RE: [BlindHandyMan] Reliable Compass
Spiro not much difference in mechanics between them. The silva i have is a little thinner than the brunton my wife has but they are both reliable. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Reliable Compass From: Spiro Date: 09/08/2010 12:35 any difference is durability, price or features on which you can comment? On Tue, 7 Sep 2010, William Stephan wrote: > Ed: My take on this is that a compass is something you use when you'are > perhaps having a problem, like say being lost in bad weather. So, simple is > good. Yes, a GPS unit can give you a direction of travel, but moving around > when you're already lost or unfamiliar with the environment is not such a > good idea, particularly for blinks. I know a lot of people like talking > compasses, but again, they're subject to fail when wet etc. > > So, I've had good luck with two brands of Braille compass which are: > > Silva compass > > www.silvacompass.com/ > > > > And Brunton Compass > > www.brunton.com <http://www.brunton.com/> > > > > Both these outfits make or at least made Braille compasses, of the kind > where you have a free-floating wheel with cardinal directions on it which > locks when the lid is opened.I rarely leave home without one BTW. > > -Original Message- > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] > On Behalf Of Edward Przybylek > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 15:14 > To: BlindHandyMan > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Reliable Compass > > > > > > Hi all, > > I realize this topic has been discussed before and I did look in the > archives before sending this message but found the number of messages on the > topic to be a bit daunting. I'd simply like to know if anyone is using a > Braille compass that works reliably for them. I tried the Columbus Talking > Digital Compass and I found it to be absolutely worthless. In a majority of > the times I tried to use the compass it gave me readings that were > completely wrong. I returned it yesterday. I've seen advertisements for a > couple of Braille compasses but I'd like to know if they're any better than > the talking compasses before I go through all the trouble of ordering one > only to return it a few days later. Any advice on a reliable Braille > compass will be greatly appreciated. > > Take care, > > Ed Przybylek > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Reliable Compass
Jennifer one handed would work i guess but a lanyard would be in order Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Reliable Compass From: Jennifer Jackson Date: 09/08/2010 13:26 How well do the compasses work one handed? I used to use my talking compass a lot as opposed to the tactile one I had because I could use it with one hand while working my dog. I used it a lot on this one long stretch of sidewalk on campus that curved and Y'd. Because of all the big buildings, neither the sun nor the wind were reliable guides and the compass let me stop her if she went the wrong way. When it comes up on the list it makes me think about getting another one, but my goodness there are a lot of gadgets out there. Jennifer _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 12:34 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Reliable Compass any difference is durability, price or features on which you can comment? On Tue, 7 Sep 2010, William Stephan wrote: > Ed: My take on this is that a compass is something you use when you'are > perhaps having a problem, like say being lost in bad weather. So, simple is > good. Yes, a GPS unit can give you a direction of travel, but moving around > when you're already lost or unfamiliar with the environment is not such a > good idea, particularly for blinks. I know a lot of people like talking > compasses, but again, they're subject to fail when wet etc. > > So, I've had good luck with two brands of Braille compass which are: > > Silva compass > > www.silvacompass.com/ > > > > And Brunton Compass > > www.brunton.com <http://www.brunton.com/> > > > > Both these outfits make or at least made Braille compasses, of the kind > where you have a free-floating wheel with cardinal directions on it which > locks when the lid is opened. I rarely leave home without one BTW. > > -Original Message- > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> ] > On Behalf Of Edward Przybylek > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 15:14 > To: BlindHandyMan > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Reliable Compass > > > > > > Hi all, > > I realize this topic has been discussed before and I did look in the > archives before sending this message but found the number of messages on the > topic to be a bit daunting. I'd simply like to know if anyone is using a > Braille compass that works reliably for them. I tried the Columbus Talking > Digital Compass and I found it to be absolutely worthless. In a majority of > the times I tried to use the compass it gave me readings that were > completely wrong. I returned it yesterday. I've seen advertisements for a > couple of Braille compasses but I'd like to know if they're any better than > the talking compasses before I go through all the trouble of ordering one > only to return it a few days later. Any advice on a reliable Braille > compass will be greatly appreciated. > > Take care, > > Ed Przybylek > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking thermometer or other solution.
I think i had one of these and that it was not programmable unless you could read the screen. I could be wrong though but probably good to check this before buying. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking thermometer or other solution. From: Rick Hume Date: 09/08/2010 17:30 Now, I'm hoping you have one of these and can tell us more about it. I have the Oregon blood pressure unit, and think it is one of the coolest gadgets around for the price. It tells you in speech, as well as by its digital screen, your blood pressure, etc. My question concerning the heat sensor is, does it also give all information in speech, along with the digital readout? Do you have an idea as to the price? - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 9:57 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] talking thermometer or other solution. How about the Oregon Scientific Talking Wireless BBQ thermometer. That sounds like it would fit the bill. Again, it only goes up to 572 degrees, but has a separate wireless probe from the talking unit. Here is a description. Well let you know when your BBQ is ready from a football field away! No need to wait by the grill to find out when dinner is readythis wireless thermometer verbally alerts you when the meat has reached the perfect temperature. Program your choice of eight entres, choose the doneness desired and youre good to grill. Digital LCD screen with remote wireless probe to identify temperature/readiness of meatSpeaks in five languages with corresponding display (English, Spanish, German, French, Danish)Sensor has temperature range from 32F to 572FProgrammable entre programs include beef, lamb, veal, hamburger, pork, turkey, chicken, and fishFour doneness selections include rare, medium rare, medium, and well doneFour verbal and audio alert options let you know the status of your mealalmost ready, ready, overcooked, and out-of-rangeAudio alarm sounds when selected temperature is reachedMain unit will receive the probe signal from up to 330 feet awayStainless steel probe detaches from sensor for easy cleaningLow battery indicator -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Description of grill gloves
Allan. My wife uses these primarily for carrying the hot baskets into the house. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Description of grill gloves From: Alan Paganelli Date: 08/30/2010 15:49 I would be more afraid that it would promote carelessness instead but other then that, I actually have a set of these that came with my rotisserie. I use them for roasts but not on the grill. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: "RJ" To: Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 1:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Description of grill gloves Grill Glove - The Ultimate Grilling Gloves Make your Cookouts Easier and More Fun with the Grill Glove! Buy One Grill Glove & Get One Free! Grill glove product 2 Introducing the fabulous Grill Glove! Do you love to grill, but tired of having your efforts frustrated by clumsy tongs and rusty utensils? The handy, heat resistant Grill Glove puts the cooking power of the grill in the palm of your hand. The Grill Glove is made of 100% food grade silicone so you can grab your grub right off the grill. Flip hamburgers, hot dogs and steaks with ease. The Grill Glove is designed to give you the perfect grip for every flip. Use the Grill Glove For: . Skewers & Kabobs . Hamburgers, Hot Dogs, & Steaks . Baked Potatoes or Corn on the Cob . Flip Entire Roasts, Briskets. Even a Rack of Ribs The Grill Glove resist temperature up to 500 degrees, making it perfect for handling hot baked potatoes and more. The built in flame deflection technology doubles the surface area...protecting your hand longer. And...it's waterproof! You can grab an egg right out of a boiling pot of water and not feel a thing! It will be super for your next lobster boil! Grill glove product The Grill Glove Features: . Waterproof . 100% Food Grade Silicone . Flame Deflection Technology . 5 Finger Design for Easy Gripping Regular, old fashioned oven mitts burn, char and get crusty. But the Grill Glove resists high temperatures, so even if you touch the flames, you won't get burned. And it's dishwasher safe, too! The Grill Glove Benefits: . More Sanitary . Dishwasher Safe . Resists Temperatures Up to 500ºF . Protects Longer Than Standard Oven Mitts [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using Gas Grill!
Allan. We have one of those baskets and the cleanup is a real pain in the butt because of how closely the wires are spaced. Any good techniques for doing this fairly quickly and easily. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using Gas Grill! From: Alan Paganelli Date: 08/30/2010 10:40 I think your better off with a cooking basket with a handle. You can close the grill lid on the basket with the handle sticking out. When you need to turn the food, open the grill lid, pickup the food with the handle and turn it all over at once. I bought a basket at Target a few weeks back for 12 bucks. I was experimenting with frozen chicken fingers and hot wings. I wanted to see how they would taste cooked out on the grill verses dropping in hot oil. The difference is amazing. Cooking hot wings on the grill in a flippible basket takes about 20 to 25 minutes which isn't bad sense they are put on the grill still frozen. Chicken fingers takes about the same time about 20 to 25 minutes. They come out nice and crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. They come already coated and cook up quite nicely. As soon as restaurants discover cooking them on the grill, they'll be offering them on their menus. No deep fried fat and the taste is of the sauce and the grill only. Very good! Would anybody be interested in joining a cooking on the grill list? Or are there any blindness related lists for those of us who love cooking on the grill? Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: "Brice Mijares" To: Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 5:45 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using Gas Grill! > One more item I forgot to mention. Have a pair of glove with at least > leather finger tips on them if you plan to cook anything in foil. this > way > you can use your hands to turn what ever in the foil. > > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links > > > >
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Using Gas Grill!
Nothing to be scared of claudia only thing i would add is to be sure you buy a fitted cover for the grill when not in use. Also turn the tank valve off and then the burner valves when shutting the thing off and be absolutely sure you buy a spare tank for when you run out of gas in the middle of cooking a meal for company which will happen sooner than later. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using Gas Grill! From: Claudia Date: 08/30/2010 05:25 Hi, The honey & I, being both totally blind, want to know how easy or difficult it is to use a gas outdoor grill? We're both pretty confident cookds, but something just scares me about the whole gas thing! I guess I'd like to know how doable it is? Thanks. Claudia Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net Skype: claudiadr10 __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5408 (20100830) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage
Interesting lenny. I've never paid anything up front. I don't really understand the logic either since a contractor can always get a mechanics lien if there is a problem getting paid. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage From: Lenny McHugh Date: 08/05/2010 12:17 Alan, excellent advice. In my area all contractors require 50% down. -- From: "Alan Paganelli" Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 1:10 PM To: Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage > I would suspect that if the damage is that large that there is more damage > you can't see and it's problem that the roof is weak in spots. Crawling > around on a roof that has no damage is a risky business to start with and > when you toss in possible water damage it could turn deadly and very fast. > > It's not just about fixing the hole but about inspecting for other damage > that possibly could be worse. But, as has already been said, this sort of > thing won't go away on it's own. > > Here's what I recommend. Contact 5 or 6 roofing contractors in your area. > Tell them that your taking bids on roof repairs and briefly describe the > problem. Don't assume. People invite contractors to stick it to them by > describing things they assume to be true. If you tell the contractor you > are afraid you might need a new roof, guess what he'll tell you. Yes mam, > we examined your roof and your quite correct. Your roof is shot and needs > to be replaced. That's at least a 10,000 dollar job. Instead, only > describe what you know as fact. Tell them up front that your only taking > bids at this time. If they say something like we don't give bids, you can > reply, then you don't get the job. If their honest, they'll come out and > give you a free bid. If they want to charge you for it, run real fast. > > I'm the president of our home owners association and am responsible for > over > 55 homes. It's not a large association as such things go but we get home > owners seeking information on what they can do to avoid being taken. > > Out of 5 or 6 bids, you should wind up with 4. There is always 1 or 2 who > offer more excuses why they can't come out when they said they would. > Their > probably doing you a favor anyway. Out of the 4 or so you get,you'll be > amazed at the range of prices. > > As an example, on a 10 thousand roofing job the prices could be as low as > 6 > and as high as 20 thousand. > > Write everything down and never assume you will be able to remember it > because you won't. Get the bid in writing or you don't have anything. If > it's in writing, you've got the paper to prove the bidder said what ever. > > Never pay in full up front. You have no bargaining chips left. If you > are > still holding the money, you've got say-so. It is proper to put some money > down up front but only a small amount usually far less then half; like > maybe > a fourth. /And finally, run like hell when they start promising you the > sun > and the moon. Unless it's in writing, you don't have it. > > All the best of luck to you with it. Oh and be sure to inquire about > warrantees on their work and how long etc. > > Alan > > Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ > There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on > the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! > > The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still > available upon request. > > - Original Message - > From: "Cy Selfridge" > To: > Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 8:19 AM > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage > > >> Jennifer, >> >> I concur with Al in that unless you are pretty adept with roofing issues >> *DON'T* do it. >> >> Crawling around in the attic should also be left to those who have >> experience. >> >> Having a pro come and fix the problem is a whole lot less than hospital >> bills and resultant recovery from falling off the roof or through the >> ceiling. >> >> Cy, The Anasazi >> >> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com >> [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] >> On Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson >> Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 9:04 PM >> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com >> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage >> >> >> >> >> >> Good Morning, >> >> I need some input on the condition of my roof and wh
RE: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage
Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage From: Jennifer Jackson Date: 08/05/2010 10:09 Good Morning, I need some input on the condition of my roof and what my next step should be. There is a hole in the ceiling of an upstairs bedroom that is from a water leak. I have been up on a short ladder and checked this part out for myself. It is about the size of a salad plate. I know I have to stop the water from coming in, but I am afraid to get up on the second story roof to investigate. Both afraid of falling, and of doing more damage to the roof as I know nothing about roofing. My mother looks up into this hole and goes on about being able to "see the sky." Her answer to the problem is that I must get some man to fix it, so she is not very helpful as a source for more sighted details. My husband has a theory about this leak that I am not certain about. I may have mentioned that home repair is not his forte? Anyway, he insists that the light my mother is seeing is coming through the vent. He is referring to the round vent things that have a fan in them for ventilation. He claims that the water is coming in through the vent and is normal. He tells me that the other fan has a plastic pan under it to catch the water and that this is why it does not have a similar leek. The water that leeks through seems like a lot of water to be expected to just evaporate out of a collection pan. My husband is suggesting that we just need to put in some more insulation and repair the sheet rock. I am willing to get up in the attic and try to access this area to get more information. I am just not certain that any repairs from that side will really do any good, or of any safety precautions I need to take. Such as perhaps turning off the electricity at the breaker box to avoid any possible live wires? Your input will be greatly appreciated. It will cause a fight with my husband if I go ahead and call in a roofer after he has said we do not need one. I am willing to fight with him, but I prefer not to whenever possible. I would love for him to be right about this. Jennifer\ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Jennifer how about having your homeowners insurance carrier do an inspection for you. You might be able to file a claim and have the work done professionally done and maybe paid for as well.
RE: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue
This is what i use in my generator and so far the thing runs fine when i test it. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue From: Edward Przybylek Date: 08/03/2010 09:38 Hi David, I've always used a product called Stabil (at least I think that's how to spell it). Take care, Ed From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of David Engebretson Jr. Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 9:47 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue what type of additive do you use? thanks, david David Engebretson Jr., CTO Peace Weaver Hosting Need web hosting? Come visit us at PeaceWeaverHosting.com - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 6:31 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue Hi David, Years ago, I had a very similar problem with my mower. It occurred in the spring immediately after I brought my mower out of winter storage. The service person who checked my mower told me it was old gas. He drained and replaced the gas and the mower has been running well ever since. I might have forgotten to put an additive in the gas when I stored it for the winter. I never forget this anymore. Take care, Ed From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of David Engebretson Jr. Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:27 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue My mower stops running after a few minutes of mowing unless I open the throttle while I prime it with the little rubber bulb on the side of the carb. This must be a tell tale sign of a specific issue... anyone know what it is? thermometer? clogged primer? need a new motor? thanks, david [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3046 - Release Date: 08/02/10 17:59:00 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] municipal water
Good man lenny Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] municipal water From: Lenny McHugh Date: 07/06/2010 14:29 I was pleased to learn that our municipal water authority implemented one of my suggestions. There were many times when a water line repair caused dirty and sometimes muddy water. When this happens they make a water boil advisory. Only one time did a neighbor think to call me in the morning to tell me not to drink the water because it is dirty. After the last time I called the manager to talk about a possible fix. I first told him that not only am I blind but an elderly woman across the street and my mother who lives a few blocks away can't see the water. I told him that in today's technology it should be afairly simple fix. How many political robot calls do we receive. If this is simple enough for them to use why can't they use similar software to notify a select group or everyone in the affected area? He thought it was a good idea. Well yesterday not too far away there was a water break. In today's news it was mentioned that everyone in that area was notified by a phone call and they will be notified when they no longer have to boil the water. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
RE: [BlindHandyMan] cleaning metal door knobs
Brasso maybe. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cleaning metal door knobs From: "David Engebretson Jr." Date: 07/01/2010 23:57 I've got some old door knobs and plates that cover the locking mechanisms that need some cleaning. Not sure what types of metal they are - just a hodge podge of antiquie ish knobs. any suggestions for a cleaning material that won't hurt the metal but will get it clean? thanks, david [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] airconditioners
Dan and all. How do these minis compare with a forced air system in terms of power consumption. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] airconditioners From: Dan Rossi Date: 07/01/2010 09:49 Alan, A ductless system is a great way to get something like central air in a house that does not have a forced air heating system. My house uses hot water radiators, so I do not have ducts already installed. To install a ducted system would be a very difficult retro-fit. A ductless system is much easier, because you only need to run small coolant lines rather than large ducts through the house. You could even run them on the outside of the house. So it is a much simpler retro-fit if you want AC in multiple rooms without having to use several window air conditioners. Also, since the compressor is separate from the chillers, it is much much quieter in the rooms than window air conditioners are. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Maytag, some people
Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Maytag, some people From: Lenny McHugh Date: 06/04/2010 15:50 Karen told me that when she spoke to the woman at the call center she told her that she also has one of these models. The strange part is that the woman has had it for over a year and every time she used it she could smell something burning. For me the first whiff of something burning Maytag would have been on the phone. She told Karen because of that she never left her home when it was running. I know one or two guys that would do the same thing, so it is not gender specific. I would place my son-in-law as president of her club. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5173 (20100604) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block
We have one of these and my wife says she would not buy another. They discolor very easily and are surprisingly hard to keep looking good. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block From: Bob Kennedy Date: 05/27/2010 19:10 I know a lot of people like the "cooktop" stoves, smooth top as you call it, but I don't care for them. Before you ever buy one, check the price of replacements. When I dispatched for Sears, they sold anywhere from $450 to over $1000. That is just the top, not the oven too. Why do you need to replace it? Drop a pan on one and watch what happens. I ordered replacements everyday there. - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 8:02 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block If I ever get to remodel the kitchen I will probably go for gas also. Though I am tempted by the smooth topped ones because of the ease of clean up. My house has gas and electric, but someone put in electric appliances in the kitchen for some reason. Jennifer - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 6:51 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block I am guessing these burners are the easy to unplug and remove for cleaning. Great idea for cleaning , electrically it sucks. I spent 27 years actively in the electrical maintance field and electric stoves were a real pain. The hard wired burners are the best and the ones called monotube that are fastened in and then hinge up are the best way to go. Of course converting you stove would cost a minimum of $100 just for the burners. I have always bought gas stoves for my personal use and always will. Sorry not much real help. Ron - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 4:52 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block Hello Everybody, This is about my stove top. The elements are not setting into the terminal block correctly. I can not get them in myself a lot of the time, and when they are in it does not take much to bump them loose. Does the whole terminal block have to be replaced or is there maybe some kind of gasket that is just needing to be replaced? Any other trouble shooting thoughts on what this is? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.
