Re: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.

[Max Robinson]

It comes with a split double door.  That was a part of the consideration.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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- Original Message - 
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.


> Yes, size is my concern too. Max might consider a split double door.
>
>
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 9:29 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.
>
>
>>
>>
>> Hey Max,
>> About two years ago a friend erected a similar shed for his workshop.
>> I just got to talk to him about it and he made 3 suggestions and I 
>> believe
>> that you are aware of some of them. First he was instructed to prepair 
>> the
>> location by first removing all grass. It will prevent it from rotting
>> under
>> the shed. He was also advised to have a level course of crushed stone to
>> allow for water drainage. He used about 3 inches  of 2B stone. He could
>> have
>> used a concrete slab but it was too expensive.
>> He quickly changed his door plan to a 4 foot wide door from a garage type
>> because of taxes. The garage door would qualify it as a garage and his
>> taxes
>> would go up about $250 a year the shed increased his taxes by $10.
>> His shed is 16x24. He is now in the process of insulating the shed. It is
>> too cold for him in the winter.
>> Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>> or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
>> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>>
>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>> List Members At The Following address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>>
>> Visit the new archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>> list just send a blank message to:
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>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.16.1/611 - Release Date: 
>> 31/12/2006
>>
>>
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 



To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric "house wiring" question: Hi electric folks:

[Bill Gallik]

>From your post I'm inclined to believe you have a fuse box rather than a
breaker box? If it were a breaker box I would suggest turning off all power
via the main breaker, but not having dealt with a fuse box in decades I
can't recall how one would turn off all power with a fuse box.  At any rate,
this is the point; turn off all power so you won't have to worry about
turning off power to the appropriate circuit.

Now, if the only things not working are the outlet and the light then you
probably have a loose wire somewhere in that circuit.  Just this Christmas
the outlet that the tree was plugged in to stopped working and when I
attempted to change that outlet I found that one of the wires had
inexplicably disconnected from the outlet; this is quite possibly what
happened in your case and is very easy to correct.  But of course you'll
want the power to that circuit off and if you dont know which circuit to
turn off you'll want all power off.  Just remove the outlet and if you have
a "dangling" wire in the box you probably have a fix right there in front of
you.



Bill Gallik
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
- "If winning isn't everything, why do they keep score?"
- Vince Lombardi




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

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[BlindHandyMan] shelf pin jig

[Lenny McHugh]

Hi All,
Since I made my first primitive jig I purchased one that I really like.
MLCS_shelf_pin_drilling_jig
Drill quick and accurate shelf pin holes in any project. The shelf pin holes 
are precisely spaced 1-1/4" apart at either 37mm or 64mm from the edge of your
work. Any length my be drilled by indexing the jig with a shelf pin. Includes 
both a 1/4" and 5mm self centering bit.


Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric "house wiring" question:

[R & S Enterprises]

This is a very idea to check first.  I would usually remove the main cover and 
check power on the breaker or fuse.  Amazing how many breakers will be tripped 
and not appear to be.  
As for doing without it I don't see any hazard.  If the light is flickering off 
and on then you have sparking which is not good.
If you wish to fix this I would open up the switch box first, then the outlet 
box and finally the ceiling box.  At one of these places I would guess a wire 
connection has corrorded or overheated.  You did say a electric heater had been 
on this.  These can be heavy current pullers and if it was a marginal 
connection to begin with it may have overheated and broken down..  But I am 
betting that puulling wires out of the boxes will show something coming apart 
in your hand.  If you turn the light to the on position and plug a light into 
the outlet and have someone watching one or both may flash as soon as you get 
into a box which helps locate the problem.  A good pair of leather or rubber 
gloves would be advised if you have real poor vision.  Once it stays on a 
little then you can find the correct breaker to shut off.  Killing the main 
should shut it off but not if it is wired from the other residence.  Good luck.
Yes it might even be in a outlet just before these two.  Banging on the wall 
around these others may show something if the first three don't show something. 
 If not then you would have to open up everything close to the area.  
Most people will wire so all junctions are accessable from the living quarter 
but it isn't impossible.  The junctions just have to be assesible, not easy 
access.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: NLG 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 8:10 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric "house wiring" question:


  I would suspect that there is a blown fuse or tripped breaker. You said 
duplex. Is there separate electrical services for each of the two residences? 
If so, you should check all the fuses or breakers for both residents. You may 
find a blown fuse or tripped breaker for your neighbor that is for the 
receptacle and light in the hall.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 20:38
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Electric "house wiring" question:

  In our 1960s build duplex, we have a single outlet and a hall
  light that have failed. Due to this failure I moved the portable
  heater which was the only thing on that outlet to anothere socket,
  unknowingly putting it on the same circuit as a bathroom ceiling
  fan/heater combo. Not surprisingly when both heaters were on, the
  fuse blew.

  Replaced the fuse, all is well and we'll just not run both
  heaters at same time. There is no where else to plug in the
  portable heater.

  My questions are:
  1. how paranoid should I be about a single portion of a circuit
  that has failed? If I can do without that socket and light, can
  I just forget them?

  2. If not, how might one go about figuring out what's wrong? I
  don't even know which circuit the failed systems are on. I
  believe the wiring is in the attic crawl space which is now full
  of glass insulation, so not a wonderfull place to go crawling
  about following wires even were I so inclined.

  Thoughts from those with more house type experience would be
  appreciated. I do not want to call an electrician unless real
  danger might be involved, I can do without the outlet and hall
  light.

  thanks

  tom

  Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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http

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling Shelf Pin Holes

[John Schwery]

I have used an awl, tapping it good with a hammer 
to make a nice hole into which to put the bit.

earlier, Dale Leavens, wrote:

>Rae
>
>If you can do that you either have much better touch than I do or a lot more
>sight!
>
>Accurately placing the point of a bit on the intersecting point of scribed
>lines by touch takes one heck of a lot of skill in my experience. I can't
>usually get the tip into the middle of a hole in something like a hinge
>without using a center punch to mark the hole.
>
>Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Skype DaleLeavens
>Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>- Original Message -
>From: "Ray Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 7:47 PM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling Shelf Pin Holes
>
> > Hi
> > Drilling shelf pin holes is easy if you follow a few simple steps.
> > Installing Adjustable Shelf Pins
> > Consistency Is Key
> >
> > Adjustable shelving is a common feature of virtually any type of cabinet
> > and a simple way to increase the versatility of the project.
> >
> > Drilling the cabinet sides to accept the pins that support the shelves
> > is
> > easier than you might think. The most important part of the process is
> > being
> > consistent. Since each shelf is supported by a pair of pins at each end,
> > the
> > holes must be level for the installed shelf to be level. The good news is
> > you can handle this task with basic equipment in a minimal amount of time.
> >
> > A 6" combination square is perfect for laying out the pin hole locations.
> > Here the blade is used to trace the vertical lines onto the cabinet side
> > piece.
> >
> > Drilling Options
> >
> > The goal of drilling is to produce holes that are accurately aligned to
> > each other front to back and equally spaced vertically. In addition, the
> > holes
> > must fit the pins closely, be 90-degrees to the side and deep enough for
> > the
> > pin to seat fully.
> >
> > While a hand-held drill can be used, it must be held exactly 90-degrees
> > to the surface and very steady to avoid increasing the diameter of the
> > holes.
> > If the holes are not precise, the pins will hang and the shelf will rock
> > or
> > tilt.
> >
> > Using a drill press is by far the easiest way to eliminate nearly all of
> > these problems. Even the most basic drill press is capable of drilling
> > shelf
> > pin holes quickly and accurately. I have drilled shelf pin holes with a
> > 10",
> > benchtop press for years with no problems.
> >
> > The blade on my 6" combination square is 3/4"-wide, perfect for spacing
> > the
> > rows of pin locations.
> >
> > Jigs
> >
> > Manufactured jigs that vary widely in price and capabilities are
> > available for drilling shelf pin holes. Common pegboard can be used to
> > build
> > a drilling
> > jig but has liabilities as well. If the cabinet has a recessed back panel,
> > two jigs may be necessary. In addition, pegboard is very soft and the
> > holes
> > easily enlarged during drilling, greatly reducing accuracy.
> >
> > Layout
> >
> > A very accurate layout can be drawn quickly using a simple combination
> > square and a sharp Scriber. Creating a simple grid on the cabinet sides
> > makes drilling
> > an accurate set of holes easy, particularly on a drill press.
> >
> > The pins should be set in from the edges of the shelf sufficiently to
> > limit their visibility while maximizing support. Set the blade of the
> > square
> > to
> > locate the forward line of holes and draw that line on both cabinet sides,
> > top to bottom.
> >
> > fast and simple.
> >
> > Because most cabinets have a rabbet that recesses the back panel, the
> > rear line of holes must be set in from the edge of that rabbet. With the
> > square
> > adjusted as needed, draw the line for the rear line of pins on both
> > cabinet
> > sides.
> >
> > Start laying out the horizontal lines by finding the vertical center of
> > the cabinet sides and drawing a line across the width making sure to cross
> > both
> > vertical layout lines.
> >
> > The vertical spacing between the rows of holes can be whatever you like
> > but I find ¾" works very well. This also is the width of the blade on most
> > 6"
> > combination squares. Using the blade itself to space the lines of holes
> > makes this part of the layout fast, simple and all but goof-proof.
> >
> > The holes should be slightly deeper than the length of the pin to insure a
> > flush fit.
> >
> > Align the edge of the blade to the centerline and draw a line along the
> > other side of it. Move the square down, register the blade with that line
> > and
> > repeat the process until you get close to the end of the cabinet side. Go
> > back to the center and draw lines on the remaining half of that piece. Do
> > the
> > same on the other cabinet side and the grids will match

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric "house wiring" question: Hi electric folks:

[Dale Leavens]

Hi Tom,

There isn't much danger leaving them unused however it is already a nuisance 
to you.

I don't think there is any need to go crawling about in the attic space 
though, my bet is that there is a bad connection probably in the outlet but 
possibly in the overhead light box depending on how the wiring circuit is 
arranged.

I had a situation that sounds like yours several years ago when living in 
rented accommodation in Dawson Creek, a dead light. I had the landlord send 
the electrician around but with no luck. Finally I decided that the circuit 
must enter the plug then move on to the light. This is exactly what I found, 
one pair of wires to two terminals of the plug so it worked, the other two 
terminals had wires on them too which went on to the light however one had 
come loose. I screwed it back down and the light immediately came back to 
life.

It is possible but a little early that your home is wired with aluminum 
which is now known to be unsafe if not well installed because of oxidation 
which can add substantial resistance. This offers a heat and therefore a 
fire hazard but it can even be sufficient to form an insulator. I think 
though it was mid '70s when it was widely used for under a decade so you are 
probably too early for that.

You need to discover the circuit so you can pull the fuse before poking 
about in that electrical box safely unless you are a fairly brave man with 
wonderful rubber gloves. Either that failing outlet or the point immediately 
up stream probably has one bad connection. Find it and tighten it back down 
and all should be well again.

It could be a connector, probably a Marz or wire nut in the overhead box in 
the ceiling light they often go bad, work a little loose. You will have to 
take down the fixture to expose the wires in that box, if there is a bad 
connector I would just replace it rather than reuse it but if you can make a 
good connection there probably isn't a good reason not to reuse it.

