Re: Pfeiffer Field Spray - was Shredders for composting

2002-05-21 Thread Allan Balliett

The recipes for these things are proprietary.  Pfeiffer had a partner in the
General Compost Corp who is still alive and guarding the information.  From
what I know there is the bd remedies and lots of sprouted seeds and a ground
hog or similar substitute, +++ that get composted and run through.  It is
made in a large cement mixer which runs for about thirty days.  There is lots
of redundancy which makes it so intense a product.  The resultant compost is
then formed into cookies and dried to rock hard consistency and then ground
up in a hammermill...make some, I daare ya...SStorch

Steve - Aren't there also incubated bacteria added to this brew? -Allan




RE: Pfeiffer Field Spray - was Shredders for composting

2002-05-21 Thread Stephen Barrow

Thanks Allan and Steve - you have answered a question which no-one has been
able to for the last 10 years.  I'll stick with becoming a dedicated prep
and BC user thanks.

Stephen Barrow




Re: Pfeiffer Field Spray - was Shredders for composting

2002-05-21 Thread SBruno75


In a message dated 5/21/02 7:45:59 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Steve - Aren't there also incubated bacteria added to this brew? -Allan
 

I believe that Pfeiffer isolated the bacteria and fungi active in 500 after 
the stirring process and/or from the raw form...sstorch




Re: Shredders for composting -rye

2002-05-20 Thread Dorothy O'Brien

Allan-- I will be interested to hear more details
about the slurry.  We don't have animals because of
the day jobs, but usually end up with about 50 acres
of this type of rye every year due to cover cropping
before soybeans.  

Usually, we mow it after it has headed out since this
kills it, and then plant into the stubble.  But I
don't think we are getting much fertility value from
the stalks at this point.  I have heard others
recommend that we shoudl disk it in a couple of times
earlier in the srping to get the value from green
manure.  But this doesn't fit into the ridge system,
which we make in the fall.  (The theory is that far
fewer weeds germinate in the spring without srping
tillage.) 

I have also seen rye rolled to kill it, and then
tomatoes planted into the yellow straw--but you
probably don't have acres of tomatoes either...Dorothy
  
  

__
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LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
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Re: Shredders for composting

2002-05-20 Thread SBruno75


In a message dated 5/19/02 11:06:20 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 It takes a very mature cow to be able to properly digest 
winter rye 'grass' or 'hay. 

Winter rye makes straw not hay...I have fed it to my cows green, they really 
like it.  It is very high in silica, actually accumulates it out of the air.  
Excellent stuff for mixing with manure and clay for an old fashion 
beehive...sstorch




Pfeiffer Field Spray - was Shredders for composting

2002-05-20 Thread Stephen Barrow

Allan,

What is the recipe for the Pfeiffer Field Spray and his Compost Starter?  I
have read of them,  but have no idea how to go about making them

Thanks

Stephen Barrow




Re: Pfeiffer Field Spray - was Shredders for composting

2002-05-20 Thread Allan Balliett

Allan,

What is the recipe for the Pfeiffer Field Spray and his Compost Starter?  I
have read of them,  but have no idea how to go about making them

Thanks

Stephen Barrow

Stephen - As far as I know, this is a proprietary product. I buy mine 
from JPI in Woolwine.

I do not have real comparisons, but it is my understanding that the 
field spray is superior to BC as a pre-plow-down spray to spare those 
of us who want to plant too soon after incorporation from losing too 
much nitrogen to decomp.

_Allan




RE: Shredders for composting

2002-05-20 Thread Stephen Barrow

Thanks Lloyd - your suggestion of the straw chopper off a combine is
definitely worth looking into..

Stephen Barrow




Re: Shredders for composting

2002-05-20 Thread Hugh Lovel

Dear Cheryl, Allan, et. al.,

Yes. I mow the stalks to chop them as finely as possible first. Corn
doesn't chop so well, of course. But the spader incorporates things
wonderfully. Then in these beds I sow a winter cover mix of rye, crimson
clover, turnip, rape, mustard and chinese radish (China Rose) as the
brassicas are all rye companions. Then I make a quick, shallow pass over
the seeds with my rototiller to mix the seed in the top couple inches.

