[BlindHandyMan] Re:Torx screw manufacture's information

[Gil Laster]

The Home Depot now sells "DECKMATE" brand deck screws, with the star socket 
head, and a shank narrower than the screw.  I bought 1-pound of 2" screws for 
$8.80.  A star bit comes in the box.  It was a real pleasure driving the screws 
in without the bit slipping in the screw head as the phillips head screws are 
prone to do.

- Gil Laster, Charlotte, NC

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

[Ron Yearns]

I might suggest a small tarp just to keep the dirt, leaves and blown rain off 
it.  I would run it a minimum of once a month.  We set the generators at the 
University to run 15 minutes every week.  But of course they were on a 
programmed clock and were a little more critical.  That generator does have 
multi viscoty oil in it for cold weather starting doesn't it?
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 3:35 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question



  So, I finally got the 10 gauge extension cord, the oil, the gas, the gas
  stabilizer etc. for my 3.5KW generator from Aldis. I tested it yesterday
  and things worked fine, it runs off an engine with a cast iron block, so
  it's not nearly as noisy as I expected.

  Our house has a set of steap concrete stairs leading from the backyard down
  to a foyer with a door into the basement. This foyer is sheltered, and
  there's actually a sort of awning or canapee that prevents water from
  running down into it. There happens to be a cat door in the connecting
  door, so my plan is to run the generator in that outdoor foyer, run the
  cables through the cat door and inhabit the basement if things get dicey. 

  So, my question is this: Can I store a generator like this over the long
  term in the kind of sheltered foyer I've described? I could conceivably,
  easily enough wheel the thing on a hand truck and keep it in the basement
  proper and move it when I need to, but I'm superstitious about having four
  or so gallons of gas stored right under the living room. Would you guys
  suggest running this every month or so?

  Thanks for any ideas on this one.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

[William Stephan]

I'm on it Bob, thanks again.   

 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 18:02
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

 

  

I wouldn't haul it around because they are often heavy and usually clumsy.
You won't hurt anything but fuel or oil sloshing around. If there is a
chance rain or snow could end up on it I'd sure drape a tarp over it. And as
a matter of prevention, it won't hurt to spray your favorite brand of
lubricant around any linkage. When the linkage gets rust on it, things don't
work like they should... 

If you haven't already, you can build a sort of cart for it. I have mine on
4 wheels because I got tired of having to move it. Without wheels, I could
never pick a good place to leave it. Now I don't have to worry. 

I can't say about air movement, thus exhaust. But fire it up with the cords
through the opening and see what you notice. I've had carbon monoxide
poisoning a couple times before. It's nothing to mess with. Run the engine
and if you are able to smell fumes in the house, you'll have to try
something else. Don't worry, you'll smell the exhaust way before you'll be
poisoned. But once you smell the exhaust, don't wait for the other... 

- Original Message - 
From: William Stephan 
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 5:40 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

Bob, thanks. 

I haven't owned or work with one of these in many years, so I'm interested
in why you wouldn't haul the thing around much. Is moving it around likely
to cause the fuel to slop around a lot, or the generator or engine oil to
slop?

I think I've got enough ventilation, but here's the configuration.

The foyer is right outside a fairly tight door, I'm not real sure what it's
made from. There is, as I said, a cat door in this door which would be open
enough to accommodate a couple extension cords. 

If you were to open the door from the basement and turn left, you'd be
facing a flight of stairs with no cover or anything. To your left would be
a solid wall, part of the exterior of the house. On your right would be a
solid concrete wall about six or seven feet high opening onto the yard
itself. To the rear would be a similar wall. The foyer itself is maybe
three feet square, and air seems to flow down into it pretty well.

Would it be good to put a tarp on the generator when not in use, or might
that cause buildup of fuums?

Thanks for any help with this it's more of a problem than I thought it was
going to be.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@ 
yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
 yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 15:45
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

I don't think I'd haul it around a lot. You can leave it where it is as long
as it is out of the weather. 

If you are using stabilizer you shouldn't have to start it often. But if you
can run it once a month for 5 or 10 minutes that won't be a bad thing. This
storage area does have a way to vent the exhaust? Right? Otherwise you'll
have a real problem when you run it... 

If you have any concerns about the exhaust, you can remove the muffler and
make up an extension pipe to put the muffler outside. Typically, if you are
at 10 HP or above, you'll use a piece of 3/4 pipe which can thread right
into the block. I've had to make these extensions up for people that wanted
a generator in their motor homes. 

- Original Message - 
From: William Stephan 
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 4:35 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

So, I finally got the 10 gauge extension cord, the oil, the gas, the gas
stabilizer etc. for my 3.5KW generator from Aldis. I tested it yesterday
and things worked fine, it runs off an engine with a cast iron block, so
it's not nearly as noisy as I expected.

Our house has a set of steap concrete stairs leading from the backyard down
to a foyer with a door into the basement. This foyer is sheltered, and
there's actually a sort of awning or canapee that prevents water from
running down into it. There happens to be a cat door in the connecting
door, so my plan is to run the generator in that outdoor foyer, run the
cables through the cat door and inhabit the basement if things get dicey. 

