[BlindHandyMan] Exploring Lithium-Ion Power Tools

[Ray Boyce]

Ever wondered how cell phones and laptops keep getting more compact and 
lighter in weight? Part of the answer comes from the breakthrough 
lithium-ion battery
technology. These compact rechargeable batteries provide maximum power and 
longer runtime without adding the extra weight.

This is not the first time lithium-ion changed the way consumers look at 
electronics. And now, after years of research and millions of dollars in 
development
by manufacturers, lithium-ion is starting to revolutionize a whole new 
category-cordless power tools.

>From professional contractors to serious DIYers, lithium-ion battery 
technology is proving to be one of the biggest innovations in nearly 20 
years. It could
arguably be the biggest innovation the industry has experienced to date. As 
users and the industry as a whole try to grasp the magnitude of this 
technology,
understanding the basic benefits and challenges of lithium-ion and cutting 
through the clutter will prove helpful to everyone, no matter the voltage 
size.
Maximum Power, More Runtime and No Weight Penalty

For years, professionals have relied on 18-volt NiCad batteries as the 
primary source for powering cordless tools. For cordless drill/drivers, 
rotary hammers,
reciprocating saws, circular saws, jig saws, miter saws and more, 18-volt 
NiCad was the best balance between performance, weight and price. But just 
like
any technology, users continue to demand more powerful, efficient and 
comfortable tools.

Capitalizing upon the inherent benefits of lithium-based chemistry, tools 
large and small, which were previously impossible with NiCad, are now a 
reality.
Manufacturers can meet the demand and promise for more power and runtime 
without making the tool uncomfortably heavy, as was the case with the 
development
of the 24-volt NiCad tool platform. And unique innovations for ultra-compact 
tools are also possible with mind-boggling power in an extremely small 
package.

For example, at the basic chemistry level, individual NiCad batteries hold 
1.2 volts, while a single lithium-ion cell can hold and use up to 3.6 volts 
and
still weigh less than a NiCad cell. Simply put, lithium-ion cells can either 
hold more power in the same size package or hold the same power in a smaller
package. For example, a 36-volt lithium-ion battery offers twice the voltage 
capacity of an 18-volt NiCad battery for efficient high-amp draw tools, but
weighs nearly the same. A 10.8-volt lithium-ion battery has comparable power 
to a NiCad at the same voltage, but is half the size of a 9.6-volt NiCad.
Less weight combined with compact size and more power makes lithium-ion 
tools easier to handle and more productive, a major advantage for anyone 
using
power tools.

When it comes to more runtime, the fact is that any increase in voltage for 
any battery chemistry will increase runtime. So, by increasing lithium-ion 
batteries
to a higher voltage, such as 36-volts, users inherently benefit with a 
runtime increase. Just like NiCad, though, runtimes vary based on whether a 
particular
application might draw more power than another. But, overall, the larger the 
voltage, the more runtime the user can expect. Moving forward, 36-volt 
batteries
are the highest voltage the market will likely see for power tools.

Additional significant benefits of lithium-ion include a consistent level of 
performance from the beginning to the end of the discharge cycle and the 
ability
to recharge the battery at any time without causing memory effect. With 
lithium-ion, users will not experience the dramatic dip in performance that 
NiCad
batteries yield near complete discharge. The technology also eliminates 
memory effect, when a battery would no longer charge to full capacity after 
being
partially charged and discharged a series of times. So, whether 20-percent 
or 99-percent charged, a user can recharge their battery to full anytime 
without
causing cell damage.

Lithium-ion also provides users with an extended battery shelf life, which 
prevents batteries from drastically discharging when not in use over 
extended
periods of time. Because contractors normally use their tools every day, 
do-it-yourselfers will likely see the greatest benefit. They will be able to 
store
their batteries for months without experiencing a loss of charge. So the 
next time they reach for the tool, it is still ready for use.

Customizable and Task-specific Tools

Among the innovations made possible with the new technology, lithium-ion has 
enabled manufacturers to develop higher amp-draw tools, but also more 
compact
and surprisingly powerful tools. At the lower end of the voltage spectrum, 
lithium-ion allows manufacturers to offer an impressive step up in power in
the smallest package possible. At both ends, users now have the opportunity 
to select task-specific tools for particular applications, rather than only
one tool for tasks large and small.

Most of today's drill/drivers far exceed the level of torque user

Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to Cock Bead a Door or Drawer

[David Ferrin]

Nobody I have ever known can compete with my friend Ray with his skill for 
research. 
David Ferrin
 www.jaws-users.com
- Original Message - 
From: Ray Boyce 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 10:06 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How to Cock Bead a Door or Drawer


A cock bead is a narrow half round bead that surrounds a drawer front or 
door. Cock beads are common on late18th century English and American 
furniture
and provide surface interest to the eye and hand. This simple device can 
dramatically upgrade the appeal of an otherwise plain piece.

Cock Bead

Hinged Cock Bead

A typical cock bead of this period is about 1/8" wide. It is usually formed 
on 3/8" wide strips that are mitered and fitted into rabbets cut around the
drawer or door. If you plan on fitting cock beads to a piece under 
construction consider the following.

It will be hard to sand the face of a drawer once the cock bead is in place. 
Finish sand these surfaces before fitting the cock bead and use the minimum
of glue so none squeezes out where it will be troublesome to remove.

Fit your drawer front or door tight into its opening before cutting the 
rabbet for the cock bead. If your cock bead is 1/8" wide you will need to 
cut the
rabbet 1/8" deep plus the desired gap. If you like 1/32" gaps around doors 
and drawers then cut your rabbet 5/32" deep.

The cock beads can be held in place while the glue dries with staples, which 
if not driven home can easily be removed later.

Shaped hingeAt first glance hinging a cock beaded door would seem simple 
enough, it isn't. A butt hinge is normally mortised equally into the door 
and frame,
if this is done on a cock beaded door the hinge barrel will serve as a 
clumsy interruption to the line of the bead. The only satisfactory way 
around this
problem is to mortise the hinge fully into the bead and not into the frame 
at all. If a hinge were selected that had the same barrel diameter as the 
cock
bead the result would be a door fitted without a gap along the hinged edge. 
As this is not viable the solution is to use a hinge whose barrel diameter
equals the bead diameter plus a small door gap (1/32"-1/16"). If the hinge 
is a high quality extruded type the barrel can be shaped to the profile 
shown
with a good file.



 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] How to Cock Bead a Door or Drawer

[Ray Boyce]

A cock bead is a narrow half round bead that surrounds a drawer front or 
door. Cock beads are common on late18th century English and American 
furniture
and provide surface interest to the eye and hand. This simple device can 
dramatically upgrade the appeal of an otherwise plain piece.

Cock Bead

Hinged Cock Bead

A typical cock bead of this period is about 1/8" wide. It is usually formed 
on 3/8" wide strips that are mitered and fitted into rabbets cut around the
drawer or door. If you plan on fitting cock beads to a piece under 
construction consider the following.

It will be hard to sand the face of a drawer once the cock bead is in place. 
Finish sand these surfaces before fitting the cock bead and use the minimum
of glue so none squeezes out where it will be troublesome to remove.

Fit your drawer front or door tight into its opening before cutting the 
rabbet for the cock bead. If your cock bead is 1/8" wide you will need to 
cut the
rabbet 1/8" deep plus the desired gap. If you like 1/32" gaps around doors 
and drawers then cut your rabbet 5/32" deep.

The cock beads can be held in place while the glue dries with staples, which 
if not driven home can easily be removed later.

Shaped hingeAt first glance hinging a cock beaded door would seem simple 
enough, it isn't. A butt hinge is normally mortised equally into the door 
and frame,
if this is done on a cock beaded door the hinge barrel will serve as a 
clumsy interruption to the line of the bead. The only satisfactory way 
around this
problem is to mortise the hinge fully into the bead and not into the frame 
at all. If a hinge were selected that had the same barrel diameter as the 
cock
bead the result would be a door fitted without a gap along the hinged edge. 
As this is not viable the solution is to use a hinge whose barrel diameter
equals the bead diameter plus a small door gap (1/32"-1/16"). If the hinge 
is a high quality extruded type the barrel can be shaped to the profile 
shown
with a good file.

[BlindHandyMan] Countersink Angles

[Ray Boyce]

The standard countersink angle for screws in the US is 82 degrees. In 
England it is 90 degrees. This small difference is significant and has 
caused us much
head-scratching. If you attempt to install a standard English hinge with an 
American screw of the correct size you will find the screw head sitting too
high. The root of the countersink will bottom out before the periphery. Not 
only will this prevent the hinge from closing completely it is also 
unsightly
and because the contact between the screw and the hinge is limited to a 
small area, the hinge will loosen prematurely. The problem would be much 
less if
the reverse was the case and an English screw was used to install an 
American hinge.

[BlindHandyMan] How to Finish Wooden Knobs

[Ray Boyce]

Most wood knobs are lathe turned from lengths of wood, the grain running 
through the knobs depth (end grain). A few knobs are machined from boards 
with
the grain running across the knob (face grain). Care must be taken when 
finishing end grain wood knobs to avoid an uneven blotchy effect. End grain 
absorbs
much more wood finish than face grain and if that finish happens to be a 
stain the end grain on the front of the knob will appear much darker than 
the
surrounding woodwork. This problem can easily be avoided with a little 
preparation. Wood knobs will come to you with a fairly smooth machined 
finish. Before
any finish is applied the knobs will require finish sanding with abrasive 
paper, 220 grit or finer will do. The face of the knob should receive the 
bulk
of your attention, this area is nothing but end grain and will be most 
visible upon completion. Make sure all sign of concentric machine marks and 
the
little spot in the middle are gone. The knob is now ready for clear finishes 
but if stains are to be used it will be necessary to seal the knob with a
dilute shellac or lacquer coat, we use a topcoat finish mixed 50/50 with 
thinner. Let this sealer dry completely and sand lightly before the stain is 
applied. 

[BlindHandyMan] carpet is in

[chiliblindman]

 Since my son is home from college I had the help I needed to get the 
carpet in today.  Hopefully my daughter and her husband will be here also over 
the weekend and it can all be cleaned, put back together and usable.  That is 
if they want to stay in it.  There might be a little incentive there to get it 
done before bedtime.
 Before everyone goes back to school I will get them to help me strip the 
bath room that goes with that bedroom.  I'll have till spring to remodel it.  I 
do have all the fixtures sitting around here ready to go.  The first project 
will be to continue to replace all the copper water lines.  I had replaced all 
the basement lines with pex and all first floor runs except the kitchen last 
fall I think.  The kitchen lines are in a crawl space.  I'll catch that when I 
re-do the kitchen next year or whenever.  I do have pex over to the risers that 
go up inside the walls to that bath.
 I got my electric bill this week and it took a jump from 100 to almost 190 
bucks.  Heating season is here again, for joy, for joy.
 I do hope you all have a most wonderful Christmas and limit the food 
intake to no more than double the regular.
...bob

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

[Victor Gouveia]

Hi Folks,

I'm just wondering why people are taking a reactionary response to mouse 
catching, rather than a preventative one.

I lived in downtown Toronto for over 20 years.

Not only was our house over 150 years old, but it was right next door to a 
warehouse which used to be the home to various business enterprises.

It ranged from furniture manufacturers, to ice cream vendors to car phone 
installation garage for Rogers Communications when they were linked with 
Cantel.

One of the businesses who leased the place was a tofu processing plant.

While it wasn't a large scale plant, it did have it's share of uninvited 
friends.

These uninvited friends took the shape of 14 inch long sewer rats.

They would chew on anything we put out.  They chewed right through bread 
bags, and even aluminum cans.

The one thing we made sure to do was not just catch the rats, but look at 
their source.

We knew that the next door plant was not the most sanitary place in the 
world, and the rats had to be coming into the house from somewhere, so we 
attacked the problem on two fronts.

We shut down the plant, which cut off the rats food supply, then we looked 
at possible entry points in the house.

Range hoods or vents that did not have a damper or broken flaps.

Holes in the sides of the house which would allow an attacker to enter the 
house.

We also checked the sides of any drains to make sure the wall leading to 
them wasn't coming apart.  We didn't leave a single stone unturned, no 
matter how remote the possibility of entry was.

Suffice it to say, we successfully eliminated the rats, mice, cockroaches 
and any other unwanted little friendlies.

Essentially what I mean is that you should be looking for the source of the 
population of critters and not trying to catch them once their in the house.

I love it when I would visit a patient at home, after they told me this 
giant sob story about how they don't understand why they have so many bugs 
in the house, or mice, or that their landlords are slum lords, only to find 
that it was the patient who was a complete slob, and just didn't take care 
of their environment.

My tenants would be the same way.

When ever they complained about rats, mice or bugs, I would call in the 
exterminating company, and follow it up with a visit to the apartment to 
find out where they're coming from, as they can't just be walking in the 
front door with the tenant.

I'm not saying that you are like this, but I'm hoping it makes you think of 
what you should be looking for instead of placing a band-aid solution on the 
problem.

