[BlindHandyMan] Everything About Finishes
EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT FINISHES Master that last crucial step in furniture building with this complete guide >From hand-cut dovetails to screw-together joinery, amateur woodworkers and DIY >enthusiasts use a wide range of skills. But there's a common line every project must cross before it's done: the finish line. Finishes are necessary to protect and beautify most woodworking projects, yet the choices can be bewildering and application methods differ from one product to the next. Getting the finish right is no chance affair. I've met many a hobbyist who had built a stunning project but was terrified to embark on the finishing journey, and sometimes with good reason. It takes just one failed attempt to make the "unfinished" look like a tempting option, but a little knowledge goes a long way. Although the many names of finishing products can be confusing, most belong to one of four groups: straight oils, oil/varnish blends, varnish and water-based finishes. Each has its own characteristics and application methods. Most finishes fall into one of these groups, with the exception of shellac and lacquer. Look for the characteristics of each group. As for application methods, all of these products can be applied with ordinary hand-finishing methods. For the perfectionists among you, see "Finishing the Finish". With a little extra time and elbow grease, you can make the difference between a good finish and an outstanding finish. TECHNIQUE 1. Straight oils and oil/varnish blends go on evenly and easily with a foam roller. Wipe off the excess finish in the direction of the grain with a rag. 2. Use a natural-bristle brush to apply varnish or polyurethane. Allow at least a half to a full day of drying time. 3. A foam brush picks up a good quantity of a water-based finish, but applies only as much product as you apply pressure on the brush. 4. Apply your last coat of varnish with friction by using a rubbing pad so you avoid leaving brush marks. Straight Oils The straight oils category includes finishes such as pure tung oil, raw and boiled linseed oil, mineral oil and walnut oil. These are penetrating finishes: they don't build a film on the wood. Although oil finishes don't provide any real scratch or scuff resistance, the lack of film can be an advantage. On a cutting board, for example, a film finish would crack and peel. Small bits of finish would mix with your food, raising questions of food safety. Choose a straight oil primarily for heavy-use items that are subject to cutting and pounding. This includes cutting boards, butcher's blocks, knife blocks and workbenches. These kinds of items can be recoated with more finish as needed. My workbench is finished with many coats of tung oil, and I add another coat each year when I close my shop down over Christmas. Straight oils are also suited for decorative tems that won't see any abuse at all, such as sculpture or turnings. Oil finishes leave the wood looking natural, with a matte finish-wonderful on "art" pieces. But they aren't protective enough for most furniture, and can really collect dirt and grime on regularly handled items. For food contact safety on projects such as cutting boards, stick to tung, walnut or mineral oil. Walnut and mineral oil will remain greasy to the touch because they don't fully cure, but they are food-safe. Tung oil isn't pure unless the can says "pure" or "100%." It's also food-safe; each coat needs several days to dry. Don't forget about nut allergies with respect to walnut and tung oil; tung oil comes from a Chinese nut. Where nut allergies are an issue, mineral oil is the safest choice for food contact. You can pick up a bottle of light mineral oil from your local drugstore. Raw and boiled linseed oil are also frequently used for decorative items, or sometimes as a first coat underneath other finishes, such as oil-based poly-urethane. Raw linseed oil isn't often used since it can take a full week to dry. But boiled linseed oil has added metallic driers that speed up the drying time. Applying oil finishes is easy: simply swab on a liberal amount with a rag in any direction you want. Circles and figure eights are fine. Use a foam roller to cover large areas. Let the oil soak in for about half an hour (they all dry slowly) and then wipe off the excess with a cloth, rubbing in the direction of the wood grain. In the case of curing oils, such as linseed and tung oil, wait until the finish dries fully, then add the next coat. It will take at least five coats to see any sort of a sheen, but you can apply as many coats as you want. For non-curing oils, such as walnut and mineral oil, you can apply a second or third coat if you want the wood to soak up more; otherwise, just one or two coats will do. When you apply oil to cutting boards and salad bowls, the oil will disappear after several washings with soap and water, so keep a bottle of the oil
[BlindHandyMan] Carpenters Trick
Carpenter's Trick A taut string makes an excellent straightedge for all kinds of building applications, but it's also easily deflected from accuracy. You could stretch a string from two wood screws driven into floor joists to guide the positioning of that critical first deck board, but what's the use? If any part of the deck board touches the string during work, the rest of the run is kicked out of whack. Here's a fix: anchor only both ends of your first run of deck boards to the joists across the entire length of your deck, leaving the middle area of the boards loose for now. Next, stretch a string from one end of the run to the other, but wrap the string around a spacer block of scrap 3/4" plywood as it leaves the ends of the deck boards. This block holds the string away from the edges of the deck boards by 3/4". Grab a third piece of scrap ply of the same thickness, then slip it between the edge of the deck board temporarily as you work your way along the string, aligning the boards and anchoring them. Every time you remove this spacer block, the string is left unhindered, offering a perfectly straight reference for you to work from as you continue straightening and anchoring that critical first row of boards. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Plumber's Tool Kit