So, my question is this: Can I store a generator like this over the long
term in the kind of sheltered foyer I've described? I could conceivably,
easily enough wheel the thing on a hand truck and keep it in the basement
proper and move it when I need to, but I'm 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

[Bob Kennedy]

I wouldn't haul it around because they are often heavy and usually clumsy.  You 
won't hurt anything but fuel or oil sloshing around.  If there is a chance rain 
or snow could end up on it I'd sure drape a tarp over it.  And as a matter of 
prevention, it won't hurt to spray your favorite brand of lubricant around any 
linkage.  When the linkage gets rust on it, things don't work like they 
should...  

If you haven't already, you can build a sort of cart for it.  I have mine on 4 
wheels because I got tired of having to move it.  Without wheels, I could never 
pick a good place to leave it.  Now I don't have to worry.  

I can't say about air movement, thus exhaust.  But fire it up with the cords 
through the opening and see what you notice.  I've had carbon monoxide 
poisoning a couple times before.  It's nothing to mess with.  Run the engine 
and if you are able to smell fumes in the house, you'll have to try something 
else.  Don't worry, you'll smell the exhaust way before you'll be poisoned.  
But once you smell the exhaust, don't wait for the other...  


  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 5:40 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question



  Bob, thanks. 

  I haven't owned or work with one of these in many years, so I'm interested
  in why you wouldn't haul the thing around much. Is moving it around likely
  to cause the fuel to slop around a lot, or the generator or engine oil to
  slop?

  I think I've got enough ventilation, but here's the configuration.

  The foyer is right outside a fairly tight door, I'm not real sure what it's
  made from. There is, as I said, a cat door in this door which would be open
  enough to accommodate a couple extension cords. 

  If you were to open the door from the basement and turn left, you'd be
  facing a flight of stairs with no cover or anything. To your left would be
  a solid wall, part of the exterior of the house. On your right would be a
  solid concrete wall about six or seven feet high opening onto the yard
  itself. To the rear would be a similar wall. The foyer itself is maybe
  three feet square, and air seems to flow down into it pretty well.

  Would it be good to put a tarp on the generator when not in use, or might
  that cause buildup of fuums?

  Thanks for any help with this it's more of a problem than I thought it was
  going to be.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 15:45
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

  I don't think I'd haul it around a lot. You can leave it where it is as long
  as it is out of the weather. 

  If you are using stabilizer you shouldn't have to start it often. But if you
  can run it once a month for 5 or 10 minutes that won't be a bad thing. This
  storage area does have a way to vent the exhaust? Right? Otherwise you'll
  have a real problem when you run it... 

  If you have any concerns about the exhaust, you can remove the muffler and
  make up an extension pipe to put the muffler outside. Typically, if you are
  at 10 HP or above, you'll use a piece of 3/4 pipe which can thread right
  into the block. I've had to make these extensions up for people that wanted
  a generator in their motor homes. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 4:35 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

  So, I finally got the 10 gauge extension cord, the oil, the gas, the gas
  stabilizer etc. for my 3.5KW generator from Aldis. I tested it yesterday
  and things worked fine, it runs off an engine with a cast iron block, so
  it's not nearly as noisy as I expected.

  Our house has a set of steap concrete stairs leading from the backyard down
  to a foyer with a door into the basement. This foyer is sheltered, and
  there's actually a sort of awning or canapee that prevents water from
  running down into it. There happens to be a cat door in the connecting
  door, so my plan is to run the generator in that outdoor foyer, run the
  cables through the cat door and inhabit the basement if things get dicey. 

  So, my question is this: Can I store a generator like this over the long
  term in the kind of sheltered foyer I've described? I could conceivably,
  easily enough wheel the thing on a hand truck and keep it in the basement
  proper and move it when I need to, but I'm superstitious about having four
  or so gallons of gas stored right under the living room. Would you guys
  suggest running this every month or so?

  Thanks for any ideas on this one.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text po

RE: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

[William Stephan]

Bob, thanks.  

I haven't owned or work with one of these in many years, so I'm interested
in why you wouldn't haul the thing around much.  Is moving it around likely
to cause the fuel to slop around a lot, or the generator or engine oil to
slop?

 

I think I've got enough ventilation, but here's the configuration.

The foyer is right outside a fairly tight door, I'm not real sure what it's
made from.  There is, as I said, a cat door in this door which would be open
enough to accommodate a couple extension cords.  

 

If you were to open the door from the basement and turn left, you'd be
facing a flight of stairs with no cover or anything.  To your left would be
a solid wall, part of the exterior of the house.   On your right would be a
solid concrete wall about six or seven feet high opening onto the yard
itself.  To the rear would be a similar wall.  The foyer itself is maybe
three feet square, and air seems to flow down into it pretty well.

 

Would it be good to put a tarp on the generator when not in use, or might
that cause buildup of fuums?

Thanks for any help with this it's more of a problem than I thought it was
going to be.

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 15:45
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

 

  

I don't think I'd haul it around a lot. You can leave it where it is as long
as it is out of the weather. 

If you are using stabilizer you shouldn't have to start it often. But if you
can run it once a month for 5 or 10 minutes that won't be a bad thing. This
storage area does have a way to vent the exhaust? Right? Otherwise you'll
have a real problem when you run it... 

If you have any concerns about the exhaust, you can remove the muffler and
make up an extension pipe to put the muffler outside. Typically, if you are
at 10 HP or above, you'll use a piece of 3/4 pipe which can thread right
into the block. I've had to make these extensions up for people that wanted
a generator in their motor homes. 