Victor Gouveia 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters

[Bob Kennedy]

I would say that depends more on the climate and how well insulated the pipes 
are during that run.  I have known people that had their water heater between 
40 and 50 feet from the shower and they had to install one of those little 5 
gallon electric water heaters inline so the shower wouldn't waste all the hot 
water warming up the pipes on the way to the shower...
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 8:44 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters


  There is a certain distance, I think it is 60 feet, in which a tankless
  water heater can effectively conduct hot water. Can I assume that this
  would be the same distance as with a regular water heater?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Ray Boyce
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 12:32 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters

  Hi

  Try here
  http://www.e-tankless.com/  
  - Original Message - 
  From: "tunecollector" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
   >
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
  >
  Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 7:24 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters

  > Any info on electrical tankless water heaters?
  >
  > -Original Message-
  > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]
  > On Behalf Of Ray Boyce
  > Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 12:10 PM
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 

  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters
  >
  > Tankless water heaters have been in use all over the world for fifty 
  > years,
  > largely because of smaller homes and higher energy costs outside the 
  > United
  > States. In fact, tank water heaters are only used in the U.S. As natural 
  > gas
  >
  > and LP prices rise (as they have for the past decade) it will cost 
  > consumers
  > more to heat water. Imagine cutting water heating costs by 50 to 70
  > percent - think tankless water heaters.
  >
  > Tankless water heaters - often called "on demand" water heaters - only 
  > heat
  > water when needed. Tank water heaters, on the other hand, keep the water 
  > hot
  > all of the time and, when on standby, loose about 6 degrees an hour. Heat 
  > in
  >
  > the form of Btu's also escapes up through the flue pipe constantly. Tank
  > water
  > heaters are incredibly inefficient and yet are used in the majority of
  > American homes. Tank water heaters have a life expectancy of around 10
  > years, depending
  > on incoming water quality. Tankless water heaters, on the other hand have 
  > a
  > life expectancy of 20 plus years and carry a warranty on the heat 
  > exchanger
  > from 10 to 15 years (depending on the manufacturer).
  >
  > A tankless water heater can save about 70 percent of natural gas or LP
  > expense a year for heating water except when the Teenage Daughter Factor
  > comes into
  > play - more on this later. The major differences, aside from energy 
  > savings,
  >
  > are a gain in floor space of about 20 square feet and an endless supply of
  > hot water.
  >
  > Tankless water heaters come equipped with the latest water heating
  > technology and, as a result, sell for around one thousand dollars. The
  > payback period
  > will depend on how much hot water is used in the home. The more hot water
  > used, the faster the payback.
  >
  > Tankless water heaters are a good choice for singles or small families
  > simply because the demand for hot water is not as great as for a large
  > family. And
  > yet, a small family pays for heating water 24/7 with a tank water heater.
  >
  > The Teenage Daughter Factor: While it is true that tankless water heaters
  > can help you realize a substantial savings in gas consumption, this may 
  > not
  > be
  > possible in all cases. For example, if you now have a teenager (son or
  > daughter) who likes to spend a lot of time in the shower - to the point of
  > using
  > all of the hot water in the home - you will probably use more gas than you
  > presently do. This is because a tankless water heater never runs out of 
  > hot
  > water with the end result being that the previously 20-minute shower can 
  > now
  >
  > run forever, or until you lay down some shower-length rules.
  >
  > A Closer Look
  >
  > In this short article we will look at gas-fired (natural gas or LP) 
  > tankless
  >
  > water heaters that offer an endless supply of hot water for an entire
  > two-bath
  > home. Also available are electrically powered tankless water heaters and
  > point-of-use tankless water heaters, which will not be covered here. For
  > opt

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters

[tunecollector]

There is a certain distance, I think it is 60 feet, in which a tankless
water heater can effectively conduct hot water.  Can I assume that this
would be the same distance as with a regular water heater?

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Ray Boyce
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 12:32 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters

Hi

Try here
http://www.e-tankless.com/  
- Original Message - 
From: "tunecollector" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 >
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
>
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 7:24 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters

> Any info on electrical tankless water heaters?
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 ]
> On Behalf Of Ray Boyce
> Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 12:10 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 

> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters
>
> Tankless water heaters have been in use all over the world for fifty 
> years,
> largely because of smaller homes and higher energy costs outside the 
> United
> States. In fact, tank water heaters are only used in the U.S. As natural 
> gas
>
> and LP prices rise (as they have for the past decade) it will cost 
> consumers
> more to heat water. Imagine cutting water heating costs by 50 to 70
> percent - think tankless water heaters.
>
> Tankless water heaters - often called "on demand" water heaters - only 
> heat
> water when needed. Tank water heaters, on the other hand, keep the water 
> hot
> all of the time and, when on standby, loose about 6 degrees an hour. Heat 
> in
>
> the form of Btu's also escapes up through the flue pipe constantly. Tank
> water
> heaters are incredibly inefficient and yet are used in the majority of
> American homes. Tank water heaters have a life expectancy of around 10
> years, depending
> on incoming water quality. Tankless water heaters, on the other hand have 
> a
> life expectancy of 20 plus years and carry a warranty on the heat 
> exchanger
> from 10 to 15 years (depending on the manufacturer).
>
> A tankless water heater can save about 70 percent of natural gas or LP
> expense a year for heating water except when the Teenage Daughter Factor
> comes into
> play - more on this later. The major differences, aside from energy 
> savings,
>
> are a gain in floor space of about 20 square feet and an endless supply of
> hot water.
>
> Tankless water heaters come equipped with the latest water heating
> technology and, as a result, sell for around one thousand dollars. The
> payback period
> will depend on how much hot water is used in the home. The more hot water
> used, the faster the payback.
>
> Tankless water heaters are a good choice for singles or small families
> simply because the demand for hot water is not as great as for a large
> family. And
> yet, a small family pays for heating water 24/7 with a tank water heater.
>
> The Teenage Daughter Factor: While it is true that tankless water heaters
> can help you realize a substantial savings in gas consumption, this may 
> not
> be
> possible in all cases. For example, if you now have a teenager (son or
> daughter) who likes to spend a lot of time in the shower - to the point of
> using
> all of the hot water in the home - you will probably use more gas than you
> presently do. This is because a tankless water heater never runs out of 
> hot
> water with the end result being that the previously 20-minute shower can 
> now
>
> run forever, or until you lay down some shower-length rules.
>
> A Closer Look
>
> In this short article we will look at gas-fired (natural gas or LP) 
> tankless
>
> water heaters that offer an endless supply of hot water for an entire
> two-bath
> home. Also available are electrically powered tankless water heaters and
> point-of-use tankless water heaters, which will not be covered here. For
> optimum
> efficiency, tankless water heaters should be centrally located in the 
> home,
> as this will reduce the time required to get hot water to a tap or faucet.
> Keep in mind that water is not heated until needed. In fact, the heater 
> will
>
> not turn on until a hot-water tap is opened. If the tankless water heater
> is located on the far end of a home, it may take a minute or two for hot
> water to begin flowing from the tap.
>
> Tankless water heaters are controlled by a small computer and a bunch of
> sensors, which note the temperature of the incoming cold water and a 
> number
> of
> other operational factors. When a tap is opened, the computer determines 
> the
>
> amount of heat required to raise the temperature of the incoming water to
> the desired hot-water t

Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

[David Sexton]

I did that. A bucket of water, a bent hanger and a soda can with top and bottom 
removed covered in peanut butter. Little mice aren't so good at the tredmill 
and fall into the water. Caught about 7 a night.
  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 2:00 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap


  Robert, do tell.

  I have heard of a couple ways of doing this with bait suspended over a 
partially-filled bucket on something like a tuna fish can on an axel. 
  Maybe a little see-saw with a small counter weight would work too.

  I'd do this if I had a real bad infestation, otherwise I'd try one of the rat 
zappers someone mentioned. 
  We have a cat who is extremely good at keeping the mouse population well 
under control, but 
  I understand not all cats will do this.

  Bill Stephan
  Kansas City, MO
  (816)803-2469
  William Stephan

  -Original Message-
  From: "robert moore"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Sent: 12/21/07 1:58:38 PM
  To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com"
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

  Can mice swim?
  If not I have just invented the perfect mouce trap.
  Now I just need to make a prototype.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Jesus Is the Answer
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 11:35 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

  Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap? I see even electronic ones made by
  the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional one for
  generations. The problem I have been having is that I think that the mice
  are getting smarter and more athletic. If caught, they manage to get out.
  However, most of the time they are able to lick the peanut butter off of the
  treddle without it snapping. Any ideas?

  ---Anthony

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

[cheetah]

well just get them out of the house.
i use theese electronic repellers.
they are dual mode.
they emit a sound and they put some kind of puls through the electric 
wires that the mice do not like.
i got 3 of them for $20 about 5 years ago.
got mine through finger hut but they are all over.
they  claim they work on bugs too but there are still a few spiders 
and the like around here.

before i got the repellers i could count on about catching about 14 
mice every couple months now i am lucky if i get one a year.
jim
At 11:34 AM 12/21/2007, you wrote:

>Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap? I see even electronic ones 
>made by the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional 
>one for generations. The problem I have been having is that I think 
>that the mice are getting smarter and more athletic. If caught, they 
>manage to get out. However, most of the time they are able to lick 
>the peanut butter off of the treddle without it snapping. Any ideas?
>
>---Anthony
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1192 - Release Date: 
>12/21/2007 1:17 PM

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Another use for Mouse Traps

[Bob Kennedy]

I haven't used traps for a good while now.  But maybe you can play with this 
idea and come up with a better mouse trap.  

When I had my first shop, way back before internet and cell phones and all the 
good stuff, I couldn't afford to have a fancy burglar alarm installed.  So I 
got a little junction box which stayed live with 12 volt power.  I ran wires 
from the box to the windows around the shop.  At each window I took a mouse 
trap and mounted a little steel plate with pop rivets.  On the side of the 
plate I soldered a positive wire, and had a wire soldered to the trap arm.  
When the trap was sprung it completed the circuit which started a siren from a 
fire truck.  Anyone trying to break in was met by several angry neighbors 
because they didn't care for the siren going off in the middle of the night.  

Maybe you could play with this idea and make a new kind of trap.  I haven't 
done much thinking on it but DC current isn't a very effective tool for doing 
much but shocking the heck out of someone.  But like I said I haven't toyed 
with this idea at all.  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 5:24 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap


  HI, I use the RAT ZAPPER and it works great really nice that you don't even 
have to handle the mouse...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jesus Is the Answer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 11:34 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

  Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap? I see even electronic ones made by 
the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional one for generations. 
The problem I have been having is that I think that the mice are getting 
smarter and more athletic. If caught, they manage to get out. However, most of 
the time they are able to lick the peanut butter off of the treddle without it 
snapping. Any ideas?

  ---Anthony

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

[Bob Kennedy]

That doesn't have the same effect on kitchen grease as dish soap.
- Original Message - 
From: "Little Freak" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 1:53 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps


> has anyone every tried GoJo in there drain this might work if you pour
> enough in it and let it set. That is if your problem is grease in the 
> drain.
> Now if it is the city pipes that might be a different deal. Just a 
> thought.
>
>
>
> thanks, Little Freak([EMAIL PROTECTED])
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
> Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 9:39 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps
>
> Unless all of your plumbing is plastic don't use salt, it will eat your
> pipes.
>
> The best thing for grease is detergent. Every time you are washing up you
> are going to emulsify some of that grease into suspension and help carry 
> it
> away.
>
> Heat, as in hot water will also melt grease although it will reconsolidate
> further along as it cools. Most petroleum based solvents will also thin or
> dilute even animal fats but they are usually quite flammable so not 
> usually
> a good thing to tip down a drain.. All this assumes you are on municipal
> sewers. Be a little careful about how much of anything you pour down a
> septic system.
>
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]  Skype DaleLeavens Come and 
> meet
> Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: Lee A. Stone
> To: Blind Handyman
> Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 5:56 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps
>
> Long ago we had a discussion on her as to what works good in home sewer
> traps, like the ones under the kitchen sink and that main trap before 
> things
> leafve the house. I have a feeling that someone here has not wiped a 
> greasy
> pan out like after having cooked sausage or a burger. It was my turn to do
> the dish's today and I am positive I felt grease on the little dohangis 
> that
> stops up the water. so besides buying liquid plumber what might be good 
> for
> possible grease in a trap. is it baking soda, rock salt? any and all
> answers, suggestions would be appreciated.
> thanks.lee
>
> --
> Did you hear that two rabbits escaped from the zoo and so far they have 
> only
> recaptured 116 of them?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1191 - Release Date: 
> 12/20/2007
> 2:14 PM
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1191 - Release Date: 
> 12/20/2007
> 2:14 PM
>
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the 
> following address for more information:
> http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com
>
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following 
address for more information:
http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com

For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
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<*> To change settings via email:
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mailto:[EMAIL PROTEC

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

[Bob Kennedy]

No need to apologize.  As I understood it he had a large amount of grease in 
the pipes.  That's why I said coffee grounds would add to the clog.  And if the 
pipes are cast iron there's no telling what else is inside...


  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 8:36 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps


  Hi Bob,

  I didn't hear anything about there being a clog.

  All I heard in the message was that he wanted to know what would be a good 
  remedy for cleaning out the drains.

  If I missed the information about there being a clog, then I apologize. I 
  just don't think I heard anything of that kind.

  Victor Gouveia 



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

[Rob Monitor]

HI, I use the RAT ZAPPER and it works great really nice that you don't even 
have to handle the mouse...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jesus Is the Answer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 11:34 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap


  Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap? I see even electronic ones made by 
the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional one for generations. 
The problem I have been having is that I think that the mice are getting 
smarter and more athletic. If caught, they manage to get out. However, most of 
the time they are able to lick the peanut butter off of the treddle without it 
snapping. Any ideas?

  ---Anthony

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage

[Bob Kennedy]

For the work you are doing the aluminum would work great.  Never have to worry 
about oopsing in a tight spot and breaking the plastic.  