Normally on the earlier fall sowings I get hundreds of dollars of
harvestable greens and roots out of these cover crops. If I had the markets
and pickers it could easily be thousands of dollars following my sweet
corn, though my field corn must dry before picking. It gets incorporated
too late for harvestable greens and roots. Nevertheless it is important
income. Then I also mow for green chop for the milk cows and their calves
on into the winter and into spring after market season is over and there's
frost damage, and this yields superior fodder as well as saving on feed
costs as well as pulling a little fertility out of the system so it is not
too lush in spring. With the way I'm doing BD I find corn puts so much
juice into the system it is a good idea to hold it back so the next spring
when I till under the rye things aren't too lush and I don't get too strong
a weed growth.

I recommend spaders. Absolutely. Best tillage action I've ever seen. A
spader's a little slow, but it does everything in one pass.

Best,
Hugh Lovel



Dear Allen,
I remember seeing Hugh Lovels pictures, where he chops his corn down and
does a rough turn in, then sows directly into the green corn trash with a
pasture mix.
Maybe Hugh will come out and discuss this?
Do you have a spader? Wouldnt that do the work for you in turning in - I saw
one recently and the turning in  and bed tillage was fantastic.All ready for
replanting.

Why would you use Pfeiffer sprays if you are already using BC ?(which I
presume has all the BD compost preps in there).

Cheryl

Cheryl Kemp
Education and Workshop Coordinator
BDFGAA
Phone /Fax : 02 6657 5322
Home: 02 6657 5306
email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: www.biodynamics.net.au

- Original Message -
From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: Shredders for composting


 Dear Allan,
 Why not just mow the rye over with a mower and spray with Barrel Compost
and
 then turn in by spade as a green manure, roots and all. Saves a lot of
 effort and still aids the soil.
 Then make a proper compost heap, with your hay and green matter and
manure,
 for later use, and use your last lot of compost turned in with this lot
as
 well on the raised beds.
 Cheryl

 Cheryl -

 Thanks for the suggestions.

 I'm working with acres here, often by myself. I'm going from covered
 soil to raised bed that I transplant into almost immediately, hence
 the raking off of the heavy organic matter, which, incidentally,
 extension agents in these parts do not feel contribute substantially
 to organic matter if turned in (roots, which remain in my beds being
 the greatest contributers and of mass equal to the tops). I do BC the
 beds right after spading-lifting-tilling. If I had money-time, I'd be
 hitting all the beds with Pfeiffer Field Spray, also.

 Please let me know if I've misunderstood what you are saying. It is
 not my experience that I can get right into the beds if I plow down
 'full grown' rye, even with BC

 -Allan


Visit our website at: www.unionag.org




Re: Shredders for composting

2002-05-19 Thread Peter Michael Bacchus

In my experience it pays to mix all materials going into a compost heap. I
have always retuned between 10% to 25% old compost mixed in with the new
materials. I have often made composts using large quantities of grass
collected in a forage harvester and even when tumble mixed with a bobcat
there was still pockets of silage in the heap. this means that the heap
needs turning fairly soon after the initial setup to get air into them. If
one is hand making the compost  this problem is much easier to avoid.
best wishes,
Peter.




Re: Shredders for composting

2002-05-19 Thread Allan Balliett

Dear Allan,
Why not just mow the rye over with a mower and spray with Barrel Compost and
then turn in by spade as a green manure, roots and all. Saves a lot of
effort and still aids the soil.
Then make a proper compost heap, with your hay and green matter and manure,
for later use, and use your last lot of compost turned in with this lot as
well on the raised beds.
Cheryl

Cheryl -

Thanks for the suggestions.

I'm working with acres here, often by myself. I'm going from covered 
soil to raised bed that I transplant into almost immediately, hence 
the raking off of the heavy organic matter, which, incidentally, 
extension agents in these parts do not feel contribute substantially 
to organic matter if turned in (roots, which remain in my beds being 
the greatest contributers and of mass equal to the tops). I do BC the 
beds right after spading-lifting-tilling. If I had money-time, I'd be 
hitting all the beds with Pfeiffer Field Spray, also.

Please let me know if I've misunderstood what you are saying. It is 
not my experience that I can get right into the beds if I plow down 
'full grown' rye, even with BC

-Allan




RE: Shredders for composting

2002-05-19 Thread Stephen Barrow

Thanks for the reply.