- Original Message - 
From: William Stephan 
To: blindhandyman@  yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 4:35 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

So, I finally got the 10 gauge extension cord, the oil, the gas, the gas
stabilizer etc. for my 3.5KW generator from Aldis. I tested it yesterday
and things worked fine, it runs off an engine with a cast iron block, so
it's not nearly as noisy as I expected.

Our house has a set of steap concrete stairs leading from the backyard down
to a foyer with a door into the basement. This foyer is sheltered, and
there's actually a sort of awning or canapee that prevents water from
running down into it. There happens to be a cat door in the connecting
door, so my plan is to run the generator in that outdoor foyer, run the
cables through the cat door and inhabit the basement if things get dicey. 

So, my question is this: Can I store a generator like this over the long
term in the kind of sheltered foyer I've described? I could conceivably,
easily enough wheel the thing on a hand truck and keep it in the basement
proper and move it when I need to, but I'm superstitious about having four
or so gallons of gas stored right under the living room. Would you guys
suggest running this every month or so?

Thanks for any ideas on this one.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

[Bob Kennedy]

I don't think I'd haul it around a lot.  You can leave it where it is as long 
as it is out of the weather.  

If you are using stabilizer you shouldn't have to start it often.  But if you 
can run it once a month for 5 or 10 minutes that won't be a bad thing.  This 
storage area does have a way to vent the exhaust?  Right?  Otherwise you'll 
have a real problem when you run it...  

If you have any concerns about the exhaust, you can remove the muffler and make 
up an extension pipe to put the muffler outside.  Typically, if you are at 10 
HP or above, you'll use a piece of 3/4 pipe which can thread right into the 
block.  I've had to make these extensions up for people that wanted a generator 
in their motor homes.  


  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 4:35 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question



  So, I finally got the 10 gauge extension cord, the oil, the gas, the gas
  stabilizer etc. for my 3.5KW generator from Aldis. I tested it yesterday
  and things worked fine, it runs off an engine with a cast iron block, so
  it's not nearly as noisy as I expected.

  Our house has a set of steap concrete stairs leading from the backyard down
  to a foyer with a door into the basement. This foyer is sheltered, and
  there's actually a sort of awning or canapee that prevents water from
  running down into it. There happens to be a cat door in the connecting
  door, so my plan is to run the generator in that outdoor foyer, run the
  cables through the cat door and inhabit the basement if things get dicey. 

  So, my question is this: Can I store a generator like this over the long
  term in the kind of sheltered foyer I've described? I could conceivably,
  easily enough wheel the thing on a hand truck and keep it in the basement
  proper and move it when I need to, but I'm superstitious about having four
  or so gallons of gas stored right under the living room. Would you guys
  suggest running this every month or so?

  Thanks for any ideas on this one.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

[William Stephan]

So, I finally got the 10 gauge extension cord, the oil, the gas, the gas
stabilizer etc. for my 3.5KW generator from Aldis.  I tested it yesterday
and things worked fine, it runs off an engine with a cast iron block, so
it's not nearly as noisy as I expected.

Our house has a set of steap concrete stairs leading from the backyard down
to a foyer with a door into the basement.  This foyer  is sheltered, and
there's actually a sort of awning or canapee  that prevents water from
running down into it.  There happens to be a cat door in the connecting
door, so my plan is to run the generator in that outdoor foyer, run the
cables through the cat door  and inhabit the basement if things get dicey.  

So, my question is this:  Can I store a generator like this over the long
term in the kind of sheltered foyer I've described?  I could conceivably,
easily enough wheel the thing on a hand truck and keep it in the basement
proper and move it when I need to, but I'm superstitious about having four
or so gallons of gas stored right under the living room.  Would you guys
suggest running this every month or so?

 

Thanks for any ideas on this one.

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] help cleaning gas logs

[Ron Yearns]

Note my ideas are from working on gas furnaces but I doubt there are many 
differences.  Does this thing have any pilot light or thermocouple?  Many logs 
are just hand light with a match but I think some of the newer are spark 
ignition with a pilot.  If it has such, does the burner never light, just some 
burn or what?  You may have a problem with these controls.  The thermal couple 
or flame sensor or sparker are the most likely culperts here.
For burner cleaning.
The way I have done it is to take a hacksaw blade.  Try to pick one that will 
just fit the groove in the burner and scratch out the carbon and rust.  If you 
need to use one smaller and put sandpaper around it.  When all the loose stuff 
is cut out use compressed air to blow all the loose stuff out.If after this 
some are burning different than others I would clean the orfices.  You will 
again have to remove the burners and screw the orfices out with a wrench.  Then 
with very fine wire Clean out the goonk from them.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Kevin Doucet 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 1:48 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] help cleaning gas logs



  Hi list,

  my friend's problem with the electrick heat continues but for now 
  they are using gas logs. They are not staying lit and the company 
  they purchass the propain from tells the logs probably need cleaning.

  What is envolved in cleaning gas logs?

  Thanks for your help.



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] How do I Clean gas logs

[Kevin Doucet]

Thanks, Ray for this help.
Another keeper for future reference as well as immediate help.


