mike Reed
Was this contest formerly the Dr. Pepper Classic?  Years ago I  attended
this a few times and have fond memories of the experience. Other members of
our club at the time (ISS, Riverside) made the trek up to Fresno and had fun
all weekend.


Mike Reed
Southern Oregon Soaring Society
Medford Oregon
LSF  Club Coordinator


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Re: [RCSE] Lucky plane

2005-04-05 Thread Mike Reed
John,  part of the reason you may be experiencing this is that the lucky
ones are the one you are meant to fly.  I like the Falcon and have one now
but all of them in the past have been exactly the sameI can't explain
that. I know people who fly the latest and greatest models and seem to fall
out of the sky for no reason while I have skyed out with my 19 year old
beater.

Good luck finding that lucky plane again.






- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: soaring@airage.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 2:46 PM
Subject: [RCSE] Lucky plane


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Re: [RCSE] Manfred Radius/H101 Salto from Toronto

2005-02-11 Thread Mike Reed
Manfred has done his airshow act here in Medford, Oregon several times. I
talked with him for about half an hour and determined he is certifiable.
Usually the end of his beautiful aerobatic routine is topped off with an
inverted ribbon cut about 25 feet off the ground and then he pulls the nose
up and stalls at almost vertical. As the nose of the Salto flips downward,
he picks up speed and buzzes the ribbon again and then completes a full
landing pattern, rolls up to the crowd, steps out  and waves to the
crowd

This man has the cocoanuts like other masters like Leo Loudenslager, Art
Scholl, Skip Volk..
Great video by the way..

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Re: [RCSE] 555 antenna length

2005-01-25 Thread Mike Reed
I have a new one and it measures 40.5 from the case..


- Original Message -
From: David Zucker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: soaring@airage.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2005 7:35 PM
Subject: [RCSE] 555 antenna length


 I need to add a new antenna to my Hitec 555. Broke the old one ages ago
 so I need the recommended antenna length.


 TIA

 David Z

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Re: [RCSE] Re: flip my flapjack?

2005-01-16 Thread Mike Reed
Try to look up Don Westegren. He built a four-stroke powered one in the
eighties.  It flew very well and appeared in many magazines. Someone with
his experience could answer allot of questions.
Sounds like an interesting project..
I have a Wattage Super Cobalt 400 and a 50 amp ESC, If you can use it,  I'll
let it go for $40.00...


- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Soaring@airage.com
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2005 5:23 PM
Subject: [RCSE] Re: flip my flapjack?


 After seeing the short article in Quiet Flyer this month on the Vought
XF5U-1
 Flying Flapjack,  my long-lived desire to create one of these for myself
 has been revived, and I'm looking for suggestions and technical help in
the
 design phase of my project.

 I am going to first make a simplified test bed version using fanfold foam,
in
 semi-profile configuration. The final model will be fully dimensional and
 made from depron for the most part. I bought a very nice paper model of
the
 flapjack from which I will be scaling up formers and the like, so that
part I think
 is covered.

  The Version One  testbed will be an indoor/light outdoor park flyer type.
I
 am unfortunately restricted in budget, so I'm looking at brushed speed
 300-400 type can motors, likely on direct drive, and powered by nicads or
most
 likely hydride battery packs. I know it before you type it: outrunners and
lipos
 would do this job much better and more efficiently, (and if I had some
ham, I
 could make a ham sandwich if I had some bread too). I'm asking for
your best
 suggestions using what I have available to me, and lipos and outrunners
are
 not in the budget at this time.

  I'm going with a simple 3-channel radio setup, elevon control with
HS-55's
 and motor ESC. At this point, if I can get a decent five minute flight
with
 good performance, I'll call it a win, knowing an eventual upgrade to lipos
will
 cut weight and increase power and duration.

 My plan for mounting the motors is to use model rocket body tubes for the
 motor booms, reinforced with a bit of glassing and some new carbon fiber
rod from
 Midwest. So much of the character of this plane comes from the twin big
 4-blade props, I'd really like to find the right motor/prop combo to make
this
 semi-scale look happen, without pulling too much current for the
battery/esc.  I
 see in the hobby lobby catalog that flying styro makes 3 and 4-blade hubs
and
 blades that might work... I don't have motocalc or other  similar tools to
 calculate the loads in advance, any help here? I'm guessing twin speed
400's and a
 six-cell hydride pack, that's as far as I've got, and don't know if one
ESC
 can handle the twin load...

 Size wise, I'm thinking about a 25-inch span, which sounds like it would
have
 a high wing loading, but is deceptive for this plane's configuration. The
 full scale plane was designed to be VTOL/VSTOL, working at high-alpha and
slow
 speed for takeoff and landing.

