date:20091024

You can get the canisters at any of the big box stores.  I think Passload 
carries a set up which should be available everywhere, and I think Lowes 
carries something from Kobalt.  They run in the neighborhood of $100 so it's 
not cheap getting started.  After you get the regulator and hoses, all you need 
is a new canister from time to time.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Vos 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 11:43 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers

Most palm nailers are pneumatic.
  Sears has the battery powered Auto hammer. Eventually other manufacturers
  may come out with competing models.
  One of the things I don't like about the pneumatic is that you have to be
  connected to a compressor, making it rather clumsy to move around with.
  However, I saw on This Old House that it is possible to get an air
  cannister that clips to your belt. It holds 3,000 PSI -- that's right, they
  said three thousand psi. Enough to use on a pneumatic stapler to do a whole
  floor.
  But I haven't been able to find any.
  If anyone knows where they can be purchased, I'd be interested.
  Blessings,
  Tom

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Tom Hodges
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 9:48 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers

  Can anyone tell me if Palm Nailers are available in both electric and
  pneumatic? If they are available in both, dan anyone recommend which might
  be the best?Thanks, Tom

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] 1/2 inch machine screws

2009-10-24 Thread Lenny McHugh

you are correct in the sizes. I don't know the thread but the guy at the 
hardware store said it was a coarse thread.
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hodges tomhod...@fuse.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 11:19 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] 1/2 inch machine screws

Can you clarify the number and size machine screws you need?

I think you are saying you need a quantity of Four Screws.  Is that right?

Then the size is one half inch Diameter by one inch long.  Is that right?

Next, you want a flat head with a screwdriver slot in it.  Correct?

Next, do you know the number of threads per inch?

Last, Do you know if it is a metric or standard size?

The reason I'm asking all this is because I'm going to a store today and
I'll look for it for you.

Answer as soon as you can as I'm leaving shortly.

Regards,  Tom

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 6:58 PM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] 1/2 inch machine screws

Wonder where I can purchase four 1/2 inch  one inch long machine screws.
Some time ago I purchased the T-nuts for my drill press and they take a 1/2
inch screw. I was at two hardware stores and they do not have that screw.
They have hex head and cap head but not a flat head straight slot screw.
There is something that I want to try before I purchase a top. Tomorrow a
machinist friend is coming over. I talked to him about drilling and tapping
to make the table relatively permanent.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
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__ NOD32 4538 (20091024) Information __

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers

They are available in rechargeable and pneumatic versions. There is a 
Mastercraft electric model available on sale at Canadian Tire this week for 
$79. It is a 12 volt model.

As for which is better, as usual it depends on use and need and similar things. 
Maybe the best is a pneumatic one from Porter Cable, it seems to allow for the 
widest range of nail sizes up to 6 and a half inches.I don't remember what they 
charge for it but I think a bit over 200 bucks. I think it is the one I would 
buy if I expect to do a lot of work. The disadvantage is dragging around all 
that hose. For a few dozen nails or a one off deck or fence requiring a couple 
of hundred nails I think the electric would sufficient for most people. a 
little heavier but more easily portable and no hose pulling you back or under 
your feet and so on.

Bear in mind that I don't own one, I still get some perverse pleasure from 
swinging a hammer except of course those really close quarters situations where 
you don't have room. If ever I do any significant amount of framing again I'll 
buy a nail gun and shoot now that they are coming down in price.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Hodges 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 10:47 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers


Can anyone tell me if Palm Nailers are available in both electric and
  pneumatic? If they are available in both, dan anyone recommend which might
  be the best?Thanks, Tom

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers

2009-10-24 Thread Tom Vos

Thank you.  I'll be at Lowes next week, and I'll chec it out.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 11:12 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers

You can get the canisters at any of the big box stores. I think Passload
carries a set up which should be available everywhere, and I think Lowes
carries something from Kobalt. They run in the neighborhood of $100 so it's
not cheap getting started. After you get the regulator and hoses, all you
need is a new canister from time to time.
  - Original Message -
  From: Tom Vos
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 11:43 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers

  Most palm nailers are pneumatic.
  Sears has the battery powered Auto hammer. Eventually other manufacturers
  may come out with competing models.
  One of the things I don't like about the pneumatic is that you have to be
  connected to a compressor, making it rather clumsy to move around with.
  However, I saw on This Old House that it is possible to get an air
  cannister that clips to your belt. It holds 3,000 PSI -- that's right,
they
  said three thousand psi. Enough to use on a pneumatic stapler to do a
whole
  floor.
  But I haven't been able to find any.
  If anyone knows where they can be purchased, I'd be interested.
  Blessings,
  Tom

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Tom Hodges
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 9:48 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers

  Can anyone tell me if Palm Nailers are available in both electric and
  pneumatic? If they are available in both, dan anyone recommend which might
  be the best?Thanks, Tom

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers

Try here:

www.jacpacco2.com

Pretty good for a little nailing but continuous stream work like palm nailers 
or wrenches and other applications would require a lot of Co2 cylinders.