You do really need to figure out which circuit you are into though unless 
you don't mind the shock risk.

Worse case scenario is to turn off all of the power then open the boxes.

I would love to hear what you find.

Another possibility. Was the plug switched with the light? If so, 
occasionally a light switch will fail. I replaced one in that rented house 
in BC, with a two dollar switch. There was a 25 cent sticker still on the 
one I took out!

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Fowle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 8:38 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Electric "house wiring" question: Hi electric 
folks:


> In our 1960s build duplex, we have a single outlet and a hall
> light that have failed. Due to this failure I moved the portable
> heater which was the only thing on that outlet to anothere socket,
> unknowingly putting it on the same circuit as a bathroom ceiling
> fan/heater combo. Not surprisingly when both heaters were on, the
> fuse blew.
>
> Replaced the fuse, all is well and we'll just not run both
> heaters at same time.  There is no where else to plug in the
> portable heater.
>
> My questions are:
> 1. how paranoid should I be about a single portion of a circuit
> that has failed?  If I can do without that socket and light, can
> I just forget them?
>
> 2. If not, how might one go about figuring out what's wrong?  I
> don't even know which circuit the failed systems are on.  I
> believe the wiring is in the attic crawl space which is now full
> of glass insulation, so not a wonderfull place to go crawling
> about following wires even were I so inclined.
>
> Thoughts from those with more house type experience would be
> appreciated.  I do not want to call an electrician unless real
> danger might be involved, I can do without the outlet and hall
> light.
>
> thanks
>
> tom
>
>
> Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>
>
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.16.1/611 - Release Date

[BlindHandyMan] Top 11 Hand Tools Every Woodworker Needs

[Ray Boyce]

Hi All
If you're not sure what hand tools you'll need to get started in 
woodworking, this list  should help. Below are the Top 11 hand tools you'll 
need for nearly
any woodworking project.

1)
Claw Hammer (Finish Head)
Everyone has used a hammer at some point in their lives. While there are 
many types, the most versatile is the claw hammer with a smooth, slightly 
rounded
finish head. Choose one that is not too heavy, but feels good in your hand. 
I prefer a 20 oz. model.

2)
6" Speed Square
A Speed Square is an invaluable woodworking tool. Not only is it probably 
the quickest and easiest tool for marking a square line for an end cut, but 
can
be used to quickly mark any angle up to 45-degrees or measure up to six 
inches. I keep one in my back pocket or nail pouch whenever I'm in the shop.

3)
25' Retractable Tape Measure
A Retractable Tape Measure is another tool that is an absolute must for any 
woodworker. A quality tape measure should have both Standard and Metric 
markings,
a locking mechanism and a slightly loose hook on the end of the tape. The 
hook is loose on it's rivets by design so the user will get accurate results
whether the tape is used to take internal or external measurements.

4)
Utility Knife
A Utility Knife with a locking mechanism that uses disposable razor blades 
is another requirement for the woodworker. This versatile cutting device can
be used for scribing a mark in a piece of stock, cleaning up a hinge mortise 
or any of a hundred other times when a knife is needed.

5) Chisels
The Chisel is another essential woodworking tool. A finely-sharpened chisel 
is perfect for cleaning out waste from joints and mortises. I like to keep 
one
each of 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" and 1" width bevel-edged chisels within easy reach.

6)
Level
When you need to know if a piece of stock is perfectly horizontal (level) or 
vertical (plumb), you need a level. I like to keep two levels available: one
relatively long level (I use a 28" or 36") and a short, 6" Torpedo Level.
For us an Audible Level is the go.

7) Screwdrivers
Like the claw hammer, everybody has used a screwdriver at least once or 
twice in their lives. I keep a few versions in my shop: #1, 2 and 3 sizes of 
both
Phillips and Flathead varieties, as well as a couple of square head, Torx 
and star drivers.

8) Sliding Bevel
A Sliding Bevel is very similar to a square, except that it can be adjusted 
to any angle and locked in place using a locking mechanism. This is very 
handy
when an angle needs to be duplicated.

9) Nail Sets
A nail set looks somewhat like a small, round chisel, but is used to sink 
nail heads flush or just beneath the wood's surface. I keep three different 
sizes
in my pouch.

10) Block Plane
The last absolute necessity every woodworker should have is a small block 
plane. This device is used for shaving thin amounts of wood away from the 
stock,
and is invaluable for cleaning up edges during assembly.
11. Hand Saws are a Valuable Necessity they come in many shapes and sizes 
without which woodworkers could not cut stock.
I am sure Many of us have our favourite collection of must have tools.
Many beginners with an interest in woodworking are concerned that they'll 
have to buy a whole garage full of power tools to get started. That simply 
isn't
the case. There are really only seven woodworking tools that I would 
recommend any beginning woodworker strive to have on hand from the start, 
and most
are relatively inexpensive. However, with these seven tools, a beginner can 
take on a considerable number of projects.

The following woodworking tools are listed in order of importance.

1)
Circular Saw
Probably the most basic and versatile handheld power tool, in the hands of 
an experienced user, the circular saw can substitute for many other tools. 
While
it takes some practice for most beginners to get comfortable with a circular 
saw, it quickly becomes a standby tool to handle a lot of cutting tasks very
quickly. This should be the first of the power woodworking tools every 
beginning woodworker should consider.

2)
Power Drill
While cordless drills are very popular and convenient, corded drills are a 
bit more versatile and have the power to handle a number of drilling tasks. 
Additionally,
corded drills are variable speed, which allows the user to drill anywhere 
from a very slow RPM all the way up to the drill's top speed. I'd recommend 
a
quality 3/8-inch corded version for the beginner's first drill.
3)
Jigsaw
The third tool for the beginner is the Jigsaw. A jigsaw allows the user to 
cut curved and circular patterns in stock. For versatility, choose an 
orbital-action,
corded model that feels good in your hand and has an easy blade changing 
system.

4)
Random Orbital Sander
The fourth most important tool every beginner should buy is a random orbital 
sander. While palm sanders are less expensive and can use plain sandpaper,
the random orbital version doesn't sand in patterns, but in a random motion. 
This will reduc

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling Shelf Pin Holes

[Ray Boyce]

Hi Dale

You hit the nail right on the head by using a centre punch or a nail punch 
without punching this into the cross reference points is indeed impossible.
Even when I am drilling steel I make sure I have a really good centre punch 
mark in the steel.
It is so easy to have the drill run out of position.
Ray - Original Message - 
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 12:43 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling Shelf Pin Holes


> Rae
>
> If you can do that you either have much better touch than I do or a lot 
> more
> sight!
>
> Accurately placing the point of a bit on the intersecting point of scribed
> lines by touch takes one heck of a lot of skill in my experience. I can't
> usually get the tip  into the middle of a hole in something like a hinge
> without using a center punch to mark the hole.
>
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Ray Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 7:47 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling Shelf Pin Holes
>
>
>> Hi
>> Drilling shelf pin holes is easy if you follow a few simple steps.
>> Installing Adjustable Shelf Pins
>> Consistency Is Key
>>
>>   Adjustable shelving is a common feature of virtually any type of 
>> cabinet
>> and a simple way to increase the versatility of the project.
>>
>>   Drilling the cabinet sides to accept the pins that support the shelves
>> is
>> easier than you might think. The most important part of the process is
>> being
>> consistent. Since each shelf is supported by a pair of pins at each end,
>> the
>> holes must be level for the installed shelf to be level. The good news is
>> you can handle this task with basic equipment in a minimal amount of 
>> time.
>>
>> A 6" combination square is perfect for laying out the pin hole locations.
>> Here the blade is used to trace the vertical lines onto the cabinet side
>> piece.
>>
>> Drilling Options
>>
>>   The goal of drilling is to produce holes that are accurately aligned to
>> each other front to back and equally spaced vertically. In addition, the
>> holes
>> must fit the pins closely, be 90-degrees to the side and deep enough for
>> the
>> pin to seat fully.
>>
>>   While a hand-held drill can be used, it must be held exactly 90-degrees
>> to the surface and very steady to avoid increasing the diameter of the
>> holes.
>> If the holes are not precise, the pins will hang and the shelf will rock
>> or
>> tilt.
>>
>>   Using a drill press is by far the easiest way to eliminate nearly all 
>> of
>> these problems. Even the most basic drill press is capable of drilling
>> shelf
>> pin holes quickly and accurately. I have drilled shelf pin holes with a
>> 10",
>> benchtop press for years with no problems.
>>
>> The blade on my 6" combination square is 3/4"-wide, perfect for spacing
>> the
>> rows of pin locations.
>>
>> Jigs
>>
>>   Manufactured jigs that vary widely in price and capabilities are
>> available for drilling shelf pin holes. Common pegboard can be used to
>> build
>> a drilling
>> jig but has liabilities as well. If the cabinet has a recessed back 
>> panel,
>> two jigs may be necessary. In addition, pegboard is very soft and the
>> holes
>> easily enlarged during drilling, greatly reducing accuracy.
>>
>> Layout
>>
>>   A very accurate layout can be drawn quickly using a simple combination
>> square and a sharp Scriber. Creating a simple grid on the cabinet sides
>> makes drilling
>> an accurate set of holes easy, particularly on a drill press.
>>
>>   The pins should be set in from the edges of the shelf sufficiently to
>> limit their visibility while maximizing support. Set the blade of the
>> square
>> to
>> locate the forward line of holes and draw that line on both cabinet 
>> sides,
>> top to bottom.
>>
>> fast and simple.
>>
>>   Because most cabinets have a rabbet that recesses the back panel, the
>> rear line of holes must be set in from the edge of that rabbet. With the
>> square
>> adjusted as needed, draw the line for the rear line of pins on both
>> cabinet
>> sides.
>>
>>   Start laying out the horizontal lines by finding the vertical center of
>> the cabinet sides and drawing a line across the width making sure to 
>> cross
>> both
>> vertical layout lines.
>>
>>   The vertical spacing between the rows of holes can be whatever you like
>> but I find ¾" works very well. This also is the width of the blade on 
>> most
>> 6"
>> combination squares. Using the blade itself to space the lines of holes
>> makes this part of the layout fast, simple and all but goof-proof.
>>
>> The holes should be slightly deeper than the length of the pin to insure 
>> a
>> flush fit.
>>
>>   Align the edge of the blade to the centerline and draw a line along the
>> other side of it. Move the square down, register the blade with that line
>> and
>> repeat t

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric "house wiring" question:

[NLG]

I would suspect that there is a blown fuse or tripped breaker.  You said 
duplex.  Is there separate electrical services for each of the two residences?  
If so, you should check all the fuses or breakers for both residents.  You may 
find a blown fuse or tripped breaker for your neighbor that is for the 
receptacle and light in the hall.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 20:38
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Electric "house wiring" question:


  In our 1960s build duplex, we have a single outlet and a hall
  light that have failed. Due to this failure I moved the portable
  heater which was the only thing on that outlet to anothere socket,
  unknowingly putting it on the same circuit as a bathroom ceiling
  fan/heater combo. Not surprisingly when both heaters were on, the
  fuse blew.

  Replaced the fuse, all is well and we'll just not run both
  heaters at same time. There is no where else to plug in the
  portable heater.

