RE: [BlindHandyMan] Electrical Outlet strips?
Hi Nancy I have just bought a 6 outlet power board with individual switches on each outlet. We bought it for the Caravan and there is several brands with different lengths of lead on them. As I live in Australia, we bought it from Bunning's a Huge Warehouse outlet. So they are out there ask around your local electrical or hardware store. Regards Ray -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brice Mijares Sent: Wednesday, 15 October 2008 9:51 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electrical Outlet strips? I've never saw one like that. If you find one, let me know. - Original Message - From: NANCY M HILL [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 10:47 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Electrical Outlet strips? Hi All, I was wondering if anyone knows if there is an outlet strip that has an on/off switch for each outlet. I want to be able to plug in 5 items on a strip so that each item has its own on/off switch. Any ideas or recommendations would be appreciated. Many thanks, Nancy Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=vi ew_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=vi ew_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. **
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Fireplace Safety: Avoiding the Dangers ofCreosote Buildup
Hi Lee I keep an eye out, so to speak for articles I hope of interest. But it is getting increasingly more difficult to find topics we have not already covered in Our Files Area. Thank you for your comments they are appreciated. Regards Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone Sent: Wednesday, 1 October 2008 4:08 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fireplace Safety: Avoiding the Dangers ofCreosote Buildup great posting Ray about chimneys. I would be interested to read here how those burning wood are taking care of their chimneys. I do not have a wood stove or fireplace in this house but have burned wood many times in a previous home. due to the highth of the chimney we had a relative or hired someone to clean the chimney. I found it interesting when we hired a professional chimney sweep that he did it all from inside and made no mess at all but he sure did get a lot of crap out of that old brick chimney. again thanks for the very interesting post Ray. Lee On Wed, Oct 01, 2008 at 06:53:51PM +1000, Ray Boyce wrote: Fuel oil and natural gas prices have soared, and with them so has the popularity of alternative fuels. Wood stove, pellet stove and fireplace use are all on the rise, and with each of these comes a hidden danger that every dedicated wood burner needs to keep in mind: Burning wood creates creosote, and if left untreated creosote can cause fires. The Skinny on Creosote When wood fire burns, it releases unburned gases. These unburned gases condensate on the walls of the chimney liner or flue tile and form a tarry or glazed substance called creosote. Creosote becomes dangerous when allowed to accumulate in the chimney, where it becomes a fuel source for a potential chimney fire. Creosote buildup can be minimized by burning small hot fires and using dry, well seasoned wood, but the reality is the formation of creosote from burning wood cannot be avoided. The Dangers of Creosote Buildup A chimney fire will occur when built-up creosote deposits are ignited by extreme heat from the fireplace. For this to occur, the creosote must be subjected to high temperatures-temperatures in excess of 1,000 degrees or so. Although 1,000-plus degrees may seem a bit extreme, the following quote from the March 1990 Home Hearth Magazine puts this all in good perspective: Creosote buildup, by itself or in combination with other factors, was involved in 92 percent of chimney fires reported in a study commissioned by the Wood Heating Alliance. A buildup of as little as 1/8 to 1/4 inch of creosote is sufficient to create a fire hazard. First Key to Safety is Cleaning Eventually, every chimney requires a manual cleaning to remove creosote build-up. Since the formation of creosote is an unavoidable byproduct of burning wood, cleaning your chimney becomes an unavoidable task as well. Cleaning a chimney on your own is a dirty job and is somewhat difficult to do. The proper brushes and techniques should be used to ensure that the sides of the chimney are left clean from creosote. And, more importantly, proper inspection should be done at every cleaning to ensure there are no structural defects, such as cracks or missing mortar joints in the chimney flue that could lead to eventual safety problems. For these reasons it is highly recommended that the task of cleaning be left to a CSIA Certified professional chimney sweep. The frequency for the cleanings can vary, based on the amount of use that the fireplace receives, but should never be longer than a year between cleanings. Chemical Cleaning is a Great Idea, Too Understanding that creosote can begin to reform within a few days after cleaning, a regular method of ongoing maintenance is always recommended. To accomplish this, chemical cleaners are a great solution. Chemical cleaners, used during burning, will help to prevent creosote from reforming, as well as help to reduce chimney odors. These types of cleaners can be found in several different forms, including powders, liquid sprays, logs and sticks. When selecting a product to use, keep in mind that the best alternative in chemical cleaners is one that can be used on a daily basis with every burn. My experience has been that the liquid sprays, such as ACS's Anti-Creo-Soot, are the best choice when selecting a cleaner. They tend to be the least expensive per application, they're extremely easy to use and, since they are used with every burn, they are the most effective at reducing ongoing creosote buildup. Burning wood, whether in a fireplace or a wood-burning appliance, offers many advantages to the homeowner, including the lure of heating with wood and the joy of stoking the fire. The energy savings that can be gained by wood as an alternative fuel source have motivated many homeowners to become wood burners. By taking a
[BlindHandyMan] Explanation of the meaning of water resistancy in watches
A watch is not water resistant unless stated on the dial or case back. Watches, which are not noted as water resistant, should not be worn whilst washing hands, dishes or showering etc. The notation of water resistance to a given depth (e.g. 30m, 50m) is based on the fact that the case has been designed to withstand a static laboratory test to the stated depth for short periods only. Most water resistant watches are not designed for prolonged and active use in water. The only watches designed to withstand these types of conditions are professional divers watches. GENERAL POINTS The figures quoted refer to static pressure. The actual water pressure on the watch during use will be greater than the static pressure. For instance, diving pressure on the watch is clearly greater at the impact point with the water during poolside diving. Condensation can also be a problem. A sealed watch will pick up body warmth in water and this remains in the case. If the watch is then suddenly plunged into water that is some degrees colder, moisture can then be created within the watch and become visible as small droplets under the glass. This normally dissipates of its own accord once the watch is removed from the water, but this not always the case. The watch may then need to be returned to the watchmaker for inspection. 3 ATM/98 FT Suitable for everyday use. Will withstand accidental splashing but NOT suitable for swimming 6 ATM/164 FT Suitable for everyday use and swimming but NOT for poolside diving, snorkelling or water sports. 10 ATM Suitable for everyday use including swimming and snorkelling but NOT suitable for highboard diving or sub-aqua diving. 20 ATM Suitable for all high impact water sports and scuba diving at depths NOT requiring helium gas. At these depths however it is recommended that a professional divers watch be purchased. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Safety Alert
Hi Ask The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission,they put out these alerts Ray. From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, 19 September 2008 12:43 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Safety Alert okay, please someone explain to me, kindly, how this works. The wire can melt. Does that mean that they are expecting underrated batterries? For instance, any suer alkaline will have as much or more than a rechargable. What am I missing that would cause wire melt? Thanks On Sat, 20 Sep 2008, Ray Boyce wrote: Safety Alert: Petzl America Warns of Burn Hazard from Headlamps; Product Should Only Be Used with Non-Rechargeable Batteries WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a safety alert for the following consumer products. Consumers should immediately stop using rechargable batteries with any of the products listed below. Name of Product: MYO and MYO Belt Headlamps Units: About 322,000 Distributor: Petzl America, of Clearfield, Utah Manufacturer: Petzl S.A., of Crolles, France Hazard: If the headlamp is used with rechargeable batteries, the cable connecting the battery pack to the lamp can spark, melt, or catch fire. This poses a burn hazard to consumers. Incidents/Injuries: Petzl has received 13 reports of sparking and/or melting, with 2 reports of flames. One consumer received a minor burn to the hand, and another experienced singed hair. Description: This safety alert involves the MYO and MYO Belt headlamps with name and model numbers listed below. The MYO headlamps have a battery pack attached to the headband. The MYO Belt headlamps have a remote battery pack attached to the headlamp via a long electric cable. Name Model Number MYO E26P MYO-black E26PN MYO 3 E27P MYO 3-black E27PN MYO 5 E28P MYO 5-black E28PN MYO Belt 3 E29 P MYO Belt 5 E30 P MYOLITE E31 P MYOLITE 3 E32 P MYOBELT SB5 E33 P MYO XP, blue E83 P MYO XP, gray E83 P2 MYOBELT XP, blue E84 P MYO XP BELT, gray E84 P2 The name of the product can be found on the side of the headlamp and on the packaging. The model number can be found on the packaging. Sold at: Specialty retailers nationwide from February 2003 through August 2008 for between $40 and $80. Manufactured in: France Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using rechargeable batteries with the headlamps and contact Petzl to obtain a new warning label. Consumers can continue to use the headlamps with non-rechargeable batteries. Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Petzl America toll-free at (877) 740-3826 between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. MT Monday through Friday, or visit the firm's Web site at http://www.petzl.com http://www.petzl.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Airless Spraying
Airless paint sprayers are designed to cover large surfaces quickly. The tip size used in the spray gun determines the type of coating possible. Tip and motor size will dictate speed of coverage. Some advantages of painting systems are: Picture (Metafile) * Cover large surfaces fast * Faster than brush or roller * Ideal for home owners and semi-professionals * No need for air compressor * Use with 1 or 5 gallon bucket * Great for home exteriors, barns and fences * Easy to use and clean Sprayers often compared to airless systems are: * Air operated guns which mix air and paint to create a fine mist. This results in a fine finish which is ideal for painting a car or a piece of furniture.(Conventional pd_Sprayingconv.html ) * Airless cup guns are intended for very small painting jobs. Application techniques The following techniques, if followed correctly, will assure a professional painted finish. 1. Hold the gun perpendicular to the target surface; that is, square to the surface. 2. Always keep the gun at an equal distance to the surface. 3. Move the gun either across or up and down the surface at a steady rate. 4. Move the gun at a consistant speed to conserve material and provide even coverage. 5. The correct spraying speed allows a full wet coat of paint to be applied without runs or sags. 6. The gun should be moved in a confident and flowing fashion without hesitation. 7. If you lack experience, practice moving the gun over the surface before you actually begin to paint. 8. Spray alternately from right to left and left to right. 9. Begin movement of the gun (about six inches) before you press the trigger. 10. Release trigger before movement of the gun ceases. This prevents sharp cut-off in the spray pattern. Picture (Metafile) 1. Holding the gun closer to the surface deposits more paint on the surface and produces a norrower spray pattern. 2. Holding the gun farther from the surface produces a thinner coat and a wider spray pattern. 3. If runs, sags or excessive paint occur change to a spray tip with a smaller orifice. 4. If the coverage looks too thin or you wish to spray faster change to a tip with a larger orifice. 5. Proper overlapping of the spray pattern is essential for even finish. 6. It is advisable to apply at least two coats so don't try and get it perfect first time round. 7. Be sure to overlap each stroke. 8. When spraying horizontally, aim at the bottom edge of the preceding stroke so as to overlap the previous stroke by 50%. 9. On a corner or edge split the center of the spray pattern and spray vertically so that adjoining sections receive even amounts of paint. 10. Avoid holding the gun at an angle, as this deposits paint unevenly. 11. DO NOT swing the gun in an arc like movement as this results in an uneven finish. 12. On exteriors, if conditions are windy angle the spray pattern into the wind to avoid drifting. Picture (Metafile) 1. Work from ground to roof. 2. Do not attempt to spray if the wind is excessive. 3. Whenspraying with a shield hold it firmly against the surface. 4. Angle the gun slightly away from the shield and towards the target surface. This will prevent paint from being forced underneath the shield. 5. Shrubs next to houses should be tied back and covered with sheets. The sheets should removed as soon as possible. 6. A Gun Extension can be used to reach awkward areas. 7. Nearby vehicles should be moved or covered whenever in the vicinity of a spray job. 8. Always be careful of any surrounding objects which may be damaged by overspray. Cleaning Procedure Picture (Metafile) WARNING.High Pressure Device. Follow all safety warnings located on the sprayer and in the owners manual. Always clean using low pressure, with the spray tip removed. Always flush into a separate metal container away from the sprayer. Never clean the exterior of the machine while it is plugged in or operating. Pressure release procedure Step 1: Engage trigger safety lock on gun. Step 2: Turn off pump and release fluid pressure by turning the pressure relief prime valve located on the side of the pump down. Low Pressure cleaning procedure: Step 3:Remove and let soak clean, in a small container of solvents or water. Adjust fluid pressure to lowest setting. Step 4: Turn the pump on. Tilt syphon tube above paint container allowing the Sprayer to pump itself dry through the return tube. Step 5: Have available container of hot soapy water if spraying latex (or suitable solvent forr oil base paints). Do not clean with mineral spirits if using latex as this will make jelly. Picture (Metafile) Step 6.Place syphon tube into container with hot soapy water or solvents. Let circulate for 2-3 minutes, then turn unit off. Step 7: To save paint still in spray hose, turn prime valve up to spray position, then carefully trigger
[BlindHandyMan] Glossary of Generator Terms
Alternating Current (AC) Current which varies from zero to a positive maximum to zero to a negative maximum to zero, a number of times per second, the number being expressed in cycles per second of Hertz (HZ). Alternator A device for converting mechanical energy into electrical energy. Amperage The strength or intensity of an electric current, measured in amperes (AMPS). Battery Charge Rectifier A component which changes AC voltage from the battery charge windings (withinthe STATOR) to DC voltage. This voltage could be used to charge a battery. Brush A conducting element, usually graphite and/or copper, which maintains sliding electrical contact between a stationary and a moving element. Conductor A wire or cable designed for the passage of electrical current. Contactor A contactor is an electrically operated switch usually used in control circuits and whose contacts are considered high amperage compared to a relay. Core The laminations in the generator constituting the magnetic structure thereof. Cradle The metal frame that surrounds and protects the generator/engine. Current The flow rate of electricity. Cycle One complete reversal of alternating current of voltage, from zero to a positive maximum to zero to a negative maximum back to zero. The number of cycles per second is the frequency, expressed in Hertz (HZ). Diode A solid state device which allows current to pass in one direction only. Since it allows only one half cycle of an alternating current pass, its output will be unidirectional and it may be considered a rectifying element. Direct Current (DC) An electric current flows in one direction only. DC is produced by chemical action (i.e. a storage battery) or by electromagnetic induction. Dynamo A machine for converting mechanical energy into electrical energy by electromagnetic induction - a generator. Electro-Motive Force (EMF) The force which causes current to flow in a conductor; in other words, the voltage potential. Full Power Outlet Enables you to draw the full power of the generator out of one outlet. Generator A general name for a device that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy. The electrical energy may be direct current (DC) or alternating current (AC). Ground A connection, intentional or accidental, between an electrical circuit and the earth or some conduction body serving in the place of the earth. Idle Control A system that controls the idle speed of the engine in direct relation to the electrical load. Ignition Coil A device used to supply DC voltage to the spark plugs. Magneto An alternator with permanent magnets used to generate current for ignition in an internal combustion engine. Ohm Unit of electrical resistance. One volt will cause a current of one flow through a resistance of one ohm. Phase The uniform periodic change in amplitude or magnitude of an alternating current.Three phase alternating current consists of three different sine wave current consists of three different sine wave current flows, different in phase by120 degrees from each other. Power Transfer System A system to safely wire your generator to your home's electrical system. Rated Speed Revolutions per minute at which the set is designed to operate. Rated Voltage The rated voltage of an engine generator set is the voltage at which it is designed to operate. Rear Bearing Carrier The casting which houses the rotor bearing which supports the rotor shaft. Rectifier A device that converts AC to DC. Relay An electrically operated switch usually used in control circuits and whose contacts are considered low amperage, compared to a contactor. Resistance Opposition to the flow of current. Rotor The rotating element of a generator. Single Phase An AC load, or source of power normally having only two input terminals if a load or two output terminals if a source. Stator The stationary part of a generator. Vibration Mount A rubber device located between the engine or generator and the cradle to minimize vibration. Volt The unit of electromotive force. That electromotive force which when steadily applied to a conductor whose resistance is one ohm will produce a current of one ampere. Voltage Electrical potential difference expressed in volts. Voltage Regulator A component which automatically maintains proper generator voltage by controlling the amount of DC exitation to the rotor. Watt Unit of electrical power. In DC equals volts times amperes. In AC equals effective volts times effective amps times power factor times a consistent dependent on the number of phases. 1 kilowatt - 1,000 watts. Winding All the coils of a
[BlindHandyMan] Battery Charging Experiment
I tried to reply to you Art but each time I did a control r my speech locked up. Yes the batteries start charging automatically when the battery is pushed down on the contact points and the charger is plugged into the power. My question was that after apparently being charged the first time and the battery charging light going out when I changed the batteries over to another charger exactly the same they started being charged again. When I did it the third time only the battery in the brand new charger started charging. It's was as though they were never charged properly the first time, and it may have been because of that memory effect we hear about was overcome by changing them into different chargers. I really have no idea but after trying this experiment the batteries seem to have more power than before. I was nearly going to throw these two batteries away but now I will hang onto them a little longer. Ray ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Welding
A welder quite often isn't the most sought after tool by many do-it-yourselfers. A welder can, however, be a very handy and important tool for the contractor or those wishing to repair or build metal projects around the home. Welders are a necessity around the farm and ranch, as well as for those doing auto repair work. Welding and welders may seem daunting to the first timer and, indeed, welding can be challenging, requiring learned skills. These days welding, however, isn't just for shop class nerds or professional metalworkers; it can be fun, and any number of modern-day tools make welding easier for even the first timer. Many modern welders are also less expensive and don't require a special 220-volt circuit. Larger models do, however, require a 220-volt circuit. Types Available Four basic welding tools and techniques are used: arc (stick), MIG, TIG and oxygen/acetylene. Each welding technique has its advantages and disadvantages. Stick welding has been the most popular method for most home-shop welding for a long time. Stick welding uses an electric current flowing directly between a gap between the metal and the “stick” or arc-welding electrode. The current causes part of the electrode to melt, allowing it to mix with the metal of the work piece and form the weld. The electrode has a flux coating that burns to form a protective shield around the arc. Stick welding is the most effective method for welding many different alloys or joints. Stick welding can be used outdoors or indoors or in drafty areas, is the most economical method and will weld on rusty or dirty metals. Stick welding does have some disadvantages. It is limited to metals no thinner than 18 gauge, requires frequent rod changing, has lots of splatter and the welds must be cleaned up after they are finished. Stick welding is also more difficult to learn and use, particularly in striking and holding the arc. Arc welders are available as either AC or DC or AC/DC. AC welders are the most economical and are used for welding thicker metals of 1⁄16 inch or more. They are the best choice for farmers, hobbyists, and home maintenance chores. DC welders provide cleaner welds, fewer arc outages, less splatter and sticking, and better control on thinner metals. They are also more expensive. Picture (Metafile) Above: The traditional type of welding for homeowners has been arc or stick, but it takes practice to strike the arc and hold it properly. MIG welding (GMAW) (also sometimes called wire-feed) uses a wire welding electrode on a spool that is fed automatically at a constant selected speed. The arc created by an electrical current between the base metal and the welding wire melts the wire and joins it with the base. This produces high-strength welds with a very good appearance and little need for cleaning. MIG welding also uses a gas shield process with gas fed through the welding torch and acting as a shield at the arc. This prevents oxidation and contamination of the base metal. The gas utilized may be inert or active, depending on the base metal to be welded. MIG welding is clean, easy and can be used on either thin or thicker plate metals. Above: Wire-feed welders feed a wire through a gun and are easy to use, produce clean welds and many are now sized perfectly for homeowners. A similar type of wire-feed welding is FCAW. It is slightly different from MIG welding in that it does not require a shielding gas. This gas-free welding uses flux-cored welding wire to shield the arc. This form of welding is the simplest, very efficient and extremely effective, especially when welding outdoors in windy conditions. Both MIG and FCAW are very easy to learn and can create super-clean welds on steel, aluminum and stainless. MIG and FCAW weld materials as thin as 26 gauge. Another form of welding is TIG, also called Heliarc. It utilizes tungsten inert-gas and is used primarily by professionals. Oxygen/acetylene welding utilizes oxygen and acetylene mixed at the torch to produce a flame hot enough to melt metal. It can be used for metal cutting as well as welding purposes. Oxygen/acetylene welding takes quite a bit of practice and skill, as well as quite a bit of safety rules in storing and using the gases. Safety Welding, like many work procedures, can be dangerous if you don't follow safety rules. 1. Work in a safe area, free of all flammables, with both a fire extinguisher and a bucket of sand available. 2. Exposure to a welding arc is extremely harmful to eyes and skin. Prolonged exposure can cause blindness and burns. Never weld unless you are adequately protected. Wear a heavy, long-sleeved shirt, cuffless pants, high-topped shoes, flameproof welding gloves and a protective welding helmet. 3. Read and understand the welder's owner's manu Picture (Metafile) Above: Auto-darkening helmets, like the Campbell Hausfeld model shown, make it easy to see the gun or stick placement but
[BlindHandyMan] Spark Plugs
Since the beginning of the internal combustion gasoline engine, a source of spark has been needed to ignite the air fuel mixture. Sparkplugs were, and are still today, the answer. Subjected to high heat, extreme pressures, and large temperature changes, sparkplugs have perhaps the most difficult task in the engine, yet they spark millions of times without failure. Improvements over the years in ignition systems and spark plug design have extended the useful life of a sparkplug. In the Sixties, it was recommended to change sparkplugs every 16,000 kilometres. Ignition systems of that period typically produced a maximum of 20,000 volts to fire a spark across the sparkplug electrodes. A sparkplug in good condition requires 8,000 to 12,000 volts to create a spark across the spark plug electrodes while operating in an engine. A worn sparkplug requires much higher voltage to fire; this could easily exceed the voltage available from the ignition systems of that time. Electronic ignition systems of the 1970's could produce higher maximum voltages. Some systems could produce 30 to 35 thousand volts, which was enough to fire even partially worn sparkplugs. Thus, recommended change intervals were extended to between 40 to 50 thousand kilometres. Many vehicles on the road today still require sparkplug changes at this interval to ensure maximum vehicle performance and the best fuel economy. The challenge of meeting emission laws brought about the development of coil pack ignition systems. These systems use one coil to fire two sparkplugs, as compared to the earlier systems that used one coil to fire all the sparkplugs. Coil pack systems can produce 50,000 volts or higher and are capable of firing even badly worn sparkplugs. For best performance, the sparkplug change interval was still around 50,000 kilometres, but many drivers drove the car much further before problems would occur. Operating an engine with worn sparkplugs causes the coils to produce higher voltages necessary to jump across the worn electrodes. Any areas of weak electrical insulation could allow the spark to jump somewhere else, and the misrouted spark can damage electronic ignition modules, coils, and spark plug wires. Changing the sparkplugs at the recommended intervals was cheap insurance to prevent misfiring and costly parts repairs. Some of the latest engine designs use one ignition coil for each sparkplug. This is not for higher voltage output, but rather to shorten the path of electricity from the coil to the sparkplug. The shorter the path, the less chance of electrical leakage. The short path also reduced electromagnetic interference in the engine compartment. This is very important as cars continue to increase in the amount of computer wiring and sensors onboard. Electromagnetic interference can cause a computer to malfunction! The latest improvements in sparkplugs have been the introduction of special high mileage sparkplugs. Both Ford and General Motors have been advertising sparkplugs that will last for 160,000 kilometres. These sparkplugs cost about three to four times as much as regular sparkplugs, and use special alloys for the electrodes that wear very slowly. You may have seen other sparkplugs for sale that feature multiple electrodes or electrodes with special shapes. These sparkplugs use premium electrode materials for longer life, and their special design helps to ensure a spark will fire across the electrodes. As sparkplug electrodes wear, they round off. Spark jumps much easier from a sharp, pointed surface than a round one, so extra electrodes and special shapes with sharp edges help the spark jump across. These sparkplugs are costly to manufacture, so they cost more as well. Why should sparkplugs be changed at the recommended mileage when the car seems to be running fine? When a sparkplug begins to fail, it does not stop completely. It may misfire only when you accelerate or when you are driving on the highway. With only one of eight sparkplugs partially misfiring on an eight-cylinder engine, your fuel economy could be reduced by ten percent! At today's price, the wasted fuel would easily pay for new sparkplugs and give better performance as a bonus. When changing sparkplugs in an engine, there are several important steps. First, get the correct replacement sparkplugs from your auto parts supplier. Sparkplugs are numbered as to their heat range (operating temperature of the sparkplug tip), thread size and length, and type of gasket or seal to the engine. Installing an incorrect sparkplug could result in expensive engine damage. Remove each sparkplug wire carefully by pulling on the boot at the sparkplug. Do not pull directly on the plugwire, as it causes internal damage to the wire that requires the plugwire to be replaced. Before removing the old sparkplugs, blow out any dirt or stones around the plugs that could fall into the engine. Engines with aluminum cylinder heads should be allowed to cool before removing the
[BlindHandyMan] Circular Saw Blade Terms Used to Describe Blades
Vermont American provides these helpful terms to aid you when selecting saw blades. Alternate Top Bevel (ATB)-for crosscutting,cuttoff and trimming Anti-kick: A shoulder design that is engineered to improve the ease of cut and reduce the effect of the saw blade kicking back due to overfeeding. Arbor: The saw motor shaft that rotates the saw blade. Often refered to as the mandrel. Bore: The arbor by which the saw blade is mounted on the saw. Available in various sizes. Bevel: Angles on a carbide tooth blade. Teeth can have a single bevel, double bevel or no bevel at all. Types of bevels can alternate from tooth to tooth on a given blade. The bevel is what gives the blade its specific cutting pattern. Chipper: A cutting tool that is placed between the outside blades of a dado set to adjust the width of the cut. Coating: Specially fomulated coatings that stays slick. Coating a blade reduces heat in two ways: It minimizes friction and binding and resists pitch and gum buildup. Combination saw blade: A blade used for both ripping (cutting with the grain of the wood) and crosscutting (cutting across the grain). Crosscut: To cut or saw against of the grain of the wood. Expansion slots: The spaces that allow a blade to expand as it heats up during cutting. It eliminates warpage by cooling the blade. Ferrous: Of or containing iron. Finishing saw blade: A saw blade with a higher tooth count to provide smoother cuts. Typically refers to 7-1/4 blades with more than 40 teeth and 10 blades with more than 60 teeth. Flat Top Grind(FTG)-best for ripping Framing saw blade: A carbide tipped blade used to make fast cuts in all types of wood. (The fastest cutting is achieved with lower tooth count saw blades.) Kerf: This is the width of a cut, including the steel plate thickness plus any overhang on a carbide blade. General purpose saw blade: A saw blade with a lower tooth count. Used primarily for fast crosscutting and ripping. Gullet: The space between teeth that clears the workpiece of chips after the cut. Grind: There are many types of tooth grinds, a few of the basic ones are: Alternating Top Bevel, Flat Tooth Grind and Triple Chip Grind. Hollow ground: A concave bevel edge on a tool. Hook angle: The attack angle of the teeth. Harder, more brittle materials need a shallower angle to ease pressure against the materials and reduce chip out. Softer materials require a sharper angle to reduce chip out. Miter: The process of cutting material for an equal angle joint. Nonferrous: Materials and metals not of or containing iron, such as aluminum, copper, brass and lead. Plate: The steel body of a carbide blade on which the teeth are welded. Ripping: The process of sawing a board in the direction of the grain of the board. Runout: The amount of left-to-right movement a saw blade makes during operation. Often referred to as wobble or warp. Stiffening collar: A flat collar that mounts on a saw's arbor directly next to the blade. It is used to make more accurate cuts and dampen the sound the saw generates. Tear-out: A condition in which the saw blade tears out the grain of a workpiece. Tempered: To bring the steel plate of a saw blade to a desired hardness by reheating and cooling. Thin kerf saw blade: A saw blade with a reduced kerf, or cut width. Triple Chip Grind (TCG)-perfect for hard,abrasive materials like non-ferrous metals, hard woods and plastics Tri-Grind (TRI)-combination grind Thanks to Vermont American. Vermont American is the world's largest manufacturer of circular saw blades. Our product selection is the widest range of high-quality circular saw blades available for use in portable, cordless and stationary saws. Saw blades are available in configurations for most applications, from general purpose blades to highly specialized designs. Everything depends on how much blade you want, and that's often a question of construction material and amount of use. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] auto maintenance
Hi Lenny I am having my work car brake fluid changed at the moment by the Dealer where I bought the car from, In fact it should be picked up in about 2 hours. I also want them to check over the brakes to see if anything is required, and they are doing a registration inspection at the same time. I am going to change the engine oil and filter this weekend, but I have to jack up the car at the front for the oil filter is right at the rear of the engine. Then lay on my back and reach up to remove the filter and oil runs down your arm while doing so. Cars these days are made to do the servicing on a hoist but not many people have hoists at home. But I have just bought anew filter remover which tightens around the old filter and adjusts with a quick action screw. All you need is to just loosen it a little then you can remove it easily by hand. Regards Ray -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Wednesday, 16 July 2008 12:23 PM To: handyman-blind Subject: [BlindHandyMan] auto maintenance I went to the Dodge dealer today to make an appointment for the following work: oil and lube - they are free for 7 years or 75,000 miles Change air conditioner filter Change AWD power transfer unit fluid Change AWD overrunning clutch rear carrier fluid The shop forman told me that they never changed an air conditioner filter and that they don't have any. I was asked how many miles and what vehicle I told him a Grand Caravan Sport 2003 with 38,000 miles He then asked why I wanted the awd fluids changed. I referred him to the manual that wants one changed every 15,000 and the other every 21,000 miles. He told me that it is not necessary. This is the second time that they refused to change those fluids. They also refused to change the break fluid so the last time I had to take it to a local garage. So next week I have to take it the local guy to have the break fluid changed. Two years ago he did not want to change the awd fluids and recommended that I take it to the dealer. Does this fluid really need to be changed? Lenny Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=vi ew_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. **
[BlindHandyMan] Tongue Drive system,
The novel system allows individuals with disabilities to operate a computer, control a powered wheelchair and interact with their environments simply by moving their tongues. This device could revolutionize the field of assistive technologies by helping individuals with severe disabilities, such as those with high-level spinal cord injuries, return to rich, active, independent and productive lives, said Maysam Ghovanloo, an assistant professor in the Georgia Tech School of Electrical and Computer Engineering. Ghovanloo developed the system with graduate student Xueliang Huo. The tongue-operated assistive technology, called the Tongue Drive system, was described on June 29 at the 2008 Rehabilitation Engineering and Assistive Technology Society of North America (RESNA) Annual Conference in Washington, D.C. An article about this system is also scheduled to appear in an upcoming issue of the Journal of Rehabilitation Research and Development. This research was funded by the National Science Foundation and the Christopher and Dana Reeve Foundation. To operate the Tongue Drive system, potential users only need to be able to move their tongues. Attaching a small magnet, the size of a grain of rice, to an individual's tongue by implantation, piercing or tissue adhesive allows tongue motion to direct the movement of a cursor across a computer screen or a powered wheelchair around a room. We chose the tongue to operate the system because unlike hands and feet, which are controlled by the brain through the spinal cord, the tongue is directly connected to the brain by a cranial nerve that generally escapes damage in severe spinal cord injuries or neuromuscular diseases, said Ghovanloo, who started working on this project about three years ago at North Carolina State University. Tongue movements are also fast, accurate and do not require much thinking, concentration or effort. Movement of the magnetic tracer attached to the tongue is detected by an array of magnetic field sensors mounted on a headset outside the mouth or on an orthodontic brace inside the mouth. The sensor output signals are wirelessly transmitted to a portable computer, which can be carried on the user's clothing or wheelchair. The sensor output signals are processed to determine the relative motion of the magnet with respect to the array of sensors in real-time. This information is then used to control the movements of a cursor on the computer screen or to substitute for the joystick function in a powered wheelchair. The system can potentially capture a large number of tongue movements, each of which can represent a different user command. A unique set of specific tongue movements can be tailored for each individual based on the user's abilities, oral anatomy, personal preferences and lifestyle. An individual could potentially train our system to recognize touching each tooth as a different command, explained Ghovanloo. The ability to train our system with as many commands as an individual can comfortably remember is a significant advantage over the common sip-n-puff device that acts as a simple switch controlled by sucking or blowing through a straw. The Tongue Drive system is also non-invasive and does not require brain surgery like some of the brain-computer interface technologies. Ghovanloo's group recently completed trials in which six able-bodied individuals tested the Tongue Drive system. Each participant defined six tongue commands that would substitute for computer mouse tasks -- left, right, up and down pointer movements and single- and double-click. For each trial, the individual began by training the system. During the five-minute training session, the individual repeated each of the six designated tongue movements 10 times. During the testing session, the user moved his or her tongue to one of the predefined command positions and the mouse pointer started moving in the selected direction. To move the cursor faster, users could hold their tongue in the position of the issued command to gradually accelerate the pointer until it reached a maximum velocity. Results of the computer access test by novice users with the current Tongue Drive prototype showed a response time of less than one second with almost 100 percent accuracy for the six individual commands. This is equivalent to an information transfer rate of approximately 150 bits per minute, which is much faster than the bandwidth of most brain-computer interfaces, according to Ghovanloo. The researchers have also tested the ability of twelve able-bodied individuals to operate an electric-powered wheelchair with the Tongue Drive system. The next step is to test and assess the usability and acceptability of the system by people with severe disabilities, said Ghovanloo. He is teaming with the Shepherd Center, an Atlanta-based catastrophic care hospital, and the Georgia Tech Center for Assistive Technology and Environmental Access, to conduct those trials. [Non-text portions of this
[BlindHandyMan] A Guide To Buying A Socket Set
of fasteners such as nuts, bolts and Torx fittings, often in places too tight for ordinary spanners or where the fastener has seized and a spanner simply slips off. Whatsmore, when used with a torque wrench or angular gauge, they allow fasteners to be set to the exact tightness recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. This is vital when tackling components such as engines, clutches and gearboxes where the torque setting of many of the fasteners is critical. Given that a socket set is at the heart of the mechanic's tool kit, perhaps it's no surprise that nowadays there are a bewildering range of them available. Open any tool catalogue and off the page will fly buzz words such as 1/2 Drive, Bi-Hex, Hex, Chrome-Vanadium, Wall Drive, Impact, Deep Impact, Professional, Lifetime Warranty to name just a few in a calculated attempt to part you from your cash. But what do these actually mean and what distinguishes a good set from a bad? Do you simply buy the most expensive set available and trust to the maxim you get what you pay for? Well, paying top whack would certainly get you quality, but you could be talking well overyour budget for a comprehensive, top of the range brand name set!! At the other end of the scale, a cheapset. will get you a 72-piece set from a well-known catalogue store (we reckon you couldn't make them from chocolate for that much!). In this feature, we set out to explore and explain the features and benefits that you should look for when selecting a socket set. We will start by matching quality to your requirements and then explore the bare essentials, building up a picture of the core components in a good socket set, as well as looking at the accessories that can be added as need arises. OK, so what does a socket set need to be good quality? Well, that all depends on the job that you want to do with it. For instance, for fixing things around the home, such as shelves, cupboards and, for the more adventurous, washing machines etc, then even a cheap and nasty set will probably suffice. This is because fasteners around the home don't rust up and seize and aren't usually tightened to high torques characteristic of larger, high strength nuts and bolts on your average 4x4. If your requirement is for a home DIY set, that will not be used on your vehicle, then use our guide to identify what it should contain, but don't get too hung up on the actual strength and longevity of the items within. However, for the rest of us, it is essential that our socket set meets certain quality standards - both from a practical point of view (a broken socket is useless), and a health and safety point of view (the sudden failure of an item can lead to broken fingers, wrists and eye injuries, not to mention bloodied knuckles). A good quality socket set will contain a variety of actual sockets, some means of turning them (a ratchet handle, T-bar, spinner handle) and one or more extension bars, to include a universal joint. Now let's look at each in more detail. Firstly, the sockets themselves should be made of chrome vanadium steel, since this gives exceptional strength and durability. Good quality sockets will also be plated with nickel chrome for maximum resistance to corrosion, and to give a high quality appearance. They should have their size (typically referring to the width across the flats of the fasteners they fit) marked on them and often include manufacturer's name alongside. The design of the business end of the socket, the bit that fits over the nut or bolt, is critical to the effectiveness of the socket. Simple sockets have a bi-hex, 12-point design and, although reasonably effective, can lead to rounding-off of seized or low strength fasteners (rounding-off means metal is torn from the fastener head before it turns, making subsequent removal extremely difficult because the fastener has now lost its original shape). Picture (Metafile) Simple and cost-effective bi-hex sockets can be problematic with soft or seized fasteners To combat the problems of rounded fasteners, a hexagonal, 6-point design is preferential. Six-point hex designs also allow for a slimmer wall thickness, giving the socket a reduced overall diameter and hence easier access to recessed or tightly confined fasteners. Look carefully at the 6 'corners' within a hexagon socket; these should be rounded in profile to ensure that the turning force from the socket is transferred to the flanks of the fastener and not its weaker tips. This also has the advantage of permitting an easier fit over a fastener that already has damaged tips from previous attempts to loosen or tighten it. Picture (Metafile) Picture (Metafile) Rounded tip profiles ensure turning forces are transferred to the stronger flanks of the fastener Also available are so-called surface drive sockets that retain a 6-point profile but have a special shape to again drive the fastener flanks (including worn or damaged ones) with reduced wear even at very high torques (the torque
RE: [BlindHandyMan] A new approach to the roller stand.
