Re: Accucraft German website
Hey Steve, Read your post and was curious what "Mona" looked like. Searched all over the site but can't locate "Mona". Vic - Original Message - From: "Ciambrone, Steve @ OS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 8:25 AM Subject: RE: Accucraft German website > WOW, I got to have one of those Mona engines, very Pretty. > > Steve > > > -Original Message- > > From: Jeffrey Williams [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 6:41 PM > > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam > > Subject: Accucraft German website > > > > Check out > > > > http://www.accucraft.de/Produkte/produkte.html > > > > Not only does this website show several European-pattern locomotives not > > shown on the US website, but also lists a live steam K-28! > > >
Re: dead leg piping
Why use copper? Brass thin wall tube will give you the external size you want and the thin wall will give more internal space for the steam/oil to exchange. Vic in CA - Original Message - From: "Royce Woodbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 10:03 AM Subject: dead leg piping > Hi Gang. > > Not to change the subject, but I have a question. I'm designing a dead > leg lubricator for my Philly. Can I make the pipe that goes to the > steam tee out of 1/16" OD copper ? The ID is probably about .034 or so. > I'm going to try and disquise the lubricator tank as an air compressor > on the side of the boiler. So I'd prefer NOT to have 1/8" pipe coming > out of it (would look way out of scale). Any thoughts ? > > royce in SB > > >
Re: Water Proof White Glue
I really don't know the construction material of your tender or what kind of access you have for repairs. If I had a leak in a brass tender that I could reach with either a soldering iron or a resistance soldering unit, that's the way I'd go. You could do it quick without burning off the paint. I also don't recall you mentioning any pressure involved. Maybe a home roof "seek-a-leak" product would also work, that is if you can't reach/see the location. Vic - Original Message - From: "Ciambrone, Steve @ OS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 5:05 PM Subject: RE: Water Proof White Glue > I use Pacer ZAP-A-DAP-A-GOO Silly name but it does work very well, I > describe it as a solvent based thick bodied sealant. I use it in my model > boats and seems to stick to everthing. Available in most hobby shops. Not > as nasty as Silicone sealant. Dries semi flexible. Applies best with a > syringe. > > Steve > > > -Original Message- > > From: Chuck Walters [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 12:32 PM > > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam > > Subject: Water Proof White Glue > > > > I have a leak in the tender of my live steam shay. The builder > > recommended > > a 1 to 1 mixture of water and white glue. The problem is that after the > > mixture hardens (it did seal the leak), the introduction of new water in > > the > > tender re-dissolves the glue. What is a good white glue that can be cut > > by > > water, but that will not re-dissolve after it dries > > > > Chuck Walters > > Twin Lakes Railway > > http://home.twcny.rr.com/twinlakesrw > > > > >
Re: Building Tenmille kits
I too use Titeabond, but only the Titebond II which is waterproof (above the waterline says the container). I have quite a few trestle bents and shingle covered structures that have been left in the garden for 5 plus years and have remained solid. Just be sure to wipe off excess as it is yellow. On the bents I was lazy, so I just tossed some garden soil onto a few joints to hide the glue line. Vic in CA - Original Message - From: "Vance Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 3:23 PM Subject: Re: Building Tenmille kits > > what glue is best these days? Is it cyano? > > Not for anything you want to last a while. I have found that CA glues > will bond wood very well, but not over the long run. From what I hear, > CA was designed to deteriorate in the presence of moisture (it was > developed as a surgical substitute for sutures), so over time it > weakens in contact with humidity, steam condensation, etc. > > I use aliphatic (yellow) carpenters glue rated for outdoor use. Check > the home improvement store for Titebond, Elmer's Outdoor or similar. > The Elmer's stuff I use is tacky in less that 5 and sets up in 10-15 > minutes, so it's almost as easy to use as CA in terms of speed. And it > doesn't fall apart unexpectedly at a steamup. > > regards, > -vance- > > Vance Bass > Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA > Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass > >
Re: Survey is posted