PLUMBER'S KIT SPECIALTY TOOLS Most specialty tools make difficult jobs dramatically easier and are worth investing in as your plumbing skills increase. For example, a cast-iron pipe wrench makes removing and tightening large-diameter nuts much easier. For even larger nuts, such as those that hold a drainpipe to the bottom of a kitchen sink, a spud wrench will make the job a breeze. A simple handle puller can come in handy for removing corroded faucet handles. Similarly, a basin wrench makes it easy to reach those awkward nuts holding a faucet down to the countertop and will likely save some of the skin on your knuckles as well. WHAT'S IN YOUR KIT Drain Auger Soldering Flame Shield Propane Torch MIDDLE POCKETS Flashlight, Pipe Cutter Locking Pliers Tongue-and-Groove Pliers Spud Wrench Pipe Wrench Basin Wrench Safety Glasses Torpedo Level BOTTOM POCKETS Joint Compound Paste Brush Tape Measure Copper Fittings Pipe De-Burring Tool Emergency Repair Tape Pocket Tool Carrier ON THE FLOOR ABS Pipe Copper Pipe Emery Cloth Flux Solder Wire Teflon Tape ABS Cement Pipe Dope Hacksaw ABS Pipe Fitting Tools Required: Propane torch, flame shield, pipe cutter, tape measure, extra lengths of copper pipe and fittings, including elbows, unions and caps. You'll also need solder paste and brush, solder wire, emery cloth and safety glasses. Technique: Turn off the water supply and open any nearby valves or faucets. Remove burrs from the inside and outside edges of the pipe using emery cloth or a de-burring tool. Use emery cloth to clean the outside and inside of the two pipes being joined. If the copper isn't clean, the solder might not bond properly and the joint may leak. Brush acid-free flux on both the outside of the male fitting and the inside of the female fitting. The flux cleans the copper and helps prevent oxidation as the pipe heats up. If the pipe becomes oxidized, it might leak. Dry-fit the two pieces of pipe together, then unroll and straighten about four inches of solder wire, using the roll or container as a handle when applying the solder. Heat the joint using a propane torch, moving the flame around to ensure that the whole pipe is heated. You'll know the joint is hot enough when the flux begins to bubble. Now touch the tip of the solder to the joint. The solder should melt immediately and disappear into the joint. Remove the heat. Move the remaining solder wire around the entire joint to fill it in all the way around. If the pipe cools before the whole joint has been soldered, reheat it gently as required. If you're working close to potentially flammable material, use a flame shield to protect the surrounding surfaces from catching fire, and always keep a fire extinguisher nearby. PLASTIC PIPE REPAIR Tools Required: Hacksaw, white grease marker, ABS cement, torpedo level, extra lengths of ABS pipe and various fittings, including elbows and P-trap. Technique: ABS pipe is easy to work with and repair. ABS cement is applied to the areas to be joined, and after the pieces are brought together, the surfaces of the plastic elements melt and fuse together. Although this process is not difficult, it must be done correctly to prevent leaks. Measure and then mark the pipe with a white grease pencil, which will show up easily on the surface of the black pipe. Cut the pipe to length with a hacksaw, paying careful attention to cut the pipe square; if not, the pipe will not fully seat in the fitting and is likely to leak. Smooth and bevel the edges slightly with a knife or fine file. If the pipe needs to drain, check its position with a level for the required slope. Dry-fit the pipe into the correct position and make alignment reference marks on the pipe so you can easily put it back into position once it's disassembled. Brush the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting with cement. Immediately push the pipe into the fitting, twisting it into proper position using the alignment marks. The cement sets in about 30 seconds; once the joint is set, it's stuck together for good and must be cut apart to separate. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] plumbing delemna
Spero, I hope it is not to late for this reply. There are a set of what looks like stamped metal sockets called plumber sockets. I think I paid around $12.00 for my set. I think my set has ten of these double ended sockets and a bar that is passed through holes in the socket to be use as a handle. These sockets usually are long enough to reach in and turn those odd shaped faucet parts. Art - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:34 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] plumbing delemna Hi, I want to state this clearly so you guys have the clearest picture of what is up and the thread doesn't die in confusion with me short of an answer. I have a tiled shower stall. No tub there, just stall all tiled. There are two separate faucets and one standard shower head. On the other side of the wall, there is a service door I can access.I've been in and I see two shut offs. I see what seems to be rough concrete, and wall studs. I've replaced washers both delta and standard before. The shower leaks, drips, and I want to stop wasting water. So I turn off the water. I unscrew the handle of the hot water, as it is determined that when the hot is on, the drip starts again. The cold is off for safety. I remove the hot handle, and the chrome cover beneath that, (it is a hide the hole cover) and the threading that keeps the cover on the stem. Now normally on something like a utility tub, or outside faucet; the next thing is to wrench out the threaded stem assembly at the bottom of which there is a washer. i would then fit it to an assortment of washers I have replace it with some teflon tape and be done. I put some vice grips on the visible not and tried to turn out the stem. No go. I tried again, and still no go. I even chipped the tile a little. Before I go buying specialized tools, getting penitrating oil down the wall, or break anything Is there another kind, or am I missing something very obvious? The ceramic tile, the length of the stem, and the tightness of the assembly make me less than confident to try past what I've already done. What am I missing, other than a brain? Thanks [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] changing sparkplugs
On some transverse mounted engines one can gain access to the firewall side of a engine if you temporarily unbolt the bar toward the radiator which normally prevents the engine from rolling during acceleration. Then you might be able to roll the engine toward the front of the engine compartment and gain access.Also you might need to go one step farther and unbolt an engine mount to allow you to roll the engine forward. Good luck. Art - Original Message - From: clifford To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 10:39 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] changing sparkplugs Dear List Members: As I recall there was a G. M model back in the eighties which had one plug on the rear of a transverse engine that could only be reached from the bottom, and that after jacking the engine while the wheels were turned a certain way. I recall that G. M took a lot of ribbing, as it was quite clear that the engineers had failed to take in to account that spark plugs might need to be changed in the future, with the engine sill in the car. I had a Mazda 929 s, which had the plugs in wells which required the longest extensions I owned in order for my ratchet to work with the plug wrench. A blind man could certainly install those plugs as easily as a sighted person, as it had to be done by feel. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] The Teddybear Cottage, Insulation.