  My questions are:
  1. how paranoid should I be about a single portion of a circuit
  that has failed? If I can do without that socket and light, can
  I just forget them?

  2. If not, how might one go about figuring out what's wrong? I
  don't even know which circuit the failed systems are on. I
  believe the wiring is in the attic crawl space which is now full
  of glass insulation, so not a wonderfull place to go crawling
  about following wires even were I so inclined.

  Thoughts from those with more house type experience would be
  appreciated. I do not want to call an electrician unless real
  danger might be involved, I can do without the outlet and hall
  light.

  thanks

  tom

  Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[BlindHandyMan] Electric "house wiring" question:

[Tom Fowle]

In our 1960s build duplex, we have a single outlet and a hall
light that have failed. Due to this failure I moved the portable
heater which was the only thing on that outlet to anothere socket,
unknowingly putting it on the same circuit as a bathroom ceiling
fan/heater combo. Not surprisingly when both heaters were on, the
fuse blew.

Replaced the fuse, all is well and we'll just not run both
heaters at same time.  There is no where else to plug in the
portable heater.

My questions are:
1. how paranoid should I be about a single portion of a circuit
that has failed?  If I can do without that socket and light, can
I just forget them?

2. If not, how might one go about figuring out what's wrong?  I
don't even know which circuit the failed systems are on.  I
believe the wiring is in the attic crawl space which is now full
of glass insulation, so not a wonderfull place to go crawling
about following wires even were I so inclined.

Thoughts from those with more house type experience would be
appreciated.  I do not want to call an electrician unless real
danger might be involved, I can do without the outlet and hall
light.

thanks

tom


Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling Shelf Pin Holes

[Dale Leavens]

Rae

If you can do that you either have much better touch than I do or a lot more 
sight!

Accurately placing the point of a bit on the intersecting point of scribed 
lines by touch takes one heck of a lot of skill in my experience. I can't 
usually get the tip  into the middle of a hole in something like a hinge 
without using a center punch to mark the hole.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: "Ray Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 7:47 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Drilling Shelf Pin Holes


> Hi
> Drilling shelf pin holes is easy if you follow a few simple steps.
> Installing Adjustable Shelf Pins
> Consistency Is Key
>
>   Adjustable shelving is a common feature of virtually any type of cabinet
> and a simple way to increase the versatility of the project.
>
>   Drilling the cabinet sides to accept the pins that support the shelves 
> is
> easier than you might think. The most important part of the process is 
> being
> consistent. Since each shelf is supported by a pair of pins at each end, 
> the
> holes must be level for the installed shelf to be level. The good news is
> you can handle this task with basic equipment in a minimal amount of time.
>
> A 6" combination square is perfect for laying out the pin hole locations.
> Here the blade is used to trace the vertical lines onto the cabinet side
> piece.
>
> Drilling Options
>
>   The goal of drilling is to produce holes that are accurately aligned to
> each other front to back and equally spaced vertically. In addition, the
> holes
> must fit the pins closely, be 90-degrees to the side and deep enough for 
> the
> pin to seat fully.
>
>   While a hand-held drill can be used, it must be held exactly 90-degrees
> to the surface and very steady to avoid increasing the diameter of the
> holes.
> If the holes are not precise, the pins will hang and the shelf will rock 
> or
> tilt.
>
>   Using a drill press is by far the easiest way to eliminate nearly all of
> these problems. Even the most basic drill press is capable of drilling 
> shelf
> pin holes quickly and accurately. I have drilled shelf pin holes with a 
> 10",
> benchtop press for years with no problems.
>
> The blade on my 6" combination square is 3/4"-wide, perfect for spacing 
> the
> rows of pin locations.
>
> Jigs
>
>   Manufactured jigs that vary widely in price and capabilities are
> available for drilling shelf pin holes. Common pegboard can be used to 
> build
> a drilling
> jig but has liabilities as well. If the cabinet has a recessed back panel,
> two jigs may be necessary. In addition, pegboard is very soft and the 
> holes
> easily enlarged during drilling, greatly reducing accuracy.
>
> Layout
>
>   A very accurate layout can be drawn quickly using a simple combination
> square and a sharp Scriber. Creating a simple grid on the cabinet sides
> makes drilling
> an accurate set of holes easy, particularly on a drill press.
>
>   The pins should be set in from the edges of the shelf sufficiently to
> limit their visibility while maximizing support. Set the blade of the 
> square
> to
> locate the forward line of holes and draw that line on both cabinet sides,
> top to bottom.
>
> fast and simple.
>
>   Because most cabinets have a rabbet that recesses the back panel, the
> rear line of holes must be set in from the edge of that rabbet. With the
> square
> adjusted as needed, draw the line for the rear line of pins on both 
> cabinet
> sides.
>
>   Start laying out the horizontal lines by finding the vertical center of
> the cabinet sides and drawing a line across the width making sure to cross
> both
> vertical layout lines.
>
>   The vertical spacing between the rows of holes can be whatever you like
> but I find ¾" works very well. This also is the width of the blade on most
> 6"
> combination squares. Using the blade itself to space the lines of holes
> makes this part of the layout fast, simple and all but goof-proof.
>
> The holes should be slightly deeper than the length of the pin to insure a
> flush fit.
>
>   Align the edge of the blade to the centerline and draw a line along the
> other side of it. Move the square down, register the blade with that line
> and
> repeat the process until you get close to the end of the cabinet side. Go
> back to the center and draw lines on the remaining half of that piece. Do
> the
> same on the other cabinet side and the grids will match.
>
>   The holes can be run as close to the ends of the cabinet sides as you
> like but be realistic. It is unlikely that a shelf will be placed within 2
> or 3-inches
> of either the top or bottom of the cabinet making pin holes in those areas
> unnecessary.
>
> Drilling
>
> Note: When using a manufactured jig, follow the directions that came with
> it.Install the appropriate-sized brad point bit for the shelf-pins into 
> the
> drill

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drill presses

[Dale Leavens]

Actually it wasn't that sort of project I was interested in using an X Y 
vise for but for drilling square mortises and some jig making functions.



Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drill presses


> Hi Dale,
> I have that vise and it didn't really help me for a similar project. I had
> to drill a lot of shelf pin holes and found that it did not really help me
> for that project.  I made a drilling jig out of a scrap piece of oak.   I
> set a fence on the drill press table and then drilled a 1/4" hole every 1
> 1/2" along that board about 10" long.
> I then clamped it to my shelf and with a hand drill used the  jig to drill
> the first few holes. I then used another drill bit as a locking pin. I
> inverted it into the jig's top hole and into the last shelf drilled hole. 
> I
> was then able to drill a few more holes.  by moving the jig down I drilled 
> 2
> rows of holes on each of 2 4' shelf sides.
> Lenny
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 12:32 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drill presses
>
>
> While on the subject, does anyone have a sliding X Y vise accessory for
> their drill press?
>
> A couple of days ago I began drilling a sequence of holes for the bit
> storage drawers of my router station. The quarter inch shank used three 
> rows
> of 12 holes, so did the half inch shank but the middle row was offset by
> three quarters of an inch to allow for larger diameter bits.
>
> The question became how do I efficiently align and drill these holes, six
> trays of 36 holes each.
>
> In the end I clamped a stick as a stop on my little router table with a
> quarter inch straight cutting bit just touching the stop and ripped a 
> stick
> of three quarters inch fairly straight strapping in half then using my
> trusty set-up blocks from Lee Valley made the first cut an inch and a half
> along the edge pushing the stick into the bit with the miter gauge. The
> second cut was easy using the 3 inch block from the end and after that I
> continued using the 3 inch block to space from the far edge of each cut
> skipping one so that I have now a stick with quarter inch cuts into it at
> inch and a half centers.
>
> Because these cuts are only the depth of the thickness of the router bit 
> it
> is fairly easy to center the stick on the work to be cut or to align it
> along any distance from an edge and if I should need more than are on the
> stick it is easy to register by slipping a bit or two into already drilled
> holes and aligning the notches to continue.
>
> As I am making three of each type of tray I just placed three trays ganged
> like a sandwich and shot two two inch nails into one end to keep them
> together and aligned then located my jig stick and pinned it into place
> then, at the drill press it was a fairly simple matter to just slide the
> stack along until I felt the drill slide into the notch then drive it
> through, retract it and slide it along until it settled into the next 
> groove
> and repeat the 12 holes I needed.
>
> I pulled the stick off, relocated it the required distance to first one 
> edge
> then later to the other edge and repeated the process until all 36 holes
> were bored.
>
> I did a similar thing for the half inch holes except that I offset the
> center row by measuring the stick in three quarters of an inch from the 
> end
> on that row and again drilled with a quarter inch bit later going back 
> with
> the larger 17/32nd bit. Although it took a while to cut the jig, once done 
> I
> was able to go just about as fast as a sighted driller who would probably
> have measured out the lines with a gauge then walked off the spacing with 
> a
> pair of dividers.
>
> I am keeping the jig, seems to me that inch and a half spacing might come 
> in
> handy again some day.
>
> I have used pegboard in the past as a template but centering the bit in 
> the
> hole isn't quite so accurate and not very satisfying unless turning off 
> the
> press between each hole.
>
> I do have a foot switch now connected to my press which is also very handy
> when I don't forget and switch the thing off by hand.
>
> My next modification I am considering is to mount a slow speed reversible
> motor to the crank lift mechanism for the table for easier and more
> convenient table height adjustment.
>
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 11:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drill presses
>
>
>> Hi All,
>> As Dale mentioned there are two types bench t

[BlindHandyMan] Drilling Shelf Pin Holes

[Ray Boyce]

Hi
Drilling shelf pin holes is easy if you follow a few simple steps.
Installing Adjustable Shelf Pins
Consistency Is Key

   Adjustable shelving is a common feature of virtually any type of cabinet 
and a simple way to increase the versatility of the project.

   Drilling the cabinet sides to accept the pins that support the shelves is 
easier than you might think. The most important part of the process is being
consistent. Since each shelf is supported by a pair of pins at each end, the 
holes must be level for the installed shelf to be level. The good news is
you can handle this task with basic equipment in a minimal amount of time.

A 6" combination square is perfect for laying out the pin hole locations. 
Here the blade is used to trace the vertical lines onto the cabinet side 
piece.

Drilling Options

   The goal of drilling is to produce holes that are accurately aligned to 
each other front to back and equally spaced vertically. In addition, the 
holes
must fit the pins closely, be 90-degrees to the side and deep enough for the 
pin to seat fully.

   While a hand-held drill can be used, it must be held exactly 90-degrees 
to the surface and very steady to avoid increasing the diameter of the 
holes.
If the holes are not precise, the pins will hang and the shelf will rock or 
tilt.

   Using a drill press is by far the easiest way to eliminate nearly all of 
these problems. Even the most basic drill press is capable of drilling shelf
pin holes quickly and accurately. I have drilled shelf pin holes with a 10", 
benchtop press for years with no problems.

The blade on my 6" combination square is 3/4"-wide, perfect for spacing the 
rows of pin locations.

Jigs

   Manufactured jigs that vary widely in price and capabilities are 
available for drilling shelf pin holes. Common pegboard can be used to build 
a drilling
jig but has liabilities as well. If the cabinet has a recessed back panel, 
two jigs may be necessary. In addition, pegboard is very soft and the holes
easily enlarged during drilling, greatly reducing accuracy.

