Re: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting

[Scott Howell]

The one thing we were lucky to get with our kitchen is the lazy susan.  
The reason why we have had no real problems with things getting stuck  
is the curved back inside the unit that seems to keep things from  
hanging it up. Now of course most cases the reason stuff gets stuck in  
there is do to the fact folks go spinning the thing around really fast  
when they initially open the door.
Scott Howell
s.how...@verizon.net



On Jan 10, 2009, at 6:01 PM, Mycell Armington wrote:

> Hi Betsy,
> My opinion on lazy Susan's are their not worth it. A novelty yes and  
> something unique but what if something falls off at the back of the  
> turn, and gets stuck or wedged. you can't reach it or even figure  
> out what it is. It's not even a sighted verses blind thing, if it's  
> stuck it's stuck. I've had them and would not want them again.  
> That's my story and I'm sticking to it!. You asked I told.
>
> As far as the vinyl I would mark out where cabinets are going to be  
> and place the final down first not covering the part of the floor  
> that's going to be covered by cabinet because once the cabinet is  
> set in the weight of the cabinet will make permanent impressions in  
> any vinyl flooring and I certainly wouldn't want to waist my money  
> on flooring that will never be seen yet damaged.
>
> How's the weather there wonderful!! I'm jealous. Good luck on your  
> project. Hope this helps.
>
> Warm regards,
>
> Mycell
>
> - Original Message -
> From: Betsy Whitney
> To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 5:25 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting
>
> Aloha everyone,
> It's time to replace the counters in our kitchen and we have been
> advised that since our cabinets are 30 years old and were not the
> best quality to begin with, that we really need to replace the
> cabinets also. We were planning to install vinyl in the kitchen to
> match the vinyl that we put in the entry way and in part of my
> office, but now they are suggesting that since we are going to
> replace the cabinets, that we should wait until the cabinets have
> been removed, then install the vinyl and then put the cabinets on top
> of the vinyl. Is that usual?
>
> I am wanting thoughts and ideas about this project. Do any of you
> have items in your kitchens that you really like or dislike? I was
> looking at some lazy-susan units that look like they would be very
> helpful, but I just don't know how well they hold up and if they are
> truly sturdy. Besides suggesting that I move out until the job is
> done, I welcome any and all suggestions. Perhaps I can get my husband
> to take a vacation while the work is being done. That would really be
> of great help,...grin.
> Thanks, Betsy
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> --
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.5/1885 - Release Date:  
> 1/9/2009 7:59 PM
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Spray Mobile Unit Completed.

[Lee A. Stone]

Congratulations Ray  on a job well done. Now, at any time you can 
modify or adapt as you wish your new unit which indeed makes you 
mobile. consider a patent and again congratulations. Lee



On Sun, Jan 11, 
2009 at 09:03:13AM +1100, Ray Boyce wrote:
> Hi Lee
> 
> I have just finished my mobile spray unit trolley.
> 
> I made it out of a golf buggy trolley with some modifications.
> 
> I first had to get the support for the mixing chamber  standing vertical
> instead of at about sixty degrees.
> 
> So I made some brackets and secured it in that position. 
> 
> I then had to pack up the height to fit a half round support at the top. 
> 
> I used some small gauge steel channel and screwed it to the frame.
> 
> I then secured the unit with a tie down at the bottom.
> 
> Now I had to find a handle for search as I might I could not find it.
> 
> But I found a piece of tubing the exact inside measurement so I cut this off
> to length and it worked out really good.
> 
> For the handle had to fit into a hole and then be clamped up using a screw
> handle.
> 
> Well now I have a spray unit on wheels which can go over any rough ground
> and the balance is just right.
> 
> Even the wife if she so desires can fill the unit and wheel it around with
> no problems.
> 
> Another job completed by this blind handy man.
> 
> Ray  
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 

-- 
You see but you do not observe.
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, in "The Memoirs of Sherlock Holmes"
Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net

Re: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting

[Lee A. Stone]

Betsey,  as to the " Lazy susans". well we have  four such devices   
in this kitchen and  I think they are a great space saver. these units 
were installed   in  1979 and are in good shape.  I might have suggested 
a  bit highr  lip on the edges but  other than that  I think they are 
worth the money. . Yes I'd like new counter tops as well but  it is  not 
in my  plans as  of now.. You could always fly to the Northeast  Betsey 
where the snow is  drifting down and the snow plows are trying to keep 
up.. Lee


 On 
Sat, Jan 
10, 2009 at 
12:25:08PM -1000, Betsy Whitney wrote:
> Aloha everyone,
> It's time to replace the counters in our kitchen and we have been 
> advised that since our cabinets are 30 years old and were not the 
> best quality to begin with, that we really need to replace the 
> cabinets also. We were planning to install vinyl in the kitchen to 
> match the vinyl that we put in the entry way and in part of my 
> office, but now they are suggesting that since we are going to 
> replace the cabinets, that we should wait until the cabinets have 
> been removed, then install the vinyl and then put the cabinets on top 
> of the vinyl. Is that usual?
> 
> I am wanting thoughts and ideas about this project. Do any of you 
> have items in your kitchens that you really like or dislike? I was 
> looking at some lazy-susan units that look like they would be very 
> helpful, but I just don't know how well they hold up and if they are 
> truly sturdy. Besides suggesting that I move out until the job is 
> done, I welcome any and all suggestions. Perhaps I can get my husband 
> to take a vacation while the work is being done. That would really be 
> of great help,...grin.
> Thanks, Betsy
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 

-- 
You see but you do not observe.
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, in "The Memoirs of Sherlock Holmes"
Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net

Re: [BlindHandyMan] routers (fwd)

[john schwery]

I have a Freud, fixed based router that does a 
good job.  It uses 1 wrench to change bits.
Earlier, Lenny McHugh, wrote:

>I have the Ryobi 2hp plunge model l ZRRE180PL
>It had some great reviews and I purchased it for $99 on sale at Home Depot a
>few years ago. You may still find some and I saw some factory recon units
>for $99. Here is a review:
>Expert Rating: 5 (what's this?)
>
>Expert Review
>
>Ryobi RE180PL 2.0 HP Variable-Speed Plunge Router
>
>Compare Prices
>Date Published: 2/4/08
>
>The Ryobi RE180PL seems to be an excellent product with good, desirable
>features at a price quite below professional-grade counterparts.
>
>It appeared to perform nicely cutting oak. The unit's electronic control is
>said to maintain constant speed--variable between 15,000 and 23,000
>rpm--under load. The manner for varying the unit's speed is obvious and easy
>to do via a dial on the face of the tool.
>
>The lever for unlocking/locking the depth adjustment is well placed and easy
>to manipulate in operation, while an "Accu-Stop" micro-adjustable depth stop
>allows adjustment in increments of 1/64 inches. Hence, it would seem even a
>novice could use this tool to easily do routing of a general nature or more
>elaborate plunge routing--given the user takes the time to read--and
>understand--the manual and how to set the tool for the depth of cut desired.
>
>Sound output is average. Although the tool's on/off rocker switch is not on
>the handle--as Consumer Guide prefers--it is within thumb-reach of the right
>handle. The view of the work surface is wide open. The tool includes a
>spindle lock--a feature highly preferred by Consumer Guide--so only one
>wrench is needed to insert/remove bits.
>
>The unit comes with a 1/2-inch collet and includes a 1/4-inch adapter. The
>unit's design does not include a mechanism for chip/dust extraction, nor
>does it come with a carrying case. Cord length is 10 feet.
>
>The handgrips on the Ryobi RE180PL are shaped for good grasp, but they lack
>"grippy" material that helps improve grasp.
>
>Warranty
>2 years (limited)
>
>Source:
>http://products.howstuffworks.com/ryobi-re180pl-20-hp-variable-speed-plunge-router-review.htm
>
>Expert Rating Scale
>
>Value
>Is it appropriately priced?
>Performance
>How well does it work?
>Ease of Use
>How easy is it to operate?
>Features
>What's included?
>Overall
>What does Consumer Guide® think?
>
>- Original Message -
>From: "Spiro" <sp...@iamspiro.com>
>To: <blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 9:51 PM
>Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] routers (fwd)
>
>Hi folks,
>It turns out that I had a
>skill" 8.5 amp 25k rpm plunge router.
>I am borrowing a 6.5 craftsman 25krpm non-plunging router.
>Seems like Harbor freight has a $59 router on their web site. Am I wrong
>in thinking this will be less than the $99 skill router I bought 10 years
>ago?
>Relativity if you may.
>I was under the impression that $150 was about the safety line of price?
>Anyone know of Harbor Freight's routers?
>At $59, if that's possible, I'd not get mine fixed.
>But if the tag is really going to be $150 or more for a 9 amp or better,
>plunge router, I will pay for the repairs.
>Advice further? Thanks
>
>
>
>Send any questions regarding list management to:
>blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>To listen to the show archives go to link
>http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>Or
>ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
>The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
>Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>List Members At The Following address:
>http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
>Visit the archives page at the following address
>http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
>If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
>address for more information:
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> 
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>
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>http://www