The thing is, I don't know how small to shred compost material!  I find that
making compost with unshredded material just increases the amount of work,
especially when turning.  We do everything by hand, so need to make
composting making as easy on the body as possible.

Also, due to South Africa's semi-arid climate, the rate of soil organic
matter mineralization is more than 5 times that in Europe.  Conservative
estimates mentioned during a conference last week ranged from 200 - 300 tons
per hectare in year 1, 100 tons for the next two years, before repeating the
cycle again.  Some farmers double those amounts.

Thus, optimised compost making, with minimised energy and labour inputs are
essential.  Therefore sieving is just an extra handling process, which I
don't want to get into.  I have had this experience in an urban garden and
simply cannot afford to go that route now that I am working a larger area.

Care to expand on your ideas of a roller / crusher?

Thanks

Stephen Barrow

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 1:14 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Shredders for composting


Why do you want to shred something so small???  It would be gone soon
anyway.
 If it is not done, screen and re-compost.  You would be better of with a
slow moving heavy weight roller to crush and expose more surface area, less
parts to wear and bend and fix.  SStorch




Re: Shredders for composting

2002-05-19 Thread ...

I like Steve's suggestion for crushing with a roller. I did a bit of that
when i had access to a clean concrete slab for a while. My 5' roller, filled
with water weighs about 1200lbs.,and worked well, except for some of the
larger woody turnips which wouldnt get squeezed in front of the roller's
grip. It was hard work by hand when the material built up, and i slipped
into it on occasion, getting a run on it. That's as far as i got before
thinking of making a long handle extension to the tractor hitch for going
back and forth totally clear of the slab with the tractor.
Of course this required shovelling up into wheelbarrows/wagon, spreading
straw and min.soil in between layers, and sawdust around the edges of the
slab to soak up the valuable juices. Volume is a factor. Obviously it would
be ideal to just fling the mix into an established heap on one side ot the
slab.
I have also used an old electric lawnmower,with a mulching blade, suspended
upside down on a 45degree angle, and with the lower part of the shroud-rim
cut away. I used an old piece of furnace duct/plenum as a chute above it,
and had a small enclosed wagon underneath(.less shovelling). The
cuttings were randomly adequate with different materials, but it all helped
the disint. process.
For loose straw,spread out, i always drove back and forth over it with the
riding mower set high, till the lengths were suitable.
I am definitely saving for a strawbale chopper, commonly used for
short-piece poultry bedding, etc.
I plan to use the short material as a consistent mulch for some plants. It's
so easy to move around the stems.
I have also combined saved bags of (dry) tree leaves spread out, with long
green lengths of scythe-cut rye and clover strewn over them...and drove over
it with the tractor/rotary mower. This mixed very well, and was relatively
easy to scoop with a manurefork. This is done on my main grassed drive-
paths- as- a -work -area. They are cut often enough that i dont worry about
many weed seeds coming along in the mix.
I've mentioned this before as my favorite procedure for fine tuning a
compost mix:
If you have a manure wagon, adding an inverted U-shaped hood over/behind the
beater bar,(to contain/deflect the flailing goodies) you can mix into it all
the ingredients in any combination, or as it's available, in appropriate
layers, wetting as/if needed, adding 500 or BC ,and  then PTO-flail it out
into one heap , no turning afterwards.just insert preps and cover with
straw/soil.
If it seems too warm, attach a long multi- hole-drilled pipe to an
aircompressor, and inject at different places.
That said and done, i wouldn't do any turning,chopping if not necessary,
.and time is on your side.
..manfred




Re: Shredders for composting

2002-05-19 Thread Cheryl Kemp

Dear Allen,
I remember seeing Hugh Lovels pictures, where he chops his corn down and
does a rough turn in, then sows directly into the green corn trash with a
pasture mix.
Maybe Hugh will come out and discuss this?
Do you have a spader? Wouldnt that do the work for you in turning in - I saw
one recently and the turning in  and bed tillage was fantastic.All ready for
replanting.

Why would you use Pfeiffer sprays if you are already using BC ?(which I
presume has all the BD compost preps in there).

