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http://www.automotiveworld.com/news-releases/kia-motors-america-provides-electric-vehicles-advanced-power-energy-program-university-california-irvine/
KIA Motors America provides electric vehicles to the Advanced Power and
Energy Program at The University of California, Irvine
June 2, 2016
Kia M
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Nikola Tesla EV Rally Day 3: Sibenik, Krka, Smiljan, Plitvice, Zagreb
05 Jun 2016 Paul Bradbury
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Subject: [EVDL] EVLN: EV-newswire posts for 20160606
I assume most people on the EV discussion list have subscribed to CHARGED
magazine? It is free to EV insiders (comes every 2 months) and is a great
technical mag (no circuits of course), but lots of fluff about all the new
EV technology. Not
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> There are other better ways of avoiding inefficiency, I think.
> One is that many panels are set up in series, which means
> that if any one cell is covered by shade, the output of the
> entire system is reduced
RANT ON:
True in paper-theory, but this is oft' repeated hogwash sales pitch by
sal
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.onegravity.k10.pro2";>K-@
Mail - the evolution of emailing.
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Sanity check: The only reason to build off-grid is if the Power Company
wants more than $15,000 to run the lines to your house. If you are near
the lines, and for some reason insist on not connecting, then you will be
wasting $2 of every $3 your solar investment on batteries and maintenance
for t
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Roland via EV wrote:
A dead 12 volt battery is the problem when you have your control
circuits in your EV run by 12 volts. My first EV that I received
back in 1976 and still have it today, uses LINE voltage to run all
the control circuits. LINE voltage is the same voltage as the main
battery.
On 6 Jun 2016 at 8:03, Roland via EV wrote:
> My first EV that I received back in 1976 and still have it today, uses
> LINE voltage to run all the control circuits. LINE voltage is the same
> voltage as the main battery ...
> My EV control voltage was ran off a Honey Well motor generator that wa
On Mon Jun 06 08:44:58 PDT 2016 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
>I've wondered about this as well. Why keep the legacy 12v battery in an
>EV? Design all the lights, motors, and electronics to run on pack
>voltage, and eliminate the 12v battery, its charging circuits, and problems.
Putting 300VDC at the fi
Michael Ross via EV wrote:
Mike is correct - a single old inefficient panel can draw a sustained arc
an inch or longer. Some decent sized farms have burned down because you
can't just turn off the sun. There are important safety concern to learn
about.
120v DC was used for power distribution in
Another reason is that you can reduce the capacity of your dc-dc
converter. Running lights, A/C, windshield wipers, fans, brake pump,
power steering, etc. all at once is a large current draw. But a single
high current 12V battery can handle that and keep those devices powered
for a long while
es are essentially connected in
> >parallel for float charging, etc.
>
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Mike Nickerson wrote:
Hi Lee,
I don't think that is how in rush current limiters work. I use them to protect
my DC-DC converter caps so they don't get whacked with a high in rush current
when the connection is first made.
You're right. My explanation was not at all clear. I was staying up to
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John Lussmyer wrote:
Putting 300VDC at the fingertips of the driver and passengers?
Note that normal 240vac has a peak of around 340v.
High-power accessories like heaters, air conditioners, power steering
pumps, etc. could run directly from the 300vdc. They would be hard
wired, so consumers
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I've never tried this, but I've heard (probably here on the EVDL) of using a
PWM DC motor controller for this purpose. You'd probably need an inductor
in series with its output to simulate motor inductance, so the controller's
current limiting circuit would have time to do its job.
David Roden
On 6 Jun 2016 at 8:57, John Lussmyer via EV wrote:
> Putting 300VDC at the fingertips of the driver and passengers? Doesn't sound
> like a good idea.
Aren't most all vehicle electrical items switched electronically these days?
Everything seems to go through some computer.
> Main pack dies
Jan,
For someone new to electric vehicles, and for a majority of conversions, a 12
volt accessory battery is the simple means to power accessories. The car you
are converting was built that way, many 12 volt accessories exist and are
available at a reasonable cost, no need to make a lot of chan
wo batteries are essentially connected in
> >parallel for float charging, etc.
>
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>
In the early days of switchmode PSU's it was common to use N.T.C. resistors
for inrush current limiting, later on we went away from that. Look at PC
power supplies from the '80s and '90s at least, they have a 1 Ohm, 5 W
resistor in series (for a 230Vac PSU. The problem with an NTC is they stay
hot
Alan Brinkman via EV wrote:
For someone new to electric vehicles, and for a majority of
conversions, a 12 volt accessory battery is the simple means to power
accessories.
That's right. The KISS solution is a 12v accessory battery. Even Tesla
is using a 12v lead-acid accessory battery.
Some
Cor van de Water via EV wrote:
Why don't you try to connect the two first and see if there is a
problem that you want to solve, instead of first building a solution and
then finding out that it is not needed at all?
That's a good idea. If these are big low-resistance AGMs at
significantly diff
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
I've never tried this, but I've heard (probably here on the EVDL) of using a
PWM DC motor controller for this purpose. You'd probably need an inductor
in series with its output to simulate motor inductance, so the controller's
current limiting circuit would have
than its normal rated current to flow
> between
> > >
> > >the batteries. If you try, it just lights up. But when the current is
> > >less than this (such as while on standby), the bulb's resistance is
> > >LOW.
> > >The bulb is out, and the two batteries ar
> From: John Lussmyer via EV
>
> On Mon Jun 06 08:44:58 PDT 2016 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
>> I've wondered about this as well. Why keep the legacy 12v battery in an
>> EV? Design all the lights, motors, and electronics to run on pack
>> voltage, and eliminate the 12v battery, its charging circuits
On 6 Jun 2016 at 14:54, Jan Steinman via EV wrote:
> Imagine if every little auto-electric goody sold by JC Whitney had to
> come in a half-dozen different voltages? Anything as expensive as a
> stereo COULD have an integrated, wide-range voltage converter, but
> there are a lot of auto gadgets th
On 06/06/2016 03:04 PM, Jan Minnie via EV wrote:
I'm new to this and your discussion has me totally confused. What is
the verdict? Sep 12v Battery for accessories or not??
You should use a 12 v battery as well as a DC/DC converter or alternator
to keep it charged. The 12 volt battery will
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> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
>
>
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Hi Larry and All, You sure can charge your EV from
solar, even directly if you match the solar and pack voltages. Or you can go
dc to dc or dc-ac and back to dc. On a dc home you can
chose low to high voltages. If you pick around 350vdc solar strin
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EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
Is it more expensive to design semiconductors to switch 10 amps at 12 volts,
or 0.4 amps at 300 volts? That's not a rhetorical question: I don't know.
You generally pay by the watt. Similar price to switch 12v at 100a, or
120v at 10a, etc.
You could regulat
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