I have been remiss in keeping everyone up to date on the progress on the teddybear cottage. As you recall from the last episode, a trench had been dug and electricity brought into the building. There are two 15 amp circuits for outlets and lighting, also a thermostatically controlled attic fan. I don't remember if I mentioned the air conditioner in the earlier email. Sue used a saber saw to cut a hole in the siding and we installed a window AC through the wall. It is held in place by one inch boards screwed to the studs. Anyone who attempts to steal it will end up pulling down the whole wall. The next step was insulation. The construction is with wall studs on 24 inch centers with every other one consisting of two 2 by 4s. That's still unusual construction and the big box stores didn't have any insulation for 24 inch center studs. Upon going back a week later Home Depot had it so I bought approximately what I needed plus a little. Any excess can be used in my shop which has the identical construction. The insulation is fiber glass on paper. The paper has a fold out edge which can be stapled to studs or ceiling joist. We bought an electric combination staple and brad gun at Ace Hardware which turned out to be a mistake. because the insulation isn't heavy we managed to hold it in place and staple the edges. The gun didn't have enough power to drive the staples in all the way so Sue had to go back over everything with a hammer to pound them down. After all the insulation was installed, we could run the AC which made it a lot more comfortable to work. We were in a record breaking heat wave and working in there before was hot, hot, hot. Running the AC without insulation was futile. It was actually cooler to open the doors and windows and set an industrial strength fan just outside the doorway. For those of you with enough vision to see pictures on your computer screen you can see the whole story at http://www.angelfire.com/electronic/funwithtubes/Teddybear_cottage.html Next episode, the paneling from hell. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] changing sparkplugs
Robert, yes there are three box shaped items very close to each other on many GM V6 engines. They are the ignition coils. Each coil drives two spark plugs and they both spark at the same time. Yes this engine is a four cycle engine but for many years there has been a spark on the exhaust stroke to help burn any remaining vapors. I can also remember hearing about guys who could not understand how an engine was idling twice its ital speed and not sound any different. It turned out that some early shop equipment would monitor the spark impulse when determining engine RPM. This would give a false RPM read out. Art - Original Message - From: robert moore To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 10:58 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] changing sparkplugs Larry I took another look at the Grand Prix and what I found was what looks like 3 blocks with 2 wires coming out of each, the blocks are very tight together almost looking like one unit. The wires each go directly to there respective plugs. I can't tell unless I actually do it but It looks like if I take off the alternater I just might be able to snake my arm down in there and get at all of the plugs. If this turns out to be the case I will let you all know. I don't think I would find that little trick in a book. I might try this, if it works I will let you know. I have found that some times what works is the odd crap that people over look because it is not the normal way of doing things. I like to think out side the box so to speak. Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of clifford Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 9:39 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] changing sparkplugs Dear List Members: As I recall there was a G. M model back in the eighties which had one plug on the rear of a transverse engine that could only be reached from the bottom, and that after jacking the engine while the wheels were turned a certain way. I recall that G. M took a lot of ribbing, as it was quite clear that the engineers had failed to take in to account that spark plugs might need to be changed in the future, with the engine sill in the car. I had a Mazda 929 s, which had the plugs in wells which required the longest extensions I owned in order for my ratchet to work with the plug wrench. A blind man could certainly install those plugs as easily as a sighted person, as it had to be done by feel. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Steps to Tuning Up Your Mower
It's easy to tune up your lawn mower. If you don't do it yourself, have a Briggs & Stratton dealer do it for you once a year. An annual tune-up will extend the life of your mower while cutting polluting emissions by up to 50 percent. The Four Easy Steps Step 1 Briggs & Stratton engines use one of three types of air filters - foam, paper, and a combination of foam and paper. Go to the type of filter you have to see how to change that filter. Step 2 For optimum performance, you should change the oil in your engine at least once per season or every 25 hours of use. Briggs & Stratton Maintenance Kits come with the correct oil for your engine. You can also purchase oil separately through our online store or through participating dealers and retailers. Step 3 Changing your spark plug is one of the easiest ways to ensure accurate and easy starting for your engine. This should be done every season. Briggs & Stratton Platinum Spark Plugs are pre-gapped, so all you need to do is remove the old spark plug and replace it with the new one. Our easy-to-use Maintenance Kits all include the Platinum Spark Plug. Step 4 Gasoline that's been standing for over a month can cause difficulty with your engine when you want to restart it later. Get into the habit of adding Briggs & Stratton's Fuel Stabilizer to your fuel tank to avoid these problems and you'll be ready to mow any time. 5 Ways You Can Help in Your Yard: There are many ways we can help the environment right in our own backyards. Yard care offers lots of opportunities to do things in a way that will help care for our air and natural resources. Let these ideas get you started! your lawn mower once a year. This simple-to-do task takes 30 minutes or less and cuts your mower's emissions by up to 50 percent and fuel consumption up to 30 percent. * Plant a tree. Trees not only beautify your yard and increase the value of your home, they also absorb carbon dioxide pollutants and release oxygen into the air. A mature tree also helps shade your home from summer heat. * Water your lawn in the evening or early in the morning so that it is absorbed by the soil rather than evaporated by the sun. Set your sprinklers carefully to avoid wasting water on pavement. * Use care when fueling your mower and other power equipment - spilled gasoline is an air pollutant. * Use and dispose of weed killers and insecticides carefully. Read all of the directions so you do not harm wildlife and valuable plants. 5 Ways You Can Help Inside Your Home: * Is your refrigerator airtight to save energy? Check by closing the refrigerator door on a piece of paper or a dollar bill so that the paper or bill is half in and half out. If you can pull the paper out easily, your refrigerator is leaking air and losing energy, and the door seal may need to be replaced. * Clean the lint filter in your family's clothes dryer every time the dryer is used. This increases air circulation which helps clothes dry more quickly, saving energy. * Run the dishwasher only when it is full for efficient use of water and energy. * Turn up your air conditioning in the summer by a few degrees and turn down the heat in winter by a few degrees. * Fix a dripping faucet as soon as you can - even a slow drip can waste more than a gallon of water in a single day. To read more please check out this URL below http://www.yardsmarts.com/equipment/environment/tips.asp ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] non user servasable parts?
This non-user servicable parts thing makes me think of the following. I am a vender for audio parts. To the extent that I can recognize companies I use, others I've used and those that are of their types. Often times I will ask a manu of high end gear: "could you ugrade the cable or the RCA jacks to that company's model xxx?" They say it is non-standard and usually won't do i. When I can I do. I 've had manu's change out my upgrades to make it "factory spec" whn I've sent it in for repairs I couldn't do. I've even had to go as far as removing and redoing an entire mod package for a customer so that my work wouldn't be tossed by a highly priced manu when sending it back for repair. On Tue, 25 Sep 2007, robert moore wrote: >So if the user cannot service the parts then how can any one > else service them. Are the non users super human. Or perhaps they have some > special magic dust that they have to sprinkle on the part first that you and > I as users can not get. > Grin. > If I had a back ground in electronics I would no doubt tend to ignore that > little note that says no serviceable parts. > > Grin > > -Original Message- > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Behalf Of Tom Fowle > Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 1:02 PM > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: making things talk Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review > > Lenny, > Now-a-days the microcontroller would have the eprom built in and they can > "Code protect" the internal memory so you can't copy it. > > Yep, whenever I seem "no user serviceable parts inside," it makes my fingers > itch for tools! > > Like the upcomming talking book digital players from NLS are gonna be > great except they have a non user serviceable battery pack! Humbug! > > Tom > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hi Tom, Surely there is a more convenient and economical way of doing this than an outboard synth? I mean, there will have to be some supporting electronics to drive a serial port already. If a tire gauge can talk for ten bucks and a glucometer for 30 bucks and a multifunction multimeter for 40 bucks and some of those clocks for under 20 bucks then how difficult can it be? Certainly there is a cost/volume issue and I expect he already has quite a bit tied up in current development and production. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 6:26 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review I've had a reply from Barry Wixey and he seems pretty positive. His plan would be to add a serial port at a standard baud rate etc. so folks with speech enabled portable computers, BNS and the like should have no problem accessing it. He's a mechanical guy so depends on "chinese electrical engineers' and is struggling just to pay the bills, so much overhead isn't desirable Will keep you all posted as things move along. Tom P.S. don't have a BNS or similar, buy a doubletalk LT I'd push for a setup that'd hook directly to such a synthesizer. cause you can buy one right now. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] plumbing delemna part 2 (fwd)
They do make deep sockets it is true and a spark plug wrench is usually about 2 inches deep. They come in at least two common sizes but I don't have any idea if one would fit. the good news is that you can get a spark plug wrench pretty cheap. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] plumbing delemna part 2 (fwd) thanks Tom, I'm envisioning a pair of slim duckbills that go 90dg to the jaws. But I fear they either do not exist or aren't strong enough. I am trying to avoid dis assembling the union above the shut offs where the two pipes become one and go up he wall to the shower head. I don't know if I could rock the pipes back enough to get at it anyway without tearing my knuckles on the wire lathing which is behind the tile wall. My kid tells me the "cement" in there is pink. So who's gonna see the blood? How much stem do you think the spark plug socket will accomodate? On Tue, 25 Sep 2007, Tom Fowle wrote: > I just wonder if a spark plug socket might just fit in there > and be the correct size? They come in all kinds of cheapie socket sets. > > That's a real nerve wrecker, break it off in there and you got a real mess. > > luck > Tom > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone?