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen Remodel and Kitchen Aid cabinet

[Dale Leavens]

Good morning Betsy,

My sister had a device in one of her kitchens which sounds something like what 
you want. It was a platform, in this case probably 16 by 12 inches mounted on a 
series of levers and springs not unlike those you might see for supporting a 
computer keyboard under a work surface. You open the cupboard door and this 
thing swings out and up on the levers and counterbalancing springs until it 
came up level with the counter top. I suppose it would serve the purpose you 
had in mind. This device was in her kitchen and she never liked it because it 
used up the entire cupboard cavity and she didn't have the sort of device she 
would want to put there.

At the time it never occurred to me that it might serve home for a big mixer, I 
never tested it to determine if it might carry anything that heavy.

One concern I would have is that door has to remain open while the platform is 
in use. I am pretty sure I would forget it being there and do myself an injury.

Keeping something like a big mixer off of the surface when not in use though 
would be appealing, one only uses such a machine only occasionally, Few of us 
would use it even daily.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney 
  To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 1:14 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen Remodel and Kitchen Aid cabinet


  Aloha All,
  I hear tell that there is a cabinet designed to hold a kitchenaid 
  stand mixer. From what I can tell, it has some sort of a shelf in a 
  pull-out cupboard and the shelf is on a spring that lifts the mixer 
  up when pull open. I would love to get the mixer off of my counter, 
  but wonder if anyone has one of these or has seen one. The mixer 
  weighs about thirty pounds so I don't like having to move it around 
  to clean. Thanks, Betsy

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen Remodel and Kitchen Aid cabinet

[Mike Rusk]

It comes to my mind that what a person needs, if they have the space, is a 
rotating work station simmilar to those for tools.  You could mount things like 
mixers and other appliances to it and rotate them when the need arises and 
maybe even have one of the surfaces free to use as an additional counter top.
I suppose one would have to design it since I don't know how many appliances 
allow for mounting in this fashion, but its worth a thought.
Another thought might be something like the contraption that they use for 
sewing machines, where you raise the machine up when you want to use it and 
turn it down whenits not in use thus giving you the flat surface for other uses.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 9:16 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen Remodel and Kitchen Aid cabinet


  Good morning Betsy,

  My sister had a device in one of her kitchens which sounds something like 
what you want. It was a platform, in this case probably 16 by 12 inches mounted 
on a series of levers and springs not unlike those you might see for supporting 
a computer keyboard under a work surface. You open the cupboard door and this 
thing swings out and up on the levers and counterbalancing springs until it 
came up level with the counter top. I suppose it would serve the purpose you 
had in mind. This device was in her kitchen and she never liked it because it 
used up the entire cupboard cavity and she didn't have the sort of device she 
would want to put there.

  At the time it never occurred to me that it might serve home for a big mixer, 
I never tested it to determine if it might carry anything that heavy.

  One concern I would have is that door has to remain open while the platform 
is in use. I am pretty sure I would forget it being there and do myself an 
injury.

  Keeping something like a big mixer off of the surface when not in use though 
would be appealing, one only uses such a machine only occasionally, Few of us 
would use it even daily.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney 
  To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 1:14 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen Remodel and Kitchen Aid cabinet

  Aloha All,
  I hear tell that there is a cabinet designed to hold a kitchenaid 
  stand mixer. From what I can tell, it has some sort of a shelf in a 
  pull-out cupboard and the shelf is on a spring that lifts the mixer 
  up when pull open. I would love to get the mixer off of my counter, 
  but wonder if anyone has one of these or has seen one. The mixer 
  weighs about thirty pounds so I don't like having to move it around 
  to clean. Thanks, Betsy

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] routers (fwd)

[Terry Klarich]

I believe Frued to be up there with Porter Cable.  I also like their saw blades.

Terry
On Sun, 11 Jan 2009 09:11:30 -0500you write:
>
>
>I have a Freud, fixed based router that does a=20
>good job.  It uses 1 wrench to change bits.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting

[Dan Rossi]

Betsy,

OOPS, you responded to Mycell on list.  *GRIN*.

anyway, the newer lazy susans, like others have said, have a board 
wrapping around the trays so it is difficult for stuff to fall off. 
Although, the 3/4 circular shape does make it inconvenient for anything of 
any size to fit in the thing.

Never-the-less, Teresa and I are looking at such devices for our fantasy 
kitchen remodel.  We are also very interested in the design that Dale 
Mentioned where shelves slide out as the door opens.  I haven't actually 
gotten my hands on one of these to see how well they work, but I have 
heard of them.  I always worry a bit about lots of mechanicals though. 
Just more stuff to break, or tracks to be jumped.

The kitchenAide cabinet you mentioned is a pretty slick device.  A good 
friend of mine has exactly this in her kitchen.  You open the door, then 
pull the shelf forward.  As you pull it forward, it swings up and then 
locks in place at counter height.  Hitting the open door isn't that much 
of a concern because there is the shelf already there.  You would have to 
be walking through the shelf to hit the door.  Well, not completely true, 
but I believe my friends cabinet door opens completely against the 
cabinets next to it so the door is mostly out of the way.  She uses her 
KitchenAide quite a lot.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel:(412) 268-9081

[BlindHandyMan] Porter-Cable 893PK Fixed Base & Plunge Base Router Kit - Reviews of Woodworking Tools

[Lenny McHugh]

Looking around I found this site. It has the review of the porter cable 
router and links to reviews of dewalt, craftsman, rigid and a few others. I 
found it to be an interesting read.
http://woodworking.about.com/od/recommendations/gr/PorterCable893.htm 




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Or
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen Remodel and Kitchen Aid cabinet

[Betsy Whitney]

Oh, what a great idea, if only I had the room. This kitchen is in the 
middle of my house, and when they designed it, I wasn't around then, 
they made it so that it is very open and has big arch ways going from 
the entry-way into the kitchen and also going from the kitchen into 
the livingroom.