Vance, You said in your post "We are remodeling our back yard so it will be more hospitable to a railroad..." It got me to thinking-What are some major points to having a successful live steam yard layout? I have a ground level line, and of course some of the weak points of bend and stoop have been mentioned. Hey, how about a survey Actually, does anyone have a "List" of what works and would like to share it? Vic in CA - Original Message - From: "Vance Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 2:28 PM Subject: Re: Survey is posted > > "preaching to the choir" and not out on the street > > corner recruiting converts like the "Sally Ann" did years > > ago. > > OK, Walt has issued the challenge -- what are we going to do in > response? > > How about a pledge for each of us to have (or attend) an open house > and teach at least one willing volunteer to run a live steamer? That's > what got me hooked (thanks, Ken Matticks!) and you will all remember > the thrill of your first run, I expect. > > We are remodeling our back yard so it will be more hospitable to a > railroad, so all my track will be relaid and the railroad finally completed > this spring or early summer. I intend to have a steam-and-batteries- > only open house, and will teach anyone interested to fire a Ruby or C- > 16. > > If we all did it and got one person interested in live steam, think of > what an impact that would make on our overall numbers! > > regards, > -vance- > > Vance Bass > Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA > Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass > >
Re: Source for high temp wire for headlight
Hi Mitch and All, I've had great luck for several years running my gas fired engine and having power for the "oil lamp". What I did was place the AA battery in the "firebox" with a switch, and ran the hot lead through a boiler fill/ clack valve into the smoke box. Then protected it with model airplane silicon tubing. Simple, Vic in CA - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 31, 2003 8:27 AM Subject: Source for high temp wire for headlight > Hi All, > > I want to run electric to my headlight from the RC in my cab. I'll run it on the bottom of the frame, and then up through the smokebox. I've seen Teflon and silicon insulated wire advertised as high temperature tolerant. The problem is, that no one here in Cincinnati carries it in stock. The sources I've found on the Internet want me to buy 100 feet. That's an awful lot of live steam loco headlights. Does anyone know of a source for this wire in smaller lengths? > > Thanks in advance, > Mitch Nearhood > > >
Re: Cabeese and other questions.
I've run across a couple sources for Sandy River plans as well. Try contacting The Underground Railway Press, POBox 11279, Burke, VA 22009-1279. They aren't available via email, but have quite a variety. Also a super source for all the SR&RL cars is S.R.&R.L. Passenger Cars by Gary Kohler. The book was published in 1994. Try Gary at http://www.maine2footquarterly.com/books.htm Vic in CA - Original Message - From: "Earle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 7:31 PM Subject: Re: Cabeese and other questions. > What book are you referring to? I have "Ride the Sandy River" which contains > a good bit of information but would like a reference showing the actual car > plans if one is available...Earle > - Original Message - > From: "Gary" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 9:04 AM > Subject: Re: Cabeese and other questions. > > > > The only film for the SR&RL is interesting, but pretty limited. At least > it > > gives some idea of operation and buildings as well as some rolling stock. > I > > love the little rail buses and bus with trailer vehicles. The book, while > > expensive provides even more information. > > > > Gary - chilling in Eugene, Oregon > > http://www.angelfire.com/or/trainguy > > http://community.webshots.com/user/raltzenthor > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > From: Earle > > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam > > Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 10:04 AM > > Subject: Re: Cabeese and other questions. > > > > > > SR&RL frequently used Combines on the end of their mixed trains. From the > > research I've done these had a variety of configurations-some with more > than > > 1 large "freight" sliding door on each side making them look odd. Some had > > clerestory type roofs and a couple had an arched roof with no clerestory > > windows based on an old video I have of the railroad taken in the early > > 1930's. Jackson & Sharp of Wilmington, Delaware was a builder of many of > the > > coaches and parlor cars (I assume combines as well) for the eastern > > two-footers during the 1870's and 1880's. > > You might want to check out these sites; > > http://www.srrl-rr.org/ > > http://www.wwfry.org/equipment/rollstock.html > > As far as a Caboose, it depends on the era I suppose. Around 1915 Maine > > Central Railroad shops built a long caboose (sort of like a "drover's" > > caboose) for the SR&RL. I am currently building a NE Narrowgauge kit of > > this car. > > http://www.nemodel.com/nng/index.shtml > > Hope this helpsEarle > > > > > OK fo the Two Foot Foamers: What type of coaches did SR&RL use? Did > > they > > > use a Combine type of coach? ( a type that I'd dearly like to acquire) > > > Also as I'm building a generic caboose at the moment to go behind the > next > > > loco that arrives, what type of cabooses did SR&RL use please? > > > > > > I just hope that I haven't started another war! B-) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 73, John de VK2XGJ > > > General Manager > > > Elk River & Cheat Mountain Railroad > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