 Any hints, tips, advice gladly considered. If you have pics or URL's you
want
 to share, I'd welcome the info.  When I have something significant to show
in
 the way of progress, I'll post a link to a thread on RCgroups.com

 Thanks for your time and help.
 Mark

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[RCSE] Hitec Receiver for Sale

2004-12-28 Thread Mike Reed
I have an un-used RCD3200 8 channel receiver for sale. It is made to be used
with Futaba transmitters. The factory part number is FM/HFD-08RD This was a
$50.00 receiver and I'm selling it for $40.00 including shipping. It is
similar to the one at this link.
http://shopatron.com/product/product_id=RCD23272/110

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Re: [RCSE] Jr Receiver ?

2004-12-25 Thread Mike Reed
Mark, you can use any frequency between and including those numbers.


- Original Message -
From: Mark Wales [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: soaring@airage.com
Sent: Saturday, December 25, 2004 9:27 PM
Subject: [RCSE] Jr Receiver ?



 I was looking through a padded case where I keep all my RC electronics and
 came across a JR NER-627XZ 7 channel PCM receiver.

 On the side of the receiver there is a sticker that says low band
 72.010-72.510  does that mean those are the only channels it can be used
 with?

 Thanks

 Mark

 Soaring Is Life!!


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Re: [RCSE] Building Time

2004-12-20 Thread Mike Reed
Tom, I scratch build  one project a year but sometimes the project turns
into a three year afair.  I like scratch building because I don't care for
the ARFs that are offered to the soaring community.   Sometimes I get a
large project done in a couple months but others (like my XC project) has
stretched out for years.

Glad to see someone still builds from scratch.



- Original Message -
From: Thomas Koszuta [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: RCSE [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 20, 2004 11:09 AM
Subject: [RCSE] Building Time


Just some fun stuff.

I've been working on a set of 2M wings for a while.  CF spar with Drela
Joiners  in a white foam, obechi sheeting.  I started it last winter with
the cuts and slowly have hitting up one piece at a time.  Should be done
with the wings at the end of the year.

How long do your scratch built projects take?

Tom Koszuta
Western New York Sailplane and Electric Flyers
Buffalo, NY

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Re: [RCSE] need G-10 for control horns, or suitable substitute

2004-12-16 Thread Mike Reed

I make my own horns from carbon laminate. Use slow CA glue to laminate as
many layers that you need.

Glass laminate will take out your jigsaw blade in one minute. Carbon
laminate will not kill your saw that fast.

A laminated carbon horn will also outlast your sailplane. .

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[RCSE] HT-14 Airfoil

2001-12-01 Thread Mike Reed

I have seen recent mumblings about the HT-12,13,and 14 stab airfoils. In one
article, someone stated that the HT-14 could be used on larger sailplanes.
I would like to know if this means larger handlaunch or 100 sailplanes?
Would this airfoil work in the RE of a Cross Country ship?

Mike Reed
Ashland Oregon

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Re: [RCSE] FMA Rcvrs

2000-06-19 Thread Mike Reed

All you have to do is consult the expert in your own club. Starting from
left to right, JR is up,down,down,up,up.

Futaba is down,up,up,down,down.

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Re: [RCSE] FMA Rcvrs

2000-06-19 Thread Mike Reed

It, funny how some people are so eager to reply to a post that they miss the
entire point of the question

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Re: [RCSE] Interesting photo!

2000-05-25 Thread Mike Reed

It had to be staged... It looks like a composite photo. Also, in order for
that plane to fly in that attitude in the crow mode it would have to be
flying at 40 MPH. If the plane was coming in nose high, i would believe
it

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Re: [RCSE] handling kevlar... HELP!!!!

2000-05-25 Thread Mike Reed

You answered your own question. In the future, never take Kevlar to the
edge

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Re: [RCSE] Acetone and Mylars

2000-03-30 Thread Mike Reed

Jeff, do it the simple way.. When you wax the outside of your Mylars, use
carnauba car wax and apply it generously. Let it hase but do not buff it
off. Any resin that creeps onto the mylars will come right off. Wax and buff
three times on the inside though. Clean the Mylars off with lacquer thinner
or acetone or MEK. You can not hurt them... That's why people use the
stuff..

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Re: [RCSE] Fiberglass Mold Surface Coat

2000-03-16 Thread Mike Reed

Robert, The Item you mentioned from Aircraft spruce is the right stuff. The
part number is 09-01099A. Fibre-Glast Also has a good quality product under
the same name with a part number of 458-A Check out thier website at
http://www.fibreglast.com/fiberglass_composites_catalog.htm


- Original Message -
From: Robert Steinhaus [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 3:31 PM
Subject: [RCSE] Fiberglass Mold Surface Coat


 I would be grateful to know of a source for fiberglass mold surface coat
 (sometimes a special hard epoxy is applied to the surface of a fiberglass
 mold to improve wear and durability). There is one product listed in
 "Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Company" catalog but I am uncertain if it
is
 appropriate for model fuselage mold fabrication. Thanks for any leads!
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Re: [RCSE] Mylar staying flat

2000-03-11 Thread Mike Reed

Mikey, If the sun shines in your part of the world, lay the mylar in the
driveway or car hood. Be sure to lay it on some paper to prevent scratching
or better yet, some black plastic tarp would work well. After I bag a wing,
the mylars are usually flat and stay that way because I hang them on the
wall with a tack.
I use .016 mylar and always get it on a roll.