Cheryl

Cheryl Kemp
Education and Workshop Coordinator
BDFGAA
Phone /Fax : 02 6657 5322
Home: 02 6657 5306
email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: www.biodynamics.net.au

- Original Message -
From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: Shredders for composting


 Dear Allan,
 Why not just mow the rye over with a mower and spray with Barrel Compost
and
 then turn in by spade as a green manure, roots and all. Saves a lot of
 effort and still aids the soil.
 Then make a proper compost heap, with your hay and green matter and
manure,
 for later use, and use your last lot of compost turned in with this lot
as
 well on the raised beds.
 Cheryl

 Cheryl -

 Thanks for the suggestions.

 I'm working with acres here, often by myself. I'm going from covered
 soil to raised bed that I transplant into almost immediately, hence
 the raking off of the heavy organic matter, which, incidentally,
 extension agents in these parts do not feel contribute substantially
 to organic matter if turned in (roots, which remain in my beds being
 the greatest contributers and of mass equal to the tops). I do BC the
 beds right after spading-lifting-tilling. If I had money-time, I'd be
 hitting all the beds with Pfeiffer Field Spray, also.

 Please let me know if I've misunderstood what you are saying. It is
 not my experience that I can get right into the beds if I plow down
 'full grown' rye, even with BC

 -Allan





Re: Shredders for composting

2002-05-19 Thread Frank Teuton

Allan,

One way to handle green rye is given in Plowman's Folly by Faulkner, not
suitable for your raised bed thing, but then, in me humble opinion, neither
is rye, period.

A winterkill crop like oats or ryegrass would be better suited especially
since you have acres to mow before you sleep, eh?

I believe, and someone jump down my throat if I am wrong, that you can make
hay out of green rye and then feed it to animals. The hay part means you can
save it and feed it only as needed. The animal part means they will work it
into a green slurry for you, and then even produce milk, meat, wool, in the
bargain. Yeah, you'll get a little less green slurry that way, but believe
me, making anything like cereal rye into a green slurry takes more
horsepower or patience than most of us likely have, plus your time might be
better spent elsewhere.

A simpleton's solution might be to mow and leave beside your raised bed for
use as a mulch later on. You'll lose some magic to leaching and such, but
it'll be right there when you need it.maybe in the fall?

In the tractor tool scheme, I think something like a silage chopper might do
enough to beat up the stuff for composting well without the overkill implied
in 'green slurry', at least to my mind.

Re late frosts, if it makes you feel any better (misery loving company and
all) they had one in the Niagara region of Ontario too.

You should expect late frosts, you know after Blue Ridge comes the 'M' word,
eh?  At least from time to timebut those vineyards in the Niagara region
don't expect it.

On to small scale things, I grew rye to maturity once in a small patch, Gene
Logsdon-like, and used the dry straw both chopped and wholeboth ways
worked to deliver aeration into the green stuff.

I certainly agree with what's been said about getting a mix of sizes and
shapes of materials for composting. I am, since my youth, a big fan of
rameal chipped wood for a bulking agent and fungal food in composting, as
well as a dandy mulch for the right crops

I have used a 5 HP chipper shredder to cut up straw, and expect it would
work best on green rye if fed in bundles, butt end first. Probably also best
to feed it right after cutting while the turgor is still there. I would take
my screen off completely, letting the front cutter and the hammermills do
all the chopping and roughing work.

Mixing grassclippings, straw/leaves, and wood chips in about equal volumes,
by running them together through this shredder, I never failed to get 150 F
temps when I wanted them.

Most of the grass clippings go in thin layers on the worm beds now, though,
which saves a lot of annoying ahrimanic shredder work. They get sandwiched
between layers of leaves for the sake of C:N balancing.

The long and short of it, Allan, is there are likely several different
things you could do with your mown rye. I agree with you that none of them
include incorporating it immediately and then planting soon.

I hope for your sake it is far enough along to actually be killed by mowing.

There is technology out there of all shapes and sizes, able to shred
everything from giant tree roots to little office envelopes. If you just
want to scarify the stuff enough so that the 'crobes can get into it,
putting it under your macroherd for some time ought to work, and that was
just what Sir Albert did. 'Trampled underfoot' isn't just about the subway
rush in New York, you know... A layer of green rye, stomp, stomp, stomp, a
layer of straw, leaves, or wood chips, stomp, stomp, stomp, some more green
rye, stomp, stomp, stomp, a bit of manure falls in, plop, plop, plop-get
it? :-)

Frank Teuton---has recently been reminded of the power of hooves, from
Belgian horses to sheep, and even birds can scratch up compostables a
bityou might call it 'macro-comminution' if you've been spending too
much time at sites like this one:

http://www.earthlife.net/insects/isopoda.html


- Original Message -
From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 8:22 AM
Subject: Re: Shredders for composting


 Dear Allan,
 Why not just mow the rye over with a mower and spray with Barrel Compost
and
 then turn in by spade as a green manure, roots and all. Saves a lot of
 effort and still aids the soil.
 Then make a proper compost heap, with your hay and green matter and
manure,
 for later use, and use your last lot of compost turned in with this lot
as
 well on the raised beds.
 Cheryl

 Cheryl -

 Thanks for the suggestions.