  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Vos 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 11:43 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers


Most palm nailers are pneumatic.
  Sears has the battery powered Auto hammer. Eventually other manufacturers
  may come out with competing models.
  One of the things I don't like about the pneumatic is that you have to be
  connected to a compressor, making it rather clumsy to move around with.
  However, I saw on This Old House that it is possible to get an air
  cannister that clips to your belt. It holds 3,000 PSI -- that's right, they
  said three thousand psi. Enough to use on a pneumatic stapler to do a whole
  floor.
  But I haven't been able to find any.
  If anyone knows where they can be purchased, I'd be interested.
  Blessings,
  Tom

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Tom Hodges
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 9:48 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Palm Nailers

  Can anyone tell me if Palm Nailers are available in both electric and
  pneumatic? If they are available in both, dan anyone recommend which might
  be the best?Thanks, Tom

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] drill press table fixed

2009-10-24 Thread Lenny McHugh

Well, my machinist friend came over with his tools and did not need them.
When I showed him what my problem was he thought that the bolt with the
wooden handle could be tightened more. I told him that I did not have the
strength in my hands to do it. When he tried he could not get hand tightened
enough. He took one of my deep sockets and a breaking bar and used the
longer leverage to tighten the table. There is now no problem with it. He
suggested that I get about a 8 inch piece of pipe with at least a 5/8 inside
diameter. I could use it as a lever to tighten when/if I ever need to do so.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
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addressing.
Help stop identity theft.

Send any questions regarding list management to:
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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[BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank

Aloha all,
This is a bit of a long story, but I'm venting along the way.

Well, my first mistake was telling he who knows everything that I 
was going to replace the supply-line valve on the toilet because it 
was leaking. Not a big deal, just get the spare one out of the 
storage room and replace it.

He wanted to be so helpful, so he went to the storage room and said, 
Gosh, there doesn't seem to be one. You must have used it on the 
kitchen sink when you put the new faucet in and forgot to get another.

I knew we had purchased two for that job and there was another one, 
but I had to go to another island the next day, so just shut the 
water off to the toilet and decided to deal with it later. While I 
was away, he went to the store and reported that there were so many 
different ones, he didn't know what to buy. When I got back I found 
the one we already had and he ran off to the bathroom to be the hero 
and replace the valve. In the process, he managed to shove hard 
enough on the tank that it broke the seal between the tank and the 
bowl. He tried to convince me that it had been leaking from there all 
the time as the water was running down between the tank and the bowl. 
Yeah, right!!

So, I know nothing about that seal between the tank and the bowl. It 
is an American Standard. I'm not sure how old it is, but I've been 
here 12 years, and it was here awhile before I moved in. Any 
suggestions are much appreciated. Oh, and by the way, he did not 
manage to get the old valve off and it is soaking with liquid wrench. 
fortunately, we have two bathrooms.
Betsy



Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank

A few things.

1) There will be a couple of bolts hanging down under the back of the stool. 
These come through the  bottom of the tank. If they are not too rusted they 
should remove and allow you to lift the tank. They don't want to be too tight 
or they will crack the porcelain tank or the stool.

There is also a nut which holds the supply line to the float valve apparatus 
inside the tank too. It needs to be removed. The tank will then lift off of the 
stool.

There will be a rubber ring, more recently it is usually made of neoprene foam 
of some sort which is tapered and fits between the tank and the stool. You will 
want to empty the tank fully before disassembling the tank from the stool and 
take care when reassembling not to tighten the tank to the stool so tightly as 
to crack them.

2) Now, the valve. Are you talking about the stop cock out of the wall which 
controls the water to the toilet or are you talking about the fittings inside 
the toilet tank?

If the valve on the wall, the stop cock, it is probably soldered to the pipe 
sticking out of the wall and you will damage it and the pipes trying to remove 
it with a wrench. Only compression fittings will disconnect that way.