I'd love to have an island in the middle of the kitchen, but changing 
all that plumbing and electrical would surely make me crazy. We are 
on a cement slab, and of course, the pipes are in the slab, grumble...
At 05:37 AM 1/11/2009, you wrote:

>It comes to my mind that what a person needs, if they have the 
>space, is a rotating work station simmilar to those for tools. You 
>could mount things like mixers and other appliances to it and rotate 
>them when the need arises and maybe even have one of the surfaces 
>free to use as an additional counter top.
>I suppose one would have to design it since I don't know how many 
>appliances allow for mounting in this fashion, but its worth a thought.
>Another thought might be something like the contraption that they 
>use for sewing machines, where you raise the machine up when you 
>want to use it and turn it down whenits not in use thus giving you 
>the flat surface for other uses.
>
>- Original Message -
>From: Dale Leavens
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 9:16 AM
>Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen Remodel and Kitchen Aid cabinet
>
>Good morning Betsy,
>
>My sister had a device in one of her kitchens which sounds something 
>like what you want. It was a platform, in this case probably 16 by 
>12 inches mounted on a series of levers and springs not unlike those 
>you might see for supporting a computer keyboard under a work 
>surface. You open the cupboard door and this thing swings out and up 
>on the levers and counterbalancing springs until it came up level 
>with the counter top. I suppose it would serve the purpose you had 
>in mind. This device was in her kitchen and she never liked it 
>because it used up the entire cupboard cavity and she didn't have 
>the sort of device she would want to put there.
>
>At the time it never occurred to me that it might serve home for a 
>big mixer, I never tested it to determine if it might carry anything 
>that heavy.
>
>One concern I would have is that door has to remain open while the 
>platform is in use. I am pretty sure I would forget it being there 
>and do myself an injury.
>
>Keeping something like a big mixer off of the surface when not in 
>use though would be appealing, one only uses such a machine only 
>occasionally, Few of us would use it even daily.
>
>- Original Message -
>From: Betsy Whitney
>To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 1:14 AM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen Remodel and Kitchen Aid cabinet
>
>Aloha All,
>I hear tell that there is a cabinet designed to hold a kitchenaid
>stand mixer. From what I can tell, it has some sort of a shelf in a
>pull-out cupboard and the shelf is on a spring that lifts the mixer
>up when pull open. I would love to get the mixer off of my counter,
>but wonder if anyone has one of these or has seen one. The mixer
>weighs about thirty pounds so I don't like having to move it around
>to clean. Thanks, Betsy
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Other Ideas for the Oven?

[Claudia]

Hi,

My oven still lets off a burnt odor, and I don't know how to get it out.

I'll scrape at whatever is left there again, a little later on.

How does the Easy Off work?

Thanks.

Claudia

Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while 
the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
our-safe-haven-subscr...@googlegroups.com
makinghouseworkeasier-subscr...@googlegroups.com

[BlindHandyMan] TV Ears?

[Claudia]

Hi,

Does anyone know what TV Ears are?  They're a system used to transmit the 
signal from the television, to a listener, via headphones, so others will 
not be disturbed by the noise.
I recently purchased a unit for my fiance, and he is wondering if it'll 
work, with his talking book machine!  I'm thinking not because I thought 
this unit needs to be connected to the A V jacks, on the television set?
Please let me know!



Claudia

Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while 
the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
our-safe-haven-subscr...@googlegroups.com
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] TV Ears?

[cheetah]

sure it will
just get a cord with the  female jacks at one end and an earphone jack at the 
other.
take it to radio schlock and they should have the right cord.

Jim


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Other Ideas for the Oven?

[Trouble]

you just spray it on and let it sit over night and some sit up in a 
few hours. then you just wipe it out with a damp sponge. it will take 
the worst of things out and leave oven smelling fresh. Just remember 
not to turn on the oven until wiped out or it will go bang!\
I use that stuff all the time on these apartment style ovens.

At 05:38 PM 1/11/2009, you wrote:

>Hi,
>
>My oven still lets off a burnt odor, and I don't know how to get it out.
>
>I'll scrape at whatever is left there again, a little later on.
>
>How does the Easy Off work?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Claudia
>
>Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while
>the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
>our-safe-haven-subscr...@googlegroups.com
>makinghouseworkeasier-subscr...@googlegroups.com
>
>

Tim
trouble
Verizon FIOS support tech
"Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance."
--Sam Brown

Blindeudora list owner.
To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora   

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen Remodel and Kitchen Aid cabinet

[Trouble]

How about a moveable work island. you can move them anywhere and have 
the space you need to work on where you need it.

At 04:20 PM 1/11/2009, you wrote:

>Oh, what a great idea, if only I had the room. This kitchen is in the
>middle of my house, and when they designed it, I wasn't around then,
>they made it so that it is very open and has big arch ways going from
>the entry-way into the kitchen and also going from the kitchen into
>the livingroom.
>
>I'd love to have an island in the middle of the kitchen, but changing
>all that plumbing and electrical would surely make me crazy. We are
>on a cement slab, and of course, the pipes are in the slab, grumble...
>At 05:37 AM 1/11/2009, you wrote:
>
> >It comes to my mind that what a person needs, if they have the
> >space, is a rotating work station simmilar to those for tools. You
> >could mount things like mixers and other appliances to it and rotate
> >them when the need arises and maybe even have one of the surfaces
> >free to use as an additional counter top.
> >I suppose one would have to design it since I don't know how many
> >appliances allow for mounting in this fashion, but its worth a thought.
> >Another thought might be something like the contraption that they
> >use for sewing machines, where you raise the machine up when you
> >want to use it and turn it down whenits not in use thus giving you
> >the flat surface for other uses.
> >
> >- Original Message -
> >From: Dale Leavens
> >To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> >Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 9:16 AM
> >Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen Remodel and Kitchen Aid cabinet
> >
> >Good morning Betsy,
> >
> >My sister had a device in one of her kitchens which sounds something
> >like what you want. It was a platform, in this case probably 16 by
> >12 inches mounted on a series of levers and springs not unlike those
> >you might see for supporting a computer keyboard under a work
> >surface. You open the cupboard door and this thing swings out and up
> >on the levers and counterbalancing springs until it came up level
> >with the counter top. I suppose it would serve the purpose you had
> >in mind. This device was in her kitchen and she never liked it
> >because it used up the entire cupboard cavity and she didn't have
> >the sort of device she would want to put there.
> >
> >At the time it never occurred to me that it might serve home for a
> >big mixer, I never tested it to determine if it might carry anything
> >that heavy.
> >
> >One concern I would have is that door has to remain open while the
> >platform is in use. I am pretty sure I would forget it being there
> >and do myself an injury.
> >
> >Keeping something like a big mixer off of the surface when not in
> >use though would be appealing, one only uses such a machine only
> >occasionally, Few of us would use it even daily.
> >
> >- Original Message -
> >From: Betsy Whitney
> >To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
> >Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 1:14 AM
> >Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen Remodel and Kitchen Aid cabinet
> >
> >Aloha All,
> >I hear tell that there is a cabinet designed to hold a kitchenaid
> >stand mixer. From what I can tell, it has some sort of a shelf in a
> >pull-out cupboard and the shelf is on a spring that lifts the mixer
> >up when pull open. I would love to get the mixer off of my counter,
> >but wonder if anyone has one of these or has seen one. The mixer
> >weighs about thirty pounds so I don't like having to move it around
> >to clean. Thanks, Betsy
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Tim
trouble
Verizon FIOS support tech
"Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance."
--Sam Brown

Blindeudora list owner.
To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora   

[BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question

[William Stephan]

Well, I finally had time to unpack and test out the palm nailer I finally
got last week from Harbor Freight.  I really like it.  