Hi Max Another approach is use an old Ironing Board with the cloth top taken off , this can quickly adjust to many heights as required. If you had two ironing boards they could support large sheets as they are passing through the saw. When not in use can fold away. In fact my mate uses his when he is working on Car's, he has it along side the car to put his tools on. Regards Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Max Robinson Sent: Wednesday, 30 April 2008 10:35 To: Blind Handyman Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A new approach to the roller stand. Dale has expressed some frustration with the typical roller stand you can buy at almost any home improvement store. Last week I saw one of Norm's TV shows in which he stated the same problems. That is, more often than not the piece of wood coming off the table saw knocks over the stand instead of going on top of it as it's supposed to. Well, Norm has come up with a solution. It's two tall wooden boxes that slide together with a floor stand on one of the boxes and 4 rollers on the other. A threaded rod runs vertically through the whole thing which is arranged for a height adjustment. It's heavy enough and has a large enough base that it shouldn't be easy to tip over. The only thing I might change when I build mine is to make the roller closest to the saw lower then the one next to it and each one just a little higher. Come to think of it the top could be made to pivot so the rollers could be all on the same level or each one just a little higher than the one before it. Whachya think of that. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:funwithtubes-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Protecting garage floors against salt
Hi Jewel I hope never to have Ice on my Garage Floor, I like it Nice and Warm but you never know Winter is on It's Way. Regards Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jewel Blanch Sent: Friday, April 25, 2008 12:46 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Protecting garage floors against salt Ray will be able to correct me if I am wrong, but I doubt that he has overly much trouble with ice on the garage floor in winter, unless, that is, he lives in Canberra, or high in, what Australia calls, mountains! Jewel - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 25, 2008 2:17 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Protecting garage floors against salt Let me remind everybody that where Ray lives winter isn't that far away. Don't forget about the southern hemisphere and those who inhabit it. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:funwithtubes-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Ray Boyce [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:rayb101%40dodo.com.au To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 5:56 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Protecting garage floors against salt Q: I'm starting to see the usual build-up of road salt that begins to appear on my garage floor each year at this time, and I need to know the best way to clean it off the concrete. How often should the cleaning be done? Is once at the end of the season enough? I've heard that salt deteriorates concrete and I want to keep my floor in good shape. A: Yes, besides looking bad, salt is hard on concrete. A garden hose and a long-handled scrub brush do a good job removing salt (since it's so soluble), though you should wait for a warm day to avoid ice buildup on the floor. Doing this operation a few times a season, as weather permits, is sufficient, though you can go one step further. To prevent long-term salt damage, clean your floor in the summer, then apply an industrial grade of masonry waterproofing compound. Check the Yellow Pages in your area for dealers. Industrial products offer a much longer working life than consumer-grade masonry waterproofing agents, saving you time and money in the long run. If you go this route, consider renting or borrowing a pressure washer to get the floor squeaky-clean beforehand. And if you ever happen to be pouring a new floor someday, remember a product called Everdure Caltite (www.cementaid.com; 905-832-4161 ). It gets added to the mix while the concrete is churning in the ready-mix truck, and it makes concrete completely waterproof forever. Flaking, powdering and spalling - even on salty garage floors - simply doesn't happen. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=vi ew_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=v iew_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rooftop Moss Control
Hi Clifford I am constantly looking around to try to find subjects which we have not already covered. We have in our data base a huge range Of topics, courtesy of Dave compiling them on his Server. Which folks can access to help them with completing their projects successfully. So I hope this one works for you. Regards Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of clifford Sent: Friday, April 25, 2008 8:21 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rooftop Moss Control Dear Ray: I have moss growing on my roof just now and I will try the solution you give here. Thanks. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson - Original Message - From: Ray Boyce To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 25, 2008 2:36 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rooftop Moss Control Q: What's the best method to remove moss from asphalt shingles and prevent re-growth? A: Moss and lichen are both highly sensitive to zinc, and this Achilles Heel is the key to a fix. Up near the peak of your roof, install a 1-inch strip of galvanized steel flashing or pure zinc strip underneath the top course of shingles. Allow 1-inch of this metal to remain exposed to the weather. Be sure you actually get hot-dipped galvanized steel for this job and not the more common aluminum flashing sold everywhere. As rain and melt water trickles down over the metal it dissolves small amounts of zinc that kills the current moss growth and prevent a reoccurrence. Sometimes it's necessary to remove existing lichen growth with a gentle pressure washing, but the zinc always prevents re-growth. + [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3053 (20080424) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Deodorize your Air Conditioner
Q: When I turn on my air conditioner I smell a very bad odor, like sulfur or rotten eggs. The smell only lasts about 10 minutes when it's first turned on. What causes this and how can I get rid of it? A: Most likely, the filter and/or pan is matted with dust or rotten algae. Changing the filter might get rid of the smell. If a new filter doesn't completely get rid of the problem, then it might be necessary to clean the coils and the pan that collects water. The job is similar to cleaning a bathtub or sink, so the same household chemicals can be used. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] How to Calculate Concrete Required
Q: I'd like to build a backyard concrete patio to replace a rotting deck. The patio would be about 18 by 10 feet. How do I figure out how much concrete to order? A: Concrete is sold by the cubic yard, and there's no real secret to determining volume. Like anything else, it's measured as length times width times height. Remember, 1 cubic yard is 3-by-3-by-3 feet, or 27 cubic feet. And slabs are generally poured to 4-inch (0.33-foot) or 6-inch (0.5-foot) depths. It sounds like you know your length and width, so for a 6-inch-thick slab, you get 18 x 10 x 0.5 feet = 90 cubic feet. 90 divided by 27 is 3.33. So you would need to order 4 cubic yards of concrete for the slab. By the way, if you're doing this yourself, you should also use a gravel or crushed-rock base, rebar reinforcement, and provide an expansion joint against the foundation. And don't forget to slope the slab away from the house. Does this sound correct, fellow members. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Handy Tip for Grout Application
Hi Michael I thought after sending this article that we have bought grout ready mixed in a soft tube like tooth paste, which you just squash out the required amount as required. Then reseal what is left for later projects. Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin Sent: Thursday, 24 April 2008 09:32 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Handy Tip for Grout Application sounds like a good idea, I might try it. They do have grout bags that serve about the same purpose. I have not used one as of yet, but apparently it is like a cake frosting bag, and you fill it with grout and squeeze it out, like when decorating a cake. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Boyce, Ray Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 4:51 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Handy Tip for Grout Application While refinishing my basement, I was putting the final touches on the tile work, using a 12-by-3-1/4-inch bullnose trim piece as a baseboard trim. The walls were already Spanish laced and painted, so I didn't want to lather up the entire tile and top seam with grout using a standard sponge-trowel method. This would have been a mess not only to spread into the joints but also to clean up and not ruin the walls that were already painted. I located a fairly empty tube of caulk and disposed of the rest of the material inside the cartridge. I cleaned up the tube and pushed back down the plunger that was within the tube. I then proceeded to mix up a small batch of grout according to the manufacturer's recommendation, yet a little dryer so as to keep the grout in the vertical joints easier. I then put the grout into the plastic tube dispenser and re-installed the plunger. I applied the this in specific joint locations of the bullnose trim and found that the grout was especially controlled by the use of the standard caulk gun to dispense it, as well as by the size of the opening in the top of the tube. This saved me a tremendous amount of time when filling the remaining joints of the bullnose and it cut down the amount of wasted grout. I was especially impressed by the reduced clean-up/wipe-down time of excess grout, compared to the normal grouting process of tile work. The overall benefit was that I did the entire job without ruining the existing, completed wall finish. I found using the caulk gun to be a tremendous help, and rest assure I will keep my empty silicon cartridge handy for the next tile job. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Add Eave Vents
Q:Several years ago I had vinyl siding installed on my house and under the eaves. No eave vents were installed and I'd like to do so now. Should I remove the vinyl, cut the holes, place a vent and put the vinyl back? Or, should I cut directly through the vinyl and wood to install the vent? A:Neither. The best thing to do is buy vented eave panels that match your existing siding. The size of the attic that is being vented will determine the number of vented panels needed. For example, you need 1 square foot of soffit vent per 150 square feet of attic floor space. However, add 20-percent to this number for roofs that are 7/12 to 10/12 in pitch, and 30-percent to those that are 11/12 in pitch and steeper. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] How Do I Stop a Chimney Backdraft?
A: Chimneys operate on the basic law of physics, which is: Heat rises. When the inside of the chimney gets hot, the rate of the upward draft will increase as well. If the backdraft only happens when the fire is first lit, then the problem may correct itself as the inside of the chimney gets warmer. When lighting the fire, use newspaper and small kindling to produce a high flame to raise the chimney temperature faster and jump-start the draft effect. Also, you may need a combustion air source to help maintain the draft. Try partially opening a window in the same room as the fireplace. Also, make sure no exhaust fans (kitchen or bath) are running in the house while you have a fire. There's also a correlation between the diameter of the flue opening and the height of the chimney. The larger the flue diameter, the taller the chimney should be to ensure a good draft. If the backdraft is still a problem after the chimney has had time to heat up, then you may need to add an extension on the top of the chimney to increase the draft. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Paint Splatters Around the Brick Work of My House
Q: There are paint splatters on the concrete areas around my house. How can I remove them? The concrete is old and whatever seal it may have had is probably gone. A: You could probably scrape most of the paint off with a paint scraper with a sharp tungsten carbide blade, and clean off what's left with a paint stripper or acetone. Latex paint is much more soluble in strong solvents like lacquer thinner and acetone than oil-based paint. Latex paint is also easier to scrape off concrete than oil-based paint. So your method of removal will depend in large part on what type of paint it is. If it's oil-based paint, you might have to use a heat gun to soften the paint while you scrape it off, and then use paint stripper to soften what remains. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning Rust Off, a Cast Iron Table Saw
Hi Cy Yes use what ever you have handy, has anyone use Coke to clean rust off cast iron. How did it work are you happy with the results. Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cy Selfridge Sent: Monday, 21 April 2008 07:47 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning Rust Off, a Cast Iron Table Saw Ray, What about Coke syrup? It is supposed to be good for almost anything. Also I thought CLR was supposed to be good for rust. Cy, the Ancient oKie... _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Ray Boyce Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 5:42 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning Rust Off, a Cast Iron Table Saw I have a cast-iron table saw that hasn't been used for a few years, and has accumulated a pretty substantial amount of rust on the table. How can I remove the rust and keep it from coming back? Well, there are about as many answers to that question as there are woodworkers who have faced the problem. Cast iron tables are great for their weight and durability, but they're quite susceptible to rust, particularly in high-humidity climates. The first step is assess the situation. If the rust is relatively light and superficial, it won't take much to clean up the problem. However, if the rust has been accumulating for a number of years and appears to be substantial and deep, the saw's table is probably too damaged to return it to its former glory, so to speak. That being said, the saw should still be usable - it just may not be as smooth and precise of a surface as when it was new. First of all, resist the urge to go after your saw table with sandpaper. Instead, try a Scotchbrite or similar synthetic kitchen scrubbing pad (not steel wool) with some mineral oil as lubricant. You want to use a sufficient amount of mineral oil, but don't go to excess, as you'll have to wipe off the oil when the scrubbing is done. I've heard of people using WD-40 instead of mineral oil, which should work fine, although it will evaporate more quickly than mineral oil. Should you choose to use the WD-40, apply it often and to the entire saw table to keep it lubricated until you've finished scrubbing. For heavier rust, you may be able to use your random HYPERLINK http://woodworking.about.com/od/handpowertools/p/OrbitalSander.htm http://woodworking.about.com/od/handpowertools/p/OrbitalSander.htm http://w oodworking.-about.com/-od/handpowertool-s/p/OrbitalSande-r.htm orbital sander to help with the scrubbing. Place the base of the sander on top of the scrubbing pad and get to work. A completely different idea that has some merit for extremely rusted cast iron tables is to use naval jelly. You'll need to follow the instructions on the naval jelly to the letter, particularly when it comes to removal, so as to avoid pitting the cast iron. Naval jelly is quite aggressive for rust removal, but it needs to be removed properly to stop the cleaning action. Once the rust is removed, you'll want to take steps to ensure that the rust won't return. There are a number of commercial products that not only protect the table from rust, but also lubricate the table to make the stock slide better when cutting. T-9 and Slipit are popular choices, typically available online or at your fine woodworking supplier. Paste waxes also work well for protecting and lubricating, but avoid the temptation to use car paste waxes. These formulations typically contain silicone, which will plug up wood pores and cause issues with finishing your stock. Instead, try some Johnson's Paste Wax (which is typically formulated for floors). Apply liberally, wait until it is nearly dry and then wipe the table down to remove any excess. One final note. It may be an old wives' tale, but one that I tend to believe: plain old distilled vinegar can act as a rust inhibitor. After the majority of the rust is removed using your method of choice above, wipe down the entire table with a liberal amount of vinegar. Allow it to dry and then apply your final protectant/lubrican-t. The acidity of the vinegar should help clean up any last little bit of rust that you may have missed, and should also impede the future development of more rust. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.23.1 - Release Date: 4/17/2008 12:00 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.23.1/1385 - Release Date: 4/18/2008 9:30 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or
[BlindHandyMan] Where did the Term Cold Chisel Come From
Hi Everyone The question arose here where did the Cold, in Cold Chisel come from how did it get the Cold Chisel part of it's name from. There is some very intelligent people on this list so tell me please. Being an ex Fitter in the Mines I always knew it as a Cold Chisel made by our Blacksmith but made in a Forge after being heated to a dull red, then tempered. Where did the Cold part come from? Regards Ray ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Where did the Term Cold Chisel Come From
Hi Tom Thanks an excellent explanation which I am going to give to our Cataloguer Well done. Regards Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Hodges Sent: Monday, 21 April 2008 08:33 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Where did the Term Cold Chisel Come From Hi, Ray: The following came from Wikapedia - hope it helps! Tom Cold chisel [image: Bull Point Cold Chisel]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:ColdChisels.jpg http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:ColdChisels.jpg http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:ColdChisels.jpg http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:ColdChisels.jpg Bull Point Cold Chisel A *cold chisel* is a tool made of tempered steelhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_carbon_steel http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_carbon_steel used for cutting 'cold' metals, meaning that they are not used in conjunction with heating torches, forges, etc. Cold chisels are used to remove waste metal when a very smooth finish is not required or when the work cannot be easily carried out with other tools such as a hacksaw, file, bench shears or power tools. The name cold chisel comes from its use by blacksmiths to cut metal while it was cold as compared to other tools they used to cut hot metal. This tool is also commonly referred to by the misnomerhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Misnomer http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Misnomer 'coal chisel'. Because cold chisels are used to form metal, they have a less-acute angle to the sharp portion of the blade than a woodworking chisel. This gives the cutting edge greater strength at the expense of sharpness. Cold chisels come in a variety of sizes, from fine engraving tools that are tapped with very light hammers, to massive tools that are driven with sledgehammers http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sledgehammer http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sledgehammer . Cold chisles are forged to shape and hardened and tempered (to a brown colour) at the cutting edge. The head of the chisel is chamfered to slow down the formation of the mushroom shape caused by hammering and is left soft to withstand hammer blows. The are four common types of cold chisel. These are the flat chisel, the most widely known type, which is used to cut bars and rods to reduce surfaces and to cut sheet metal which is too thick or difficult to cut with snips. The cross cut chisel is used for cutting grooves and slots. The blade narrows behind the cutting edge to provide clearance. The round nose chisel is used for cutting semi-circular grooves for oil ways in bearings. The diamond point chisel is used for cleaning out corners or difficult places and pulling over centre punch marks wrongly placed for drilling. Although the vast majority of cold chisels are made of steel, a few are manufactured from beryllium copper http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beryllium_copper http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beryllium_copper , for use in special situations where non-sparkinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sparking http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sparking tools are required. On Sun, Apr 20, 2008 at 6:17 PM, Boyce, Ray [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:Ray.Boyce%40eraring-energy.com.au wrote: Hi Everyone The question arose here where did the Cold, in Cold Chisel come from how did it get the Cold Chisel part of it's name from. There is some very intelligent people on this list so tell me please. Being an ex Fitter in the Mines I always knew it as a Cold Chisel made by our Blacksmith but made in a Forge after being heated to a dull red, then tempered. Where did the Cold part come from? Regards Ray ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Where did the Term Cold Chisel Come From
Hi Lenny Thanks for the info and taking the time to dig it out. Regards Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of lenny McHugh Sent: Monday, 21 April 2008 08:42 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Where did the Term Cold Chisel Come From A cold chisel is a tool made of tempered steel used for cutting 'cold' metals, meaning that they are not used in conjunction with heating torches, forges, etc. Cold chisels are used to remove waste metal when a very smooth finish is not required or when the work cannot be easily carried out with other tools such as a hacksaw, file, bench shears or power tools. The name cold chisel comes from its use by blacksmiths to cut metal while it was cold as compared to other tools they used to cut hot metal. This tool is also commonly referred to by the misnomer 'coal chisel'. Because cold chisels are used to form metal, they have a less-acute angle to the sharp portion of the blade than a woodworking chisel. This gives the cutting edge greater strength at the expense of sharpness. Cold chisels come in a variety of sizes, from fine engraving tools that are tapped with very light hammers, to massive tools that are driven with sledgehammers. Cold chisles are forged to shape and hardened and tempered (to a brown colour) at the cutting edge. The head of the chisel is chamfered to slow down the formation of the mushroom shape caused by hammering and is left soft to withstand hammer blows. The are four common types of cold chisel. These are the flat chisel, the most widely known type, which is used to cut bars and rods to reduce surfaces and to cut sheet metal which is too thick or difficult to cut with snips. The cross cut chisel is used for cutting grooves and slots. The blade narrows behind the cutting edge to provide clearance. The round nose chisel is used for cutting semi-circular grooves for oil ways in bearings. The diamond point chisel is used for cleaning out corners or difficult places and pulling over centre punch marks wrongly placed for drilling. Although the vast majority of cold chisels are made of steel, a few are manufactured from beryllium copper, for use in special situations where non-sparking tools are required. source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chisel http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chisel - Original Message - From: Boyce, Ray [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:Ray.Boyce%40eraring-energy.com.au To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 6:17 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Where did the Term Cold Chisel Come From Hi Everyone The question arose here where did the Cold, in Cold Chisel come from how did it get the Cold Chisel part of it's name from. There is some very intelligent people on this list so tell me please. Being an ex Fitter in the Mines I always knew it as a Cold Chisel made by our Blacksmith but made in a Forge after being heated to a dull red, then tempered. Where did the Cold part come from? Regards Ray ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=vi ew_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=v iew_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ http://www.jaws-users.com
[BlindHandyMan] All about Crab Grass
It's that time of the year again - the best time to go after crab grass. The trick to good control is timing. Crab grass is a summer annual weed - it goes through an entire lifecycle between spring and fall, just like your annual flowers do. The big problem is that when crab grass dies, it leaves behind thousands of seeds ready to pop up the following year. So tackle this intruder before it has a chance to mature. Here's how: * Purchase a pre-emergent herbicide to kill crab grass. It can be combined with your spring fertilizer, or you can purchase it on its own. This type of herbicide will kill the plants as they germinate, before you even see them. If you have a newly seeded lawn, the only product to use is Siduron, which will not kill the grass as it germinates. The other products are non-selective, meaning they'll kill everything. * Watch the temperature in your area to attack this plant at exactly the right time. The best time to use it is in spring when your soil temperature reaches 60 degrees. A good rule of thumb is to apply it just after the bright yellow forsythia bush blooms in your area. For the best results, mow your lawn before applying the herbicide. * For crab grass that has taken hold in early summer, you can hand pull it. If there is too much for this to be an option, use a post-emergent herbicide such as dithiopyr or quinclorac. Mature crab grass in later summer is extremely hard to control. Your best bet here would be to let the frost kill it, then overseed the area and fertilize. Mark your calendar to use a pre-emergent herbicide the following spring. * To remove crab grass organically, use corn gluten meal which acts as a pre-emergent herbicide as well as a fertilizer. If you have a heavy crab grass infestation, it is important to be persistent, since it will be a longer period of time - perhaps years - before you see significant results. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Can I Match Roof Shingles?
Q: A thunderstorm blew a few shingles off my roof. The roof is about 12 years old. I would like to replace the missing shingles with the same color shingle, but I can't find any that match the old ones. How do I find a match? A: Your best bet would be to take a sample to a few roofing suppliers and try to get as close as possible. Even if you were to find the original manufacturer and color, your 12-year-old shingles are obviously going to be faded by the sun, so you may not be able to find an exact match. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] What's the Difference in Granite Countertops?
