Using a normal leak detector you can charge system and let sit for an hour,
place detector probe near drain for evap, since Freon is heavier than air
the sensor will go off.
Other methods used are to place sensor in center vent and turn fan on low.
This in my experiences often gives false positive
Trampas wrote:
Using a normal leak detector you can charge system and let sit for an hour,
place detector probe near drain for evap, since Freon is heavier than air
the sensor will go off.
Other methods used are to place sensor in center vent and turn fan on low.
This in my experiences often giv
A conversion to R134A will result in deterioration of all the seal rings in
the hose fittings and compressor.
These leaks are very small individual and almost impossible to detect, but
in concert can bleed the system very fast.
Best remedy is to remove ALL black O-ring seals and replace them with
I will second that -- it took three tries to get the AC working on my
TE for that very reason -- the 0-rings croaked.
Replace the four big ones between the compressor and hose manifold
while you're at it, and the ones between hose manifold and hose set.
Requires pulling the compressor, but yo
I was sort of thinking of flushing out the whole system and converting
it back to AutoFrost, or even R12. Though I know that the HC
refrigerants are NOT good in a leaky system, because the individual
component gasses do not bleed off at the same rate, so if you have
leaks, you end up with a sub-op