Fan a ramp might be easier and more useful to boot. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs. From: Dan Rossi Date: 05/23/2010 21:24 I finished the basement floor project, including building the trap door to access the central drain. The floor ain't pretty, just sheets of O S B, but it seems quite sturdy. As part of putting down the new floor, I ripped out the basement stairs, which had been pretty seriously compromised by termites. This weekend I started building the new stairs. Instead of cutting the saw tooth stringers, much too tedious, I am just using 2X12s with the treads and risers sandwiched between them. A lot simpler, but never-the-less, pretty darn hard to cut those angles exactly right. The big pain is just making sure the measurements are as exact as you can get. Cutting off the ends of the 2X12 to get the angles for the upper and lower ends took a while. I can easily calculate that I needed a 43.5 degree angle but being able to measure out everything to cut that angle was frustrating. Being off a 16th doesn't seem like much until you get twelve feet away, and suddenly you're an inch off from where you want to be. Not to mention that the header I was resting the top of the stringer against, was not even close to plumb, so if I wanted the stringer to rest nice and flush against it, I had to re-cut it at a completely different angle. I got the stringers cut and mounted, but had to leave half way through today, so one more week without steps I guess. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rent or own, that is the question
Having been in the tool rental business ny advice is to own whenever possible. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rent or own, that is the question From: Bob Kennedy Date: 03/17/2010 21:21 Good job Dan the tool pimp! - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 9:54 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rent or own, that is the question Terry, Since I am not trying to cut down on my tool purchases, and am an unabashed tool hoar, I emphatically say that you should log on right now, and pick yourself up a sweet little roofing nailer. And you might as well get some new table saw blades while you're at it. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] update - TALKING DIGITAL MULTI METER WITH LIGHTED LEADS-MPJA, Inc.
I have one of these and the only thing i did to make it more blind friendly was to get clips for the leads. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] update - TALKING DIGITAL MULTI METER WITH LIGHTED LEADS-MPJA, Inc. From: Dan Rossi Date: 03/16/2010 10:02 Lenny, Maybe you are unaware of the history of this meter. This is the one that we were having to buy from our friends North of the border because they originally wouldn't sell to blind people here in the U.S. because they were afraid we would use them and electrocute our poor blind selves. So, it doesn't surprise me that they tried to dissuade you from purchasing one. A number of us on this list own this meter and are quite happy with them. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question
Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question From: Tom Hodges Date: 11/17/2009 07:35 What really torques my jaws at Home Depot is whenever I ask a clerk for help finding something, they want to know what I'm using it for. For instance, I've ask them where I can find the number 8, one inch long, flat head, brass wood screws. Invariably they will say, what are you using them for? My canned answer is always, What difference is it to you what I'm using them for? I told you specifically what I wanted, I didn't ask you for your opinion on whether I should buy them, or use something else instead. I'm not saying this has anything to do with the fact that I'm carrying a white cane or not. I think it's a stupid question regardless. Can you imagine asking for a three foot long black iron pipe and they ask you where you intend to put it? At that point, my wife would probably grab me and say, don't say itTom! I know what you want to say Tom, but please don't say it. Anyway, that's my story. If my wife didn't go to Home Depot with me, I would probably come home with a black eye. Regards, Tom Hodges From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 4:53 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] surprising question there are still folks at big box hardware stores who make it seem like one must get their approval and clearance before buying a power tool. I've been tempted more than once to say that I was going to put the thing in my face and turn it on. Ignorance is a plague and the worst thing is that it seems to demand it's own bill of rights. Can't blame folks who are innocent. but it seems like a plague sometimes. On Sun, 15 Nov 2009, clifford wrote: > Dear List members: > I was in a chat room on a site for blind folks and their friends, and the subject turned to the events of the day. My first wife and I engaged in some spring cleaning in November, and we can not figure out whether we are behind several months, or ahead several months. In any event, I was commenting about my collection of screw-drivers, which has gotten out of control, and I am telling all of my friends and family that this Christmas need not involve screw-drivers. > One of the participants on the site asked me, "what would a blind person do with a screw-driver". I explained that I had disassembled a chair today and reassembled the good parts from two chairs to make one good one. This gentleman apparently has not been exposed to handyman activities at all. > While I don't perform as many tasks as I did as a younger man, I am astounded at the lack of opportunity some blind folks have. Their parents, teachers, and friends have protected them too much, in my country boy's opinion. > > Yours Truly, > > Clifford Wilson > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] tom sadly these kinds of questions are probably driven by concerns over product liability and the insurance costs associated with it.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry
Tom, I'll check this out for sure. There's a really nice plumming supply house I can get to if I can ever get some time off of work. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry From: Tom Fowle Date: 10/26/2009 11:48 bill, There exists, or used too, a flapper replacement including a new seat for it which fits over the old hole using a goop that comes allready in the underparts of the new seat. This way you just press it into place and hook up the chain and you have an entirely new set of surfaces and the old one hidden by the goop. If the flapper and old seat are both damaged, this may be an easy solution. Tom Fowle On Sun, Oct 25, 2009 at 10:58:24AM -0500, wstep...@everestkc.net wrote: > Dale, I de-slimed the thing as best I could, but we have hard water, and the > flapper I'm having trouble with is at least four and a half yhears old, so > it's probably time for a new one. > > Bill Stephan > Kansas Citty MO > Email: wstep...@everestkc.net > Phone: (816)803-2469 > > > - Original Message - > From: Dale Leavens > Date: Saturday, October 24, 2009 8:56 pm > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry > > Try adjusting the chain so it pulls the flapper up a little > > higher. This causes water to tip out of the flapper so it takes a > > little longer to settle down onto the seat. > > > > You might try wiping around the surface of the flapper seat with a > > rag too. Sometimes it collects slime and such which interferes > > with a good seal. Similarly, old rubber on those flappers > > sometimes gets hard or stiff or otherwise deforms and that can > > interfere with the seal. > > > > Hope this helps. > > > > > > - Original Message - > > From: wstep...@everestkc.net > > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 9:27 PM > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry > > > > > >Well folks, as the subject line indicates I've been trying to > > fix a leaking or running toilet today. So far the lads at the > > hardware store, you know, the one that's a mile from my house on > > foot and a mile bac, have sold me two flappers, one which I broke > > because the ears wouldn't fit my toilet, and one that fits so > > poorly the toilet refills every 30 seconds or so. > > I'm usually pretty easy to get along with when it comes to > > people making mistakes, but I was a little unhappy, so called the > > manager of the place after the second flapper didn't work. I was > > explaining my unhappiness to her, and she said she was truly sorry > > but that the place had just been held up at gunpoint and they were > > dealing with the police and could I come in tomorrow. So what > > could I say. > > > > Anyway, then I started switching flappers and have two out of > > three toilets working, however, when I press the flush handle, the > > flapper wants to seat itself before the tank empties. Can some of > > you folks give me some pointers? Do I need to put some kind of > > small floats on the chains close to the flappers? The old one that > > I replaced did have a chunk of cork or something similar on the > > chain, but the replacement flappers don't have anything like that > > on the chains that came with them. The flappers are hollow rubber > > if that helps the diagnosis. > > > > Thanks in advance for any suggestions. > > > > Bill Stephan > > Kansas Citty MO > > Email: wstep...@everestkc.net > > Phone: (816)803-2469 > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry
Art it looks like the increase is part water wastage and partt increase in sewer taxes. Thanks for the suggestion. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry From: Arthur Rizzino Date: 10/26/2009 20:27 By any chance could the float be out of adjustment? If so the tank's extra water will run down the over flow and run your water bill up. Art - Original Message - From: wstep...@everestkc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 4:29 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry Clifford: I hadn't thought about the float saving water until I read your post, but it makes perfect sense now. I wound up getting floats on the two supposedly universal flappers I bought this morning because they don't cost extra, and I can easily remove them if I need to. After all this, the thing is apparently not seated right anyway, because it still occasionally runs. Is there anything else I can do before calling in the professional turd wrastlers? Should I try changing the shut-off unit? I can't see that that would make a difference, but then my batting average on this one is pretty punky anyway. Thanks for any thoughts. I hope there's not some kind of damaging leak going on that I don't know about. Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: clifford Date: Sunday, October 25, 2009 1:30 pm Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry > Dear Dale: > I had a problem with the arm dropping too low with a tank on > which I had changed out the original handle and arm. I discovered > that the adjustment for the arm was related to the position you > have the arm in, when you tighten down the nut to hold it in > place. In my case, the thread was a left hand thread and it took > me a minute to figure out what was going on with the unit. > When changing out the flapper on the new model commodes, I > make sure and get one without the float, as that is designed in > many to cut down on water usage, and since we do not have a > shortage of water, since our drought lifted, I prefer the full > flush, as that prevents blockages much better. > > Yours Truly, > > Clifford Wilson > - Original Message - > From: Dale Leavens > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 12:17 PM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry > > > > Just that I had a similar problem with one of the toilets here a > couple of weeks ago. I couldn't really see anything wrong with the > flapper but since I had to change out the valve assembly anyway > and the flapper was part of that kit I changed the flapper too and > the trickle quit. The original flapper was a little stiff and > there seemed to be some encrustment on it which didn't really > scrape off so I am guessing it just wasn't forming to the seat as > well as the new and now softer flapper. > > I ran into another issue though which I can't explain, the lever > arm doesn't seem to want to stop descending so it interferes with > the fall float. I took a really stiff piece of wire and bent it to > 90 degrees and pushed one end of it into the top of the foam > insulation of the tank so the other sticks out horizontally and > restrains the lever arm from dropping below about the horizontal. > seems to be working. > > - Original Message - > From: wstep...@everestkc.net > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 11:58 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry > > Dale, I de-slimed the thing as best I could, but we have hard > water, and the flapper I'm having trouble with is at least four > and a half yhears old, so it's probably time for a new one. > > Bill Stephan > Kansas Citty MO > Email: wstep...@everestkc.net > Phone: (816)803-2469 > > - Original Message - > From: Dale Leavens > Date: Saturday, October 24, 2009 8:56 pm > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in toiletry > > Try adjusting the chain so it pulls the flapper up a little > > higher. This causes water to tip out of the flapper so it takes > a > > little longer to settle down onto the seat. > > > > You might try wiping around the surface of the flapper seat with > a > > rag too. Sometimes it collects slime and such which interferes > > with a good seal. Similarly, old rub
RE: [BlindHandyMan] How level is level.
Dan, if you can place a full, very long stemmed wine glass on the floor without spillage, you're OK buddy. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How level is level. From: Dan Rossi Date: 10/20/2009 13:43 OK, so now that I got my head out of my ass and will use my water level next chance I get, how level is level? Sure sure, you want that floor dead flat level so that a ball baring wouldn't roll anywhere, but let's get real. Over a 15 foot span, what is noticeable by a person? Walking around in a 15 foot square room, would you notice a half inch difference from one side to another? Thanks. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] power twist link belts
Thanks Bob and Lenny. I assume you measure the outer part of the V, is that right? Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] power twist link belts From: Bob Kennedy Date: 10/16/2009 18:37 You can soup up any V type belt tool with a twist link. They aren't supposed to work on the serpentine style belts or so I've been told. - Original Message - From: wstep...@everestkc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 6:44 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] power twist link belts Lenny: are these belts specific to Grizzly or can they be used on other brands of tools, say Delta drill presses. Mine is a Delta and it does vibrate a little bit. Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh Date: Friday, October 16, 2009 5:09 pm Subject: [BlindHandyMan] power twist link belts > Hopefully tomorrow I will be making a trip to Grizzly. Been trying > to get > there for a few weeks. One of the items on my list is a 3/8 inch > power twist > link belt for my drill press. Has anyone converted the drill press > to use > these belts. My only concern is to get the belts to the correct > length. My > grizzly 7943 press uses two belts. When I upgraded the belt on my > table saw > the difference was almost unbelievable. All vibration went away, > you can > stand a nickel on edge while the machine is running.If we can get > there I > also plan to purchase the table for the drill press. I could not > make one > for what Grizzly is selling it for. > Not sure how long I will be there it is a major (candy) store with > over > 12,000 tools on display. > --- > Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and > humorous > with many resources for the blind. > http://www.lennymchugh.com > Lenny > Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line > whenaddressing. > Help stop identity theft. > > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From > Various List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the > following address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind > Handy Man list just send a blank message to: > blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Re: chainsaws..
Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: chainsaws.. From: eastwinddancer Date: 08/19/2009 08:22 Hi Rob, If you could get a vertical splitter, then you don't need to lift the wood off the ground. Archie --- In blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Monitor" wrote: > > YES, I paid $650.00 for it.. It's all oak and like most of it I could handle > but just a few of the logs are so big even when I cut a 16 to 18 inch piece > off the log I can't get it up on to the splitter... > ROB FROM MINNESOTA > - Original Message - > From: Lee A. Stone > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 12:04 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. > > > > Rob , if I may. might ai ask what you paid for that load of wood. . > when I last bought a loat like that in 85 it was $350 green or $450 > seasoned but never all oak. that stuff is a sona of a gun to split by > hand, in my opinion. Lee > > On Tue, Aug 18, 2009 at 10:10:43PM -0500, > Rob Monitor wrote: > > HI, Well I meant the logs are 24 in diameter and I have about 15 of them > I have bin cutting and splitting up the smaller ones just fine but the big > ones I just can't seem to move around that good I'm not a very big guy... > > ROB FROM MINNESOTA > > - Original Message - > > From: clifford > > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 8:47 PM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. > > > > > > Dear Rob: > > If your oak logs are 24 inches around, my math tells me that the logs are > less than eight inches in diameter, and I would think that a section of such > a log can be handled without difficulty. If the measurement is across the end > of the log, then a stick of oak which has a 24 inch diameter and is a foot > and a half long can be a load. I would suggest rolling the stick in to > position on your log splitter and hitting the button. Making a ramp, if > necessary, would be easier than splitting by hand, unless you are pretty good > with a mall > > or as we call them here in hillbilly country, a go-devil. > > If oak has nice straight grain, splitting a block which is only eighteen > inches long with a mall > > should be fairly easy. My go-devil comes in at seven or eight pounds, and > on straight grained oak, a very satisfying sound accompanies the splitting of > the block with one strong strike. > > When the grain is all squirrelly, then time to role the block to the > hydraulic splitter. > > > > Yours Truly, > > > > Clifford Wilson > > - Original Message - > > From: Rob Monitor > > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 3:29 PM > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws.. > > > > HI, What I'm wondering is can a guy cut a log the long way with a > chainsaws with out hurting the saw or himself?? Why I'm asking this is I have > a lot of oak logs that are about 24 inches around and up from there... So > when I cut a 16 to 18 inch off the log I can't move it myself to put in the > wood splitter... So I was thinking that if I cut down the long way on the log > then cut the 16 to 18 inch piece it would be in two pieces then maybe I could > move it... > > THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 4346 (20090818) __ > > > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > > > http://www.eset.com > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > -- > Ocean, n.: > A body of water occupying about two-thirds of a world made for > man -- who has no gills. > . > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > what is a vertical splitter thanks.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets & Hole Saws
I have to agree with Tom, and I have an experience to share. I was cutting plastic on a drill press withb one of those adjustable cutters, and for what ever reason my work shifted ever so slightly, and the arm of the hool hit the c clamp I was using. The press was at a fairly high rpm, and the impact was enough to break the chuck and tool free of the spindle, and I swair I heard a whistle as they sailed by my right ear. Nothing serious happened, but I was alone at the time and had I been injured, it's hightly likely I wouldn't have been missed for several days. uck free of the spindle. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets & Hole Saws From: Tom Fowle Date: 08/06/2009 14:32 O.K. I have to say it, fly cutters are intended for drill presses. Every professional machinist I've asked about them say they are the most dangerous tool they know of. I can't imagine holding a hand drill stable enough to get a round hole with one. A good hole saw is the tool for hand work. Tom Fowle
RE: [BlindHandyMan] New router: was new toy
Dan and all: Is it possible to use one of these, or a larger router to cut grooves in metal, or is that something that requires a lathe? Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New router: was new toy From: Dan Rossi Date: 06/18/2009 08:42 Dale can tell you more about what you can do with the Bosch Colt router, but I plan on trying it out to see if I can cut a profile on a 2X6 in the shape of my basement floor using the edge guide. Basically, it is a small hand-held router. Probably great for edge trimming and such. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New toy.