More likely, if it is leaking you need to remove the valve stem and replace a 
washer inside there and possibly the packing, probably a small rubber 'O' ring 
along with a touch of plumbers grease.If it isn't leaking while shut off then 
there is no need to change the valve. It has to be the stem packing or the 
connection on down stream to the tank.





  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney 
  To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 6:16 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank


Aloha all,
  This is a bit of a long story, but I'm venting along the way.

  Well, my first mistake was telling he who knows everything that I 
  was going to replace the supply-line valve on the toilet because it 
  was leaking. Not a big deal, just get the spare one out of the 
  storage room and replace it.

  He wanted to be so helpful, so he went to the storage room and said, 
  Gosh, there doesn't seem to be one. You must have used it on the 
  kitchen sink when you put the new faucet in and forgot to get another.

  I knew we had purchased two for that job and there was another one, 
  but I had to go to another island the next day, so just shut the 
  water off to the toilet and decided to deal with it later. While I 
  was away, he went to the store and reported that there were so many 
  different ones, he didn't know what to buy. When I got back I found 
  the one we already had and he ran off to the bathroom to be the hero 
  and replace the valve. In the process, he managed to shove hard 
  enough on the tank that it broke the seal between the tank and the 
  bowl. He tried to convince me that it had been leaking from there all 
  the time as the water was running down between the tank and the bowl. 
  Yeah, right!!

  So, I know nothing about that seal between the tank and the bowl. It 
  is an American Standard. I'm not sure how old it is, but I've been 
  here 12 years, and it was here awhile before I moved in. Any 
  suggestions are much appreciated. Oh, and by the way, he did not 
  manage to get the old valve off and it is soaking with liquid wrench. 
  fortunately, we have two bathrooms.
  Betsy

  Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank

2009-10-24 Thread Lee A. Stone


May I ask Betsy. when you say going to the other island is this by 
boat , ferry or float plane?  as for your toilet issues I am  or have 
delat with something similar but a diffeent problem with  my other 
half.  oh yes I did that  and  . well  disasters  insued.  Lee


On Sat, 
Oct 24, 2009 at 
12:16:18PM -1000, Betsy Whitney wrote:
 Aloha all,
 This is a bit of a long story, but I'm venting along the way.
 
 Well, my first mistake was telling he who knows everything that I 
 was going to replace the supply-line valve on the toilet because it 
 was leaking. Not a big deal, just get the spare one out of the 
 storage room and replace it.
 
 He wanted to be so helpful, so he went to the storage room and said, 
 Gosh, there doesn't seem to be one. You must have used it on the 
 kitchen sink when you put the new faucet in and forgot to get another.
 
 I knew we had purchased two for that job and there was another one, 
 but I had to go to another island the next day, so just shut the 
 water off to the toilet and decided to deal with it later. While I 
 was away, he went to the store and reported that there were so many 
 different ones, he didn't know what to buy. When I got back I found 
 the one we already had and he ran off to the bathroom to be the hero 
 and replace the valve. In the process, he managed to shove hard 
 enough on the tank that it broke the seal between the tank and the 
 bowl. He tried to convince me that it had been leaking from there all 
 the time as the water was running down between the tank and the bowl. 
 Yeah, right!!
 
 So, I know nothing about that seal between the tank and the bowl. It 
 is an American Standard. I'm not sure how old it is, but I've been 
 here 12 years, and it was here awhile before I moved in. Any 
 suggestions are much appreciated. Oh, and by the way, he did not 
 manage to get the old valve off and it is soaking with liquid wrench. 
 fortunately, we have two bathrooms.
 Betsy
 
 
 
 Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.
 

-- 
Operator, please trace this call and tell me where I am.
.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank

Hi Lee,
Actually, we hop a jet plane. When you live in the islands like this, 
jumping on a plane is like busses in the continental U.S. Most of the 
time my trips are paid for by the people I either volunteer with, 
such as boards, or by customers who need me to consult with them 
about their alternate format materials, onsite. Usually, I fly to 
Honolulu. It takes about 40 minutes and costs about $150 roundtrip. 
When I first moved here in 1990, it was $36 roundtrip.

At 01:26 PM 10/24/2009, you wrote:



May I ask Betsy. when you say going to the other island is this by
boat , ferry or float plane? as for your toilet issues I am or have
delat with something similar but a diffeent problem with my other
half.  oh yes I did that and . well disasters insued. Lee

On Sat,
Oct 24, 2009 at
12:16:18PM -1000, Betsy Whitney wrote:
  Aloha all,
  This is a bit of a long story, but I'm venting along the way.
 