That liner is going to make it rough to weld.  Maybe you can put a flange on 
the end and bolt into the frame/  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 7:29 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage


  Sounds good my man...
  I have some scrap 3/4" aluminum square bar stock laying around somewhere.
  I'm thinking I could drill it tap one side and a nurreled fastener to hold
  it together at the pivot. I might even drill and tap holes in the free ends
  of my basic gage to assist with compounds or offsets. It is going in Carol's
  nephew's k5 blazer so there isn't a lot of really tight work. The bad news
  is, the kid never heard of "prior planning prevents piss poor performance."
  He had the damn thing about 80% finished when the roll-bar penny dropped for
  him. The rule is I don't even touch it until the interior, electrics and
  fuel systems are all out of the vehicle. He had all of the inside body
  panels coated with ryno-liner which will make it just that much more fun.
  The only reason I am even considering this Charlie Foxtrot is because the
  kid is one hell of an artist and photographer and I want a portfolio of my
  work done.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 2:04 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage

  Ah. Now I see where you are heading... I have a small tool I bought at
  Lowes and a large one I made myself. 

  The tool at Lowes is called a bevel scale. Basically it is a thin piece of
  metal with a slot in it. There is a handle made of wood or plastic that the
  metal piece fits in. When it is stored everything is tucked in the handle
  except for about 2 inches or so. There is a knurled knob that tightens to
  hold the angle. To find the angle you loosen the knob, pull the metal piece
  out of the handle and the handle becomes 1 side of the angle and the metal
  piece can be moved around until you have the other side of the angle. Just
  tighten the knob and it will give you the angle you just set and you can
  carry the tool to the bench or where ever you need it. 

  Seeing as you are going to use this on something pretty large, you can make
  your own to do the same thing but the larger size will make sure you can
  account for the span as far across the roof as you want. 

  I took 2 pieces of Plexiglas and actually cut them on the table saw so they
  were about 2 inches wide. You could probably talk the folks at the orange
  or blue boxes out of a couple pieces of scraps... Lay the 2 pieces on top
  of each other and drill a hole through 1 end of both pieces about an inch or
  2 from the ends. Take a machine screw, number 10 or larger just so it won't
  work its way through the Plexiglas and crack it. Put a washer, I used
  fender washers because of the width. Put 1 on each side and 1 between the 2
  legs of Plexiglas. Use a wing nut to tighten the screw and now you have a
  large model bevel scale. You can hold 1 leg vertically and the other can
  run across the roof line to get your outside angles. once you get that part
  done you can lay the tubes on the floor and find the cross member angles. 

  They have tools available to cut the fish mouth in the ends of the round
  tubes so the tube will fit nice and tight against the sides. 

  If it doesn't work for you at least you're only out about 2 dollars... The
  tool from Lowes sells for around 10. I know there are some other models out
  there but the ones I've actually seen won't help you with what you are doing
  because they are pretty small in size and you could be off by several
  degrees in the end. That will cause much preaching and carrying on when you
  start to weld. And now you have the reason for that mig welder!
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 10:34 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage

  I have a chop saw what I am looking for is something that I can use to
  measure the angles inside the body shell and transfer those measurements
  to
  my saw or tubing bender. I have a couple of ideas and will probably see
  what
  I can't mouse together.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 7:13 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage

  How are you planning to cut the tubing? I took a power miter saw and put
  an
  abrasive blade in it that will cut through steel. I can get the most
  common
  angles just like in wood. As for a tool 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

[Dale Leavens]

I doubt that the powder was egg shell. Egg shell is mostly calcium which would 
dissolve in even a very mild acid solution and be carried into the weeping bed 
wouldn't it? Leave an egg in vinegar and the shell dissolves and the protein of 
the egg begins to coagulate. It becomes rubbery. Try it, it is sort of fun.

I don't think that a reasonably operating drain will choke on coffee grounds 
but I do believe they are a potential clog builder along with hair, grease and 
what ever else.This does not mean they will do so.

When I lived in England we always poured our tea leaves down the drain. How 
times change. They used to laugh at North Americans using tea bags. Now when I 
go to visit, tea bags is all they use.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: robert moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 9:57 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps



  That's interesting, I always put the coffee grounds down the kitchen drain
  and I never have had a problem with it.
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Tony
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 10:51 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

  My parents used to put coffee grounds and egg shells through the disposal.
  Rarely had any problems with the kitchen drain. Daddy did find about 6
  inches of egg shell powder in the septic tank when he opened it after about
  35 years.

  Tony

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]
  On Behalf Of Rob Monitor
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 9:18 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

  HI, You mite try using vinegar and baking soda.. Put a good amount of soda
  in the drain and then the vinegar... Let it set and work for a long wile
  and then run the water and see what happens...
  ROB FROM MINNESOTA- Original Message -
  From: Bob Kennedy
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 7:54 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

  Depending on the severity of the clog, give something like Dawn
  dishwashing liquid a big squeeze directly into the drain and then dump some
  very hot water in after it. It may have to have a couple doses of hot water
  dumped in. If you see progress repeat it. If not no harm was done. But think
  about it. Dish soap is used to dissolve grease so using a larger amount of
  dish soap will make it stronger and the hot water helps to melt the grease
  as well. I've done this myself that's why I can pass it along.
  - Original Message -
  From: Lee A. Stone
  To: Blind Handyman
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 5:56 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

  Long ago we had a discussion on her as to what works good in home sewer
  traps, like the ones under the kitchen sink and that main trap before
  things leafve the house. I have a feeling that someone here has not
  wiped a greasy pan out like after having cooked sausage or a burger. It
  was my turn to do the dish's today and I am positive I felt grease on
  the little dohangis that stops up the water. so besides buying liquid
  plumber what might be good for possible grease in a trap. is it baking
  soda, rock salt? any and all answers, suggestions would be appreciated.
  thanks.lee

  --
  Did you hear that two rabbits escaped from the zoo and so far they have
  only recaptured 116 of them?

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  
  or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ 

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  

  If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following
  address for more information:
  http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com
 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

[William Stephan]

Robert, do tell.

I have heard of a couple ways of doing this with bait suspended over a 
partially-filled bucket on something like a tuna fish can on an axel. 
Maybe a little see-saw with a small counter weight would work too.

I'd do this if I had a real bad infestation, otherwise I'd try one of the rat 
zappers someone mentioned.  
We have a cat who is extremely good at keeping the mouse population well under 
control, but 
I understand not all cats will do this.

 Bill Stephan
Kansas City, MO
(816)803-2469
William Stephan


-Original Message-
From: "robert moore"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: 12/21/07 1:58:38 PM
To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com"
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

Can mice swim?
If not I have just invented the perfect mouce trap.
Now I just need to make a prototype.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Jesus Is the Answer
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 11:35 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap? I see even electronic ones made by
the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional one for
generations. The problem I have been having is that I think that the mice
are getting smarter and more athletic. If caught, they manage to get out.
However, most of the time they are able to lick the peanut butter off of the
treddle without it snapping. Any ideas?

---Anthony

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

[Dale Leavens]

Yes,

I have heard that for years now. I wouldn't say it isn't possible, I suspect it 
is improbable though.

Sand doesn't scrub out a river, it fills it up.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 8:38 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps


  Hi Dale,

  I thought that coffee was a bit acidic, therefore it would make a good drain 
  cleaner.

  I've even spoken to a few plumbers who said that coffee grounds were a good 
  remedy for cleaning drains, as the grounds act like an abrasive against the 
  sides of the drain, and the acidic quality of the coffee will latch onto any 
  food particles in the drain and dissolve it.

  Granted, it's a slow process, not as quick acting as the acid drain 
  cleaners, but a cheap alternative nonetheless.

  Victor Gouveia 



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fw: From Kim Komando a computer expert.....

[Mike Rusk]

I personally wouldn't buy a refurbished HP, did that once, never again.  But, 
then again, if you can for sure get good support for it, might not have the 
same experience I had.
As for outlook express on vista, it is called windows mail.  It is almost the 
same except the contact list, comparable to the addressbook, is separate from 
the mail so you can access it from anywhere.
I was fortunate when my old system crashed to have some one copy my important 
stuff to CD's and then I just imported the email files to the new computer and 
copied the other stuff to my documents folder.
Good luck.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 4:37 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Fw: From Kim Komando a computer expert.


  Hi All,
  I have been entertaining the thought of upgrading my computer to the HP 
refirbished 2.6 machine mentioned on buy.com. A friend sent me the following 
information. I am wondering if this will be able to transfer all of my email 
accounts and settings. I can't find anything that specifically mentions outlook 
express. From what I read Vista uses a different email program.

  - Original Message - 
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 7:01 PM
  Subject: From Kim Komando a computer expert.

  Buying a new Windows computer
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  My computer is on its last legs. So I will be buying a new one soon. It’s 
been a while since I’ve been computer shopping. I’m not sure what to buy. All I 
know is that it will run Vista. Can you give me some help?

  You can still get computers that run Windows XP. But Vista, whatever its 
faults, is the future. We've used Vista all year in the office. It has worked 
fine. 

  Vista requires a more powerful machine than XP. That means you may have to 
spend more than you planned.

  There are several versions of Vista. Vista Home Basic is just that—basic. 
Skip it. Go with Home Premium or Ultimate.

  Home Premium and Ultimate give you a much better experience. You’ll be able 
to see all the improvements in Vista’s design. There are also more features in 
these editions. For example, they both include Media Center. To learn more 
about the different versions of Vista, read my buying guide. 

  With Vista, you’ll need plenty of RAM. The minimum you’ll need for Home Basic 
is 512 megabytes. For other versions of Vista, you’ll need 1GB. I would double 
this. Otherwise, be prepared to add more RAM later. This is particularly true 
if you'll do photo or video editing.

  You’ll also need plenty of graphics power. That’s due to Vista’s Aero 
interface. The minimum amount of video RAM you need for Vista is 128MB. Again, 
I would double this.

  Buy a computer with a dedicated graphics card. The card will have its own 
memory.

  Cheaper computers have the graphics system built in to the motherboard. This 
is called integrated graphics. If you buy a computer with integrated graphics, 
the system RAM will also be used for graphics. This will slow down your machine.

  Things are different if you’re buying a laptop. You may opt for integrated 
graphics to improve battery life. Also, it will be more difficult to find a 
laptop with a dedicated video card. If you go with integrated graphics, settle 
for no less than 2GB of system RAM.

  You may want to add RAM later. Make sure the laptop will accept more RAM. 
Some top out at 2GB.

  Most people focus on the processor when buying a computer. These days, chips 
are powerful enough that most will do just fine. However, I'd stay away from 
the budget chips—Intel Celeron and AMD Sempron. 

  I would go with Intel’s Core 2 Duo or AMD’s Athlon 64 X2 dual-core chip. With 
laptops, buy AMD’s Turion or Intel’s Core 2 Duo Mobile.

  Don’t worry too much about processor speed. Any of these processors will be 
fast. But if you can get a deal on a faster chip, go for it. 

  Hard drive capacities just grow and grow. If you’re buying a desktop 
computer, the hard drive will probably be 160GB or larger. This is more than 
adequate—unless you’re doing video editing. With laptops, hard drive size is 
more limited. I would aim for 80GB or larger on a laptop.

  A CD/DVD burner is also essential. Fortunately, it should be standard on most 
computers you’ll see.

  Also, the computer should have plenty of USB ports. Some laptops only have 
two; I would shoot for three or four. Memory card readers are also a nice 
touch. However, they’re useless if they don’t accept the cards from your 
gadgets.

  Once you get your new machine, you’ll need to set it up. Vista has a tool 
that will help you transfer data easily. It’s called Easy Transfer. I have a 
tip that explains it.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] My 2 cents about safety

[William Stephan]

Spiro, this is where a guy in a tree locks the throttle on his saw, grabs the 
starter cord and drops the unit.  


 Bill Stephan
Kansas City, MO
(816)803-2469
William Stephan


-Original Message-
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: 12/20/07 2:27:01 PM
To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com"
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] My 2 cents about safety

what is the drop saw method in the movies?
What is missing in it's mechanics for safety?