AS has been said here, you can really screw up a nail if you don't start it
off straight, so here's a question.

 

I'd think a piece of pipe or tubing the diameter of the nail head you're
using with a tightly fitting solid rod inserted  in the pipe or tubing would
be an excellent way to start nails off on the straight.  You could just tap
the solid rod a couple times, and then take ofer with the nailer.  Does
anybody know if something like this is available commercially?  Has anybody
fabricated a nail starter on their own?

 

Enlightenment will be appreciated.

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting

[Tom Vos]

Betsy,
I've been reding the comments, and since my son and I just finished
installing vinyl flooring in our kitchen, I'll offer some comments.
As for the lazy susan, our corner base cabinet has a round back that keeps
anything from falling off.  Works great.
Your old vinyl was probably installed with underlayment under it.
Underlayment is a quarter inch plywood or composit panel that you lay down
first, and attach the vinyl to it.  The reason for this is that you can
cover over any small irregularities in the floor under the underlayment and
creat a smooth surface for the vinyl.  If you have any noticeable cracks or
slight bumps in the floor they will show up when you look at the surface of
the vinyl later.  As we were laying it, I was running my hand over it, and
could feel a lump where a tiny sliver set.
You probably can't peel the old vinyl loose from the floor and leave a
smooth enough surface to get a really smooth look to the vinyl.  That's why
the vinyl is glued to underlayment, which can be removed, and replace.
Our old vinyl was laid down before the cabinets, so we had to take up all
the cabinets to tear up the old vinyl and underlayment before we could put
down new underlayment.  Extra work, but I would do it again.
First, if you have underlayment under your old vinyl, it will be very
difficult to cut it back to the toe kick of your cabinet in order to get a
smooth, neat job with the vinyl.
Also, over the years vinyl tends to curl up at the edges, so if there is not
a molding, it's much neater for the cabinets to set on the vinyl.
Also, do some long range planning.  If possible you will want to lay the
vinyl as one piece, without a seam.  My kitchen was 12 by 16, which worked
perfect since vinyl comes in rolls 12 feet wide.  In order to lay it without
seams, we were going to go under the cabinets no matter what, so it was a no
brainer for us.  Now we have a clean surface over the whole kitchen floor
without any seam that might curl in the future.  If you do end up with a
seam, there is a seam sealer that should be applied, though I have seen that
fail.  Note too that if you are going to lay vinyl under the stove,
diswasher and refrigerator, and do it without seams, you aren't wasting any
vinyl by going under cabinets.
In our situation, we were able to use some of the vinyl from under the
cabinets to cover some steps and a landing off the back of the kitchen.
Others on the list have suggested using vinyl under the sink, or even in the
bottom of base cabinets or drawers.  A great idea.
Some vinyl now comes as a loose lay product.  That is, you put adhesive
along the edges, but not in the middle.  You unroll the vinyl into place,
glue down the edges, and as it lays, it actually shrinks up a bit and pulls
itself tight for a good look without bubbles.
If you ar going to lay vinyl or underlayment yourself, we found that buying
a roll of pattern paper was an immense help in fitting the underlayment into
doorways, and some of the more complicated spots.
Blessings,
Tom

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Betsy Whitney
  Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 4:25 PM
  To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting


  Aloha everyone,
  It's time to replace the counters in our kitchen and we have been
  advised that since our cabinets are 30 years old and were not the
  best quality to begin with, that we really need to replace the
  cabinets also. We were planning to install vinyl in the kitchen to
  match the vinyl that we put in the entry way and in part of my
  office, but now they are suggesting that since we are going to
  replace the cabinets, that we should wait until the cabinets have
  been removed, then install the vinyl and then put the cabinets on top
  of the vinyl. Is that usual?

  I am wanting thoughts and ideas about this project. Do any of you
  have items in your kitchens that you really like or dislike? I was
  looking at some lazy-susan units that look like they would be very
  helpful, but I just don't know how well they hold up and if they are
  truly sturdy. Besides suggesting that I move out until the job is
  done, I welcome any and all suggestions. Perhaps I can get my husband
  to take a vacation while the work is being done. That would really be
  of great help,...grin.
  Thanks, Betsy

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting

[Betsy Whitney]

Aloha Tom,
Thank you for the thoughtful complete message. Unfortunately, there 
is no underlayment under our current vinyl.
When we had vinyl laid in part of my office and in our entry way 
recently, they put down about four layers of self-leveling cementish 
stuff. The vinyl feels quite level and well stuck.

I'll certainly consider all of these issues in my final decision. I 
doubt that we will ever replace the floor in this house again, but I 
do have concerns that if something were to happen to the flooring and 
we had to replace it, there would be a mess trying to get it out from 
around the cabinets. We do plan to put a molding around the edges.

Take care,
Betsy
At 03:30 PM 1/11/2009, you wrote:

>Betsy,
>I've been reding the comments, and since my son and I just finished
>installing vinyl flooring in our kitchen, I'll offer some comments.
>As for the lazy susan, our corner base cabinet has a round back that keeps
>anything from falling off. Works great.
>Your old vinyl was probably installed with underlayment under it.
>Underlayment is a quarter inch plywood or composit panel that you lay down
>first, and attach the vinyl to it. The reason for this is that you can
>cover over any small irregularities in the floor under the underlayment and
>creat a smooth surface for the vinyl. If you have any noticeable cracks or
>slight bumps in the floor they will show up when you look at the surface of
>the vinyl later. As we were laying it, I was running my hand over it, and
>could feel a lump where a tiny sliver set.
>You probably can't peel the old vinyl loose from the floor and leave a
>smooth enough surface to get a really smooth look to the vinyl. That's why
>the vinyl is glued to underlayment, which can be removed, and replace.
>Our old vinyl was laid down before the cabinets, so we had to take up all
>the cabinets to tear up the old vinyl and underlayment before we could put
>down new underlayment. Extra work, but I would do it again.
>First, if you have underlayment under your old vinyl, it will be very
>difficult to cut it back to the toe kick of your cabinet in order to get a
>smooth, neat job with the vinyl.
>Also, over the years vinyl tends to curl up at the edges, so if there is not
>a molding, it's much neater for the cabinets to set on the vinyl.
>Also, do some long range planning. If possible you will want to lay the
>vinyl as one piece, without a seam. My kitchen was 12 by 16, which worked
>perfect since vinyl comes in rolls 12 feet wide. In order to lay it without
>seams, we were going to go under the cabinets no matter what, so it was a no
>brainer for us. Now we have a clean surface over the whole kitchen floor
>without any seam that might curl in the future. If you do end up with a
>seam, there is a seam sealer that should be applied, though I have seen that
>fail. Note too that if you are going to lay vinyl under the stove,
>diswasher and refrigerator, and do it without seams, you aren't wasting any
>vinyl by going under cabinets.
>In our situation, we were able to use some of the vinyl from under the
>cabinets to cover some steps and a landing off the back of the kitchen.
>Others on the list have suggested using vinyl under the sink, or even in the
>bottom of base cabinets or drawers. A great idea.
>Some vinyl now comes as a loose lay product. That is, you put adhesive
>along the edges, but not in the middle. You unroll the vinyl into place,
>glue down the edges, and as it lays, it actually shrinks up a bit and pulls
>itself tight for a good look without bubbles.
>If you ar going to lay vinyl or underlayment yourself, we found that buying
>a roll of pattern paper was an immense help in fitting the underlayment into
>doorways, and some of the more complicated spots.
>Blessings,
>Tom
>
>-Original Message-
>From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Betsy Whitney
>Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 4:25 PM
>To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting
>
>Aloha everyone,
>It's time to replace the counters in our kitchen and we have been
>advised that since our cabinets are 30 years old and were not the
>best quality to begin with, that we really need to replace the
>cabinets also. We were planning to install vinyl in the kitchen to
>match the vinyl that we put in the entry way and in part of my
>office, but now they are suggesting that since we are going to
>replace the cabinets, that we should wait until the cabinets have
>been removed, then install the vinyl and then put the cabinets on top
>of the vinyl. Is that usual?
>
>I am wanting thoughts and ideas about this project. Do any of you
>have items in your kitchens that you really like or dislike? I was
>looking at some lazy-susan units that look like they would be very
>helpful, but I just don't know how well they hold up and if they are
>truly sturdy. Besides suggesting that I move out until the