'dale: The compac compacters I know about had wheels on the rear of them for moving the thing around while not actually compacting. and if I remember right, moving them while working was pretty challenging. Does the wheel kit you have cause the wheels to make contact with the surface while the machine is tamping? Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New toy. From: Dale Leavens Date: 06/16/2009 22:09 Well, while on the subject I just ordered a Bomag walk-behind vibratory plate compactor with wheel kit and protective pad for patio stone. They are a lot more expensive here than I see them priced in the States. Hopefully I can sell it again when I am done with it. Now I have to arrange a ride to go buy a bunch of retaining wall blocks and about 3000 square feet of lock stone. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 10:50 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New toy. may I suggest that if you are going to buy something do not stop now because of shipping as the prices will continue to climb. I do not see it in my lifetime of shipping charges coming down. we have a brother who is a long distance hauler and it costs plenty to run a big rig. also I note when I bought something from sears, like the replacement water filter. again the cost of shipping is wait out of line. so when in albany at sears we stop at their large appliance department. all hooks which shuld have those filters ae empty and we are told we wasted the gas. so buy now if you have the money as shipping costs, again will not reduce. Lee On Tue, Jun 16, 2009 at 04:51:32PM -0500, wstep...@everestkc.net wrote: > Speaking of new toys > > I recently bought the talking level and the tactile tape measure from Blindmicemart.com, and though I haven't had time to play with them yet, they look OK. I also bought the talking tire pressure gauge I mentioned, and that is really handy, since the pressure in my garden cart tires was way way lower than it should have been. I got the multimeter we talked about here as well, and after I scan the little bit of documentation there is, I'll doubtless have questions for the luminarians on this great List. > > I've been having trouble finding Schrader valves, though they do have them on Amazon.com if you're willing to pay four times the value of the valve for shipping. > I was told that the reason these are more scarce than in the past is that unless you have a license, you can't buy refrigerant any longer, and that was why say lumber yards used to have them but tend not to unless they trade with a lot of refrigeration contractors. > I have a friend at work who's a good guy and pretty handy and tomorrow at lunch we're going to go to an industrial hardware store on the north side of the Missouri River where I know I can get them. > Enjoy your sawdust Dan, it's always great to get new tools etc. > > > Bill Stephan > Kansas Citty MO > Email: wstep...@everestkc.net > Phone: (816)803-2469 > > > - Original Message - > From: Dan Rossi > Date: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 4:12 pm > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New toy. > > I just ordered one of those spiffy sounding Bosch Colt Palm > > routers, along > > with the edge guide and a set of seven templates. The router and > > edge > > guide were $109 bucks from amazon with free shipping. The > > templates and a > > round subbase for threaded template guides was another 40 bucks. > > Probably > > didn't need the rest, but threw it in there for the hell of it. > > > > The 109 bucks for the router and edge guide was the best I found > > other > > than a refurb unit on CPO Bosch. > > > > Can't wait to make some saw dust with it. > > > > -- > > Blue skies. > > Dan Rossi > > Carnegie Mellon University. > > E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu > > Tel: (412) 268-9081 > > -- Politics is the ability to foretell what is going to happen tomorrow, next week, next month and next year. And to have the ability afterwards to explain why it didn't happen. -- Winston Churchill . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: Sweating pipes: [WAS] Re: [BlindHandyMan] Interesting grounding issue.
Dale, I'd have to show up for that one for sure, and not only for the beer. I think this is one of those things that could be learned fairly easily with the right teacher, i.e. one with some imagination. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Sweating pipes: [WAS] Re: [BlindHandyMan] Interesting grounding issue. From: Dale Leavens Date: 06/10/2009 18:06 Should we maybe create a new handyman convention with a couple of workshop seminars? One could be sweating pipe. Maybe we will convene in Dan's basement with his beer. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 6:44 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Interesting grounding issue. Yeah, it would seriously suck if all your efforts resulted in a leak. That is why I also have not attempted to take this on myself. I got a couple of valves I want to replace as well, but I need to get someone in here who can do the job. I still have a goal of trying to learn to sweat pipes. On Jun 10, 2009, at 2:30 PM, Dan Rossi wrote: > > > Lee, > > I actually have two main shut-off valves inside the house. One of > them is > right before the meter. It is a big four inch, cast iron wheel. The > water line then goes up, then straight down the length of the > basement. > Someone installed a regular shut-off valve in the middle of that line > before it branches anywhere. I want to change that big old cast iron > valve with a ball valve, then, remove the shut-off that is in the > middle > of nowhere. > > If I had any cohones I would just do the work myself. But, I've never > sweated a fitting in my life. I'd like to try, but I don't think > Teresa > would be as enthusiastic. I'd be pretty nervous myself. > > -- > Blue skies. > Dan Rossi > Carnegie Mellon University. > E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu > Tel: (412) 268-9081 > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hanging an antenna
Thanks jim this sounds like a plan to me. I never would have thought of the weed eater line so thanks for that idea again. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hanging an antenna From: cheetah Date: 05/08/2009 16:41 hi another thing you can do to keep it up where it belongs is to hang another support line with the wire. I like using weedeater line you can buy it by the huge spool this stuff is strong. I have had an antenna hung up using this stuff to tie it down and it has been up for over 8 years and the sun hasn't eaten it yet. here' is what you do. lay out the wire and the weedeater line next to each other. then go along it and tie them together. using zip strips or what ever you want then tie the weedeater line to the supports and tie it tight. then tie the antenna up using some more line. then when the ice comes the line will take the strain. we used this idea to support my coax to my tower when I had one that is. but instead of the line we used guy cable wire that was 3 eights thick. that never came down grin. but for an antenna you don't want to do that. the line will work grate. Jim in Minnesota [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Ladder question
Thanks Bob, I'm on it. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Ladder question From: Bob Kennedy Date: 02/09/2009 21:01 You might want to check out the combination style. They are part step and part extension. You can open it up and raise the extension part so you can use the ladder in a stairway. You can raise the extension and have a long ladder. Then there are things I don't even know you can use it for. Check out the ads for the Giant Genie I think it is. You can turn it into scaffolding, platforms and all kinds of cool things. And they are welded instead of riveted. Get great ratings. - Original Message - From: wstep...@everestkc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 3:52 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Ladder question Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469All: Now that I have the fancy radio, I feel the need to devise bigger and better antennas to see what works best. This is more difficult than it should be because of where the house is located on our property and how it faces. In any case, I need to buy a ladder for this and other tasks. I'm not all that comfortable with a basic extension ladder simply because I obviously can't see what I'm about to lean it against. I'm familiar with the basic step ladder concept, but I believe there are some other options out there that might make more sense. I want something that's going to be stable, and that I can use on surfaces other than say a flat floor. Do any of you have suggestions or experience with what types of ladders are available and what their merrits might be? Thanks in advance for any help with this. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] now what is the last word on mold?
Spiro: I had a mould problem in the basement last year. The most effective thing I did was to get one of those reusable spray cans from Harbor Freight, and fill it halfway with air from my compresser and halfway with a chlorox solution of 1 to 1 chlorox and water. I realize this is a stronger solution than what is generally recommended, but it worked very quickly. Another thing I did was to introduce about a pint of the same solution into the lkines that drain my air conditioner and dehumidifier, which did a nice job of cleaning out the floor drain and presumably the pipes as well. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] now what is the last word on mold? From: Spiro Date: 02/03/2009 01:44 I've written about the basement water. It was ground water. No supply pipe there at all. We dug with a back hoe down to 8ft, and found more and more big rocks which were glued together with mud. Dirt sat atop them and sifted down between them in the 50 years since the place was built. So we sealed, and tar'd the wall and started filling with gravel. A cement deck was poured, and at about 6ft, a sump basin and well was set. A french drain was placed to let water run into the basin and more stone was poured around that. dirt was poured in from about 3 ft deep and the pumps outlet is running donwhill to a storm gutter 20 ft away. Seems rain and ground water were meeting where the old french drain could no longer allow freedom. So, after about a year of this, I've removed the wet wood, and have exposed 6,4 by 3ft of cement wall behind the knotty pine pannels. I have gray to black marks on the cement from about 1ft high down to about 4 inches high for about 3 ft of wall. I've sprayed it with the spray the plumber left me. I don't know if it's invalid mold now; but I've since sprayed it with glass and tile cleaner in a 1 to 1 concentrate from a 5 to 1 bottle. Did I hear somewhere that the magic primer *Kilz* will put a complete end to mold? If not, what will, and trust me, I need do it before I place anything in that hole. I'll wait till summer if I must. So what is the final answer in ultimately finishing this mold? Thanks
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shoveling Snow?
When we have that wet packy snow, I spray my shovel with silacone, it seems to help. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shoveling Snow? From: Scott Howell Date: 01/28/2009 18:17 Yeah and if there is a threat of rain/ice on top of the snow, wait till all the crap falls and then deal with it. I made the mistake of shoveling the other day and damned if it didn't dump freezing rain on my nice clean sidewalk. I ended up busting a piece off the shovel trying to clear the sidewalk. Well probably was a total wast of time considering all the rain that fell today is probably going to freeze tonight. So, there's just no hope of getting around it this time. Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net On Jan 28, 2009, at 5:53 PM, Mike Rusk wrote: > Shoveling snow is probably like operating a computer, there are many > ways and it depends on the type of snow fall. Some use a sweeping > motion and others use a scooping motion. If you scoop, you want to > make sure and use your legs and not your back, or you will hate > yourself the next morning. I have a new shovel which has a slightly > bent handle so you can use it more like a plow and push the snow. > I use the sweeping motion for the lighter dry snow but for the > heavier wet snow, I use a shallow scooping method, or like I said, > the new shovel lets me push the snow away. > If I am doing a driveway, I try to get after it before cars drive > over it as they tend to pack it down. > I had an electric snow blower for a while, but it wasn't much better > than a hand shovel, and it ate my cord, so went back to my old shovel. > Whichever way you choose to do it, dress warm, try to get started > before it gets too deep and if the snow is wet and packs, you might > need to knock the shovel a few times to get the snow off the shovel. > > - Original Message - > From: Claudia > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 7:16 AM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shoveling Snow? > > Hi, > > I'm not usually the snow shoveler in our family, but I would like > someone to > describe the technique to me. > We have had so much snow here this winter, and I'm trying to give my > better > half a break! > > Thanks. > > Claudia > > Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, > while > the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues. > our-safe-haven-subscr...@googlegroups.com > makinghouseworkeasier-subscr...@googlegroups.com > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Foot switches
Matt: I bought a real cheap one of these from Harbor Freight, though I can't recall what I paid for it. Mine doesn't have the protection feature that Lenny's does, so I have it in series with the power strip my drillpress is plugged in to and I leave it in the closed position unless I actually am using it in conjunction with the drillpress or bench grinder which is on the same power strip. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Foot switches From: Matt Date: 01/26/2009 14:40 Hi all, What can you tell me of foot switches or floor switches? I have just heard of the idea. Never used one. Accept for in a typing class with a tape recorder once. I hear they make them for tools. Where would I get one? I suppose you just turn your tool's switch to on, plug it into the foot switch and then plug the foot switch into the wall and that's how it works right? Thanks, Matt [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Braille compass
I tend to take the reading while I'm walking, then stop to open the lid and lock the card in place. It takes some practice, but it's pretty doable. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Braille compass From: cheetah Date: 01/21/2009 17:10 hi tom pretty flat, but its no big deal. you just pull it out of your pocket hold it flat say for 2 seconds not even then flip it open. its pretty fast. if your really not sure of your direction hold it longer before opening. Jim [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Braille compass
Well, it's true they do have to be pretty level, but they really are reliable, and $45 is a really good price. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Braille compass From: Gary Hale Date: 01/21/2009 16:18 Hi Tom and all, I appreciate your advice--especially since I've never used a Braille compass. I did go ahead and order it, partly because they only had five of them left in stock at the reduced price ($45.00 instead of its regular price at $69.00) and partly because I recently wandered onto someone's property by accident. From my perspective, it was like someone put a garage door in the middle of the street. The owner was friendly and very helpful, but it was embarrassing. In that particular case, I was ninety degrees off course, and walking on an open area like Terry described earlier. A compass might have helped. Maybe not, but who knows? Hey Jim - Is your Brunton difficult to keep level enough for a good reading? I suppose Dan and I will find out in a week or so. Gary in TX > -Original Message- > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On > Behalf Of Tom Fowle > Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 3:14 PM > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Braille compass > > Hi Gary, > I havn't tried this specific one but have seen such over the years. > They're better than nothing if you have the time and patience to stop, hold > the thing very level, open and look. > > Usually they have to be held within a very few degrees of level so as > to allow the card to spin on its needle bearing freely. > > So, it's of no use trying to follow a course or read whilee > moving. If you have any trouble telling where > level is, or following a straight course once you've found it, > then the thing will probably not help much. > > Hope this gives you some idea whether it'll fit your needs. > > Tom Fowle > > >
RE: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam.
Dan: We used to have a couple magnetic drill presses specifically meant for what you're thinking about. The ones we had had a 3/4 inch chuck and an extremely powerful electromagnet in the base. Obviously, the magnet operated independently of the drill motor. I think ours were made by Black and Decker. A good equipment rental outfit ought to have one of these. We provided a piece of chain or cable with ours after one was destroyed when the power went out unexpectedly. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] perforating an I beam. From: Dan Rossi Date: 01/13/2009 10:22 OK, this is probably a silly question. I know that you can perforate a joist to run piping or wiring. Can you perforate the web of a steel I beam for the same? If so, what would you use to drill through that sucker? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question
Thanks Tom, who'd have thought it. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question From: Tom Fowle Date: 01/13/2009 13:51 I have a thing for starting nails that is like a thick pair of plyers with various sized holes through the business end Thus when you open the plyers you open each hole in half. Grab a nail in the appropriate hole and hold the device against the surface, start the nail, and open the plyers to remove them. Havn't used it much cause I hate nails, but it seems to work. Believe got it from Harbor Freight Tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question
Never would have thought of a clothes pin Bob, thanks. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question From: Bob Kennedy Date: 01/11/2009 19:55 I just stand the nail on end and drop the nailer over it. The key is light pressure until it starts. Come to think of it, I never apply much pressure to the nailer itself. As long as it is pounding away that has always been enough. If you're wanting to start a nail with a hammer or don't like the feel of the nail vibrating in your hand, think about using a spring loaded clothes pin to hold the nail. There is already a notch in the pin or the clothes line and it will hold a nail as well. - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 7:52 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Palm nailer and a question Well, I finally had time to unpack and test out the palm nailer I finally got last week from Harbor Freight. I really like it. AS has been said here, you can really screw up a nail if you don't start it off straight, so here's a question. I'd think a piece of pipe or tubing the diameter of the nail head you're using with a tightly fitting solid rod inserted in the pipe or tubing would be an excellent way to start nails off on the straight. You could just tap the solid rod a couple times, and then take ofer with the nailer. Does anybody know if something like this is available commercially? Has anybody fabricated a nail starter on their own? Enlightenment will be appreciated. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Physics and Cooking Go Together
Well Dale, I do it too, but I guess at least according to my safety guy, we're just livin' on the edge. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Physics and Cooking Go Together From: Dale Leavens Date: 01/08/2009 17:17 Oh, We reheat and boil water in the microwave frequently. I was told how to wonderfully poach an egg that way. That involves boiling water. Even if you use a tea bag though you really must boil the water first then pour it over the tea. Anything less makes disgusting tea. Janet and I have just finished the dishes after supper and she has just placed a fresh pot on the table as we listen to CBC Radio, The World at Six and wait for Coronation Street to begin. I may pour out a cup much later and rewarm it in the microwave though. - Original Message - From: Bill Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 5:58 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Physics and Cooking Go Together Yeah, I wasn't gonna say anything about this but, I remember several years back having to wallow through a rather long safety bulletin about the extreme dangers of boiling liquid in a microwave. I seem to recall that the boilingest part resides either in the center or near the bottom of the vesel, and that if you were unlucky enough to cause the liquid to move in a certain way, you could cause a sort of erruption, and could easily get scalded. At least in Victor's case though, it's just the microwave dish that's being scalded, not him. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Physics and Cooking Go Together From: Barry Levine Date: 01/08/2009 16:29 Sometimes, rather than seek a shortcut fix for what seems to be a problem, we have to go back to the way our fathers, grandfathers, and fathers before them did certain things. Drill drivers are fine. Pneumatic nailers are fine. Table saw blades which stop at the hint of a touch of flesh are wonderful things. Laser levelers are fine. Talking tape measures are wonderful. But, a teabag in a plastic cup in the microwave is an abomination. At the least, it's not something to admit on a public list. Victor, it'll be quite some time before your credibility is regained. --Barry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Physics and Cooking Go Together
Yeah, I wasn't gonna say anything about this but, I remember several years back having to wallow through a rather long safety bulletin about the extreme dangers of boiling liquid in a microwave. I seem to recall that the boilingest part resides either in the center or near the bottom of the vesel, and that if you were unlucky enough to cause the liquid to move in a certain way, you could cause a sort of erruption, and could easily get scalded. At least in Victor's case though, it's just the microwave dish that's being scalded, not him. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Physics and Cooking Go Together From: Barry Levine Date: 01/08/2009 16:29 Sometimes, rather than seek a shortcut fix for what seems to be a problem, we have to go back to the way our fathers, grandfathers, and fathers before them did certain things. Drill drivers are fine. Pneumatic nailers are fine. Table saw blades which stop at the hint of a touch of flesh are wonderful things. Laser levelers are fine. Talking tape measures are wonderful. But, a teabag in a plastic cup in the microwave is an abomination. At the least, it's not something to admit on a public list. Victor, it'll be quite some time before your credibility is regained. --Barry
Re: [BlindHandyMan] cheap tools was Drill press advice.