Re: suggestions
Dave, Yes, I'd like a drawing of the tube. I also own the Hadden filler and also the screw-on type. Sorry you didn't understand my problem with reaching my venting gas filler valve. It is down inside what is the dummy water hatch on the tender of my Forney. That is what the 5/8"x5/8" dimension was for. I did not measure the nozzle length on the Butane cans from my local Asian market. I suppose that would be the quickest way to find out. Anyway, Thanks for your response and awaiting the sketch! Vic in CA - Original Message - From: "Dave Cole" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, November 29, 2002 11:31 AM Subject: Re: suggestions > At 10:17 AM -0800 11/29/02, The Sagers wrote: > >Trent, > >Thanks for forwarding Patrick's Butane info. > > > >I wonder though how I would be able to fill my gas tank with one of those > >Asian Stove containers. > > i was with you until you wrote ... > > >I have a 5/8" deep by 5/8" dia tube with my gas valve down inside. Would I > >be able to reach it with an Asian style stove can?(They have that threading > >collar gizmo attached) > > > ... thread collar gizmo ... the asian stove containers i've seen all > have direct ronson-style connectors, not the threaded type. primus > and a few others are the ones that have screw-ons, so you must have > stumbled upon a supplier of non-standard butane cooking devices. > > > Would it be possible to make a simple telescoping > >tube extension. Has anyone done this? > >I believe by gas valve is the venting type that is found on Roundhouse > >engines. > > our fine friends at sulphur springs steam models (www.sssmodels.com) > have a "gas filler adaptor for butane gas cans (threaded camping > style cans) -- long neck" which should solve your problem. > > the most recent price was $17.50; you might also consider getting a > "Hadden" style gas filler adapter (a few bucks more) so that you can > beg or borrow gas from pretty much anyone. > > i also have a butane "extender" that was included with my Berkeley > Steam Motor's Cricket (the gas tank is in the cab and the roof > doesn't come off; there's a hole in the roof and you stick this > little brass tube down onto the ronson valve and put your can of > butane on the other end of the tube, which has a ronson-like > fitting). unfortunately, berkeley steam motor is no longer with us, > but if you had some metal skills i could draw one up for you and you > could make your own. > > \dmc > > > > -- > ^^^ > Dave Cole > Gen'l Sup't: Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co. >Pacifica, Calif. USA <http://45mm.com/> <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers ><mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > ^^^ >
Re: suggestions
Trent, Thanks for forwarding Patrick's Butane info. I wonder though how I would be able to fill my gas tank with one of those Asian Stove containers. I have a 5/8" deep by 5/8" dia tube with my gas valve down inside. Would I be able to reach it with an Asian style stove can?(They have that threading collar gizmo attached) Would it be possible to make a simple telescoping tube extension. Has anyone done this? I believe by gas valve is the venting type that is found on Roundhouse engines. Vic in CA - Original Message - From: "Trent Dowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, November 29, 2002 9:51 AM Subject: Re: suggestions > Vance and List, > > One subject that comes up every month or so is where to buy Butane. I > saved the message that Patrick Darby compiled (attached below) comparing Butane > prices from internet sources. Although the prices may be out of date now, it > gives a good starting point. > Also to be added to the Butane source list should be the always mentioned > Asian markets, Wal-Mart, camping supplies stores, Army Surplus outlets, etc., > etc.. > Hope it helps. > > Later, > Trent > > > PATRICK DARBY wrote: > > >In case anyone is interested I have made a comparison of the recent > > internet > > sites mentioned on this list where butane can be purchased: > > > > South Summit: http://www.southsummit.com/glowmaster%20stoves.html > > GMF2-- 12 cans butane, 8 oz per can-- $21.95 +$7.97 ship32 cents/oz. > > GMF3-- 24 cans butane, 8 oz per can-- $69.95 +$12.97 ship 43 cents/oz. > > > > REI camping > > http://www.rei.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/REI/search.d2w/input?query=b > > utane&brand=any&min=0&max=999&x=32&y=15 > > GAZ470-- 6 cans butane/propane 80/20-- $33.00 + $2.99 ship 37.5 cents/oz. > > GAZ270-- 6 cans butane/propane 80/20-- $27.00 + $2.99 ship 56.8 cents/oz. > > MSR Isobutane-- 6 cans-- $23.10 + $2.99 ship 72 cents/oz. > > Primus 215g-- 6 cans butane/propane/isobutane--$25.80 + $2.99 ship--57.5 > > cents/oz. > > Primus 450g-- 6 cans butane/propane/isobutane--$43.49 + $2.99 ship--45.3 > > cents/oz. > > > > Lucienne http://store.yahoo.com/a-zlighters/r1.html > > 13 oz. butane triple refined 6 cans for $24.00 plus shipping $7.50(est)-- > > 40.3 cents/oz. > > > > Filling adapters for the GAZ and Primus are friction fit and can be > > obtained from Sulphur Springs Models > > http://www.steamup.com/sulphur > > Adapters for the MSR and South Summit butane are screw-on and can be > > obtained from Sulphur Springs also. > > The Lucienne cans have their own plastic filler spouts. > > > > PATRICK DARBY > > TIMBER & TALLOW BRANCH RR > > COVINGTON, LA > >