At 02:47 PM 12/28/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>Hi
>
>I have included a range of questions and answers about gas logs.
>
>How Do I Clean Gas Logs?
>If you desire, a good way to do some light cleaning on gas logs is to brush
>them with a soft-bristled brush or duster. You should not remove gas logs
>from the burner or from the fireplace. Scrubbing or using water or other
>solvents is not advisable, as these can remove the paint and bark texture.
>If you do brush your gas logs, be sure that they are at room temperature.
>
>What Is the Difference Between Vented Gas Logs and Ventless Gas Logs?
>The primary difference between vented gas logs and ventless gas logs is that
>ventless gas logs can be operated with the chimney damper closed, which
>keeps significantly more heat in your
>
>home. Ventless gas logs provide warmth before ambiance.
>
>Vented gas logs provide a flame that looks more similar to a wood fire
>flame, but the chimney damper must be opened during operation. Vented gas
>logs provide a more appealing flame and stronger ambient firelight.
>
>Why Buy a Gas Log?
>Gas logs deliver the warm and cozy ambiance of real fire in the fireplace
>without all the preparation, maintenance, and cleanup that real wood fires
>demand. Many people would love to have a real wood fire in the hearth after
>a long day, but time constraints make all the necessary work quite an
>ordeal. Gas logs eliminate the hassle.
>
>Gas logs provide stunning realism, warmth, ambiance and safety features that
>will put your mind at ease. Gas logs are also affordable to add to an
>existing fireplace or to install in ventless versions. You can also use a
>gas log as a back-up heating source during power failures because they
>require no electricity.
>
>What Type of Fuel Do I Use with Gas Logs?
>Gas logs are available for use with natural gas or with liquid propane.
>Natural gas logs are the most popular option and they typically generate
>more heat than liquid propane gas logs. Propane gas logs are generally used
>only in places where natural gas is not available.
>
>How Do I Get the Right Size Gas Log?
>You will need to measure your fireplace to get the right size gas log. Check
>the size of your fireplace, which you can determine by measuring the width,
>depth, and height. Gas logs should not fit too tightly along the side and
>back walls.
>
>How Much Do Gas Logs Cost to Install?
>There is no standard cost for installing gas logs. The cost of installing
>gas logs depends on the market, and varies with the particular job and
>installer. The degree of difficulty and the amount of time it takes to
>install the gas line and the gas log are the primary determinants of
>installation cost. It is highly recommended that you use only professionals
>who are certified to install gas logs.
>
>How Much Do Gas Logs Cost to Operate?
>The cost of operating gas logs again varies from market to market, depending
>on the cost of the gas itself. The BTU (British Thermal Unit) output of any
>given gas log determines how much fuel it will use. Contact your local gas
>company if you want specific information regarding current gas costs. If you
>provide them with the BTU information from your gas log, they should be able
>to calculate the cost of operation.
>
>Are the Flames on Gas Logs Adjustable?
>Whether or not a gas log has adjustable flame depends on the model.
>Typically, gas logs do not have adjustable flames. Look for rotary control
>valve options if you want a gas log with adjustable flames.
>
>What Are ANSI Standards, and How Do I Know If My Gas Log Meets Them?
>The ANSI is the American National Standards 
><http://www.ansi.org/>
>Institute, and they maintain strict standards for ventless gas logs and many
>other products. All the products we sell comply with the ANSI Standards for
>gas logs, standard Z 21.11.2.
>
>Can I Burn Wood Along with My Gas Log?
>No. Never attempt to supplement a gas log fire by adding anything, including
>wood, to a gas log. This creates additional heat that can damage gas logs
>and invalidate your warranty.
>
>Do I Need a Carbon Monoxide Detector with Gas Logs?
>Whether you have gas logs in your home or not, you should still have a
>Carbon Monoxide Detector. All energy sources can produce Carbon Monoxide,
>which is why a detector is recommended.
>
>What Are Some Control and Safety Options for My Gas Log?
>Control and safety options vary on gas logs. Base models include controls
>inside the fireplace. These are typically knobs that are turned to ignite
>the gas logs. Some gas logs can be controlled by remote control or wall
>switch for convenient operation. Others can be controlled by thermostat or
>timer to enhance efficiency. Check the details of the gas logs you are
>interested in to help you decide on the right controls.
>
>What Is the Difference Between Standard and See-Through Gas Logs?
>Standard gas logs are for 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] How do I Clean gas logs

[William Stephan]

Thanks for this Ray, Now that I've won the battle of the generator, I'm
trying to convince my wife we really need to quit messing around burning
wood and get some ventless gas logs for the fireplace in case we have a
power outage due to an ice storm.

 

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Ray Boyce
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 14:48
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How do I Clean gas logs

 

  

Hi

I have included a range of questions and answers about gas logs.

How Do I Clean Gas Logs? 
If you desire, a good way to do some light cleaning on gas logs is to brush
them with a soft-bristled brush or duster. You should not remove gas logs
from the burner or from the fireplace. Scrubbing or using water or other
solvents is not advisable, as these can remove the paint and bark texture.
If you do brush your gas logs, be sure that they are at room temperature.

What Is the Difference Between Vented Gas Logs and Ventless Gas Logs?
The primary difference between vented gas logs and ventless gas logs is that
ventless gas logs can be operated with the chimney damper closed, which
keeps significantly more heat in your 

home. Ventless gas logs provide warmth before ambiance. 