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question

[Bob Kennedy]

I just stand the nail on end and drop the nailer over it.  The key is light 
pressure until it starts.  Come to think of it, I never apply much pressure to 
the nailer itself.  As long as it is pounding away that has always been enough.

If you're wanting to start a nail with a hammer or don't like the feel of the 
nail vibrating in your hand, think about using a spring loaded clothes pin to 
hold the nail.  There is already a notch in the pin or the clothes line and it 
will hold a nail as well.


  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 7:52 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question


  Well, I finally had time to unpack and test out the palm nailer I finally
  got last week from Harbor Freight. I really like it. 

  AS has been said here, you can really screw up a nail if you don't start it
  off straight, so here's a question.

  I'd think a piece of pipe or tubing the diameter of the nail head you're
  using with a tightly fitting solid rod inserted in the pipe or tubing would
  be an excellent way to start nails off on the straight. You could just tap
  the solid rod a couple times, and then take ofer with the nailer. Does
  anybody know if something like this is available commercially? Has anybody
  fabricated a nail starter on their own?

  Enlightenment will be appreciated.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie!

[Michael Baldwin]

Dale,
Is this similar to the system you are talking about for a corner cabinet?
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11088
Michael
 

  _  

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 9:02 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie!



Not sure I can remember fully, seems to me though that there would only
really be room for two trays, maybe three, there really isn't room for more
than that in the average lower cabinet. The edges of the baskets are about 4
maybe 5 inches high but are probably better suited for canned goods or dry
goods than for pots and pans.

They did have a rather clever pantry system though, like a huge tall drawer,
probably 6 feet high with several basket like trays. when you pull it out
you can access the trays from both sides. I was impressed with the
accessibility of the trays, easy to locate things. Could be used for about
anything, the basket style would be good for keeping things clean, stuff not
collecting in the bottoms.

- Original Message - 
From: Betsy Whitney 
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie!

Aloha Dale,
If I am imagining this right, I think I'd like it better than a 
lazy-susan. Are you able to tell me approximately what size the 
baskets are, how many, and do you think I could put pots and pans in 
them? One of the prices we pay for living in Hawaii is that many 
things are not available to touch on the outer islands. I may need to 
go to Honolulu to see some of these items, so I'm making a list. I'll 
put this basket item on my list.
Betsy
At 03:57 PM 1/10/2009, you wrote:

>As an alternative, I saw some rather interesting hardware at Lee 
>Valley a couple of summers ago, probably it is also available from 
>other cabinet stores. It is a series of baskets attached to the door 
>in the corner which, when opened pull another series of basket like 
>trays into view from under the corner.
>
>Just thought I would mention this as an alternative.
>
>Some of the better Lazy Susans have a sheet of hardboard bent around 
>the inside very close to the trays of the carousel which is pretty 
>good at keeping things from falling off.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie!

[Dale Leavens]

Hi Michael,

Well it could be but when I looked at the details page they mention birch 
shelves and I don't remember that. Also a double action which I don't recall 
seeing, seems to me the one I saw you open the door and there is a rounded tray 
behind the door which, when you swing the door open draws the associated shelf 
out from the depth of the corner so you can reach back into the cupboard to 
reach it. I am pretty sure too there weren't quite so many shelves this would 
restrict the height of goods you could put in the unit but of course you could 
put in more of them.

I'll see if I can find it on Lee Valley.



  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 9:09 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie!


  Dale,
  Is this similar to the system you are talking about for a corner cabinet?
  http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11088
  Michael


  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 9:02 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie!

  Not sure I can remember fully, seems to me though that there would only
  really be room for two trays, maybe three, there really isn't room for more
  than that in the average lower cabinet. The edges of the baskets are about 4
  maybe 5 inches high but are probably better suited for canned goods or dry
  goods than for pots and pans.

  They did have a rather clever pantry system though, like a huge tall drawer,
  probably 6 feet high with several basket like trays. when you pull it out
  you can access the trays from both sides. I was impressed with the
  accessibility of the trays, easy to locate things. Could be used for about
  anything, the basket style would be good for keeping things clean, stuff not
  collecting in the bottoms.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney 
  To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 9:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie!

  Aloha Dale,
  If I am imagining this right, I think I'd like it better than a 
  lazy-susan. Are you able to tell me approximately what size the 
  baskets are, how many, and do you think I could put pots and pans in 
  them? One of the prices we pay for living in Hawaii is that many 
  things are not available to touch on the outer islands. I may need to 
  go to Honolulu to see some of these items, so I'm making a list. I'll 
  put this basket item on my list.
  Betsy
  At 03:57 PM 1/10/2009, you wrote:

  >As an alternative, I saw some rather interesting hardware at Lee 
  >Valley a couple of summers ago, probably it is also available from 
  >other cabinet stores. It is a series of baskets attached to the door 
  >in the corner which, when opened pull another series of basket like 
  >trays into view from under the corner.
  >
  >Just thought I would mention this as an alternative.
  >
  >Some of the better Lazy Susans have a sheet of hardboard bent around 
  >the inside very close to the trays of the carousel which is pretty 
  >good at keeping things from falling off.
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting

[Spiro]

the lazy's I have had were in a tube back. There was no where for an item 
to go. If it was thin enough to fall it would fall to the level below.
The were also corner items, and the "L" front was the back, which was 
removable via screws. Then the unit was turned to "L" in front and the 
fake door front was lifted from clips and you could reach all the way 
back. These are the 3/4 type where the last 1/4 is the "L". It's a package 
instal, not an open air assembly.
Can't speak on flooring, reading as y'all go along.
Best to you.