Layout

   A very accurate layout can be drawn quickly using a simple combination 
square and a sharp Scriber. Creating a simple grid on the cabinet sides 
makes drilling
an accurate set of holes easy, particularly on a drill press.

   The pins should be set in from the edges of the shelf sufficiently to 
limit their visibility while maximizing support. Set the blade of the square 
to
locate the forward line of holes and draw that line on both cabinet sides, 
top to bottom.

fast and simple.

   Because most cabinets have a rabbet that recesses the back panel, the 
rear line of holes must be set in from the edge of that rabbet. With the 
square
adjusted as needed, draw the line for the rear line of pins on both cabinet 
sides.

   Start laying out the horizontal lines by finding the vertical center of 
the cabinet sides and drawing a line across the width making sure to cross 
both
vertical layout lines.

   The vertical spacing between the rows of holes can be whatever you like 
but I find ¾" works very well. This also is the width of the blade on most 
6"
combination squares. Using the blade itself to space the lines of holes 
makes this part of the layout fast, simple and all but goof-proof.

The holes should be slightly deeper than the length of the pin to insure a 
flush fit.

   Align the edge of the blade to the centerline and draw a line along the 
other side of it. Move the square down, register the blade with that line 
and
repeat the process until you get close to the end of the cabinet side. Go 
back to the center and draw lines on the remaining half of that piece. Do 
the
same on the other cabinet side and the grids will match.

   The holes can be run as close to the ends of the cabinet sides as you 
like but be realistic. It is unlikely that a shelf will be placed within 2 
or 3-inches
of either the top or bottom of the cabinet making pin holes in those areas 
unnecessary.

Drilling

 Note: When using a manufactured jig, follow the directions that came with 
it.Install the appropriate-sized brad point bit for the shelf-pins into the 
drill
press. Place one of the cabinet sides on the table and lower the point of 
the bit, aligning it with the center hole location. It doesn't matter if you
start with the front or rear line of holes.


Sanding the interior surfaces is easier now anyway so sand the layout lines 
away in the process.

   Sink the point of the brad point bit into the wood where the layout lines 
cross, marking the location of a pin hole. Square the workpiece to the table
before clamping a piece of wood to the table against its rear edge to act as 
a fence.

   Set the depth stop to produce holes approximately 1/16" deeper than the 
pins require to insure they will install flush against the sides.

   Slide the board along the fence, aligning the fine tip on the brad point 
bit with the layout lines. Carefully drill all of the holes in that line on
both

[BlindHandyMan] Product Recall

[Ray Boyce]

HiAll
Name of Product: Oscillating Ceramic Heaters

Units: About 35,000 (17,000 with consumers)

Importer: Family Dollar Stores, of Charlotte, N.C.

Hazard: The heaters can overheat and smoke, which could pose a fire
hazard to consumers.

Incidents/Injuries: Family Dollar has received three reports of the
heaters overheating or smoking. There are no reports of fires and two
reports of minor property damage.

Description: The recalled heater is a 1500 watt oscillating ceramic
heater. The heater has a white plastic housing with the name "Heat-Wave"
in black on its top. A label on the product contains the control number
"ETL 3090262."

Sold at: Family Dollar stores nationwide from September 2006 through
November 2006 for about $20.

Manufactured in: China

Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the heaters and return
them to a Family Dollar store for a full refund.

Customer Contact: For additional information, contact Family Dollar at
(800) 547-0359 between 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, or
visit the firm's Web site at
www.familydollar.com



To listen to the show archives go to link
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.

[Dale Leavens]

I have a wood basement under the addition I built here in 1991. It is 
treated wood and finished with stainless steel nails and the exterior of the 
plywood I painted with a special treatment all part of the instructions 
which guarantees it for 50 years. This is longer than I will need it, what I 
can say is that I find no detectible signs of failure, it is now approaching 
16 years.

Treated wood will eventually rot but Max won't have to worry about it. It 
will live longer on gravel than cement which will tend to wick water into 
the wood, you can however lay a strip of polyfoam, the sort of plastic foam 
they often pack things in, or cover computer monitor screens. It makes a 
good seal and a grand vapour barrier.



Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: "John Schwery" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.


>I have heard that even treated wood can rot after being in contact
> with the ground.  Will Max's floor or frame rot if he doesn't put
> down gravel or cement blocks?
>
> earlier, Dale Leavens, wrote:
>
>>You can probably find someone with one of those dirt cutting chain saw 
>>like
>>things to cut you a groove for the power line. Maybe even a utility 
>>company
>>will do it for a price or your buddy might know someone with one. I don't
>>know if they can be rented or not. You can make the cut with almost no
>>detectible damage and what is done disappears very quickly.
>>
>>I still think you should fly Janet and I down to help you out!
>>
>>Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
>>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>Skype DaleLeavens
>>Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>>
>>- Original Message -
>>From: "Max Robinson" 
>><[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>To: "Blind Handyman"
>><blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
>>Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 11:05 PM
>>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.
>>
>> > Hi List.
>> >
>> > Don has asked me to post progress reports on the shop. OK. Here is the
>> > first one. I called my friend John Smith today and he reinforced my
>> > opinion
>> > that I don't need to worry about inspections. In rural areas such is 
>> > this
>> > farmers are always making changes, adding buildings and wiring them.
>> > Messing around with inspections would be a pain in several parts of the
>> > anatomy so officials look the other way and nobody worries about it. If
>> > someone makes a mistake and the barn burns down there is no one else to
>> > blame or sue. Personal freedom brings personal responsibility. I'm 
>> > going
>> > to do everything I can to meet code because that is the sane and 
>> > sensible
>> > thing to do. I have room for an additional 240 volt circuit in my 
>> > breaker
>> > box. I will install a 30 amp dual breaker there and take the wire 
>> > outside
>> > through the same conduit which carries the airconditioner power. Not on
>> > the
>> > same circuit as the AC, just sharing the exit. We will modify the AC
>> > conduit using a 3 port LB, one coming out of the wall, one going to the 
>> > AC
>> > and the third one going down into the ground. We will use number 10 4
>> > wire
>> > cable rated for burial and run in steel conduit above ground and PVC
>> > below.
>> > I'll probably put in 4 15 amp branch circuits in the shop. I know that
>> > adds
>> > up to 60 not 30 but electrical wiring is routinely based on the 
>> > diversity
>> > principle. Not all circuits will be drawing full current at the same
>> > time.
>> > If you were to add up all the branch circuits in your house the sum 
>> > would
>> > be
>> > considerably greater than the rating of the main breaker. I'm going to
>> > look
>> > into getting a trench dug using a machine so I won't have to do it by
>> > hand.
>> > Code calls for 18 inches if conduit is not used. It's a little vague 
>> > when
>> > conduit is used. I have to pass over the field drain for my septic tank
>> > and
>> > be sure not to cover them, or the tank, with the shop building. Putting
>> > down gravel sounds like a good idea. I should have done it with the
>> > storage
>> > shed.
>> >
>> > Regards.
>> >
>> > Max. K 4 O D S.
>> >
>> > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> >
>> > Transistor site
>> http://www.funwithtransistors.net
>> > Vacuum tube site: 
>> > http://www.funwithtubes.net
>> > Music site: 
>> > http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>> >
>> > To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
>> >
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > To listen to the show archives go to link
>> > http://acbradio.org

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.

[Dale Leavens]

Yes, size is my concern too. Max might consider a split double door.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.


>
>
> Hey Max,
> About two years ago a friend erected a similar shed for his workshop.
> I just got to talk to him about it and he made 3 suggestions and I believe
> that you are aware of some of them. First he was instructed to prepair the
> location by first removing all grass. It will prevent it from rotting 
> under
> the shed. He was also advised to have a level course of crushed stone to
> allow for water drainage. He used about 3 inches  of 2B stone. He could 
> have
> used a concrete slab but it was too expensive.
> He quickly changed his door plan to a 4 foot wide door from a garage type
> because of taxes. The garage door would qualify it as a garage and his 
> taxes
> would go up about $250 a year the shed increased his taxes by $10.
> His shed is 16x24. He is now in the process of insulating the shed. It is
> too cold for him in the winter.
> Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
>
>
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.16.1/611 - Release Date: 31/12/2006
>
> 



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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[BlindHandyMan] MLCS Horizontal Router Table

[Lenny McHugh]

Has anyone used a Horizontal Router Table? I have been thinking about this for 
about 2 years. I am trying to decide if this would be better for me than the 
conventional table.

 
Much safer and more accurate than standing wide stock on edge. Don't stand 
stock on edge!
The new multiple routing operation Horizontal Router Table makes tall auxiliary 
fences, multiple feather or jigs UNNECESSARY. 
. Quickly and easily make mortise & tenon joinery, raised panels with vertical 
raised panel bits, moldings and picture frames.
. This benchtop table features micro adjustable bit height adjustments. 1/16" 
per turn allows for very precise adjustments: (1/4 turn = 1/64", 1/2 turn
= 1/32", 3/4 turn = 3/64"). 
. The table is 24" wide x 20" deep x 25" height with a sturdy 3/4" thick MDF 
core, durable melamine surface and polyethylene plastic edges. 
. 3/4" thick MDF core with melamine surface extension fences, on both sides of 
the router plate give maximum support to long stock. 
. The 3/8" thick, 11-3/4" x 11-1/2" router plate is held in routing position by 
sturdy aluminum extrusions, along with two locking knobs which safely secure
the sliding router plate in position. 
. Use with 3 HP routers or less. Raise or lower your router up to 2-1/8" below 
or 2-3/8" above the table. 
INTRODUCTORY OFFER
sb/order
Item #9767$189.95 
Make Raised Panels on the HORIZONTAL ROUTER TABLE
 Note: The Horizontal Router Table cannot be used to make cathedral doors.

1) Start by cutting your panel to its finished size. You may choose to allow
a small 1/16" to 1/8" gap inside the rail & stile for seasonal wood
movement.

2) After you have cut your panel to its finished dimension, install a
vertical raised panel bit in your router.

3) Adjust the router bit depth so the router bit will cut a 3/8" depth flat
cut before the profile cut starts. Position the router plate height so that
the router bit's edge is just above the surface of the tabletop. Turn the
locking knobs to secure the router and plate in place.

4) Turn on the router and working from left to right, make the first pass on
the end grain of the panel. Cut the end grain first so that any tear out can
be cleaned up when you cut with the grain.

5) After cutting the end grain on the panel, cut the two remaining edges
(with grain cuts).

6) Turn off the router and wait for the router bit to come to a complete
stop.

7) Loosen the two locking knobs on the router plate and adjust the bit up a
small amount. Lock the knobs to secure the plate and make your second pass
on the panel.

8) Repeat until you have a 1/4" tongue to fit into the slot on the rails and
stiles. TIP: Taking many shallow passes will yield a better cut than trying
to cut too aggressively which may lead to a poor cut quality or excessive
tear-out.

Remember Safety Rules: Wear proper eye protection, keep hands away from
router bit and never rout with the router bit above your workpiece - always
keep your workpiece above the router bit.

Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] texturing

[Lenny McHugh]

Carl, Just a few weeks ago on home and garden tv they finished a table to 
try and make it look very old. To create the patina they repediately hit the 
table top with a fairly heavy chain. This put all types of dings in the 
surface.
Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

- Original Message - 
From: "carlhickson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 1:13 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] texturing


i am wonting to texture a table top any idears just to make it feal 
interesting?
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
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http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] texturing

[Dan Rossi]

Depends on what kind of texturing you want to do.  You could do something 
regular like routing parallel grooves along the table top.  Or something 
random, like just taking a hammer and wacking away.  It would leave all 
kinds of randomly shaped, and randomly placed indentations, that when 
slightly sanded, would give a pretty neat texture.  not sure how it would 
look, and you would have to wack at it for quite a while to get a decent 
coverage, but I've felt boards like that before and they seem pretty cool.

Later.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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[BlindHandyMan] texturing

[carlhickson]

i am wonting to texture a table top any idears just to make it feal interesting?
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review

[Boyce, Ray]

Hi All
Dyco RT10045 Router Table
Review

The router has become an invaluable and diverse woodworking tool in the modern 
woodworker's workshop. It can perform tasks that were previously only possible
with a bunch of hand tools and a LOT of time!

As routers became more and more popular, so did the need for mounting them 
upside down in a router table to further expand their versatility, essentially
creating a psuedo-shaping machine.

Now there are many router table manufacturers on the market selling everything 
from basic table and fence setups, to fully-blown routing stations capable
of many different shaping and cutting tasks. One of the newer tables on the 
market is manufactured and sold by Dyco International, and some of its features
solve some of the common problems with other router table designs.

We acquired a prototype model from Dyco to undertake this review, so let's get 
into it.

Note: This review is compiled on the basis of a prototype unit received from 
Dyco. As such, features or specifications may differ in the final retail unit
you may purchase. Where possible we have included in the following review, 
notes where the final model may differ from this prototype unit in regards to
features or specifications. Note also that guards have been removed in some 
photos for better clarity. Use safety guards and devices at all times when
woodworking.

Dyco RT10045 Router Table
Like most similar router tables on the market, the RT10045 ships in component 
parts requiring assembly. A user manual was not delivered with this prototype
unit (as it was still in production) but I was able to easily assemble the 
table without requiring it. It is mostly just a process of attaching the legs
and support braces to the bottom of the table cabinet/skirt. Then attach the 
fence assembly with the two securing screws and attach the table extension
wings, one of each side.

You will, of course, need to supply your own router to mount under the table. A 
table-mounted router should be quite powerful, as it will likely be undertaking
some more serious shaping tasks. At minimum, you should have at least a 2HP 
router with variable speed control capabilities that is able to take 1/2" shank
router bits. Extra depth extension is always a handy asset to have as well, as 
you invariably lose some depth capacity because of the thickness of the
table itself. I used the Triton 3.25HP router. It is one of the best-designed 
routers for table use made to date and very powerful for this kind of 
table-mounted
application. There are many other good routers from other manufacturers you 
could use too.

 Attaching the router is quite simple. Supplied with the table are two mounting 
clamps. These clamp to the base of your router and you can generally configure
them to clamp just about any router without obstruction. I was able to 
successfully clamp 3 different routers into the table without too many problems,
although the Triton router was only able to be mounted one way as the router's 
handles would rub or hit the router table cabinet when the table was lowered
back to its flat position. Nonetheless, it does fit in, in one way, and it 
works fine. In application, the clamps seem to hold the router quite well, 
providing
a little piece of mind that your router wont fall to the earth, or to a hard 
concrete floor! For extra security, perhaps a third clamp could have been
introduced into the design to form a 3-point, triangular clamp arrangement 
around the router, but again, the 2-clamp setup seems to work fine so far. Just
check the clamps occasionally to ensure they are still tight. Routers can cause 
a lot of vibration and tend to loosen screws they are in contact with over
time.

Mounting the router brings us to the first feature discussion of the table, and 
that is the tilting table. When standing at the front of the machine, the
table (which is constructed of cast iron and quite heavy!) can be lifted up and 
anchored in its up-tilted position to mount the router or access it easily.
There are varying height/angle stops on the table's supporting arm to hold the 
table in three positions. I found the lower position not to be terribly
practical as it only gives you minimal clearance between the table and the 
cabinet to access the router. The higher two notches are better. You have to
be careful here also. With the heavy table resting on the support arm, you need 
to make sure the table is fully engaged in one of the stop notches that
hold the table in the upright/tilted positions. Remember that your arms and 
fingers are going to be in between the table and the bottom cabinet, and if
the table happens to drop unexpectedly, you could be nursing a very serious 
injury. The support arm does hold the table weight satisfactorily but you need
to ensure it seats in the holding notch properly for some insurance. It can 
sometimes be a little difficult to slide it in. You can adjust the "tightness"
of the support arm so that it will

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.

[Max Robinson]

Sounds like a plan.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message - 
From: "Donnie Parrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 12:38 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.


> Hey Max,
>
> I'll be glad to help you out if you would like for me too.  I can ride my 
> scooter up to Canada and
> get Dale and his wife for you.  Just let me know when they'll be ready and 
> I'll zip right up and
> gitt'em!!!
>
> See ya,
> Scooter
>
>
>
> Contact me at:
> Donnie Parrett
> 1956 Asa Flat Road
> Annville, KY  40402
> Home #  606-364-3321
> Cell #  606-438-2557
> Church #  606-364-PRAY
> Email  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dale Leavens
> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 11:38 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.
>
>
> You can probably find someone with one of those dirt cutting chain saw 
> like
> things to cut you a groove for the power line. Maybe even a utility 
> company
> will do it for a price or your buddy might know someone with one. I don't
> know if they can be rented or not. You can make the cut with almost no
> detectible damage and what is done disappears very quickly.
>
> I still think you should fly Janet and I down to help you out!
>
>
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Max Robinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Blind Handyman" 
> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 11:05 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.
>
>
>> Hi List.
>>
>> Don has asked me to post progress reports on the shop.  OK.  Here is the
>> first one.  I called my friend John Smith today and he reinforced my
>> opinion
>> that I don't need to worry about inspections.  In rural areas such is 
>> this
>> farmers are always making changes, adding buildings and wiring them.
>> Messing around with inspections would be a pain in several parts of the
>> anatomy  so officials look the other way and nobody worries about it.  If
>> someone makes a mistake and the barn burns down there is no one else to
>> blame or sue.  Personal freedom brings personal responsibility.  I'm 
>> going
>> to do everything I can to meet code because that is the sane and sensible
>> thing to do.  I have room for an additional 240 volt circuit in my 
>> breaker
>> box.  I will install a 30 amp dual breaker there and take the wire 
>> outside
>> through the same conduit which carries the airconditioner power.  Not on
>> the
>> same circuit as the AC, just sharing the exit.  We will modify the AC
>> conduit using a 3 port LB, one coming out of the wall, one going to the 
>> AC
>> and the third one going down into the ground.  We will use number 10 4
>> wire
>> cable rated for burial and run in steel conduit above ground and PVC
>> below.
>> I'll probably put in 4 15 amp branch circuits in the shop.  I know that
>> adds
>> up to 60 not 30 but electrical wiring is routinely based on the diversity
>> principle.  Not all circuits will be drawing full current at the same
>> time.
>> If you were to add up all the branch circuits in your house the sum would
>> be
>> considerably greater than the rating of the main breaker.  I'm going to
>> look
>> into getting a trench dug using a machine so I won't have to do it by
>> hand.
>> Code calls for 18 inches if conduit is not used.  It's a little vague 
>> when
>> conduit is used.  I have to pass over the field drain for my septic tank
>> and
>> be sure not to cover them, or the tank, with the shop building.  Putting
>> down gravel sounds like a good idea.  I should have done it with the
>> storage
>> shed.
>>
>> Regards.
>>
>> Max.  K 4 O D S.
>>
>> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
>> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
>> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>>
>> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>>
>>
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>> or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
>> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>>
>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>> List Members At The Following address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>>
>> Visit the new archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.

[Max Robinson]

Dale persisted.

> I still think you should fly Janet and I down to help you out!

As expensive as this is getting it might be economically feasible.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message - 
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 10:37 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.


> You can probably find someone with one of those dirt cutting chain saw 
> like
> things to cut you a groove for the power line. Maybe even a utility 
> company
> will do it for a price or your buddy might know someone with one. I don't
> know if they can be rented or not. You can make the cut with almost no
> detectible damage and what is done disappears very quickly.
>
> I still think you should fly Janet and I down to help you out!
>
>
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Max Robinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Blind Handyman" 
> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 11:05 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.
>
>
>> Hi List.
>>
>> Don has asked me to post progress reports on the shop.  OK.  Here is the
>> first one.  I called my friend John Smith today and he reinforced my
>> opinion
>> that I don't need to worry about inspections.  In rural areas such is 
>> this
>> farmers are always making changes, adding buildings and wiring them.
>> Messing around with inspections would be a pain in several parts of the
>> anatomy  so officials look the other way and nobody worries about it.  If
>> someone makes a mistake and the barn burns down there is no one else to
>> blame or sue.  Personal freedom brings personal responsibility.  I'm 
>> going
>> to do everything I can to meet code because that is the sane and sensible
>> thing to do.  I have room for an additional 240 volt circuit in my 
>> breaker
>> box.  I will install a 30 amp dual breaker there and take the wire 
>> outside
>> through the same conduit which carries the airconditioner power.  Not on
>> the
>> same circuit as the AC, just sharing the exit.  We will modify the AC
>> conduit using a 3 port LB, one coming out of the wall, one going to the 
>> AC
>> and the third one going down into the ground.  We will use number 10 4
>> wire
>> cable rated for burial and run in steel conduit above ground and PVC
>> below.
>> I'll probably put in 4 15 amp branch circuits in the shop.  I know that
>> adds
>> up to 60 not 30 but electrical wiring is routinely based on the diversity
>> principle.  Not all circuits will be drawing full current at the same
>> time.
>> If you were to add up all the branch circuits in your house the sum would
>> be
>> considerably greater than the rating of the main breaker.  I'm going to
>> look
>> into getting a trench dug using a machine so I won't have to do it by
>> hand.
>> Code calls for 18 inches if conduit is not used.  It's a little vague 
>> when
>> conduit is used.  I have to pass over the field drain for my septic tank
>> and
>> be sure not to cover them, or the tank, with the shop building.  Putting
>> down gravel sounds like a good idea.  I should have done it with the
>> storage
>> shed.
>>
>> Regards.
>>
>> Max.  K 4 O D S.
>>
>> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
>> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
>> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>>
>> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>>
>>
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>> or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
>> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>>
>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>> List Members At The Following address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>>
>> Visit the new archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>> list just send a blank message to:
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.16.1/611 - Release Date: 
>> 31/12/2006
>>
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> htt

[BlindHandyMan] My half cent on the backyard shop

[Missy Mosquito]

No idea if this is helpful or not, but my parents have a backyard 
shop... or rather, side of the house near the garage shop.  It was 
put up by a local storage building company, which I suppose is really 
all it is.  It's about 25 ft long and 15 ft wide I'd guess.  It's 
elevated on cinderblocks so you have to go up stairs to get in, and 
there isn't concrete or gravel or anything underneath because of 
that.  There are a set of large double doors on the front so you can 
get things in from the driveway very easily and also a regular size 
door for a side entrance, so when you pile too much stuff in the way 
of the main doors, you can still get out, which happens frequently.  
My dad's woodworking shop is the front part (about 18 ft long I 
think) and pretty much unfinished.  No inside finished walls, no 
ceiling just the rafters and the metal roof, and the floor is 
plywood, and he put up a couple of the flourescent lights on the 
ceiling rafters.  The back part is my mom's craft shop, and she has a 
side entrance with a little wooden deck and her walls are finished, 
there's a drop ceiling, and there is carpet.  She even has two 
windows, a ceiling fan with light, and an air condtioner for the 
summer... dad's side only got a couple of ventiliation units so he 
won't suffocate.  Dad and his friend did all of the wiring and 
finished parts themselves and it wasn't much trouble to put in an 
underground wire to the electrical box on the house, since the box is 
right outside the garage, so that was less than 10 ft away.  They've 
attempted to put insulation of some sort on the woodshop, but for 
some reason it wasn't working out so well and they gave up... no idea 
why.  The only regrettable part is the carpet in my mom's shop.  
SEEMED like a good idea, but with all the floral and paper scraps and 
stuff, it turns out something like a linoleum tile would have been 
more appropriate to just sweet stuff up.  I would love to help dad 
get that done this spring if I feel like it after the baby is born... 
mom and I are tired of trying to sweep wrinkled carpet

They did not have to get any permits or inspections or anything for 
this, being in a rural area.  Many of the neighbours have these kinds 
of buildings and we don't know of any of them needing permits, except 
one, because they put their building IN FRONT OF THEIR HOUSE (don't 
ask why... yes, they're crazy).  I guess that's about it.