Re: gt&e has first run
I have a similar problem with a tree. The rather large pine has decided to lay over to the side while it was young during several different wet windy winters. This has lifted the track on the root side, and made for occasional bumped heads on the other, trunk side. I'm hoping it doesn't get any worse or it, as your trees will have to also be "dropped". Vic in CA. - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 10:05 AM Subject: Re: gt&e has first run > Good for you Dave! Me, I am facing a dilema with my track. They have to > drop this huge dead tree in my back yard. Landlord won't say when, just that > they are going to do it. It will land right on the track, or at the very > least they will leave all the trunks right smack in the middle. I think it > will be up to me to cut it up and burn, haul it away. I am a bit bummed with > the prospects. > Bob >
Re: pinch rolls
Harry and all, Gee I had to dust off an old metalworking book from my college days to remember the reason for the slip roll. All I could find was "to permit the cylinder to be removed without danger of distortion". I also remember making coil springs on the slip roll and thus you'd need to get them off the rolls. What I don't see on the pinch rolls, are vertically aligned grooves which allow a person to roll rod into controlled diameters-not often used but nice to have. Vic in CA - Original Message - From: "Harry Wade" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 1:08 PM Subject: Re: pinch rolls >Aha! I just now remembered why a pinch roll does not leave a flat > edge and a slip roll does. As I said in my last, no bending takes place in > slip rolls until the leading edge contacts the 3rd roll. Likewise no > bending will take place after the trailing edge passes the 1st roll. > In the pinch rolls there is also a short gap between the main rolls > and the bending roll (the 3rd roll) which also leaves a short flat on the > leading edge for the same reason. However because of their geometry the > trailing edge will come through the rolls fully curved, simply reversing > the sheet and running it through the other direction will take out the > leading edge flat. That leads to the question, if that's the case why > would anyone bother to make the slip roll type? The obvious is they must > be cheaper to make or easier to use. > > Regards, > Harry > >
Re: Thin refractory material
Hi Royce, You may get by with material commonly used for our boiler lagging-FibreFax I think it is called. It's similar to asbestos in look/feel but a ceramic fiber product. I usually place it in my small crucible before I make a lost wax casting to protect the inner surface of the expensive crucible. Mine is about 1/16" and I can mail you a small piece. I don't know your exact problem, but in a similar soldering situation, I just slid a piece of sheet metal to act as a barrier. Also what might work is to coat the piece not to be soldered with investment material (which is used for making molds in the lost wax casting process). The problem with this material though is it is very corrosive because of its low ph. I also seem to remember a moldable ceramic product made especially to be a heatsink in soldering applications- may have been offered at MicroMark. You could probably get some at a Jewelry supply. Vic in CA - Original Message - From: "Royce Woodbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 4:41 PM Subject: Re: Thin refractory material > Hi Gary. What was the total thickness of composite ? > > royce in SB > > Gary wrote: > > > I got a heat shield at a plumbing supply house. > > It has two layers. A soft aluminum layer with some sort of insulating cloth > > attached. > > I just shape the material around what I am soldering. It saved me from > > setting fire > > to my house when soldering 40 feet of pipe with a bunch of valves and turns. > > Pipe > > was right against insulation and wood in many places. > > ~Gary - Eugene, Oregon > > > > > Hi listers. I need some thin refractory material to protect one > > > part while silver soldering another in close proximity. Anybody > > > know of a source of 1/32 to 1/16" thick heat shielding material > > > ? I looked in my wife's hair dryer and there is a metal shield > > > between the elements and plastic exterior, but then there is a > > > blower that carries the hot air away. I only need a couple of > > > square inches of the stuff and would be happy to buy some if I > > > knew where. (I checked at Air Liquide up the street (they sell > > > bottled gases and silversoldering supplies)and the thinnest > > > stuff they had was 1/8" - too thick). Any suggestions ? > > > > > > royce in SB > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