On Tue, 11 Dec 2007, William Stephan wrote:

> When I was in the equipment leasing/rental business, for a while I was the
> guy who demonstrated the use of chainsaws to the folks we had as customers.
> I had thought originally that being blind might have distracted them from
> the safety stuff I was saying, but everyone I asked said it really stuck
> with them after seeing me start and use a saw.  Most of the first-time users
> were all set to do the old drop-start the way they saw linesmen and timber
> cutters do it in the movies, and disabusing them of that probably really did
> keep some injuries from happening.
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 11:20 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] My 2 cents about safety
>
>
>
> There is also the numbers angle. While anyone could run over a can of gas
> with a snow blower the likelihood of a sighted person doing it is much less.
>
> I wouldn't suggest for a moment that the blind wouldn't or shouldn't have
> accidents neither would I suggest that sighted people on the whole are
> usually good judges of where all the dangers lay or which are the more
> significant ones.
>
> with sighted people cutting fingers off every day it is unrealistic to
> assume no blind person will ever cut off a finger, that would be expecting a
> standard of function above that of sighted persons. While this may often be
> true it is nevertheless an unrealistic expectation. I am betting that per
> pedestrian mile walked blind people are less frequently hit by cars than
> sighted people, I would love to see someone collect statistics on that. We
> may well actually be safer on foot than sighted people and we may, in
> general be safer with chain saws or other tools than sighted people.
> Certainly I have never heard of a blind person killed in an industrial
> accident the numbers must be very small but then the numbers of blind
> persons working in industry are way too damn small.
>
> I well remember an argument with an insurance salesman when I was purchasing
> business insurance many many years ago. I wanted a premium discount since I
> had to sign a waver that I could not claim blindness as a work limiting
> disability. I felt since that was a potentially very expensive claim they
> would never face it limited their liability and I should get a discount for
> that.
>
> He tried to tell me that my chances of a work disabling injury were greater
> since I was blind. I countered that I wasn't so sure of that, I hardly ever
> flew an aeroplane or drove a car or played football or hockey or drove drunk
> or any number of other high risk activities sighted people commonly engaged
> in.
>
> I didn't earn my discount of course but it did make me think about this sort
> of thing quite a bit.
>
> Sometimes the injuries we might receive have a bigger impact than they might
> to a sighted person. I truly don't want to damage my hearing and I fear I
> have neglected it a little over the years. I really need my fingers too. Of
> course there is Dennis Brown who was a sighted guy when military ordinance
> blew off his hands, the lower half of his face, destroyed something like 80%
> of his hearing and blinded him. I wonder if as a blind person now people
> would tell him not to fiddle with such dangerous equipment? Probably though
> it didn't bother the military when he could see.
>
> Just some thoughts to thicken the soup.
>
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]  net
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: RJ
> To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:44 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] My 2 cents about safety
>
> It sounds like the doctor that ask to see my thumb a few days after I tried
> to cut it off with a hand ax while splitting wood. He asked how in the hell
> did you do that? I told him with a ax. He went on and on how a blind person
> shouldn't be using tools that are dangerous. I calmly ask him how many blind
> persons verses sighted people he sees that cut off a finger or two, and bet
> him there were more sighted persons than blind persons that come to him for
> this reason. He gave in by telling me after thirty years dealing with me, he
> should have known better than tr

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters

[Michael Baldwin]

Hi, thanks for the info.  i am currently looking in to tankless water
heaters.  Our tank one is over 21 years old.  I want to get one by the end
of the years so i can take advantage of the $300 tax credit.  taking the
credit in to account, that brings a tankless down in price with the tank
heaters.  i run propane, and the cheapest water heater I have found for tank
is over $550.00.
 Michael
 
  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Ray Boyce
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 14:10
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters



Tankless water heaters have been in use all over the world for fifty years, 
largely because of smaller homes and higher energy costs outside the United
States. In fact, tank water heaters are only used in the U.S. As natural gas

and LP prices rise (as they have for the past decade) it will cost consumers
more to heat water. Imagine cutting water heating costs by 50 to 70 
percent - think tankless water heaters.

Tankless water heaters - often called "on demand" water heaters - only heat 
water when needed. Tank water heaters, on the other hand, keep the water hot
all of the time and, when on standby, loose about 6 degrees an hour. Heat in

the form of Btu's also escapes up through the flue pipe constantly. Tank 
water
heaters are incredibly inefficient and yet are used in the majority of 
American homes. Tank water heaters have a life expectancy of around 10 
years, depending
on incoming water quality. Tankless water heaters, on the other hand have a 
life expectancy of 20 plus years and carry a warranty on the heat exchanger
from 10 to 15 years (depending on the manufacturer).

A tankless water heater can save about 70 percent of natural gas or LP 
expense a year for heating water except when the Teenage Daughter Factor 
comes into
play - more on this later. The major differences, aside from energy savings,

are a gain in floor space of about 20 square feet and an endless supply of
hot water.

Tankless water heaters come equipped with the latest water heating 
technology and, as a result, sell for around one thousand dollars. The 
payback period
will depend on how much hot water is used in the home. The more hot water 
used, the faster the payback.

Tankless water heaters are a good choice for singles or small families 
simply because the demand for hot water is not as great as for a large 
family. And
yet, a small family pays for heating water 24/7 with a tank water heater.

The Teenage Daughter Factor: While it is true that tankless water heaters 
can help you realize a substantial savings in gas consumption, this may not 
be
possible in all cases. For example, if you now have a teenager (son or 
daughter) who likes to spend a lot of time in the shower - to the point of 
using
all of the hot water in the home - you will probably use more gas than you 
presently do. This is because a tankless water heater never runs out of hot
water with the end result being that the previously 20-minute shower can now

run forever, or until you lay down some shower-length rules.

A Closer Look

In this short article we will look at gas-fired (natural gas or LP) tankless

water heaters that offer an endless supply of hot water for an entire 
two-bath
home. Also available are electrically powered tankless water heaters and 
point-of-use tankless water heaters, which will not be covered here. For 
optimum
efficiency, tankless water heaters should be centrally located in the home, 
as this will reduce the time required to get hot water to a tap or faucet.
Keep in mind that water is not heated until needed. In fact, the heater will

not turn on until a hot-water tap is opened. If the tankless water heater
is located on the far end of a home, it may take a minute or two for hot 
water to begin flowing from the tap.

Tankless water heaters are controlled by a small computer and a bunch of 
sensors, which note the temperature of the incoming cold water and a number 
of
other operational factors. When a tap is opened, the computer determines the

amount of heat required to raise the temperature of the incoming water to
the desired hot-water temperature. Then the burner is electronically fired 
up - there is no pilot light - and the incoming water is heated to the 
desired
temperature as it passes through the heat exchanger. The end result is an 
endless supply of hot water. When the hot water tap is closed, the burner is
turned off and the exhaust fan turns on to vent the unit.

We will look at three of the top gas-fired tankless water heaters currently 
in use in modern American homes: the Takagi TK-2 Flash Water Heater, the 
Rinnai
Continuum and the Bosch AquaStar 250SX. All of these heaters are top of the 
line and ideal for supplying an unlimited supply of hot water for the 
average
or large home. While the Takagi and Rinnai heaters can only be purchased and

installed by a licensed installer, the Bosch Aq

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters

[Ray Boyce]

Hi

Try here
http://www.e-tankless.com/
- Original Message - 
From: "tunecollector" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 7:24 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters


> Any info on electrical tankless water heaters?
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Ray Boyce
> Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 12:10 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters
>
> Tankless water heaters have been in use all over the world for fifty 
> years,
> largely because of smaller homes and higher energy costs outside the 
> United
> States. In fact, tank water heaters are only used in the U.S. As natural 
> gas
>
> and LP prices rise (as they have for the past decade) it will cost 
> consumers
> more to heat water. Imagine cutting water heating costs by 50 to 70
> percent - think tankless water heaters.
>
> Tankless water heaters - often called "on demand" water heaters - only 
> heat
> water when needed. Tank water heaters, on the other hand, keep the water 
> hot
> all of the time and, when on standby, loose about 6 degrees an hour. Heat 
> in
>
> the form of Btu's also escapes up through the flue pipe constantly. Tank
> water
> heaters are incredibly inefficient and yet are used in the majority of
> American homes. Tank water heaters have a life expectancy of around 10
> years, depending
> on incoming water quality. Tankless water heaters, on the other hand have 
> a
> life expectancy of 20 plus years and carry a warranty on the heat 
> exchanger
> from 10 to 15 years (depending on the manufacturer).
>
> A tankless water heater can save about 70 percent of natural gas or LP
> expense a year for heating water except when the Teenage Daughter Factor
> comes into
> play - more on this later. The major differences, aside from energy 
> savings,
>
> are a gain in floor space of about 20 square feet and an endless supply of
> hot water.
>
> Tankless water heaters come equipped with the latest water heating
> technology and, as a result, sell for around one thousand dollars. The
> payback period
> will depend on how much hot water is used in the home. The more hot water
> used, the faster the payback.
>
> Tankless water heaters are a good choice for singles or small families
> simply because the demand for hot water is not as great as for a large
> family. And
> yet, a small family pays for heating water 24/7 with a tank water heater.
>
> The Teenage Daughter Factor: While it is true that tankless water heaters
> can help you realize a substantial savings in gas consumption, this may 
> not
> be
> possible in all cases. For example, if you now have a teenager (son or
> daughter) who likes to spend a lot of time in the shower - to the point of
> using
> all of the hot water in the home - you will probably use more gas than you
> presently do. This is because a tankless water heater never runs out of 
> hot
> water with the end result being that the previously 20-minute shower can 
> now
>
> run forever, or until you lay down some shower-length rules.
>
> A Closer Look
>
> In this short article we will look at gas-fired (natural gas or LP) 
> tankless
>
> water heaters that offer an endless supply of hot water for an entire
> two-bath
> home. Also available are electrically powered tankless water heaters and
> point-of-use tankless water heaters, which will not be covered here. For
> optimum
> efficiency, tankless water heaters should be centrally located in the 
> home,
> as this will reduce the time required to get hot water to a tap or faucet.
> Keep in mind that water is not heated until needed. In fact, the heater 
> will
>
> not turn on until a hot-water tap is opened. If the tankless water heater
> is located on the far end of a home, it may take a minute or two for hot
> water to begin flowing from the tap.
>
> Tankless water heaters are controlled by a small computer and a bunch of
> sensors, which note the temperature of the incoming cold water and a 
> number
> of
> other operational factors. When a tap is opened, the computer determines 
> the
>
> amount of heat required to raise the temperature of the incoming water to
> the desired hot-water temperature. Then the burner is electronically fired
> up - there is no pilot light - and the incoming water is heated to the
> desired
> temperature as it passes through the heat exchanger. The end result is an
> endless supply of hot water. When the hot water tap is closed, the burner 
> is
> turned off and the exhaust fan turns on to vent the unit.
>
> We will look at three of the top gas-fired tankless water heaters 
> currently
> in use in modern American homes: the Takagi TK-2 Flash Water Heater, the
> Rinnai
> Continuum and the Bosch AquaStar 250SX. All of these heaters are top of 
> the
> line and ideal for supplying an unlimited supply of hot water for the
> average
> or large home. While 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters

[tunecollector]

Any info on electrical tankless water heaters?

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Ray Boyce
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 12:10 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters

Tankless water heaters have been in use all over the world for fifty years, 
largely because of smaller homes and higher energy costs outside the United
States. In fact, tank water heaters are only used in the U.S. As natural gas

and LP prices rise (as they have for the past decade) it will cost consumers
more to heat water. Imagine cutting water heating costs by 50 to 70 
percent - think tankless water heaters.

Tankless water heaters - often called "on demand" water heaters - only heat 
water when needed. Tank water heaters, on the other hand, keep the water hot
all of the time and, when on standby, loose about 6 degrees an hour. Heat in

the form of Btu's also escapes up through the flue pipe constantly. Tank 
water
heaters are incredibly inefficient and yet are used in the majority of 
American homes. Tank water heaters have a life expectancy of around 10 
years, depending
on incoming water quality. Tankless water heaters, on the other hand have a 
life expectancy of 20 plus years and carry a warranty on the heat exchanger
from 10 to 15 years (depending on the manufacturer).

A tankless water heater can save about 70 percent of natural gas or LP 
expense a year for heating water except when the Teenage Daughter Factor 
comes into
play - more on this later. The major differences, aside from energy savings,

are a gain in floor space of about 20 square feet and an endless supply of
hot water.

Tankless water heaters come equipped with the latest water heating 
technology and, as a result, sell for around one thousand dollars. The 
payback period
will depend on how much hot water is used in the home. The more hot water 
used, the faster the payback.

Tankless water heaters are a good choice for singles or small families 
simply because the demand for hot water is not as great as for a large 
family. And
yet, a small family pays for heating water 24/7 with a tank water heater.

The Teenage Daughter Factor: While it is true that tankless water heaters 
can help you realize a substantial savings in gas consumption, this may not 
be
possible in all cases. For example, if you now have a teenager (son or 
daughter) who likes to spend a lot of time in the shower - to the point of 
using
all of the hot water in the home - you will probably use more gas than you 
presently do. This is because a tankless water heater never runs out of hot
water with the end result being that the previously 20-minute shower can now

run forever, or until you lay down some shower-length rules.

A Closer Look

In this short article we will look at gas-fired (natural gas or LP) tankless

water heaters that offer an endless supply of hot water for an entire 
two-bath
home. Also available are electrically powered tankless water heaters and 
point-of-use tankless water heaters, which will not be covered here. For 
optimum
efficiency, tankless water heaters should be centrally located in the home, 
as this will reduce the time required to get hot water to a tap or faucet.
Keep in mind that water is not heated until needed. In fact, the heater will

not turn on until a hot-water tap is opened. If the tankless water heater
is located on the far end of a home, it may take a minute or two for hot 
water to begin flowing from the tap.

Tankless water heaters are controlled by a small computer and a bunch of 
sensors, which note the temperature of the incoming cold water and a number 
of
other operational factors. When a tap is opened, the computer determines the

amount of heat required to raise the temperature of the incoming water to
the desired hot-water temperature. Then the burner is electronically fired 
up - there is no pilot light - and the incoming water is heated to the 
desired
temperature as it passes through the heat exchanger. The end result is an 
endless supply of hot water. When the hot water tap is closed, the burner is
turned off and the exhaust fan turns on to vent the unit.

We will look at three of the top gas-fired tankless water heaters currently 
in use in modern American homes: the Takagi TK-2 Flash Water Heater, the 
Rinnai
Continuum and the Bosch AquaStar 250SX. All of these heaters are top of the 
line and ideal for supplying an unlimited supply of hot water for the 
average
or large home. While the Takagi and Rinnai heaters can only be purchased and

installed by a licensed installer, the Bosch AquaStar is available at home
centers and can be installed by a homeowner.

Installing a tankless water heater in new construction is easier than 
installing in a remodel. Part of the reason for this is that because 
gas-fired tankless
water heaters are capable of generating a great amount of Btu's (up to 
195,000 Btu's on start-up

[BlindHandyMan] Revitalize a Dormant Lawn

[Ray Boyce]

 My neighborhood is suffering an ugly case of "yellow" fever. Thankfully, I 
don't mean the African virus. The yellow I'm referring to
is the dull, dry, dormant yellow-brown grass that's carpeting everyone's 
lawns. If you live anywhere like Alabama, winter has a bad habit of sucking 
the
vibrant colors out of your surroundings and replacing them with drab and 
dreary grays, browns, whites . and yellows. Lawns are no exception to the 
whitewashing
effect of winter, but we can always count on spring to put a little 
brightness back in our lives. Still, sometimes Mother Nature needs a little 
nudge,
especially in the case of thin patches or bald spots. Bringing the lawn up 
to snuff is the first big project of the season for many homeowners, and EHT
takes a look at some tips and techniques to nurse your yard back to a thick, 
lush, green turf.