Q: For a countertop, what are the advantages/disadvantages of 2-centimeter granite versus 3-centimeter granite? The 2-centimeter is cheaper, but I know you usually get what you pay for. A: The 2-centimeter granite is installed over a plywood rough top. The edge of the plywood is then hidden by an ogee trim or molding on the edge. You can easily attach under-counter appliances to the plywood. The 3-centimeter is not usually accompanied by a rough top. It can be installed directly on top of the counter without need to hide the plywood. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] How to Install Roof Sheathing
Q: When you're laying sheathing on the roof, which way does it need to go, vertical or horizontal? We have it going horizontal and have been told it needs to go vertical. I'd really like to know before it is redone! A: According to APA-The Engineered Wood Association, wood panel sheathing should be oriented with their strength axis or face-grain direction perpendicular to the roof framing. This provides maximum stiffness and load capacity. In most cases, this requires the panels to be installed with the long dimension oriented horizontally, or perpendicular to the direction of the roof slope. However, a special case may arise when hip-roof trusses are used. In this case, to keep the panel's strength axis perpendicular to the hip trusses, the panels on the hip-roof portion must be installed with their long dimension oriented up and down the slope. This can cause a problem, because while the hip trusses maintain their normal spacing (e.g. 24 inches on center), the actual distance between panel supports measured along the slope is greater than the truss spacing. For detailed advice on sheathing for hip roofs, visit www.apawood.org. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] How to Read a Seed Label
The label on the seed bag is a valuable tool when selecting grass seed. It contains important information that indicates its level of quality. Always review the label before purchasing grass seed to make sure you're getting the right type of grass, with as few weeds as possible, from a reputable source. Here's an example of a seed label with tips on how to decipher it. PURITY - Purity is the percentage of seeds of a certain type of grass in the bag that you're buying. Our sample bag contains approximately 50 percent Kentucky bluegrass, 30 percent perennial ryegrass and 20 percent creeping red fescue. The purity numbers by themselves don't add up to 100 percent, but they should when added to the crop, inert and weed seed percentages. LOT - This identifies which farm the seed came from, similar to a license plate. If any problems occur with the seed, this is an important documentation number. Don't buy seed without a lot number - the source is questionable. GERM - Germ stands for germination percentage. This represents the number of seeds that will germinate based on the tested date. Germination percentages will naturally decrease as the seed ages. Improper storage in wet and humid conditions will ruin seed as well. If the rate is 85 percent, 85 out of 100 seeds planted will germinate. Your seeding rate can be adjusted slightly if you know what to expect from the germination on the seed label. Midnight Kentucky Bluegrass - This is one of the grasses in the mixture. Each species and/or variety of turfgrass must be listed on the label. Kentucky bluegrass is the species in this case and Midnight is the variety. A variety name is very specific to a turfgrass species. Creeping Red Fescue - This is another species in the bag of seed. Because no variety name is listed it is considered to be a common variety. Common means either 1) the seed is a common variety that has not been improved and may not be of the highest quality; or 2) it is a named variety that failed inspection (i.e., high weed content) and was therefore classified as common. Either way, there's a high risk that the seed is not high quality and should be avoided. CROP - Any seeds in the bag that are not turfgrass or weeds are classified as crop seeds. These are annual crop seeds, such as winter wheat and rye, that may have entered the bag through harvesting or cleaning equipment. They probably won't germinate in your yard or will be removed when you begin to mow. INERT - This refers to materials in the bag that will not germinate. It could be dead seed, parts of seed or stalk, or dirt. Do not buy seed that contains more than 3 percent of inert material. WEED - This is the percentage of weed seeds in the bag. The higher this number, the more weeds you are buying. If you find an inexpensive bag of seed, check this number because chances are it's quite high. High quality seed will not contain more than 0.2 percent weed seed. TESTED - This is the date the germination test was performed. Avoid buying seed more than one year old. Remember, germination percentages decrease with age. The purity and weed seed percentages will not change over time. By carefully reviewing the label before purchasing seed, you can ensure you're getting a high quality product. Although premium seed may cost a little more up front, it will save time and money in the long run. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Turf and the Three-legged Stool
Think of a three-legged stool! A simple design that can provide many functions, but must have all its parts in order or it will fail. The legs need to be sturdy and equal in length. Anything out of balance will lead to instability. We'll use this stool to explain how maintaining your lawn relates to good lawn care practices. The working part of the stool, the seat, is your lawn. The three primary cultural practices, - mowing, fertilization and irrigation - are the stool's legs. Finally, you have the surface on which the stool stands - that's your soil. Every one of these elements must be in balance to create a great, healthy lawn. Now that we have the parts of the stool equating to your lawn, let's look at each component more closely. Each leg is independent of one another, but if any are removed, the stool is in trouble. Your lawn works the same way. Stoolology 101, Let's call it, to drive home some points. You need those three lawn care maintenance legs to keep the stool standing firm. Balance is the key. Take the mowing leg, for example. If you consistently scalp your lawn rather than following the rule of cutting only one-third the length of the grass in any one mowing you will eventually topple the stool. Even if you fertilize and water correctly, mowing poorly will topple the stool. Weeds and pests will easily take over your damaged lawn. If you don't fertilize correctly - say you don't fertilize at all or put down less fertilizer than recommended - that leg of the stool will collapse, affecting the health and appearance of your lawn. Maybe you have been over-watering, this can remove the nutrients from the soil as well as create the perfect environment for certain lawn diseases. If your soil is hard and compacted, it has an effect - that's what the stool (or your lawn) depends on for its foundation. Remember to aerate to increase oxygen, nutrient and water flow to the roots. Staying in balance is the key. We can also use the stool to show how weed control products help you balance your stool. For some time now, I've advocated that the best way to reduce the use of pesticides and herbicides and still have a nice lawn is to keep your stool in balance: mow, water and fertilizer correctly. A healthy lawn can put up with a lot, fending off pests and disease. But if you do have an invasion of weeds, you will likely need some additional help to get that stool upright and balanced once again. Getting weeds back under control doesn't mean that your lawn will be void of them, but rather that any weeds or pests will be at a tolerable level and one that isn't particularly noticeable. The amount of herbicide that will keep the legs of the stool in balance will be in direct relation to your ability to maintain your lawn correctly. Think of herbicides and pesticides as an aid to help get everything back in balance again. Correct lawn care techniques are at the core of maintaining a balanced lawn. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Should I Use PT Lumber for a Shed?
Q: Should I use pressure-treated lumber for the inside of a shed I'm building? A: Using pressure-treated lumber certainly wouldn't harm anything, and it will always be more durable than non-treated lumber. You must used ground-contact PT lumber for any framing members that touch the ground. And use treated lumber for any exposed areas. Is the shed open or enclosed? If it's an open shed, then yes, use PT lumber. If the interior is completely enclosed from the elements then PT lumber is not absolutely necessary but it's still the superior material. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] How Do I Install Quarter-Round Trim?
Q: I am installing quarter-round on my new baseboards, what do you use to attach the joints with? Should I use Liquid Nails to glue the 1/4 round down, or is there a better way? A: Quarter-round should be nailed to the base boards only. It is intended to hide gaps between the base and floor. It should also permit a little movement in the flooring. Plus, it absorbs the impact of feet and furniture legs, so you may want to replace it sometime-thus, don't glue it. Predrill the nail holes to avoid splitting the molding. Use standard carpenter's glue for corners and intermediate joints. Outside corners are mitered and intermediate joints should also be cut at 45-degree angle for a better gluing surface and to help hide the joint. It also hides any separation in the joint, which a butt joint won't do. Inside corners should be coped, or use a corner block so the quarter-round can be cut square. Don't try to drive the nail flush with the hammer. Use a nail set to drive the nail head just below the surface and fill the hole. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] PVC as a Backsplash?
Q: I'm remodeling my kitchen, which will feature white cabinets, white crown molding and white baseboard trim throughout. For a sink backsplash, I thought the look of baseboard trim would tie in nicely to the overall décor, but I don't want the wood trim to decay when exposed to water. Is there any problem with making a baseboard-like backsplash using PVC trim? A: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is not affected by water, so it should work well as a backsplash material. It won't rot, split or swell. Plus, it has a similar workability as pine. Using standard woodworking tools, you can saw it, glue it, drill it, nail it and use a router to create decorative molding profiles. Use PVC cement to join the trim boards together. To paint it, just clean the surface first and use regular house paint. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Which Is the Best drill For the Job
Q: Which is better; cobalt, titanium or black oxide for drill bits? By better I mean will stay sharp longer when drilling wood, metal studs, drywall etc. ... A: The answer depends on the materials being drilled. Here's a general breakdown: Titanium drill bits offer the best durability and speed for general purpose drilling applications. They're best for cutting holes into metal and work equally well in wood and plastic drilling. Use in steel, copper, aluminum, brass, oak, maple, MDF, pine, PVC, polycarbonate, acrylic, ABS, nylon, composite materials and common stainless steel. Cobalt drill bits offer the best heat-resistance and a rigid thick web design for drilling in extremely hard and abrasive materials such as treated stainless steel (precipitation-hardened), cast iron and titanium. Black oxide bits offer superior durability, speed and selection for most general purpose applications. They're best for cutting holes into metal and work equally well in wood and plastic drilling. Use in steel, copper, aluminum, brass, oak, maple, MDF, pine, PVC, polycarbonate, acrylic, ABS, nylon and composite materials. (Information courtesy Bosch Power Tools, www.boschtools.com) ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam
Hi Michael Give it a go all that is required is to dissolve that which is blocking up those nozzles. Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin Sent: Tuesday, 15 April 2008 08:11 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam Would mineral spirits work, i have a gallon of that sitting around. Thanks, Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Ray Boyce Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 5:10 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam Hi Michael Take all your tips that are clogged and soak them in a container of either paint thinners, turps or petrol and leave them in there for a while this will dissolve the substance clogging the tips. This same thing happened to me recently and after soaking give them a blast from your compressor they are then ready to go again. The same thing happens to spray cans of paint you might only use a small portion if you soak that nozzle and clean it each time no problems. Ray From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brice Mijares Sent: Saturday, 12 April 2008 6:48 AM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam In the future when you are done spraying, turn the can upside down, and spray it for a couple seconds to clean the tip. This will clean it out, then just wipe the part where the spray comes out, and it should be ready to use the next time. - Original Message - From: Michael Baldwin [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:mbaldwin%40cableone.net net mailto:mbaldwin%40cableone.net To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 11:40 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] spray foam Hi, anyone know of a way to clean out the tips of the spray foam cans so I can use the rest of it. kind of sucks if I spent $7.00 per can, and can only use it once. I normally just take a new spray nozzle from a different can, but now I have 2-3 cans with no way to spray them out. Michael [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster .org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=v iew_ http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=v iew_ .org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_ pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 PAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio. ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday .org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail- http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:archive.com%2Fblindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com / If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/ http://www.jaws-users.com/ users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo ! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any
[BlindHandyMan] Reduce Wood Warping
Q: I recently finished adding a deck to my house. I've noticed part of my handrail is warping. I used treated wood, 2-by-4 and spindles for the handrail. Is there anything I can do to prevent or limit the warping? A: For this question, turned to treated-wood expert Huck DeVenzio of Wolmanized Wood. Here's what he had to say: Wood has many outstanding properties, but it is a natural, porous material with individual characteristics, and it can warp. When wood gets wet, it swells. When wood dries out after being sawn from the tree, after being pressure-treated and after rain showers, it shrinks. Uneven drying creates stresses in wood, which results in warping (e.g., bowing, cupping or twisting) or cracking. The degree of warping depends on the species of wood, its grain pattern, uniformity of drying and construction techniques, among other factors. Although it is possible to position bowed deck lumber so that its weight flattens it, or to use screws to fasten securely an otherwise warped piece, there is not much a user can do to truly un-warp a warped piece of wood. It is best to take steps early to minimize the likelihood of warping. For example, you can purchase treated wood that is Kiln-Dried After Treatment (KDAT). This step removes moisture evenly under controlled conditions, so you don't have sunshine drying the top of a deck while the underside faces moist earth. Or, you can get wood with built-in water repellent, which helps to slow down the release and absorption of water. In either case, it is always advisable to apply a water-repellent coating every year or so to reduce further water absorption in surfaces where good appearance is desirable. In building a project, you can avoid long, unsupported spans, and you can make sure to use enough fasteners to hold wood firmly in place. Screws have better holding power than normal nails. As a last resort, it may help to flip some cupped deck boards and encase a twisted column with fascia boards. Badly warped pieces may have to be replaced. Some warping is always a possibility, but this should not discourage the use of a convenient, economical, attractive, long-lasting and renewable building material like pressure-treated wood. For more information on preserved lumber and other maintenance tips, visit www.wolmanizedwood.com. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Craftex B2269 25 Dual Drum Sander Review
It's a good machine but the manual isn't, so I wrote down a few points a new buyer should find useful. With a full inventory of shaper cutters and ample time, I decided to fabricate historically-accurate trim for our house renovation project. When faced with the challenge of making the casings and baseboards, I decided that sanding each piece with a handheld sander or driving over each with a floor sander would not pay off in the long run. The only product which seemed likely to do a competent job on a thousand board feet of stock for trim in the house turned out to be a double drum sander, a sort of thickness planer using long sandpaper belts instead of blades. I actually found one available used, but the guy wouldn't sell it until his larger model came in, and Busy Bee Machine Tools in Ottawa put their two models on sale for less than the asking price on the used one, so the task then was to choose between the two models in the same store. This simplified itself quite soon: the more expensive model weighs over seven-hundred pounds and its narrowest dimension is 41?. This precludes installing it anywhere without a wide door and heavy lifting equipment. Busy Bee had one in stock, however. The still massive, but smaller model weighs 500 pounds and was selling so well at its sale price of $1488. that the job was to nab one before the entire Canadian consignment of machines was sold. Manger Carl Talbot warned me about a couple of things with the machine. Most importantly, a drum sander of this sort requires at least a 2 hp dust collection system or it will instantly plug itself. This meant an expensive upgrade to my current system. He also warned me that the clips which hold the sandpaper make the learning curve on belt installation quite a steep one. Apart from that, he explained, the machines are great, and he can't keep them in stock. I'd had dealings with Carl before and I took him at his word. We wrote up the order, including an upscale dust collector with it. The machine ran well right out of the box, without adjustments. Reviews on the Internet had warned that a normal heavy cut with a drum sander is about 1/64?. The power feed runs off a 12V D.C. motor, with infinite variations on speed between dead slow and full fast. This system works very well, and Carl told me that it's an important selling point for this model. While the 25? Double Drum Sander should not be mistaken for a thickness planer because of its thin cut, it produces flat, true boards with a consistent texture over their entire surface. It proved particularly valuable on wide, glued-up pieces, and would likely do a fine job on cabinet doors and wooden counter tops. Tactics for use of the sander: List of 9 items 1. Cut stock to size first. This thing is slow, and the less wood you must put through it, the better. Similarly, the flatter the wood is, the better. A cupped board will keep you busy planning 1/72? off until you are sick of the sight of its grain. 2. If the machine starts to squeal, that's the drive belts slipping on the sander drums. Immediately lower the table, allowing the drums to spin again. There's no real need (apart from operator panic) to shut the sander off. Bring the table back up to where you had it but slow the feed rate until it works properly. This will leave a lump on the board, but you can catch it on the next trip through by slowing the feed down until the obstacle has been chewed up. Don't worry, you'll be making several passes with each board. 3. Sand as quickly as the machine will allow. Dead-slow sanding will leave boards less smooth than if a very light final cut is taken at medium speed. 4. The belts gum up all too easily on pine. With many door and window casings I found I had to clean the belt after each board by holding a large crepe block against the rollers. A resinous knot would plug the belt and burnish the remainder of the board. Eventually I selected 100 grit for the rear drum, rather than the 120 which came from the store. The front drum stayed with 80 grit throughout. Plugging was still enough of a problem that I despaired of sanding 16' pine baseboards and looked for an alternate material. 5. This led to my last two days of work sanding a number of 12 to 14? wide American chestnut boards recovered from an old granary. Using 80 and 120 grits on the drums, I have found that the belts do not clog with this wood, and the finish is good. I've also sanded red oak and basswood with good results. 6. Some adjustment of the conveyor belt is necessary, but it's not nearly as hard as controlling the tracking on a belt sander. You just twist a pair of Allen screws controlling tension until the belt behaves. If it's pushing to the right, add tension on the right and let a little bit off the left. It will level out if you don't over-correct. 7. Carl had warned me to make sure I had enough length on the belts when I cut them. He was right. The length is critical to
[BlindHandyMan] Animals Teach Us New Spray Technology
The bombardier beetle, found mainly in Africa and Asia, is remarkable in that it can fire a powerful jet of hot, toxic fluid to fight off predators such as birds and frogs. While the chemical reaction that makes the venom has been understood for some time, the actual power behind the venomous squirt, which can travel as far as 20cm, has been cause for speculation. Quantities of hydroquinone and hydrogen peroxide gases build up in the beetle's abdomen but, when necessary for defence, get mixed together in a connected 'combustion chamber' to produce toxic benzoquinone. This hot fluid is then fired off at force in the face of enemy predators. The key to the beetle's powerful defensive trick is in its combustion chamber's inlet (or entry) and exit valves. The inlet valve opens to receive the chemicals, which begin to boil as soon as they meet, and closes when a sufficient amount of gas has been received. As the gases react together, they generate heat and increase the pressure in the closed chamber. When the pressure reaches a critical point, the end of the exit valve is forced open and the hot fluid is ejected as a powerful burst of toxic steam in a process known as flash evaporation. Once the gas is released, the exit valve closes, the inlet valve opens and the chamber fills again, preparing for the next venomous ejection. The research team at the School of Process, Environmental and Materials Engineering at Leeds University has now managed to replicate how the bombardier beetle fires hot venom. In a series of experiments using just water (rather than venomous liquids), McIntosh and his team have been able to fire pulses of hot spray distances of up to 4 m and have been able to control the size of the droplets in the spray. The technique has now been licensed by Biomimetics 3000 Ltd for industrial applications. This new technology is likely to be of interest to firms making drug-delivery systems as it could prove far more reliable than the mechanically-driven spring technology used in, for example, inhalers. It could also provide a much more energy-resourceful mechanism for fuel-injection in car engines and even lead to a new generation of fire extinguishers that can both produce either a fine mist or large droplets depending on what type of fire needs to be put out. Andy McIntosh, from Leeds University, and Novid Beheshti, of Swedish Biomimetics 3000 Ltd discuss this research in detail in April's Physics World. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] How do batteryless flashlights work and can the technology be expanded to other devices?
The main idea behind batteryless flashlights is to use the physical motion of the flashlight itself to provide the energy to light up the bulb -- that is, you have to shake it. What happens is always a variant on the following basic idea: If you have a coil of wire and drop a magnet through it, this will make some electricity flow through the coil and whatever it's attached to. This electricity can be stored to power a light bulb. More shaking means more energy to store up and a longer time for the bulb to stay lit. If you run out of energy, you just shake the flashlight to make the magnet go in and out of the coil. (This basic principle of moving magnet plus coil makes electricity is the foundation for electrical generators, so in a sense this is old technology). The component that stores the electricity is usually a capacitor, which is basically just a couple of sheets of metal held very close together, but not touching. This is also old technology in a sense, but it's only recently that manufacturers could make good enough, small enough capacitors to make the batteryless flashlight concept work. Some batteryless flashlights cheat and use a little rechargeable battery instead of a capacitor, in which case they're only batteryless in the sense that you need not, and cannot, change the batteries! Avoiding the use of batteries has a lot of nice environmental advantages since most batteries have metals in them that are not at all nice to toss into the trash. Why don't we just make everything like this? The catch is in the power requirements. Your eyes are quite sensitive and it doesn't take a lot of electricity to make enough light to see well by. Powering up a drill or a laptop is another story and you would find the physical work required to get these things to run would be far more than you would be willing to do -- so this sort of batteryless technology is really limited to low-power devices. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] 30th Anniversary Giveaway
Hi Lenny Let me know if you are lucky enough to Win that great prise. Regards Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 4:21 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] 30th Anniversary Giveaway I entered. Here is the list of edit fields: * ALL FIELDS OTHER THAN WOOD NEWS SIGNUP ARE REQUIRED * E-Mail: NOTE: E-mail will be used ONLY for notifications pertaining to giveaway * Zip Code (5 digits): * Phone (10 digits): * First Name: * Last Name: Sign me up for Wood News Online and e-mail updates (OPTIONAL) Submittal of this form constitutes my agreement to the I was first able to read some of it with the jaws cursor. Then virtualizing the window I was able to see the sequence of forms fields. I had Karen watch to make sure that I was entering correctly and had no problem. Lenny, Please visit my home page http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ It's motivating, humorous and has a lot of resources. Official Giveaway Rules and Guidelines - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 12:08 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] 30th Anniversary Giveaway If you follow the original link, www.highlandwoodworking.com/giveaway/kapex_giveaway.html That actually seems to bring you to the rules of the contest. There is a link on that page that says to enter the contest click here or something. It is just labeled highlandwoodworking. That takes you to a page and there is a set of edit boxes but they aren't labeled. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.com Yahoo! Groups Links __ NOD32 2945 (20080313) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com http://www.eset.com ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] a laser that transforms MDF giving it a surface
a laser that transforms MDF giving it a surface finish that looks like some of the most expensive wood University of Warwick WMG researcher Dr Ken Young said: MDF is a superb and highly versatile material. It's easy to work with and cheap. It is usually made from waste material so it is much kinder to the environment than using more real wood. But normally it looks rather dull in its raw state. Until now there has been no way to liven it up other than painting it. Using lasers to produce a wood grain in MDF could help bring a more natural quality into homes and businesses without the financial and environmental cost of having to use new wood. The LaserCoat research project in a collaborative research effort consisting of eight academic, research and commercial organisations and part-financed by the Technology Strategy Board. The technology also has great potential for commercial use as it is very hardwearing and can be used for flooring or other applications where cost is an issue but where looks are important too. It can mimic a vast range of real wood grains, it can produce logos, decoration, or even coloured and shaped decorative surfaces using a powder coating version of this new laser technology. Mick Toner, Factory Manager of Howarth Windows Doors sees significant benefits from the new technology for his business, We would love to use MDF for the glazing beads in doubling glazing but customers do not like the look of raw MDF. This LaserCoat technology will provide a grained look that will delight our customers, give us much more manufacturing flexibility and cut the cost of the raw materials four fold. MDF is also an ideal material for providing the thermal insulation required for modern doors. Our customers are increasing using translucent coatings on their doors which are not aesthetically pleasing on MDF panels - the LaserCoat technology cuts through this problem providing an attractive surface for MDF no matter the coating used. The 'LaserCoat' project is supported by the Furniture Industry Research Association and the Timber Research and Development Association. It is part-funded by the Department for Business, Enterprise and Regulatory Reform. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Security Solution
Back when our house was built there was little cause for giving much thought to securing a garage. In fact, so slight was the concern that the door to the backyard had a single pane of glass and a basic handle set, which is a sweet set-up for today's thieves. First, they can window shop to see if there is anything they'd like to have or sell. If access cannot be quickly gained using a credit card on the standard lockset, breaking out the window on the door would be no problem. Don't try to tell the guys at Oregon Carpenters, Inc. that eliminating the window and adding a deadbolt would fix things either. It's a good start, but they've replaced plenty of kicked-in door jambs on windowless doors with a deadbolt. Properly installing a deadbolt with the security plate thoroughly anchored into the framing eliminates intrusion by small or lazy crooks, but the experienced break-in artist knows that some well placed blows will cause the door edge to spread open and the deadbolt to hinge out of and past the jamb. It is often said that necessity is the mother of invention. That is certainly the case with a product called Door Jamb Armor, which was born of a landlord's quest to secure his properties and to prevent costly repairs from break-ins. The system provides the structural characteristics of a steel-framed door and is designed to both reinforce a jamb against break-in or to repair a jamb that has been kicked in. The product he developed was just what we needed to complete the security measures we planned to apply to our vulnerable door. In the end our door got a triple beef-up by replacing the glass with wood, installing a deadbolt, and installing a Door Repair and Security Kit by Door Jamb Armor. While we were at it, we did some door and trim repairs, so the entire job was not only practical but pretty as well. Lights Out A window in a door is called a light, but this light wasn't very bright. Not only did it allow trespassers the opportunity to survey the contents of the garage, it was installed in the days prior to tempered glass, which made it dangerous in the event of accidental breakage. We took the door off the hinges, put it on saw horses and used a putty knife to determine which side of the door had removable stops to hold in the glass. Next, we used a utility knife to cut the paint and caulking between the window stop molding and the door frame. We then used the putty knife to loosen and remove the stops by bowing them in the center to relieve pressure on the inside miters. We then numbered each stop and its location on the door jamb. After removing the glass and measuring it, we cut a piece of plywood the same size as the glass panel and installed it in the door frame. We found that we needed to rip down the stops because the plywood was thicker than the glass. Then we used a finish nailer to re-install the stops that hold the plywood panel in place. Harder Hardware With the window out of the picture, it was time to address the single door latch, which was vulnerable to being carded (opened using a credit card to push back the locking mechanism). We used the door armor from the Door Jamb Armor kit as a template to layout the location of the new deadbolt. We also used a GuideRight door installation kit to center the deadbolt holes in the right locations. When we were drilling the 2-1/8-inch hole through the face of the door, we drilled until we could see the pilot bit of the hole-saw coming through the door and completed the hole from the opposite side of the door. The GuideRight kit had an opening for the edge bore as well. Caution: Even with the guide you need to make sure you are keeping the drill square to the door in both directions. Applying the Armor With the glass gone and the deadbolt drilled, it was time to tackle the wood jamb that offered little resistance to a kick-in. We started the Door Jamb Armor installation by removing the interior door casing. You can avoid damage to the casing, the jamb and the walls by first cutting the caulking between the casing and jamb and between the casing and interior wall. Pull the casing from the center, then the bottom and finally the miter ends. Since our door jamb was originally installed with nails, we used a reciprocating saw to cut out the nails and shims between the door jamb and framing. If the door was installed with screws, try to get access to the screw heads, which are often hidden behind the weather strip. Case-hardened screws are difficult to cut. When we slipped the door jamb armor into place we found that our older door jamb did not have enough distance between the jamb edge and the door stop to accommodate the exposed portion of the Door Jamb Armor. This is probably because the jamb was designed without weather stripping; this is not usually the case. We used a circular saw to cut a slot into the door stop to receive the extra 1/4-inch of the Door Jamb Armor. We didn't have to worry about scratching the jamb because