They LOVE their shops, and when they sell this house in a few years, 
they're trying to figure out if they can take it with them or not.  
Considering this would require cutting about 8 trees to get it back 
out the driveway in one piece, I'm going to venture the answer will 
be a no in the end.  They said the best part about the shop is that 
the dining room went back to being a dining room instead of a craft 
room, and that you can actually park cars in the garage without 
having to worry about hitting saws and driving over nails and lumber 
laying all over the place.

Oh yes, and since my parents have a small business selling my mom's 
crafts and my dad's woodworks, this was considered a business 
expense, which helped tremendously in the financing of this project.  
I remember dad boasting about a year after the shop went up that the 
business had finally made enough money to cover the cost of putting 
it up to begin with.  Nice!

Good luck and enjoy it when it's done!

~ Sarah



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
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<*> To change settings online go to:
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<*> To change settings via email:
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<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] wood working publications for the blind

[Mickey Fixsen]

John,

They do not have a web site that I know of.  The CD's that are sent contain 
files in MP3 format that will play in any CD player that can play the MP3 
format.  They can be played on a computer by simply putting in the CD drive and 
then clicking the file that you want to listen to.

They would be happy to answer any questions that you might have.  Just send 
them an e-mail message.


  - Original Message - 
  From: John Schwery 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 8:46 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wood working publications for the blind


  Do these people have a web site? Is there 
  material available in electronic text to be read on puters or note takers?

  earlier, David Ferrin, wrote:

  >This was forwarded to me from an alert list member and I'm quite sure that
  >many of you out there will be interested in this magazine.
  >David Ferrin
  >Woodworking for the Blind
  >
  >Woodworking for the Blind Inc. now provides free digital MP3 compact disk
  >recordings of current woodworking publications exclusively for the use of
  >blind and visually impaired woodworkers.
  >
  >Voice recordings of Fine Woodworking® magazine, Woodwork® magazine,
  >Woodsmith® magazine, Woodworking® magazine and American Woodworker® magazine
  >are available as CDs in MP3 format shortly after the current issues of the
  >magazines become available. All recordings include the full text of
  >woodworking articles on techniques and design, how-to-build-it articles,
  >tips, tool reviews, shop methods, finishing advice, woodworker profiles and
  >other general features. Recordings include general descriptions of the many
  >photos, illustrations and plans that accompany the magazine articles.
  >
  >Recordings can be sent only to members. Membership is free and open to all
  >print-disabled persons who are blind, visually impaired or physically
  >handicapped to read normal printed material as a result of such disability.
  >Just review the Membership Requirements and complete the Membership
  >Application and mail it to us. CDs will be mailed to members in the United
  >States, Canada and the UK as free matter for the blind or handicapped. CDs
  >will be mailed as regular mail to members in other countries but recordings
  >are available only in English.
  >
  >Woodworking for the Blind currently is able to offer CDs of recorded
  >magazines free of charge and hopes to be able to raise sufficient funds to
  >continue the free service. Contributions to support our work are always
  >welcome.
  >
  >Woodworking for the Blind
  >
  >Individual Membership Requirements
  >
  >1. Individual Membership is open to all persons who are blind, visually
  >impaired or physically handicapped to read normal printed material as a
  >result of such disability.
  >
  > 2.. Individual Membership applicants must provide the following
  >information: Name, Postal Mailing Address, E-mail Address, Certification of
  >Blindness or reading disability, and signed Agreement to Respect Copyright
  >Law.
  >
  > 3.. Certification of blindness or physical disability and inability to
  >read normal printed material as a result can be made by any of the following
  >means:
  >
  >(a) by providing evidence of eligibility for specialized library service
  >under existing definitions used by the United States National Library
  >Service for the Blind and Physically Handicapped of the Library of Congress
  >and its network of cooperating libraries, such as the person's registration
  >number, or for citizens of other countries, similar evidence from a
  >governmental agency or a government recognized agency, or
  >
  >(b) by providing evidence of membership in Recording for the Blind &
  >Dyslexic® for use of recorded materials from that organization, such as the
  >person's membership number, or for citizens of other countries, similar
  >evidence from an organization with the primary mission of providing services
  >to the blind, for example, a registration number issued by the Canadian
  >National Institute for the Blind or similar organization, or
  >
  >(c) by providing a certificate of blindness or physical handicap and
  >inability to read normal printed material from a competent authority defined
  >as medical physicians or doctors of medicine or osteopathy, opthamologists
  >or optometrists, registered nurses, therapists, professional staff of
  >hospitals, institutions and public or welfare agencies (including social
  >workers, case worker and counselors).
  >
  > 4.. Individual Members must sign an Agreement to Respect Copyright Law in
  >the following form:
  >
  >All materials recorded or reproduced by Woodworking for the Blind are
  >protected under United State copyright law and distribution is restricted
  >exclusively to qualified members who have provided evidence of blindness or
  >physical disability and inability to read normal printed material. Copying,
  >sharing or redistributing any

[BlindHandyMan] A little left over.

[Phil Parr]

   After carefully examining my supplies I find their is some egg nog and jack 
left from the holidays. While I can't read the sell by date on the nog I 
probably need to use it soon. So, how about tonight around nine eastern on for 
the people, in the blind handyman room, be their.

   Phil Parr. 
  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] wood working publications for the blind

[David Ferrin]

I'll post any and all further information when it comes across my desk, 
sorry that's all I have for now.
David Ferrin
I believe that tomorrow is another day, and I'll probably screw that one up 
too.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message - 
From: "John Schwery" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wood working publications for the blind


Do these people have a web site?  Is there
material available in electronic text to be read on puters or note takers?

earlier, David Ferrin, wrote:

>This was forwarded to me from an alert list member and I'm quite sure that
>many of you out there will be interested in this magazine.
>David Ferrin
>Woodworking for the Blind
>
>Woodworking for the Blind Inc. now provides free digital MP3 compact disk
>recordings of current woodworking publications exclusively for the use of
>blind and visually impaired woodworkers.
>
>Voice recordings of Fine Woodworking® magazine, Woodwork® magazine,
>Woodsmith® magazine, Woodworking® magazine and American Woodworker® 
>magazine
>are available as CDs in MP3 format shortly after the current issues of the
>magazines become available. All recordings include the full text of
>woodworking articles on techniques and design, how-to-build-it articles,
>tips, tool reviews, shop methods, finishing advice, woodworker profiles and
>other general features. Recordings include general descriptions of the many
>photos, illustrations and plans that accompany the magazine articles.
>
>Recordings can be sent only to members. Membership is free and open to all
>print-disabled persons who are blind, visually impaired or physically
>handicapped to read normal printed material as a result of such disability.
>Just review the Membership Requirements and complete the Membership
>Application and mail it to us. CDs will be mailed to members in the United
>States, Canada and the UK as free matter for the blind or handicapped. CDs
>will be mailed as regular mail to members in other countries but recordings
>are available only in English.
>
>Woodworking for the Blind currently is able to offer CDs of recorded
>magazines free of charge and hopes to be able to raise sufficient funds to
>continue the free service. Contributions to support our work are always
>welcome.
>
>Woodworking for the Blind
>
>Individual Membership Requirements
>
>1.Individual Membership is open to all persons who are blind, visually
>impaired or physically handicapped to read normal printed material as a
>result of such disability.
>
>   2.. Individual Membership applicants must provide the following
>information: Name, Postal Mailing Address, E-mail Address, Certification of
>Blindness or reading disability, and signed Agreement to Respect Copyright
>Law.
>
>   3.. Certification of blindness or physical disability and inability to
>read normal printed material as a result can be made by any of the 
>following
>means:
>
>(a) by providing evidence of eligibility for specialized library service
>under existing definitions used by the United States National Library
>Service for the Blind and Physically Handicapped of the Library of Congress
>and its network of cooperating libraries, such as the person's registration
>number, or for citizens of other countries, similar evidence from a
>governmental agency or a government recognized agency, or
>
>(b) by providing evidence of membership in Recording for the Blind &
>Dyslexic® for use of recorded materials from that organization, such as the
>person's membership number, or for citizens of other countries, similar
>evidence from an organization with the primary mission of providing 
>services
>to the blind, for example, a registration number issued by the Canadian
>National Institute for the Blind or similar organization, or
>
>(c) by providing a certificate of blindness or physical handicap and
>inability to read normal printed material from a competent authority 
>defined
>as medical physicians or doctors of medicine or osteopathy, opthamologists
>or optometrists, registered nurses, therapists, professional staff of
>hospitals, institutions and public or welfare agencies (including social
>workers, case worker and counselors).
>
>   4.. Individual Members must sign an Agreement to Respect Copyright Law 
> in
>the following form:
>
>All materials recorded or reproduced by Woodworking for the Blind are
>protected under United State copyright law and distribution is restricted
>exclusively to qualified members who have provided evidence of blindness or
>physical disability and inability to read normal printed material. Copying,
>sharing or redistributing any recording or reproduction in any form to any
>other person is prohibited and is an infringement of the owner's copyright
>and of the terms of membership in Woodworking for the Blind.
>
>I understand the foregoing statement and agree to this condition of
>membership and to respect copyright law. I agree not to copy, share or
>redistrib

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drill presses

[Lenny McHugh]

Hi Dale,
 I have that vise and it didn't really help me for a similar project. I had 
to drill a lot of shelf pin holes and found that it did not really help me 
for that project.  I made a drilling jig out of a scrap piece of oak.   I 
set a fence on the drill press table and then drilled a 1/4" hole every 1 
1/2" along that board about 10" long.
 I then clamped it to my shelf and with a hand drill used the  jig to drill 
the first few holes. I then used another drill bit as a locking pin. I 
inverted it into the jig's top hole and into the last shelf drilled hole. I 
was then able to drill a few more holes.  by moving the jig down I drilled 2 
rows of holes on each of 2 4' shelf sides.
Lenny
- Original Message - 
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 12:32 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drill presses


While on the subject, does anyone have a sliding X Y vise accessory for
their drill press?