Breathe Life into the Lawn

After the cold season, many lawns are in fair condition, meaning grass is 
established, but it has thinned or browned. Many grasses will naturally wake 
up
and become green with the spring, but that's not the case for bare spots. 
Those areas require a little tender loving care. A tried-and-true method to 
jumpstart
a healthy lawn is to aerate and over-seed the yard.

Aeration fights thatch and soil compaction. Over time, built-up thatch and 
tightly packed soil can choke off nutrients from the grass. More than 
3/4-inch
of accumulated thatch can lead to lawn disease, insect infestation and 
ultimately drought. Soil compaction, due to traffic, rain and erosion, can 
do the
same. An aerator is a machine that minimizes compaction by thinning the 
tightly packed soil while also removing built-up thatch. In lawn 
maintenance, aerating
literally means "to supply with air;" it allows air, water and nutrients to 
enter the soil and nourish the lawn.

Aeration should be done after the lawn has been mowed down to about 2 inches 
high. The most effective type of aerator is a "core" aerator, which uses 
hollow
tines to remove "cores" or plugs of soil, leaving them laying on the lawn's 
surface to return nutrients to the grass as they dissolve. Many 
homeowner-type
aerators use spikes that simply poke holes in the soil, but these types 
aren't quite as efficient. Some aerators are available as walk-behind or 
ride-on
gas models, while other versions can be towed as an attachment behind a lawn 
tractor.

Keep in mind that core aeration should only be done to correct problems of 
soil compaction and thatch buildup. It's a great way to wake up an unkempt 
lawn
at the first of spring, prior to fertilizing, but shouldn't be a part of 
routine maintenance. If you're thinking of purchasing an aerator, know that 
the
machine will see a lot of downtime. And gas-powered models are expensive for 
most consumers, on a cost per application basis. So, for this reason, if you
don't want to invest money in the machine or store it during its lengthy off 
season, you might consider renting one.

Seed and Fertilize

With a freshly aerated lawn, you're ready to over-seed the turf. Make sure 
you've chosen seed that grows well in your area and matches the pre-existing
lawn to avoid a patchy appearance. The type of grass appropriate for your 
area depends on latitude, elevation and exposure. If you're unsure, then 
inquire
at a local garden center as to what works in your neck of the woods.

Over-seeding can flesh out bald or thin spots of the lawn.

Two things are important when seeding: quantity and coverage. You want to 
use plenty of seed. For a brand new lawn, 6-8 pounds per 1,000 square feet 
is
not excessive. For an existing lawn that you want to "thicken up," 3 or 4 
pounds per 1,000 feet should be plenty. Check the seed package or ask your 
local
professional for specific instructions. Spread the seed in a criss-cross 
pattern, using some sort of seed-spreading device to achieve even coverage. 
Spreading
seed by hand does a lousy job. Using a dedicated seed spreader-even an 
inexpensive handheld model-gets the best results.

Prior to spreading the seed, remove all loose thatch and lawn debris and 
work the soil of bare spots and thin areas to a depth of 1/4 to 1/2 inch. 
This
can be done with any sharp garden tool or rake. This may not be necessary if 
you've used an aerator. But if you haven't, then cultivating the soil gives
the seed a place to lodge. Then, after spreading the seed, use a rake to 
work the seed just below the surface of the soil. This also helps break up 
any
soil cores the aerator has left on the lawn.

Next, spread fertilizer. Some products are available as a mixture of seed 
and fertilizer. Otherwise, follow the seed with a good "starter" fertilizer 
with
a high middle number (phosphorous), such as 20-27-5 (most common starter 
analysis found at retail). Keep the new seeds moist. Water your lawn twice a 
day,
10 minutes per watered area. The idea is to keep the top 1 inch of soil 
moist, so water often rather than deeply. The seeds should germ

[BlindHandyMan] Up Close with Tankless Water Heaters

[Ray Boyce]

Tankless water heaters have been in use all over the world for fifty years, 
largely because of smaller homes and higher energy costs outside the United
States. In fact, tank water heaters are only used in the U.S. As natural gas 
and LP prices rise (as they have for the past decade) it will cost consumers
more to heat water. Imagine cutting water heating costs by 50 to 70 
percent - think tankless water heaters.

Tankless water heaters - often called "on demand" water heaters - only heat 
water when needed. Tank water heaters, on the other hand, keep the water hot
all of the time and, when on standby, loose about 6 degrees an hour. Heat in 
the form of Btu's also escapes up through the flue pipe constantly. Tank 
water
heaters are incredibly inefficient and yet are used in the majority of 
American homes. Tank water heaters have a life expectancy of around 10 
years, depending
on incoming water quality. Tankless water heaters, on the other hand have a 
life expectancy of 20 plus years and carry a warranty on the heat exchanger
from 10 to 15 years (depending on the manufacturer).

A tankless water heater can save about 70 percent of natural gas or LP 
expense a year for heating water except when the Teenage Daughter Factor 
comes into
play - more on this later. The major differences, aside from energy savings, 
are a gain in floor space of about 20 square feet and an endless supply of
hot water.

Tankless water heaters come equipped with the latest water heating 
technology and, as a result, sell for around one thousand dollars. The 
payback period
will depend on how much hot water is used in the home. The more hot water 
used, the faster the payback.

Tankless water heaters are a good choice for singles or small families 
simply because the demand for hot water is not as great as for a large 
family. And
yet, a small family pays for heating water 24/7 with a tank water heater.

The Teenage Daughter Factor: While it is true that tankless water heaters 
can help you realize a substantial savings in gas consumption, this may not 
be
possible in all cases. For example, if you now have a teenager (son or 
daughter) who likes to spend a lot of time in the shower - to the point of 
using
all of the hot water in the home - you will probably use more gas than you 
presently do. This is because a tankless water heater never runs out of hot
water with the end result being that the previously 20-minute shower can now 
run forever, or until you lay down some shower-length rules.

A Closer Look

In this short article we will look at gas-fired (natural gas or LP) tankless 
water heaters that offer an endless supply of hot water for an entire 
two-bath
home. Also available are electrically powered tankless water heaters and 
point-of-use tankless water heaters, which will not be covered here. For 
optimum
efficiency, tankless water heaters should be centrally located in the home, 
as this will reduce the time required to get hot water to a tap or faucet.
Keep in mind that water is not heated until needed. In fact, the heater will 
not turn on until a hot-water tap is opened. If the tankless water heater
is located on the far end of a home, it may take a minute or two for hot 
water to begin flowing from the tap.

Tankless water heaters are controlled by a small computer and a bunch of 
sensors, which note the temperature of the incoming cold water and a number 
of
other operational factors. When a tap is opened, the computer determines the 
amount of heat required to raise the temperature of the incoming water to
the desired hot-water temperature. Then the burner is electronically fired 
up - there is no pilot light - and the incoming water is heated to the 
desired
temperature as it passes through the heat exchanger.  The end result is an 
endless supply of hot water. When the hot water tap is closed, the burner is
turned off and the exhaust fan turns on to vent the unit.

We will look at three of the top gas-fired tankless water heaters currently 
in use in modern American homes: the Takagi TK-2 Flash Water Heater, the 
Rinnai
Continuum and the Bosch AquaStar 250SX. All of these heaters are top of the 
line and ideal for supplying an unlimited supply of hot water for the 
average
or large home. While the Takagi and Rinnai heaters can only be purchased and 
installed by a licensed installer, the Bosch AquaStar is available at home
centers and can be installed by a homeowner.

Installing a tankless water heater in new construction is easier than 
installing in a remodel. Part of the reason for this is that because 
gas-fired tankless
water heaters are capable of generating a great amount of Btu's (up to 
195,000 Btu's on start-up) an adequate supply of gas must be available to 
the unit.
Gas piping must therefore be sized properly. A gas shut-off valve must be 
installed below the tankless hot water heater so the unit can be serviced if
required.

Generally speaking, 3/4-inch black iron pipe can be run up to about 20 fee

RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

[Little Freak]

I think they can but if it and the mouse is submerge it doesn't matter.  


thanks, Little Freak([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of robert moore
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 2:59 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

Can mice swim?
If not I have just invented the perfect mouce trap.
Now I just need to make a prototype.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 ]On Behalf Of Jesus Is the Answer
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 11:35 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap? I see even electronic ones made by
the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional one for
generations. The problem I have been having is that I think that the mice
are getting smarter and more athletic. If caught, they manage to get out.
However, most of the time they are able to lick the peanut butter off of the
treddle without it snapping. Any ideas?

---Anthony

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1191 - Release Date: 12/20/2007
2:14 PM



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Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1191 - Release Date: 12/20/2007
2:14 PM
 



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 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

[robert moore]

Can mice swim?
If not I have just invented the perfect mouce trap.
Now I just need to make a prototype.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Jesus Is the Answer
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 11:35 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap? I see even electronic ones made by
the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional one for
generations. The problem I have been having is that I think that the mice
are getting smarter and more athletic. If caught, they manage to get out.
However, most of the time they are able to lick the peanut butter off of the
treddle without it snapping. Any ideas?

---Anthony

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] How to Choose a Christmas Tree

[Ray Boyce]

Choosing a Christmas tree may not be as simple as you think. There are real 
trees, artificial trees and even still-living trees. So, which one of these
do you choose? Here's a list of the pros and cons for each type.

Real Trees
Trees produce oxygen and consume carbon dioxide, which makes them 
eco-friendly. According to the
National Christmas Tree Association
over 30 million people buy real trees each year.
Doityourself.com
states that for every tree harvested there are three more that are planted 
each year. A real tree can also be
recycled.
Many trees are thrown into lakes, giving fish a natural habitat, or they're 
turned into mulch.

That all might sound good, but there is a downside. Not all of the trees are 
found locally. Transportation is still part of the process and may counter
the other benefits. Buying locally can help. Many farms also use pesticides 
so you will want to find a certified organic tree farm in your area.
Green Promise
publishes a
list
of organic tree farms.
Puget Sound Fresh
also lists local farmers markets and farms that have trees. Local co-ops, 
natural grocery stores and farmers markets may also have listings for 
organic
trees. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is another type of farm management 
system. These are not as environmentally friendly as organic farms but are 
better
than conventional farms that routinely spray trees.

Fake Trees
About 70 percent of people bought an
artificial tree
last year, despite the fact that they are made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) 
and metals.
PVC
is a potential source of hazardous lead. Most, about 85 percent, are 
imported from China. Many even contain warnings about the products used in 
them. Artificial
trees are not biodegradable so they will stay in landfills for years to 
come.

One eco-friendly aspect of these trees is that they can be reused year after 
year. On average, they are used for five to 10 years. One
CNN report
claims that some parts of an artificial tree may be recycled, depending on 
what the tree is made of. Check on how the tree was made and packaged before
buying.
Balsam Hill
makes artificial trees that contain less PVC than most fake trees. You could 
also consider an aluminum tree.

Live Trees
The first thing to consider with a live tree is if you can handle
planting a tree.
Potted trees will need a lot of care to survive until being planted. Many 
trees will not be able to live indoors until spring when the ground has 
thawed.
Do a little research to find a species native to your area that can survive 
in a container for several months. Check with your local greenhouse for the
best options.

There is always the option of getting a potted tabletop tree that could be 
planted in your yard or a local park. A tree from your own yard could also 
be
left outside and decorated each year. 

[BlindHandyMan] ConsumerReports.org - Drain cleaners 11/06: Clogged drain, plunger

[Lenny McHugh]

Here is some information on drain cleaning and the use of coffee grounds. From 
advise of a friend I disagree with the description of the use of a plunger. The 
article is correct as to seal the overflow  holes and to put water in the sink 
that covers the plunger. Where I disagree is that they say to vigorously work 
the plunger. Since most clogs are packed in the trap or pipe pushing helps to 
pack the clog. I will slowly push the plunger down and quickly pull it back 
hoping to pull the clog out. My favorite tool for this is my shop vac. It pulls 
out the clog and neatly deposits it inside vac.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/home-garden/cleaning-supplies/drain-cleaners/overview/1106_drain_ov_1.htm

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

[robert moore]

I have one of those live traps you are talking about and they work great.
Once the mouse gets in the box it is quite literally impossible to get out.
Even if a mouse had enough brainpower to figure out just how the thing works
it would not be able to open the door because of the way it swings shut.
Don't remember what I paid for it but they are quite cheep.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Little Freak
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 1:13 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

I have heard of one that catches it a live. it works like a box with a trap
door. Then you just do what ever you want to distinguish them. If you have a
pet snake or someone that does the snake will appreciate it, or just drown
it and flush it. Don't know how well it works though. Oh They say rats and
mouse can't see good and they use baseboards and other objects to guide them
around. They use there nose for smell and whiskers to help them find stuff.
Oh I also heard they have uncontrolling bladders and pee Constance.


thanks, Little Freak([EMAIL PROTECTED])
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jesus Is the Answer
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 12:35 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap? I see even electronic ones made by
the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional one for
generations. The problem I have been having is that I think that the mice
are getting smarter and more athletic. If caught, they manage to get out.
However, most of the time they are able to lick the peanut butter off of the
treddle without it snapping. Any ideas?