 I'm working with acres here, often by myself. I'm going from covered
 soil to raised bed that I transplant into almost immediately, hence
 the raking off of the heavy organic matter, which, incidentally,
 extension agents in these parts do not feel contribute substantially
 to organic matter if turned in (roots, which remain in my beds being
 the greatest contributers and of mass equal to the tops). I do BC the
 beds right after spading-lifting-tilling. If I had

Re: Shredders for composting

2002-05-19 Thread Allan Balliett

I believe, and someone jump down my throat if I am wrong, that you can make
hay out of green rye and then feed it to animals. The hay part means you can
save it and feed it only as needed. The animal part means they will work it
into a green slurry for you, and then even produce milk, meat, wool, in the
bargain. Yeah, you'll get a little less green slurry that way, but believe
me, making anything like cereal rye into a green slurry takes more
horsepower or patience than most of us likely have, plus your time might be
better spent elsewhere.

Frank - It takes a very mature cow to be able to properly digest 
winter rye 'grass' or 'hay.' That pretty much excludes we stocker 
scheme folks, who are working with animals less than 2 years old. It 
would take a lot of rabbits to eat the stacks of rye that I have , 
but I'll try some of it on some of them tomorrow. -Allan




Re: Shredders for composting

2002-05-18 Thread SBruno75

Why do you want to shred something so small???  It would be gone soon anyway. 
 If it is not done, screen and re-compost.  You would be better of with a 
slow moving heavy weight roller to crush and expose more surface area, less 
parts to wear and bend and fix.  SStorch




Re: Shredders for composting

2002-05-18 Thread Anthony Nelson-Smith

I find a small shredder (bought, not home-made!) invaluable for making shrub
trimmings up to about 3/4 diam, and often several feet long, suitable for
inclusion in compost.  I can't see how else these could be processed?   Tony
N-S.




Re: Shredders for composting

2002-05-18 Thread D S Chamberlain

I used to compost lawn clippings from a local mowing contractor. The main
problem I struck with the fine clippings was that it tended to pack down and
restrict the air in the pile. This made frequent turning necessary After
listening to E. Ingham and putting my brain into gear, I have come to the
conclusion that heavy coarse particles are necessary in the mix, finely
chopped grass breaks down quicker but has disadvantages. It appears the
larger the range of ingredients and textures the better.
David C
- Original Message -
From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, 19 May 2002 2:00 AM
Subject: Re: Shredders for composting


 What about my situation?

 I'm cutting overwintered rye off from raised bed and getting ready to
 compost it with cow manure (to re-apply to the same beds) I'm
 thinking about putting the cut rye into a bin and dropping a rotary
 mower on it, to chop it to a green slurry. (I think Hugh has
 suggested this)

 But again, I think, why not just layer the whole green straw with the
manure?

 I'd like to hear about other's experiences with the whole and the chopped.

 thanks

 _Allan






Shredders for composting

2002-05-16 Thread Stephen Barrow

Hi All,

Does anybody have experience with making a shredder or similar device?  I
have a cylinder made from 5 mm thick plate, which I wish to use as the basis
for a shredder.  I envisage having rotary blades chopping against fixed
blades as the first stage, and, lower down, chain flails to smash up the
chopped bits.  This would be for shredding material upto cabbage stem size
and toughness.

A young mechanical engineer has indicated his willingness to design and help
build the shredder, and will thus take care of safety aspects, size of
engine, etc.  We don't want to reinvent the wheel, so to speak, and at the
same time, wish to limit the amount of experimentation before getting it
right.  Therefore, I would appreciate it if anybody has ideas and plans for
building an efficient shredder.

Thanks for the help.

Stephen Barrow