A couple of days ago I began drilling a sequence of holes for the bit
storage drawers of my router station. The quarter inch shank used three rows
of 12 holes, so did the half inch shank but the middle row was offset by
three quarters of an inch to allow for larger diameter bits.

The question became how do I efficiently align and drill these holes, six
trays of 36 holes each.

In the end I clamped a stick as a stop on my little router table with a
quarter inch straight cutting bit just touching the stop and ripped a stick
of three quarters inch fairly straight strapping in half then using my
trusty set-up blocks from Lee Valley made the first cut an inch and a half
along the edge pushing the stick into the bit with the miter gauge. The
second cut was easy using the 3 inch block from the end and after that I
continued using the 3 inch block to space from the far edge of each cut
skipping one so that I have now a stick with quarter inch cuts into it at
inch and a half centers.

Because these cuts are only the depth of the thickness of the router bit it
is fairly easy to center the stick on the work to be cut or to align it
along any distance from an edge and if I should need more than are on the
stick it is easy to register by slipping a bit or two into already drilled
holes and aligning the notches to continue.

As I am making three of each type of tray I just placed three trays ganged
like a sandwich and shot two two inch nails into one end to keep them
together and aligned then located my jig stick and pinned it into place
then, at the drill press it was a fairly simple matter to just slide the
stack along until I felt the drill slide into the notch then drive it
through, retract it and slide it along until it settled into the next groove
and repeat the 12 holes I needed.

I pulled the stick off, relocated it the required distance to first one edge
then later to the other edge and repeated the process until all 36 holes
were bored.

I did a similar thing for the half inch holes except that I offset the
center row by measuring the stick in three quarters of an inch from the end
on that row and again drilled with a quarter inch bit later going back with
the larger 17/32nd bit. Although it took a while to cut the jig, once done I
was able to go just about as fast as a sighted driller who would probably
have measured out the lines with a gauge then walked off the spacing with a
pair of dividers.

I am keeping the jig, seems to me that inch and a half spacing might come in
handy again some day.

I have used pegboard in the past as a template but centering the bit in the
hole isn't quite so accurate and not very satisfying unless turning off the
press between each hole.

I do have a foot switch now connected to my press which is also very handy
when I don't forget and switch the thing off by hand.

My next modification I am considering is to mount a slow speed reversible
motor to the crank lift mechanism for the table for easier and more
convenient table height adjustment.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 11:50 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drill presses


> Hi All,
> As Dale mentioned there are two types bench tops and floor models.
> Because of limited space I created a drilling station. I have a Grizzly 12
> speed bench top with a 3/4 hp motor. I purchased a Craftsman 5 drawer
> heavy
> cabinet.
> I mounted the drill press on this cabinet to create a work station. In the
> drawers I store all drilling accessories plus all of my measuring tools.
> In
> the bottom drawer I store many c clamps etc.
> It gave me much extra storage and all drilling items are at one convenient
> place.
> One thing with the  multiple speed press is that you can do some unique
> things plus save your bits.
> I made a lamp out of a Yuengling Beer bottle using 175 rpm with a gla

Re: [BlindHandyMan] wood working publications for the blind

[John Schwery]

Do these people have a web site?  Is there 
material available in electronic text to be read on puters or note takers?

earlier, David Ferrin, wrote:

>This was forwarded to me from an alert list member and I'm quite sure that
>many of you out there will be interested in this magazine.
>David Ferrin
>Woodworking for the Blind
>
>Woodworking for the Blind Inc. now provides free digital MP3 compact disk
>recordings of current woodworking publications exclusively for the use of
>blind and visually impaired woodworkers.
>
>Voice recordings of Fine Woodworking® magazine, Woodwork® magazine,
>Woodsmith® magazine, Woodworking® magazine and American Woodworker® magazine
>are available as CDs in MP3 format shortly after the current issues of the
>magazines become available. All recordings include the full text of
>woodworking articles on techniques and design, how-to-build-it articles,
>tips, tool reviews, shop methods, finishing advice, woodworker profiles and
>other general features. Recordings include general descriptions of the many
>photos, illustrations and plans that accompany the magazine articles.
>
>Recordings can be sent only to members. Membership is free and open to all
>print-disabled persons who are blind, visually impaired or physically
>handicapped to read normal printed material as a result of such disability.
>Just review the Membership Requirements and complete the Membership
>Application and mail it to us. CDs will be mailed to members in the United
>States, Canada and the UK as free matter for the blind or handicapped. CDs
>will be mailed as regular mail to members in other countries but recordings
>are available only in English.
>
>Woodworking for the Blind currently is able to offer CDs of recorded
>magazines free of charge and hopes to be able to raise sufficient funds to
>continue the free service. Contributions to support our work are always
>welcome.
>
>Woodworking for the Blind
>
>Individual Membership Requirements
>
>1.Individual Membership is open to all persons who are blind, visually
>impaired or physically handicapped to read normal printed material as a
>result of such disability.
>
>   2.. Individual Membership applicants must provide the following
>information: Name, Postal Mailing Address, E-mail Address, Certification of
>Blindness or reading disability, and signed Agreement to Respect Copyright
>Law.
>
>   3.. Certification of blindness or physical disability and inability to
>read normal printed material as a result can be made by any of the following
>means:
>
>(a) by providing evidence of eligibility for specialized library service
>under existing definitions used by the United States National Library
>Service for the Blind and Physically Handicapped of the Library of Congress
>and its network of cooperating libraries, such as the person's registration
>number, or for citizens of other countries, similar evidence from a
>governmental agency or a government recognized agency, or
>
>(b) by providing evidence of membership in Recording for the Blind &
>Dyslexic® for use of recorded materials from that organization, such as the
>person's membership number, or for citizens of other countries, similar
>evidence from an organization with the primary mission of providing services
>to the blind, for example, a registration number issued by the Canadian
>National Institute for the Blind or similar organization, or
>
>(c) by providing a certificate of blindness or physical handicap and
>inability to read normal printed material from a competent authority defined
>as medical physicians or doctors of medicine or osteopathy, opthamologists
>or optometrists, registered nurses, therapists, professional staff of
>hospitals, institutions and public or welfare agencies (including social
>workers, case worker and counselors).
>
>   4.. Individual Members must sign an Agreement to Respect Copyright Law in
>the following form:
>
>All materials recorded or reproduced by Woodworking for the Blind are
>protected under United State copyright law and distribution is restricted
>exclusively to qualified members who have provided evidence of blindness or
>physical disability and inability to read normal printed material. Copying,
>sharing or redistributing any recording or reproduction in any form to any
>other person is prohibited and is an infringement of the owner's copyright
>and of the terms of membership in Woodworking for the Blind.
>
>I understand the foregoing statement and agree to this condition of
>membership and to respect copyright law. I agree not to copy, share or
>redistribute any recording or reproduction provided by Woodworking for the
>Blind in any form to any person. I understand that any violation of the
>foregoing will result in termination of membership and may result in
>possible civil or criminal penalties.
>
>   5.. United States, Canadian and United Kingdom members must take steps to
>be listed with their local postmaster as a postal service customer eligible
>to receiv

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.

[John Schwery]

I have heard that even treated wood can rot after being in contact 
with the ground.  Will Max's floor or frame rot if he doesn't put 
down gravel or cement blocks?

earlier, Dale Leavens, wrote:

>You can probably find someone with one of those dirt cutting chain saw like
>things to cut you a groove for the power line. Maybe even a utility company
>will do it for a price or your buddy might know someone with one. I don't
>know if they can be rented or not. You can make the cut with almost no
>detectible damage and what is done disappears very quickly.
>
>I still think you should fly Janet and I down to help you out!
>
>Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Skype DaleLeavens
>Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>- Original Message -
>From: "Max Robinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "Blind Handyman" 
><blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 11:05 PM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.
>
> > Hi List.
> >
> > Don has asked me to post progress reports on the shop. OK. Here is the
> > first one. I called my friend John Smith today and he reinforced my
> > opinion
> > that I don't need to worry about inspections. In rural areas such is this
> > farmers are always making changes, adding buildings and wiring them.
> > Messing around with inspections would be a pain in several parts of the
> > anatomy so officials look the other way and nobody worries about it. If
> > someone makes a mistake and the barn burns down there is no one else to
> > blame or sue. Personal freedom brings personal responsibility. I'm going
> > to do everything I can to meet code because that is the sane and sensible
> > thing to do. I have room for an additional 240 volt circuit in my breaker
> > box. I will install a 30 amp dual breaker there and take the wire outside
> > through the same conduit which carries the airconditioner power. Not on
> > the
> > same circuit as the AC, just sharing the exit. We will modify the AC
> > conduit using a 3 port LB, one coming out of the wall, one going to the AC
> > and the third one going down into the ground. We will use number 10 4
> > wire
> > cable rated for burial and run in steel conduit above ground and PVC
> > below.
> > I'll probably put in 4 15 amp branch circuits in the shop. I know that
> > adds
> > up to 60 not 30 but electrical wiring is routinely based on the diversity
> > principle. Not all circuits will be drawing full current at the same
> > time.
> > If you were to add up all the branch circuits in your house the sum would
> > be
> > considerably greater than the rating of the main breaker. I'm going to
> > look
> > into getting a trench dug using a machine so I won't have to do it by
> > hand.
> > Code calls for 18 inches if conduit is not used. It's a little vague when
> > conduit is used. I have to pass over the field drain for my septic tank
> > and
> > be sure not to cover them, or the tank, with the shop building. Putting
> > down gravel sounds like a good idea. I should have done it with the
> > storage
> > shed.
> >
> > Regards.
> >
> > Max. K 4 O D S.
> >
> > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > Transistor site 
> http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> > Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
> > Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
> >
> > To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> > 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
> >
> > To listen to the show archives go to link
> > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> > or
> > 
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
> >
> > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> > 
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
> >
> > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> > 
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
> >
> > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
> > List Members At The Following address:
> > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
> >
> > Visit the new archives page at the following address
> > 
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
> > list just send a blank message to:
> > 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.

[Lenny McHugh]

Hey Max,
About two years ago a friend erected a similar shed for his workshop.
I just got to talk to him about it and he made 3 suggestions and I believe 
that you are aware of some of them. First he was instructed to prepair the 
location by first removing all grass. It will prevent it from rotting under 
the shed. He was also advised to have a level course of crushed stone to 
allow for water drainage. He used about 3 inches  of 2B stone. He could have 
used a concrete slab but it was too expensive.
He quickly changed his door plan to a 4 foot wide door from a garage type 
because of taxes. The garage door would qualify it as a garage and his taxes 
would go up about $250 a year the shed increased his taxes by $10.
His shed is 16x24. He is now in the process of insulating the shed. It is 
too cold for him in the winter.
Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/





To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
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<*> To change settings via email:
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<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Off topic one time post.

[Don]

This message thread needs to  end here.  It is not open for discussion on this 
list.  If you want to talk about this subject, talk about it on the blind like 
me list.  Don
  - Original Message - 
  From: Mickey Fixsen 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 2:33 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Off topic one time post.