  Well, my first mistake was telling he who knows everything that I
  was going to replace the supply-line valve on the toilet because it
  was leaking. Not a big deal, just get the spare one out of the
  storage room and replace it.
 
  He wanted to be so helpful, so he went to the storage room and said,
  Gosh, there doesn't seem to be one. You must have used it on the
  kitchen sink when you put the new faucet in and forgot to get another.
 
  I knew we had purchased two for that job and there was another one,
  but I had to go to another island the next day, so just shut the
  water off to the toilet and decided to deal with it later. While I
  was away, he went to the store and reported that there were so many
  different ones, he didn't know what to buy. When I got back I found
  the one we already had and he ran off to the bathroom to be the hero
  and replace the valve. In the process, he managed to shove hard
  enough on the tank that it broke the seal between the tank and the
  bowl. He tried to convince me that it had been leaking from there all
  the time as the water was running down between the tank and the bowl.
  Yeah, right!!
 
  So, I know nothing about that seal between the tank and the bowl. It
  is an American Standard. I'm not sure how old it is, but I've been
  here 12 years, and it was here awhile before I moved in. Any
  suggestions are much appreciated. Oh, and by the way, he did not
  manage to get the old valve off and it is soaking with liquid wrench.
  fortunately, we have two bathrooms.
  Betsy
 
 
 
  Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.
 

--
Operator, please trace this call and tell me where I am.
.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank

Aloha Dale,
Oi, it is the stop cock, and it was reported to me, that there was no 
screw in the middle of the handle to remove. Hmm, I looked after 
reading your email, and there is a screw, which I have removed and 
replaced the washer. I'll be going to home depot tomorrow to get the
replacement ring to reconnect the tank and the stool, and will try to 
remove the bolts and supply line nut before I go in case I have to 
get replacements.
You guys are the best...

At 12:39 PM 10/24/2009, you wrote:


A few things.

1) There will be a couple of bolts hanging down under the back of 
the stool. These come through the bottom of the tank. If they are 
not too rusted they should remove and allow you to lift the tank. 
They don't want to be too tight or they will crack the porcelain 
tank or the stool.

There is also a nut which holds the supply line to the float valve 
apparatus inside the tank too. It needs to be removed. The tank will 
then lift off of the stool.

There will be a rubber ring, more recently it is usually made of 
neoprene foam of some sort which is tapered and fits between the 
tank and the stool. You will want to empty the tank fully before 
disassembling the tank from the stool and take care when 
reassembling not to tighten the tank to the stool so tightly as to crack them.

2) Now, the valve. Are you talking about the stop cock out of the 
wall which controls the water to the toilet or are you talking about 
the fittings inside the toilet tank?

If the valve on the wall, the stop cock, it is probably soldered to 
the pipe sticking out of the wall and you will damage it and the 
pipes trying to remove it with a wrench. Only compression fittings 
will disconnect that way.

More likely, if it is leaking you need to remove the valve stem and 
replace a washer inside there and possibly the packing, probably a 
small rubber 'O' ring along with a touch of plumbers grease.If it 
isn't leaking while shut off then there is no need to change the 
valve. It has to be the stem packing or the connection on down 
stream to the tank.

- Original Message -
From: Betsy Whitney
To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 6:16 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank

Aloha all,
This is a bit of a long story, but I'm venting along the way.

Well, my first mistake was telling he who knows everything that I
was going to replace the supply-line valve on the toilet because it
was leaking. Not a big deal, just get the spare one out of the
storage room and replace it.

He wanted to be so helpful, so he went to the storage room and said,
Gosh, there doesn't seem to be one. You must have used it on the
kitchen sink when you put the new faucet in and forgot to get another.

I knew we had purchased two for that job and there was another one,
but I had to go to another island the next day, so just shut the
water off to the toilet and decided to deal with it later. While I
was away, he went to the store and reported that there were so many
different ones, he didn't know what to buy. When I got back I found
the one we already had and he ran off to the bathroom to be the hero
and replace the valve. In the process, he managed to shove hard
enough on the tank that it broke the seal between the tank and the
bowl. He tried to convince me that it had been leaking from there all
the time as the water was running down between the tank and the bowl.
Yeah, right!!