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Caring for Dentures - How to Take Care of Your Dentures
Hi Jewel We need more humour in our lives a good laugh helps, can you imagine the dog running away with your teeth. From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jewel Blanch Sent: Monday, 3 March 2008 09:25 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Caring for Dentures - How to Take Care of Your Dentures Every time I open my mouth, I get into hot water! whoops, there go my dentures! - Original Message - From: Ray Boyce To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 10:30 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Caring for Dentures - How to Take Care of Your Dentures Proper care can keep both your dentures and your mouth in good shape. These tips will help you learn the correct way to clean, handle and store your dentures. Keep your mouth closed when in dusty conditions as dust sticks to your teeth in the workshop. Especially when blowing down your work area with compressed air. Never take your teeth out and put them on the workbench and then forget they are there and drop something on them. Never try to glue a loose tooth back in take it to a Dental Repair Clinic for proper repair. Cleaning You should brush your dentures every day with a soft bristled toothbrush to remove food and plaque. The same goes for your gums and tongue. Handling Dentures are very delicate and can break easily if they are dropped. When handling your dentures, always hold them over a soft towel or fill your sink up with water. Storing Dentures can become warped if they dry out or are placed in hot water. When you are not wearing them, your dentures should always be kept in water (not hot) or in a denture solution recommended by your dentist. Tips . You should never wrap your dentures in a paper towel because they could easily get thrown away. . Never use household products to clean dentures other than mild dish soap or liquid hand soap. . Always keep your dentures out of reach from children and pets; kids love to play with them and dogs love to chew them up. Just imagine chasing the dog around the yard yelling out give me back my teeth you bugger or something worse. -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1307 - Release Date: 2/03/08 3:59 p.m. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Exterior vehicle sensors
Hi By There are four sensors on the back of her 4 wheel drive and she thinks they are a great help especially in reverse parking. It is the first time we have had them on a vehicle. Regards Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cy Selfridge Sent: Wednesday, 27 February 2008 03:13 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Exterior vehicle sensors Ray, About the first time your wife/sweetie/daughter/son backs into some object and inflects $1,500 in damage that backup system would seem real cheap. I wish our van had it and I think I will probably install one. With the current state of the automobile non bumper a 3 mph crash can spell financial disaster. Just give me my old 51 Packard or Hudson. (LOL) Cy, the Ancient Okie... _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Ray Boyce Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:36 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Exterior vehicle sensors Electronic controls need sensors to be able to determine what is happening with the vehicle. Engine computers monitor oxygen sensors to adjust fuel mixtures, antilock brake systems monitor wheel speed sensors to calculate wheel slippage, and airbag computers use crash sensors to sense an impact. All this is done in less time than it takes to blink. Electronics are now allowing manufacturers to add more sensors to vehicles, many of which help the driver make better decisions about how they drive the vehicle. Rear Object Detection was one of the first of these systems added to vehicles. It was just a decade ago when I drove a Ford Windstar with the sensors in the bumper. This system uses four sonar sensors on the back bumper to identify objects behind the van and a warning beeper to notify the driver if something is there. The usefulness of it quickly became apparent when I started to back out of a parking lot. The beeper went off but I could see nothing behind the van in the mirrors. I hadn't seen anything there when I entered the van so I thought the system must be sending a false alarm, but to confirm this, I walked around the back of the van. There sat a little bush bunny, cowering in fear. It could have as easily been a small child, and the system did warn me. Since that time, I have used Rear Object Detection systems on vehicles from many manufacturers. The closer the vehicle is to an object, the faster the warning beeps sound. Some systems include amber and red warning lights too, so you get a visual indication of how close an object is. In my experience, when the beep becomes a solid tone, you are about 150 to 300 mm away from an object. These systems are worth every penny when trying to back into a tight parking spot, or if it prevents backing over that bicycle. Some vehicles, such as Lexus and Porsche offer front object detection too, which makes parking much easier. Back-up cameras are now offered on many vehicles too. I first used these in large motorhomes, where rear visibility was extremely limited. Now, some SUV's, pickups and passenger cars are using cameras. It used to be you had to have an expensive video screen on the dash so you could see the camera image of the area behind the vehicle. Now, Toyota offers an option with a smaller display as part of the driver information centre, and Ford is displaying the camera view in the rear-view mirror as a feature on some 2008 trucks and SUV's. I like the Ford system. The mirror looks normal until the vehicle is placed in reverse. Then a portion of the mirror suddenly becomes a video display, showing both the vehicle's rear bumper and the area around it. When combined with the sonar-based Object Detection systems, there is no longer any possible excuse for backing into something. Some systems, such as the Lexus and Infiniti displays also show lines on the screen where the vehicle will be when it is backing up. Turn the steering wheel and the display lines also move to indicate the new vehicle position. The newest Infiniti model, the Infiniti EX utility vehicle, takes exterior views one step further by incorporating cameras at the bottom of each side mirror and the front of the vehicle as well. The driver can see how close the side of the vehicle is to a curb or rock (when off-road) or they can push a button and see a computer-generated bird's eye view of the complete area around the vehicle. Cameras on vehicles may sound like an expensive luxury, but there are aftermarket systems available too. The camera is mounted on the license plate - it's not much bigger than a walnut, and it is connected with three wires to power, ground and the back up lights. When the backup lights come on, the camera is powered up and sends a wireless signal to a
[BlindHandyMan] Keeping your car on the road in winter
From coast to coast, winter's icy blast has left vehicles sliding off roads, into light poles and unfortunately into other vehicles. Some vehicles manage to stay in control much better than others. Part of it could be driver skill, but the vehicle you are driving also makes a big difference. Let's take a look at what can make the difference between staying between the ditches and being in one. Tires are probably the biggest single component that will improve winter driving. According to Pirelli, seven degrees Celsius is the temperature where winter tires begin to have more grip on the road than summer tires. Rubber gets harder as it becomes colder. Compounds in winter tires remain more flexible at lower temperatures, so they conform to the shape of the road surface and have more grip. All season tires are a compromise. They work well for three seasons but winter tires, especially those designed to work on ice, provide the best traction. Over the years I have talked many drivers into purchasing a set of winter tires for their vehicle. Once they feel the traction they have with them, they say they will never go back to all-season tires in the winter again. A co-worker recently purchased another set of winter tires for his second vehicle: his rationale was he could pay for the tires now or pay for the accident soon! The tires were the obvious choice. Winter tires should be purchased in sets of four. This provides balanced traction at all corners of the vehicle. Some drivers install only two winter tires and then put them on the drive wheels. If you must purchase only two winter tires, always install them on the rear of the vehicle. This will help keep the vehicle under control. Good traction on the front tires combined with poor traction on the rear makes for an evil handling vehicle that will tend to spin often. Weight balance is also important to winter handling. Front-wheel drive vehicles and pickup trucks tend to be front heavy. The light rear end of the vehicle doesn't have as much traction. A couple sandbags secured in the rear of the vehicle will help traction and handling. Make sure to remove them again in the spring to optimize fuel economy. Electronic stability control systems have made poor drivers look good and good drivers even better. A computer on the vehicle monitors steering wheel angle, vehicle yaw rates, lateral acceleration and tire speeds to determine if the vehicle is travelling in the intended direction or it is sliding over the limits of control. If the computer determines that the vehicle is not going in the intended direction, it will reduce engine power and apply wheel brakes individually to slow the vehicle and bring it back in line. Stability control systems are amazing technology that reacts quickly to the first indications of vehicle instability. They won't however, overcome the limits of lateral force on the tires. Go around a corner too fast and the whole vehicle may slide sideways on a slippery road. Stability control will minimize the danger but it can't overcome a lack of common sense. Traction control is great for getting a vehicle moving on slippery roads but it won't help handling as much as stability control. Antilock brakes (ABS) however, do keep a vehicle in control when stopping on slippery surfaces. The other advantage of ABS is it allows steering control while braking. All-wheel drive is another fantastic handling feature for both dry and slippery road surfaces. Note I didn't say four-wheel drive. Four-wheel drive systems lock the front and rear axles together, which is great for traction in a straight line but makes tires slip when cornering. A four-wheel drive vehicle will have less traction when turning a slippery corner than a two-wheel drive vehicle. Some four-wheel drive vehicles have automatic mode, which drives all four wheels when traction is low and only drives two wheels during cruise or deceleration. This system is better than non-automatic systems but still far inferior to full time all-wheel drive systems. Canadian drivers shouldn't be surprised when winter arrives - after all, it seems to make an appearance every year! Some purchase tires with winter driving in mind. Those are the ones that always seem to get through when the winds start to blow and the snow begins to fall. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
[BlindHandyMan] Maintaining your suspension`
Summer road construction, potholes, broken pavement, and parking lot curbs can take a heavy toll on our vehicle's suspension. Tough as modern suspension systems are, there is always the possibility of something bending, breaking, or shifting out of position, or it may just be to the point of wearing out. Out of sight, seldom glitzy or shiny, and subject to dirt, moisture and impacts, suspensions are often that forgotten part of an automobile. To keep your vehicle in safe driving condition, the suspension should be inspected as part of regular vehicle maintenance. Getting a wheel alignment is a good way to have the suspension checked. During an alignment, tire pressures are corrected and the steering and suspension joints are checked for wear or damage. The auto manufacturers and aftermarket parts suppliers print specifications for the maximum movement allowed in a suspension part. If you have any doubt about when a suspension joint should be changed, ask to see the inspection procedure and specifications. Good alignment shops always have this information. Leaking shock absorbers or struts should be replaced. An oil film and dirt on the outside of a shock or strut is considered normal, but oil dripping from the unit indicates it will need replacing. Heavy duty or premium shocks are far superior to the regular units and don't cost much more. They provide better ride and vehicle control and should last longer. Even if your shocks or struts are not leaking, it may be time to replace them. Most suspension movement occurs within a few millimetres of shock travel. The shocks will gradually wear in this range and the change may be difficult to notice over time. They will still work well over big bumps but handling and vehicle stability decreases during normal driving. If your vehicle handling feels soft or mushy or the vehicle bounces several times over bumps, then it is likely time for new shocks. The change can be remarkable. There is often the misconception that a vehicle needs strong stiff springs to make it handle well. These will reduce roll but at the cost of ride comfort and cornering traction. The best suspension setups use relatively soft spring rates to cushion the ride and they control suspension movement with high quality shocks and sway bars. The shocks or struts do not need to be changed to do a wheel alignment, but often a wheel alignment is required after installing new struts because the suspension has to be unbolted. Having the struts changed before an alignment (if required) will save you the cost of a second wheel alignment. To perform a wheel alignment, the vehicle must be sitting at the proper height. Raising or lowering a vehicle can have a huge effect on vehicle handling because the suspension is working at different angles. The vehicle's centre of gravity will be changed, and a change in the roll centre of the vehicle (the point around which the vehicle's body rolls) may cause unsafe handling. Four-wheel alignment is recommended for most automobiles. The use of independent rear suspensions means each rear wheel has to be checked with alignment with the front. The rear wheels play an important part in the way the vehicle steers. If both rear wheels are pointed slightly to one side, the vehicle will travel down the road slightly sideways. You may notice the steering wheel is off centre as you drive. If both rear wheels are pointed outwards slightly (called a toe-out condition) the vehicle becomes unstable during cornering. This can become especially dangerous on slippery winter roads, as the rear wheel with the most traction now wants to control the direction of the back end of the vehicle. Rear wheel toe-out can cause the back end to snap around or spin during cornering or braking on poor traction surfaces. Drivers may blame the icy road as the cause of their spin when actually the problem may be incorrect wheel alignment and excessive speed. Good suspensions are critical for safe vehicle handling. When everything is working correctly, your vehicle will have decreased tire wear, improved fuel economy, and a better ride. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Ford's EcoBoost direct injection system. Click image to enlarge
Since 1975, CAFE - Corporate Average Fuel Economy - has had a huge impact on the auto industry. In response to fuel shortages in the early 1970's, the U.S. Government introduced new regulations that specified average fuel economy standards. Currently, those standards are set at 27.5 miles per gallon (US) for passenger cars and 22.2 m.p.g. for light duty trucks. If a manufacturer fails to meet those averages for all the vehicles they produce for the U.S. market for the year, then they must pay a penalty. That penalty is $5.50 per 0.1 mpg under the standard. Some European manufacturers have had to pay millions in penalties, while North American manufacturers have so far been able to meet standards. That may be about to change. A new bill has recently been passed in the U.S. The Energy Independence Act raises the required fuel efficiency level to 35 m.p.g. (6.72 L/100 km) by 2020, up from the current 27.5 m.p.g., and we will see the resulting changes to vehicles in Canada. Traditionally, manufacturers have met the regulations by producing smaller and lighter vehicles. That's one reason why cars in Europe are so small - they get great fuel economy. According to Daimler Chief Executive Dieter Zetsche, there are other ways to meet the standards. We have to adhere to CAFE and Diesel is a means to get there. Other manufacturers obviously agree, with many introducing new diesel engines for the North American market. At the 2008 North American International Auto Show in Detroit, Takeo Fukui, President and CEO Honda Motor Co., Ltd announced that Acura will introduce the new i-DTEC clean diesel engine to the North American market in 2009. Other technologies such as hybrid and electric vehicles will undoubtedly have their place in the mix, but even with advanced technologies, gasoline powered vehicles will still be the majority on the road. Gasoline direct injection appears to be one of the new technologies that will help meet those standards. Gasoline direct injection has been around for many years but not in North America because it didn't meet our emission standards. Now, faster computers, more precise control programming and integration with other technologies such as turbocharging has enabled this fuel system design to meet North American emission standards. Regular fuel injection sprays the fuel into the intake manifold, where it sits for a fraction of a second until the intake valve opens and the air/fuel mixture is drawn into the engine cylinder. Direct injection sprays the fuel directly into the cylinder, similar to current diesel engine injection systems, but on the gasoline engines, the fuel is still ignited with a spark plug. Several manufacturers including Lexus, General Motors, Audi, Porsche and Mazda have already introduced Gasoline Direct Injection. Now Ford has announced that they are introducing gasoline direct injection and will have half a million vehicles on the road with this technology by 2013. Ford calls their system EcoBoost. EcoBoost uses turbocharging combined with direct fuel injection to increase fuel economy by 20 to 30 per cent, reduce CO2 emissions by 15 per cent and increase engine power too. Turbocharging is an integral part of the EcoBoost design, as it creates turbulence in the cylinders for better atomization and combustion of the fuel. Direct injection helps to reduce turbocharger lag, so performance is more responsive. These two technologies complement each other. To be introduced first on the 2009 Lincoln MKS, EcoBoost will be used on a wide range of vehicles, from small cars to large trucks. The 2009 Lincoln MKS will have a 340-horsepower twin turbocharged 3.5-litre V6 engine with the power and torque of a V8 engine but with the fuel efficiency of a V6. Other vehicles will get four-cylinder engines with the power of a V6. Ford refers to it as getting more with less - the economy of a small engine with the power of a bigger one. EcoBoost is meaningful because it can be applied across a wide variety of engine types in a range of vehicles, from small cars to large trucks - and it's affordable, said Derrick Kuzak, Ford's group vice president of Global Product Development. The cost of adding the technology on a four-cylinder engine will be paid back in fuel savings in approximately 30 months. This is compared to the payback time of 7 ? years for the cost of diesels and nearly 12 years to recoup the investment in a hybrid vehicle. Kuzak says We know that what will make the biggest difference is applying the right technology on volume vehicles that customers really want and value and can afford. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any
[BlindHandyMan] Painting Kitchen Cabinets
Rather than replace your kitchen cupboard doors etc consider painting them. Cabinets are usually the most prominent feature of a kitchen and greatly determine the room's overall décor. Peeling paint, nicks and scratches, or a dull, dirty finish can plague older cabinets and really sap the pizzazz out of the living space. On the other hand, a fresh coat of paint can do wonders for cabinets and breathe new life into the kitchen. A repainting project can also save tons of money when compared to full cabinet replacement, which can easily total several thousands of dollars. Some repainting jobs are relatively simple. Your situation may only call for some light sanding, a thorough washing, and a new coat of paint to renew the color that already exists on the cabinets. This is a fairly straightforward procedure that requires you to remove the hardware and doors, and secure yourself a dust-free location for painting and drying the doors (the carcass can be painted in place). In this case, the actual paint application probably won't take longer than a weekend, although drying time may take longer. If the project only requires a fresh coat of paint, then consider yourself lucky; a complete refinishing job takes a lot more time and effort. This article covers a cabinet painting project where we stripped and/or sanded the factory finish off a set of MDF cabinets and covered them with primer and an oil-based paint. Here's how we eliminated an old, ugly finish and replaced it witha fresh coat of bright white. This cabinet painting project was part of a complete kitchen remodel. First we painted the walls a chocolate brown. To offset the dark brown, we painted the cabinets white. Getting Started You'll need a drill/driver to pop off the cabinet doors and unscrew all the hinges, handles and knobs. The brass hardware on the cabinets was very dated, so we discarded the old stuff to replace later with new chrome hardware. If you plan to reuse the old hardware, then make sure to store all the loose components and fasteners in a bucket while you paint. Remove the doors and all hardware. Label the doors by number to keep track of their placement. If you have many doors of dissimilar sizes, then label them with painter's tape. The cabinets in this project had 15 doors of various dimensions, so we labeled them by number to avoid confusion when reinstalling. Next, fill any dings or dents in the wood with non-shrinking putty. Most types of putty are very hard once they dry, so remove as much excess as possible. And if you plan to use new hardware with different fastener locations, then go ahead and fill the old screwholes with putty, too. Once the putty has dried, the repaired areas can be sanded smooth. You will need to set up a work area, because removing the old finish is going to be a messy job. You'll need to arrange a large, flat surface to work on the doors. Use plenty of drop cloths to protect anything you don't want exposed to wood dust or paint stripper. Some paint strippers may also require open-air ventilation. Removing the Old Finish As with any painting job, prepping the surface is critical for any hope of success. The cabinets in this project were made of MDF with a faux wood finish, which was blistered and wearing away in various places. I wanted to completely eliminate this old finish to guarantee a good bond for the new paint. You can remove the finish by stripping the paint with a chemical or sanding the doors down to bare wood. There are pros and cons to both methods. I tried both methods. One option for removing the old finish is to brush on a paint stripper. Stripping-If you choose to use a paint stripper, make sure your product is intended for this particular application. The product I used was called Soy-Gel, which I've had lying around my shop for a couple of years. The label said it was appropriate, so I gave it a whirl. I brushed it on thickly-a coat about 1-millimeter thick-and allowed it to work its magic on the cabinet door surface. I found it to be some pretty powerful stuff. After about 5 minutes you could see a definite discoloration in the surface as the Soy-Gel chemically broke down the finish. Twenty minutes later, the old finish was dissolved, and the stripper was ready to be scraped away. Use a putty knife, furniture scraper or stripping brush to remove the gooey material and discard it into a plastic bag for disposal. Again, this process is very messy, so use drop cloths, rubber gloves, and have plenty of rags handy for the inevitable cleanup. The Soy-Gel product is very viscous, so when you scrape it off, it comes up in big, sloppy globs. However, it does a good job; after a single application I could scrape away the old finish and see the bare MDF wood fiber beneath it. The stripped surface still required a little finish-sanding, but most of the work was done by the paint stripper. After about 20 minutes, the stripper had dissolved the old
[BlindHandyMan] How to Fix a Wobbly Chair
Are you tired of that chair that won't stay still? You can easily fix this annoying problem overnight, with only a few materials, and relax steadily in the morning. Materials Needed: * Sandpaper or steel wool * Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue * Wood clamp or tourniquet * Vinegar (if needed) list end Step 1: Remove all old glue from both parts to be re-glued with sandpaper or steel wool. * Tip: Use vinegar to soften some old glues that may be difficult to remove. Step 2: Using Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue spread glue on both surfaces. You don't need a lot. Use a wood clamp, or tourniquet to apply pressure on joint for 30 minutes. For firmest bond allow to dry overnight.Tightening loose chairs is one furniture repair most homeowners avoid. Everyone assumes you need dozens of clamps, a special glue and knowledge akin to black magic to repair a chair - not so. Your total expenditure for repairing every loose chair in your home should be less than $50.00, even if you have to buy everything I list. For now, we'll assume the chair is loose, but nothing is broken. Replacing broken parts is a whole other ball game. The first consideration is the type of chair. If you have a typical dinette set (informal), the chairs have legs that are not perpendicular to the floor and all the joints are glue joints. The legs are glued directly into the bottom of the seat with no screws. Dining room chairs (formal) typically have legs parallel to each other (or nearly so), perpendicular to the floor. The cushioned seat is attached with screws, and the corners of the frame immediately below the seat are held together with a block in each corner that is screwed and/or glued in place. Most chairs will fit into one or the other of these two categories, or perhaps combine features of both. Tools for Deconstruction: * A rubber mallet (wrapping an old sock around a regular hammer will NOT work). This will run less than $10.00. 16 to 24 ounces is heavy enough. * A roll of 1 masking tape * Pencil * Screwdriver * Sharp pocket knife First put a piece of masking tape on each part of the chair to mark its position. I use a simple abbreviation code: RF=right front, LF=left front, etc. Mark each piece, all four legs, the stretchers that run between the legs front to back on each side, and, if there are any, the stretcher(s) running left to right. Mark the stretchers so you can tell which end goes in front, back, left or right. These pieces may look symmetrical but chances are they aren't. They must go back in the same position they were in originally. With a formal chair, also mark the rails, those board-like pieces immediately beneath the seat cushion. With a formal chair, remove the upholstered seat and the screws holding the wooden corner blocks in place. Number the blocks and the inside of the rail so you can put the blocks back where they came from. Now see what you can pull apart just by wiggling and pulling on the pieces. After you've removed what you can, go after the stretchers, if they haven't already come out. Use the mallet to hit the leg, swinging parallel to the stretcher. Hit as close to the joint as possible, holding the stretcher tightly. Continue this process until the stretchers are removed. Having removed the stretchers, the legs should be looser than they were, if not falling out. Use the same process to separate the legs from the rails (on a formal chair) or, on an informal chair turn the piece upside down, striking the seat bottom with the mallet while holding the leg to be removed. Always try to hit as close to the joint as possible, swinging in line with the piece you're trying to remove. You want to pull it out, not break it off. Do this over a padded surface. If the piece separates suddenly, remember you're holding only part of it; the rest will fall. One last note: some joints will be just as tight as the day they were originally glued. The old adage, If it ain't broke, don't fix it applies. If you can't get a joint apart without extreme exertion, leave it alone. Got the chairs apart, did we? No mashed fingers or broken parts? Good! Now let's make them like new again. Tools for Reassembly * Pocket knife with a small blade 8 ounce bottle of Elmer's Carpenters Wood glue * The shortest coil available of sash cord (ask for it by name). This looks like clothes line, but it isn't. Sash cord is the woven cotton rope that was used to hold sash weights in old fashioned windows. If you have a choice, get the larger diameter. * 3 feet of 5/8 or 3/4 dowel rod, cut into 1 foot lengths * An old cotton T shirt cut up into small rags * A section of newspaper * Some Q-tips * A small pan of water Hold the knife at a right angle to the dowel/tenon and scrape the old glue off. Don't cut - scrape. Get it off all the dowels and the tenon ends of the stretchers. Using the small blade, scrape the glue out of the holes that held the dowels and tenons. Again, scrape. You don't want to cut the wood
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Creg K3 pocket hole jig.
Hi Dan Find the Manual here pleas see below http://www.kregtool.com/information_center/product_manuals.php From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Monday, 25 February 2008 13:12 To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Creg K3 pocket hole jig. Just got an early birthday present. My folks asked Teresa what to get me for my upcoming BDay. I guess all my wining about a pocket hole jig came in handy. Very exciting. Now I just have to figure out how to use the damthing. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Removing Rust From Stainless Steel?
Hi Check out our files area look for article 114 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of NLG Sent: Wednesday, 20 February 2008 12:14 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Removing Rust From Stainless Steel? We have a Vulcan commercial range that appears to have been improperly cleaned with an S O S or some similar scrub pad. The stainless steel grill is pretty rusty, the rust actually (I believe) caused by the particles from the scrub pad being imbedded in the pores of the stainless steel. Has anyone delt with a similar problem? If so, what method or product did you use to get rid of the rust? Thanks :) ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Hear It Coming, Before It Knocks You Over.