On Sat, 10 Jan 2009, Betsy Whitney wrote:

> Aloha Mycell,
> Thanks for your input. I am going to cut and paste the part of your
> message about the lazy-susan to the list because I think it's
> important. I'll leave off your name because you seem to want it private.
>
> As you can see, already we can't agree on when the floor goes in... I
> knew this was going to be a drama, lolol.
>
> The weather is rather dreary today, gray and rainy. The best part is
> that it isn't cold.
> Take care, and thanks.
> Betsy
> At 01:01 PM 1/10/2009, you wrote:
>
>> Hi Betsy,
>> My opinion on lazy Susan's are their not worth it. A novelty yes and
>> something unique but what if something falls off at the back of the
>> turn, and gets stuck or wedged. you can't reach it or even figure
>> out what it is. It's not even a sighted verses blind thing, if it's
>> stuck it's stuck. I've had them and would not want them again.
>> That's my story and I'm sticking to it!. You asked I told.
>>
>> As far as the vinyl I would mark out where cabinets are going to be
>> and place the final down first not covering the part of the floor
>> that's going to be covered by cabinet because once the cabinet is
>> set in the weight of the cabinet will make permanent impressions in
>> any vinyl flooring and I certainly wouldn't want to waist my money
>> on flooring that will never be seen yet damaged.
>>
>> How's the weather there wonderful!! I'm jealous. Good luck on your
>> project. Hope this helps.
>>
>> Warm regards,
>>
>> Mycell
>>
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Betsy Whitney
>> To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
>> Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 5:25 PM
>> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting
>>
>> Aloha everyone,
>> It's time to replace the counters in our kitchen and we have been
>> advised that since our cabinets are 30 years old and were not the
>> best quality to begin with, that we really need to replace the
>> cabinets also. We were planning to install vinyl in the kitchen to
>> match the vinyl that we put in the entry way and in part of my
>> office, but now they are suggesting that since we are going to
>> replace the cabinets, that we should wait until the cabinets have
>> been removed, then install the vinyl and then put the cabinets on top
>> of the vinyl. Is that usual?
>>
>> I am wanting thoughts and ideas about this project. Do any of you
>> have items in your kitchens that you really like or dislike? I was
>> looking at some lazy-susan units that look like they would be very
>> helpful, but I just don't know how well they hold up and if they are
>> truly sturdy. Besides suggesting that I move out until the job is
>> done, I welcome any and all suggestions. Perhaps I can get my husband
>> to take a vacation while the work is being done. That would really be
>> of great help,...grin.
>> Thanks, Betsy
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>> --
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
>> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.5/1885 - Release Date:
>> 1/9/2009 7:59 PM
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] routers (fwd)

[Spiro]

I'm saving your previous, Riobi email for reading. Thank you for that.
This Craftsman has a press-in slide switch.
It disconnects power and locks the rotor. I know because as a dummy I 
squeezed the trigger and nothing happened. Good as it is a borrow. I mean 
not a buzz and no spin.
The other type with the spring loaded rotor lock do require pressure and 
are a consideration.





On Sat, 10 Jan 2009, Lenny McHugh wrote:

> I have the Ryobi and my dad's old Black and Decker  I had a craftsman for a
> while and did not like the two wrenches to change the bit.
> - Original Message -
> From: "Spiro" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 10:31 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] routers (fwd)
>
>
> Lenny,
> What companies have you owned?
> I found the craftsman much quieter than the previous Skill.
> Less fan on the craftsman, but way less whirring whoosing whining. Lower
> tonal range. Baritone instead of high tenner and whiny.
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, 9 Jan 2009, Lenny McHugh wrote:
>
>> I have a Ryobi 2hp plunge router that I do like. Shortly after I got it I
>> had a bit that I could not get out. I called their support and the woman
>> gave me a suggestion that worked. She told me the most returns are because
>> people like me over tighten and can't get the bit out.
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "Dan Rossi" 
>> To: 
>> Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 10:34 AM
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] routers (fwd)
>>
>>
>> Terry wrote:
>>
>>> Likewise.  If a collet is over-tightened it will eventually have to be
>>> replaced.  Snug is good.  Torqued isn't.
>>>
>> Hmm, that probably explains why bits have been sticking in my router, and
>> why I probably need a new collet.  I crank the hell out of it when
>> tightening in a new bit.  I've heard many stories about bits walking out,
>> ruining a nice piece of wood, or your whole damn day if it fully comes
>> out.  So, I always tightened my bits in super tight.  Guess I can ease off
>> a little.
>>
>> --
>> Blue skies.
>> Dan Rossi
>> Carnegie Mellon University.
>> E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
>> Tel: (412) 268-9081
>>
>> 
>>
>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>> Or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>> List Members At The Following address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>>
>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>
>> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
>> address for more information:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>> list
>> just send a blank message to:
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>>
>>
>>
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>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
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> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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>
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> List Members At The Following address:
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>
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] routers (fwd)

[Spiro]

that's what I've found with the 8 amp Skill. Through 3/4 HDF, never a slow 
down.
I think the 6 amp Craftsman was challenged through 5/8 kilm dried knotty 
pine.





On Sat, 10 Jan 2009, Lenny McHugh wrote:

> That I do not know. At the time it appeared to be the best value for the
> money especially with a 2 year warranty.
> I have made a few raised panel doors where I cut the full cut in oak with no
> problem. I did have to slow down because of a large diameter bit. It plowed
> through with no problem.
> - Original Message -
> From: "Spiro" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 10:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] routers (fwd)
>
>
> So is Riobi better than Skill or Crafstman all things the same?
> I like the fast set up of a plunge router. Press and lock. Or, just set
> depth stop and go by feel when you get going.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, 9 Jan 2009, Lenny McHugh wrote:
>
>> I have a Ryobi 2hp plunge router that I do like. Shortly after I got it I
>> had a bit that I could not get out. I called their support and the woman
>> gave me a suggestion that worked. She told me the most returns are because
>> people like me over tighten and can't get the bit out.
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "Dan Rossi" 
>> To: 
>> Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 10:34 AM
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] routers (fwd)
>>
>>
>> Terry wrote:
>>
>>> Likewise.  If a collet is over-tightened it will eventually have to be
>>> replaced.  Snug is good.  Torqued isn't.
>>>
>> Hmm, that probably explains why bits have been sticking in my router, and
>> why I probably need a new collet.  I crank the hell out of it when
>> tightening in a new bit.  I've heard many stories about bits walking out,
>> ruining a nice piece of wood, or your whole damn day if it fully comes
>> out.  So, I always tightened my bits in super tight.  Guess I can ease off
>> a little.
>>
>> --
>> Blue skies.
>> Dan Rossi
>> Carnegie Mellon University.
>> E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
>> Tel: (412) 268-9081
>>
>> 
>>
>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>> Or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>> List Members At The Following address:
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
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> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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>
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> List Members At The Following address:
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>
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>
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] flood work

[Spiro]

Hello Dale;
Thank You.
We are thinking of creating a clayrun off slope, and from what I read 
here, the farther it extends, the better.
We are going down 5ft.
Would you recommend clay against the membrane instead of cement then?
If we were to tamp clay or cement under the foundation, draw the barrier 
down away from the house, sloping down, would you suggest clay instead of 
cement for the most part at the bottom of the trench?
Can clay be cemented to the mineral side of the rubber sheeting?
Add what you can as they will be here tomorrow. Thanks!