Somethimes though, what makes a tool cheap or perhaps of less quality is inviting. I bought a light weight cheap table saw last Summer precisely because I can move it easily. I have to use this on a rather uneven surface, so wheels, unless they were adjustable, aren't really an option. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drill press advice. From: Dale Leavens Date: 01/07/2009 21:25 Mine isn't anything like that powerful and I have never been close to stalling it. Occasionally the extra drill travel is nice and sometimes I expect the extra swing too. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 9:58 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Drill press advice. Sorry, I sent the previous message before I was done. I am comparing two Grizzly presses. The Grizzly G7944 Motor: 3/4 H.P., single-phase, 110V Overall height: 64" Spindle travel: 3-1/4" Number of speeds: 12 Drill chuck: 1/8"-5/8" Spindle taper: MT #2 Range of speeds: 140, 260, 320, 380, 480, 540, 980, 1160, 1510, 1650, 2180, 3050 RPM Swing: 14" Drilling capacity: 3/4" steel Table: Precision ground cast iron Table size: 11-3/8" sq. Table swing: 360 Table tilts: 90 in both directions Approx. shipping weight: 172 lbs. Grizzly G7947 Motor size: 1 H.P., Single-Phase, 110V/220V Overall height: 64-1/2" Swing: 17" Spindle travel: 4-3/4" Number of speeds: 12 Drill chuck: 5/8" Spindle taper: MT #3 Range of speeds: 210, 310, 400, 440, 630, 670, 1260, 1430, 1650, 2050, 2350, 3300 RPM Drilling capacity: 1" steel Table: Precision ground cast iron Table size: 13-5/8" sq. Table tilts: 90 in both directions Approx. shipping weight: 275 lbs. Am I just being Tim the Tool Man Taylor by looking at the larger drill press? Do I really need that much machine? The one thing that really makes me like it is the additional spindle travel, 3 and a quarter verses 4 and 3 quarters. Plus some additional throat depth and a little more power. But will I really need that? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] drill press locking mechanism
I have a smallish benchtop Delta too, and it seems to have all the features you guys have been talking about. I have to change speeds manually, by moving the belt, but I do that so infrequently it's not really a problem. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] drill press locking mechanism From: john schwery Date: 01/08/2009 06:08 My Delta is a bench top and I like it. Wi6th my collar type depth stop, I can lower the quill and set the stop so the quill will not raise. Nice for lowering the bit to get it closer to the work. earlier, Dale Leavens, wrote: >Well, consider price too. > >While my old Delta doesn't have a lock as such it does lock at top >and bottom of travel. For set-up though I generally raise the table >up close then raise the material to the tip of the bit and feel my >way into the punch mark. > >If you have a few bucks left over you might like to consider a good >X Y axis sliding vise. I rather wish I had one and one day doubtless I shall. > >You might be satisfied too with a bench height press. Mine is a >floor model and I don't regret that particularly except that so far >I have never needed more than about two feet of height. In a small >shop the cabinet under the press might well be welcome. > >The question is, as always, what do you require of a drill press. >usually it is repeatable precision drilling. > >- Original Message - >From: Dan Rossi >To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com >Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 9:17 PM >Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] drillpress locking mechonism > >Dale, > >All the models I looked at have a depth stop. They do not all have a quill >lock though. So, you cannot lower the spindle and lock it in place while >you adjust your material. > >There is a smaller lighter Grizzly as well, but if I am going to ignore >some of the negative reviews, I might as well go with the delta. Griz got >a few negative reviews as well. So, woe is me. What to do? What to do? > >The biggest negative on the larger Griz is just going to be man handling >that beast up all the damn stairs. I can probably do it in pieces though. > >-- >Blue skies. >Dan Rossi >Carnegie Mellon University. >E-Mail: <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu>d...@andrew.cmu.edu >Tel: (412) 268-9081 > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com >Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.5/1882 - Release Date: >1/8/2009 8:13 AM John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] antenna question
OK, I'll use the glass jar I drink the cheap scotch out of. Thanks for the info. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] antenna question From: cheetah Date: 12/31/2008 13:01 yep lightning loves long wires connected to a radio hooked to ground. I know a grill is sitting on the ground but its not the same. so just disconnect it and stick the end in a glass jar. it should be good. but remember with lightning all bets are off. Jim [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] antenna question
I'm really curious about this. I've heard lightning warnings from a lot of sources, and yes we do have some really spectacular storms, we Saturday morning with serious lightning, 80 mph winds then a dramatic drop in temps and snow and freezing rain. Is a wire antenna more attractive to lightning than say your barbecue grill? I'm just asking here, and fortunately I did have the radio disconnected during the storm. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] antenna question From: cheetah Date: 12/31/2008 10:51 hi well now you have your new radio running and your new long wire out there on the fence. remember you need to unhook that wire come spring time when ever a storm is in the area. believe me you do not want to see the lightning in your house. it is loud, smoky and tends to throw little pieces of radio or in my case computer all over the room. it majorly sucks Jim [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] need advice about humidifiers
I also have an April Air hole house humidifier and have had older portables as well. I suppose if you had something other than fan forced heat a hole house unit might not be appropriate, but for a basic fan forced heating system, they're great. I believe the one I have adjusts its output to some degree based on ambient humidity, and as Scott says the maintenance is minimal. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] need advice about humidifiers From: Scott Howell Date: 12/30/2008 15:16 Well I'll tell you that whoever made that statement that the furnace- mounted units do not work well is quite wrong. I've used both the portable units and I currently have a furnace-mounted or whole house unit. I would gladly spend the money and purchase the whole-house unit again should mine ever break. First it does depend upon what model you purchase and the one I have is made by April Air and costs about $400. Now that may seem like a lot, but considering I've gone through a couple of the portable models, I probably spent that much and did not accomplish what the whole-house unit has and can. My unit sits off the output side of the furnace and there is a piece of duct that runs from the intake side to the humidifier and puts moysture into the air. The unit has a valve that is electrically controlled to feed water through the system. It has no fan or other moving parts so is very easy to maintain, really little to go wrong with it, and is pretty easy to take care of. Matter of fact, you just replace the filter once a season or so and possibly more if it's really needed. Now yes, you do need somewhere for the excess water to go as it drips through the system. You can dump this into a sink or wherever you dump the water from the AC. Ok, this got rather lengthy, but the point I'm making here is the portable units can cover only so much area and I'd argue the efficiency of these units based on the square footage they claim to cover. If this is an open area with no walls etc. it would probably do a pretty good job. The whole-house systems can put moysture in the air that flows to each vent in the home, thus covering a larger area more effectively. SInce I've used both,, I found the whole-house systems to work very efficiently and I didn't have to keep filling them up or cleaning them regularly. I used to clean the portable units no less than once a week or they would surely start to stink and get all nasty inside. So, as far as programming, not having a clue what you got to work with, most if it's a digital unit will start at about 45 or 50 percent humidity. You may very well be fine with this, but understand that most only measure the humidity of the air in the immediate area and not measuring what is coming in to the overall system. You will find nearly all portable units blow cold air because the water is cold. The whole-house unit I have is connected to the hotwater side and thus the air is warmed a bit as a result and that is a really good thing. Oh btw, no, we don't get any mist or white powder etc on our stuff as a result of using the unit and some have complained about this. That is do to the type of unit and I forget what those are. So, back to your problem. You might try turning the fan down to help with the noise and cold feeling of the air. However, as far as the controls, not sure what to say without knowing more about the unit. Hope that rambling bit was of some value. On Dec 30, 2008, at 1:43 PM, Jo Taliaferro wrote: > Hi everybody, > I have a humidifier that's supposed to work for up to 700 square > feet of > space. First, I can't see to program the thing, second, the fan blew > cold > air out all night, and third, does anyone know whether there's some > way for > me to know what the humidity is in my house? I'm in snow country in > MN, > right now and even though we're having a winter storm, the air feels > dry as > a bone. We have a gas furnace and I'm told that humidifiers attached > to the > furnace don't work very well. My husband and I are both blind and he > has no > idea what brand we have. The thing is unwieldy to manage and I don't > know > at what level to set the thing for comfort. Our sighted assistant > just left > for Florida...RATS!!! Where can I go for info? Guess who does the home > repair and maintenance in this household? No, he doesn't!!! I just > need > some guidance. Thanks to all the men and women on this handy list! > > Jo Taliaferro, empowering people to live with their choices > > > Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Circ saws.
Dan: I have a Skil worm drive left handed saw, and yep, it weighs a lot. I'm righthanded, so it's sometimes a pain to have what you're cutting fall in front of you instead of off to the right more or less. I have heard the worm drive units don't kick back as much as the direct drive ones do, but that's just hearsay. If you're planning to use the saw to cut something where you need to apply water while cutting, then a worm drive is probably necessary, but if you're bnot doing that maybe it doesn't make all that much sense given the added weight and cost. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circ saws. From: Dan Rossi Date: 12/29/2008 17:20 So, I got a pretty cheap circ saw for Christmas and returned it today. I am looking for another circ saw to replace it. I already have one cheap saw, so am looking to move up a notch. The more I learn about tools, the more I learn that cheap tools often are more of a headache than they are worth. So, what is the deal with the worm drive saws? Sears had one, but it weighed a ton. Is there really anything I should be looking for besides amps and is the body not made of plastic, like the one I received. Actually, the thing that bothered me about my Christmas present saw, was that there is a thumb button you have to press in before pulling the trigger. That ensures that you can only use it right handed. There are times when using the saw left handed is more convenient. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Another Antenna question
Fortunately I was more or less able to set these things up so that I can access them or replace them fairly easily. Thanks for the suggestion. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Another Antenna question From: Tom Fowle Date: 12/30/2008 10:16 Almost any metalic surface you can get up in the air at all will help. You may have trouble with corosion between the copper wire and the foil due to electrochemical potential differences in the metals, so if it works for a while and goes bad that may be why. You can also try things like metal rain gutters but since the joins between parts of the metal guttering systems will be anything but electrically solid, this may get you more noise than results. the external antenna connections on my old, 1960s Grundig Satelit 5000, are bananasockets, wonder what they use these days. Tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Christmas radios
Spiro, in the perfect world, I'd have so much money I could buy both radios, try them out then give away one, but that's not possible. C Crane, I guess that's the CC you're asking about is supposed to make some really nice stuff. I bought the Grundig just because I'd heard good things about Grundig products. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Christmas radios From: Spiro Date: 12/29/2008 07:58 Do you guys find this better than the C.C.Radio? I have a Sony 650 that beats that thing, in one room of the house. Elsewhere it's very good. On Thu, 25 Dec 2008, Ron Yearns wrote: > Will William, Santa was good to me the Eaton , Satellite 750 was under the > tree for me. Yes it apppears it is going to be a task to learn to operatee > it well I am already impressed. I had been listening to Carrolton, 100.7 FM > and only one radio in the house could get it . only upstairs and still had > lots of problem with intereference from a 101 FM station from Harrisonville. > This little jewel brings it in with no problem. And we hadn't even found the > pull out antenna yet. Also brings in the 1450 khz Warrensburg station with > very tgood clarity during the day. Now I can keep up with the local news > from where I moved from. It has a rotating loop antenna on top for the AM to > help in the turning. Good luck with yours. > Ron > - Original Message - > From: William Stephan > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 6:59 PM > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Another Antenna question > > > Nah, mine I think came from an outfit called Universal Radio Ron, it's > pretty nice, but some of it is still a mystery until I can get somebody with > eyes to look at the thing. > > I already accidentally reset the thing because I guessed wrong about what > side of the tuning nob the fast tuning button was on, and now I have to > recalibrate the A.M. band for US spacing since it defaults to Eurpean. > > And, I can't do that until I figure out the keypad. Do any of you have > suggestions for reading buttons? I used a KNFB reader, and it got some of > them, but since the formatting's screwed up, it's not very helpful. I tried > an Optacon, but can't make sense of it that way either. It sure would be > nice if somebody'd make these things talk. > > -Original Message- > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] > On Behalf Of Ron Yearns > Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 16:41 > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Another Antenna question > > Ah so you are the lucky guy that got the 750 from Associated Radio. I looked > at one a few weeks ago and called, but it had sold. Of course he can get > another. Hope Santa has gotten the hint. For your antenna I don't know for > sure I think either will do for the listening side of radio. There is a skin > effect at various frequencies. It is more pronouced at the higher one goes > and this has a affect on current flow and if so stranded would be the better > choice. Happy listening. > Ron > - Original Message - > From: William Stephan > To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 1:53 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Another Antenna question > > All: > > The receiver I recently purchased, which is a Grundig Satellit 750, seems to > be mostly accessible. I'm going to ultimately have to get some sighted > assistance to figure out the keyboard, but it looks doable. So, I'm going > to run some long wire antennas, and was wondering what kind of wire I should > be using. I have a roll of speaker wire I could split, but I seem to > remember that braded wire is best. Anybody know if that's right? > > Thanks in advance. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Measuring devices
If I could only have one, it'd be the rotomatic simply because it's accurate to at least 1/64th whereas the click rule is only really good to the 16th. It's probably quicker to just take a measurement with the click rule though, and I actually do have both. I have no experience with a talking tape so can't really comment on it. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Measuring devices From: Keith Christian Date: 12/29/2008 14:17 Thanks for your replies on measuring and creating jigs. If you were going to purchase a measuring device for use with a table saw, chop saw and router, which one would you start with and why? I am not going to be able to purchase all of them at one time. So, I will start with purchasing just one. Here is a description of each one I am considering. They are available from NFB. If you know of other sources or other brands, I'd be interested in hearing about them. EXTENSION MEASURING TOOL--CLICK RULE: An efficient tactile measuring device that measures up to 12 inches with accuracy of 1/16 of an inch. Three 12-inch extensions allow measurement up to 4 feet. This device consists of four major parts: 1/2-inch aluminum tube, sliding threaded rod, locking screw, 1/4-inch-thick metal stop. AID01R $65.00 EXTENSION MEASURING TOOL--ROTOMATIC: This tool comes with a base measuring rod of 6 1/4 inches with three extension rods (measuring 6, 12, and 18 inches each) and a locking nut which allows measurement up to 3 1/2 feet. The nut moves on the threaded base rod in which the threads are 1/16 inch apart. One 1/4 turn of the nut equals 1/64 inch. AID04R $50.00 MEASURING TAPE--TALKING: This unit measures up to 16 feet (5 meters) and comes with print instructions. Uses one 9V battery (included). AID06T $99.00 Thanks, Keith
Re: [BlindHandyMan] harbor freight palm nailer
Lenny and all: another thing I like about Harbor Freight is that they always have a link to download the owner's manual to their tools, and typically, I do that even before I decide to buy something. I'll send you the manual when I get home (I'm on the bus headed there now), but I think I recall reading that the Allan wrench is only for repairs and cleaning, and that you're supposed to put a couple drops of pneumatic tool in the thing prior to using. Happy birthday and merry xmas. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] harbor freight palm nailer From: Lenny McHugh Date: 12/24/2008 15:25 air - Original Message - From: "Brice Mijares" To: Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 3:09 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] harbor freight palm nailer are these palm nailers electric or air? - Original Message - From: "Lenny McHugh" To: "handyman-blind" Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 11:52 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] harbor freight palm nailer > Bill, Thanks for all of the information about the harbor freight palm > nailer, as expected it was a birthday gift. From the size of the box and > the > weight it was an easy guess. Looking at it I do have a few questions that > someone will have to read to me from the enclosed literature. There is a > bag > with an allen wrench and a large washer. Have to find out what they are > for. > I did not feel a trigger, is it automatic when depressed on a nail? > Karen told me that I gave her a lot of problems trying to purchase it. She > confiscated the information that you sent and took it to the store. In the > store it is $39.99 and your information was $29.99. The guy at the store > told her that if she would print the add from the web page they would > price > match. Again they can not look up anything on the web site. Everytime she > wanted to find it I was using the computer or asking what she was looking > for?Finally she was able to print the ad and took it to the store, Along > with the price match they also honored a 15% off one item coupon that I > had. > The girl did good.. > BTW today I turned 62, now if I can only figure out what I want to do when > I > grow up. > --- > Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous > with many resources for the blind. > http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ > Lenny > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links __ NOD32 3716 (20081224) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna construction question
Max, I haven't seen the receiver, but the manual which I just got today says there are two jacks for long wires, one's for the antenna and the other's a ground. It also has jacks for manufactured antennas, probably like Tom mentioned. Thanks. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna construction question From: Max Robinson Date: 12/16/2008 12:22 Does your receiver have two antenna connections or an antenna and a ground? A loop antenna has two wires coming out so that's no problem. A single wire antenna by definition has only one wire and will work much better if worked against a ground. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: "William Stephan" To: Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 10:01 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna construction question > Max: > > What if I'm using a battery-operated receiver and want to have an external > antenna. Would I use two wires? I had thought the leads that typically > come with a receiver were just one wire, but maybe I'm wrong. If I'm > using > two wires, would I just connect the ends together at the far end of the > antenna? > > Thanks for any illumination. > > > > > > -Original Message- > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] > On Behalf Of Max Robinson > Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 20:57 > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna construction question > > > > You don't ground the antenna. You ground the ground terminal of the > receiver, if it has one. That gives the antenna something to work against. > Having an antenna without a ground is like trying to operate a light bulb > from one wire. You always need two wires to make a complete circuit. Some > types of balanced antennas, such as those for FM and TV, don't need a > ground > > to work. Their lead-in has two wires already. Some receivers will ground > themselves through the power line. > > Regards. > > Max. K 4 O D S. > > Email: m...@maxsmusicplace. <mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com> com > > Transistor site http://www.funwitht <http://www.funwithtransistors.net> > ransistors.net > Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwitht <http://www.funwithtubes.net> > ubes.net > Music site: http://www.maxsmusi <http://www.maxsmusicplace.com> cplace.com > > To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, > funwithtubes- <mailto:funwithtubes-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com> > subscr...@yahoogroups.com > > - Original Message - > From: "William Stephan" <mailto:wstephan%40everestkc.net> net> > To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 7:30 PM > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna construction question > >> Thanks to all who have answered this one for me. Can somebody explain how >> to and why we should ground antennas? If memory serves, when I have >> touched >> an antenna wire to a ground, like plumming say, the signal went away >> entirely. So, what am I missing? >> >> >> >> Thanks again. >> >> >> >> >> >> -Original Message- >> From: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com] >> On Behalf Of Max Robinson >> Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 23:55 >> To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > yahoogroups.com >> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna construction question >> >> >> >> Hi William. >> >> You could fill an entire library with books written about antennas. What >> you describe is known as a loop antenna. However the length you had would >> have been very good for frequencies from 10 to 50 kHz, and the efficiency >> would fall off at higher frequencies. Also the orientation is important. >> For AM broadcast the box should have been oriented vertical and rotated >> for >> best reception of the particular station. I have tried making loop >> antennas >> out of that telephone wire and they never worked very well. I think the >> insulation used is very lossy at radio frequencies. After all, the stuff >> was nev