That is good, nothing I have found so far is reliable much beyond 30 feet. I thought to use one here in the winter to help locate the house which is well back from the road and sometimes difficult to locate when the snow banks get high. Trouble is the range is just at the limits so it is unreliable. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Jewel Blanch To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:41 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone? I rang Dick Smith Electronics and they do stock a wireless door chime that works over a distance of 70 metres. It ain't cheap but I might give it to myself as a Christmas present. Jewel Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 1:22 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone? Hi Jewel, I got one called Janet! I would send it to you but the shipping is prohibitive. Would one of those battery powered door bells do? you could keep the button on your person and press it when you get close to the location. My experience though is that it is only good for 30 to 40 feet. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Jewel Blanch To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 6:57 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone? Does anyone know of a portable locating device that will send out a loudish sound every few seconds? I want it so that I can mark a particular spot. The RNZFB equipment shop is absolutely useless. Jewel [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 24/09/07 7:09 p.m. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] plumbing delemna part 2 (fwd)
thanks Tom, I'm envisioning a pair of slim duckbills that go 90dg to the jaws. But I fear they either do not exist or aren't strong enough. I am trying to avoid dis assembling the union above the shut offs where the two pipes become one and go up he wall to the shower head. I don't know if I could rock the pipes back enough to get at it anyway without tearing my knuckles on the wire lathing which is behind the tile wall. My kid tells me the "cement" in there is pink. So who's gonna see the blood? How much stem do you think the spark plug socket will accomodate? On Tue, 25 Sep 2007, Tom Fowle wrote: > I just wonder if a spark plug socket might just fit in there > and be the correct size? They come in all kinds of cheapie socket sets. > > That's a real nerve wrecker, break it off in there and you got a real mess. > > luck > Tom > >
Re: [BlindHandyMan] non user servasable parts?
sometimes it's made using parts that require tools that are only sold to repair shops that sign a contract that they will not have the tools copied. Or in the case of an amp company I know. They had a chip of some kind made for them, bought the whole supply Motorola made and put an agreement of a number of years on Motorola to not produce that spec or function chip. That's why that particular $7 chip is $50 and available fe places elsewhere. Spectral amps did that with every chip they used I believe. Then they give you that garbage that only one company's wire should be used with their amps. I buy them out of waranty, for as they are extremely good their attitude disevowes their deserving full retail. On Tue, 25 Sep 2007, robert moore wrote: >So if the user cannot service the parts then how can any one > else service them. Are the non users super human. Or perhaps they have some > special magic dust that they have to sprinkle on the part first that you and > I as users can not get. > Grin. > If I had a back ground in electronics I would no doubt tend to ignore that > little note that says no serviceable parts. > > Grin > > -Original Message- > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Behalf Of Tom Fowle > Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 1:02 PM > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: making things talk Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review > > Lenny, > Now-a-days the microcontroller would have the eprom built in and they can > "Code protect" the internal memory so you can't copy it. > > Yep, whenever I seem "no user serviceable parts inside," it makes my fingers > itch for tools! > > Like the upcomming talking book digital players from NLS are gonna be > great except they have a non user serviceable battery pack! Humbug! > > Tom > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
Re: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone?
I rang Dick Smith Electronics and they do stock a wireless door chime that works over a distance of 70 metres. It ain't cheap but I might give it to myself as a Christmas present. Jewel Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 1:22 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone? Hi Jewel, I got one called Janet! I would send it to you but the shipping is prohibitive. Would one of those battery powered door bells do? you could keep the button on your person and press it when you get close to the location. My experience though is that it is only good for 30 to 40 feet. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Jewel Blanch To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 6:57 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone? Does anyone know of a portable locating device that will send out a loudish sound every few seconds? I want it so that I can mark a particular spot. The RNZFB equipment shop is absolutely useless. Jewel [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 24/09/07 7:09 p.m. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone?
Yes A newer style car that has a panic button. A bit over kill yes but you did ask. But really if you could take the basic commponants of that idea you would have it I have wanted some thing like that for myself for some time they sure would come in handy out here on the farm to find the burning barrel Not to mention target practice. Robert -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jewel Blanch Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 5:57 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone? Does anyone know of a portable locating device that will send out a loudish sound every few seconds? I want it so that I can mark a particular spot. The RNZFB equipment shop is absolutely useless. Jewel [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone?
Hi Jewel, I got one called Janet! I would send it to you but the shipping is prohibitive. Would one of those battery powered door bells do? you could keep the button on your person and press it when you get close to the location. My experience though is that it is only good for 30 to 40 feet. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Jewel Blanch To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 6:57 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone? Does anyone know of a portable locating device that will send out a loudish sound every few seconds? I want it so that I can mark a particular spot. The RNZFB equipment shop is absolutely useless. Jewel [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] I wonder.