---Anthony

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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2:14 PM



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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

[Little Freak]

coffee grounds will stop up your drain. I don't think you want any thing but
soap and water going through your drains and then soap will eventually  get
a build up.


thanks, Little Freak([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Victor Gouveia
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 8:39 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

Hi Dale,

I thought that coffee was a bit acidic, therefore it would make a good drain
cleaner.

I've even spoken to a few plumbers who said that coffee grounds were a good
remedy for cleaning drains, as the grounds act like an abrasive against the
sides of the drain, and the acidic quality of the coffee will latch onto any
food particles in the drain and dissolve it.

Granted, it's a slow process, not as quick acting as the acid drain
cleaners, but a cheap alternative nonetheless.

Victor Gouveia 



 


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Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1191 - Release Date: 12/20/2007
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To listen to the show archives go to link
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ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

[Little Freak]

I have heard of one that catches it a live. it works like a box with a trap
door. Then you just do what ever you want to distinguish them. If you have a
pet snake or someone that does the snake will appreciate it, or just drown
it and flush it. Don't know how well it works though. Oh They say rats and
mouse can't see good and they use baseboards and other objects to guide them
around. They use there nose for smell and whiskers to help them find stuff.
Oh I also heard they have uncontrolling bladders and pee Constance.


thanks, Little Freak([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jesus Is the Answer
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 12:35 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap? I see even electronic ones made by
the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional one for
generations. The problem I have been having is that I think that the mice
are getting smarter and more athletic. If caught, they manage to get out.
However, most of the time they are able to lick the peanut butter off of the
treddle without it snapping. Any ideas?

---Anthony

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1191 - Release Date: 12/20/2007
2:14 PM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1191 - Release Date: 12/20/2007
2:14 PM
 



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

[Little Freak]

has anyone every tried GoJo in there drain this might work if you pour
enough in it and let it set. That is if your problem is grease in the drain.
Now if it is the city pipes that might be a different deal. Just a thought.



thanks, Little Freak([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 9:39 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

Unless all of your plumbing is plastic don't use salt, it will eat your
pipes.

The best thing for grease is detergent. Every time you are washing up you
are going to emulsify some of that grease into suspension and help carry it
away.

Heat, as in hot water will also melt grease although it will reconsolidate
further along as it cools. Most petroleum based solvents will also thin or
dilute even animal fats but they are usually quite flammable so not usually
a good thing to tip down a drain.. All this assumes you are on municipal
sewers. Be a little careful about how much of anything you pour down a
septic system.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet
Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

- Original Message -
From: Lee A. Stone
To: Blind Handyman
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 5:56 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

Long ago we had a discussion on her as to what works good in home sewer
traps, like the ones under the kitchen sink and that main trap before things
leafve the house. I have a feeling that someone here has not wiped a greasy
pan out like after having cooked sausage or a burger. It was my turn to do
the dish's today and I am positive I felt grease on the little dohangis that
stops up the water. so besides buying liquid plumber what might be good for
possible grease in a trap. is it baking soda, rock salt? any and all
answers, suggestions would be appreciated. 
thanks.lee

--
Did you hear that two rabbits escaped from the zoo and so far they have only
recaptured 116 of them?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1191 - Release Date: 12/20/2007
2:14 PM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1191 - Release Date: 12/20/2007
2:14 PM
 



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

[mark]

try the rat zapper
runs on 4 a-a batteries and did the trick for me took out a few squirrels and 
chipmunks and a few mice
cost about 25.00 or so but really did the trick just don't do like i did 
turned it on and could not believe this thing could really work and stuck my 
hand in the box and wow it sent me accross the porch  and had a tingly arm for 
a few hours after
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jesus Is the Answer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 12:34 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap


  Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap? I see even electronic ones made by 
the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional one for generations. 
The problem I have been having is that I think that the mice are getting 
smarter and more athletic. If caught, they manage to get out. However, most of 
the time they are able to lick the peanut butter off of the treddle without it 
snapping. Any ideas?

  ---Anthony

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] A Better Mouse Trap

[Jesus Is the Answer]

Does anyone recommend a good mouse trap?  I see even electronic ones made by 
the Victor Company, which has been making the traditional one for generations.  
The problem I have been having is that I think that the mice are getting 
smarter and more athletic.  If caught, they manage to get out.  However, most 
of the time they are able to lick the peanut butter off of the treddle without 
it snapping.  Any ideas?
   
  ---Anthony


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Installing a Drop Leaf Table Hinge

[David Sexton]

Because the pieces of wood that slide out to support the leaf wouldn't e
able to slide past the hinge.
Also, a piano hinge won't support weight as well since the screws would be
in the same direction of the force of anything on the table. The screws
would eventually pull loose.

- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 4:47 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Installing a Drop Leaf Table Hinge


I can't see why going through all this trouble.
Why not use a piano hinge from underneath and install it while the boards
are snugged up tight on horizontal?

On Fri, 21 Dec 2007, Boyce, Ray wrote:

> Installing a Drop Leaf Table Hinge
>
> Drop leaf table hinge in the dropped position
>
> Drop leaf table hinge in the raised position
>
> Drop Leaf Rule Joint
>
> While at first glance the rule joint seems simple, the realities of this
joint can be frustratingly troublesome. A first attempt will often result in
a
> joint that scrapes and binds or leaves unsightly gaps. To get it right the
first time requires both an understanding and application of the geometry at
> work.
>
> These days the majority of us will cut the rule joint profiles with a
router. Though this tool can quickly produce a very accurate pair of
matching cuts,
> it can just as easily cut a good looking but unworkable joint.
>
> Because different hinges will require different settings for your router,
hinge selection must be your starting point. A rule joint hinge is specially
manufactured
> with an extra wide leaf to span the joint. Because it is screwed into the
underside of the table with the barrel facing up it is countersunk on the
reverse
> side.
>
> Start by opening the hinge and laying it barrel upward on a flat surface.
Accurately measure up from this surface to the center of the hinge pin. In
the
> case of our standard drop leaf hinges this measurement will be 1/8"
(Alternatively, and assuming the hinge is a traditional flat back style you
can simply
> measure the hinge barrel and divide by two). When this hinge is mortised
into the underside of the tabletop the center of rotation of the table leaf
will
> be 1/8" up from the bottom.
>
> Most tabletops are built of 3/4" thick material and so it seems reasonable
to select a 1/2" radius cutter for the joint. Many woodworkers cutting a
rule
> joint for the first time will fail to take into account the center of
rotation described above and will assume a 1/2" radius cutter will leave a
1/4" fillet
> in 3/4" stock. If a 1/2" radius cutter is set correctly, with the center
of its described circle raised 1/8" above the underside of the table, the
fillet
> will actually be only 1/8" not 1/4". An 1/8" fillet is a workable minimum
because, while the fillet is cut into the tabletop, the table leaf must
match
> its profile with perhaps 1/32" clearance. With a full 3/4" material
thickness, that will leave an edge of 3/32" which should be regarded as the
absolute
> minimum. If the tabletop is thinner due to planing or sanding, then a 1/2"
radius cutter will be too large and must be abandoned in favor of a 7/16" or
> smaller pair of bits.
>
> After having established the center of rotation as defined by the hinge
choice and having selected the cutter, you can run the profile on the table
top.
> If you are using a 1/2" radius cutter you will need to set the base of
your router to cut a fillet of a thickness that is the result of the
following formula:
>
> Tabletop thickness (3/4") minus 1/2 hinge barrel diameter (1/8") minus
cutter radius (1/2")
>
> With this profile cut you can run the mating profile in the table leaf.
Ideally you would select a cutter with a 1/32" larger radius to provide a
little
> clearance at the joint. Such cutters are not generally available, so in
order to create the needed clearance, you will separate the leaves by this
much
> when installing the hinges.
>
> The hinges can now be mortised. The first cut will be in the table top and
will accommodate the hinge barrel. This is best cut with a ¼" straight
cutter.
> The center of this cut should be a 1/64" outboard of a line drawn down
from the vertical cut left by your radius cutter. With the table top upside
down
> and with its leaf nesting in place but separated by 1/32", lay the hinge
barrel in it's mortise and with a sharp knife scribe its outline. Finally
route
> a mortise to set the hinge flush with the table underside and screw into
place. Make sure the table leaf remains firmly in place during this
operation.
>
> **
> This message and its attachments may contain legally
> privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
> intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
> information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
> in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
> e-mail and delete the e-mail.
>
> Any content of this message and its attachments which
> does not relate to the

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

[robert moore]

That's interesting, I always put the coffee grounds down the kitchen drain
and I never have had a problem with it.
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Tony
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 10:51 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

My parents used to put coffee grounds and egg shells through the disposal.
Rarely had any problems with the kitchen drain. Daddy did find about 6
inches of egg shell powder in the septic tank when he opened it after about
35 years.

Tony


-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 ]
On Behalf Of Rob Monitor
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 9:18 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

HI, You mite try using vinegar and baking soda.. Put a good amount of soda
in the drain and then the vinegar... Let it set and work for a long wile
and then run the water and see what happens...
ROB FROM MINNESOTA- Original Message -
From: Bob Kennedy
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 7:54 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

Depending on the severity of the clog, give something like Dawn
dishwashing liquid a big squeeze directly into the drain and then dump some
very hot water in after it. It may have to have a couple doses of hot water
dumped in. If you see progress repeat it. If not no harm was done. But think
about it. Dish soap is used to dissolve grease so using a larger amount of
dish soap will make it stronger and the hot water helps to melt the grease
as well. I've done this myself that's why I can pass it along.
- Original Message -
From: Lee A. Stone
To: Blind Handyman
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 5:56 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

Long ago we had a discussion on her as to what works good in home sewer
traps, like the ones under the kitchen sink and that main trap before
things leafve the house. I have a feeling that someone here has not
wiped a greasy pan out like after having cooked sausage or a burger. It
was my turn to do the dish's today and I am positive I felt grease on
the little dohangis that stops up the water. so besides buying liquid
plumber what might be good for possible grease in a trap. is it baking
soda, rock salt? any and all answers, suggestions would be appreciated.
thanks.lee

--
Did you hear that two rabbits escaped from the zoo and so far they have
only recaptured 116 of them?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] New batteries.

[Don]

I don't know, they say up to 500 charges,  but on charge  say 221,  it would be 
interesting too see how much of the bats original  power, and longjebdy  would 
still be left in the battery. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 6:35 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New batteries.


  Unless it's truly new teck,
  the alkaline part will eventually wear down.
  I've recharged alkaline batts, in a unit I had. It can be done. It gives 
  you about 50% or original once. So there is a savings.
  But with that said, after a while it would seem that only the NMH 
  characteristics would remain. NO?

  On Thu, 20 Dec 2007, Don wrote:

  > Lenny, I called our wall-mart, they have them in the camera department. You 
might check with the camera department their are at CVS are wall greens drug 
stores.
  > I will probably be getting a set of double A and a set of triple A soon all 
so.
  > - Original Message -
  > From: Lenny McHugh
  > To: Handyman-Blind
  > Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 4:02 PM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New batteries.
  >
  >
  > Don,
  > Have you seen these batteries anywhere? I called Rayovac and they could not
  > tell me of a place to purchase in my area. They mentioned Walmart, Lowes and
  > Home Depot. I called each of these stores and they acted as if I was smoking
  > something and on full charge.
  > Lenny
  > - Original Message -
  > From: "Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > To: "blind handy man" 
  > Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 4:12 PM
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New batteries.
  >
  > I wonder how good this type of battery is, has any one tried these bats
  > yet?
  >
  > New HYBRIDT Batteries from Rayovac Deliver Best of Both Worlds
  >
  > New Technology Combines Convenience of Alkaline and
  > Economic, Environmental Benefits of Rechargeable Batteries
  >
  > MADISON, Wis.--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Each year, consumers spend more than $3.5
  > billion on batteries for everything from digital cameras to flashlights. But
  > despite
  > the obvious benefits of rechargeable batteries, including less environmental
  > waste and costs savings over time, less than 5% of all the batteries sold
  > in the U.S. are rechargeable. A new product from Rayovac promises to change
  > all that. HYBRIDT Batteries, featuring a breakthrough technology, deliver
  > the
  > benefits of rechargeable batteries, but eliminate common user frustrations
  > to provide the world's most user-friendly rechargeable battery to date.
  >
  > Rayovac, one of the nation's top battery brands, has identified two main
  > reasons why consumers have not been purchasing rechargeable batteries at a
  > high
  > rate since their introduction to the marketplace in 1996. One, all
  > rechargeable batteries on the U.S. market today need to be charged,
  > sometimes as long
  > as a full day, prior to initial use. This makes them rather inconvenient for
  > the consumers who recognize a need to use rechargeable batteries
  > immediately,
  > right out of the package.
  >
  > Two, once charged, rechargeable batteries left sitting will discharge rather
  > quickly when not in use, so they are dead when you are ready to use your
  > device.
  > Some batteries can drain in less than a month, without ever being used.
  > Consumers accustomed to purchasing the always convenient alkaline batteries
  > are
  > often turned off by their first experience with traditional rechargeable
  > products.
  >
  > "Consumer frustrations with current rechargeable batteries have fueled our
  > search for new technology at Rayovac, where we have strived to launch a
  > product
  > that changes the way the world looks at rechargeable batteries" said Sean
  > Martin, vice president at Rayovac. "HYBRID rechargeable batteries combine
  > all
  > the economic and environmental benefits of rechargeables with the
  > convenience and user-friendly attributes of the more common alkaline
  > batteries."
  >
  > The new HYBRID batteries from Rayovac offer many benefits over both
  > rechargeable and alkaline batteries on the market today. HYBRID batteries
  > come charged
  > and ready to use, which allows consumers to use them upon purchase. This is
  > not the case with any other rechargeable battery on the U.S. market, which
  > often need to be charged for several hours before use. The new batteries
  > from Rayovac also self-discharge at a much slower rate, which means they
  > stay
  > charged for up to one year after charge.
  >
  > The HYBRID batteries are also user-friendly because they work in all NiMH
  > chargers and are suitable for use in any device.
  >
  > The most important benefits, perhaps, are the performance and endurance
  > characteristics of the HYBRID batteries. The new batteries hold their charge
  > up
  > to four times longer than conventional rechargeables when not in use and
  > last three times longer than alkaline in

[BlindHandyMan] fun projects

[Gary Hale]

Here are some slightly dangerous projects to do with your kids over the
break:

http://dangerouslyfun.com/

Gary

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

[Victor Gouveia]

Hi Dale,

I thought that coffee was a bit acidic, therefore it would make a good drain 
cleaner.