So, I know nothing about that seal between the tank and the bowl. It
is an American Standard. I'm not sure how old it is, but I've been
here 12 years, and it was here awhile before I moved in. Any
suggestions are much appreciated. Oh, and by the way, he did not
manage to get the old valve off and it is soaking with liquid wrench.
fortunately, we have two bathrooms.
Betsy

Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry

2009-10-24 Thread wstephan

Well folks, as the subject line indicates I've been trying to fix a leaking or 
running toilet today.  So far the lads at the hardware store, you know, the one 
that's a mile from my house on foot and a mile bac, have sold me two flappers, 
one which I broke because the ears wouldn't fit my toilet, and one that fits so 
poorly the toilet refills every 30 seconds or so. 
I'm usually pretty easy to get along with when it comes to people making 
mistakes, but I was a little unhappy, so called the manager of the place after 
the second flapper didn't work.  I was explaining my unhappiness to her, and 
she said she was truly sorry but that the place had just been held up at 
gunpoint and they were dealing with the police and could I come in tomorrow.  
So what could I say. 

Anyway, then I started switching flappers and have two out of three toilets 
working, however, when I press the flush handle, the flapper wants to seat 
itself before the tank empties.  Can some of you folks give me some pointers?  
Do I need to put some kind of small floats on the chains close to the flappers? 
 The old one that I replaced did have a chunk of cork or something similar on 
the chain, but the replacement flappers don't have anything like that on the 
chains that came with them.  The flappers are hollow rubber if that helps the 
diagnosis. 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions. 

Bill Stephan 
Kansas Citty MO 
Email: wstep...@everestkc.net 
Phone: (816)803-2469

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank

Hi,

Depending on the supply line, you might like to buy a new one, they make a sort 
of braded hose now to run between the stop cock and the underside of the toilet 
tank. They have the nuts already in place and being a flexible hose they make 
connection really easy and convenient.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 8:03 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank


Aloha Dale,
  Oi, it is the stop cock, and it was reported to me, that there was no 
  screw in the middle of the handle to remove. Hmm, I looked after 
  reading your email, and there is a screw, which I have removed and 
  replaced the washer. I'll be going to home depot tomorrow to get the
  replacement ring to reconnect the tank and the stool, and will try to 
  remove the bolts and supply line nut before I go in case I have to 
  get replacements.
  You guys are the best...

  At 12:39 PM 10/24/2009, you wrote:
  
  
  A few things.
  
  1) There will be a couple of bolts hanging down under the back of 
  the stool. These come through the bottom of the tank. If they are 
  not too rusted they should remove and allow you to lift the tank. 
  They don't want to be too tight or they will crack the porcelain 
  tank or the stool.
  
  There is also a nut which holds the supply line to the float valve 
  apparatus inside the tank too. It needs to be removed. The tank will 
  then lift off of the stool.
  
  There will be a rubber ring, more recently it is usually made of 
  neoprene foam of some sort which is tapered and fits between the 
  tank and the stool. You will want to empty the tank fully before 
  disassembling the tank from the stool and take care when 
  reassembling not to tighten the tank to the stool so tightly as to crack 
them.
  
  2) Now, the valve. Are you talking about the stop cock out of the 
  wall which controls the water to the toilet or are you talking about 
  the fittings inside the toilet tank?
  
  If the valve on the wall, the stop cock, it is probably soldered to 
  the pipe sticking out of the wall and you will damage it and the 
  pipes trying to remove it with a wrench. Only compression fittings 
  will disconnect that way.
  
  More likely, if it is leaking you need to remove the valve stem and 
  replace a washer inside there and possibly the packing, probably a 
  small rubber 'O' ring along with a touch of plumbers grease.If it 
  isn't leaking while shut off then there is no need to change the 
  valve. It has to be the stem packing or the connection on down 
  stream to the tank.
  
  - Original Message -
  From: Betsy Whitney
  To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 6:16 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank
  
  Aloha all,
  This is a bit of a long story, but I'm venting along the way.
  
  Well, my first mistake was telling he who knows everything that I
  was going to replace the supply-line valve on the toilet because it
  was leaking. Not a big deal, just get the spare one out of the
  storage room and replace it.
  
  He wanted to be so helpful, so he went to the storage room and said,
  Gosh, there doesn't seem to be one. You must have used it on the
  kitchen sink when you put the new faucet in and forgot to get another.
  