I was just watching The Daily Planet and they were demonstrating some of the characteristics of water. One today was the resistance to change in temperature. They touched a flame to an inflated balloon which immediately popped. The balloon with water in it remained unaffected. This was explained by the tendency of water to retain it's temperature. My thinking was the air pockets in the fibre of cooked chicken. It is true though that a spring roll is pretty light compared with a lump of that Texas chicken. Dan may be right again. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:24 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I wonder. Not sure, but, I was told that everything in Texas is big...Could be the chickens are as big as ostriches! Pass a drumb stick please? - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 12:37 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I wonder. Ah you are correct that ice is less dense but the structure may allow for easier conduction. The mass is also a good point and the latent heat required to change state from solid to liquid but once the ice is liquid might the water then conduct heat through the spaces? I wonder how big a piece of chicken Phil hauls out of the fridge. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: list handy Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 10:25 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I wonder. I think the ice density thing may be a bit off. For one, ice is less dense than water, thus ice floats. Secondly, even if the fact that the ice is solid any advantage you might obtain from that would be lost due to the energy lost converting ice to water. IE, it requires energy to convert 32 degree F ice to 32 degree water before you even start heating the water. Most likely, the major difference between the egg roll and the chicken is pure mass. The piece of chicken probably weighs a bit more than the egg roll. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone?
Tom! That first one sounds as though it is just what I am looking for. The 25 feet might be a little short, but I can activate it after Domino and I have advanced across the road a little. Jewel - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 11:50 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone? Here's what I found right off, from the braillebookstore and RNIB Hope I included enough info, not sure either is what you want but starts. Tom Future Aids, The Braille Superstore 1-800-987-1231 Wireless Sound Beacon Audible Pager: Locate Soccer Net, Luggage and More Picture Larger Picture - Listen to this Product Camping! Hiking! Horseback riding! Even ball games! The list is endless. No matter what outdoor sport you enjoy, you should grab one of these gadgets before you go. Our Wireless Sound Beacon is one of the most versatile toys we carry. The beacon itself is a box, measuring just over two inches wide and three inches long, and less than an inch thick. Place it on any flat surface, or attach it to almost any object, and take the hand-held remote with you. When you want to go back to the picnic table, find your backpack, pinpoint the lead horseback rider, or aim for the soccer net, just press the button on the remote control in your hand. The beacon will immediately emit a series of beeps, so you'll know exactly where the object in question is. On the back of the beacon, you'll find a belt-clip, so it's easy for someone to wear. The unit has a guaranteed range of 25 feet, and is loud enough to be easily heard. It even has an on-off switch to conserve battery power. A must-have for those of us who love the outdoors, handy for finding everyday objects like purses, and great if someone in your care is sick and wants to call you for help, this lightweight, portable unit is both cool and practical. Takes 2 AA batteries, not included. Measures about 3 in. by 2-1/2 in. by 1 in. Price: $14.95 RNIBsound beacon Sound beacon Enlarge Image A unique device, that emits a bleep, alerting people to dangers or obstacles that are in the pathway or round corners * roller switch operates the on/off function and adjustable volume control * red LED lights up when it is switched on * adjust bleep times * adjustable strap for attaching the beacon to obstructions * Please note: can be used inside and outside however it is not waterproof * Supplied with a PP3 battery (RNIB product code CP17) ME12 - Sound beacon Dimensions - Height: 110mm (4.33"), Width: 65mm (2.56"), Depth: 27mm (1.06") Price: £28.60 (Ex. VAT) £33.61 (Inc. VAT) Quantity: add Sound beacon to basket For a full explanation of our prices please refer to our terms and conditions. Need help? Contact us on: 0845 702 3153 -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 24/09/07 7:09 p.m. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone?
I am training a new guide dog and I want it, when crossing a road, to walk directly from one corner to the opposite one, so I would want a battery-powered device that emits a sound loud enough to be heard across the width of a two-lane highway. Believe it or not! (As Douglas Riddley used to say) SH1 in the South Island is, for most of its length, only two lanes wide! Jewel - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 11:27 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone? Hi Jewel, Well, we designed one and the design is in the Smith-Kettlewell Technical file for all the good that does you unless you're into building electronics. it's called the "Little Go Beep" An engineer with the Handyhams folks, ham radio, designed a low power gizmo that sends a single character in morse code, either repeatedly or with a motion sensor. However this was to indicate locations on a marked trail, and intentionally not very loud. I asume you don't have power at your desired spot, that means either batteries or more expensive solar panel. Do you have reliable wind? if so a wind chime is simple. Try googling "sound beacon" and see if that helps, I'll do it also. Is this for a specific unchanging location, or do you want a pootable box you can put down so as to get back to where you put it? There are those gizmos for finding your keys when you clap your hands, but they're ment for indoors and I'll bet you're out wanderin about the pasture. Tom -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 24/09/07 7:09 p.m. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone?
Here's what I found right off, from the braillebookstore and RNIB Hope I included enough info, not sure either is what you want but starts. Tom Future Aids, The Braille Superstore 1-800-987-1231 Wireless Sound Beacon Audible Pager: Locate Soccer Net, Luggage and More Picture Larger Picture - Listen to this Product Camping! Hiking! Horseback riding! Even ball games! The list is endless. No matter what outdoor sport you enjoy, you should grab one of these gadgets before you go. Our Wireless Sound Beacon is one of the most versatile toys we carry. The beacon itself is a box, measuring just over two inches wide and three inches long, and less than an inch thick. Place it on any flat surface, or attach it to almost any object, and take the hand-held remote with you. When you want to go back to the picnic table, find your backpack, pinpoint the lead horseback rider, or aim for the soccer net, just press the button on the remote control in your hand. The beacon will immediately emit a series of beeps, so you'll know exactly where the object in question is. On the back of the beacon, you'll find a belt-clip, so it's easy for someone to wear. The unit has a guaranteed range of 25 feet, and is loud enough to be easily heard. It even has an on-off switch to conserve battery power. A must-have for those of us who love the outdoors, handy for finding everyday objects like purses, and great if someone in your care is sick and wants to call you for help, this lightweight, portable unit is both cool and practical. Takes 2 AA batteries, not included. Measures about 3 in. by 2-1/2 in. by 1 in. Price: $14.95 RNIBsound beacon Sound beacon Enlarge Image A unique device, that emits a bleep, alerting people to dangers or obstacles that are in the pathway or round corners * roller switch operates the on/off function and adjustable volume control * red LED lights up when it is switched on * adjust bleep times * adjustable strap for attaching the beacon to obstructions * Please note: can be used inside and outside however it is not waterproof * Supplied with a PP3 battery (RNIB product code CP17) ME12 - Sound beacon Dimensions - Height: 110mm (4.33"), Width: 65mm (2.56"), Depth: 27mm (1.06") Price: £28.60 (Ex. VAT) £33.61 (Inc. VAT) Quantity: add Sound beacon to basket For a full explanation of our prices please refer to our terms and conditions. Need help? Contact us on: 0845 702 3153
Re: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone?
hi, i don't know if radio shack is down there but they sell a portable door bell. one little transmitter and one beper. just put the beepper where ever you need it and cary the transmitter and press the button . they work grate for all kinds of locating things. jim At 05:57 PM 9/25/2007, you wrote: >Does anyone know of a portable locating device that will send out a >loudish sound every few seconds? >I want it so that I can mark a particular spot. >The RNZFB equipment shop is absolutely useless. > >Jewel > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: >9/25/2007 8:02 AM
Re: [BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone?