Members of the National Federation of the Blind (NFB) will testify before the Senate Judicial Proceedings Committee regarding the extreme danger silent hybrid cars pose to the blind, as well as other pedestrians, cyclists, and small children. Date: February 19, 2008 Time: 1:00 p.m. Location: Miller Senate Office Building, Room 2 East Annapolis, Maryland 21401 When compared to vehicles using traditional combustion engines, hybrid vehicles are virtually silent when accelerating and decelerating, making it impossible for blind individuals to detect their presence. To address this problem, Senator Norman Stone has introduced Senate Bill 276. If passed, the bill will establish a task force to make recommendations regarding a minimum sound standard for all new vehicles sold and licensed in Maryland. About the National Federation of the Blind With more than 50,000 members, the National Federation of the Blind is the largest and most influential membership organization of blind people in the United States. The NFB improves blind people's lives through advocacy, education, research, technology, and programs encouraging independence and self-confidence. It is the leading force in the blindness field today and the voice of the nation's blind. In January 2004 the NFB opened the National Federation of the Blind Jernigan Institute, the first research and training center in the United States for the blind led by the blind. National Federation of the Blind ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Working with plywood
Master the use of this convenient and versatile material Working with solid wood is a joy in so many ways. When you see a minor defect, you have material thickness to sand, scrape and plane. But for larger case goods, such as cabinetry and bookcases, solid wood isn't always practical. Covering large expanses with solid lumber that has to be milled, edge-glued and planed can be very time-consuming and cumbersome. Sometimes quality, veneered sheet goods are the best option. Choosing Plywood Sheet goods come in a wide variety of grades and surface types. Particleboard-core stock is less expensive, but has a number of disadvantages, such as excessive weight, less holding power for screws and higher glue content, which dulls tools faster. MDF-core stock is sometimes available, which is even heavier but very flat. My preference is veneer-core stock, which is made of alternating layers of less expensive wood, such as poplar. It holds screws well for hinges or other hardware, and it is much lighter than particleboard- and MDF-core stock. Ripping Plywood Some special techniques are necessary to rip plywood. While I normally use a rip blade for solid wood, it doesn't cut veneer-core plywood quite as well. Because every other layer in the core is actually a cross cut, a rip blade makes a ragged cut in those layers, preventing edging from adhering as tightly. A combination blade does the best job; it is the best compromise when you need to both rip and cross cut simultaneously. Remember that you can't use your jointer and planer with plywood, and that includes straightening edges before applying edging. MDF and particleboard cores will ruin your jointer knives in a hurry. Veneer-core stock will chip the knives on every end-grain layer, leaving a striped knife pattern on all your solid-wood stock afterward. Jointer and planer knives do not like end-grain. Having to get a near-perfect edge straight off a tablesaw is a tall order. But your best approach is to use a long auxiliary fence. Then choose an already straight or slightly concave edge to place against the fence to true up the opposite edge. As long as the fence is long enough, two points of a concave edge will make contact with the fence and still provide a straight travel path. Travel at a reasonable speed without stopping or any hesitation, and an accurate edge is possible. Don't forget the importance of a properly set splitter, both for accuracy and safety. Create even pressure on the board and edging using cauls Solid-Wood Edging Iron-on edging is certainly an option, but nothing beats solid-wood edging for longevity, wear resistance and beauty. Solid-wood edging allows me to rout a decorative edge on the panels without exposing the plywood core. It is vital to decide on routed profiles before choosing the size of the solid-wood edging material to ensure it will be wide enough to handle the profile. For example, if you plan to use a Roman ogee profile with a 3/8 distance from the router-bit bearing to the outside of the profile, make the edging at least 7/16 wide, but 1/2 is better. Your edging will, therefore, be 1/2 wide x 13/16 thick. For 3/4-thick plywood, solid-wood edging should be 13/16 thick to give you something to trim on both sides of the plywood. Most 3/4-thick plywood you buy is about 1/32 undersized, so that gives you an even wider margin for error. Glue the edging onto the straight, ripped front edges of all your panels, making sure that the edging stands proud of the panel on both sides. A clamping caul across the front of the narrow edging helps distribute the clamping pressure more evenly. I like to use my Pony #50 pipe clamps for this job, although this is a light-duty job that parallel jaw clamps can handle. Even other medium-strength clamps will do nicely. For edging that is the same thickness as the plywood panels, glue is sufficient, without any dowels, biscuits or other reinforcements. But for edging that is thicker (top to bottom) than the plywood, more reinforcement helps counteract increased leverage should someone bump into the bottom of the edging. Dowels and biscuits will do, although I find that a continuous spline is quick and easy. You can easily rout a 1/4-wide x 1/2-deep spline groove into the front edges of your panels with a slot cutter in a handheld router. The same groove can be routed in the rear side of the edging material, but don't forget to increase the distance of the groove from the top of the edging so that there is something to trim along the top later. The groove in the edging, which might be something like 11/2 wide at the glue-up stage, can be routed on a router table if you prefer. But the groove in the plywood edge should be routed with a handheld router so that the base follows the mild curves of the plywood faces. It's important to remember that plywood is rarely flat. Many a woodworker has come to realize this problem with sheet goods. However, placing a curved panel on a flat router table
[BlindHandyMan] Cross Cutting Plywood
OutfIt your tablesaw with a cross-cut sled and an 80-tooth super-fine blade Cross Cutting Plywood Plywood also needs special precautions when cross cutting. While a combination blade gives the smoothest edge from one core veneer layer to the next, my primary concern with sheet goods is protecting the face veneer. There is no use in spending top dollar for A-1 black cherry ply only to chip the veneers when cross cutting. While a 60-tooth blade works best for thicker solid wood, plywood beckons for my 80-tooth super-fine cross-cut blade. It leaves the best possible endcut on those delicate face veneers. Keep in mind that zero-clearance protection is required on the underside of the panel, as well as on the front edge (closest to the front of the tablesaw), in order to avoid tearout in those areas. This means you should use a backer board on a mitre gauge and a zero-clearance insert. Better yet, use a cross-cut sled, as it already offers zero-clearance surfaces on the fence and base. I often stack my panels and cut them all at once to ensure they end up the same length, so only the bottom panel requires zero clearance. Panels higher up on the stack already have zero-clearance protection from the panels beneath them. Iron-On Edge Banding An easier option over solid-wood edging is iron-on edge banding, which you can buy from local lumberyards or home-improvement centres. I'm not talking about fake-wood laminates, but real-wood edging that comes in 25' rolls or longer with hot-melt adhesive on the back. Just remember that this kind of edging is only 1/32 thick after application, so the edges of your completed panels must remain square. There is no material thickness there to rout a decorative profile. Since boards don't generally come 25' or 50' long, rolls of edge banding have finger joints connecting one piece of edging to another to form a long roll. These joints are sometimes difficult to see in the raw, but a stain applied later will easily highlight them. I prefer to cut all the finger joints out of a roll before I begin so that I can see what lengths I have available for different panels in the project. Edge banding is easy to cut with a pair of sharp scissors. Cut the banding about 1/2 longer than the edge of your panel and apply it with a hot iron set to the cotton setting (quite hot). Keep the iron moving to avoid scorching the wood, but use the other hand to ensure the banding stands proud of the panel on both sides. Immediately after ironing the whole length, press the banding down firmly with a small, flat piece of hardwood. As you slide back and forth, the hot-melt glue will cool quickly to hold the banding on. Trimming Edging Materials To trim iron-on edge banding, I use a regular angle block plane. A chisel will work too, but can do a lot of damage if you aren't careful. Remember that a hand plane is nothing but a chisel holder that regulates depth of cut. One wrong move with a chisel and you're cutting deep into the plywood's face veneers. For solid-wood edging, you'll be tempted to use a router with a flush-trim bit. Your router has to run on the edge, though, so you'll have to rig up some sort of wider support board next to the plywood in your vise to steady the router. Or you could try placing the edge down on a router table, using a fence to steady the panel vertically. It never fails, though: a huge chunk of tearout happens at the least convenient moment, perhaps damaging the face veneers at the same time. I prefer to flush off solid-wood edging with hand planes. It may sound crazy, but once you learn to use a hand plane well, it can do a remarkable job at this task. I start with my #4 smoothing plane to get the bulk of the edging close to the face veneers. Then I switch to my regular angle block plane for more control to remove the final .002 to .003 or so. A cambered blade easily keeps the cutting edge off the face veneers, and a 50º effective cutting angle prevents tearout even better than my #4. I achieve this set-up by grinding a 30º bevel angle on the blade, which sits in the plane body at a 20º bedding angle. Keep it sharp and don't forget to go with the grain. Grain reversals will require you to plane in both directions for different parts of the edging-something a router cannot do. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
[BlindHandyMan] Perk Up Your Bathroom with Five Inexpensive Upgrades
It's not unheard of in today's booming renovation market for a contractor to charge $10,000 for even a small bathroom renovation. The budget for this project was approximately $1,500-which ruled out major alterations such as new floors and relocated walls. But we still wanted to give this compact, aging bathroom a fresh, new look. To keep costs down, only the elements that needed to be changed were. The renovation included wainscotting panels for the walls, a new low-volume toilet, replacing the pedestal sink and faucet, plus an updated mirror and new light fixture. And to keep the labour budget down, the whole family pitched in! TO-DO LIST: - replace door trim - replace toilet - replace mirror - paint walls - wainscott walls - replace leaky faucet and damaged sink 1. Remove the old sink, starting with the water supply lines 2. Remove all the old wall fixtures, such as this built-in toilet-roll holder, cutting any caulking with a utility knife 3. Use a prybar to remove the old baseboard and the door casing, which were damaged 4. Being careful in the removal stage will lessen the repair work required later 5. Disconnect the toilet's water-supply line, then separate the tank from the bowl before removing the hold-down bolts. Lift the bowl out of the room Installing wainscotting 1. Determine the finished height of the wainscotting panels. In this case, the finshed height was 34 up from the floor 2. Using a long straightedge, mark a level reference line across all wall sections that will be panelled 3. Cut the MDF panels to finished height, then run a thin bead of construction adhesive around the edge of each panel before securing it to the wall 4. The panels are held together with a shallow tongue-and-groove joint. Finishing nails driven into the groove will be hidden by the tongue of the next overlapping panel 5. Finish the wainscotting by face-nailing MDF moulding across the top of the panels and then capping it with another small piece of MDF trim. Fill the nail holes with sandable spackling 6. Fill gaps and any visible nail holes in the wainscotting with paintable latex caulking. Once painted, the caulking will hide a multitude of sins 7. Use a brush to paint the grooved panels with semi-gloss latex. There's no need to prime, since the wainscotting panels were purchased preprimed 8. Now you're ready for final painting. Use a contrasting colour on the upper section of the wall to get the full effect of the wainscotted lower section Installing the toilet and pedestal sink 1. You'll need to install a new wax ring for the toilet flange 2. The old toilet's rigid steel water-supply line was replaced with a new quarter-turn stainless hose, which came with solderless compression fittings 3. Slide shims under the bowl to level it, which ensures the toilet will flush and fill properly 4. Tighten the floor bolts, but be careful not to overtighten or you'll crack the toilet's ceramic base 5. Set the tank in place on top of the bowl, aligning the gasket, and bolt the two together. The new toilet's smaller six-litre flush will save water Installing the pedestal sink 1. Fasten the sink and pedestal base together 2. Mount the faucet supply valves and spout on the top of the sink and tighten from below 3. Before fastening the sink to the wall, make the connections from the water-supply lines to the faucet tail pieces, as well, install the pop-up drain lever 4. Ideally, at least one of the basin's two mounting holes will line up with a wall stud. If not, use a hollow-wall anchor to mount the basin portion of the pedestal sink securely to the wall 5. Align the sink's drain connection with the drainpipe from the wall and tighten the locknut. The installation of the drain pop-up can now be completed 6. Flexible water-supply lines with quarter-turn shut-offs 7. Caulk between the sink and wall 8. Finally, try the faucet to test for leaks Electrical upgrades 1. The old light was centred over the sink, so the existing electrical supply was in a good place for the new fixture 2. Upgrade the electrical receptacle for ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection 3. The new light fixture over the sink makes a big improvement in the overall style of the bathroom. Since it stayed in roughly the same location as the old one, it was an easy upgrade to make Details 1. 2. A pair of chrome robe hooks on the wall outside the shower and a soft-close toilet seat that can't slam down are two small additions that are inexpensive and easy to install 3. The exhaust fan cover had yellowed over time, but the fan itself was in good shape, so only the cover was replaced 4. 5. A new chrome toilet-roll holder and larger, more stylish mirror compliment the updated look of the new fixtures Before Before after and on budget: Toilet, sink, faucet.$1,100 Mirror..$150 Wainscotting...$100 Paint.$60 Plumbing supplies..$100 Total
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Under Floor Heating
Hi David I worked at am Aluminium Smelter and Had to change the Air Motors on the Anodes and I can tell you heat rises from the molten aluminium below, Because you are working just above the molten mass. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David W Wood Sent: Thursday, 14 February 2008 17:13 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Under Floor Heating Heat doesn't raise - Hot air does! Heat is transmitted in three ways: 1 Conduction - migrating to its cooler neighbour 2 radiation - such as the sun's heat reaching us on earth 3 convection - transmission by molecular action. E.G. fluid or gas. David -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Boyce, Ray Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 12:44 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Under Floor Heating It's a simple fact-heat goes up. With that in mind, it seems the most effective heating system would be the floor. New products available today allow the floor to provide very efficient heat. And, don't think radiant floor heating is new. It is probably one of the oldest known methods of central heating. The Romans built a fire below the living space and the heat from the fire traveled through passages or channels under the floors. European kings and queens used a similar system during the Dark Ages to heat their castles. Hot water was one of the first modern radiant systems. As early as 1942 an American company started testing and experimenting with radiant heat for residential use. After WWII a number of huge housing developments used the technique. The metal pipes of the first units installed in hastily built concrete slabs of the time quickly degraded. And the copper, steel and wrought iron piping deteriorated over the years when placed in a concrete slab. Today's plastic technology has produced products that alleviate the problems of earlier radiant heating systems. The plastic cross-linking process produces tubing that is very strong at high temperatures and high pressures, and the flexibility of the plastic allows it to move with the natural movement and settling of a house without leaking or otherwise being compromised. Unlike hot water baseboard or forced air, a radiant floor heating system heats objects instead of just the air in the room. Because every building, no matter how well insulated, constantly looses heat to the outside, conventional heating systems work to replace this loss. Our bodies lose heat to the colder objects around us. We feel cold because of this heat loss. Because heat always flows toward cold, if you are standing next to an object that is colder than your body, that object will steal body heat. A radiant floor heating system does not heat the air directly like a baseboard or forced air system. Rather, a radiant system warms the floor, the chair, the sofa, the tables, and so forth, and this slows the rate at which your body looses heat to these objects. An overall even feeling of warmth and comfort is the result. Interestingly, the air temperature in the room can be considerably lower if your body is in a room full of warm objects. In fact, many people with radiant heat lower their thermostats to 65 degrees and still feel more comfortable than they did with their baseboard or forced air system set at 70 to 72 degrees. It's important to note that in a baseboard or forced air system, the warmest air is at the ceiling and the coolest air is at the floor. This, of course, is not efficient. A radiant system that produces warm feet and a cooler head is healthier and feels more comfortable. Radiant floor heating systems may be hydronic, circulating water through tubes embedded in the floor, or electric, utilizing electric heat cables beneath the floor covering. The latter is available only to specific floor coverings, while the hydronic is not. Most hydronic floor systems are divided into separate heating zones. (Image courtesy of Uponor Wirsbo) Hydronic Systems Hydronic systems, such as those from the Radiant Floor Company, use warm water to turn your floor into a large radiator that sends waves of radiant energy in all directions, warming everything in the room. The methods of heating the water are as varied as your imagination. Solar panels, oil and gas boilers, water heaters, wood boilers, geothermal and electric are all viable methods of heating water for a hydronic radiant floor system. The water is then sent through the tubing via a circulator pump. Additional materials such as manifolds, mixing valves, expansion tanks and thermostatic controls are designed into the system to fine tune the heat for optimum comfort. Before any radiant system is installed in your house, the contractor or the system supplier must perform a heat loss calculation. This is done by determining the amount of heat that your house will lose on the coldest day
[BlindHandyMan] Installation and Preventive Maintenance Of Your Microwave Oven
Microwave oven installation and use To assure safety and convenient, follow these recommendations: * Read your users manual from cover to cover especially if this is your first microwave. What a concept! If nothing else, you may discover that your oven has features you were not aware were even possible. In any case, there may be requirements or suggestions that are specific to your model and will enable you to get the most performance from your new microwave. * Select a stand-alone unit rather than a built-in if possible. It will be cheaper to buy, cheaper and easier to service, and possibly more reliable since ventilation and adjacent heat producing appliances will not be as much of a factor. * Select a convenient location - easy access and not too high or too low. This is particularly important if the door of the oven opens down instead of to the left side (only a few models are built this way, however). * Put the microwave oven on its own dedicated 3 wire grounded circuit. Temporary use of a 3 to 2 prong adapter is acceptable only if the outlet box is properly grounded to begin with (BX, Romex, or conduit with ground) AND the adapter's ground wire or terminal is securely attached to the outlet box ground screw. Make sure the outlet is in good condition in either case. Check that the plug (or adapter) fits tightly and that there is no appreciable heating of the outlet during use of the microwave oven. If there is, spread the metal strips of each of the prongs apart if possible and/or replace the outlet. A grounded outlet is essential for safety. Microwave ovens are high power devices and a separate circuit will eliminate nuisance fuse blowing or circuit breaker tripping when multiple appliances are being used at the same time. It will also minimize the possibility of Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) between it and any electronic equipment which might be on the same circuit. A GFCI is not needed as long as the outlet is properly grounded and may result in nuisance tripping with some microwave ovens. Inexpensice outlet testers are available at hardware stores, home centers, and electrical parts distributors, to confirm that the outlet is properly wired and grounded. * Allow adequate ventilation - do not push it up against the wall or wedge it under a tight fitting wall cabinet (or inside one for that matter!). Leave at least 2 inches on all sides and top if possible. * Do not let children use the microwave oven unless properly supervised. It is very easy to cause a fire through the use of excessive times or power settings. Even something as simple as microwave popcorn can explode and/or catch fire if heated for too long - e.g., 5 minutes instead of my precisely determined 3:41 on high :-). Microwave oven maintenance Most people do not do anything to maintain a microwave oven. Many will go for 20 years or more without any noticeable decline in performance. While not much preventive maintenance is needed, regular cleaning at least will avoid potentially expensive repairs in the future. Most of this involves things that don't require going inside and anyone can do. A shop that wants to add on preventive maintenance while doing some other repair is just trying to pad their wallet - anything that was required to ensure the health of the oven should have been included. :) * Clean the interior of the oven chamber after use with a damp cloth and some detergent if necessary. Built up food deposits can eventually carbonize resulting in sparks, arcs, heating, and damage to the mica waveguide cover and interior paint - as well as potentially more serious damage to the magnetron. If there is any chance of food deposits having made their way above the waveguide cover in the roof of the chamber, remove the waveguide cover and thoroughly clean inside the waveguide as well. * Clean the exterior of the cabinet and touchpad in a similar manner. DO NOT use a spray where any can find its way inside through the door latch or ventilation holes, or a dripping wet cloth. Be especially careful around the area of the touchpad since liquid can seep underneath resulting in unresponsive or stuck buttons or erratic operation. Do not use strong solvents (though a bit of isopropyl alcohol is fine if needed to remove sticky residue from unwanted labels, for example). * Inspect the cord and plug for physical damage and to make sure the plug is secure and tight in the outlet - particularly if the unit is installed inside a cabinet. (Yes, I know it is difficult to get at but I warned you about that!.) Heat, especially from a combination microwave/convection oven or from other heat producing appliances can damage the plug and/or cord. If there is evidence of overheating at the outlet itself, the outlet (and possibly the plug as well) should be replaced. * Periodically check for built up dust and dirt around the ventilation holes or grills. Clean them up and use a vacuum cleaner to suck up
[BlindHandyMan] General classification of lubricants
There is more to Oil's than you think, read on and see. Mineral fluid lubricants are based on mineral oils. Mineral oils (petroleum oils) are products of refining crude oil. There are three types of mineral oil: paraffinic, naphtenic and aromatic. Paraffinic oils are produced either by hydrocracking or solvent extraction process. Most hydrocarbon molecules of paraffinic oils have non-ring long-chained structure. Paraffinic oils are relatively viscous and resistant to oxidation. They possess high flash point and high pour point. Paraffinic oils are used for manufacturing engine oils, industrial lubricants and as processing oils in rubber, textile, and paper industries. Naphtenic oils are produced from crude oil distillates. Most hydrocarbon molecules of naphtenicnic oils have saturated ring structure. Paraffinic oils possess low viscousity, low flash point, low pour point and low resistance to oxidation. Naphtenic oils are used in moderate temperature applications, mainly for manufacturing transformer oils and metal working fluids. Aromatic oils are products of refining process in manufacture of paraffinic oils. Most hydrocarbon molecules of aromatic oils have non-saturated ring structure. Aromatic oils are dark and have high flash point. Aromatic oils are used for manufacturing seal compounds, adhesives and as plasiticezers in rubber and asphalt production. * Semi-fluid lubricants (greases) Semi-fluid lubricants (greases) are produced by emulsifying oils or fats with metallic soap and water at 400-600°F (204-316°C). Typical mineral oil base grease is vaseline. Grease properties are determined by a type of oil (mineral, synthetic, vegetable, animal fat), type of soap (lithium, sodium, calcium, etc. salts of long-chained fatty acids) and additives (extra pressure, corrosion protection, anti-oxidation, etc.). Semi-fluid lubricants (greases) are used in variety applications where fluid oil is not applicable and where thick lubrication film is required: lubrication of roller bearings in railway car wheels, rolling mill bearings, steam turbines, spindles, jet engine bearings and other various machinery bearings. * Solid lubricants Solid lubricants possess lamellar structure preventing direct contact between the sliding surfaces even at high loads. Graphite and molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) particles are common solid lubricants. Boron nitride, tungsten disulfide and polytetrafluorethylene (PTFE) are other solid lubricants. Solid lubricants are mainly used as additives to oils and greases. Solid lubricants are also used in form of dry powder or as constituents of coatings. Synthetic lubricants Polyalphaoleins are the most popular synthetic lubticant. PAO's chemical structure and properties are identical to those of mineral oils. Polyalphaoleins (synthetic hydrocarbons) are manufactured by polymerization of hydrocarbon molecules (alphaoleins). The process occurs in reaction of ethylene gas in presence of a metallic catalyst. * Polyglycols (PAG) Polyglycols are produced by oxidation of ethylene and propylene. The oxides are then polymerized resulting in formation of polyglycol. Polyglycols are water soluble. Polyglycols are characterized by very low coefficient of friction. They are also able to withstand high pressures without EP (extreme pressure) additives. * Ester oils Ester oils are produced by reaction of acids and alcohols with water. Ester oils are characterized by very good high temperature and low temperature resistance. * Silicones Silicones are a group of inorganic polymers, molecules of which represent a backbone structure built from repeated chemical units (monomers) containing Si=O moieties. Two organic groups are attached to each Si=O moiety: eg. methyl+methyl ( (CH3)2 ), methyl+phenyl ( CH3 + C6H5 ), phenyl+phenyl ( (C6H5)2 ). The most popular silicone is polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS). Its monomer is (CH3)2SiO. PDMS is produced from silicon and methylchloride. Other examples of silicones are polymethylphenylsiloxane and polydiphenylsiloxane. Viscosity of silicones depends on the length of the polymer molecules and on the degere of their cross-linking. Short non-cross-linked molecules make fluid silicone. Long cross-linked molecules result in elastomer silicone. Silicone lubricants (oils and greases) are characterized by broad temperature range: -100ºF to +400ºF (-73ºC to 204ºC). Vegetable lubricants Vegetable lubricants are based on soybean, corn, castor, canola, cotton seed and rape seed oils. Vegetable oils are environmentally friendly alternative to mineral oils since they are biodegradable. Lubrication properties of vegetable base oils are identical to those of mineral oils. The main disadvantages of vegetable lubricants are their low oxidation and temperature stabilities. Animal lubricants Animal lubricants are produced from the animals fat. There are two main animal fats: hard fats (stearin) and soft fats (lard). Animal fats are mainly used for
[BlindHandyMan] Classification of adhesives
Adhesives are classified by different classification systems: * General classification of adhesives (classification by structure) * Classification of adhesives by curing method * Classification of adhesives by origin General classification of adhesives * Thermosetting adhesives Thermosets molecules are cross-linked by strong covalent intermolecular bonds, forming one giant molecule. Cross-linking is irreversible therefore thermosets can not be reprocessed (re-melt). Cross-linking is achieved in curing process initiated by heat, chemical agents, radiation or evaporation of Solvents. Curing results in sharp increase of strength, elasticity and stability of thermosets. Most of thermosetting adhesives are based on epoxies, polyesters, polyimides and phenolics. * Thermoplastic adhesives Thermoplastics are Polymers, which soften (becomes pliable and plastic) and melt when heated. No new cross-links form (no chemical curing) when a thermoplastic cools and harden. Thermoplastics may be reprocessed many times by heating or applying a solvent. Molecules of most of thermoplastics combine long polymer chains alternating with monomer units. Polyamides, cyanoacrylates, polyacrylates, polyvinyl acetate (PVA) are typical thermoplastic adhesives. * Elastomeric adhesives Elastomers are polymers possessing high elasticity - may be reversibly stretched at high degree. Elastomers consists of long lightly cross-linked molecules. Elastomers are set (strengthened) by thermal curing or solvent evaporation. Curing results in increase of cross-linking of the molecules. Typical elastomeric adhesives are based on natural rubbers, silicones, acrylonitride butadiene (nitrile), neoprene, Butyl, polyurethane, styrene-butadiene. Classification of adhesives by curing method * One-part adhesives * Heat activated curing adhesives. Adhesives of this type ( epoxies, urethanes, polyimides) consist of a ready mixture of two components. * Light/UV activated curing adhesives (acrylics, cyanoacrylates, urethanes). Light activated adhesives are cured under a visible or UV light of appropriate wave length. Adhesives of this type usually contain photoinitiators enhancing curing reaction. * Moisture activated curing adhesives (RTV silicones, cyanoacrylates, urethanes). These adhesives are cured when react with a moisture present on the substrate surface or in the air. * Anaerobics - acrylic-based adhesives cured between metallic substrates, surfaces of which are deprived of oxygen. * Pressure sensitive adhesives (PSA). Adhesives of this type do not cure. Adhesive bonding forms as a result of a pressure applied to the substrates. The adhesion strength is determined by the pressure applied to the substrates. Typical example of pressure sensitive adhesive is self-stick tape. * Two-part adhesives ( epoxies, urethane, acrylics, silicones). A two-part adhesive is cured when its two (or more) components are mixed. The components react chemically forming cross-links of the polymer molecules. Classification of adhesives by origin * Synthetic adhesives. Typical synthetic adhesives are epoxies, polyurethanes, cyanoacrylates, polyimides, silicones, acrylics, polyamides, cyanoacrylates, polyacrylates, polyvinyl acetate (PVA), nitrile, neoprene. * Natural adhesives (glues) * Animal glue. Animal glue is prepared by boiling animal bones and connective tissues containing protein. * Casein. Casein is made of skimmed milk. The main component of casein is protein contained in cow milk. * Fish glue. Fish glue is made of fish skin containing protein (collagen). * Vegetable-based glues (tapioca paste, soybean glue, starch glue) - aqueous dextrine-based glues. * Natural rubber (latex) glue. Natural rubber glues are prepared from water-based latex emulsion of plant origin. list end Properties of some adhesives Materials Data) * General purpose anaerobic adhesive * High strength anaerobic adhesive * Toughened acrylic adhesive * General purpose cyanoacrylate cyanoacrylate adhesive * Fast curing cyanoacrylate adhesive * Maximum gap cyanoacrylate adhesive * UV cure thixotropic urethane adhesive * Single component high strength epoxy adhesive * Two component fast curing epoxy adhesive * Two component toughened epoxy adhesive * Polyvinyl acetate adhesive ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
[BlindHandyMan] Under Floor Heating
It's a simple fact-heat goes up. With that in mind, it seems the most effective heating system would be the floor. New products available today allow the floor to provide very efficient heat. And, don't think radiant floor heating is new. It is probably one of the oldest known methods of central heating. The Romans built a fire below the living space and the heat from the fire traveled through passages or channels under the floors. European kings and queens used a similar system during the Dark Ages to heat their castles. Hot water was one of the first modern radiant systems. As early as 1942 an American company started testing and experimenting with radiant heat for residential use. After WWII a number of huge housing developments used the technique. The metal pipes of the first units installed in hastily built concrete slabs of the time quickly degraded. And the copper, steel and wrought iron piping deteriorated over the years when placed in a concrete slab. Today's plastic technology has produced products that alleviate the problems of earlier radiant heating systems. The plastic cross-linking process produces tubing that is very strong at high temperatures and high pressures, and the flexibility of the plastic allows it to move with the natural movement and settling of a house without leaking or otherwise being compromised. Unlike hot water baseboard or forced air, a radiant floor heating system heats objects instead of just the air in the room. Because every building, no matter how well insulated, constantly looses heat to the outside, conventional heating systems work to replace this loss. Our bodies lose heat to the colder objects around us. We feel cold because of this heat loss. Because heat always flows toward cold, if you are standing next to an object that is colder than your body, that object will steal body heat. A radiant floor heating system does not heat the air directly like a baseboard or forced air system. Rather, a radiant system warms the floor, the chair, the sofa, the tables, and so forth, and this slows the rate at which your body looses heat to these objects. An overall even feeling of warmth and comfort is the result. Interestingly, the air temperature in the room can be considerably lower if your body is in a room full of warm objects. In fact, many people with radiant heat lower their thermostats to 65 degrees and still feel more comfortable than they did with their baseboard or forced air system set at 70 to 72 degrees. It's important to note that in a baseboard or forced air system, the warmest air is at the ceiling and the coolest air is at the floor. This, of course, is not efficient. A radiant system that produces warm feet and a cooler head is healthier and feels more comfortable. Radiant floor heating systems may be hydronic, circulating water through tubes embedded in the floor, or electric, utilizing electric heat cables beneath the floor covering. The latter is available only to specific floor coverings, while the hydronic is not. Most hydronic floor systems are divided into separate heating zones. (Image courtesy of Uponor Wirsbo) Hydronic Systems Hydronic systems, such as those from the Radiant Floor Company, use warm water to turn your floor into a large radiator that sends waves of radiant energy in all directions, warming everything in the room. The methods of heating the water are as varied as your imagination. Solar panels, oil and gas boilers, water heaters, wood boilers, geothermal and electric are all viable methods of heating water for a hydronic radiant floor system. The water is then sent through the tubing via a circulator pump. Additional materials such as manifolds, mixing valves, expansion tanks and thermostatic controls are designed into the system to fine tune the heat for optimum comfort. Before any radiant system is installed in your house, the contractor or the system supplier must perform a heat loss calculation. This is done by determining the amount of heat that your house will lose on the coldest day of the year in your location. This heat loss is expressed in terms of BTUs or British Thermal Units. The supplier or contractor then designs the system so that the heat output from the radiant floor exceeds heat loss from the house. This is done through a combination of tubing spacing and water temperature. High-tech, cross-linked polyethylene is used these days as the tubing for the hot water. In addition, manifolds and circulators are used to fine-tune the system and direct the water to the various zones. According to the folks at Radiant Floor Company, Radiant floor heating is one of the fastest growing segments of the housing market, growing at a rate of 25 to 30 percent a year. In custom designed new homes it is by far the most utilized heat system. Even homeowners doing renovations are using radiant whenever possible. Of course, the one thing radiant can not do (at least with the current technology) is provide air conditioning.