  I knew we had purchased two for that job and there was another one,
  but I had to go to another island the next day, so just shut the
  water off to the toilet and decided to deal with it later. While I
  was away, he went to the store and reported that there were so many
  different ones, he didn't know what to buy. When I got back I found
  the one we already had and he ran off to the bathroom to be the hero
  and replace the valve. In the process, he managed to shove hard
  enough on the tank that it broke the seal between the tank and the
  bowl. He tried to convince me that it had been leaking from there all
  the time as the water was running down between the tank and the bowl.
  Yeah, right!!
  
  So, I know nothing about that seal between the tank and the bowl. It
  is an American Standard. I'm not sure how old it is, but I've been
  here 12 years, and it was here awhile before I moved in. Any
  suggestions are much appreciated. Oh, and by the way, he did not
  manage to get the old valve off and it is soaking with liquid wrench.
  fortunately, we have two bathrooms.
  Betsy
  
  Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.
  
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry

Try adjusting the chain so it pulls the flapper up a little higher. This causes 
water to tip out of the flapper so it takes a little longer to settle down onto 
the seat.

You might try wiping around the surface of the flapper seat with a rag too. 
Sometimes it collects slime and such which interferes with a good seal. 
Similarly, old rubber on those flappers sometimes gets hard or stiff or 
otherwise deforms and that can interfere with the seal.

Hope this helps.


  - Original Message - 
  From: wstep...@everestkc.net 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 9:27 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry


Well folks, as the subject line indicates I've been trying to fix a leaking 
or running toilet today. So far the lads at the hardware store, you know, the 
one that's a mile from my house on foot and a mile bac, have sold me two 
flappers, one which I broke because the ears wouldn't fit my toilet, and one 
that fits so poorly the toilet refills every 30 seconds or so. 
  I'm usually pretty easy to get along with when it comes to people making 
mistakes, but I was a little unhappy, so called the manager of the place after 
the second flapper didn't work. I was explaining my unhappiness to her, and she 
said she was truly sorry but that the place had just been held up at gunpoint 
and they were dealing with the police and could I come in tomorrow. So what 
could I say. 

  Anyway, then I started switching flappers and have two out of three toilets 
working, however, when I press the flush handle, the flapper wants to seat 
itself before the tank empties. Can some of you folks give me some pointers? Do 
I need to put some kind of small floats on the chains close to the flappers? 
The old one that I replaced did have a chunk of cork or something similar on 
the chain, but the replacement flappers don't have anything like that on the 
chains that came with them. The flappers are hollow rubber if that helps the 
diagnosis. 

  Thanks in advance for any suggestions. 

  Bill Stephan 
  Kansas Citty MO 
  Email: wstep...@everestkc.net 
  Phone: (816)803-2469


  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry

2009-10-24 Thread jim

hi is your toilet an older one or new?
the newer ones have heaver flappers so they only flush half at a time.
if you want a full flush you have to hold it down.
it saves water you know.
jim in minnesota


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry

Aloha Bill,
The two toilets that I have are different in the way that the chain 
or plastic strip that goes from the flapper to the handle connect. 
However, on both of them, it is possible to adjust the length of the 
chain. Mine has a little hook that goes through the chain, so if it 
is too long, you just move the little hook to the link in the chain 
that is closer to the flapper. It may take a couple of tries, but I 
think you'll get it soon.
Betsy
At 03:27 PM 10/24/2009, you wrote:


Well folks, as the subject line indicates I've been trying to fix a 
leaking or running toilet today. So far the lads at the hardware 
store, you know, the one that's a mile from my house on foot and a 
mile bac, have sold me two flappers, one which I broke because the 
ears wouldn't fit my toilet, and one that fits so poorly the toilet 
refills every 30 seconds or so.
I'm usually pretty easy to get along with when it comes to people 
making mistakes, but I was a little unhappy, so called the manager 
of the place after the second flapper didn't work. I was explaining 
my unhappiness to her, and she said she was truly sorry but that the 
place had just been held up at gunpoint and they were dealing with 
the police and could I come in tomorrow. So what could I say.

Anyway, then I started switching flappers and have two out of three 
toilets working, however, when I press the flush handle, the flapper 
wants to seat itself before the tank empties. Can some of you folks 
give me some pointers? Do I need to put some kind of small floats on 
the chains close to the flappers? The old one that I replaced did 
have a chunk of cork or something similar on the chain, but the 
replacement flappers don't have anything like that on the chains 
that came with them. The flappers are hollow rubber if that helps 
the diagnosis.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Bill Stephan
Kansas Citty MO
Email: mailto:wstephan%40everestkc.netwstep...@everestkc.net
Phone: (816)803-2469



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank

Yes, that is what I have. It was replaced on general principles when 
the toilet was pulled to put in flooring.