Vented gas logs provide a flame that looks more similar to a wood fire
flame, but the chimney damper must be opened during operation. Vented gas
logs provide a more appealing flame and stronger ambient firelight. 

Why Buy a Gas Log? 
Gas logs deliver the warm and cozy ambiance of real fire in the fireplace
without all the preparation, maintenance, and cleanup that real wood fires
demand. Many people would love to have a real wood fire in the hearth after
a long day, but time constraints make all the necessary work quite an
ordeal. Gas logs eliminate the hassle. 

Gas logs provide stunning realism, warmth, ambiance and safety features that
will put your mind at ease. Gas logs are also affordable to add to an
existing fireplace or to install in ventless versions. You can also use a
gas log as a back-up heating source during power failures because they
require no electricity. 

What Type of Fuel Do I Use with Gas Logs? 
Gas logs are available for use with natural gas or with liquid propane.
Natural gas logs are the most popular option and they typically generate
more heat than liquid propane gas logs. Propane gas logs are generally used
only in places where natural gas is not available. 

How Do I Get the Right Size Gas Log? 
You will need to measure your fireplace to get the right size gas log. Check
the size of your fireplace, which you can determine by measuring the width,
depth, and height. Gas logs should not fit too tightly along the side and
back walls. 

How Much Do Gas Logs Cost to Install? 
There is no standard cost for installing gas logs. The cost of installing
gas logs depends on the market, and varies with the particular job and
installer. The degree of difficulty and the amount of time it takes to
install the gas line and the gas log are the primary determinants of
installation cost. It is highly recommended that you use only professionals
who are certified to install gas logs. 

How Much Do Gas Logs Cost to Operate? 
The cost of operating gas logs again varies from market to market, depending
on the cost of the gas itself. The BTU (British Thermal Unit) output of any
given gas log determines how much fuel it will use. Contact your local gas
company if you want specific information regarding current gas costs. If you
provide them with the BTU information from your gas log, they should be able
to calculate the cost of operation. 

Are the Flames on Gas Logs Adjustable? 
Whether or not a gas log has adjustable flame depends on the model.
Typically, gas logs do not have adjustable flames. Look for rotary control
valve options if you want a gas log with adjustable flames. 

What Are ANSI Standards, and How Do I Know If My Gas Log Meets Them? 
The ANSI is the American National Standards  org/>
Institute, and they maintain strict standards for ventless gas logs and many
other products. All the products we sell comply with the ANSI Standards for
gas logs, standard Z 21.11.2. 

Can I Burn Wood Along with My Gas Log? 
No. Never attempt to supplement a gas log fire by adding anything, including
wood, to a gas log. This creates additional heat that can damage gas logs
and invalidate your warranty. 

Do I Need a Carbon Monoxide Detector with Gas Logs? 
Whether you have gas logs in your home or not, you should still have a
Carbon Monoxide Detector. All energy sources can produce Carbon Monoxide,
which is why a detector is recommended. 

What Are Some Control and Safety Options for My Gas Log? 
Control and safety options vary on gas logs. Base models include controls
inside the fireplace. These are typically knobs that are turned to ignite
the gas logs. Some gas logs can be controlled by remote con

[BlindHandyMan] How do I Clean gas logs

[Ray Boyce]

Hi

I have included a range of questions and answers about gas logs.

How Do I Clean Gas Logs? 
If you desire, a good way to do some light cleaning on gas logs is to brush
them with a soft-bristled brush or duster. You should not remove gas logs
from the burner or from the fireplace. Scrubbing or using water or other
solvents is not advisable, as these can remove the paint and bark texture.
If you do brush your gas logs, be sure that they are at room temperature.

What Is the Difference Between Vented Gas Logs and Ventless Gas Logs?
The primary difference between vented gas logs and ventless gas logs is that
ventless gas logs can be operated with the chimney damper closed, which
keeps significantly more heat in your 

home. Ventless gas logs provide warmth before ambiance. 

Vented gas logs provide a flame that looks more similar to a wood fire
flame, but the chimney damper must be opened during operation. Vented gas
logs provide a more appealing flame and stronger ambient firelight. 

Why Buy a Gas Log? 
Gas logs deliver the warm and cozy ambiance of real fire in the fireplace
without all the preparation, maintenance, and cleanup that real wood fires
demand. Many people would love to have a real wood fire in the hearth after
a long day, but time constraints make all the necessary work quite an
ordeal. Gas logs eliminate the hassle. 

Gas logs provide stunning realism, warmth, ambiance and safety features that
will put your mind at ease. Gas logs are also affordable to add to an
existing fireplace or to install in ventless versions. You can also use a
gas log as a back-up heating source during power failures because they
require no electricity. 

What Type of Fuel Do I Use with Gas Logs? 
Gas logs are available for use with natural gas or with liquid propane.
Natural gas logs are the most popular option and they typically generate
more heat than liquid propane gas logs. Propane gas logs are generally used
only in places where natural gas is not available. 

How Do I Get the Right Size Gas Log? 
You will need to measure your fireplace to get the right size gas log. Check
the size of your fireplace, which you can determine by measuring the width,
depth, and height. Gas logs should not fit too tightly along the side and
back walls. 