I've even spoken to a few plumbers who said that coffee grounds were a good 
remedy for cleaning drains, as the grounds act like an abrasive against the 
sides of the drain, and the acidic quality of the coffee will latch onto any 
food particles in the drain and dissolve it.

Granted, it's a slow process, not as quick acting as the acid drain 
cleaners, but a cheap alternative nonetheless.

Victor Gouveia 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

[Victor Gouveia]

Hi Bob,

I didn't hear anything about there being a clog.

All I heard in the message was that he wanted to know what would be a good 
remedy for cleaning out the drains.

If I missed the information about there being a clog, then I apologize.  I 
just don't think I heard anything of that kind.

Victor Gouveia 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Installing a Drop Leaf Table Hinge

[spiro]

I can't see why going through all this trouble.
Why not use a piano hinge from underneath and install it while the boards 
are snugged up tight on horizontal?

On Fri, 21 Dec 2007, Boyce, Ray wrote:

> Installing a Drop Leaf Table Hinge
>
> Drop leaf table hinge in the dropped position
>
> Drop leaf table hinge in the raised position
>
> Drop Leaf Rule Joint
>
> While at first glance the rule joint seems simple, the realities of this 
> joint can be frustratingly troublesome. A first attempt will often result in a
> joint that scrapes and binds or leaves unsightly gaps. To get it right the 
> first time requires both an understanding and application of the geometry at
> work.
>
> These days the majority of us will cut the rule joint profiles with a router. 
> Though this tool can quickly produce a very accurate pair of matching cuts,
> it can just as easily cut a good looking but unworkable joint.
>
> Because different hinges will require different settings for your router, 
> hinge selection must be your starting point. A rule joint hinge is specially 
> manufactured
> with an extra wide leaf to span the joint. Because it is screwed into the 
> underside of the table with the barrel facing up it is countersunk on the 
> reverse
> side.
>
> Start by opening the hinge and laying it barrel upward on a flat surface. 
> Accurately measure up from this surface to the center of the hinge pin. In the
> case of our standard drop leaf hinges this measurement will be 1/8" 
> (Alternatively, and assuming the hinge is a traditional flat back style you 
> can simply
> measure the hinge barrel and divide by two). When this hinge is mortised into 
> the underside of the tabletop the center of rotation of the table leaf will
> be 1/8" up from the bottom.
>
> Most tabletops are built of 3/4" thick material and so it seems reasonable to 
> select a 1/2" radius cutter for the joint. Many woodworkers cutting a rule
> joint for the first time will fail to take into account the center of 
> rotation described above and will assume a 1/2" radius cutter will leave a 
> 1/4" fillet
> in 3/4" stock. If a 1/2" radius cutter is set correctly, with the center of 
> its described circle raised 1/8" above the underside of the table, the fillet
> will actually be only 1/8" not 1/4". An 1/8" fillet is a workable minimum 
> because, while the fillet is cut into the tabletop, the table leaf must match
> its profile with perhaps 1/32" clearance. With a full 3/4" material 
> thickness, that will leave an edge of 3/32" which should be regarded as the 
> absolute
> minimum. If the tabletop is thinner due to planing or sanding, then a 1/2" 
> radius cutter will be too large and must be abandoned in favor of a 7/16" or
> smaller pair of bits.
>
> After having established the center of rotation as defined by the hinge 
> choice and having selected the cutter, you can run the profile on the table 
> top.
> If you are using a 1/2" radius cutter you will need to set the base of your 
> router to cut a fillet of a thickness that is the result of the following 
> formula:
>
> Tabletop thickness (3/4") minus 1/2 hinge barrel diameter (1/8") minus cutter 
> radius (1/2")
>
> With this profile cut you can run the mating profile in the table leaf. 
> Ideally you would select a cutter with a 1/32" larger radius to provide a 
> little
> clearance at the joint. Such cutters are not generally available, so in order 
> to create the needed clearance, you will separate the leaves by this much
> when installing the hinges.
>
> The hinges can now be mortised. The first cut will be in the table top and 
> will accommodate the hinge barrel. This is best cut with a ¼" straight cutter.
> The center of this cut should be a 1/64" outboard of a line drawn down from 
> the vertical cut left by your radius cutter. With the table top upside down
> and with its leaf nesting in place but separated by 1/32", lay the hinge 
> barrel in it's mortise and with a sharp knife scribe its outline. Finally 
> route
> a mortise to set the hinge flush with the table underside and screw into 
> place. Make sure the table leaf remains firmly in place during this operation.
>
> **
> This message and its attachments may contain legally
> privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
> intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
> information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
> in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
> e-mail and delete the e-mail.
>
> Any content of this message and its attachments which
> does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
> must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
> Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
> attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
> **
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] tech support

[spiro]

Sony makes some of the best products in
VCR (okay old teck)
budget DVD or CD, though cheaper brands can be upgraded to better.
XBR or BRAViA TV types, 
for sure.
On Thu, 20 Dec 2007, Don wrote:

> It really is great too find that level of support.   Sure makes you want too 
> buy their products.  Don
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Lenny McHugh
>  To: Handyman-Blind
>  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 4:13 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tech support
>
>
>  Has anyone else received great tech support from Sony? A few years ago I had 
> some questions about a Sony product and the support was very good. I just 
> talked to a friend who was trying to help another blind individual with a 
> Sony digital recorder. Bob finally called Sony and a woman first asked the 
> model number of the product. Bob explained that both he and his friend were 
> blind and described the unit. He told where the screen was and how many 
> buttons were on the top and the side. Within a few minutes the tech located 
> the product to answer the questions. Bob was first told that he is holding 
> the unit upsidedown. She then asked Bob to hold until she got a unit. Then 
> she started operating it and had Bob do the same steps explaining what was 
> appearing on the screen. That is absolutely the best support that I ever 
> heard. Just wondering if anyone else had a similar experience.
>  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] New batteries.

[spiro]

Unless it's truly new teck,
the alkaline part will eventually wear down.
I've recharged alkaline batts, in a unit I had. It can be done. It gives 
you about 50% or original once. So there is a savings.
But with that said, after a while it would seem that only the NMH 
characteristics would remain. NO?


On Thu, 20 Dec 2007, Don wrote:

> Lenny,  I called our wall-mart,  they have them in the camera department.  
> You might check with the camera department  their are at CVS are wall greens 
> drug stores.
> I will probably be getting a set of double A and a set of triple A soon all 
> so.
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Lenny McHugh
>  To: Handyman-Blind
>  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 4:02 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New batteries.
>
>
>  Don,
>  Have you seen these batteries anywhere? I called Rayovac and they could not
>  tell me of a place to purchase in my area. They mentioned Walmart, Lowes and
>  Home Depot. I called each of these stores and they acted as if I was smoking
>  something and on full charge.
>  Lenny
>  - Original Message -
>  From: "Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>  To: "blind handy man" 
>  Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 4:12 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New batteries.
>
>  I wonder how good this type of battery is, has any one tried these bats
>  yet?
>
>  New HYBRIDT Batteries from Rayovac Deliver Best of Both Worlds
>
>  New Technology Combines Convenience of Alkaline and
>  Economic, Environmental Benefits of Rechargeable Batteries
>
>  MADISON, Wis.--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Each year, consumers spend more than $3.5
>  billion on batteries for everything from digital cameras to flashlights. But
>  despite
>  the obvious benefits of rechargeable batteries, including less environmental
>  waste and costs savings over time, less than 5% of all the batteries sold
>  in the U.S. are rechargeable. A new product from Rayovac promises to change
>  all that. HYBRIDT Batteries, featuring a breakthrough technology, deliver
>  the
>  benefits of rechargeable batteries, but eliminate common user frustrations
>  to provide the world's most user-friendly rechargeable battery to date.
>
>  Rayovac, one of the nation's top battery brands, has identified two main
>  reasons why consumers have not been purchasing rechargeable batteries at a
>  high
>  rate since their introduction to the marketplace in 1996. One, all
>  rechargeable batteries on the U.S. market today need to be charged,
>  sometimes as long
>  as a full day, prior to initial use. This makes them rather inconvenient for
>  the consumers who recognize a need to use rechargeable batteries
>  immediately,
>  right out of the package.
>
>  Two, once charged, rechargeable batteries left sitting will discharge rather
>  quickly when not in use, so they are dead when you are ready to use your
>  device.
>  Some batteries can drain in less than a month, without ever being used.
>  Consumers accustomed to purchasing the always convenient alkaline batteries
>  are
>  often turned off by their first experience with traditional rechargeable
>  products.
>
>  "Consumer frustrations with current rechargeable batteries have fueled our
>  search for new technology at Rayovac, where we have strived to launch a
>  product
>  that changes the way the world looks at rechargeable batteries" said Sean
>  Martin, vice president at Rayovac. "HYBRID rechargeable batteries combine
>  all
>  the economic and environmental benefits of rechargeables with the
>  convenience and user-friendly attributes of the more common alkaline
>  batteries."
>
>  The new HYBRID batteries from Rayovac offer many benefits over both
>  rechargeable and alkaline batteries on the market today. HYBRID batteries
>  come charged
>  and ready to use, which allows consumers to use them upon purchase. This is
>  not the case with any other rechargeable battery on the U.S. market, which
>  often need to be charged for several hours before use. The new batteries
>  from Rayovac also self-discharge at a much slower rate, which means they
>  stay
>  charged for up to one year after charge.
>
>  The HYBRID batteries are also user-friendly because they work in all NiMH
>  chargers and are suitable for use in any device.
>
>  The most important benefits, perhaps, are the performance and endurance
>  characteristics of the HYBRID batteries. The new batteries hold their charge
>  up
>  to four times longer than conventional rechargeables when not in use and
>  last three times longer than alkaline in high drain devices like digital
>  cameras.
>
>  In addition, the HYBRID batteries make overall economic and environmental
>  sense. It is estimated that one HYBRID battery can replace up to 1,500
>  alkaline
>  batteries, giving consumers the ability to save thousands of dollars and
>  keeping unnecessary waste out of landfills.
>
>  The HYBRID batteries from Rayovac are available at major mass, drug and
>  department stores. Consumers can learn more about HYBRID batteries at
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] tech support

[spiro]

I've always found the folks at
1800 222 sony
to be as helpful as possible.
Sony bought the Minolta camera company.
My camera died within a day of waranty.
I was told that if Sony thought it was a good investment that they would 
gladly support the products of a company they buy; but if it were just a 
write-off they would replace with a slightly lesser product.
Short of it, I got what in all examinations was a shiney and slippery new 
camera. So maybe it was cheaper than doing a repair to the rewinder 
mechanism, and door latch (that had to be popped when it wouldn't open.)


On Thu, 20 Dec 2007, Lenny  McHugh wrote:

> Has anyone else received great tech support from Sony? A few years ago I had 
> some questions about a Sony product and the support was very good. I just 
> talked to a friend who was trying to help another blind individual with a 
> Sony digital recorder. Bob finally called Sony and a woman first asked the 
> model number of the product. Bob explained that both he and his friend were 
> blind and described the unit. He told where the screen was and how many 
> buttons were on the top and the side. Within a few minutes the tech located 
> the product to answer the questions. Bob was first told that he is holding 
> the unit upsidedown. She then asked Bob to hold until she got a unit. Then 
> she started operating it and had Bob do the same steps explaining what was 
> appearing on the screen. That is absolutely the best support that I ever 
> heard. Just wondering if anyone else had a similar experience.
> Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage

[Larry Stansifer]

Sounds good my man...
I have some scrap 3/4" aluminum square bar stock laying around somewhere.
I'm thinking I could drill it tap one side and a nurreled fastener to hold
it together at the pivot. I might even drill and tap holes in the free ends
of my basic gage to assist with compounds or offsets. It is going in Carol's
nephew's k5 blazer so there isn't a lot of really tight work. The bad news
is, the kid never heard of "prior planning prevents piss poor performance."
He had the damn thing about 80% finished when the roll-bar penny dropped for
him. The rule is I don't even touch it until the interior, electrics and
fuel systems are all out of the vehicle. He had  all of the inside body
panels coated with ryno-liner which will make it just that much more fun.
The only reason I am even considering this Charlie Foxtrot is because the
kid is one hell of an artist and photographer and I want a portfolio of my
work done.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 2:04 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage


Ah.  Now I see where you are heading...  I have a small tool I bought at
Lowes and a large one I made myself.  

The tool at Lowes is called a bevel scale.  Basically it is a thin piece of
metal with a slot in it.  There is a handle made of wood or plastic that the
metal piece fits in.  When it is stored everything is tucked in the handle
except for about 2 inches or so.  There is a knurled knob that tightens to
hold the angle.  To find the angle you loosen the knob, pull the metal piece
out of the handle and the handle becomes 1 side of the angle and the metal
piece can be moved around until you have the other side of the angle.  Just
tighten the knob and it will give you the angle you just set and you can
carry the tool to the bench or where ever you need it.  