At 03:52 PM 10/24/2009, you wrote:


Hi,

Depending on the supply line, you might like to buy a new one, they 
make a sort of braded hose now to run between the stop cock and the 
underside of the toilet tank. They have the nuts already in place 
and being a flexible hose they make connection really easy and convenient.

- Original Message -
From: Betsy Whitney
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank

Aloha Dale,
Oi, it is the stop cock, and it was reported to me, that there was no
screw in the middle of the handle to remove. Hmm, I looked after
reading your email, and there is a screw, which I have removed and
replaced the washer. I'll be going to home depot tomorrow to get the
replacement ring to reconnect the tank and the stool, and will try to
remove the bolts and supply line nut before I go in case I have to
get replacements.
You guys are the best...

At 12:39 PM 10/24/2009, you wrote:
 
 
 A few things.
 
 1) There will be a couple of bolts hanging down under the back of
 the stool. These come through the bottom of the tank. If they are
 not too rusted they should remove and allow you to lift the tank.
 They don't want to be too tight or they will crack the porcelain
 tank or the stool.
 
 There is also a nut which holds the supply line to the float valve
 apparatus inside the tank too. It needs to be removed. The tank will
 then lift off of the stool.
 
 There will be a rubber ring, more recently it is usually made of
 neoprene foam of some sort which is tapered and fits between the
 tank and the stool. You will want to empty the tank fully before
 disassembling the tank from the stool and take care when
 reassembling not to tighten the tank to the stool so tightly as to 
 crack them.
 
 2) Now, the valve. Are you talking about the stop cock out of the
 wall which controls the water to the toilet or are you talking about
 the fittings inside the toilet tank?
 
 If the valve on the wall, the stop cock, it is probably soldered to
 the pipe sticking out of the wall and you will damage it and the
 pipes trying to remove it with a wrench. Only compression fittings
 will disconnect that way.
 
 More likely, if it is leaking you need to remove the valve stem and
 replace a washer inside there and possibly the packing, probably a
 small rubber 'O' ring along with a touch of plumbers grease.If it
 isn't leaking while shut off then there is no need to change the
 valve. It has to be the stem packing or the connection on down
 stream to the tank.
 
 - Original Message -
 From: Betsy Whitney
 To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 6:16 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank
 
 Aloha all,
 This is a bit of a long story, but I'm venting along the way.
 
 Well, my first mistake was telling he who knows everything that I
 was going to replace the supply-line valve on the toilet because it
 was leaking. Not a big deal, just get the spare one out of the
 storage room and replace it.
 
 He wanted to be so helpful, so he went to the storage room and said,
 Gosh, there doesn't seem to be one. You must have used it on the
 kitchen sink when you put the new faucet in and forgot to get another.
 
 I knew we had purchased two for that job and there was another one,
 but I had to go to another island the next day, so just shut the
 water off to the toilet and decided to deal with it later. While I
 was away, he went to the store and reported that there were so many
 different ones, he didn't know what to buy. When I got back I found
 the one we already had and he ran off to the bathroom to be the hero
 and replace the valve. In the process, he managed to shove hard
 enough on the tank that it broke the seal between the tank and the
 bowl. He tried to convince me that it had been leaking from there all
 the time as the water was running down between the tank and the bowl.
 Yeah, right!!
 
 So, I know nothing about that seal between the tank and the bowl. It
 is an American Standard. I'm not sure how old it is, but I've been
 here 12 years, and it was here awhile before I moved in. Any
 suggestions are much appreciated. Oh, and by the way, he did not
 manage to get the old valve off and it is soaking with liquid wrench.
 fortunately, we have two bathrooms.
 Betsy
 
 Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank

Well, you shouldn't need to soak the connection to the shut off.  Those don't 
require much force to tighten or loosen.  

Unfortunately, the other seal you need to replace will be a bit harder to get 
apart.  

You will need to empty the tank completely.  Hold the flush valve until you 
don't hear any more water running through the flapper valve.  Then you'll need 
to use a sponge to soak up the rest of the water in the tank.  I just ring out 
the sponge into the bowl.  

There will be either 2 or 3 screws, depending on the model, holding the tank to 
the bowl.  Inside the tank there will be a screw head with a straight slot in 
the head.  