How Much Do Gas Logs Cost to Install? 
There is no standard cost for installing gas logs. The cost of installing
gas logs depends on the market, and varies with the particular job and
installer. The degree of difficulty and the amount of time it takes to
install the gas line and the gas log are the primary determinants of
installation cost. It is highly recommended that you use only professionals
who are certified to install gas logs. 

How Much Do Gas Logs Cost to Operate? 
The cost of operating gas logs again varies from market to market, depending
on the cost of the gas itself. The BTU (British Thermal Unit) output of any
given gas log determines how much fuel it will use. Contact your local gas
company if you want specific information regarding current gas costs. If you
provide them with the BTU information from your gas log, they should be able
to calculate the cost of operation. 

Are the Flames on Gas Logs Adjustable? 
Whether or not a gas log has adjustable flame depends on the model.
Typically, gas logs do not have adjustable flames. Look for rotary control
valve options if you want a gas log with adjustable flames. 

What Are ANSI Standards, and How Do I Know If My Gas Log Meets Them? 
The ANSI is the American National Standards 
Institute, and they maintain strict standards for ventless gas logs and many
other products. All the products we sell comply with the ANSI Standards for
gas logs, standard Z 21.11.2. 

Can I Burn Wood Along with My Gas Log? 
No. Never attempt to supplement a gas log fire by adding anything, including
wood, to a gas log. This creates additional heat that can damage gas logs
and invalidate your warranty. 

Do I Need a Carbon Monoxide Detector with Gas Logs? 
Whether you have gas logs in your home or not, you should still have a
Carbon Monoxide Detector. All energy sources can produce Carbon Monoxide,
which is why a detector is recommended. 

What Are Some Control and Safety Options for My Gas Log? 
Control and safety options vary on gas logs. Base models include controls
inside the fireplace. These are typically knobs that are turned to ignite
the gas logs. Some gas logs can be controlled by remote control or wall
switch for convenient operation. Others can be controlled by thermostat or
timer to enhance efficiency. Check the details of the gas logs you are
interested in to help you decide on the right controls. 

What Is the Difference Between Standard and See-Through Gas Logs? 
Standard gas logs are for standard, front-view fireplaces. See-through style
gas logs are specifically designed for multi-sided fireplaces. These gas
logs have a special burner system that directs the fire in such a way that
it looks appealing and n

[BlindHandyMan] help cleaning gas logs

[Kevin Doucet]

Hi list,

my friend's problem with the electrick heat continues but for now 
they are using gas logs. They are not staying lit and the company 
they purchass the propain from tells the logs probably need cleaning.

What is envolved in cleaning gas logs?

Thanks for your help.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

[Blaine Deutscher]

- Original Message - 
From: Alan & Terrie Robbins
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 11:55 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction



Blaine,

You can arrow up to the from portion of the email header and then use your
JAWS cursor to find the individuals email address. Then just copy and paste
into a message. Depending on what email program you are using you can enter
a key command to do this. I'm using Outlook 2000 and that key stroke does
not work for me.

Hope this helps
Al -Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
Behalf Of Blaine Deutscher
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 11:58 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

there is one thing that I see with this lit already. This message I want
to
go to Ron directly so how do you go about doing that? Since I'm replying
to
this message feel free to email me that info. b.m.deutsc...@sasktel.net

Blaine
- Original Message -
From: Ron Yearns
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

The test instruments used may vary some depending on your level of vision,
if any and your experience with electrical wiring systems of a house. The
talking multimeter that is available through a couple of places in Canada
is
probably the best to use. If you have a fair amount of experience and know
house wiring I have written a method of identifying hot, neutral and
equipment wires using the voltmeter functions and ohmmeter of such a
meter.
I'll beglad to email it direct as an attachment, which the list doesn't
permit. Let me know.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Blaine Deutscher
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 9:41 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

Hello there. I wanted to briefly introduce myself. My name is Blaine and I
live up in Regina Saskatchewan Canada. I took four years of construction
in
high school building folding tables to sheds. I love fixing things and
would
love to learn about accessible and safe methods if it is something that I
haven't done before. The place that I'm moving into has a garage and once
her stuff is unpacked I'm hoping to have a little area that I can build
stuff and if I have to go outside to plane something then that's fine. I
love working with oak the best but cherry wood is also good too. I do now
have a question. Is there something out there that can be used to identify
the colours of wireing when putting electrical outlets or wiring something
into your house?

Blaine

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] changing table saw blades

[Lenny McHugh]

Well, I just came up for a coke and to relax a little. I was in the middle 
of a small project for a friend. Changing the blade I dropped the arbor nut 
into my dust collection system. Not a lot of fun removing hoses to retrieve 
the nut. For years I entertained the thought of having a backup for this 
situation. Maybe I will now have the motivation to purchase a backup. I can 
then take the system apart when not in the middle of something.
Well at least I did get the plywood cut for her.
She asked me to cut two pieces of 1/4 inch that will be about 6x14. She 
wants to paint them a sandy color for a Christmas Nativity scene next year. 
I think I will ask her to come down to finish. I have the idea of using 
double sided carpet tape and 180 grit sandpaper. I want her to see what it 
would look like before I cut up the tape and sandpaper.
Maybe I can talk her into using 1/2 inch instead. Then I could wrap the 
sandpaper under and staple felt on the bottom.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous 
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.





Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address 
for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [BlindHandyMan] shopping for plywood

[Tom Fowle]

Quarter sawn is done with the saw on the radius of the log. So you get
wedges of whatever size you want, then plain them down to desired flat
boards.