Seeing as you are going to use this on something pretty large, you can make
your own to do the same thing but the larger size will make sure you can
account for the span as far across the roof as you want.  

I took 2 pieces of Plexiglas and actually cut them on the table saw so they
were about 2 inches wide.  You could probably talk the folks at the orange
or blue boxes out of a couple pieces of scraps...  Lay the 2 pieces on top
of each other and drill a hole through 1 end of both pieces about an inch or
2 from the ends.  Take a machine screw, number 10 or larger just so it won't
work its way through the Plexiglas and crack it.  Put a washer, I used
fender washers because of the width.  Put 1 on each side and 1 between the 2
legs of Plexiglas.  Use a wing nut to tighten the screw and  now you have a
large model bevel scale.  You can hold 1 leg vertically and the other can
run across the roof line to get your outside angles.  once you get that part
done you can lay the tubes on the floor and find the cross member angles.  

They have tools available to cut the fish mouth in the ends of the round
tubes so the tube will fit nice and tight against the sides.  

If it doesn't work for you at least you're only out about 2 dollars...  The
tool from Lowes sells for around 10.  I know there are some other models out
there but the ones I've actually seen won't help you with what you are doing
because they are pretty small in size and you could be off by several
degrees in the end.  That will cause much preaching and carrying on when you
start to weld.  And now you have the reason for that mig welder!
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 10:34 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage


  I have a chop saw what I am looking for is something that I can use to
  measure the angles inside the body shell and transfer those measurements
to
  my saw or tubing bender. I have a couple of ideas and will probably see
what
  I can't mouse together.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 7:13 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage

  How are you planning to cut the tubing? I took a power miter saw and put
an
  abrasive blade in it that will cut through steel. I can get the most
common
  angles just like in wood. As for a tool that is accessible for one of us
to
  read, I still haven't found one and I've been looking for a while. For
that
  matter I haven't found one for anyone that I can adapt. I know there are a
  bunch on line but unless I grab hold of them I'm not interested because
  anyone can write an ad that makes it sound like it will do anything and
even
  wash the dishes after the party. But they never work that well...

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, Dec

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Foam Insulation sheets

[spiro]

sounds like a break for running fluids, combustables.

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007, Brice Mijares wrote:

> What's the logic for the drop?  Also, please explain what concrete rise
> means, and what it accomplishes.
> .
> - Original Message -
> From: "David W Wood" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 12:44 PM
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Foam Insulation sheets
>
>
>> Here in the U.K. if there is a connecting door between the dwelling and
>> garage, the garage floor must be 4 inches lower than the dwelling floor,
>> and
>> with a concrete rise between the two.
>>
>> David
>>
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> On Behalf Of Victor Gouveia
>> Sent: 17 December 2007 18:46
>> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Foam Insulation sheets
>>
>> Hi Shane,
>>
>> As was already stated, some garages are connected to the house, with a
>> door
>> leading from the house directly into the garage.
>>
>> In most cases, one might want to provide as much insulation from the cold
>> as
>>
>> possible in order to avoid any drafts that may be present from the garage
>> to
>>
>> the house interior.
>>
>> In some cases, the garage may be heated along with the rest of the house,
>> so
>>
>> to have air coming in through the garage door, just makes for a cash cow.
>>
>> Another item you may want to consider, is that the more heat you can draw
>> out of the garage, the better it is for the car, and allowing for easier
>> starts in the winter.
>>
>> I just watched a movie called The Day After Tomorrow, where North America
>> was subjected to a flash freeze, which rendered a helicopter to freeze as
>> soon as it hit.
>>
>> The motor on the copter froze solid, and the thing started to spin instead
>> of the actual blades.
>>
>> While I'm not saying this will happen to a car anytime soon, in places
>> like
>> Alaska and Northern Canada, temperatures can go down quite substantially,
>> and then it becomes quite difficult to start a car in those conditions.
>>
>> Suffice it to say, the more protection you place on your car from
>> environmental influences, the better it is for the car.
>>
>> Victor
>>
>>
>>
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>> or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>> List Members At The Following address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>>
>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>
>> If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the
>> following
>> address for more information:
>> http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com
>>
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>> list
>> just send a blank message to:
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1188 - Release Date:
>> 17/12/2007
>> 14:13
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this outgoing message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1188 - Release Date:
>> 17/12/2007
>> 14:13
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>> or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>> List Members At The Following address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>>
>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>
>> If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the
>> following address for more information:
>> http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com
>>
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>> list just send a blank message to:
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the fo

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Foam Insulation sheets

[spiro]

Hi,
slightly tangential:
I've seen these and other insulation boards at HD and am now wondering 
which is a better insulator. My garage ceiling needs a layer.
I'm sure, though a little more fragile, these are lighter than that hard 
sort of carbboard sanwich stuff.
Anyone know the comparative values?
This could be the answer for me.
Thanks


On Wed, 12 Dec 2007, Bob Kennedy wrote:

> Just for the heck of it, did you have the static cling problem?  I cured that 
> by wetting it when I work with styrofoam.
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Larry Stansifer
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 6:34 PM
>  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Foam Insulation sheets
>
>
>  I got half of the door done today and I simply used the lock blade on a
>  girber multi-tool and it worked beautifully. I will need to take a steel to
>  it before I finish but other than that it worked well.
>  A couple of tips for anybody considering this job
>  1. The manufacturer inserted small blocks of Styrofoam in the corners of
>  some of the panels. My guess would be for vibration abatement, you want to
>  remove these so you will have a square end to work from.
>  The other thing is there are self tapping fasteners that secure the roller
>  hinge assembly to the various door panels. You will want to back these off
>  before you attempt to insert the sheet of insulation. I carved a couple of
>  pretty nasty grooves in the first Styrofoam sheet before the penny dropped
>  for me and I decided to back the damn bolts out.
>  As the cartoon character says Dates all folks.
>
>  -Original Message-
>  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
>  Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 4:16 PM
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Foam Insulation sheets
>
>  strangely enough they are called mini hack saws. Larry being a Snap-on kind
>  of guy will have a hack saw that lets you turn the blade 90 degrees and lock
>  it down again. The ends on a Snap-on saw are rectangular shaped and you can
>  turn them 90 degrees at a time on each end until you complete 360 degrees.
>  That way the frame won't be in the way.
>  - Original Message -
>  From: robert moore
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 12:14 PM
>  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Foam Insulation sheets
>
>  If you go with a hack saw blade I would get one of those handles that you
>  put the hack saw blade in and it makes it kind of like a knife The blade
>  sticks out the front so you can make a long cut without the frame of a
>  standard hack saw getting in the way. Not sure what you call these. Have
>  only seen one or two in my life but I am sure that you could get them at
>  just about any place that caries tools.
>
>  -Original Message-
>  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>  Behalf Of Michael Baldwin
>  Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 9:31 AM
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Foam Insulation sheets
>
>  Hacks saw blades work very well.
>  Michael
>
>  _
>
>  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  
>  [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>   ]
>  On Behalf Of Larry Stansifer
>  Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 05:48
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Foam Insulation sheets
>
>  Ok guys...
>  My mom has been complaining about not having an insolated garage door. It
>  is
>  one of those metal doors that is made up of a series of metal panels. The
>  inside edges are double broken to a depth of 1&1/4". The inside dimensions
>  of these panels is 41&5/8" long and 18&5/8" high. Although the package of
>  insulation panels proclaims "fits all standard garage doors." I know I
>  will
>  need to do some trimming and fitting. I have a square and a straight edge
>  so
>  I am not to concerned about getting it straight and even. My question is,
>  what the hell do I cut this stuff with? Everything I own except for a
>  couple
>  of really good pocket knives and my new PC Circ saw is designed for
>  cutting
>  metal.
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>  or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
>  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
>  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>  List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
>  Visit the archives page at the following addres

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage

[John Schwery]

You might be able to use a t square for this job.  When I was 
building a hand rail, I clamped wood in place, got the angles with my 
t square and transferred those angles to my table saw.

earlier, Larry Stansifer, wrote:

>I have a chop saw what I am looking for is something that I can use to
>measure the angles inside the body shell and transfer those measurements to
>my saw or tubing bender. I have a couple of ideas and will probably see what
>I can't mouse together.
>
>-Original Message-
>From: 
>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
>Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 7:13 PM
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage
>
>How are you planning to cut the tubing? I took a power miter saw and put an
>abrasive blade in it that will cut through steel. I can get the most common
>angles just like in wood. As for a tool that is accessible for one of us to
>read, I still haven't found one and I've been looking for a while. For that
>matter I haven't found one for anyone that I can adapt. I know there are a
>bunch on line but unless I grab hold of them I'm not interested because
>anyone can write an ad that makes it sound like it will do anything and even
>wash the dishes after the party. But they never work that well...
>
>- Original Message -
>From: Larry Stansifer
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 8:23 PM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage
>
>Hi guys,
>
>I am needing to measure a number of fairly precise angles plus or minus 5
>degrees. Are you aware of any off the shelf measuring devices that will
>handle this task? I am laying out a scratch built roll-cage and 2.5" 4130
>chrome-mahley tubing doesn't bend particularly well so it is going to have
>to be precisely cut and fit for the most part.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>To listen to the show archives go to link 
>http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>or 
>ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
>The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
>Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>List Members At The Following address: 
>http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
>Visit the archives page at the following address
>http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> 
>
>
>If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the following
>address for more information:
>http://jaws-users.com/mailman/listinfo/blind-computing_jaws-users.com
>
>For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
>just send a blank message to: 
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>--
>BEGIN-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS
>--
>
>Teach InfoWest Spam Trap if this mail (ID 146162501) is spam:
>Spam:
>https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=146162501&m=8b0414c06a72&c=s
>Not spam:
>https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=146162501&m=8b0414c06a72&c=n
>Forget vote:
>https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=146162501&m=8b0414c06a72&c=f
>--
>END-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS
>
>
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1190 - Release Date: 
>12/19/2007 7:37 PM

John

  --



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1190 - Release Date: 12/19/2007 
7:37 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps

[Bob Kennedy]

Absolutely not.  There is already a clog and the grounds will just collect at 
the clog and make things worse.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 10:41 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home remedies-sewer traps


  Wouldn't Coffee grounds be worth a try also?

  Victor Gouveia


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage

[Bob Kennedy]

Ah.  Now I see where you are heading...  I have a small tool I bought at Lowes 
and a large one I made myself.  

The tool at Lowes is called a bevel scale.  Basically it is a thin piece of 
metal with a slot in it.  There is a handle made of wood or plastic that the 
metal piece fits in.  When it is stored everything is tucked in the handle 
except for about 2 inches or so.  There is a knurled knob that tightens to hold 
the angle.  To find the angle you loosen the knob, pull the metal piece out of 
the handle and the handle becomes 1 side of the angle and the metal piece can 
be moved around until you have the other side of the angle.  Just tighten the 
knob and it will give you the angle you just set and you can carry the tool to 
the bench or where ever you need it.  

Seeing as you are going to use this on something pretty large, you can make 
your own to do the same thing but the larger size will make sure you can 
account for the span as far across the roof as you want.  

I took 2 pieces of Plexiglas and actually cut them on the table saw so they 
were about 2 inches wide.  You could probably talk the folks at the orange or 
blue boxes out of a couple pieces of scraps...  Lay the 2 pieces on top of each 
other and drill a hole through 1 end of both pieces about an inch or 2 from the 
ends.  Take a machine screw, number 10 or larger just so it won't work its way 
through the Plexiglas and crack it.  Put a washer, I used fender washers 
because of the width.  Put 1 on each side and 1 between the 2 legs of 
Plexiglas.  Use a wing nut to tighten the screw and  now you have a large model 
bevel scale.  You can hold 1 leg vertically and the other can run across the 
roof line to get your outside angles.  once you get that part done you can lay 
the tubes on the floor and find the cross member angles.  

They have tools available to cut the fish mouth in the ends of the round tubes 
so the tube will fit nice and tight against the sides.  

If it doesn't work for you at least you're only out about 2 dollars...  The 
tool from Lowes sells for around 10.  I know there are some other models out 
there but the ones I've actually seen won't help you with what you are doing 
because they are pretty small in size and you could be off by several degrees 
in the end.  That will cause much preaching and carrying on when you start to 
weld.  And now you have the reason for that mig welder!
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 10:34 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage


  I have a chop saw what I am looking for is something that I can use to
  measure the angles inside the body shell and transfer those measurements to
  my saw or tubing bender. I have a couple of ideas and will probably see what
  I can't mouse together.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 7:13 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage

  How are you planning to cut the tubing? I took a power miter saw and put an
  abrasive blade in it that will cut through steel. I can get the most common
  angles just like in wood. As for a tool that is accessible for one of us to
  read, I still haven't found one and I've been looking for a while. For that
  matter I haven't found one for anyone that I can adapt. I know there are a
  bunch on line but unless I grab hold of them I'm not interested because
  anyone can write an ad that makes it sound like it will do anything and even
  wash the dishes after the party. But they never work that well...

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 8:23 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible angle gage

  Hi guys,

  I am needing to measure a number of fairly precise angles plus or minus 5
  degrees. Are you aware of any off the shelf measuring devices that will
  handle this task? I am laying out a scratch built roll-cage and 2.5" 4130
  chrome-mahley tubing doesn't bend particularly well so it is going to have
  to be precisely cut and fit for the most part.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ 

  If you would like to join the Blind Computing list, then visit the follo