Hi Jewel, Well, we designed one and the design is in the Smith-Kettlewell Technical file for all the good that does you unless you're into building electronics. it's called the "Little Go Beep" An engineer with the Handyhams folks, ham radio, designed a low power gizmo that sends a single character in morse code, either repeatedly or with a motion sensor. However this was to indicate locations on a marked trail, and intentionally not very loud. I asume you don't have power at your desired spot, that means either batteries or more expensive solar panel. Do you have reliable wind? if so a wind chime is simple. Try googling "sound beacon" and see if that helps, I'll do it also. Is this for a specific unchanging location, or do you want a pootable box you can put down so as to get back to where you put it? There are those gizmos for finding your keys when you clap your hands, but they're ment for indoors and I'll bet you're out wanderin about the pasture. Tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] non user servasable parts?
I once had a cassette deck that had that message on the bottom. It went on to elaborate, Lamps are soldered in. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: "robert moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 4:47 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] non user servasable parts? >So if the user cannot service the parts then how can any one > else service them. Are the non users super human. Or perhaps they have > some > special magic dust that they have to sprinkle on the part first that you > and > I as users can not get. > Grin. > If I had a back ground in electronics I would no doubt tend to ignore that > little note that says no serviceable parts. > > Grin > > -Original Message- > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Behalf Of Tom Fowle > Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 1:02 PM > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: making things talk Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review > > Lenny, > Now-a-days the microcontroller would have the eprom built in and they can > "Code protect" the internal memory so you can't copy it. > > Yep, whenever I seem "no user serviceable parts inside," it makes my > fingers > itch for tools! > > Like the upcomming talking book digital players from NLS are gonna be > great except they have a non user serviceable battery pack! Humbug! > > Tom > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the > following address for more information: > http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com > > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: > 9/25/2007 8:02 AM >
[BlindHandyMan] a locator anyone?
Does anyone know of a portable locating device that will send out a loudish sound every few seconds? I want it so that I can mark a particular spot. The RNZFB equipment shop is absolutely useless. Jewel [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] I wonder.
Not sure, but, I was told that everything in Texas is big...Could be the chickens are as big as ostriches! Pass a drumb stick please? - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 12:37 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I wonder. Ah you are correct that ice is less dense but the structure may allow for easier conduction. The mass is also a good point and the latent heat required to change state from solid to liquid but once the ice is liquid might the water then conduct heat through the spaces? I wonder how big a piece of chicken Phil hauls out of the fridge. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: list handy Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 10:25 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I wonder. I think the ice density thing may be a bit off. For one, ice is less dense than water, thus ice floats. Secondly, even if the fact that the ice is solid any advantage you might obtain from that would be lost due to the energy lost converting ice to water. IE, it requires energy to convert 32 degree F ice to 32 degree water before you even start heating the water. Most likely, the major difference between the egg roll and the chicken is pure mass. The piece of chicken probably weighs a bit more than the egg roll. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
I've had a reply from Barry Wixey and he seems pretty positive. His plan would be to add a serial port at a standard baud rate etc. so folks with speech enabled portable computers, BNS and the like should have no problem accessing it. He's a mechanical guy so depends on "chinese electrical engineers' and is struggling just to pay the bills, so much overhead isn't desirable Will keep you all posted as things move along. Tom P.S. don't have a BNS or similar, buy a doubletalk LT I'd push for a setup that'd hook directly to such a synthesizer. cause you can buy one right now.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fw: talking products
Right on guys! We should do the same for that Beale angle gauge. Eventually someone may provide us with useful affordable and accessible tools. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh To: Handyman-Blind Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 6:00 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Fw: talking products - Original Message - From: Wixey Digital To: 'Lenny McHugh' Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 5:12 PM Subject: RE: talking products Hi Lenny; Great to hear from you. Wow, have I been getting a lot of emails the last few days from blind and low vision woodworkers. The talking equipment is a good idea and I will be thinking about how to do it. You cannot modify any of our products that we have now, but it would be possible in the future. Your vanity project looks great. I believe I got the first email from a blind woodworker almost a year ago and my wife and I have been trying to figure out how you guys do it ever since. I am so nervous about rotating saw blades and my vision is pretty good. Thanks again for your email I definitely have the message. Barry Wixey Wixey email [EMAIL PROTECTED] web site www.wixey.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: making things talk Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Why in the name of all things do they make stuff with non-customer serviceable battery packs. The Victors did this and one or two others, the Optacon was a wonderful example, a device one came to depend on and you have to ship it away for days and risk loss and all that. Would people accept having to send their glasses away for a week to have them serviced or their hearing aides? Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 2:02 PM Subject: Re: making things talk Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Lenny, Now-a-days the microcontroller would have the eprom built in and they can "Code protect" the internal memory so you can't copy it. Yep, whenever I seem "no user serviceable parts inside," it makes my fingers itch for tools! Like the upcomming talking book digital players from NLS are gonna be great except they have a non user serviceable battery pack! Humbug! Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] non user servasable parts?
No, it is our wonderful throw away society mentality. They toss the unit and replace with a new. - Original Message - From: "robert moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 5:47 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] non user servasable parts? So if the user cannot service the parts then how can any one else service them. Are the non users super human. Or perhaps they have some special magic dust that they have to sprinkle on the part first that you and I as users can not get. Grin. If I had a back ground in electronics I would no doubt tend to ignore that little note that says no serviceable parts. Grin -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 1:02 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: making things talk Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Lenny, Now-a-days the microcontroller would have the eprom built in and they can "Code protect" the internal memory so you can't copy it. Yep, whenever I seem "no user serviceable parts inside," it makes my fingers itch for tools! Like the upcomming talking book digital players from NLS are gonna be great except they have a non user serviceable battery pack! Humbug! Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following address for more information: http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links
[BlindHandyMan] Fw: talking products
- Original Message - From: Wixey Digital To: 'Lenny McHugh' Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 5:12 PM Subject: RE: talking products Hi Lenny; Great to hear from you. Wow, have I been getting a lot of emails the last few days from blind and low vision woodworkers. The talking equipment is a good idea and I will be thinking about how to do it. You cannot modify any of our products that we have now, but it would be possible in the future. Your vanity project looks great. I believe I got the first email from a blind woodworker almost a year ago and my wife and I have been trying to figure out how you guys do it ever since. I am so nervous about rotating saw blades and my vision is pretty good. Thanks again for your email I definitely have the message. Barry Wixey Wixey email [EMAIL PROTECTED] web site www.wixey.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] non user servasable parts?