On Sat, 10 Jan 2009, Dale Leavens wrote:

> Well Spiro,
>
> That might work. I can only really speak from my experience around here where 
> the soil is clay and therefore offers more resistance to water than does 
> cement, particularly cement block.
>
> It seems to me that the major misunderstanding people have is that cement is 
> a barrier to water. I suppose it is something of a filter all right.
>
> Now what I have read and seen about patching cracks is that you under cut the 
> crack with a masonry chisel so it is wider inside than the surface. You brush 
> as much debris out of the crack as you can then force hydraulic cement into 
> the crack, it expands as it cures. The main purpose of this though is for 
> structural integrity. Certainly for a time at least it will retard seepage.
>
> Now having dug down the outside and disturbed the soil you will have improved 
> the drainage for a while at least and that will encourage more water against 
> the building after you back fill. You will in effect be encouraging more 
> water pressure against your wall where you have patched.
>
> A water proof membrane will certainly help, I wouldn't dig or otherwise get 
> under the footings though. If the wall and footing is cracking it is almost 
> certainly because the footing has settled into the ground a little. Think of 
> it, it doesn't take much to open a widening crack. Imagine a 4 by 8 sheet of 
> plywood standing against a wall next to another. Then raise one corner even 
> just the thickness of a nail. By the top of the sheets you will have opened 
> up a substantial gap.
>
> You don't therefore want to disturb the soil under the footing any more than 
> absolutely necessary. In my estimation and that is just really an opinion, 
> you would be better off allowing the membrane to run out over the floor of 
> the excavation.
>
> Now here where I live we would excavate the full diameter of the building to 
> the footing and lay weeping tile and back fill with aggregate. Commonly 
> people paint the walls on the outside with tar but that is beginning to lose 
> popularity in favour of other membrane types of water proofing below ground 
> level or even special insulation.
>
> In the end I expect you will have to excavate all around the basement to 
> install a weeping system but I wonder if there is a suitable location there 
> for a sump and pump.
>
> Another possibility would be to fill the crack, apply a membrane but do not 
> disturb the soil under the foundation.
>
> When you back fill, tamp it reasonably, slope the ground away from the 
> building a little then maybe lay something like cement patio slabs to form a 
> walk slightly sloped away from the building. You could then trench along the 
> outside edge of this walk way maybe a foot, lay in weeping tile and fill with 
> gravel to carry water well away from the building and thus away from the 
> foundation and basement wall. IT can't get in if it doesn't get close.
>
> What is standard building procedure where you live? Do people put weeping 
> systems into storm sewers?
>
> Hope this is somehow helpful.
>
>
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Spiro
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 9:47 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] flood work
>
>
>  Hi I know we've talked about this before.
>  But I want to double check my plans here.
>
>  My basement is a foundation, a layer of clay charcoal and gravel over
>  that, with leveled concrete over that.
>  So it is a finish floor and a foundation with layer in between.
>  The first foundation crack is 9 feet from the front, and the second is 7
>  feet north of that. North is downhill on this property. The house is 50
>  feet long.
>  I do not really want to run a french drain 43 feet.
>  But here is what we are thinking of doing.
>  Please, Dale, or any knowing folk, tear this apart if it is way off.
>  Tinker with it where needed.
>
>  Two cracks start about 3 feet above ground. They go to the foundation
>  which is 6feet deep. The finish floor is 4 ft from ground level. There is
>  2 ft from finish floor to foundation.
>  We have put a 2x1 size whole in the finish floor.
>  We've cleared 2x1 of the between material to see the crack in the
>  foundation and where water is actually entering.
>  We've cleared material till we were removing dry matera\ial.
>  We need to run 7 feet north to the next crack.
>
>  We were think

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie!

[Dale Leavens]

OK,

Here is some of what I have found at Lee Valley. My default is Canadian  
pricing, if you go to the site though you can select U.S. pricing. There is 
additional shipping charges and to Hawaii there are probably additional charges.



 
   
   
Appliance Lifter Brackets

   
   
   
   
  These steel brackets are used to support a swing-up shelf 
that locks in position at working height. To lower, just lift a bit past the 
raised position to release the lock. 
  Installed in a cabinet at least 19" deep, they accommodate 
objects 16" high, with a depth of 16" (no limit on shelf width). 

  Useful for mixers, blenders, or any other object that's 
awkward to handle. 

  Maximum recommended load of 44 lb.
 
   
   
  Appliance Lifter Brackets
   12K27.01   $99.00
  




   

  I think there must be an error regarding the depth of the drawers 
required in this following product, I'll send them a message later and see. I 
am guessing the leading 1 as in 17 inches is incorrect, that it should be 7 
inches deep etc.


   
  Drawer Tray Inserts
   
   
  
 
A. One drawer in the kitchen is always only half full - the cutlery 
drawer. This drawer kit doubles the usable space in such a drawer. The bottom 
tray is trimmed to fit inside the drawer, and the top tray rolls back in molded 
grooves, supported by four rollers. The back of the drawer may have to be 
trimmed down to allow the top tray to slide past. 

Both sizes of trays have a white gloss finish and rounded corners 
for easy cleaning. The small drawer set (shown) will fit drawers 12" to 
14-1/2". The large set fits drawers 14-1/2" to 17-1/2" wide. Both sets are 
3-1/4" high, and require a drawer depth of at least 17" with a total distance 
from the drawer front to the back of the cabinet of at least 21-1/2". Solid and 
well-made trays. Both come with installation instructions. 

B. This double cutlery tray has integral recessed ball-bearing 
slides between the top and bottom trays. Formed from material over 1/8" thick, 
the trays have a solid feel. The rounded corners and glossy finish make them 
easy to clean. Designed for drawers between 13-3/8" and 15-3/8" wide, and a 
depth greater than 17-1/8" - just trim to fit. Overall height is 2-3/4". As 
with all sliding double trays, cutting down the back of your drawer will be 
necessary to allow the top tray to slide back. A well-made tray. 

C. These heavy-duty polystyrene trays allow you to convert a 
kitchen drawer into a handy and organized spice rack. When trimmed to fit in 
your drawer, the trays display spice bottles on an angle for quick 
identification. Both trays have a high-gloss white finish and rounded corners 
for easy cleaning. The small tray fits drawers from 13-1/2" to 15-3/4" wide. 
The large tray fits drawers from 15" to 17-3/4" wide. Each tray measures 
approximately 2" high (allow an extra 2" for bottles) and requires a minimum 
drawer depth of 16-1/2". The small tray holds 28 spice bottles 4" high by 
1-3/4" in diameter; the large tray holds 32. (Bottles not included.) 


   
 
 
A.   Small Drawer Tray Set
 12K75.10   $48.50
  
Large Drawer Tray Set
 12K75.20   $53.50
  
B.   Double Cutlery Tray
 12K94.01   $73.50
  
C.   Small Spice Tray
 12K85.01   $14.90
  
Large Spice Tray
 12K85.02   $16.50

 




I can't seem to find the draw-out corner unit but there are a few types of 
pantry devices and other wire basket styles. I recommend browsing the site you 
may get several ideas.



  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 9:09 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie!


  Dale,
  Is this similar to the system you are talking about for a corner cabinet?
  http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11088
  Michael


  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 9:02 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie!

  Not sure I can remember fully, seems to me though that there would only
  really be room for two trays, maybe three, there really isn't room for more
  than that in the average lower 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] flood work

[Dale Leavens]

Once you patch the wall and footing I don't see any advantage to using any more 
cement. You stick the membrane to the wall well enough to keep it there while 
you back fill, the fill will hold the material to the wall. Just drape it down 
to the bottom of the hole and allow it to spread over the floor. I suppose you 
might tamp some clay against the bottom corner just to round it off a little.

As you approach the top with fill you might even consider draping another piece 
of membrane stuck a little below the top of the wall membrane and spread out 
over the hole so that any water in the upper layers is also taken away from the 
building before the last of the fill. This may be overkill but you do have a 
problem you don't wish to repair again.

In general though, it is my understanding that you don't really beat water, you 
have to get rid of it.

Do what you can to form a cap around the outside of the building to carry water 
away. Contour the land to move water around the building. Give it a place to go 
so it doesn't go into your basement which, after all is just a big hole in the 
ground as far as water is concerned and it will find any way it can to get into 
the hole.