  What an outrageous waste of time and money!

  - Original Message - 
  From: Don 
  To: blind handy man 
  Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 9:27 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Off topic one time post.

  The following message will be a one time o t post for handy man. I don't want 
a discussion on this topic to get started on this list,. But if you can help 
read the following. 
  I am passing this along for Marlaina, because I think it may be useful for
  them to get as many signatures as possible. I just went and signed it's
  fairly painless , and it could help us all. message follows. regards
  Don
  - Original Message -
  From: "Marlaina Lieberg on ACB Radio" <
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]>

  To: 
  Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 4:20 PM
  Subject: Fw: support ACB in its attempt to win on accessible currency

  > From: Marlaina Lieberg on ACB Radio
  > Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 9:20 AM
  > Subject: support ACB in its attempt to win on accessible currency
  >
  >
  > The American Council of the Blind is working hard to ensure that all blind
  > and partially sighted people using United States currency have the same
  > level of access to information about that currency as those who are
  > sighted.
  > The U S Department of the Treasury is fighting this effort, despite a
  > victory in the Federal Courts which requires the Treasury to investigate
  > and
  > develop methods to make paper currency identifiable by touch. The
  > Treasury
  > is appealing the Federal Court decision.
  >
  > If this is important to you -- if you agree that people, blind or sighted,
  > should have access to the same level of information about U S currency
  > such
  > as the value of the bill you are about to spend or have just received, --
  > now there is something you can do.
  >
  > Please show your support for the concept of universally designing our
  > paper
  > money so that all who use it may have the same level of information about
  > their bills by signing the petition at:
  >
  http://www.money4all.info
  >

  > The American Council of the Blind will be printing out the petition and
  > using it to demonstrate to Congress the great need to revisit this
  > country's
  > paper currency design. If you are not blind, stop and ask yourself how
  > much
  > you'd trust a stranger giving you change in a store or taxi to always be
  > 100% honest with you about the paper currency being given. Ask yourself
  > if
  > ever you have almost given somebody a $20 as a tip when you meant to give
  > a
  > $5. All we are asking is for equal access to denominational information
  > through the use of touch.
  >
  > Marlaina
  >
  http://www.money4all.info
  >

  >

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  --

  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.2/613 - Release Date: 1/1/2007 2:50 
PM

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   
  Messages in this topic (2) Reply (via web post) | Start a new topic 
  Messages | Polls | Members 
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

  Visit the new archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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Traditional 
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a..  5New Members
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to

[BlindHandyMan] wood working publications for the blind

[David Ferrin]

This was forwarded to me from an alert list member and I'm quite sure that 
many of you out there will be interested in this magazine.
David Ferrin
Woodworking for the Blind

Woodworking for the Blind Inc. now provides free digital MP3 compact disk
recordings of current woodworking publications exclusively for the use of
blind and visually impaired woodworkers.

Voice recordings of Fine Woodworking® magazine, Woodwork® magazine,
Woodsmith® magazine, Woodworking® magazine and American Woodworker® magazine
are available as CDs in MP3 format shortly after the current issues of the
magazines become available. All recordings include the full text of
woodworking articles on techniques and design, how-to-build-it articles,
tips, tool reviews, shop methods, finishing advice, woodworker profiles and
other general features. Recordings include general descriptions of the many
photos, illustrations and plans that accompany the magazine articles.

Recordings can be sent only to members. Membership is free and open to all
print-disabled persons who are blind, visually impaired or physically
handicapped to read normal printed material as a result of such disability.
Just review the Membership Requirements and complete the Membership
Application and mail it to us. CDs will be mailed to members in the United
States, Canada and the UK as free matter for the blind or handicapped. CDs
will be mailed as regular mail to members in other countries but recordings
are available only in English.

Woodworking for the Blind currently is able to offer CDs of recorded
magazines free of charge and hopes to be able to raise sufficient funds to
continue the free service. Contributions to support our work are always
welcome.

Woodworking for the Blind

Individual Membership Requirements

1.Individual Membership is open to all persons who are blind, visually
impaired or physically handicapped to read normal printed material as a
result of such disability.

  2.. Individual Membership applicants must provide the following
information: Name, Postal Mailing Address, E-mail Address, Certification of
Blindness or reading disability, and signed Agreement to Respect Copyright
Law.

  3.. Certification of blindness or physical disability and inability to
read normal printed material as a result can be made by any of the following
means:

(a) by providing evidence of eligibility for specialized library service
under existing definitions used by the United States National Library
Service for the Blind and Physically Handicapped of the Library of Congress
and its network of cooperating libraries, such as the person's registration
number, or for citizens of other countries, similar evidence from a
governmental agency or a government recognized agency, or

(b) by providing evidence of membership in Recording for the Blind &
Dyslexic® for use of recorded materials from that organization, such as the
person's membership number, or for citizens of other countries, similar
evidence from an organization with the primary mission of providing services
to the blind, for example, a registration number issued by the Canadian
National Institute for the Blind or similar organization, or

(c) by providing a certificate of blindness or physical handicap and
inability to read normal printed material from a competent authority defined
as medical physicians or doctors of medicine or osteopathy, opthamologists
or optometrists, registered nurses, therapists, professional staff of
hospitals, institutions and public or welfare agencies (including social
workers, case worker and counselors).

  4.. Individual Members must sign an Agreement to Respect Copyright Law in
the following form:

All materials recorded or reproduced by Woodworking for the Blind are
protected under United State copyright law and distribution is restricted
exclusively to qualified members who have provided evidence of blindness or
physical disability and inability to read normal printed material. Copying,
sharing or redistributing any recording or reproduction in any form to any
other person is prohibited and is an infringement of the owner's copyright
and of the terms of membership in Woodworking for the Blind.

I understand the foregoing statement and agree to this condition of
membership and to respect copyright law. I agree not to copy, share or
redistribute any recording or reproduction provided by Woodworking for the
Blind in any form to any person. I understand that any violation of the
foregoing will result in termination of membership and may result in
possible civil or criminal penalties.

  5.. United States, Canadian and United Kingdom members must take steps to
be listed with their local postmaster as a postal service customer eligible
to receive free matter for the blind and other handicapped persons since all
recordings are mailed to United States, Canadian and UK residents as free
matter for the blind.

  6.. Supporting Membership is open to all persons, organizations and
publishers

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.

[Donnie Parrett]

Hey Max,

I'll be glad to help you out if you would like for me too.  I can ride my 
scooter up to Canada and
get Dale and his wife for you.  Just let me know when they'll be ready and I'll 
zip right up and
gitt'em!!!

See ya,
Scooter



Contact me at:
Donnie Parrett
1956 Asa Flat Road
Annville, KY  40402
Home #  606-364-3321
Cell #  606-438-2557
Church #  606-364-PRAY
Email  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 11:38 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.


You can probably find someone with one of those dirt cutting chain saw like
things to cut you a groove for the power line. Maybe even a utility company
will do it for a price or your buddy might know someone with one. I don't
know if they can be rented or not. You can make the cut with almost no
detectible damage and what is done disappears very quickly.

I still think you should fly Janet and I down to help you out!


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message -
From: "Max Robinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Blind Handyman" 
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 11:05 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Back yard shop.


> Hi List.
>
> Don has asked me to post progress reports on the shop.  OK.  Here is the
> first one.  I called my friend John Smith today and he reinforced my
> opinion
> that I don't need to worry about inspections.  In rural areas such is this
> farmers are always making changes, adding buildings and wiring them.
> Messing around with inspections would be a pain in several parts of the
> anatomy  so officials look the other way and nobody worries about it.  If
> someone makes a mistake and the barn burns down there is no one else to
> blame or sue.  Personal freedom brings personal responsibility.  I'm going
> to do everything I can to meet code because that is the sane and sensible
> thing to do.  I have room for an additional 240 volt circuit in my breaker
> box.  I will install a 30 amp dual breaker there and take the wire outside
> through the same conduit which carries the airconditioner power.  Not on
> the
> same circuit as the AC, just sharing the exit.  We will modify the AC
> conduit using a 3 port LB, one coming out of the wall, one going to the AC
> and the third one going down into the ground.  We will use number 10 4
> wire
> cable rated for burial and run in steel conduit above ground and PVC
> below.
> I'll probably put in 4 15 amp branch circuits in the shop.  I know that
> adds
> up to 60 not 30 but electrical wiring is routinely based on the diversity
> principle.  Not all circuits will be drawing full current at the same
> time.
> If you were to add up all the branch circuits in your house the sum would
> be
> considerably greater than the rating of the main breaker.  I'm going to
> look
> into getting a trench dug using a machine so I won't have to do it by
> hand.
> Code calls for 18 inches if conduit is not used.  It's a little vague when
> conduit is used.  I have to pass over the field drain for my septic tank
> and
> be sure not to cover them, or the tank, with the shop building.  Putting
> down gravel sounds like a good idea.  I should have done it with the
> storage
> shed.
>
> Regards.
>
> Max.  K 4 O D S.
>
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>
> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.16.1/611 - Release Date: 31/12/2006
>



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcas

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Off topic one time post.

[Mickey Fixsen]

What an outrageous waste of time and money!


  - Original Message - 
  From: Don 
  To: blind handy man 
  Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 9:27 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Off topic one time post.


  The following message will be a one time o t post for handy man. I don't want 
a discussion on this topic to get started on this list,. But if you can help 
read the following. 
  I am passing this along for Marlaina, because I think it may be useful for
  them to get as many signatures as possible. I just went and signed it's
  fairly painless , and it could help us all. message follows. regards
  Don
  - Original Message -
  From: "Marlaina Lieberg on ACB Radio" <
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]>

  To: 
  Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 4:20 PM
  Subject: Fw: support ACB in its attempt to win on accessible currency

  > From: Marlaina Lieberg on ACB Radio
  > Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 9:20 AM
  > Subject: support ACB in its attempt to win on accessible currency
  >
  >
  > The American Council of the Blind is working hard to ensure that all blind
  > and partially sighted people using United States currency have the same
  > level of access to information about that currency as those who are
  > sighted.
  > The U S Department of the Treasury is fighting this effort, despite a
  > victory in the Federal Courts which requires the Treasury to investigate
  > and
  > develop methods to make paper currency identifiable by touch. The
  > Treasury
  > is appealing the Federal Court decision.
  >
  > If this is important to you -- if you agree that people, blind or sighted,
  > should have access to the same level of information about U S currency
  > such
  > as the value of the bill you are about to spend or have just received, --
  > now there is something you can do.
  >
  > Please show your support for the concept of universally designing our
  > paper
  > money so that all who use it may have the same level of information about
  > their bills by signing the petition at:
  >
  http://www.money4all.info
  >

  > The American Council of the Blind will be printing out the petition and
  > using it to demonstrate to Congress the great need to revisit this
  > country's
  > paper currency design. If you are not blind, stop and ask yourself how
  > much
  > you'd trust a stranger giving you change in a store or taxi to always be
  > 100% honest with you about the paper currency being given. Ask yourself
  > if
  > ever you have almost given somebody a $20 as a tip when you meant to give
  > a
  > $5. All we are asking is for equal access to denominational information
  > through the use of touch.
  >
  > Marlaina
  >
  http://www.money4all.info
  >

  >

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

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