On the outside of the tank there will be a nut on each screw.  They have to 
come apart in order to separate the 2 pieces.  When the unit is older, I 
usually end up cutting the screws rather than fight with them.  I take a hack 
saw blade and wrap one end with some sort of heavy duty tape.  My new favorite 
is Gorilla tape, but any kind will work.  It's only to protect your hand.  Make 
your cut in the area between the tank and the bowl unit.

Once the tank is loose, the seal you are talking about is on the bottom of the 
tank.  It fits over the end of the flapper valve assembly.  So if you're going 
to this much effort, might as well get a toilet rebuild kit.  That comes with a 
new flapper valve, the rubber washer that goes between the tank and the flapper 
valve.  A plastic nut holds the valve in place.

The kit will also have 2 screws, rubber washers for the screws, flat metal 
washers that go on under the head of the screws, ahead of the rubber washers.  
Then there will usually be a couple more flat metal washers, and nuts to go on 
the screws.  

I like to dry off the inside of the tank, and put silicone grease on the 
washers before pushing the screw through the bottom of the tank.  If you have 
silicone sealer around, that works great for stopping any leaks through those 
holes.

Finally the seal you are having trouble with goes on the threaded part of the 
flapper valve and the tank can be set back where it came from.  Tighten the 
nuts on the screws, not real crazy tight,  and you're done.  

BTW, the supply line to the toilet won't fit the sink.  Different size threads. 
 Now go grab your tools and show him who knows the most about toilet repairs!  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney 
  To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 6:16 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Loose toilet tank


Aloha all,
  This is a bit of a long story, but I'm venting along the way.

  Well, my first mistake was telling he who knows everything that I 
  was going to replace the supply-line valve on the toilet because it 
  was leaking. Not a big deal, just get the spare one out of the 
  storage room and replace it.

  He wanted to be so helpful, so he went to the storage room and said, 
  Gosh, there doesn't seem to be one. You must have used it on the 
  kitchen sink when you put the new faucet in and forgot to get another.

  I knew we had purchased two for that job and there was another one, 
  but I had to go to another island the next day, so just shut the 
  water off to the toilet and decided to deal with it later. While I 
  was away, he went to the store and reported that there were so many 
  different ones, he didn't know what to buy. When I got back I found 
  the one we already had and he ran off to the bathroom to be the hero 
  and replace the valve. In the process, he managed to shove hard 
  enough on the tank that it broke the seal between the tank and the 
  bowl. He tried to convince me that it had been leaking from there all 
  the time as the water was running down between the tank and the bowl. 
  Yeah, right!!

  So, I know nothing about that seal between the tank and the bowl. It 
  is an American Standard. I'm not sure how old it is, but I've been 
  here 12 years, and it was here awhile before I moved in. Any 
  suggestions are much appreciated. Oh, and by the way, he did not 
  manage to get the old valve off and it is soaking with liquid wrench. 
  fortunately, we have two bathrooms.
  Betsy

  Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry

You will either have a rubber string looking strap or a chain coming from the 
top of the flapper valve.  Usually when the valve wants to shut early, there is 
too much slack in the chain or strap.  Try taking out some more of the slack 
where it goes through the flush rod on the crank.  It should be tight enough 
that you can't hardly move the lever before you hear water starting to drain.  

  - Original Message - 
  From: wstep...@everestkc.net 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 9:27 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry

Well folks, as the subject line indicates I've been trying to fix a leaking 
or running toilet today. So far the lads at the hardware store, you know, the 
one that's a mile from my house on foot and a mile bac, have sold me two 
flappers, one which I broke because the ears wouldn't fit my toilet, and one 
that fits so poorly the toilet refills every 30 seconds or so. 
  I'm usually pretty easy to get along with when it comes to people making 
mistakes, but I was a little unhappy, so called the manager of the place after 
the second flapper didn't work. I was explaining my unhappiness to her, and she 
said she was truly sorry but that the place had just been held up at gunpoint 
and they were dealing with the police and could I come in tomorrow. So what 
could I say. 

  Anyway, then I started switching flappers and have two out of three toilets 
working, however, when I press the flush handle, the flapper wants to seat 
itself before the tank empties. Can some of you folks give me some pointers? Do 
I need to put some kind of small floats on the chains close to the flappers? 
The old one that I replaced did have a chunk of cork or something similar on 
the chain, but the replacement flappers don't have anything like that on the 
chains that came with them. The flappers are hollow rubber if that helps the 
diagnosis. 

  Thanks in advance for any suggestions. 

  Bill Stephan 
  Kansas Citty MO 
  Email: wstep...@everestkc.net 
  Phone: (816)803-2469

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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