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Propane a Way of KnowinggHow Much is Left in Tankk
Hi Rob The biggest tank we have here is 6 KG as we have natural gas on, so that idea goes out the door. Ask your Gas Supplier for some tips on telling the Quantities of tanks they service and let us know how they tell. From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rob Monitor Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 10:36 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Propane a Way of KnowinggHow Much is Left in Tankk Well that idea would be a little hard with a 500 lb. tank... THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA - Original Message - From: Ray Boyce To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 3:31 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Propane a Way of KnowinggHow Much is Left in Tankk Hi Rob While looking around for an article, I was thinking how I could measure the amount left in my tank If you had a set of talking bathroom scales and weighed your bottle empty then measured it full and noted the difference. Then by your usage over time you could know when it is getting time to refill. What do you think. We have to adapt what is available to suit our needs. Ray [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] New and questions about an oil gage
Hi Bill WIRELESS FUEL LEVEL MONITOR * Monitor oil level from your kitchen! * No more trips outside or into the basement * Installs in both basement and outside above ground tanks * Takes 10 minutes to install - no wiring needed * Maintenance free - two year warranty Found Here http://www.oil-equip-mfg.com/docs/productsrocket.html From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill and Marie Johnson Sent: Thursday, 7 February 2008 13:06 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New and questions about an oil gage Hi list. I am new here, well actually I have been here but it has been a while. I am familiar with this great list though. My wife Marie and I live in Osseo Wisconsin. we have an oil furnace. In order to see how much oil I have left in the barrel I unscrew that outer rim plastic ring around the oil gage cap and remove the ring. Then I touch the rod, that sticks up from where the cover was. Here is the problem. Our float is stuck down in the oil so the tank shows nearly empty, even after we fill it full. Is there a gage made for blind home owners that is either tactile, or readable in some way? Better still, we have a talking thermostat. I couldn't be so lucky as to find a talking gage, could I? Bill To find out about our lists please go to http://www.geocities.com/wsvh7072/lists.html http://www.geocities.com/wsvh7072/lists.html If you wish a copy of lists please Email us at [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:eyecandy%40centurytel.net or at [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:wsvh7072%40yahoo.com ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Roof Leak - Ten Most Common Leak Locations
Summary: A roof leak is a major nuisance for most homeowners. Finding a leak can be frustrating or relatively simple, depending on location and weather conditions. Leak detection may go easier with these tips for locating a water leak and roof leak repair. Ten Most Common Roof Leak Locations Roof leaks are a nuisance for many homeowners. They can be difficult to diagnose - that is a fact. To make matters worse, different weather conditions will produce leaks in different locations. The vast majority of roof coverings operate using the principal of gravity. This can be a big help in locating a leak source. However, horizontal roof boards can trick you. A leak may actually be eight to 10 feet sideways from where you see the wet ceiling or spot in the attic. Finding the source of some leaks is easy. Others will require detective work and possibly a garden hose and an inside spotter. If you don't feel comfortable on a roof, you will have to find an honest roofer to assist you. Sometimes this can be as hard as finding the smallest leak! Here are some tips that may help you find a pesky roof leak: The Field of Shingles If your roof is older, it is possible that the leak is within the roof field. This means the expanse of shingles, slate, shakes, whatever. If your roof is asphalt, then you can walk around with ease. Other materials such as slate, concrete tile or clay tile may not be so forgiving. You can crack roofing if you walk on it, so be careful. With regular shingles, look at the tops of the vertical knockouts. Look for missing colored granules. Look for cracks. Possibly a nail has backed itself out of the roof sheathing. Simply take your time and hunt. Valleys A valley is a line where two roof planes intersect. Here in Cincinnati we use a metal flashing in the valleys. Some areas use rolled roofing. Other places simply lace the shingles together. Valleys can be big problems if you do not trim the shingles correctly. When you trim a shingle for a valley you end up with a chisel point on the end of the shingle. If a second cut is not made to make this point like an arrow point, then water can travel along the top of the shingle and find its way inside your house. The shingle wrapper tells you how to make this simple second cut. Head Wall Flashings Some roofs stop at a vertical wall. A metal flashing must be in place to direct water streaming down the wall away from the stopping point of the shingles. This flashing may be behind wood siding or in front of a brick wall. The flashing should extend over the shingles at least three inches. If the wall is brick or other masonry, the flashing must bend and extend one inch into a mortar joint. Tar, caulk or roofing cement should never be used in conjunction with these materials. If you see them, it is a sign that someone tried to patch a leak! Wall Step Flashing Some roof leaks happen at step flashings. You find these flashings where a roof climbs alongside a vertical wall. As each row of shingles is laid, a step flashing is installed over the shingle next to the wall. Part of the flashing turns up on the wall and the other portion gets covered by the next row of shingles. Look for rust or holes in these flashings. In reality, if all is well, you will be able to see only the smallest portion of these flashings. Chimneys These devils are the source of many a leak. Chimneys contain four different types of flashing. All must be right or you will have a leak. Plus, the counterflashing that goes into the brick mortar joint must be right. A hairline crack above the flashing can allow vast amounts of water to run behind the flashings. Look for soldered corners of flashing that might have broken or have holes. Do not use caulk to repair these flashings! Plumbing Vent Flashings Newer vent flashings are a concern of mine. Many of these incorporate a rubber seal with an aluminum flashing. The rubber can fail in as little as 10 to 15 years. Look for cracked rubber around the plumbing pipe. The flashing should dive up and under the shingles that extend up roof from the middle of the plumbing vent. The bottom half of the flashing should be exposed and actually cover the shingles. Furnace or B-Vent Flashing These flashings are basically identical to plumbing vent flashings. However, they sometimes have a metal storm collar. These simply fit tightly around the vertical pipe that exits the roof. If they become loose, the storm collars can cause leaks. Ice Dam Leaks Ice dam leaks plague people in the snow belt. These leaks can happen even if everything on your roof is just fine! Ice dams block the natural flow of water down a roof. The water begins to back up under flashings, shingles, tar paper, etc. Once water begins to flow into the house, it can drip for days. The only means of prevention is to install membranes under the roofing. The membranes won't stop the ice but will stop water leaks if installed properly. Wind Blown Rain Leaks Wind driven rain can
[BlindHandyMan] The Secrets to Selecting and Caring for Marble Countertops
Everyone's heard a horror story about marble countertops, and if you haven't, you're in the minority. Marble countertops are known to stain incredibly easily - even from water, which can be a nightmare in the kitchen. But if you know the right way to care for marble and the right type to select, your dreams of having beautiful, low-maintenance marble countertops can be a reality. Matching Your Lifestyle to Your Marble The first thing to consider when choosing a marble countertop for your home is your lifestyle. Now I know that your first instinct is to match a marble to your color scheme, but you'll be much better off if you consider your lifestyle first. You see, not all marble is easy to maintain. Many marbles are very porous, which means they can stain and chip easily. Unless you're willing to constantly clean your marble or frequently scold children for banging things on it, then not all marbles are for you. So before falling in love with a marble, seriously consider how much you are willing to maintain it. The last thing you want is to spend a large amount of money on a marble countertop that ends up staining within two weeks. Low-Maintenance Marble Countertops If you're like most people, when you evaluate your lifestyle you realize you'd rather spend less time cleaning your marble and more time enjoying it. In order to do that, you need to choose a low-maintenance marble for your countertops. If [you] don't want to put the time and the care into it, [you're] probably better off with the serpentine class marble or a granite, just because it does require less maintenance, the director of the Vermont Marble Museum, Robert Pye, said. A serpentine class marble is one that formed through a similar process as granite. It formed through an igneous process. It has a much harder surface and therefore is able to withstand the wear and tear in a kitchen. Typically, the darker the marble, the less likely it is to stain or chip. So if you want a durable marble, it will probably be dark. But don't base your decision on generalizations. It's important to consult an expert when making a decision. I would urge anyone interested in a marble feature in their home to get with people that they trust and know and have a good background in stone to explain, Pye said. There will be differences even in one [marble] quarry from layer to layer within the same geographic location. There will be differences in hardness and suitability. So, it's really a process they need some investigating about. Look for stone distributors in your area with good reputations. When you visit a distributor's showroom, they should be able to tell you which marbles will be your best bet. Be sure to ask the distributor to see the marble slab before purchasing it for your home. Marbles can vary greatly from slab to slab. Just because a marble has the same name does not mean it will look the same. If the distributor does not allow you to see the marble slabs, consider looking for another place to purchase your marble countertops. Keeping Your Marble From Staining If after seeing the different marbles in the showroom you couldn't help but fall in love with a beautiful white marble, don't worry. While the white marbles are prone to stain and chip easily, there are ways to avoid it. The first way is using a sealer to protect the marble. [Sealers] are still recommended to be used and are still very appropriate in some situations, Pye said. An analogy of a car wax would be appropriate in that you're laying something on the surface of the stone that will protect by repelling what comes in contact. But just as in your car wax, eventually [the sealer] will wear away and need to be renewed. If you decide to use a sealer to protect your marble, you will continually need to reapply the sealer. The sealers are not perfect and will still require you to clean and maintain your marble countertops. The second way to protect your marble countertops is by impregnating them. The newer process that hasn't really been around for very long, but is gaining wide acceptance, is a process called impregnation, Pye said. Basically you have a product that you apply that actually penetrates into the stone, becomes part of the stone and repels. That is a very permanent process. Just as with a sealer, you will need to impregnate your marble again from time to time; however, impregnation is better at keeping your marble from staining, according to Pye. When discussing which type of protection to use on your marble countertops, ask your distributor which types of finishes can be used with each type of protection and if the protection causes the marble to change color. What Not To Use on Your Marble Countertop Even with the best marble protection, there are some things you should avoid putting on your marble countertops. If properly fabricated you need not worry about many things, but some of the villains, so to say,
[BlindHandyMan] What you Didn't Know you Needed to Know About Candles
Despite the fact that candles are one of the most popular decorating items in our homes, most of us know very little about them. We all rest comfortably in our candle ignorance, enjoying the colors, ambiance and scents candles bring to our homes. However, despite their seeming simplicity, there's a lot more to candles than meets the eye, or olfactory system. For example, did you know that candles have a lot in common with wine and fine dining and that there are ways to prevent soot, promote a candle's burning efficiency and increase the number of hours a candle will burn? I didn't before I sat down with Rick Ruffolo, Senior Vice President of Brand, Marketing and Innovation at Yankee Candle. And when I got up, my head was so full of candle knowledge it hurt, or maybe that was from smelling too many candles. Either way, here's the candle knowledge he imparted to me. Smell the Lid: Have you ever had the problem where you go to pick out a candle, grab one off the shelf, plunge your nose an inch from the wax and can hardly smell a thing? You try and try, but you can't seem to get a good sense for how a candle really smells, only a headache from inhaling too much. Well, you and I are not alone; it seems to be a common problem among candle customers. And Rick had an easy remedy for the scent impairment. Smell inside the lid. When you smell the lid, there's a big, big difference, he explained What's happened is that the fragrance, when it's all condensed in [a container] and trapped, its what's called creating headspace, and the fragrance actually accumulates in the top of the lid, and when you smell it you actually get the full body of the fragrance. The full body of the fragrance includes the top, middle and bottom not, according to Rick. When a customer will smell a candle [by smelling the wax], all they're getting is what is called the top note, Rick said. And when you smell it [inside the lid] you get the full body, which is the top, the middle and the base note. Light a Candle, Don't Warm it: Candle warmers may seem like a great alternative to having to light a candle. There's no danger of a fire, no sooty ceilings and the scent from a candle seems even more potent. But they're not always the best option. The whole idea is that the melted wax pool services as the way to get the scent into the air, and the flame uses the wax as fuel, Rick explained. So the wax burns away, and that's why over time the candle wick goes down, and the whole candle goes away. Whereas in a candle warmer, it might be good that first time or that second time, but over time it's not going to work because it's driving all the fragrance out of the candle and all you're left with is the unscented wax. So, basically because a candle warmer liquefies all the wax at once, it's letting all the scent out at in one large dose. Whereas burning a candle will slowly release fragrance till the last drop of wax is burned. Plan 15 to 30 Minutes Before Fragrance: If you're a last-minute romantic, be forewarned. From the time you light a candle, it usually takes 15 to 30 minutes before a good-sized wax pool builds and the scent is being released in large quantities. So, if you want your room enveloped in fragrance, plan ahead. Depending on the type of candle you have, the wax pool can happen quicker or slower depending on again the type of wax, the type of wick and the type of candle you're using, Rick coached. But in general if you wait about fifteen minutes a half hour, you'll get a nice wax pool on most candles, and at that point your whole room will be enveloped in fragrance. Stopping the Soot: Stopping soot really comes down to science. Because as Rick explained to me, soot is the result of a candle burning inefficiently. Really, it's just saying that the flame isn't working optimally, and there are a number of things you can do as a customer, Rick said. And this is true of any candle. Don't worry the things you can do are really easy, and you don't have to understand any science to actually do them. First, keep your candles away from drafts. The drafts cause candles to flicker, and that flickering results in soot. Second, keep your wicks trimmed to 1/4 inches. As Rick explained to me, the longer the wick, the more susceptible it is to flickering, and, again, flickering leads to soot. Third, you can use a candle topper, which is a small dome of metal that sits over a candle's opening. The topper helps protect candles from drafts, which, you guessed it, stop flickering. You're probably seeing a theme here. The final clean burning tip from Rick was to only buy high-quality candles, and no, this time it doesn't have to do with flickering. The candle science part of this there is a way that you can integrate the fragrance and the dies and the different types of waxes that companies put together, and the size of the wick and all that, Rick said. Actually, there are all sorts of variable that
RE: [BlindHandyMan] attaching washing machine question.
Hi Ron My main concern is where is the water going to go if there is a burst hose or a flood. As there will not be a waste you would think in the kitchen. Especially if this is in a multi level apartment building. Then there is always the trip factor with hoses running across the floor, not a good idea. From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Yearns Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 7:38 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] attaching washing machine question. I doubt if you can get a hose long enough to go across the room. Rolling it over to the sink is probably the easiest. One could cut the shorter hose and splice in additional hose, but then you have to contend with it being strung across the room when in use. As to tying into the existing plumbing. Any thing can be done. The only limiting factor is time and money and when you boil that down it really consists in money. Is your home constructed on a concrete slab, crawl space or basement? If basement is it finished or finished? Answers to these questions can give someone a better idea of your needs. Which brings up another one. Is the dryer a small 120 volt one or requires the 220 volt plug. If the latter, then does your electric panel have spaces for additional breakers to serve power to the dryer? Then just another money point, how far to this electrical panel? Answer these and we can go from there. Ron - Original Message - From: Angel L Adorno To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 11:21 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] attaching washing machine question. hi list here is another question. I would like to get a washing machine for my kitchen, but the cabinets are not made to put one under and I can not put a machine next to the sink either. the only room I have is right across from the sink. my question is, I would like to get the machine, but can it be attached to the plumbing from across from the sink some how, so that it could Dane, and if so will it take lot. the reason is that I want to get an all in one washer and dryer. this kind of machine washes and then drys the clothing with out the person having to take it out of the machine. the other idea is if I get a direly machine can I just buy a hose that is long enough to reach the sink that I could attach to the faucet. thanks so much for your time. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] New Cordless Drill/Drivers
I think we can all agree that drill/drivers are indispensable tools. Almost anyone perusing the articles of EHT is likely well versed in what they can do and how to use them, so this article will bypass the basics and focus on what's new on store shelves. And most of these late-model advances share a common theme: more performance in a smaller, lighter package thanks largely to advances in battery technology. There's no sense in dragging out the big guns for minor repairs and assembly around the house. A small, lightweight cordless drill/driver comes in handy all the time, and over the past couple of years I've relied on two: Metabo's pro-grade PowerGrip and more recently, Skil's EVO drill/driver (pictured at top). I've owned the PowerGrip for a few years, and it's very compact and comfortable to use, shaped like a fat, curved screwdriver. At only 7-1/2 inches, it fits easily into tight spaces, and although it only generates 4.8 volts of power, it's surprising how much performance you can squeeze from this variable-speed tool. It also included a backup battery, always a big plus. While the PowerGrip uses NiCad batteries, the Skil EVO relies on lithium-ion. This new battery technology is much more efficient than NiCad and allows the Skil to offer more power in a compact design. Both drivers weigh less than 2 pounds, but the EVO boasts 10.8 volts of power, as well as a work light, quick-change chuck and speed dial. The Skil model doesn't have the same beefy housing as the PowerGrip, but my main gripe about the EVO is its balance-the entire driver juices up in its recharging base, eliminating the need for a separate battery. But the catch: With no battery in the lightweight handle, the driver feels a little too top-heavy and awkward. I wanted a marriage of both the PowerGrip and the EVO: lightweight, comfortable, durable and compact, but with plenty of power and runtime. And that's where the market is headed. Metabo's PowerGripII Metabo recently introduced its PowerGrip II, which delivers a jump in power to 7.2 volts due to switching to lithium-ion batteries-and it's still ultra-light at only 1.6 pounds. The PowerGrip II offers maximum torque of 141 inch-pounds, 20 clutch settings, a drill setting and its small size (height of 5-3/4 inches) is ideal for assembly work, carpentry, electrical work or any application that requires getting into confined areas. The driver comes in a heavy-duty case with an offset-angle drive attachment, a 1/4-inch keyless chuck and a 20-piece screwdriver bit kit, as well as two batteries and a charger. Plus, this version of the PowerGrip has a pistol-style handle, and by housing the battery in the handle, the driver has the balance I was missing in the EVO. With that said, there's a lot to be said for the difference in price points. Metabo manufactures tools for professional usage, and they're priced accordingly. The PowerGrip II is a great tool but has a cringe-worthy MSRP of $409. So, although the Skil EVO is not as nice, it's a fraction of the price-$141.99 MSRP, a good buy for a DIY tool. Note: Despite the MSRP's, I found both tools for sell on e-Bay for significantly less-a new Powergrip II was going for $153.99, and a new EVO was selling for $49.99. Bosch Pocket Driver (left) and I-driver (right). Bosch also makes two solid compacts for professionals-the 10.8-volt I-Driver and Pocket Driver. The I-Driver is narrow and oblong with a short, pivoting head that articulates a full 90 degrees. The Pocket Driver features a pistol grip and fits easily into a tool belt. Both tools utilize lithium-ion batteries to drive 100 3-inch screws on a single charge. Black Decker VPX driver. For the DIY consumer, Black and Decker is entering the compact tool market. Also taking advantage of the latest battery tech, the company's new VPX system utilizes an interchangeable Li-Ion battery platform, which includes a compact 14-volt drill/driver, a smaller 7-volt drill/driver and a 7-volt screwdriver. The VPX system provides the convenience of a common rechargeable battery for multiple products. At the center of the VPX system is a 7-volt high-energy battery. VPX tools are powered by either a single 7-volt battery or two 7-volt batteries for higher-power tools. Also included in the VPX platform is small recip saw, an air inflator, hand vac and a flashlight. More Muscle Stepping up in cordless power are midsize drill/drivers ranging from 12- to 14.4-volts. Although the smaller models work great for driving fasteners into soft material and the occasional light-duty drilling, more torque is required for tougher boring applications. Milwaukee Sub-Compact. Milwaukee Electric Tool has a powerful new professional-grade 12-volt Sub-Compact Driver, ideal for a variety of applications including electrical work, installation, finish carpentry and other drill/driving tasks. Delivering 100-inch-pounds of torque in a compact, lightweight package of only 2 pounds, the 2401-22 driver is powerful
[BlindHandyMan] Here are methods for troubleshooting common heat pump problems:
No heat Most heating system failures are caused by thermostat malfunctions, a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse, or--in the case of combustion furnaces--a pilot light that has gone out. If the heat doesn't come on even when you adjust the thermostat to a setting above room temperature: 1) Be sure the thermostat is set to Heat (if yours is a heating and cooling system). If it isn't, turn it to Heat. 2) Be sure the furnace's circuit breaker is on or that its fuse has not blown. Check both the main electrical panel and any secondary sub-panels that supply power to the unit. If the circuit has blown or tripped, reset the circuit breaker or replace the fuse. If the circuit blows again, there is a probably a short in the electrical system providing power to the furnace. Call an electrical contractor. 3) Be sure the heat pump's power switch is turned on; it is usually located next to or inside the furnace cabinet. If it isn't on, turn it on and wait a few minutes for the air handler to engage. 4) The motor may need to be reset because of an overload. Look for a RESET button near the blower motor's housing and, if you find one, press it. If nothing happens, wait about 30 minutes for the motor to cool, then try the RESET button again. 5) Turn off the power to the heat pump at the main electrical panel or sub-panel. Look for a fuse in the power switch. If there is one there, it may have blown. Replace the fuse (be sure to follow instructions in your owner's manual). If you don't have an owners's manual or are not clear about what it will take to do this, call a heating repair technician. 6) Check the heat pump's ignition, according to the owner's manual. 7) If it still doesn't work, be sure the thermostat isn't faulty (see below). 8) If none of this works, call a heating contractor or heat pump repair technician. Insufficient heat If your heat pump runs and provides some heat but not enough, be sure nothing is blocking the flow of warm air. 1) First be sure the thermostat is set properly. Try raising the set temperature 5 degrees and waiting a few minutes. 2) Be sure the room heating registers are open. 3) Check the heat pump filter. If it's dirty, change it . 4) If these simple steps don't work, have a heat pump repair technician check out your system--either the blower isn't working properly or the system is out of balance. Heat pump trips circuit breaker Most heat pumps have auxiliary heating elements that provide heat when the weather gets really cold because the heat pump's efficiency drops too low. These elements automatically turn on at a fairly low temperature: around 20 degree F. When they come on, they may be drawing too much power, which trips the circuit breakers. Just locate the circuit breaker that serves the heat pump and reset it. Heat pump turns on and off too often If your heat pump cycles off and on too frequently, the problem is likely to be with the thermostat. See the thermostat-related problems below for information on repairing this problem. When a heat pump turns off and on too frequently, the problem may be that the unit is overheating because of a clogged filter or blower that is malfunctioning. Try cleaning or replacing the filter. If that doesn't do the trick, call a heat pump repair technician. Major room temperature swings When room temperatures swing more than about 3 degrees between when the heat pump goes off and on again, it generally means that the heat pump isn't cycling on often enough. See How to Adjust the Heat Anticipator. Room temperature goes either too high or too low When room temperature rises higher or drops lower than the set temperature on the thermostat, it usually means that the thermostat is improperly calibrated or installed where it doesn't sense a proper sampling of room air. See Thermostats Report. Blower runs continuously This may be caused by two things: the thermostat mounted on the wall or the limit switch located on the heat pump just below the plenum (the box that distributes heated air to all of the ducts). The limit switch is designed to shut off the heat pump if the air in the plenum gets too hot. Check the thermostat to see if the Fan switch has been turned on. If it has, turn it to Off or to Auto. If it is set to Off or Auto already, the heat pump's limit switch must be adjusted. Call a heat pump repair technician to adjust the limit switch or, if you are handy with this type of repair, follow the instructions in your owner's manual to reset the pointers on the fan side of the limit control. The lower pointer should be set to about 90 degrees F and the upper one should be at about 115 degrees F. Air handler squeals Squealing sounds from a forced-air heat pump generally occur when the belt that connects the motor to the fan slips. If the blower is making a grinding noise, shut off the unit and call a heat pump repair technician --the motor's bearings are probably shot. In most cases, the belt is improperly aligned or worn and
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Request for Ray.
Hi Dan Not today I have too much work to do here but I will look around during the week if they leave me alone for long enough. I think they have a hide asking me to do work here when I would rather do work for the Blind Handy Man List. Catch you later. Regards Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Tuesday, 29 January 2008 02:40 To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Request for Ray. Ray, Now that you have given me the knowledge to to a dropped ceiling in my basement, how about digging up some information on raised floor systems? If I am ever to finish my basement, I have to do something about the floor. It slopes too steeply toward the center to place furniture down there. I thought that maybe a raised floor system like you see in computer rooms could work to help level the floor and still give access under the floor if necessary. The flooring system would have to be adjustable so that I could compensate for the varying slope of the floor. Thanks. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Dan's Basement Level Problem
Hi Dan I have had a look around and could not come up with a answer to your question. However because the floor has such a huge slope into the drain this is what I suggest. You have to run string lines from the back to the front and from side to side over the waste area. Then you have to extend the waste up just a little under the strings where they cross . You then have to knock out the waste grill and extend your new extension down into the old waste. You can buy wastes with removable grills in them this is the type we have in our new shower. I do not know what the waste pipes are made from but you could extend up by using plastic or what ever you use over there. Now you have to fill around the area to bring the floor up to a level which your string lines show. You could use crushed rock leaving about three inches to fill with cement so cutting the cost of cement but around the waste slope it a little down towards the waste so it has a small falls if water can drain out. If you want to keep the head height as is you could then paint the floor with a water proofing agent oar rubber based paint. It is difficult to suggest a solution not being able to run my hands over the area but ask your brother in laws what would they do to rectify this problem the more suggestions the better. The bottom line is the waste has to be extended up and then the floor filled in. Regards Ray ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Top 10 Safety Tips on Handling Electrical Wiring
a look at our top ten list of electrical safety precautions. 10. Use a voltmeter. Knowing the voltage is essential before starting any type of electrical repair. By knowing the voltage of a faulty power source, you can already identify some of the probable causes of a wiring problem. You can also use the voltmeter to check if you have actually fixed a particular wiring issue. If the voltmeter shows you that the wires are still not transmitting the right amount of power, you can do some more wiring alterations until the voltmeter reads out the correct voltage. Don't worry: Voltmeters are easy to use and install. 9. Wear safety goggles if necessary. Working on high-voltage wiring problems can produce powerful sparks. A powerfully charged spark from electrical wires can blind you if it hits your eyes. The bright light produced by these large sparks can also daze you while you are handling sensitive wiring. You can protect yourself from these hazards by wearing a pair of safety goggles. Armed with anti-glare lenses, a good pair of safety goggles will shield your eyes from the harsh effects of electrical sparks. 8. Wear rubber gloves just to be sure. Live wires are like wild animals. They can unpredictably go in different directions without a care for human safety. The only way you can tame these beastly wires is to wear rubber gloves. 7. Phone a friend. This step may sound silly, but a companion can always come in handy. Some of the work may require the use of both of your hands. Having a personal assistant for this type of job makes work faster, since he can literally give you a helping hand. If he is knowledgeable about handling electrical wires, then you can finish things up faster. But if he is only as good as his corny jokes and stories, he can still help relieve stress. Besides, if you get electrocuted, he can rush you to the nearest hospital in an instant. 6. Arm yourself with a manual. The lessons about voltages and electric waves you learned in high school are hard to remember now, and some students had to emulate MacGuyver to find ingenious ways to pass their exams. In your case, you can also imitate Mr. MacGuyver by reading a few repair manuals before attacking your wiring problem. After browsing through a few manuals, you can look like a genius as you breeze through all the wiring problems thrown at you by your home and office. If you're having trouble finding a repair manual, you can find hundreds of them posted on the Internet. 5. Make sure that the work area is dry. Water is a very good conductor of electricity. An electric current can pass through water without losing much of its potency. Strong electric charges can easily jump from a wire to a wet area at the speed of an idea. Touching electrically charged water is just as dangerous as touching a live wire, which is why you should make sure that your work area is dry. 4. Wear footwear that has non-conductive soles. There are cases when the presence of water in the work area is inescapable. The sudden occurrence of rain or a leaky roof can signal danger for the person fixing the electrical wiring. To avoid such dangers, it is a must for you to wear rubber boots, shoes or sneakers with thick soles in the work area. 3. Use tools with rubber handles. Consider your tools useless if they don't have rubber handles. To effectively bend or cut wires, tools such as pliers and wire cutters are made of metal. Metal is a very good conductor of electricity. A charged wire will pass its strong electric current through the metal frames of your wire manipulating tools, but will ground if it meets rubber. Consider yourself fried the minute you a tool missing its rubber handle. 2. Switch off the power. Switching the circuit breaker off is always the most important step when tackling most wiring problems. Working with powered wires can be deadly, even if you are using all of the safety equipment available. If the wires pack several hundred volts, the charge is strong enough to pass through the thickest of rubber gloves. You can eliminate the danger of handling electric wires by simply switching off the power. 1. If all else fails, hire a professional. There is no better tip than to let the professionals handle the most complex tasks. If you find yourself stuck in a certain repair procedure or you simply don't know what to do next, don't force the issue. You could mess things up even more. Just hire an electrician to do the job for you. These people work wonders in the field of electrical engineering. They are well-trained and most of them have worked on more complex matters than what you currently have. For the right amount of cash, you can consider all of your problems solved. Handling electrical wiring can be dangerous if you are not aware of all the safety issues. One false move can cost you an arm, a leg or worse, your life. If you have enough cash, don't think twice about letting your electrician handle the problem. If you believe that
[BlindHandyMan] How to pick a Low Flow Toilet