Make sure that all your eves are well troughed and that the down pipes take the 
water well away down hill from the building. I have buried pipes in the ground 
to take water to the street, in my case the house is quite a bit higher than 
the street but the back lane is higher than the house. I have arranged a fairly 
decent little gully between my yard ant the neighbour. When we get one of those 
occasional torrential down pours in the summer, those big thunder storms there 
is a real torrent but it scoots right by the house about 8 feet to the south of 
it.

Does that help?

I have forgotten just where you live.



  - Original Message - 
  From: Spiro 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 10:15 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] flood work


  Hello Dale;
  Thank You.
  We are thinking of creating a clayrun off slope, and from what I read 
  here, the farther it extends, the better.
  We are going down 5ft.
  Would you recommend clay against the membrane instead of cement then?
  If we were to tamp clay or cement under the foundation, draw the barrier 
  down away from the house, sloping down, would you suggest clay instead of 
  cement for the most part at the bottom of the trench?
  Can clay be cemented to the mineral side of the rubber sheeting?
  Add what you can as they will be here tomorrow. Thanks!

  On Sat, 10 Jan 2009, Dale Leavens wrote:

  > Well Spiro,
  >
  > That might work. I can only really speak from my experience around here 
where the soil is clay and therefore offers more resistance to water than does 
cement, particularly cement block.
  >
  > It seems to me that the major misunderstanding people have is that cement 
is a barrier to water. I suppose it is something of a filter all right.
  >
  > Now what I have read and seen about patching cracks is that you under cut 
the crack with a masonry chisel so it is wider inside than the surface. You 
brush as much debris out of the crack as you can then force hydraulic cement 
into the crack, it expands as it cures. The main purpose of this though is for 
structural integrity. Certainly for a time at least it will retard seepage.
  >
  > Now having dug down the outside and disturbed the soil you will have 
improved the drainage for a while at least and that will encourage more water 
against the building after you back fill. You will in effect be encouraging 
more water pressure against your wall where you have patched.
  >
  > A water proof membrane will certainly help, I wouldn't dig or otherwise get 
under the footings though. If the wall and footing is cracking it is almost 
certainly because the footing has settled into the ground a little. Think of 
it, it doesn't take much to open a widening crack. Imagine a 4 by 8 sheet of 
plywood standing against a wall next to another. Then raise one corner even 
just the thickness of a nail. By the top of the sheets you will have opened up 
a substantial gap.
  >
  > You don't therefore want to disturb the soil under the footing any more 
than absolutely necessary. In my estimation and that is just really an opinion, 
you would be better off allowing the membrane to run out over the floor of the 
excavation.
  >
  > Now here where I live we would excavate the full diameter of the building 
to the footing and lay weeping tile and back fill with aggregate. Commonly 
people paint the walls on the outside with tar but that is beginning to lose 
popularity in favour of other membrane types of water proofing below ground 
level or even special insulation.
  >
  > In the end I expect you will have to excavate all around the basement to 
install a weeping system but I wonder if there is a suitable location there for 
a sump and pump.
  >
  > Another possibility would be to fill the crack

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie!

[Betsy Whitney]

Aloha Dale,
Wow! This is great! I have a couple of drawers that I spent ages 
looking for trays that I could set on the top edge of my drawer that 
I could slide back about seven inches to expose part of the drawer 
underneath, or I could lift the tray out completely to find things in 
the back. I never thought to look for something more precisely for 
this purpose. Thanks a bunch.
Betsy
At 05:23 PM 1/11/2009, you wrote:

>OK,
>
>Here is some of what I have found at Lee Valley. My default is 
>Canadian pricing, if you go to the site though you can select U.S. 
>pricing. There is additional shipping charges and to Hawaii there 
>are probably additional charges.
>
>Appliance Lifter Brackets
>
>
>
>
>
>These steel brackets are used to support a swing-up shelf that locks 
>in position at working height. To lower, just lift a bit past the 
>raised position to release the lock.
>Installed in a cabinet at least 19" deep, they accommodate objects 
>16" high, with a depth of 16" (no limit on shelf width).
>
>Useful for mixers, blenders, or any other object that's awkward to handle.
>
>Maximum recommended load of 44 lb.
>
>
>
>Appliance Lifter Brackets
>12K27.01 $99.00
>
>
>I think there must be an error regarding the depth of the drawers 
>required in this following product, I'll send them a message later 
>and see. I am guessing the leading 1 as in 17 inches is incorrect, 
>that it should be 7 inches deep etc.
>
>Drawer Tray Inserts
>
>
>
>
>A. One drawer in the kitchen is always only half full - the cutlery 
>drawer. This drawer kit doubles the usable space in such a drawer. 
>The bottom tray is trimmed to fit inside the drawer, and the top 
>tray rolls back in molded grooves, supported by four rollers. The 
>back of the drawer may have to be trimmed down to allow the top tray 
>to slide past.
>
>Both sizes of trays have a white gloss finish and rounded corners 
>for easy cleaning. The small drawer set (shown) will fit drawers 12" 
>to 14-1/2". The large set fits drawers 14-1/2" to 17-1/2" wide. Both 
>sets are 3-1/4" high, and require a drawer depth of at least 17" 
>with a total distance from the drawer front to the back of the 
>cabinet of at least 21-1/2". Solid and well-made trays. Both come 
>with installation instructions.
>
>B. This double cutlery tray has integral recessed ball-bearing 
>slides between the top and bottom trays. Formed from material over 
>1/8" thick, the trays have a solid feel. The rounded corners and 
>glossy finish make them easy to clean. Designed for drawers between 
>13-3/8" and 15-3/8" wide, and a depth greater than 17-1/8" - just 
>trim to fit. Overall height is 2-3/4". As with all sliding double 
>trays, cutting down the back of your drawer will be necessary to 
>allow the top tray to slide back. A well-made tray.
>
>C. These heavy-duty polystyrene trays allow you to convert a kitchen 
>drawer into a handy and organized spice rack. When trimmed to fit in 
>your drawer, the trays display spice bottles on an angle for quick 
>identification. Both trays have a high-gloss white finish and 
>rounded corners for easy cleaning. The small tray fits drawers from 
>13-1/2" to 15-3/4" wide. The large tray fits drawers from 15" to 
>17-3/4" wide. Each tray measures approximately 2" high (allow an 
>extra 2" for bottles) and requires a minimum drawer depth of 
>16-1/2". The small tray holds 28 spice bottles 4" high by 1-3/4" in 
>diameter; the large tray holds 32. (Bottles not included.)
>
>A. Small Drawer Tray Set
>12K75.10 $48.50
>
>Large Drawer Tray Set
>12K75.20 $53.50
>
>B. Double Cutlery Tray
>12K94.01 $73.50
>
>C. Small Spice Tray
>12K85.01 $14.90
>
>Large Spice Tray
>12K85.02 $16.50
>
>
>
>I can't seem to find the draw-out corner unit but there are a few 
>types of pantry devices and other wire basket styles. I recommend 
>browsing the site you may get several ideas.
>
>- Original Message -
>From: Michael Baldwin
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 9:09 PM
>Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie!
>
>Dale,
>Is this similar to the system you are talking about for a corner cabinet?
>http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11088
>Michael
>
>_
>
>From: 
>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>  [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
>On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
>Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 9:02 PM
>To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lazy Suzie!
>
>Not sure I can remember fully, seems to me though that there would only
>really be room for two trays, maybe three, there really isn't room for more
>than that in the average lower cabinet. The edges of the baskets are about 4
>maybe 5 inches high but are probably better suited for canned goods or dry
>goods than for pots and pans.
>
>They did have a rather clever pantry system though, like a huge tall drawer,
>pr