Hey Steve,
Read your post and was curious what "Mona" looked like.
Searched all over the site but can't locate "Mona".
Vic
- Original Message -
From: "Ciambrone, Steve @ OS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 8:
Why use copper? Brass thin wall tube will give you the external size you
want and the thin wall will give more internal space for the steam/oil to
exchange.
Vic in CA
- Original Message -
From: "Royce Woodbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I really don't know the construction material of your tender or what kind of
access you have for repairs. If I had a leak in a brass tender that I could
reach with either a soldering iron or a resistance soldering unit, that's
the way I'd go. You could do it quick without burning off the paint.
I
I too use Titeabond, but only the Titebond II which is waterproof (above
the waterline says the container). I have quite a few trestle bents and
shingle covered structures that have been left in the garden for 5 plus
years and have remained solid. Just be sure to wipe off excess as it is
yellow.
Vance,
You said in your post "We are remodeling our back yard so it will be more
hospitable to a
railroad..."
It got me to thinking-What are some major points to having a successful live
steam yard layout?
I have a ground level line, and of course some of the weak points of bend
and stoop have been
Hi Mitch and All,
I've had great luck for several years running my gas fired engine and having
power for the "oil lamp". What I did was place the AA battery in the
"firebox" with a switch, and ran the hot lead through a boiler fill/ clack
valve into the smoke box. Then protected it with model ai
I've run across a couple sources for Sandy River plans as well. Try
contacting The Underground Railway Press, POBox 11279, Burke, VA
22009-1279. They aren't available via email, but have quite a variety.
Also a super source for all the SR&RL cars is S.R.&R.L. Passenger Cars by
Gary Kohler. The
;[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 29, 2002 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: suggestions
> At 10:17 AM -0800 11/29/02, The Sagers wrote:
> >Trent,
> >Thanks for forwarding Patrick's Butane info.
> >
Trent,
Thanks for forwarding Patrick's Butane info.
I wonder though how I would be able to fill my gas tank with one of those
Asian Stove containers.
I have a 5/8" deep by 5/8" dia tube with my gas valve down inside. Would I
be able to reach it with an Asian style stove can?(They have that thread
I have a similar problem with a tree. The rather large pine has decided to
lay over to the side while it was young during several different wet windy
winters. This has lifted the track on the root side, and made for
occasional bumped heads on the other, trunk side. I'm hoping it doesn't get
any
Harry and all,
Gee I had to dust off an old metalworking book from my college days to
remember the reason for the slip roll. All I could find was "to permit the
cylinder to be removed without danger of distortion". I also remember
making coil springs on the slip roll and thus you'd need to get
Hi Royce,
You may get by with material commonly used for our boiler lagging-FibreFax
I think it is called. It's similar to asbestos in look/feel but a ceramic
fiber product. I usually place it in my small crucible before I make a lost
wax casting to protect the inner surface of the expensive cru
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