Over 10 years ago back in 1994 a Federal Law mandated the use of 1.6 Gallon per flush Low Flow Toilets. This meant that companies had to rush to market designs that were less then up to the task of the standard 3.5 gallon tanks that most home owners were use to but today there have been many advancements. As a matter of fact there are many companies that are surpassing that 1.6 Gallon requirement and offering 1.4 even 1.2 gallon flushes saving home owners tens of thousands of gallons of water each year. The reason this is so important for our environment is that less water has to be sent to homes for flushing. The water that comes into a house doesn't know how it is going to be used so all of it has to go through treatment meaning chemicals. This is not only costly on our environment but it is also costly in our pockets as our local water treatment plants have to be expanded to provide more water when new homes are built. As a consumer and not a conservationist you can look at it this way... They build a larger water treatment plant = higher taxes, you use more water in your toilet = higher water bill , They treat the sewage leaving your house = higher taxes. No matter which way you look at it someone is getting paid every time you flush. So, what things should you look for when picking a low flow toilet? The first and most important is the flush volume needed: Toilet flush needs range from about 1.6 to 1.2 gallons and you must take into account the number of people in your house and ages when you factor if you should select an ultra-low flow toilet because even though technology has improved if all other factors are the same you will see less clogging in a 1.6 gallon unit then in the ultra low models. The second most important design feature is the width of the waste trap. The Toilet waste trap is the built into the bottom of the bowl and is the pipe that the waste exits. If you look down into your toilet you can see the initial opening and if you look on the side of some toilets you can see the S Snake of the Trap. What you want is the largest opening that is available in the selection you choose from. So if you have the choice between a 1-7/8ths inch trap and a 2-1/4 inch trap width you want to pick the larger size. Trap Glazing When you look on the outside of your toilet you will see a ceramic glaze which is shiny and colorful. This is the same stuff that is on a ceramic dish or vase. Glaze is actually colored glass. What happens is a paint type slurry made of Silica sand and other additives is painted on the outside of the toilet and then it is placed in an oven and baked at thousands of degrees Fahrenheit. This turns the Silica into a Glass and it give the Ceramic piece a smooth surface that is easy to clean. This is the same idea in toilets and many brands even the higher priced ones do not have a fully glazed trap. This causes clogging due to friction and whatever model you choose you should always go for a fully glazed trap unless you enjoy using a plunger. Power assisted flushing mechanisms are relatively new to the market and may or may not aid in the flow of your toilet. The basic idea is that a bladder or air pump forces the water through the toilet at a higher rate. They are showing up in the lowest flow models but they add substantial costs to the initial purchase and also for repairs later. Choosing a non conventional flush mechanism also means the lack of parts to repair your toilet so you can expect to have to order parts instead of just picking them up at any and every store that has plumbing supplies. epa water saving toiletsThese are the basics when you are looking at conventional low flow toilets other types of toilets are available for cabins and remote locations that actually use no water at all and simply burn the waste in a small furnace. Eventually we might all end up using such systems but for now a 1.6 or lower flow toilet is a great solution for your remodeling or new building needs. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Introduction to Rainwater Collection in Residential Construction
The collection of rainwater for drinking and general use is not something new but as we have seen in the past 10 years droughts are now common in the USA. As of October 2007 over 40% of the United States is under drought conditions both due to increased building and low amounts of rainfall. For these reasons it is important to understand our impact on the land and when we can make modifications that will both save us money and precious water resources. In other HowTos we will cover how we can reduce our use of water but here we will explain the concepts of rainwater collection. In general rainwater for use in drinking is a serious commitment. If you live in a location that allows you to collect your water for potable reasons such as drinking and washing of food and your body you need to have not only a clean but pure water reserve. This means that the water that is collected from the roof of your home must be collected and stored in an approved Potable Water container called a Cistern. A Cistern is a Tank that is made out of various types of materials. I have seen people make concrete block structures that are lined with a food grade rubber material and there are off the shelf Plastic Stainless Steel and Aluminum Cisterns that are manufactured and past testing for drinking water. There are also lower grade Cisterns that are made of plastics that can only be used for gray water uses like washing clothes and flushing toilets. And the lowest grade containers are only good for watering landscaping and may not be suitable for vegetable gardens. This is a very important aspect to rainwater collection that can not be overlooked because if the tank that you store the water in has been previously used for petroleum or pesticides there is no way to ever clean it well enough for human consumption. Additionally as said above there are different grades of Plastic containers and although you may save a few hundred dollars the lower grade containers are never good enough for drinking water. Always ask for Potable Water containers and if you decide to build your own tank ask for a Potable or Food Grade Liner that looks just like a Swimming Pool Liner but can be used to make safe container tanks. Ok so now we know that we will collect the water from our roof and we will store it in a potable grade container if we are drinking it. Well how do we get it off the roof into the container and where do we put the container? When you purchase your container you can buy either above ground or below ground containers that can withstand someone walking over them. If you have the option below ground is great because it frees up area in your yard. If you are thinking about using rainwater for your total needs you may need to install up to a 10,000 gallon water tank which is rather large. Something of that size is about 10'x10'x10' or a 10 foot cube of water. If you are installing a smaller tank you can locate it above ground but either choice you make you should allow for easy access to the manhole because you will need to check and add chemicals to your water every few months. A total clean out and scrub down should be performed between 12 and 18 months depending on your location. To get the water from the roof into the tank you will use your rain gutters but you will need to make some adjustments to them. If you have a 3? gutter you may want to increase the size. Your down spouts will need to be retrofitted with a roof washer clean out which will allow the first hundred gallons of water to be discarded because it will contain dirt from the roof. The rest of the water can be piped to your tank with PVC pipe. Although it is recommended that you use CPVC pipe in external applications because it is UV protected the plain schedule 20 or 40 PVC waste pipe that you get at your supply store will last a long time. You could even paint the outside with latex paint to extend its life but it is probably not necessary. Now that the water is in your tank you need a way to get it back out so you can use it. A shallow Well pump is your best bet they cost about $100 and can supply your whole house or give you enough pressure to water your garden and lawn. Most are rated at about a 50 foot head which means they can push the water up to the second story of the home. Before you can drink your water it must be filtered and decontaminated. Some home owners use a chemical treatment in the tank which is why you should allow easy access to your tank at all times even if it is buried. Other home owners use a Mechanical filter that everyone has seen at the home stores but to purify the water you will also need a UV Light Filter that basically exposes the water to UV Light and frys the bacteria. Proper instillation of UV Filters is important and you must maintain them so you will either need extensive research or a professional to install one correctly. Well thats about it you collect the water off your roof and store it in a tank then use a
[BlindHandyMan] Respirators and Dust Masks - Know the Difference
How often do you see someone wearing a pair of gloves to protect their hands or steel toe boots to protect their feet but when it comes to working in dusty or toxic conditions they seem to think its ok to not wear lung protection. As someone that use to paint Cars and Airplanes for a living I can't tell you how many shops I have worked in or visited where employees think its not manly to protect themselves from poisons and particulates. After the first few months of coming home and spending 10 minutes spitting out Auto body Primer and blowing my nose to get the auto body filler out of my sinuses I decided that any garbage I would take from my fellow workers was not as harsh as ending up in a hospital bed with lung cancer or some other disease. The fact is one of the worst problems for all trades people is dust and toxic fumes used in their workplace. For plumbers there is the problem of fumes from lead solder and PVC cements and particulate in the form of Asbestos insulation. For Carpenters there is the constant dust from sawing wood. Until a few years ago Pressure Treated Woods had highly toxic chemicals and still today there is a problem with inhaling both wood particles and the adhesives used in Plywood and Glue Laminated products. Insulation contractors have had Asbestos removed from their workplace unless they are working on old projects but there is a now little talked about problem with Fiberglass Insulation that has been recognized by both manufactures and the government to be a cause for lung damage. Additionally sprayed foam based insulation either iso or urethane have been known to damage lungs both at the time of inhalation and long term effects due to out gassing. Painters have to deal with Volatile Organic Chemicals and recently most manufacturers are moving to a Low VOC mix where water based stains and polyurethanes are starting to replace oil and petroleum paints. The fact is that anything that enters your lungs even if it is inert (not toxic) can end up causing severe health problems. So, what can we do to protect ourselves on the job? Well the very least we can do is follow Manufacturer recommendations when working with products that could enter our systems. You should always read the warning labels on products that you use and if you have any concerns that there could be additional problems because you work with the product on a day in day out basis then you can visit manufacturer's and government websites to get some more basic information. For people that think dust masks and respirators are a joke I hope they have a good health care plan and a manager that will visit them in the hospital and take care of their kids. Lets go over the basic differences between Particulate / Dust and Chemical / Toxin protection available to us. Dust Masks Our first line of defense in most situations is a dust mask. Everyone has seen them they are white paper masks that fit over your mouth and nose and help to stop the larger particles of dust and paint or other larger items from being inhaled. Their cost and quality can range a bit but because they have no chemical filtration ability you can only use them in situations where a good outside air supply is available and when volatile chemicals and pesticides are not present. A Volatile Chemical can be seen in Paint Thinners and Gasoline and other products of that type. This is something that you can't stop without filtration. Dust masks are generally good for: Cleaning up job sites Sawing Wood Painting Latex or other low Toxic Paints with a spray gun Light Sanding where no Lead Paint is involved Use of weed wackers and law mowers in dusty conditions. Proper use of a dust mask means that the mask will fit tightly on your face. If you have a beard or mustache you are probably out of luck. You can try using one but facial hair is not a known good filter of anything except food getting into your mouth. Other then that we need to move up to the next level of protection. Respirators There are two basic types of respirators. Charcoal Cartridge / Light and Medium Duty and Inline Forced Air (see next page) Charcoal Cartiridge Masks can do a pretty good job protecting your lungs for short periods of time if they are used correctly. Each Cartridge system has different products that it can protect you from. If you are spraying pesticides you do not want to use a Cartridge that protects against asbestos or some other particulate. READ THE PACKAGE! The cartridge canisters may look the same but they do not work the same and it may be just as bad as using no protection at all if you buy the wrong filter cartridge. One or Two Cartridge Masks The main choice of using a 1 or 2 cartridge mask is the amount of time that you will be working. Each cartridge has a life time of use and this may be from only a couple hours to many hours. When you use a 2 Cartridge System you extend your work time between cartridge changes and you also allow for better
[BlindHandyMan] Southern Pine Span Tables for Joists Rafters
Hi All Southern Pine Span Tables for Joists Rafters Below is the Url http://www.southernpine.com/spantables.shtml ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Installing a Drywall Access Panel
Sometimes there is a need to have access to pipes or other things that hide within our homes walls. The easiest way to provide a clean looking solution is to install a plastic access panel. They come in a variety of sizes. Install with only a few simple tools. Can be painted to match your wall. In our example we are building a basement wall. Behind the wall is our waste line clean-out. To be able to access the pipe at a later time we find the smallest access panel we can. Before we installed the piece of drywall covering the pipe we took measurements from the floor up and from the wall on the right side to the center of the pipe fitting. With a drywall saw cut a small opening just to check that the pipe is found. Place the frame of the access panel on the wall and draw a line around the inside of the opening. You will need to cut the opening slightly larger then the line you draw so the frame will fit into the drywall. Now just cut out the drywall. Give the frame a test fit to make sure the opening in the drywall is large enough. Apply Construction adhesive on the back of the frame. Press the frame into place then remove it so you can make sure that adhesive is contacting all around the opening. It is important to have a good glue bond all around the opening because when you use the access panel later the glue will need to withstand the prying needed to get the cover off. Now that we have checked the glue and the panel seems to fit ok insert the frame and then insert the panel cover. You can use a few pieces of tape to hold the cover in place until the construction adhesive drys overnight. Check the directions for your access panel to see how latex paint should be applied. You may not need to use a primer on the plastic so when you prime your wall you should stay away from the access panel. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Installing a Sillcock - Outside Faucet
Most homes will have an outside faucet to hook up your hose in the front and back of your house but sometimes the faucet is not in a good location for watering your garden or washing your car. Here we will cover the steps needed to install a Sillcock. You should have a good understanding of basic plumbing. If you feel this job is outside your basic abilities then you may want to ask a friend to help or have a plumber perform the work. Leaks from plumbing are the most common reason for insurance payments. Most often it is a leaky clothes washer hose or a water heater but if you install a pipe yourself you may need an inspection and you may need to notify your insurance agent. You will need the following tools to complete the job. Copper Pipe Cutter PVC Pipe Cutter or Hack Saw Propane Torch Kit Solder, Plumbers Flux, Sand Paper Pliers Teflon Tape and PVC Glue 1/2? Drill and assorted Drill Bits Rags Eye Protection The first thing we should cover is the difference between a Hose Bib and a Sillcock. The first thing we should cover is the difference between a Hose Bib and a Sillcock. Although they do look some what the same you will notice that the Sillcock has an extended pipe that enters deep into the home. Sillcocks can come in 6? to 12? lengths and you should always pick the longest reasonable size. The reason they are so long is because unlike a Hose Bib where the valve that controls the water is exposed to the outside elements. The Sillcock places the valve at the end of the long pipe. This is so in the winter the valve is protected from freezing. If you own an older home and find that you are constantly repairing your Hose Bibs it might be a good idea to install the longer Sillcock. And for practical reasons Hose Bibs should be reserved for heated areas of your home like a utility hose connection in the basement or on a hot water heater. Ok now we can get started. First we need to find the place on the outside of the home where we want to place the Sillcock. You will want to locate the Sillcock at least a foot in from the corners of the home and away from door openings and not under windows. Our Sillcock will be placed on the front wall of the garage to make it easy to wash the car. At this time the inside of the Garage has not been drywalled so it is a perfect time to run our lines. We are also lucky to have a Utility Sink in the garage so we can tap off of the cold water feed to the sink. Our original lines are CPVC but where the Sillcock enters the garage we will use Copper Pipe because it can withstand the vibration and abuses of connecting and disconnecting a hose. We have selected a 6? Sillcock that will extend out of our 2×4 wall inside the house. This will allow us to cross our corner outside of the wall without need to cut into the framing of the house. First make a hole in the OSB Sheathing from the inside of the house. Press your bit into the siding that covers the outside of the house just far enough that it makes a hole with the centering part of the paddle bit. Then go outside and complete the hole by drilling through the siding. You can now place the Sillcock in the hole and get a better idea how it will sit. We place a 2×4 up against the OSB and toe nail it into the studs on either side. then we to to the outside of the wall and drill back through the 2×4 so the Sillcock can run through it. It is important to properly support the Sillcock so we add a second 2×6 piece under the 2×4 and use it as a ledge. We will anchor our Sillcock and copper pipe to this board. When we are finished this area will be boxed in and drywalled over while still allowing a removable access plate in case we need to service the Sillcock. Here you can see we are prepping the Copper pipe that will connect to the Sillcock. First we cut the pipe to length using a tubing cutter. A hack saw will also work but it is better if you use a Tube Cutter as the cuts will be perpendicular and straight and they will not have the jagged edge that a hack saw leaves. All the parts are cut to size and test fitted. Each piece of copper that is joined, both the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting must be prepped. We use black emery cloth sand paper to remove the oxidation on the area that we want to solder. Just rub the sand paper on the pipe until about 1 inch is clean and bright. Now we have to add some Flux to the areas we want to accept Solder. Flux will let the solder run smoothly on the pipes surface and it will insure that impurities are not introduced when you are soldering. Basically any place you put the flux will get solder on it so use it sparingly but apply it to all parts just like you did with the sand paper. Wires can be soldered with a soldering iron but to join pipe you have to use a propane torch. Read the instructions for your torch before you begin. The Blue Cone inside of the outer yellow orange flame is where
[BlindHandyMan] How to Paint Wood Doors
With proper maintenance a wood door can last as long as metal alternatives. As with any other painting project prep work is 70% of the job. The actual painting of the door will not take long but you should follow a few basic steps to get the best finish. First you must decide if you can remove the door. This is the best option because it will give you easy access to sand and paint. A door placed horizontally will also have less chance of paint runs. If you can not remove the door to paint it because of security or other reasons you should take care to let others know you are painting and that the paint will be wet for some time after you finish your work. Interior doors are very easy to remove. First open the door and remove the lock set and knob. To remove the knob you will need a philips head screw driver. First remove the plate covering the throw. Next on the locking side of the door remove the two long screws that hold the knobs in place. Remove one side of the knob and carefully inspect how the knob assembly is installed. Make notes or a diagram if needed. This is a relatively easy process but if you have never done this it is good to take notice. Now with a chisel or large flat head screwdriver remove the pins that hold the hinges on. Since the hinge side that is attached to the door may become lose if you remove the screws that hold the plate to the door it is not suggested that you remove this part but you can use masking tape to protect it from sanding and painting. Now that the door is removed you should inspect and repair the door jam. It is important to have the jam finished before the door so you can reinstall the door without problems. If needed apply any wood filler to repair dents, glue, caulk and fasten any loose moldings. Sand the jam for paint using a 220 sand paper and apply the thinest coat of paint that you can while providing full coverage. If you have many layers of old paint on the door you may want to use a liquid stripper to remove the paint. Be careful when removing or sanding paint that you know to be older then 1975 because there is a good chance that it may contain lead. Now that the door jam is done and drying lets get to work on the door. The first thing you need to do is inspect the door for damage. If it is an exterior door check the bottom for rot. Check the hinges, If they are lose then you may need to remove the hinge bracket and repair the wood. Small dents can be repaired with wood filler. Larger damage may require that you cut in a new piece of wood. Auto body filler is also a good product for repairing rot. Filler with Fiberglass fibers will add toughness. Once you have repaired the structure of the door you can begin sanding. Start with a 220 grit sand paper and feather all paint to an even surface. Remove the dust with a dry towel, brush and vacuum cleaner. Begin by painting the deepest portion of any raised panel inserts Wipe away any drips then work on the center of the panels and the rails and styles If you are painting many doors you may want to setup a production line you can use a roller that has been washed to remove any lose fibers to apply paint to the door then follow up with a lightly loaded brush to give the wood a finished look. It is important to cover all of the edges of the door with paint so that moisture won't enter the door and cause it to warp and swell. High humidity in the summer months will cause doors to stick on their jams. Now we haven't covered painting around glass in doors. If you have a door with glass you have 2 options either you can mask the glass off or you can paint and cleanup later. New doors will come with a plastic protective covering on the glass that you can leave in place then remove after painting. But on older doors the easiest method is to use a small half inch brush to paint the mutton dividers and expect that a small amount will get on the glass. Allow the paint to dry and come back with a sharp razor blade held at an angle to the glass and scrape away the paint. It is also good practice to have a little bit of paint cover the gap between the glass and the wood or caulking. This way you get a good seal. You don't want too much paint on the glass about a 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch is more then enough. To findout about paint choices check our other howtos but it is best practice to paint your doors with a gloss paint to improve wear. And Exterior doors will require exterior paint. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have
[BlindHandyMan] Digital Television Enhanced for Visually Impaired
Nearly four million Americans suffer from vision loss from diseases--such as macular degeneration--that impede their central vision and their ability to comfortably view the images on any television, cutting them off from a significant source of information and entertainment enjoyed by the mainstream. Often such patients cannot see faces of characters or other details that make a broadcast understandable. Some solutions have been special telescopic glasses, which can help patients see details but often cut off parts of the image, lessening context, and large television screens, which can be quite costly. The new method--developed by Dr. Eli Peli, the Institute's low vision expert, the Moakley Scholar in Aging Eye Research, and a professor of ophthalmology at Harvard Medical School, is the latest of several image-enhancing innovations his research team has created to improve TV watching for the visually impaired. It is also the first developed for digital television images. We knew it was time to address the changing technology, says Peli, who pointed out that digital television will replace traditional television technology over the next few years due to government mandate. Working within the decoder that makes digital television images possible, Peli and his colleagues were able to make a simple change that could give every digital TV the contrast enhancing potential for the benefit of the visually impaired. The same modification could easily be made to new HDTVs, and digital cable set top boxes, says Matthew Fullerton, the paper's first author, and a student of electronic engineering from the University of York in England who is currently working on his Master's degree in Peli's lab. To test their new technology, the team presented eight digital videos to 24 subjects with vision impairment and six with normal vision. Each patient was given a remote control, which allowed him/her to increase or decrease the contrast of the image. Patients manipulated over-enhanced and blurry images for the greatest clarity. The research team learned that even subjects with normal sight selected some enhancement and that the amount of enhancement selected by those with visual problems varied depending upon the level of contrast sensitivity loss they experienced due to their disease. All this demonstrated to the team that the device was both usable and useful to the subjects, even those without vision problems. Peli is now working with Analog Devices Inc. to create a prototype chip that could be included in all future generations of digital television. The technology we created is quite simple and can easily and cheaply be incorporated into even the newest technologies for television and internet video. Peli adds that he believes that as the population ages, this technology will be used by more and more of those whose eyes are going through a normal change as they get older as well as those more severely impaired. To see examples of how images are enhanced go to http://www.eri.harvard.edu/faculty/peli/lab/videos/mpeg/ This research was published in the edition of the Journal of the Optical Society of America published online in November 2007 and issued in print in January 2008. Other members of the research team include Russell L. Woods, and Fuensanta A. Vera-Diaz of Schepens Eye Research Institute. Adapted from materials provided by Schepens Eye Research Institute, via EurekAlert!, ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] TRAILER TIRES
TRAILER TIRES Trailer Tire requirements differ greatly from automotive tires. Automotive tires must maintain traction during all driving conditions: pulling, stopping, turning, or swerving. Because of this they must have more flexible sidewalls to maintain tread to road contact. Since trailers have no driving torque applied to their axles, the only time trailer tires must have traction is during the application of trailer brakes. Trailers with heavy loads, high vertical sideloads (like camper trailers), or trailers with inadequate tongue weight can be affected by trailer sway problems. Automotive bias or radial tires with their more flexible sidewalls can accentuate trailer sway problems, whereas the stiffer sidewalls of the ST (special trailer) bias ply tires help to control and reduce sway problems. For this reason it is not recommended that (P) Passenger or (LT) Light Truck tires be used on trailers. Best trailer control will be achieved with (ST) Special Trailer tires. TYPES OF TIRE CONSTRUCTION A.) Bias Ply Bias Ply - Poly or Nylon cords crisscross the tire from bead to bead with the same number of ply at both tread and sidewalls, providing stiffer sidewalls and more resistance to sway. B.) Bias Belted - Bias BeltedStandard Bias Ply crisscross, bead to bead construction, but with additional belts under the tread. C.) Radial - Radial Radial Plies run at right angles straight across the tire from bead to bead with belts (usually steel wire) under the tread. This provides excellent traction holding tread to road during swerving or turning. These are very important features for controlling a car or truck, but the flexible sidewalls of this type of tire may aggravate trailer sway problems when this type of tire is installed on a trailer. TIRE SIZE IDENTIFICATION A.) Originally American tires were provided with numeric sizing (480x12, 600x13, etc.) This gave the section width (the widest point of the tire) and the diameter of the rim. Some smaller trailer tires today still retain that numeric identification (480x8, 570x8, 480x12, 570x12, etc.) Table with 2 columns and 3 rows NUMERIC 570X8 570 8 SECTION WIDTH RIM DIAMETER table end B.)Then in the 1960's tire manufacturers and D.O.T. changed most tires to alpha numeric identification to provide more information (B7813C, F7814C, H7815D, etc.) Table with 4 columns and 3 rows ALPHA NUMERIC F7814C F 78 14 C Air Chamber Size Aspect Ratio = Section Height Section Width Rim Diameter: 13, 14, 15, etc. Load Range: A, B, C, D, and E, etc. table end C.) Finally in the late 1970's and early 1980's, D.O.T. and domestic tire manufacturers converted the majority of tire production to the metric system again providing more information about the tire. Table with 5 columns and 3 rows METRIC ST20575D14 ST 205 75 D 14 Application Type ST- Special Trailer LT-Lite Truck P-Passenger Section Width: 205 mm 215 mm 225 mm, etc. Aspect Ratio = Section Height Section Width (70, 75, 80, etc.) Construction Type: D - Bias Ply R - Radial B - Bias Belted Rim Diameter: 13 14 15, etc. table end Aspect Ratio ASPECT RATIO = SECTION HEIGHT SECTION WIDTH For trailer application, it is essential that you select the correct tires to match your application and capacity requirements. (ST) Special Trailer tires are normally more expensive than (P) Passenger car or (LT) Light Truck tires because they are built tougher with more material and are more bruise resistant. This is necessary because most trailer suspension systems are stiffer and less sophisticated than automotive suspension systems. Consequently the tires must be capable of withstanding more ABUSE. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Standard Specification for Seamless Copper Tube for Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Field Service - ACR
Seamless copper tube according ASTM 280 is intended for use in the connection, repairs, or alternations of air conditioning or refrigeration units in the field. Table with 6 columns and 20 rows Nominal Size (inches) Annealed (A) or Drawn Temper (D) Outside Diameter (inches) Inside Diameter (inches) Wall Thickness (inches) Cross Sectional Area of Bore (square inches) 1/8 A 0.125 0.065 0.030 0.0033 3/16 A 0.187 0.128 0.030 0.0129 1/4 A 0.250 0.190 0.030 0.0284 5/16 A 0.312 0.248 0.032 0.0483 3/8 A 0.375 0.311 0.032 0.076 D 0.375 0.315 0.030 0.078 1/2 A 0.500 0.436 0.032 0.149 D 0.500 0.430 0.035 0.145 5/8 A 0.625 0.555 0.035 0.242 D 0.625 0.545 0.040 0.233 3/4 A 0.750 0.680 0.035 0.363 A 0.750 0.666 0.042 0.348 D 0.750 0.666 0.042 0.348 7/8 A 0.875 0.785 0.045 0.484 D 0.875 0.785 0.045 0.484 1 1/8 A 1.125 1.025 0.050 0.825 D 1.125 1.025 0.050 0.825 1 3/8 A 1.375 1.265 0.055 1.26 D 1.375 1.265 0.055 1.26 List of 2 items * drawn temper - also called hard or rigid * annealed temper - also called soft or flexible ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Snakes, Alive
Hi Dale Yes they are one mean snake but my Son seen what was happening just in time and he told the Dog No, and it backed off. It crawled back into the garden and we had to get a garden rake to get it out where we could bring the shovel down on it's head. Luckily it was only a small one but the King Brown one's will attack you and are really best left alone. The cattle dog we had before this one used to bite red bellied black snakes in half and do so twice without being bitten. The dog we have now is a Jack Russel and already this year has killed 4 Blue Tongue Lizards. We do not like it doing so but when it finds them it just rips them up. What was frightening is I just walked through the door and the snake must have been there in the garden at the time. Treading carefully . Regards Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Thursday, 17 January 2008 10:16 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Snakes, Alive Ray, Seems to me I have seen or read that brown snakes are just about as poisonous as they get. Do they rattle? Why wouldn't it strike your dog? Aren't the blind highly disadvantaged where such threats lurk? Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:DLeavens%40puc.net Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Boyce, Ray To: blindhandyman@YahooGroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40YahooGroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 3:51 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Snakes, Alive Hi All Well we had to Kill our first snake of the Summer yesterday , a brown snake this time. It brought to my attention that I need a sharpened long handled shovel so a separation of it's head can occur. I just walked into the office door at home and the next thing the dog had it bailed up against the door I just walked through. Summer in Australia is great fun, anyone want to visit. Regards Ray ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Hitachi D10VH Corded Power Drill Review There is little doubt that I am quite fond of cordless drills. They can go anywhere, most models these days have plenty of power, and they are versatile. But they are still reliant in part on mains power supply to recharge the batteries, and sometimes, a corded drill makes a better option, particularly if you are working where a source of mains power is readily acceptable. I have several corded power drills, and most are larger models I use for heavier drilling or masonry work. After my el-cheapo Chinese brand corded drill died not long ago, I decided I needed a replacement for when I am using portable drills in the workshop (particularly for pocket hole drilling and for pilot holes in mechanical joinery etc. I decided to buy a Hitachi model. Not for any particular reason, and I don't really own any other Hitachi brand tools at present so I thought I would give the brand a try, and at the same time, review this particular model for you guys to see if it is worth grabbing one for your own woodshop! When I looked at the models available, I was after just a basic, smaller, lightweight drill that wouldn't be cumbersome to carry around the shop or heavy to use for continuous workshop drilling use. I also didn't want to pay through the roof for one as funds are not unlimited here, but I decided to go for a mid-priced, basic corded drill and try my luck. The Hitachi D-10VH seemed to tick all the appropriate boxes for my needs, and the feedback on Amazon seemed quite positive from other owners, so I took the plunge. It has since been used in my workshop fairly regularly for the past 3 months. The Hitachi D10VH The first thing that grabbed my attention on the D10VH's description was that it came with a 5-Year home use warranty. Yep, you read right, 5 years. How many tools offer a 5 year warranty period these days? Fair enough, its for home use only, but since my workshop is at home and I don't really undertake woodwork as a commercial business, this was no problem, and a welcome bonus. Usually the warranty period also gives some kind of indication as to how long the manufacturer will think the tool will last. You wont find 5 year warranties on inferior tools because the company would soon go broke replacing or repairing their product if they are likely to die within 1 or 2 years! So here's hoping the 5 year period means I have bought a decent drill with quality components! Ok let's look at the drill itself now. The drill features a 680W 6 Amp (120v) motor which offers a top rotational speed of 2500 RPM. 680W seems more than enough to handle most of my workshop drilling tasks. Because I ensure all my drill bits are kept very sharp, the power requirement of the drill is minimized as the drill bit is cutting very rapidly and without requiring as much power or torque from the drill. Needless to say, with sharp bits I was easily able to drill through wood and metals up to and slightly beyond the described cutting capacity of the drill. These capacities are listed as: Steel: 3/8 (10mm) bit diameter - twist drill bit Wood: 1 (25mm) bit diameter - twist/spade bit Wood: 5/8 (16mm) bit diameter - auger bit The D10VH does not have a hammer drilling action, so it is not really suitable for masonry work. Although it can be done, it may be a little underpowered. Stick to wood and metals to help preserve drill life. The 3/8 (10mm) chuck on the unit I purchased is a keyless variety, meaning no chuck key is required to tighten or release drill bits. Drill bits can be added or removed much faster with the chuck, as it required only your hands as the tool. Some may argue that keyless chucks do not grip the bit as well as keyed chucks, and they are probably right, however, the jaws of a quality keyless chuck are engineered well enough to provide an excellent grip on the bit. I have had no trouble with bits slipping in the chuck jaws if it is properly tightened. Again, sharp drill bits will help reduce slippage in the chuck. You can purchase a version of this drill that does come with a keyed chuck if you wish, although these seem a little harder to find. Of course, the other option is to replace the keyless chuck with a compatible keyed chuck if you wish. But I see no need. The keyless chuck works just fine. There appears to be very little run-out on the drill chuck as well. Most bits spin quite true. The drill is quite compact in size (overall length of just 9 3/8 - 238mm), and it's very light, weighing in at just 3.1lbs (1.4kg). The light weight goes a long way in reducing user fatigue over extended drilling periods. I was able to drill a ton of pocket holes using the drill over the course of an hour or so without my arms and wrists cursing me for hours after. It may not seem to be such a big factor on paper, but in practice, the ergonomics of a tool can make the difference between a good experience, and a bad one. The tool is somewhat meant for single handed use, which is why its