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna construction question
I didn't know there were active antennas like that available Tom, so thanks, I'll check into these. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna construction question From: Tom Fowle Date: 12/16/2008 12:57 Bill, It gets a little complex, but actually by connecting the parallel wires in a coil like that together, you've caused a mighty phase cancelation and \ defeated the purpose of the long wire. What you want is either an antenna that's tuned to the frequency you want to hear, hard because you want them all, or as much wire spread out as much as possible. Even a single wire coiled up is going to look to the radio like a large inductance and not have much area coverage, so won't do much good. I'd spend some extra on an "active" short wave antenna, i think C Crane sells one.. These are a moderately sized whip with an amplifier and some tuning circuitry in the base. It means you have to "peak" the tuner at each frequency you want, but if you can't put up an outdoor long wire, this kind of thing is about as good as you can do. If your home has metal rain gutters you can try a wire out a window to a downspout, but there are issues with non conductive joins and so on so that the results are likely to be varriable at best. There are "resonant' receiving loop antennas but they're good for only a limited frequency band, and are a bit hard to build. Just small loops of wire don't do well at all. Tom Fowle WA6IVG
Re: [BlindHandyMan] creative antenna
'tom, as it happens, I've also got a drain pipe and gutters I might be able to use. This should be fun!!! I've had receivers for most of my life, but haven't for the last ten years or so, and I'm really looking forward to having one again. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] creative antenna From: Tom Fowle Date: 12/16/2008 14:19 If it's metal, and it's high and its outside, you can probably make some kind of antenna out of it. The very important exception being anything to do with the power system. At least once a year there is a note in a ham magazine about guys getting killed while trying to put up some big fancy antenna and having it hit the power lines. Tom WA6IVG
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna construction question
All: thanks for all the clarification. I don't have the reciever yet, but I downloaded the manual and it has a jack for the antenna and another for the ground. The manual says, as Tom mentions that I can just run a ground wire along the floor if it's of equal length to the antenna wire, or I can use the shortest lead possible and connect that to a water pipe. I have a vent pipe pretty close to where this will likely be used, and I assume that will work the same as any other water pipe. I've ben reading some about this, and it seems to be a rather emotional topic for some folks, kind of like dog training I guess. Thanks again. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna construction question From: carl Date: 12/16/2008 14:47 hav you thort of a di poal or a long wire? - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 8:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna construction question william, You don't ground the antenna except in some weird cases. Every antenna is actually two elements, one may be a wire or a vertical whip, and the other is often ground. Or you can have so-called dipoles which are two identical elements end to end. The arguments about what is a real ground go on for ever, but basically if you're doing some kind of wire antenna, the radio will also have a ground connection that needs to be taken care of. You can have a wire "under" the antenna running along the ground, floor or whatever that's the same length as the actual antenna. What you'll most likely do is to run a wire from the radio's ground connection to perhaps a water pipe or even the ground conductor of the electrical system. For general receiving this will do fine. There are truly endless configuration spossible and endless discussions of them good and bad. About all you can say about antennas for sure is that most radios need one. Tom Fowle WA6IVG [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] quartz infrared heaters
Remember too, that no matter how good the heater is,m you're not goinbg to get more than about 5,000 BTUs out of it on a 110 volt circuit. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] quartz infrared heaters From: RJ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 12/09/2008 18:27 , You have to realize that is $60 plus what they spent on fuel oil. They claim they did save money with the fuel oil used and the $60 for the increase in electric. RJ - Original Message - From: "Brice Mijares" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 12:53 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] quartz infrared heaters > RJ, I believe the brand you speak of is the leader in this quartz infrared > technology. 60 bucks a month wouldn't be bad considering the cost of gas > or > oil. > - Original Message - > From: "RJ" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 7:50 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] quartz infrared heaters > > >> Don't know where you can look at one, but a friend bought one this season >> called Eden or something like that. It is propose to heat up to one >> thousand >> sq ft. So far the cost to operate the unit is around $60 per month. Will >> say, the rooms the heater is in, About 14 x 28 ft is the warmest I have >> ever >> felt it. They claimed it has save them money on there fuel oil, but don't >> know if this is a wash or not. >> RJ >> - Original Message - >> From: "Brice Mijares" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> To: >> Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 8:41 AM >> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] quartz infrared heaters >> >> >>> Does anyone know if there is a store where I can walk in and check out >>> these >>> infrared heaters? I hate to purchase something on line this expensive >>> without first physically running my hands all over it. I've did a >>> search >>> on both home depot, and lows without any success. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Send any questions regarding list management to: >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] >>> To listen to the show archives go to link >>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 >>> Or >>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ >>> >>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. >>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday >>> >>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From >>> Various >>> List Members At The Following address: >>> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ >>> >>> Visit the archives page at the following address >>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ >>> >>> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following >>> address for more information: >>> http://www.jaws-users.com/ >>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man >>> list just send a blank message to: >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> Send any questions regarding list management to: >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> To listen to the show archives go to link >> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 >> Or >> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ >> >> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. >> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday >> >> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various >> List Members At The Following address: >> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ >> >> Visit the archives page at the following address >> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ >> >> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following >> address for more information: >> http://www.jaws-users.com/ >> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man >> list just send a blank message to: >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links >> >> >> > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To listen to the show archives go to link
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat
the truth is Spiro, I don't know. The guy just said give me the money or I'll kill you, I grabbed the extinguisher and let it rip, and the guy ran out of the building, it all happened in about ten seconds I think. I had a crew out in our equipment yard but by the time I could get them to look, there was nobody around. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat From: Spiro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 12/04/2008 14:11 Just a tecnical question: If he was going to hold up the store; with what was he going to do it, and how did you keep him from using it? Curiousity strikes. On Mon, 1 Dec 2008, Bill Stephan wrote: > I used one of the dry powder extinguishers > on a guy who was going to hold up a store I ran once when I was younger, and > it really changed his mind in a hurry. We also used to recommend using the > Co2 type for getting tyle or carpet glue off concrete floors, it freezes and > sort of chips off sometimes. > > > Bill Stephan, > Kansas City MO > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Phone: (816)803-2469 > > -original message- > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat > From: Bob Kennedy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 12/01/2008 15:27 > > I've had to do this before under what could be called real shop situations... > CO2 extinguishers are good for bringing the temp of oil or grease fires down > as long as you feather the trigger when squeezing it. Full force you can > spread the fire farther. And remember not to get your fingers or hand in > front of the tube as you spray it. That is nasty cold stuff and it will do > some serious damage to you if you blast your skin. > > I've seen a fire company use it to kill a snake before, so it's good for more > than fires... > > If you use dry chemical, it will put out a cloud too and it will make > breathing very rough for a while. But losing a house or shop is even worse > than breathing trouble. I've lost one to fire before but an extinguisher > wouldn't have helped at all in that case. > > > - Original Message - > From: Tom Fowle > To: blindHandyMan > Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 3:23 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat > > > Hi all. > this may be old hat to some of you experienced folks, but I found the > following interesting. > > I'd always wanted to really try using an extinguisher on a "real" fire. I > wanted to have some idea if I might stand a chance of doing usefull fire > fighting if i drop my soldering iron on a pile of paper or some such. > > However I didn't want to set up a test without professional help just in > case things should get out of hand. > > I found that a niece's new boy friend is a professional fire fighter. When > I met Joe last year, almost the first thing I asked him after a little > introductory chatter was whether he might set up a test fire somewhere and > suggest an extinguisher for me to try. > > This was a year ago and I' hadn't seen Joe since. > > This thanksgiving, we went to my brother's 5 acre place in the country and > Joe was there. I hadn't mentioned my request over the year and figured if > he was interested, he'd bring it up. I wasn't going to ask again. > > Almost the first thing i heard was " Tom I've got an extinguisher for you." > > So, Friday afternoon, we went out to the middle of a gravel coverred area > and Joe got hold of an old cardboard box and a heap of waiste paper. He > really wanted to add a mix of gasoline and diesel, but everyone else thought > that was going a bit far. > > He had an out of date "dry chemical" extinguisher, the type with a pair of > handles you squeeze together and a 1 foot hose you aim at the fire. > > After the fire was going well enough I could readilly feel it from a few > feet away, I held the extinguisher in my left hand, and followed his > instructions. > > they suggest a memory trick using "PASS" > Pull, Aim, Squeeze Sweep. > > Pull, means pull the safety pin, a rod with a circular ring at one end that > goes through the top handle of the extinguisher and keeps it from being > squeezed down when not in use. > > Aim, of course means take the end of the little hose and aim it at the base > of the fire. > > Squeeze, press the two handles together. > > Sweep, means sweep the stream of chemical back and forth across the fire. > > My experience suggests that moving in a flattened oval so the stream moves > "up and down"
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat
It's true, fire's a scarey sound. I got burned out in an arson fire in 1989. this was in a highrise where a transvestite janitor became infuriated because the manager wouldn't sleep with him/her and poured about five gallons of a salvent in his apartment which was directly above mine and lit it off after disabling all the smoke alarms. I was gone at the time of ignition, but it was still burning when I got home. the fire itself was bad enough, but even the water and other suppression methods being used were unnervingly noisey. All the more reason to do as Tom has I guess, and at least get some basic training and familiarity. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat From: Spiro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 12/04/2008 14:22 I had contents of a big plastic trash can go up once. I dragged it to the sink and dumped water into it. But the side melted out and the water escaped. I dragged the remaining mess outside and just elft it in the drive. I cleaned it up later after the basement clean up. I tell this as the sound can easily rattle one. I live across from really tall trees. One of them became a candle a few summers ago. I got off the bus and knew I didn't want to admit to myself what I was hearing. But "roar" is really the word for it. it is a sound that can instil fear without conscious processing. yeah, it's a fire in the woods, and the distance to the house is about the height of the tress last year. But the actual sound, bass roaring does something in the bones. On Mon, 1 Dec 2008, Larry Stansifer wrote: > The co-2 extinguishers will also work well for freezing > ground hornet nests. > > About two years ago I went through a fire suppression course > and the fire department had a large round metal pan that > they would partially fill with water and pore gasoline over > the surface. They would ignite the fuel and I got to nock > down the resulting fire. > Pretty strait foreword if you don't let the fire rattle you. > I also read where NHRA does fire simulation training for the > top fuel and top alcohol dragsters and funny car drivers. > > -Original Message- > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob > Kennedy > Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 4:35 PM > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a > bat > > > I've done that pouter trick too I just figured I was the > only one and didn't want a bunch of extra emails coming in > telling me I was crazy or sick. That's never been in > question... > - Original Message - > From: Bill Stephan > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 6:21 PM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a > bat > > > I used one of the dry powder extinguishers > on a guy who was going to hold up a store I ran once when > I was younger, and it really changed his mind in a hurry. We > also used to recommend using the Co2 type for getting tyle > or carpet glue off concrete floors, it freezes and sort of > chips off sometimes. > > Bill Stephan, > Kansas City MO > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Phone: (816)803-2469 > > -original message- > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a > bat > From: Bob Kennedy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 12/01/2008 15:27 > > I've had to do this before under what could be called real > shop situations... CO2 extinguishers are good for bringing > the temp of oil or grease fires down as long as you feather > the trigger when squeezing it. Full force you can spread the > fire farther. And remember not to get your fingers or hand > in front of the tube as you spray it. That is nasty cold > stuff and it will do some serious damage to you if you blast > your skin. > > I've seen a fire company use it to kill a snake before, so > it's good for more than fires... > > If you use dry chemical, it will put out a cloud too and > it will make breathing very rough for a while. But losing a > house or shop is even worse than breathing trouble. I've > lost one to fire before but an extinguisher wouldn't have > helped at all in that case. > > - Original Message - > From: Tom Fowle > To: blindHandyMan > Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 3:23 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat > > Hi all. > this may be old hat to some of you experienced folks, but > I found the > following interesting. > > I'd always wanted to really try using an extinguisher on a > "real"
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Carbon Monoxide detecters
OK, good to know this, thanks. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Carbon Monoxide detecters From: Lenny McHugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 12/02/2008 16:10 Bill, I have a combination unit upstairs and regular ones in the basement. The combination unit has two different alarm sounds with voice. It repeats either fire or warning carbon monoxide The talking one is a Kidde. I purchased it at Lowes. Also the units in the basement I have so I can easily remove them. There was a warning not to have themaround paint fumes. So when finishing a wood project I slip it into a plastic bag until the fumes are cleared. - Original Message - From: "Bill Stephan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "List, blindhandyman" Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 4:32 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Carbon Monoxide detecters about four years ago I bought a carbon monoxide detector that runs on house current. This was a bad idea and I have no idea what I was thinking about at the time. Anyway, the service tech that did some work on our furnace yesterday suggested to my wife that we should have these detectors on all three levels of the house. I got no problem with that, but wondered if anyone had opinions as to whether it would be better to buy stand alone carbon monoxide detectors or combination carbon monoxide and smoke detectors. Also, my wife said the tech said that these carbon monoxide detectors are only good for about three years. Anybody know if that's true? thanks. all: Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links __ NOD32 3658 (20081202) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com
[BlindHandyMan] Carbon Monoxide detecters
about four years ago I bought a carbon monoxide detector that runs on house current. This was a bad idea and I have no idea what I was thinking about at the time. Anyway, the service tech that did some work on our furnace yesterday suggested to my wife that we should have these detectors on all three levels of the house. I got no problem with that, but wondered if anyone had opinions as to whether it would be better to buy stand alone carbon monoxide detectors or combination carbon monoxide and smoke detectors. Also, my wife said the tech said that these carbon monoxide detectors are only good for about three years. Anybody know if that's true? thanks. all: Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat
amazing how useful these things are. There was a piece in the paper here one day last week where somebody used a CO2 extinguisher to herd a bobcat into a cage at a middle school where it wasn't welcome. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat From: Larry Stansifer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 12/01/2008 18:21 The co-2 extinguishers will also work well for freezing ground hornet nests. About two years ago I went through a fire suppression course and the fire department had a large round metal pan that they would partially fill with water and pore gasoline over the surface. They would ignite the fuel and I got to nock down the resulting fire. Pretty strait foreword if you don't let the fire rattle you. I also read where NHRA does fire simulation training for the top fuel and top alcohol dragsters and funny car drivers. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 4:35 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat I've done that pouter trick too I just figured I was the only one and didn't want a bunch of extra emails coming in telling me I was crazy or sick. That's never been in question... - Original Message - From: Bill Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 6:21 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat I used one of the dry powder extinguishers on a guy who was going to hold up a store I ran once when I was younger, and it really changed his mind in a hurry. We also used to recommend using the Co2 type for getting tyle or carpet glue off concrete floors, it freezes and sort of chips off sometimes. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat From: Bob Kennedy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 12/01/2008 15:27 I've had to do this before under what could be called real shop situations... CO2 extinguishers are good for bringing the temp of oil or grease fires down as long as you feather the trigger when squeezing it. Full force you can spread the fire farther. And remember not to get your fingers or hand in front of the tube as you spray it. That is nasty cold stuff and it will do some serious damage to you if you blast your skin. I've seen a fire company use it to kill a snake before, so it's good for more than fires... If you use dry chemical, it will put out a cloud too and it will make breathing very rough for a while. But losing a house or shop is even worse than breathing trouble. I've lost one to fire before but an extinguisher wouldn't have helped at all in that case. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindHandyMan Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 3:23 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat Hi all. this may be old hat to some of you experienced folks, but I found the following interesting. I'd always wanted to really try using an extinguisher on a "real" fire. I wanted to have some idea if I might stand a chance of doing usefull fire fighting if i drop my soldering iron on a pile of paper or some such. However I didn't want to set up a test without professional help just in case things should get out of hand. I found that a niece's new boy friend is a professional fire fighter. When I met Joe last year, almost the first thing I asked him after a little introductory chatter was whether he might set up a test fire somewhere and suggest an extinguisher for me to try. This was a year ago and I' hadn't seen Joe since. This thanksgiving, we went to my brother's 5 acre place in the country and Joe was there. I hadn't mentioned my request over the year and figured if he was interested, he'd bring it up. I wasn't going to ask again. Almost the first thing i heard was " Tom I've got an extinguisher for you." So, Friday afternoon, we went out to the middle of a gravel coverred area and Joe got hold of an old cardboard box and a heap of waiste paper. He really wanted to add a mix of gasoline and diesel, but everyone else thought that was going a bit far. He had an out of date "dry chemical" extinguisher, the type with a pair of handles you squeeze together and a 1 foot hose you aim at the fire. After the fire was going well enough I could readilly feel it from a few feet away, I held the extinguisher in my left hand, and followed his instructions. they suggest a memory trick using "PASS" Pull, Aim, Squeeze Sweep. Pull, means pull the safe
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat
I used one of the dry powder extinguishers on a guy who was going to hold up a store I ran once when I was younger, and it really changed his mind in a hurry. We also used to recommend using the Co2 type for getting tyle or carpet glue off concrete floors, it freezes and sort of chips off sometimes. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat From: Bob Kennedy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 12/01/2008 15:27 I've had to do this before under what could be called real shop situations... CO2 extinguishers are good for bringing the temp of oil or grease fires down as long as you feather the trigger when squeezing it. Full force you can spread the fire farther. And remember not to get your fingers or hand in front of the tube as you spray it. That is nasty cold stuff and it will do some serious damage to you if you blast your skin. I've seen a fire company use it to kill a snake before, so it's good for more than fires... If you use dry chemical, it will put out a cloud too and it will make breathing very rough for a while. But losing a house or shop is even worse than breathing trouble. I've lost one to fire before but an extinguisher wouldn't have helped at all in that case. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindHandyMan Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 3:23 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat Hi all. this may be old hat to some of you experienced folks, but I found the following interesting. I'd always wanted to really try using an extinguisher on a "real" fire. I wanted to have some idea if I might stand a chance of doing usefull fire fighting if i drop my soldering iron on a pile of paper or some such. However I didn't want to set up a test without professional help just in case things should get out of hand. I found that a niece's new boy friend is a professional fire fighter. When I met Joe last year, almost the first thing I asked him after a little introductory chatter was whether he might set up a test fire somewhere and suggest an extinguisher for me to try. This was a year ago and I' hadn't seen Joe since. This thanksgiving, we went to my brother's 5 acre place in the country and Joe was there. I hadn't mentioned my request over the year and figured if he was interested, he'd bring it up. I wasn't going to ask again. Almost the first thing i heard was " Tom I've got an extinguisher for you." So, Friday afternoon, we went out to the middle of a gravel coverred area and Joe got hold of an old cardboard box and a heap of waiste paper. He really wanted to add a mix of gasoline and diesel, but everyone else thought that was going a bit far. He had an out of date "dry chemical" extinguisher, the type with a pair of handles you squeeze together and a 1 foot hose you aim at the fire. After the fire was going well enough I could readilly feel it from a few feet away, I held the extinguisher in my left hand, and followed his instructions. they suggest a memory trick using "PASS" Pull, Aim, Squeeze Sweep. Pull, means pull the safety pin, a rod with a circular ring at one end that goes through the top handle of the extinguisher and keeps it from being squeezed down when not in use. Aim, of course means take the end of the little hose and aim it at the base of the fire. Squeeze, press the two handles together. Sweep, means sweep the stream of chemical back and forth across the fire. My experience suggests that moving in a flattened oval so the stream moves "up and down" a bit as well as across where you think the fire is, may be a good bet if you can't see the flames at all. Not surprisingly, I had little trouble knocking this relatively minor fire down. Joe had me stop firing several times while he stirred up the fire again to give me several tries. I did have the tendency to knock over the box with the stream of chemical, but this would probably not happen in a more real world situation. One might think about whether you might blow burning material away and spread a fire with a strong stream of stuff. This would further encourage me to believe in the vertical oval movement strategy. In a real fire situation, you don't stop spraying your extinguisher's contents till the thing is empty. Even if you're pretty sure the fire is out, the policy is to empty the device just to be sure. Of course any test like this can't be totally real,, it was controlled and I knew what was going to be burned and where. And, of course I wasn't in a panic. However I believe I at least found i may be able to knock down a fire to the extent that I should c
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat
tom, I've actually thought about doing this, but haven't gotten around to it. Maybe I'll give the public affairs lads at the fire department a call anmd see if there's any interest or willingness. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using fire extinguishers as a bat From: Tom Fowle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 12/01/2008 14:23 Hi all. this may be old hat to some of you experienced folks, but I found the following interesting. I'd always wanted to really try using an extinguisher on a "real" fire. I wanted to have some idea if I might stand a chance of doing usefull fire fighting if i drop my soldering iron on a pile of paper or some such. However I didn't want to set up a test without professional help just in case things should get out of hand. I found that a niece's new boy friend is a professional fire fighter. When I met Joe last year, almost the first thing I asked him after a little introductory chatter was whether he might set up a test fire somewhere and suggest an extinguisher for me to try. This was a year ago and I' hadn't seen Joe since. This thanksgiving, we went to my brother's 5 acre place in the country and Joe was there. I hadn't mentioned my request over the year and figured if he was interested, he'd bring it up. I wasn't going to ask again. Almost the first thing i heard was " Tom I've got an extinguisher for you." So, Friday afternoon, we went out to the middle of a gravel coverred area and Joe got hold of an old cardboard box and a heap of waiste paper. He really wanted to add a mix of gasoline and diesel, but everyone else thought that was going a bit far. He had an out of date "dry chemical" extinguisher, the type with a pair of handles you squeeze together and a 1 foot hose you aim at the fire. After the fire was going well enough I could readilly feel it from a few feet away, I held the extinguisher in my left hand, and followed his instructions. they suggest a memory trick using "PASS" Pull, Aim, Squeeze Sweep. Pull, means pull the safety pin, a rod with a circular ring at one end that goes through the top handle of the extinguisher and keeps it from being squeezed down when not in use. Aim, of course means take the end of the little hose and aim it at the base of the fire. Squeeze, press the two handles together. Sweep, means sweep the stream of chemical back and forth across the fire. My experience suggests that moving in a flattened oval so the stream moves "up and down" a bit as well as across where you think the fire is, may be a good bet if you can't see the flames at all. Not surprisingly, I had little trouble knocking this relatively minor fire down. Joe had me stop firing several times while he stirred up the fire again to give me several tries. I did have the tendency to knock over the box with the stream of chemical, but this would probably not happen in a more real world situation. One might think about whether you might blow burning material away and spread a fire with a strong stream of stuff. This would further encourage me to believe in the vertical oval movement strategy. In a real fire situation, you don't stop spraying your extinguisher's contents till the thing is empty. Even if you're pretty sure the fire is out, the policy is to empty the device just to be sure. Of course any test like this can't be totally real,, it was controlled and I knew what was going to be burned and where. And, of course I wasn't in a panic. However I believe I at least found i may be able to knock down a fire to the extent that I should consider trying an extinguisher if one is available. Of course there a lot of other strategies to fire fighting depending on what's burning, E.G. if it's a grease fire in a pan, just putting a lid on the pan may be enough to do the job. |Dryy chemical extinguishers are good for most fires, the disadvantage of these types is that they leave a powdery mess over everything. [CO2 carbondioxide extinguishers are good for most fires but of course do realease a quantity of co2 into the atmosphere. I don't know of other disadvantages of this type. There are pressurized water units but they should never be used on electrical, grease or flamable liquid fires, so probably aren't a good bet. Hailon is expensive, as are it's new substitutes, and are good for almost all fires, but one must be carefull to get out of the way of the cloud of gas since it makes breathing impossible. I'd suggest, if you work with anything that might go wrong and cause a fire, that you may want to meet a friendly fireman and set up a similar test for your selves just so you'll have a feel for how it all goes. Everyone with a home containing a kitche
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Cane question.
dann, if the other suggestions fail and you want to make a huge mess, try blowing some talcum powder between the grip and the cane. That should loosen things up. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cane question. From: Dan Rossi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 12/01/2008 10:57 Hi, I just recently broke out a new cane. It is a rigid, Aluminum, crook handle cane. The rubber grip is about 2.5 inches down the shaft from the bend. I find it annoying and would like to slide the grip up closer to the bend. The sucker is on there pretty tight though. Any suggestions for how to push the rubber grip up the shaft a bit? Thanks. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved
It's a good point Dale, and one I hadn't thought a lot about. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved From: Dale Leavens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 11/19/2008 19:44 Hi, I think I would be more concerned about what you are walking on. You don't want to be walking around directly on the roofing material, it won't stand up to that and the weather will soon be sneaking through. - Original Message - From: Bill Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 7:16 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved Tom, your paranoya is well placed. Actually, this is a manufactured room, and I'm waiting on specs and a determination as to whether weight is going to be a problem. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved From: Tom Fowle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 11/19/2008 17:49 Just being my old paranoid self, i'd wonder about the strength of a porch roof before railing it. but I too would love a roof platform to go up on. Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people
/And the real irony is that none of the waivers people might sign would be enforceable or binding if push came to shove since they don't satisfy the conditions for being a valid contract. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people From: Dan Rossi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 11/19/2008 20:24 I tried to take a shop class through the local community college. After the first night, I got a call from the school saying that I couldn't take the class. Both Teresa and I were signed up for three classes each, several hundred bucks worth of classes. I said that if I couldn't take shop class, I wanted the money back for all six classes, both Teresa and me. They countered with forcing me to sign a waiver. I grudgingly agreed, but realized pretty quickly I wasn't going to get anywhere in the class, the instructor really wanted nothing to do with me. So I stopped going, and vowed that I would never sign another waiver. I realized later that it was a stupid request. This class was for anyone. Any idiot could walk in off the street, with several fingers missing from previous shop accidents, and take the class without signing a waiver. But I had to. Screw that! I love some of the stories you guys have told about your spouses or girlfriends responses when people start talking to them. Teresa is far too timid to say anything like that, typically I just ignore their stupidity and start answering them. They eventually get the idea. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved
Tom, your paranoya is well placed. Actually, this is a manufactured room, and I'm waiting on specs and a determination as to whether weight is going to be a problem. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved From: Tom Fowle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 11/19/2008 17:49 Just being my old paranoid self, i'd wonder about the strength of a porch roof before railing it. but I too would love a roof platform to go up on. Tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved
My wife and I are seriously considering putting a railing on the flat roof of our porch and creating a sort of martini deck out there. I've been told it can be difficult to obtain a permit for that kind of thing, but I have no idea why. I guess a visit to the zoning department is in the offing. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved From: Lenny McHugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 11/18/2008 19:35 Bob, so you were doing what I call a sick-bird project? an ill eagle. I just had to get one. My next door neighbor replaced a porch pillar and was told that he needed no permit. I just did the same job and had to purchase a $40 permit. Could it be it is because his son is a police officer? - Original Message - From: "chiliblindman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 8:27 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved I had to go to a town meeting tonight about my deck building project. They were kind of worried what was going on since I put the roof on it and had a second floor in it. Since I studded the west wall facing the road it looked like a full blown building and said I needed a permit and had to meet with them. I explained what was going on and it was put on the table, voted and approved on the spot. They did ask that I fill out the paper work and get it to them as soon as possible. Now I legal. .bob [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links __ NOD32 3623 (20081118) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people
Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people From: Scott Howell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 11/17/2008 13:25 That must be why I've generally had good luck with Home Depot and actually Walmart as well. On Nov 17, 2008, at 10:39 AM, Lee A. Stone wrote: > > well for Home Depot Lenny you could ask to speak to management and > address the issues. letting them know you know they have written > training manuels to handle each area including petting your dog. > Thw woman I know who help write the rules or regs is also a dog guide > user. Lee > > On Mon, Nov 17, > 2008 at 10:31:48AM -0500, Lenny McHugh wrote: > > Lee, Interesting, maybe she wrote a great set of rules too bad > that the > > employees don't read them. Although they are very helpful many of > them try > > to pet or talk to my guide dog. > > - Original Message - > > From: "Lee A. Stone" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: > > Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 9:41 AM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people > > > > > > > > David, If I may. only one store that I know has actual training to > > work with folks with all sorts of disabilities and that is Home > > Depot we know the woman who help write the training manuel. So all > of > > us in our own way, if needed can continue to educate the public. Lee > > > > > > On > > Mon, Nov 17, 2008 at > > 07:17:57AM -0500, > > David Ferrin wrote: > > > I'm quite sure we all have had experiences good and bad in > dealing with > > > the > > > public. The secret service didn't want me to use my cane in the > white > > > house > > > when we went for a tore in 1997. Never the less suffice it to > say you're > > > going to find such dopes in the most unlikely places even > doctor's offices > > > to mention yet another location. My point is it's fine if you > folks wish > > > to > > > share or more accurately vent a bit, but let's not drag it out > too long is > > > all I ask. Personally I can't stand it when a sales clerk won't > speak to > > > me > > > choosing instead to discuss things with the person I'm with at > the time. > > > It > > > does make it difficult for them when I'm alone in the store or > should I > > > say > > > uncomfortable. > > > David Ferrin > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Think like a man of action, and act like a man of thought. > > > - Original Message - > > > From: "Betsy Whitney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: > > > Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 7:06 AM > > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people > > > > > > > > > >I lived and shopped in this town for nine years before my now > husband > > > > arrived. All of a sudden the clerks in the stores started > talking to > > > > him. I would hand them my credit card with my name on it which > is > > > > Elizabeth, not easy to confuse with a male, and they would try > to > > > > hand him the slip to sign. He asks, "Isn't it a felony to sign a > > > > credit card slip that isn't mine?" > > > > > > > > Now, we have a system wherein when we go to a store he does > what he > > > > calls "whistling dixie." If a clerk or sales person tries to > talk > > > > with him, he just walks away and starts whistling until I'm > finished. > > > > > > > > One of the other things the clerks did was try to give him my > change > > > > when I paid cash for something. I would ask, "Why is it that the > > > > money came out of my purse and you're giving him my change? As > many > > > > times as I have seen him pay for things, not once have you > ever tried > > > > to give me his change..." > > > > > > > > At 05:53 PM 11/16/2008, you wrote: > > > > > > > >>Friends of the order of the Nailing Apron, > > > >>You've probably had experiences similar to mine when I visited > Menards > > > >>yesterday. We picked up supplies to upgrade the kitchen. With > the new > > > >>furnace the chimney is no longer in use. By taking it out I > can adde 24 > > > >>inches of upper and lower cabinet
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people