Usually logs are turned into boards by simply starting at one side and
sawing off parallel boards rite across the entire log.
In quarter sawn, the center of the original tree is one edge of each board.

I think the main advantage is visual, but there may be some strength
advantages.  The stock for violin family backs and tops is always quarter
sawn.

tom fowle

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

[Alan & Terrie Robbins]

Blaine,

You can arrow up to the from portion of the email header and then use your
JAWS cursor to find the individuals email address. Then just copy and paste
into a message. Depending on what email program you are using you can enter
a key command to do this. I'm using Outlook 2000 and that key stroke does
not work for me.

Hope this helps
Al -Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
Behalf Of Blaine Deutscher
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 11:58 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction



  there is one thing that I see with this lit already. This message I want
to
  go to Ron directly so how do you go about doing that? Since I'm replying
to
  this message feel free to email me that info. b.m.deutsc...@sasktel.net

  Blaine
  - Original Message -
  From: Ron Yearns
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 10:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

  The test instruments used may vary some depending on your level of vision,
  if any and your experience with electrical wiring systems of a house. The
  talking multimeter that is available through a couple of places in Canada
is
  probably the best to use. If you have a fair amount of experience and know
  house wiring I have written a method of identifying hot, neutral and
  equipment wires using the voltmeter functions and ohmmeter of such a
meter.
  I'll beglad to email it direct as an attachment, which the list doesn't
  permit. Let me know.
  Ron
  - Original Message -
  From: Blaine Deutscher
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 9:41 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

  Hello there. I wanted to briefly introduce myself. My name is Blaine and I
  live up in Regina Saskatchewan Canada. I took four years of construction
in
  high school building folding tables to sheds. I love fixing things and
would
  love to learn about accessible and safe methods if it is something that I
  haven't done before. The place that I'm moving into has a garage and once
  her stuff is unpacked I'm hoping to have a little area that I can build
  stuff and if I have to go outside to plane something then that's fine. I
  love working with oak the best but cherry wood is also good too. I do now
  have a question. Is there something out there that can be used to identify
  the colours of wireing when putting electrical outlets or wiring something
  into your house?

  Blaine

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

[David Ferrin]

It all depends on your technology access program of choice. I set this list 
a long time ago so that all replies go back to the list by default. Also BTW 
the list is set to strip out attachments which is for the protection of 
everybody on here.
David Ferrin
www.jaws-users.com
Life is what happens after you have already made other plans.
- Original Message - 
From: "Blaine Deutscher" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction


there is one thing that I see with this lit already. This message I want to
go to Ron directly so how do you go about doing that? Since I'm replying to
this message feel free to email me that info. b.m.deutsc...@sasktel.net

Blaine
- Original Message - 
From: Ron Yearns
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction



The test instruments used may vary some depending on your level of vision,
if any and your experience with electrical wiring systems of a house. The
talking multimeter that is available through a couple of places in Canada is
probably the best to use. If you have a fair amount of experience and know
house wiring I have written a method of identifying hot, neutral and
equipment wires using the voltmeter functions and ohmmeter of such a meter.
I'll beglad to email it direct as an attachment, which the list doesn't
permit. Let me know.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Blaine Deutscher
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 9:41 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

Hello there. I wanted to briefly introduce myself. My name is Blaine and I
live up in Regina Saskatchewan Canada. I took four years of construction in
high school building folding tables to sheds. I love fixing things and would
love to learn about accessible and safe methods if it is something that I
haven't done before. The place that I'm moving into has a garage and once
her stuff is unpacked I'm hoping to have a little area that I can build
stuff and if I have to go outside to plane something then that's fine. I
love working with oak the best but cherry wood is also good too. I do now
have a question. Is there something out there that can be used to identify
the colours of wireing when putting electrical outlets or wiring something
into your house?

Blaine

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
address for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

[Blaine Deutscher]

there is one thing that I see with this lit already. This message I want to 
go to Ron directly so how do you go about doing that? Since I'm replying to 
this message feel free to email me that info. b.m.deutsc...@sasktel.net

Blaine
- Original Message - 
From: Ron Yearns
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction



The test instruments used may vary some depending on your level of vision, 
if any and your experience with electrical wiring systems of a house. The 
talking multimeter that is available through a couple of places in Canada is 
probably the best to use. If you have a fair amount of experience and know 
house wiring I have written a method of identifying hot, neutral and 
equipment wires using the voltmeter functions and ohmmeter of such a meter. 
I'll beglad to email it direct as an attachment, which the list doesn't 
permit. Let me know.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Blaine Deutscher
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 9:41 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

Hello there. I wanted to briefly introduce myself. My name is Blaine and I
live up in Regina Saskatchewan Canada. I took four years of construction in
high school building folding tables to sheds. I love fixing things and would
love to learn about accessible and safe methods if it is something that I
haven't done before. The place that I'm moving into has a garage and once
her stuff is unpacked I'm hoping to have a little area that I can build
stuff and if I have to go outside to plane something then that's fine. I
love working with oak the best but cherry wood is also good too. I do now
have a question. Is there something out there that can be used to identify
the colours of wireing when putting electrical outlets or wiring something
into your house?