- Original Message -
From: Mikey D [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 3:51 PM
Subject: [RCSE] Mylar staying flat


 Although it's just annoying, I'm wondering if there is a way to straighten
 out mylar  on a flat surface.  Every time I order mylar for my project the
 UPS man seems to deliver it in a rolled package. (That's how my supplier
 ships it).  I have to tape the mylar to my workbench to get it to lay
flat.
 When I'm done with my project the mylar rolls back up. Does anyone have
the
 same problem I have?  Looking for a way to make this stuff lay flat.

 Thanks
 Mikey D

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Re: [RCSE] Molding Fiberglass with color??

1999-12-27 Thread Mike Reed

Mike, I have been making fiberglass parts for about 15 years and still the
best way is to paint after the part is made. Tinting the epoxy gives a
semi-opaque finish and sometimes weakens the epoxy. If painting the mold
prior to lay-up, the mold needs to be perfect. Any imperfection on the mold
line would  need touch-up and re-work making that a waste of time. I use
quality primers and automotive paint to get excellent paint jobs...While
I am at it, I hate to see the new trend of high-dollar sailplane kits that
have mold lines down the length of the fuselage. I think some of the
American manufacturers should take a lesson from the European kit makers who
produce seamless lap-joints on their fuselages.
- Original Message -
From: Mikey D [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 1999 4:34 PM
Subject: [RCSE] Molding Fiberglass with color??


 Hello Everyone,
 I'm interested in polling the group on which way to color a fuselage
layup.
 The way I see it there are 3 ways to get color onto a fuselage.
 1. Use a pigmant when mixing up your epoxy??
 2. Paint the mold prior to laying up the glass??
 3. Paint the fuse after poping out the fuse from the mold??
 Looking for Pro's, Con's tips and tricks anything the experts can add..

 Thanks,
 Mikey D

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Fw: [RCSE] Bagging Help

1999-12-19 Thread Mike Reed


- Original Message -
From: Mike Reed [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Bagging Help


 Garth, I have a few answers for you. First of all, use carnauba wax on
your
 mylars. I use Eagle One paste wax and have never had anything stick. I use
 three coats on the epoxy side of the mylars and one on the outside, this
way
 everything comes apart easily.. I don't know what PJ's epoxy is but it is
 posible that it is dissolving the Freecote. If you want to remove these
 speckles from your mylars, try lacquer thinner. The epoxy is probably not
 the problem however I have never encountered any problems with West
 Systems...hope this helps you out

 --- Original Message -
 From: Garth Warner [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, December 18, 1999 9:26 PM
 Subject: [RCSE] Bagging Help


  Last week I bagged my first set of stabs for a HLG.  I had waxed the
  mylars with 7 coats of "Freecote" mold release agent in advance. Used
  "PJ's" epoxy, and left the whole thing in the bag for 48 hrs until the
  epoxy cured, (low temp in my garage).  The stab came out fine, the
  mylars came out with little tiny speckles of epoxy that failed to
  release and bonded to the surface. We're talking really tiny spots, but
  you can see and feel them on the mylars.  These little suckers won't rub
  off. I've got a feeling that this is abby normal.  So the question is...
  I want to bag some more, how do I get the little speckles off ?  How do
  I prevent them in the future ?   Different epoxy ?  Longer cure time,
  (epoxy was cured when I remove the stab from the bag), ?  Apply heating
  pad to the bag ?  Different wax ?
I have more mylar and will cut new pieces this weekend but don't think
  that I need to cut new mylars for every piece.  Any help would be
  appreciated.
 
  Thanks
  Garth
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Re: [RCSE] wing layup with hotbox question?

1999-12-13 Thread Mike Reed

Marc. I use an electric blanket when bagging wings in the cold northwest.
After the final suck-down, Place the lower "beds" on the blanket. Position
the bagged cores on top of beds and carefully fold the E-blanket over the
top of the wing. I have never had a warped wing by using this method. I
had a "hot box" but you have to store it someplace...

- Original Message -
From: Marc Webster [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 9:28 PM
Subject: [RCSE] wing layup with hotbox question?


 Hello,

 I am about to vacuum bag lay up a composite wing for a thermal duration
 glider called the addiction.  I am considering making a hotbox to increase
 the curing temperature since winter has arrived. I will be using a hotbox
 with a few lightbulbs and a recerculating fan to keep the air moving.  The
 bulbs will be isolated from direct exposure to the cores by a ceiling in
the
 box.  My question is.  Will the hotbox cause the wing to cure faster on
the
 top than the bottom causing the wing to bow or twist.  I use to work at a
 mold shop where we used post cure ovens, to allow the molds to cure evenly
 they were placed on a large racks to allow the air to flow between them.
Do
 I need to use a rack as well?  If so, chances are the rack will leave
marks
 on the wing.  If anyone has any experience in this matter, please let me
 know I do not want to waste a set of cores to learn from a mistake someone
 like myself may have already made.

 Thank you,

 Marc Webster

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