I understand that interfearance especially with a guide is annoying, but really, it's way easier to train a dog to ignore stuff than fight with people all the time. As has been said, education is the key, and that's especially true when trying to get clerks to help with tools and supplies, when they're worrying about if the blind guy's gonna hurt himself. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people From: Scott Howell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 11/17/2008 13:25 That must be why I've generally had good luck with Home Depot and actually Walmart as well. On Nov 17, 2008, at 10:39 AM, Lee A. Stone wrote: > > well for Home Depot Lenny you could ask to speak to management and > address the issues. letting them know you know they have written > training manuels to handle each area including petting your dog. > Thw woman I know who help write the rules or regs is also a dog guide > user. Lee > > On Mon, Nov 17, > 2008 at 10:31:48AM -0500, Lenny McHugh wrote: > > Lee, Interesting, maybe she wrote a great set of rules too bad > that the > > employees don't read them. Although they are very helpful many of > them try > > to pet or talk to my guide dog. > > - Original Message - > > From: "Lee A. Stone" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: > > Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 9:41 AM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people > > > > > > > > David, If I may. only one store that I know has actual training to > > work with folks with all sorts of disabilities and that is Home > > Depot we know the woman who help write the training manuel. So all > of > > us in our own way, if needed can continue to educate the public. Lee > > > > > > On > > Mon, Nov 17, 2008 at > > 07:17:57AM -0500, > > David Ferrin wrote: > > > I'm quite sure we all have had experiences good and bad in > dealing with > > > the > > > public. The secret service didn't want me to use my cane in the > white > > > house > > > when we went for a tore in 1997. Never the less suffice it to > say you're > > > going to find such dopes in the most unlikely places even > doctor's offices > > > to mention yet another location. My point is it's fine if you > folks wish > > > to > > > share or more accurately vent a bit, but let's not drag it out > too long is > > > all I ask. Personally I can't stand it when a sales clerk won't > speak to > > > me > > > choosing instead to discuss things with the person I'm with at > the time. > > > It > > > does make it difficult for them when I'm alone in the store or > should I > > > say > > > uncomfortable. > > > David Ferrin > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Think like a man of action, and act like a man of thought. > > > - Original Message - > > > From: "Betsy Whitney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: > > > Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 7:06 AM > > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people > > > > > > > > > >I lived and shopped in this town for nine years before my now > husband > > > > arrived. All of a sudden the clerks in the stores started > talking to > > > > him. I would hand them my credit card with my name on it which > is > > > > Elizabeth, not easy to confuse with a male, and they would try > to > > > > hand him the slip to sign. He asks, "Isn't it a felony to sign a > > > > credit card slip that isn't mine?" > > > > > > > > Now, we have a system wherein when we go to a store he does > what he > > > > calls "whistling dixie." If a clerk or sales person tries to > talk > > > > with him, he just walks away and starts whistling until I'm > finished. > > > > > > > > One of the other things the clerks did was try to give him my > change > > > > when I paid cash for something. I would ask, "Why is it that the > > > > money came out of my purse and you're giving him my change? As > many > > > > times as I have seen him pay for things, not once have you > ever tried > > > > to give me his change..." > > > > > > > > At 05:53 PM 11/16/2008, you wrote: > > > > > > > >>Friends of the order of the Nailin
RE: [BlindHandyMan] list feedback request
In general, it's pretty easy to just delete stuff you're not interested in I think. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] list feedback request From: Lenny McHugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 11/13/2008 20:34 Hello Everyone, I would like some feedback on the recall messages. Ray has done a fantastic job of editing the recall notices and forwarding only BHM related items. I while filling in for Ray followed his lead. Many of the items that we deleted are toys due to lead paint. When I was editing the last post it was mentioned to me that some members have small children or grandchildren and may be interested in receiving the information. I am willing to compile a list of what you all want and follow the majority. I will compile the replies until Friday, Nov 21. As not to fill everyone's in-box with the replies please send them directly to me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] . I have included the most recent recall alert. This is an example of something that I would not normally forward to the list. If the majority of you only want BHM related posts the other individuals can subscribe to the recall email list. The subscribe information is at the bottom. Moderator Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 4:38 PM Subject: News from CPSC - Three Recalls This message consists of the following: 1. JA-RU Recalls Toy Trains Due To Choking Hazard (http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml09/09041.html) 2. Swim 'N Score Dive Sticks Recalled by Modell's Due to Risk of Impalement Injury to Children (http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml09/09043.html) 3. Cobra Electronics Recalls Children's Two-Way Radios with Rechargeable Batteries Due to Chemical Burn Hazard; Sold Exclusively in Toys "R" Us Stores (http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml09/09044.html) 1. JA-RU Recalls Toy Trains Due To Choking Hazard NEWS from CPSC U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission Office of Information and Public Affairs Washington, DC 20207 FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE November 13, 2008 Release #09-041 Firm's Recall Hotline: (800) 231-3470 CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772 CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908 JA-RU Recalls Toy Trains Due To Choking Hazard WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. Name of Product: My Little Train Classics Toy Trains Units: About 18,000 Importer: JA-RU Inc., of Jacksonville, Fla. Hazard: The recalled toy contain small parts which can detach, posing a choking hazard to young children. Incidents/Injuries: None reported. Description: My Little Train Classics wooden toy trains are available in two styles. One, with a yellow cab, blue body and six red wheels and the other with a blue cab, red boiler, wooden base and four black wheels. The item #5293 is the same for both styles and is located in the lower left hand corner on the front of the package. Sold at: Various wholesalers and retailers nationwide from March 2007 through October 2008 for about $2. Manufactured in: China Remedy: Consumers should take the toy train away from children immediately and return it to the place of purchase for a full refund. Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact JA-RU at (800) 231-3470 between 8:30 a.m. and 4 p.m. ET Monday through Friday. To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the recalled product, please go to: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml09/09041.html 2. Swim 'N Score Dive Sticks Recalled by Modell's Due to Risk of Impalement Injury to Children NEWS from CPSC U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission Office of Information and Public Affairs Washington, DC 20207 FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE November 13, 2008 Release #09-043 Firm's Recall Hotline: (800) 275-6633 CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772 CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908 Swim 'N Score Dive Sticks Recalled by Modell's Due to Risk of Impalement Injury to Children WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. Name of Product: CORAL Swim 'N Score Pool Stix Units: About 130 Retailer: Modell's Sporting Goods, of New York, N.Y. Manufacturer: ERO Industries (no longer in business), of Mount Prospect, Ill. Hazard: Children can fall or land on these dive sticks in shallow water and suffer impalement injuries. Eye and other facial injuries are also possible. In April 2001,
Re: [BlindHandyMan] 50" clamp Harbor Freight visit
A guy I work with has a Sen-tech 50 inch clamp he bought from Harbor Freight, so I went online and ordered m one. He says it works fine as a fence, and I've been needing one of those forever. The online number in case anybody wants to look at it is: 93589-1vga and I thinbk it cost $16.95 plus shipping. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] 50" clamp Harbor Freight visit From: Lenny McHugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 11/05/2008 17:03 I am not sure about it's design. I am looking forward to getting my hands on it. I think that Karen wants to do some shopping on Friday so we will make a long day and I will come home with it. I did read about another similar device that sells for $65 with an accessory router base for $25 that slides in one of the tracks. I don't do enough to merit that cost. When I get this thing I surely will let you all know. I also like the capability of using it as a 50 inch fence for a drill press. I can think of a few uses. - Original Message - From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 12:37 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Harbor Freight visit Hi Lenny, I am interested to know about the bottom rail. Is it something that slides under the sheet goods being clamped, I just can't quite picture the device. sounds like it would be useful for cross-cut operations. Wonder if they have something similar but longer for ripping. The price certainly is a lot more attractive than many of the devices I have looked up. - Original Message - From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 12:24 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Harbor Freight visit > Overall dimensions: 58-5/8" L x 2-1/2" W x 1-1/4" H > Weight: 2.55 lbs. > > > > ITEM 96878-1VGA > > $24.99 > No C-Clamping > > > a.. Obstruction-free aluminum straight edge > b.. Super low profile > c.. Extra wide and 50% more rigid than standard All-in-One clamps > d.. Instant and easy adjustable edge-to-edge clamping > e.. Two built-in 1/4" T-tracks on the top side allow for accessories or > jigs, such as a stop block > f.. Knurled nonslip jaw faces > g.. Zinc-plated steel locking plates on sliding clamp jaw > h.. Chrome-plated steel round stock rail on bottom > i.. Thermoplastic end clamps > - Original Message - > From: "Ron Yearns" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 12:08 PM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Harbor Freight visit > > > Can you share the item number with us. It sounds interesting. > Ron > - Original Message - > From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "handyman-blind" > Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 10:16 AM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Harbor Freight visit > > >> Yesterday I was in the Harbor Freight store for over an hour trying to >> locate the 50" combination clamp. No one in the store could help me >> unless >> I >> had the item number. I just looked it up on the web site and called the >> store. I was asked to call back in 5 minutes until he searched. I was >> just >> informed that they have two in stock.That store is about 40 miles away, >> next >> week one will open about 5 miles away.I really could use that tool now >> but >> hate to drive another 80 miles to get it. Maybe Friday we will go on an >> Christmas shopping excursion. >> It is strange that on the store computer they can not do a search by tool >> type or description. Karen did pick up a few goodies. some latex gloves, >> ceiling fan clean brush and we picked up a pencil torch that runs on >> butane >> for $1.59.So if you ever want a specific item from the Harbor Freight >> store >> take the item number with you. >> Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous >> with many resources for the blind. >> http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ >> Lenny >> >> >> >> >> Send any questions regarding list management to: >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> To listen to the show archives go to link >> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 >> Or >> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ >> >> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. >> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday >> >> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various >
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Harbor Freight visit
Lenny: Could this be used as a portable fence with a left handed circular saw? And, am I right in assuming it's fifty inches long? Thanks. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Harbor Freight visit From: Lenny McHugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 11/05/2008 11:24 Overall dimensions: 58-5/8" L x 2-1/2" W x 1-1/4" H Weight: 2.55 lbs. ITEM 96878-1VGA $24.99 No C-Clamping a.. Obstruction-free aluminum straight edge b.. Super low profile c.. Extra wide and 50% more rigid than standard All-in-One clamps d.. Instant and easy adjustable edge-to-edge clamping e.. Two built-in 1/4" T-tracks on the top side allow for accessories or jigs, such as a stop block f.. Knurled nonslip jaw faces g.. Zinc-plated steel locking plates on sliding clamp jaw h.. Chrome-plated steel round stock rail on bottom i.. Thermoplastic end clamps - Original Message - From: "Ron Yearns" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 12:08 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Harbor Freight visit Can you share the item number with us. It sounds interesting. Ron - Original Message - From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "handyman-blind" Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 10:16 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Harbor Freight visit > Yesterday I was in the Harbor Freight store for over an hour trying to > locate the 50" combination clamp. No one in the store could help me unless > I > had the item number. I just looked it up on the web site and called the > store. I was asked to call back in 5 minutes until he searched. I was just > informed that they have two in stock.That store is about 40 miles away, > next > week one will open about 5 miles away.I really could use that tool now but > hate to drive another 80 miles to get it. Maybe Friday we will go on an > Christmas shopping excursion. > It is strange that on the store computer they can not do a search by tool > type or description. Karen did pick up a few goodies. some latex gloves, > ceiling fan clean brush and we picked up a pencil torch that runs on > butane > for $1.59.So if you ever want a specific item from the Harbor Freight > store > take the item number with you. > Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous > with many resources for the blind. > http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ > Lenny > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links __ NOD32 3587 (20081105) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pa
Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question
Betsy: This particular dehumidifier has been repaired by having it's circuit board removed so I don't know if the shutoff works or not. It's rated at 32 pints per day, and in high Summer here, I used to get at least that much water when I was draining into a bucket. Thanks for the idea. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question From: Betsy Whitney <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 10/29/2008 16:37 Bill, Does your dehumidifier gather a lot of water? Ours has a 24 pint container to gather the water and then we just dump it. If it gets full, the unit just turns itself off. We generally don't have to empty it more than every ten days, and that's when things are really really wet. This might be an easier solution than redoing the drainage hose system. However, if you don't have a sink in which you could empty the container in your basement, then it would be a problem to carry the container upstairs to empty it. Betsy At 11:27 AM 10/29/2008, you wrote: >Dale: >When we first moved into the house, we believed >we were going to have some pretty serious >flooding problems in the basement, which is >where the dehumidifier's located. So, I decided >to put the thing on a table, and I tapped into >the drainage hoses for the air conditione >ing system and a humidifier that runs in >conjunction with the furnace. We fixed some of >the problems we thought were going to cause >flooding, so I could probably just set the thing >on concrete, though I'd have to modify the >drainage hoses, which is doable though kind of a >pain. It might be this is ultimately the best >fix, I'll try the thing on the floor and see how much less noisy it is. >Thanks for the thoughts. > >Bill Stephan, >Kansas City MO >Email: <mailto:wstephan%40everestkc.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED] >Phone: (816)803-2469 > >-original message- >Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question >From: Dale Leavens <<mailto:dleavens%40puc.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Date: 10/28/2008 18:45 > >Is there any particular reason why you put the humidifier on a table? > >- Original Message - >From: Bill Stephan >To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com >Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 3:24 PM >Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question > >Bob, I hadn't thought about the mess wet tiles >would be. I actually had the thing on a couple >sheets of packing foam and it was still pretty >loud. I hadn't thought of Dale's bungy cord idea >either, but I think the cabinet idea is a dead issue. > >Bill Stephan, >Kansas City MO >Email: <mailto:wstephan%40everestkc.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED] >Phone: (816)803-2469 > >-original message- >Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question >From: Bob Kennedy <<mailto:bobken54%40bellsouth.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Date: 10/28/2008 05:01 > >My first concern with a cabinet for a >dehumidifier is air flow. Setting one inside >anything is going to restrict air flow to the >unit and therefore efficiency. Also the tiles >may collect some of the moisture and come apart. > >The suspension idea sounds like one to consider, >but balance would worry me. The other thing you >can try is putting a rug or thick rubber mat >under the unit on the table it's on already. The >wheels are probably vibrating against the >surface causeing the extra noise. Something to >cushion the wheels will take a lot of the noise >away. Maybe one of those anit fatigue mats everyone is selling now. >- Original Message - >From: William Stephan >To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com >Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 9:59 PM >Subject: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question > >As those of you who have them will doubtless understand, dehumidifiers are >infernally noisy. The table I have mine on is delaminating. I don't know >if it got wet at some point, or if the dehumidifier's just vibrating it to >death. In any case, my next adventure is going to be to build a replacement >table. > >I'm almost done with the shop vac silencing cabinet, and as usual, I bought >too much acoustical tile. So, the plan is to make a table with a floor, >roof, and two sides, and line all four surfaces with acoustical (or is that >just acoustic) tile in the hope it will quiet things down some. > >So, my question: > >If I just have the tile on the floor of this box, the dehumidifier will very >quickly vibrate it's way through it, and the wheels will touch the tabletop. >So, would it be better from an a
Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question
Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question From: Betsy Whitney <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 10/29/2008 14:27 Aloha Bill, I'm coming in on this a bit late, but I have questions. I have had dehumidifiers running in my home for 12 years and have never found them to be "infernally" noisy. Mine turn off when the air is dry enough. If it is running when I want real quiet, I just turn it off for awhile. I have always had mine on the floor. I didn't want to run a drain hose outside so we need to be able to get to the container that collects the water to empty it. I really wonder if there is something wrong with your unit. Mine is sitting on the carpet and I just check to see of there was any damage to the carpet and I see nothing to indicate that the unit is vibrating as I think you mentioned that yours does. I do remember that the instruction sheet that came with mine said to put it on the floor because that is where most of the moisture is, and to make sure that there is a minimum of 18 inches of space around the sides and top for the best air circulation. Betsy At 03:59 PM 10/27/2008, you wrote: >As those of you who have them will doubtless understand, dehumidifiers are >infernally noisy. The table I have mine on is delaminating. I dont know >if it got wet at some point, or if the dehumidifiers just vibrating it to >death. In any case, my next adventure is going to be to build a replacement >table. > >Im almost done with the shop vac silencing cabinet, and as usual, I bought >too much acoustical tile. So, the plan is to make a table with a floor, >roof, and two sides, and line all four surfaces with acoustical (or is that >just acoustic) tile in the hope it will quiet things down some. > >So, my question: > >If I just have the tile on the floor of this box, the dehumidifier will very >quickly vibrate its way through it, and the wheels will touch the tabletop. >So, would it be better from an acoustics standpoint to remove the wheels and >have the whole surface of the bottom of the unit setting on the acoustic >tile, or should I put something like a piece of ¼ inch plywood under the >wheels, it would most likely have to be the same size as the tabletop itself >to keep from sinking. > >I know we have some folks who know way more than I about how sound actually >travels, so Ill quit now and hope they give some suggestions/answers. > >Thanks in advance. > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question
Betsy: I guess infernally noisy is a relative term, and how loud these things are probably depends on where they're running. Mine's in a basemem nt with a lot of open space and no carpeting a or anything to absorb sound. This is actually the third unit I've had in four years, and all have been annoyingly loud. I like to go to the basement and read, think about things and drink cheap scotch of an evening, and I actually do have the dehumidifier on a time switch, but I'd still like to quiet the thing down. I'm going to see how moving it to the floor works though. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question From: Betsy Whitney <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 10/29/2008 14:27 Aloha Bill, I'm coming in on this a bit late, but I have questions. I have had dehumidifiers running in my home for 12 years and have never found them to be "infernally" noisy. Mine turn off when the air is dry enough. If it is running when I want real quiet, I just turn it off for awhile. I have always had mine on the floor. I didn't want to run a drain hose outside so we need to be able to get to the container that collects the water to empty it. I really wonder if there is something wrong with your unit. Mine is sitting on the carpet and I just check to see of there was any damage to the carpet and I see nothing to indicate that the unit is vibrating as I think you mentioned that yours does. I do remember that the instruction sheet that came with mine said to put it on the floor because that is where most of the moisture is, and to make sure that there is a minimum of 18 inches of space around the sides and top for the best air circulation. Betsy At 03:59 PM 10/27/2008, you wrote: >As those of you who have them will doubtless understand, dehumidifiers are >infernally noisy. The table I have mine on is delaminating. I dont know >if it got wet at some point, or if the dehumidifiers just vibrating it to >death. In any case, my next adventure is going to be to build a replacement >table. > >Im almost done with the shop vac silencing cabinet, and as usual, I bought >too much acoustical tile. So, the plan is to make a table with a floor, >roof, and two sides, and line all four surfaces with acoustical (or is that >just acoustic) tile in the hope it will quiet things down some. > >So, my question: > >If I just have the tile on the floor of this box, the dehumidifier will very >quickly vibrate its way through it, and the wheels will touch the tabletop. >So, would it be better from an acoustics standpoint to remove the wheels and >have the whole surface of the bottom of the unit setting on the acoustic >tile, or should I put something like a piece of ¼ inch plywood under the >wheels, it would most likely have to be the same size as the tabletop itself >to keep from sinking. > >I know we have some folks who know way more than I about how sound actually >travels, so Ill quit now and hope they give some suggestions/answers. > >Thanks in advance. > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics questionda