Blaine

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

[Bob Kennedy]

Hey Ron, I'd be interested in the attachment if you'd send it along.
inthes...@att.net

Thanks
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ron Yearns 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 11:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction



  The test instruments used may vary some depending on your level of vision, if 
any and your experience with electrical wiring systems of a house. The talking 
multimeter that is available through a couple of places in Canada is probably 
the best to use. If you have a fair amount of experience and know house wiring 
I have written a method of identifying hot, neutral and equipment wires using 
the voltmeter functions and ohmmeter of such a meter. I'll beglad to email it 
direct as an attachment, which the list doesn't permit. Let me know.
  Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Blaine Deutscher 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 9:41 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

  Hello there. I wanted to briefly introduce myself. My name is Blaine and I 
  live up in Regina Saskatchewan Canada. I took four years of construction in 
  high school building folding tables to sheds. I love fixing things and would 
  love to learn about accessible and safe methods if it is something that I 
  haven't done before. The place that I'm moving into has a garage and once 
  her stuff is unpacked I'm hoping to have a little area that I can build 
  stuff and if I have to go outside to plane something then that's fine. I 
  love working with oak the best but cherry wood is also good too. I do now 
  have a question. Is there something out there that can be used to identify 
  the colours of wireing when putting electrical outlets or wiring something 
  into your house?

  Blaine 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

[Ron Yearns]

The test instruments used may vary some depending on your level of vision, if 
any and your experience with electrical wiring systems of a house.   The 
talking multimeter that is available through a couple of places in Canada is 
probably the best to use.  If you have a fair amount of experience and know 
house wiring I have written a method of identifying hot, neutral and equipment 
wires using the voltmeter functions and ohmmeter of such a meter.  I'll beglad 
to email it direct as an attachment, which the list doesn't permit. Let me know.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Blaine Deutscher 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 9:41 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction



  Hello there. I wanted to briefly introduce myself. My name is Blaine and I 
  live up in Regina Saskatchewan Canada. I took four years of construction in 
  high school building folding tables to sheds. I love fixing things and would 
  love to learn about accessible and safe methods if it is something that I 
  haven't done before. The place that I'm moving into has a garage and once 
  her stuff is unpacked I'm hoping to have a little area that I can build 
  stuff and if I have to go outside to plane something then that's fine. I 
  love working with oak the best but cherry wood is also good too. I do now 
  have a question. Is there something out there that can be used to identify 
  the colours of wireing when putting electrical outlets or wiring something 
  into your house?

  Blaine 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

[Lee A. Stone]

welcome Blaine and anoy other new members to the list.  ask  your 
questions and  many will have  answers for you.  Lee, from Hudson,NY


On 
Mon, Dec 28, 2009 
at 09:41:05AM -0600, Blaine Deutscher wrote:
> Hello there. I wanted to briefly introduce myself. My name is Blaine and I 
> live up in Regina Saskatchewan Canada. I took four years of construction in 
> high school building folding tables to sheds. I love fixing things and would 
> love to learn about accessible and safe methods if it is something that I 
> haven't done before. The place that I'm moving into has a garage and once 
> her stuff is unpacked I'm hoping to have a little area that I can build 
> stuff and if I have to go outside to plane something then that's fine. I 
> love working with oak the best but cherry wood is also good too. I do now 
> have a question. Is there something out there that can be used to identify 
> the colours of wireing when putting electrical outlets or wiring something 
> into your house?
> 
> Blaine 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 

-- 
Is not that the nature of men and women -- that the pleasure is in the
learning of each other?
-- Natira, the High Priestess of Yonada, "For the World is
   Hollow and I Have Touched the Sky", stardate 5476.3.
.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

[Bob Kennedy]

First off, welcome to the list.  As for identifying colors, we've all been 
trying to find something that works well.  

They make color identifiers that talk but they aren't accurate enough for 
wiring yet.  Or at least I haven't heard of one that is.  

Several of us on here do our own wiring but no one agrees on a real reliable 
tool for sorting colors.  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Blaine Deutscher 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 10:41 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction



  Hello there. I wanted to briefly introduce myself. My name is Blaine and I 
  live up in Regina Saskatchewan Canada. I took four years of construction in 
  high school building folding tables to sheds. I love fixing things and would 
  love to learn about accessible and safe methods if it is something that I 
  haven't done before. The place that I'm moving into has a garage and once 
  her stuff is unpacked I'm hoping to have a little area that I can build 
  stuff and if I have to go outside to plane something then that's fine. I 
  love working with oak the best but cherry wood is also good too. I do now 
  have a question. Is there something out there that can be used to identify 
  the colours of wireing when putting electrical outlets or wiring something 
  into your house?

  Blaine 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Introduction

[Blaine Deutscher]

Hello there. I wanted to briefly introduce myself. My name is Blaine and I 
live up in Regina Saskatchewan Canada. I took four years of construction in 
high school building folding tables to sheds. I love fixing things and would 
love to learn about accessible and safe methods if it is something that I 
haven't done before. The place that I'm moving into has a garage and once 
her stuff is unpacked I'm hoping to have a little area that I can build 
stuff and if I have to go outside to plane something then that's fine. I 
love working with oak the best but cherry wood is also good too. I do now 
have a question. Is there something out there that can be used to identify 
the colours of wireing when putting electrical outlets or wiring something 
into your house?

Blaine 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]