Seeing as you want more out of it, I think you should reconsider finding
an alternator shop. They can build it however you want it, and for the
Chryslers it's usually reasonable if not comparable to an autoparts
store replaement in price. Might as well do it right.
-J Southern California Forced
After eating about 5 stock size alternators, I went to Napa and got a 120amp
model. Bolted right in. If I remember correctly, the price was about 30%
more than a 90amp one, but so is the power output. I've had no problems
since. Also, the Napa came with a decent warrantee.
Ean www.theblueba
In a message dated 11/2/2004 9:58:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Are NAPA parts better quality?
definatly!
Chris Pauluk - Modesto CA - NorCalTurboDodge
84 Rampage - _www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo_
(http://www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo)
(or)
What vehicle do you have this in?
You mentioned 1985 Wiring, but what Model vehicle?
Autozone and Napa get there rebuilt alternators from the same places
usually.
-Bryan
-Original Message-
I am throughly frustrated with Autozone and other parts stores and the
quality of the rebuilt alter
In a message dated 11/2/2004 8:35:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Autozone and Napa get there rebuilt alternators from the same places
usually.
-Bryan
maybe on the eastern part of the country..
out here...
autozone = duralast
napa = napa (not affiliated with duralas
Think of it this way--what is there to go wrong inside of these things? Armature
shorting out? Field coil shorting/breaking? Excessive commutator wear? All are
unlikely to happen. It seems to me that the only thing that commonly fails in our
alternators is bearings and brushes, both which a
Sounds like you are talkling about a starter.
The parts common to an Alternator are: Rotor, Stator, Slip Ring, Bearings,
Brushes, Rectifier. (and regulator in most cases)
In the Chrysler Alternators the main thing that goes out is the brushes.
Very cheap to buy.
You could get a set of brushes and
>>The parts common to an Alternator are: Rotor, Stator, Slip Ring,
>>Bearings, Brushes, Rectifier. (and regulator in most cases
YES! Those are the correct terminologies! I'm in electric motor land yet. They do
essentially the same things though. I forgot to suggest the rectifier that can eas
Bryan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Paul T. Standaert
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 11:10 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: SD> Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's
>>The parts common to an Alternator are: Rotor, Stator, Sl
i agree with bryan on killing your alternator when jumping off a dead
battery.
most people think an alternator will eventually recharge a dead battery. this
is simply not the case, an alternator will not fully recharge a dead battery.
most people get this thinking from when cars used generator
oops i meant to say the regulator is in your SMEC, SBEC, or PM.
---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING
Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/
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As I understand it, it has less to do with the fact that it is an
alternator and more to do with the fact that the industry has designed
most of the capacity out of the charging system. In my experience, our
alternators are tougher than many onther out there. But yes, it is
nothing like the good
I found out the hard way about jumping cars about 12 years ago.
My ex-wife lost her timing belt in her Shelby Daytona on her way home from work. She
said the car just died at an intersection and killed the battery trying to restart it.
I went to help. I tried jumping her for quite a while wi
Every new alternator I sell comes with the RPM print out.
-Bryan
>-Original Message-
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Anyway, the moral of the story is that the current rating of a typical
alternator is a *peak* output rating. It cannot sustain anywhere near
that kind of output for long witho
Here you are.
Factory replacement alternator for our 2.2 and 2.5's is the following
numbers
Lester Number (any place should know what that means)
13280, 13304, 13308, 13313
That is 120 amp and a direct bolt in replacement.
This alternator has an 8mm hole
To get the 136 amp you have to get Lester N
I'm not sure if this helps or not but I own a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee with
the 5.2 and when I added an electric fan, the draw was so great that it
started to discharge my battery! A friend of mine said that the "viper"
spec alternator is a direct bolt on and produces much more amps. If that's
the
tor plus another $63 for
the core. As this would be for an off label application (85 Omni) I
don't have a core to return. Ouch.
-- Forwarded message --
From: Bryan Lugert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2004 18:24:00 -0600
Subject: RE: SD> Alternator Optio
In a message dated 11/8/2004 9:29:28 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Anyway, they wanted $160 for the 13280 alternator plus another $63 for
the core. As this would be for an off label application (85 Omni) I
don't have a core to return. Ouch.
just return your stock one
I forgot to mention that the 11mm hole version alternators is what is on the
1989 and up cars.
1988 and older have the 8mm hole.
-Bryan
-Original Message-
Here you are.
Factory replacement alternator for our 2.2 and 2.5's is the following
numbers
Lester Number (any place should know what
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