So if the user cannot service the parts then how can any one else service them. Are the non users super human. Or perhaps they have some special magic dust that they have to sprinkle on the part first that you and I as users can not get. Grin. If I had a back ground in electronics I would no doubt tend to ignore that little note that says no serviceable parts. Grin -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 1:02 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: making things talk Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review Lenny, Now-a-days the microcontroller would have the eprom built in and they can "Code protect" the internal memory so you can't copy it. Yep, whenever I seem "no user serviceable parts inside," it makes my fingers itch for tools! Like the upcomming talking book digital players from NLS are gonna be great except they have a non user serviceable battery pack! Humbug! Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
o if they could get it to talk! On Sun, 23 Sep 2007, Boyce, Ray wrote: > Wixey Website - > http://www.wixey.com > > Digital Angle Gauge > Wixey Digital Angle Gauge > Review > > The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge has been a welcome addition to the woodworkers > tool kit for machine setup and accuracy. These new angle measuring tools are > simple to use, and best of all, very cost effective. > Let's take a closer look... > > The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge > This small tool measures just 2" x 2" x 1.3" deep and is constructed with a > combination of hardened plastic (front and back faces) and aluminum casing > > It runs off a small 3.0v CR2032 button-type watch battery and the battery > life is promised as being up to 6 months. This is quite reasonable given the > size > of the battery. In fact, the digital angle gauge is always turned ON, i.e. it > is always measuring electronically. It is just the digital display that can > be turned off to further extend battery life. The tool features an Auto Shut > Off function in case you forget to turn it off. A handy feature for the > forgetful > among us. > > The LCD display is clear and easy to read. The gauge has a resolution of 0.1 > of a degree, so it will provide sufficient accuracy for just about all > woodworking > tasks. Certainly more accuracy than you can get by eye, or that provided by > most measuring angle tapes or angle scales on power tools, which can be > notoriously > inaccurate at times, or only marked at 1 degree increments, meaning you have > to guess if you want anything finer. Why would you want anything finer? Well, > if you get into trim work or cutting for multiple-sided forms, then less than > 1 degree accuracy can mean the difference between roughly acceptable and > perfection. I know which I would choose if both options are readily > available! Accuracy is specified at +/- 0.1 degrees as well. > > On the bottom of the unit are three small round magnets. These allow the > gauge to attach securely to any magnetic surface, which means most tool table > tops > (unless they are aluminum), all steel body cutting blades, and most tool > fences. If you have all cast iron tool surfaces, you will have no issues at > all > attaching the tool securely. But what if you have a basic table saw with an > aluminum table surface, like a job-site saw for example? Well, you can just > sit the gauge directly on top of the table, magnetic or not. You do need to > provide a reference surface to measure off for accurate angle readouts, so > the tool is generally set flat on the table first, zeroed, then set of the > saw blade body, and you will have no trouble attaching to the blade (since > most > are steel bodied), no matter what type of table surface you have. > > Below the LCD display are two buttons, and this alone signifies the > simplicity of this tool, and equally, how easily it is to use. The ON/OFF > button turns > the display on or off... simple. The ZERO button zeroes the tool to the > surface it is currently rested on, or magnetically attached to. As mentioned > above, > the general procedure for accurate angle measurement is to zero the tool on > the static reference surface, i.e. the surface that will not move (generally > the tool table) then place the Wixey gauge on the blade or secondary surface > that does move to set your angle, or correct a badly set angle! So how does > it actually work? > > Well the best description of the science behind it is given by the > manufacturer... > > How does it read? > > "All of our readouts use what's called capacitive measuring technology. This > is the exact same system that is used in almost all digital calipers that have > been on the market for at least 20 years. There is a circuit board on a > rotating counterweight that has a repeating pattern etched on it. There is a > second > fixed circuit board with a similar pattern and the rest of the electronics. > As the 2 patterns pass over each other there is an electronic signal generated > that is converted to rotation angle. The only moving part is the circuit > board with counterweight passing over the fixed circuit board. There is no > electrical > connection between the 2 circuits boards and they do not even touch each > other. There are no other mechanical moving parts." > > The good thing is that you don't even have to worry about all the scientific > and electronics jargon to make use of the tool! The gauge also has a huge > working > range of 150 degrees, but rarely will you require more than 90 degree range > in the woodshop. > > In Use > The Wixey Digital Angle Gauge is a great tool for workshop machine and tool > setup. It can be used to set table saw blades square to the table, or to set > virtually any angle to make perfect bevel angle cuts. On the miter saw, you > can again set the blade square to the table for accurate and square crosscuts, > or set the blade at any angle, again, for bevel cuts. You can atta
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
My wife, who is also blind, has and really likes one of those robotic vacuums. It makes a lot of sense for us, since if you use it frequently, you're probably going to get better coverage than a blink with an upright would, and it does seem to keep floors quite clean and presentable. This thing finds its own charger and docks with it. That usually is fine, but if for some reason you have to manually dock it, there's no way in hell you can tell if it's charging or not. And, that means it dies somewhere, and we have to talk one of the dogs (usually hers) into finding the thing. The thing plays all manner of little distress tunes when it's tired, when it's stuck, when whatever, and it surely would be a simple thing to just have it beep when the charging circuit closed. I know my wife's talked about that with the vendor so maybe the next release will have that feature. Bill Stephan Kansas City, MO (816)803-2469 William Stephan -Original Message- .From: "Tom Fowle"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> .Sent: 9/25/07 1:06:09 PM .To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com" .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review . .A few years ago a lot of people tried to promote a universal consumer electronics .bus, they had a mess of perfectly usable standards for communicating between .various appliances etc. It would have been a great thing for us as many devices .would have been remotely readable and controllable. . .But guess who, the lawyers decided there would .be too much liability fuss between manufacturers and vendors .of third party equipment, so the idea died. . .If all the promises of internet accessible appliances ever happen, it might .really help, but I ain't holdin my breath. . .Tom . .