Dale: When we first moved into the house, we believed we were going to have some pretty serious flooding problems in the basement, which is where the dehumidifier's located. So, I decided to put the thing on a table, and I tapped into the drainage hoses for the air conditione ing system and a humidifier that runs in conjunction with the furnace. We fixed some of the problems we thought were going to cause flooding, so I could probably just set the thing on concrete, though I'd have to modify the drainage hoses, which is doable though kind of a pain. It might be this is ultimately the best fix, I'll try the thing on the floor and see how much less noisy it is. Thanks for the thoughts. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question From: Dale Leavens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 10/28/2008 18:45 Is there any particular reason why you put the humidifier on a table? - Original Message - From: Bill Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 3:24 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question Bob, I hadn't thought about the mess wet tiles would be. I actually had the thing on a couple sheets of packing foam and it was still pretty loud. I hadn't thought of Dale's bungy cord idea either, but I think the cabinet idea is a dead issue. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question From: Bob Kennedy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 10/28/2008 05:01 My first concern with a cabinet for a dehumidifier is air flow. Setting one inside anything is going to restrict air flow to the unit and therefore efficiency. Also the tiles may collect some of the moisture and come apart. The suspension idea sounds like one to consider, but balance would worry me. The other thing you can try is putting a rug or thick rubber mat under the unit on the table it's on already. The wheels are probably vibrating against the surface causeing the extra noise. Something to cushion the wheels will take a lot of the noise away. Maybe one of those anit fatigue mats everyone is selling now. - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 9:59 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question As those of you who have them will doubtless understand, dehumidifiers are infernally noisy. The table I have mine on is delaminating. I don't know if it got wet at some point, or if the dehumidifier's just vibrating it to death. In any case, my next adventure is going to be to build a replacement table. I'm almost done with the shop vac silencing cabinet, and as usual, I bought too much acoustical tile. So, the plan is to make a table with a floor, roof, and two sides, and line all four surfaces with acoustical (or is that just acoustic) tile in the hope it will quiet things down some. So, my question: If I just have the tile on the floor of this box, the dehumidifier will very quickly vibrate it's way through it, and the wheels will touch the tabletop. So, would it be better from an acoustics standpoint to remove the wheels and have the whole surface of the bottom of the unit setting on the acoustic tile, or should I put something like a piece of ¼ inch plywood under the wheels, it would most likely have to be the same size as the tabletop itself to keep from sinking. I know we have some folks who know way more than I about how sound actually travels, so I'll quit now and hope they give some suggestions/answers. Thanks in advance. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question
Thanks Dale, suspending the thing might be a good plan. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question From: Dale Leavens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 10/27/2008 22:27 Just a couple of thoughts, Have you thought of suspending the unit from the roof on some appropriately sized bungee cords? Four eye hooks in the roof a little beyond the sides of the machine for the top hooks to fit into then the other ends hooked over the bottom of the dehumidifier cabinet. this will isolate any vibration. You might like to get it off of a table too. The colder air is nearer the floor and this will be more thoroughly saturated with water. Once the air is passed through the coils and heated by the compressor it is drier and will rise. thus, the lower the machine, the more natural convection and possibly the more efficiently it will dry the air. If this means it sits on a concrete floor a loas of your vibration noise will go away. - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 9:59 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question As those of you who have them will doubtless understand, dehumidifiers are infernally noisy. The table I have mine on is delaminating. I don't know if it got wet at some point, or if the dehumidifier's just vibrating it to death. In any case, my next adventure is going to be to build a replacement table. I'm almost done with the shop vac silencing cabinet, and as usual, I bought too much acoustical tile. So, the plan is to make a table with a floor, roof, and two sides, and line all four surfaces with acoustical (or is that just acoustic) tile in the hope it will quiet things down some. So, my question: If I just have the tile on the floor of this box, the dehumidifier will very quickly vibrate it's way through it, and the wheels will touch the tabletop. So, would it be better from an acoustics standpoint to remove the wheels and have the whole surface of the bottom of the unit setting on the acoustic tile, or should I put something like a piece of ¼ inch plywood under the wheels, it would most likely have to be the same size as the tabletop itself to keep from sinking. I know we have some folks who know way more than I about how sound actually travels, so I'll quit now and hope they give some suggestions/answers. Thanks in advance. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question
Bob, I hadn't thought about the mess wet tiles would be. I actually had the thing on a couple sheets of packing foam and it was still pretty loud. I hadn't thought of Dale's bungy cord idea either, but I think the cabinet idea is a dead issue. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question From: Bob Kennedy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 10/28/2008 05:01 My first concern with a cabinet for a dehumidifier is air flow. Setting one inside anything is going to restrict air flow to the unit and therefore efficiency. Also the tiles may collect some of the moisture and come apart. The suspension idea sounds like one to consider, but balance would worry me. The other thing you can try is putting a rug or thick rubber mat under the unit on the table it's on already. The wheels are probably vibrating against the surface causeing the extra noise. Something to cushion the wheels will take a lot of the noise away. Maybe one of those anit fatigue mats everyone is selling now. - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 9:59 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] An Acoustics question As those of you who have them will doubtless understand, dehumidifiers are infernally noisy. The table I have mine on is delaminating. I don't know if it got wet at some point, or if the dehumidifier's just vibrating it to death. In any case, my next adventure is going to be to build a replacement table. I'm almost done with the shop vac silencing cabinet, and as usual, I bought too much acoustical tile. So, the plan is to make a table with a floor, roof, and two sides, and line all four surfaces with acoustical (or is that just acoustic) tile in the hope it will quiet things down some. So, my question: If I just have the tile on the floor of this box, the dehumidifier will very quickly vibrate it's way through it, and the wheels will touch the tabletop. So, would it be better from an acoustics standpoint to remove the wheels and have the whole surface of the bottom of the unit setting on the acoustic tile, or should I put something like a piece of ¼ inch plywood under the wheels, it would most likely have to be the same size as the tabletop itself to keep from sinking. I know we have some folks who know way more than I about how sound actually travels, so I'll quit now and hope they give some suggestions/answers. Thanks in advance. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Thanks to the creator.
Nicely said Dan, and I really wish I could have made it to Houston. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Thanks to the creator. From: Dan Rossi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 10/27/2008 13:19 Yes, this message is off topic for the Blind Handyman list, and I expect will spawn a bunch of other off topic posts of agreement. But it is important, needs to be said, and needs to be read by one and all. So, moderators, hike your skirts up, and sit on your hands for the next day or two. *GRIN* I was one of the attendies at this years biannual Blind Like Me / Blind Handyman get-together in Houston. There may not be another as Phil is retiring from hosting this gathering. Also, although I couldn't be there, this was the recording of the last BHM and BLM shows. We all like to think we make a difference in life. Most of us do. We make the difference to our spouses, children, family in general. We all have an impact on a circle of friends and coworkers. It is rare though, that someone makes a difference in many many lives outside of there normal circles. Phil Parr, and his buddies Don Shaw, Don Patterson, and Tom Houston, have made a difference in the lives of hundreds, if not thousands of blind people, quite literally around the world. There idea of producing a show about blind folks doing handyman tasks, and then another show about the achievements of blind people, great and small, made a difference. Most of us who post on these lists regularly are doers. We set our minds to tasks and we do them with little thought. It is easy to forget that there are many blind people out there who have, hopefully had, no idea that it was even in the realm of possibility that a blind person could change a light switch, or wire a house, bang together a couple of boards for a makeshift shelf, or build a deck, fix a leaky faucet, or plumb a new bathroom, check the pressure in a car's tires, or rebuild a race engine. Phil's concept, ability, determination, and personality has spread that word far and wide. I know that reading this list gave me the courage, and the means, to take on projects like the deck and other projects I have done around my house. Being able to ask here, how another blind person did something, or just getting some encouraging words has been a great help. Being able to chat with others with similar experiences is comforting and gives an interesting view on the world. Phil, I want to thank you and your gang for everything you have done over the last six years. You should be very proud of what you have created. You made a difference. Thanks very much. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical power uses cut
I guess ultimately, like most things, it comes down to how much we value the time it takes to save some money. I know a real tight wad woman who changes the thermostat on her hot water heater every day when she leaves for work. I guess you might be able to measure savings on something like hot water where presumably usage is pretty constant, but electricity would be tough, since you'd likely have to adjust for different temperatures etc. I'm curious also about what happens to a circuit breaker, if anything, if you flip it on and off one or two times a dayy. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical power uses cut From: Betsy Whitney <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 10/24/2008 14:33 Scott, I totally support this topic. I just had someone look at our washer and dryer and there are no lights or displays that are lit when it isn't in use. I do know that if the dryer door isn't closed, the light inside will stay on. My question is that if someone who is sighted leaves the dryer door open, even slightly, and the light stays on, can't they see it? Grumble... Betsy At 09:03 AM 10/24/2008, you wrote: >You know this has me thinking. My wife sure wont' go for unplugging >the microwave, but then getting at the plug is a problem considering >it's an over the range model. However, I gather the washer and dryer >although not running will also consume some electricity. I wonder how >much and how easy it would be to install a switch or something that >would make plugging the dryer in for example when needed or I should >say turning it on/off only as needed. I guess the other option is to >turn off the breaker to the dryer since it's on its own circuit. We >only use those units once a week and gee we only use the dishwasher >possibly once or twice a week. SO, would turning those breakers off >perhaps affect the bill? Maybe I should turn off the breakers to the >heat pump during the really nice days as they aren't in use. No, I'm >not trying to be a smartass here, but since folks claim this could >really impact your electric bill, then I think the question is does >this make sense and how much really would it impact the bill? >I generally leave my router and such on during the evening, but maybe >I should just turn off the ups at night and go from there. I'd likely >not unplug my printer for example as it has settings that would be >lost after about a couple of hours. Well actually guess I need to >check on that as well. Point is I'm all for saving electricity, but >I'd like to know if what I propose makes any sense at all or would I >really not save that much money. > >tnx > >On Oct 24, 2008, at 11:14 AM, Lee A. Stone wrote: > > > > > grinning about your daughter moving out Bob. our neighbors son > > moved out and they are saving big time as their son was twice a day > > in the shower, then the hairdryer and burning the lights half the > > night. I like that idea of putting things on power strips. but > > question. our microwave displays I guess the time. so if that is off > > so is the time. our microwave is a 22 year old Sharpe which was in > > the repair shop the first year and knock on wood. never again. a big > > ole convection micro but I think of it this way" if it ain't broke > > then don't replace it". thanks.Lee > > > > On Fri, Oct 24, > > 2008 at 10:53:02AM -0400, > > chiliblindman wrote: > > > I had a discussion this mourning about power usage of items in > > stand-by mode. There was mention of this on this list before about > > the power used by appliances when in the off mode. Regardless of > > what it could be; microwave oven, computer or TV, most use power > > when off especially if we like the instant on feature of items. > > > A couple placed all there appliances on power strips so they could > > turn them completely off, reasonably in a easy way anyway. Their > > electric bill has been slashed in half and they were really excited. > > > Apparently they do not have a microwave like mine that needs the > > time set before it is usable. I figured I would pass this > > information along. > > > I found something that reduced my electric bill almost in half by > > accident, my daughter got married and moved out.hahaha > > > ..bob > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > -- > > Don't do the crime, if you can't do the time. > > -- Lt. Col. Ollie North > > Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net > > > > > >Scott Howell ><mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Portable Vac recommendations
Thanks Spiro, I'll check it out.Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Portable Vac recommendations From: Spiro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 10/10/2008 02:48 I'd gladly have doubled what I paid for my Oreck and have gotten the upright electrolux. However, the little Oreck is a wild little bugger. It's about twice the size of a lunch pail, and has a 3 ft hose. A bag of attachments, and canister bag type bags. I think it's called "The SideKick" It's a little noisy, but it's big time compared to the dust buster and even the Dirt Devil. On Thu, 9 Oct 2008, WESLEY BURDEN wrote: > hello william the only vacuum i reccommend to get is a oreck. I just bought > an oreck on monday and love it. It picks up everything. Your house will be > spotless with an oreck. Go to www.oreck.com. > > > > _ > > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > On Behalf Of William Stephan > Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2008 9:33 PM > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Portable Vac recommendations > > > > All: > > My wife has decided we need a new portable, as in battery-powered vacuum > cleaner to be used primarily on furniture. She wants something with > attachments appropriate to that usage, and hopefully with an easy-to-empty > cup or receptical for the debris. We have a very tired Dustbuster, and this > time I'd like to find something with a little more power and versatility. > Any thoughts? > > Thanks in advance. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
Re: [BlindHandyMan] oiling a leather jacket
Both mink and neatsfoot oil can seriously darken some leather, so a good luggage preservative might be a better bet. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] oiling a leather jacket From: Ron Yearns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 10/04/2008 15:50 Neatsfoot oil or some use mink oil. Let a sighted person try it on a inside area. Don't get overzealous in applying. If the leather has been dyed it still might not absorb real evenly. Ron - Original Message - From: Robert Riddle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2008 1:16 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] oiling a leather jacket I have a full length leather duster here. It's starting to feel kind of dry and not as supple as it used to be. What oils should I use on it, if any? It's not suede, it feels kind of pebbly. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Propane Grill and Galvanized Rack
Wayne, this sounds very similar to my fiesta grill which was purchased from home depot a couple years back. The v shaped metal over the H burner is called the flavor bars, and takes the place of the lava rocks that used to be used. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Propane Grill and Galvanized Rack From: Wayne W Hinckley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 09/26/2008 21:05 Last year my daughter bought a propane grill at the end of the season. It has not been used yet. When I looked it over the other day I found that it is missing the lower rack that holds the lava rocks. Perhaps we lost it, or perhaps it was never in the original box. It is too late for returns or complaints. I am wondering if I were to fashion a rack out of galvanized hardware cloth, would there be a problem with the galvanized material getting hot and causing a health problem with the food being cooked. The food would not be in direct contact with the galvanized material, but would the galvanized material give off harmful fumes? Any other suggestions are welcomed. Thanks, Wayne --- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Waterproof Boots?
Claudia, try farm supply, safety equipment, or maybe a good hardware store or lumber yard. Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Waterproof Boots? From: Claudia <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 09/16/2008 10:01 Hi All, What kind of store or shop do we need to go to, in order to buy waterproof boots? Thanks. Claudia Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues. [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] flood plain
Bill Stephan, Kansas City MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 -original message- Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] flood plain From: Max Robinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 08/26/2008 00:26 Bob wrote. I'm not talking about window screen, it's the larger heavier duty stuff with holes you can count. I just can't think of the name right now. That's called hardware cloth. Chicken wire has much larger holes. The holes in hardware cloth are about 1/4 inch. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: "Bob Kennedy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 8:55 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] flood plain > If I was going to choose I'd go with the cinder block. Just because it's > larger and that means the job will be done faster. I don't see how that > will keep things from clogging the drain though. I would be more tempted > to get some heavy duty screen material and lay it under the grade. That > way you don't block the drain and nothing large will be able to get past > the screen. > > I'm not talking about window screen, it's the larger heavier duty stuff > with holes you can count. I just can't think of the name right now. > - Original Message - > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 9:42 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] flood plain > > > Hello, > recently, during a rain, I had a flood. Wouldn't have happened if there > hadn't been debris in the drain cover. > However, wouldn't have happened if I wasn't at the lowest point of three > houses. > Right, when the neighbors say that they aren't having trouble, it's > because their water can flow down to my driveway. > So here's my thought: > I want to cement a 2 cinderblock long mini wall on my side of the > property > line. Wife might like that for putting the basket of clothes for hanging. > It will most certainly cause less strain on my drain. (I have to keep it > absolutely clear or I pay) > My piping is great, but crap drifts and it could be a plastic bag or such > that causes my trouble. > Overnight is a long time for accumulation and I wake to "splat splat" > when > i go to get something from the back of the basement. > > So, what do i do? > Remove grass, do some scarifying? > Will hydrolic cement hold cinderblocks? Ihave loads of that stuff. > Thanks for the advice. The backs of the houses look like block or I'd > love > to use brick. Any advantage to either? > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links > > > > > Or, expanded metal might work as well. It's a little stiffer than hardware cloth.