Re: [BlindHandyMan] plumbing delemna part 2
I just wonder if a spark plug socket might just fit in there and be the correct size? They come in all kinds of cheapie socket sets. That's a real nerve wrecker, break it off in there and you got a real mess. luck Tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Do you have $900 to spend on a door lock
Dan! The computer might work better if you pulled your thumb out of your but. I don't think I would like one of those locks either and for the same reasons. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 11:10 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Do you have $900 to spend on a door lock My new laptop has a fingerprint lock on it. It is a pain in the ass. I have to swipe my finger multiple times before it recognizes me. For some reason it refuses to recognize me after recovering from hibernate mode. Having this on your house would mean a power source, and battery backup. Sure, I assume you would also have to have a physical key backup, but if you get used to the fingerprint thing, you probably would stop carrying the key. Why else would you have the finger print thingee. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] I wonder.
Ah you are correct that ice is less dense but the structure may allow for easier conduction. The mass is also a good point and the latent heat required to change state from solid to liquid but once the ice is liquid might the water then conduct heat through the spaces? I wonder how big a piece of chicken Phil hauls out of the fridge. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: list handy Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 10:25 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I wonder. I think the ice density thing may be a bit off. For one, ice is less dense than water, thus ice floats. Secondly, even if the fact that the ice is solid any advantage you might obtain from that would be lost due to the energy lost converting ice to water. IE, it requires energy to convert 32 degree F ice to 32 degree water before you even start heating the water. Most likely, the major difference between the egg roll and the chicken is pure mass. The piece of chicken probably weighs a bit more than the egg roll. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] plumbing delemna part 2
Thanks RJ for your response. It seems as if this is not Delta, or "cartridge" type. It seems as if what I need is either a 90dg pliers, a deep socket that will allow the faucet stem to go through, or some formof really deep t-handled thing. I have a faucet in the tiled shower stall that is about 1/2 to 3/4 inches into the wall. Thus I can't get it to turn with wrench or pliers. It is too tight to turn with needle nosed vice grips. The hole in the tile is barely a socket wall thickness greater than the ?3/4? hex nut that hold the stem assembly in place. You've guessed, the washer is worn and it's dripping. Anyone who can add suggestions, please do so. Thanks
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Digital protractors.
Dan, didn't know they'd moved to RS232, they used to use a proprietary interface whose spec I have around somewhere. They made a takbox for a while and Tom Benham also made a very expenwive talkbox for they're tools. I'll check it out and we can buy one. Hopefully they have other tools with RS232 outputs too. not just the angle protractor my guess is that with a bit of fiddling almost any talking note taker etc. with a serial port could be made to read such. gizmos Tom
[BlindHandyMan] Digital protractors.
Hey Tom, Have you ever checked out the Mitutoyo Digimatic Universal Protractor? It says it has an RS232-c output. Think you can sweet talk them out of a demo model and let us know if you can get it to chat, even via a computer is better than nothing. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fw: Talking digital equipment
I've also written to Wixey including an offer of free engineering help from Smith-Kettlewell RERC if he wants. Tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fw: Talking digital equipment
I just dropped a note to Wixey letting them know that I am also a blind handyman and that speech on their digital devices would be wonderful. I also mentioned that, although not perfect, even a beep tone for 90 degrees and 45 degrees might have some use in at least checking out our saws. Something is better than nothing. Possibly if a bunch of folks drop a note to [EMAIL PROTECTED] it might have some impact. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
A few years ago a lot of people tried to promote a universal consumer electronics bus, they had a mess of perfectly usable standards for communicating between various appliances etc. It would have been a great thing for us as many devices would have been remotely readable and controllable. But guess who, the lawyers decided there would be too much liability fuss between manufacturers and vendors of third party equipment, so the idea died. If all the promises of internet accessible appliances ever happen, it might really help, but I ain't holdin my breath. Tom
Re: making things talk Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Lenny, Now-a-days the microcontroller would have the eprom built in and they can "Code protect" the internal memory so you can't copy it. Yep, whenever I seem "no user serviceable parts inside," it makes my fingers itch for tools! Like the upcomming talking book digital players from NLS are gonna be great except they have a non user serviceable battery pack! Humbug! Tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Do you have $900 to spend on a door lock
HI, I really don't have any thing in my house that is worth $900 really I do but I also have insurance.- Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 10:10 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Do you have $900 to spend on a door lock My new laptop has a fingerprint lock on it. It is a pain in the ass. I have to swipe my finger multiple times before it recognizes me. For some reason it refuses to recognize me after recovering from hibernate mode. Having this on your house would mean a power source, and battery backup. Sure, I assume you would also have to have a physical key backup, but if you get used to the fingerprint thing, you probably would stop carrying the key. Why else would you have the finger print thingee. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] choosing a alarm system for your home
Quick story about home alarm systems and phone lines. Several years ago I was talking on the phone with my girlfriend Beth. She lived about 40 minutes drive from me, had three little kids, and a crazy X husband. We were talking on the phone late one night. Suddenly, I heard her alarm go off. I heard her panicked voice say, "Oh my GOD! My alarm!" and then the line went dead. Talk about scared! I tried calling back but I just got her voice mail. I was looking up the number for her police department when she called back. Turned out it was her fire alarm, it was a false alarm, and the phone went dead because the alarm system disconnected us so that it could call the alarm in. that was some of the scarriest couple of minutes of my life. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Do you have $900 to spend on a door lock
My new laptop has a fingerprint lock on it. It is a pain in the ass. I have to swipe my finger multiple times before it recognizes me. For some reason it refuses to recognize me after recovering from hibernate mode. Having this on your house would mean a power source, and battery backup. Sure, I assume you would also have to have a physical key backup, but if you get used to the fingerprint thing, you probably would stop carrying the key. Why else would you have the finger print thingee. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] I wonder.
I am usually wrong regardless of the male female ratio in the house. A physics teacher of mine once got a test back from a student. The question "what are the three forms of heat transfer" was answered by one forgetful student with, Conduction, Convection, and setting a car on fire and rolling it down a hill. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] I wonder.
I think the ice density thing may be a bit off. For one, ice is less dense than water, thus ice floats. Secondly, even if the fact that the ice is solid any advantage you might obtain from that would be lost due to the energy lost converting ice to water. IE, it requires energy to convert 32 degree F ice to 32 degree water before you even start heating the water. Most likely, the major difference between the egg roll and the chicken is pure mass. The piece of chicken probably weighs a bit more than the egg roll. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