[BlindHandyMan] Compressed Air on A Tool Belt
Compressed Air on a Tool Belt something new in the world of pneumatic tools. Lowe's and Rhino Power have teamed up to offer a portable new Kobalt CO2 Regulator. The Regulator is compact and lightweight, and equipped with a standard universal connector to power most pneumatic tools-brad nailers, staplers, roofing guns, inflators, caulking guns, etc. It comes with a 10-foot extendible air hose and CO2 tank. The tank and regulator, which have a combined weight of less than 5 pounds, are designed to clip to your tool belt; just hook the pneumatic tool to the connector and go to work. According to Lowe's, carbon dioxide is nearly 500-percent more efficient than traditional air compressors. The company estimates that a full 9-ounce CO2 tank will yield 675 shots with a brad gun, 338 with a brad/stapler and 270 with a caulking gun. And unlike battery power, CO2 will provide full power right to the last shot. The Kobalt Portable Compressed CO2 Regulator will soon be available exclusively at Lowe's at a retail price of $99. A spare 9-ounce Rhino Power CO2 tank has an MSRP of $23.97, or you can exchange an emtpy tank for a full one at Lowe's, which costs only $5.97. Twenty-ounce tanks are also available. http://ww2.bluerhino.com/eprise/main/RhinoPower/AirTools/index.html ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] REMOVING PAINT OR VARNISH WITH CHEMICALS
* Many home repair jobs require you to remove a coat of old paint or varnish before applying new finish. * You can remove old paint or varnish using one of three different methods. The first involves using a chemical paint or varnish remover to soften the painted surface. Then, the old paint can be scraped off or washed away with water. * Paint can also be sanded away or removed with heat. In most cases, chemical paint removers are the easiest and fastest means for removing old paint or varnish. * Chemical paint and varnish removers are available in a variety of semi-paste and liquid forms. Almost all chemical removers are referred to as paint removers or paint strippers. * There are several basic types of paint removers. * Liquids are primarily for clean coatings and removing one or two layers of paint. This formula dries too quickly to remove multiple layers of paint. Good for detail areas or irregular surfaces. Also good for the stubborn spots after a washable has been used. * Brushables are a thick, paste-like formula that allows the paint remover to be applied in heavy layers so that it stays wet in order to strip multiple layers (up to 10 or more) in one application. Allows remover to cling to vertical or even overhead surfaces. Some paint removers are the wash away or water wash types. These terms simply indicate that the paint remover formula includes an emulsifier that permits the chemicals to mix with water and be rinsed away with a hose. * Use care when using this type of remover on fine furniture. Too much water can cause damage to the grain in the wood. * Read the labels on all paint remover cans and follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. * When removing paint, pour part of the paint remover into a small, wide mouth metal can (Fig. 1). A can with a plastic resealable lid works especially well. * Using a good quality brush, spread the remover thickly and evenly over the surface. Brush in one direction (Fig.2 ) Try not to brush over areas that are already covered with paint remover. * Sprayables are for easy application. Some removers come with a spray bottle or sprayer. These removers are thin enough to spray yet thick enought to cling. Most of these removers are water washable. * Aerosols are the most convenient and fastest way to apply paint remover. These removers are sprayed on and create a foamy, clinging layer thick enough to remove several layers of paint. If needed, reapplication is much easier, too! These removers are perfect for smaller jobs and detail work where brush application is difficult. Aerosol paint removers are available almost everywhere conventional removers are sold. * Some newer removers contain chemicals that are more environmentally friendly. These removers generally work slower than more conventional types, but some allow use indoors with good ventilation. These are more expensive, but for people who are sensitive toward harsh chemicals, may offer an excellent choice. * In addition, several types of specialty removers are sold to remove certain coatings or using on a specific surface, These include stain removers for surfaces such as fiberglass. * After scraping, use a suitable solvent such as ethanol or mineral spirits (or water if a water washable paint remover was used.) * For difficult to remove coatings, removal can be speeded up by scratching the coating with coarse sandpaper, but be careful not to deeply scratch the underlying surface. Then apply the remover and cover with plastic film to keep the remover wet. * Check the label of the paint remover to see how long you should leave the remover on the surface, usually about 20 to 30 minutes. Test the condition of the surface by rubbing the blade of a chemical-resistant scraper in a circular motion to see if the paint has been loosened (Fig. 3). * If the scraper cuts through to the surface of the wood, the paint remover has done its job. Always wear chemical-resistant gloves and work in a well-ventilated area. * Apply paint remover to a manageable area. Only cover an area that allows you to scrape or wash away the paint remover before it dries. * Lay the paint remover on thick, and do not stir it after applying it to the surface. Give the chemicals time to act. * To help keep the area clean and make clean-up easier, use a cardboard box with a heavy layer of newspaper to catch the paint and remover. * When the paint remover has done its job and the surface is softened (Fig. 3), you are ready to remove the loose paint. It is usually best to remove as much remover and paint as possible the first time. A scraper works well for this (Fig. 4). * Follow this with a medium grade of steel wool, old rags or an abrasive scouring pad (Fig. 5). * For hard-to-remove spots, you may need to apply a second coat of paint remover. Wetting the steel wool with paint remover will also work in some cases. * After cleaning and allowing to dry, most surfaces will need to be lightly sanded to
[BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
Triton T8SH Wetstone Sharpener Review Sharpening woodworking tools to a mirror finish, ultra-sharp cutting edge has always been a challenge for the majority of beginning and even intermediate woodworkers, and it generally is not until you see and use a mirror-finish, ultra sharp blade that you realize the difference between a tool that is simply termed sharp, and one that actually IS sharp. Simply grinding a bevel on a tool using your regular dry bench mounted grinder will not give you a truly sharp edge. Likewise, using even a 400 or 800 grit sharpening stone will give you a cutting edge, but it could be so much sharper with further work. The problem is that, up until now, the arsenal of sharpening tools and devices you needed to get a truly sharp edge has cost a small fortune. Sure, there have been cheaper methods like the scary sharp method which uses sandpaper, some glass to mount it on and a fair bit of time, but for the beginning woodworker who may not be clued up on manual sharpening, even that method could seem daunting. There has been for many years a device that has offered woodworkers an easier way to sharpen tools - the wet grinder. Its ability to sharpen tools with virtually no chance of overheating an edge and drawing the temper (weakening the material making it almost useless) is appealing to many. The one particular wet grinding system that has been considered the top of the class for workshop tool sharpening is the Tormek system. Unfortunately, it is rather expensive and not affordable to many woodworkers, particularly those who undertake woodworking on a hobby basis. In more recent years, the Scheppach line of wet grinders has competed with the Tormeks, and at reduced cost. But now a new line of wet grinder is available from Triton (and a similar one from Scheppach) that brings the setup costs down to just a few hundred dollars (as opposed to more than three times this with the Tormek). These low-priced Chinese-made wet grinders may not be European quality, but can they work just as well? We grabbed a Triton T8SH to see if a Chinese made wet grinder could deliver a truly sharp edge with a mirror finish, and most importantly, could slice wood like there was no tomorrow, and be able to be used by a beginner relatively easily with little learning curve. Let's see if the Triton can put some ticks to those issues. The Triton T8SH Wetstone Sharpener On first inspection of the tool, you can see it somewhat resembles that of a Tormek wet grinder. It has a similar large grinding wheel on one side, a leather honing wheel on the other, and a similar looking tool rest. But let's start by looking at the motor... The T8SH features a 120W induction motor. This sounds like quite a small powered motor, but the tool doesn't really require anything larger. The motor spins the wheel at the relatively slow speed of 120 RPM. When you think about a normal high speed dry grinder spinning at over 3000 RPM, 120 RPM seems turtle paced. But, just like the fairy tale, slow and steady wins the race, and this is the idea behind wet grinders. You won't be winning speed records for sharpening a tool on these units, but in the end, you will probably have a far superior cutting edge than one that has just come off a high speed grinder. Cooling fins on the motor casing will help dissipate heat and ensure the motor will not overheat, but there seems little chance of this as I was able to easily touch the motor after use and it didn't feel hot at all. Slightly warm, but that's about it. The controls are child's play with a simple standard green ON and red OFF button. I hope I don't need to explain what they do! However, note that because the aluminum oxide wheel and leather buffing wheel are mounted on the same shaft, both will spin when power is applied, so ensure both wheels are clear of obstacles and that you are not touching or holding either before you power on the grinder. The grinder casing is pressed metal and rather strong. You wont have any trouble with bending or denting it, unless it happens to fall off your worktable or stand you have it sitting on. But rubber feet on all four corners will ensure it won't slide around, even when in use under load. It will tilt or lift before it slides, and if you are tilting or lifting the tool by applying pressure to the wheel via the bevel grinding edge, you are putting too much force on it to start with. The jig guide bar allows you to use a variety of sharpening jigs and a basic straight-edge grinding jig is included in the kit which will allow you to sharpen straight edge tools like chisels and plane blades etc. At time of writing, no other jigs are available from Triton, however, because the guide bar is exactly the same diameter as both the Tormek and Scheppach machines, you can use any of the jigs made for those brands on the Triton unit. With additional jigs, you will be able to sharpen items like scissors, garden tools, woodturning tools (gouges etc),
[BlindHandyMan] From science fiction to science fact,
From science fiction to science fact, the pairing of man and machine has always been at the forefront of our fears of what the technological future might have in store. But it has also been the basis of many of our conceptions for dealing with the challenges of the future: efficient multi-medial communications, improved ecologically friendly transport and revolutionary medical applications. After all, for every space villain there is a light sabre ready to be used to chop his head off. Today's instances of the association between man and technology are perhaps not as impressive to the jaded cinemagoer, but just as ambitious for the impact they could have on our daily lives. The focus, though, is perhaps not so much on assimilation as it is on integration and usability European researchers have been carrying out wide-ranging testing of new wearable technology with applications in a variety of fields and with the potential of protecting and even saving lives. The vital innovation is that the technology facilitates a new form of human-computer interaction comprising small, easily accessible body-worn computers that are always on and always responsive. If you have a desktop application, then there is always a screen, a keyboard and a computer unit, but if you have a wearable computing solution, then it can be completely different, says Michael Lawo, technical manager of the [EMAIL PROTECTED] project. You can have speech control in one instance, gesture control in another, though the application should always be the same, he says. The Open Wearable Computing Framework being developed essentially comprises a central, easily wearable and hardware-independent computing unit which gives access to an ICT environment. Some of the basic components include wireless communication, positioning systems, speech recognition, interface devices, and low-level software platforms or toolboxes allowing these features to work together. New paradigm The pattern of this EU-funded project is woven as much out of applications as it is technology. It uses a number of commercial, off-the-shelf components and brings them together to create a new tool with the potential to revolutionise the way we work. Wearable computing is a completely new working paradigm, says Lawo. It is a technology which can support you in a particular environment. Instead of working at the computer, you are directly supported by the technology, a bit like when you are driving a car and you get information from the navigation system supporting you in your primary tasks. [EMAIL PROTECTED], the largest civilian wearable computing effort worldwide, is currently being tested in four different fields. These include aircraft maintenance, emergency response, car production and healthcare. Pilot projects in the areas of bush-fire prevention, e-inclusion and cultural heritage have also recently been launched. In most cases, the technology is being applied to people who are not accustomed to using computers at the workplace, such as blue-collar workers. The basic idea was to make the technology available to the workers and directly improve productivity, says Lawo. We address fields where there are no similar applications today. Take the example of an aircraft technician. There is a person doing paperwork who has to find the relevant documentation on a computer. He has to find the aircraft maintenance manual and the parts manual, and produce a printout. These documents are handed over to the technician who then goes to the aircraft to do his work. He then has to write a report on a sheet of paper. And that is the way things work today. What we are doing is giving the worker support and direct access to the ICT system from the workplace. We get rid of the paper. Working with fire With a considerable number of applications potentially possible, perhaps the most challenging test case for the project is the one involving emergency response teams, in collaboration with the Paris Fire Brigade. The technology helps support the communication, collaboration and information processes of rescue forces. The efficiency and safety of firemen can be considerably improved by a number of light, easy-to-use and resistant devices, such as biosensors monitoring their physiological condition and improved localisation of hazards, personnel and retreat paths. The technology has largely been well received by workers. They recognise that this is a new technology where you can monitor working activities, but they do not hesitate to use it, and they see the advantage of it, says Lawo. Difficulties might nonetheless emerge in the future. As soon as you come to the actual introduction of the technology and start negotiating with the unions, privacy will undoubtedly be an issue, says Lawo. [EMAIL PROTECTED] already has some 42 partners, including IT giants Microsoft, Hewlett-Packard and Siemens, but Lawo says the project is always on the lookout for new ventures. Research will continue
[BlindHandyMan] US Tap and Drill Bit Size Table
Tap Fractional Drill Bit Number Drill Bit Letter Drill Bit 0-80 3/64 - - 1-64 - 53 - 2-56 - 50 - 3-48 - 47 - 4-40 3/32 43 - 5-40 - 38 - 6-32 7/64 35 - 8-32 - 29 - 10-24 5/32 25 - 10-32 5/32 21 - 12-24 11/64 16 - 1/4-20 13/64 7 - 1/4-28 7/32 3 - 5/16-18 17/64 - F 5/16-24 - - I 3/8-16 5/16 - - 3/8-24 21/64 - Q 7/16-14 23/64 - U 7/16-20 25/64 - - 1/2-13 27/64 - - 1/2-20 29/64 - - 9/16-12 31/64 - - 9/16-18 33/64 - - 5/8-11 17/32 - - 5/8-18 37/64 - - 3/4-10 21/32 - - 3/4-16 11/16 - - Drill sizes are for 75% depth of thread. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] How to Antique Brass
We will describe two alternative approaches to antiquing brass. Both are straight forward but the results are quite different. Acid Dripping This method involves dipping clean and unlacquered brass in a proprietary antiquing solution. These solutions are a dilute mixture of acids, copper sulphate and sometimes additional chemicals to improve color consistancy and resistance to contamination. The process is substantially the same regardless of which brand of solution is chosen. You should be sure you are dealing with solid brass as neither brass plated steel or zinc will antique predictably. The first and most important task is to thoroughly clean the brass. If the item is lacquered this coating must be removed either chemically with acetone or paint stripper or mechanically with abrasives. Modern lacquers are becoming extremely durable and the task of their removal can be the hardest part of the job. I recent years it has become easier to buy hardware in a polished but unlacquered finish, if possible you should buy this finish (usually classified as US3A, MB3A or PBA). Wear rubber household gloves and work in a well ventilated area during the whole of the following procedure. Prepare a dilute solution of one part antiquing solution to 10 parts room temperature water in a ceramic or plastic bowl large enough to accommodate your items. Submerge the items in the solution and agitate to remove air bubbles that would otherwise result as bright spots on the metal. You will notice the color develop in a matter of moments, at first a coppery pink that darkens through red brown and eventually a brown black. If you expect to highlight your finish you should let the darkening progress past the tone you ultimately want. If you prefer an even tone remove the item when it appears the right color. Rinse the item under hot water and clean off the powdery residue with a sponge or a scotch-brite pad for an immediate highlighted effect. If the color is still too light simply return to the antiquing solution. If it is too dark then a scotch-brite pad will quickly take you back to clean metal and you can try again. If you are satisfied with the color then dry the item quickly and evenly, avoid leaving wet spots as these will invariably turn darker when dry. The antiqued metal can be left as is, lacquered or waxed. If left unprotected it will continue to age, lacquering or waxing will help preserve the finish. It is possible to turn brass to a graphite like black following the process outlined above, but you will usually need to dip the item at least twice and clean the residue off the surface between dipping. If you try to reach black in a single dipping the color will wipe off. Ammonia Fuming When brass is exposed to an atmosphere of ammonia vapor it develops a green brown oxide finish. This oxide layer is as close as you can come to a natural patina. The following instructions will allow you to patina smaller items with relative ease, the same principals can be adapted for larger pieces. You will need a plastic container with a tight lid. We use the white buckets sometimes called Pickle buckets that can easily be obtained from hardware stores, breweries and many other sources, any other well sealed plastic container will work. Cut a piece of plywood to make a shelf that will sit a few inches off the bottom. This shelf can sit on three blocks of wood to ensure it remains level. Pour a cup of full strength or Clear Ammonia into the bottom of the bucket, place the items for antiquing on the plywood and snap the lid in place. Full strength ammonia can be obtained from architecture offices or print shops with blueline facilities, Clear Ammonia from the grocery store. It is an extremely unpleasant fluid and should only be handled by competent adults in well ventilated areas or outside. Depending on the temperature, humidity and freshness of your ammonia the antiquing will take minutes or hours so take the occasional look to see how it is progressing. The color will darken a little and inclusions of verdi-gris will form when the items are removed from the container. You can either leave the finish as is or wax it for a burnished effect. If you are seriously attempting to fool anyone as to the age of the hardware and furniture you will need to mount the antiqued fitting, then wax and polish it in place. If done with some general understanding of the effects of care and aging on actual antiques the results can be very convincing. Because the ammonia evaporates fairly quickly leaving only water you will need to replenish or replace it every so often. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete
[BlindHandyMan] New Nanowire Battery Holds 10 Times The Charge Of Existing Ones
The new version, developed through research led by Yi Cui, assistant professor of materials science and engineering, produces 10 times the amount of electricity of existing lithium-ion, known as Li-ion, batteries. A laptop that now runs on battery for two hours could operate for 20 hours, a boon to ocean-hopping business travelers. It's not a small improvement, Cui said. It's a revolutionary development. The greatly expanded storage capacity could make Li-ion batteries attractive to electric car manufacturers. Cui suggested that they could also be used in homes or offices to store electricity generated by rooftop solar panels. Given the mature infrastructure behind silicon, this new technology can be pushed to real life quickly, Cui said. The electrical storage capacity of a Li-ion battery is limited by how much lithium can be held in the battery's anode, which is typically made of carbon. Silicon has a much higher capacity than carbon, but also has a drawback. Silicon placed in a battery swells as it absorbs positively charged lithium atoms during charging, then shrinks during use (i.e., when playing your iPod) as the lithium is drawn out of the silicon. This expand/shrink cycle typically causes the silicon (often in the form of particles or a thin film) to pulverize, degrading the performance of the battery. Cui's battery gets around this problem with nanotechnology. The lithium is stored in a forest of tiny silicon nanowires, each with a diameter one-thousandth the thickness of a sheet of paper. The nanowires inflate four times their normal size as they soak up lithium. But, unlike other silicon shapes, they do not fracture. Research on silicon in batteries began three decades ago. Candace Chan, a graduate student of Cui, explained: The people kind of gave up on it because the capacity wasn't high enough and the cycle life wasn't good enough. And it was just because of the shape they were using. It was just too big, and they couldn't undergo the volume changes. Then, along came silicon nanowires. We just kind of put them together, Chan said. For their experiments, Chan grew the nanowires on a stainless steel substrate, providing an excellent electrical connection. It was a fantastic moment when Candace told me it was working, Cui said. Cui said that a patent application has been filed. He is considering formation of a company or an agreement with a battery manufacturer. Manufacturing the nanowire batteries would require one or two different steps, but the process can certainly be scaled up, he added. It's a well understood process. The breakthrough is described in detail in a paper, High-performance lithium battery anodes using silicon nanowires, published online Dec. 16 in Nature Nanotechnology, written by Cui, his graduate chemistry student Candace Chan and five others. Also contributing to the paper in Nature Nanotechnology were Halin Peng and Robert A. Huggins of Materials Science and Engineering at Stanford, Gao Liu of Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory, and Kevin McIlwrath and Xiao Feng Zhang of the electron microscope division of Hitachi High Technologies in Pleasanton, Calif. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] How to Lacquer Metals
Brass and other metals are easy to protect with a durable clear lacquer coating so long as care is taken in four critical areas, application, cleanliness, temperature and contamination. Cleanliness means no residue of older finishes, no greases and no dust. Acetone is a good general purpose cleaner/degreaser. You can lacquer over a polished or clean antique finish. Temperature should be around 65 degrees though some latitude is acceptable here, below 50 and above 90 will probably cause difficulties. The item to be lacquered should be at the same approximate temperature. Contamination of the freshly sprayed surface seems to be the hardest hurdle to overcome for most people. The lacquer we sell will set in just a few minutes to the point where dust will not become imbedded. It is vital to reduce exposure to dust for this brief period. Application of lacquer from a spray can is easily mastered after some basic concepts are understood. The goal is to cover the surface evenly with a coat of finish that flows together to form a film. If the spray can is held too far from the object insufficient finish will fall on the surface and the individual droplets of lacquer will not flow together. If the spray can is held too close to the object an over heavy coat will result and drips or sags will be the certain consequence. 8 inches is a suitable starting point. To coat an object evenly will invariably require more than one pass with the spray can. Each pass must be smooth and slightly overlap the previous one. Each pass must start off to one side and progress over the object and finish off the other side at which point you must release the spray head. Releasing the spray head is a vital habit that allows the valve to clear itself of lacquer build-up. I would recommend a maximum of 2 seconds per pass, preferably less. If possible you should hold the item in your hand and rotate it to provide access and good raked lighting to all sides without delay. If you have to set the item on a surface to spray it you must make absolutely sure the surface is dust free all around. The air pressure from the spray will stir up any dust and spread it evenly on your otherwise perfect finish. The crucial moments are those after the item is sprayed. If allowed to dry in peace your finish will probably be of professional standard. Unfortunately people are inclined to fuss over the finish at this point and as often as not ruin it. Any movement near the item stirs the air and with it the dust that we do not want in the finish, movement should be kept to a minimum. Anything done above the object will shower it with dust particles so well intentioned attempts to cover with boxes to keep dust off will in all likelihood achieve the opposite. The best plan is to immediately hang the item on a nail or hook so the most important face is held vertically or up side down and leave the room. Drips, unless very bad, should be ignored at this point, they will be far less obvious when the lacquer has dried. After investing this much effort it makes sense to handle the lacquered item with care. Do not for example let a lacquered knob roll around on a table top or throw it in a box with others unless you want to repeat the whole process. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Installing a Drop Leaf Table Hinge
Installing a Drop Leaf Table Hinge Drop leaf table hinge in the dropped position Drop leaf table hinge in the raised position Drop Leaf Rule Joint While at first glance the rule joint seems simple, the realities of this joint can be frustratingly troublesome. A first attempt will often result in a joint that scrapes and binds or leaves unsightly gaps. To get it right the first time requires both an understanding and application of the geometry at work. These days the majority of us will cut the rule joint profiles with a router. Though this tool can quickly produce a very accurate pair of matching cuts, it can just as easily cut a good looking but unworkable joint. Because different hinges will require different settings for your router, hinge selection must be your starting point. A rule joint hinge is specially manufactured with an extra wide leaf to span the joint. Because it is screwed into the underside of the table with the barrel facing up it is countersunk on the reverse side. Start by opening the hinge and laying it barrel upward on a flat surface. Accurately measure up from this surface to the center of the hinge pin. In the case of our standard drop leaf hinges this measurement will be 1/8 (Alternatively, and assuming the hinge is a traditional flat back style you can simply measure the hinge barrel and divide by two). When this hinge is mortised into the underside of the tabletop the center of rotation of the table leaf will be 1/8 up from the bottom. Most tabletops are built of 3/4 thick material and so it seems reasonable to select a 1/2 radius cutter for the joint. Many woodworkers cutting a rule joint for the first time will fail to take into account the center of rotation described above and will assume a 1/2 radius cutter will leave a 1/4 fillet in 3/4 stock. If a 1/2 radius cutter is set correctly, with the center of its described circle raised 1/8 above the underside of the table, the fillet will actually be only 1/8 not 1/4. An 1/8 fillet is a workable minimum because, while the fillet is cut into the tabletop, the table leaf must match its profile with perhaps 1/32 clearance. With a full 3/4 material thickness, that will leave an edge of 3/32 which should be regarded as the absolute minimum. If the tabletop is thinner due to planing or sanding, then a 1/2 radius cutter will be too large and must be abandoned in favor of a 7/16 or smaller pair of bits. After having established the center of rotation as defined by the hinge choice and having selected the cutter, you can run the profile on the table top. If you are using a 1/2 radius cutter you will need to set the base of your router to cut a fillet of a thickness that is the result of the following formula: Tabletop thickness (3/4) minus 1/2 hinge barrel diameter (1/8) minus cutter radius (1/2) With this profile cut you can run the mating profile in the table leaf. Ideally you would select a cutter with a 1/32 larger radius to provide a little clearance at the joint. Such cutters are not generally available, so in order to create the needed clearance, you will separate the leaves by this much when installing the hinges. The hinges can now be mortised. The first cut will be in the table top and will accommodate the hinge barrel. This is best cut with a ¼ straight cutter. The center of this cut should be a 1/64 outboard of a line drawn down from the vertical cut left by your radius cutter. With the table top upside down and with its leaf nesting in place but separated by 1/32, lay the hinge barrel in it's mortise and with a sharp knife scribe its outline. Finally route a mortise to set the hinge flush with the table underside and screw into place. Make sure the table leaf remains firmly in place during this operation. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Installing Butt Hinges
Installing Butt Hinges Traditional cabinet butt hinges are mortised into the edge of the door and cabinetwork. We sell these hinges either with or without decorative tips. The installation is the same for either type except in one detail. Decorative tip hinges are set further forward of the cabinetwork than are their untipped equivalents. The plain untipped butt hinge serves a function without drawing attention to itself. It should therefore be fitted so as to allow it to do its work while remaining unnoticed. The hinge mortise should be cut to a depth that leaves only the radiused barrel of the hinges and a hair extra forward of the cabinetwork. So long as the center of swing is not within the cabinetwork the hinge will function as intended. The tipped butt hinge must have the full diameter of its barrel forward of the cabinetwork. This allows the pin to be removed without interference. Regular butt hinge Tipped butt hinge For regular butt hinges set a marking gauge to a measurement taken from the edge of the hinge leaf to a point just short of the center of the hinge pin. Use this setting to scribe lines on the casework where you have chosen to place the hinge. Next measure accurately the hinge length and bring corresponding lines forward to the front of the casework with a square. A scalpel or other sharp knife is the best marking tool for this layout. Set a small router with a sharp 1/4 high speed steel straight cutter to a depth that equals the hinge barrel diameter minus desired door gap divided in half. Waste away the mortise and square up the corners with a sharp chisel. Set the door in place and shim it to create equal gaps. Mark lines on the door to match those on the casework. Use your marking gauge setting to mark the vertical lines. Set the door in a bench vise and route the mortises. The door can now be fitted. Use only one screw per hinge as this time. If the door closes properly then fit the remaining screws. Small adjustments to the depth of the mortises can go a long way to compensate for a slightly twisted door. The same technique will work for installation of a tipped hinge with the exception of the marking gauge setting. For a tipped hinge the gauge will be set to the inside width of the hinge leaf. Iron Butt Hinges One Mortise or Two? In recent years it has become common to see butt hinges mortised fully into either the door or the casework. This is a time saving technique that provides the installer some latitude for hinge adjustment. An English manufacturer of traditional kitchen cabinets has invested this dubious technique with undeserved respectability. Much of the long term durability of a correctly fitted door is a direct consequence of the mortises the hinges sits in. These mortises prevent the weight of the door from bearing on the woodscrews that hold the hinges in place. While a woodscrew is easily able resist the forces that try to pull it straight out it is not suited to resist significant sideways loads. The wood fibers around the screw will eventually crush and the screw will loosen. (The following is an exception to my general condemnation of the above technique.) Some doors are surrounded by a bead, either on the door itself or on the surrounding casework. It is difficult to resist the temptation to set the hinge into this bead. In this case you are obliged to cut the hinge either fully into the door or the casework. Some loss of principal is perhaps worth it in this case. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Installing a Tubular Skylight or Solar Tube
Tubular skylights fit in spaces too small for full-sized skylights. Great for baths, hallways and kitchens, a tubular skylight provides a lot of natural light with a minimum of space and effort. In the ceiling they look just like an overhead light fixture - but with no need for electricity. Some kits come with light diffusers. Tubular skylights are pre-assembled to various degrees to make installation easy. Due to their relatively small size, they work with any roof support type without the need for cutting and reinforcing joists. Installation is relatively simple, as long as you take the time to measure properly and plan the location. Roof Styles When shopping, make sure you get the proper mounting kit for your style of roof. Thicker roofs, such as wood shakes or clay tile, use a different type of flashing than regular asphalt shingles. Installation Always follow the manufacturer's specific instructions. The basic installation steps are: 1. Determine the location for the tubular light. The tube must have a clear path from the ceiling to the roof. The path does not have to be absolutely straight, the tube is flexible. The tube must also fit between rafters and between roof supports. 2. Check the attic above the location for joists, wiring or other obstructions to the tube. 3. Push a nail through the ceiling in the center of where the ceiling fixture/diffuser will be. 4. While in the attic, check plumb from the nail hole to where the roof hole will be. Dangle the plumb bob from the inside of the roof until it points directly to the nail hole. Mark the spot on the inside of the roof. Drill a hole or drive a nail up through the roof to mark the center of where the dome will be. OR Have a helper stand in the room below and shine a flashlight up through the nail hole. Mark the point of light on the inside of the roof. 5. Cut the ceiling hole. 6. Remove the roof shingles. Cut the roof hole using the template provided. 7. Attach flashing. To avoid leaks, when mounting the dome on the roof, always nail or screw exactly where the manufacturer specifies (and nowhere else). 8. Attach dome. 9. Insert tube and attach on roof and at the ceiling fixture as directed . 10. Install the ceiling fixture/diffuser inside. 11. Insulate as recommended by the manufacturer. Idea. Good Idea: The more direct the line of the tube and the shorter the tube, the more light you will receive. Light kits are available to allow you to use the tubular skylight as a regular electric overhead light. Install the kit according to the manufacturer's directions. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Installing Rods and Hardware
Hanging window treatments is one of the simplest décorating projects you can undertake. But the payoff from dressing up an ordinary window with a little color and texture can be startling. Perhaps the most challenging part of the job is choosing hardware of the appropriate size and style. That's why it is crucial to measure the window before buying materials. Curtains typically look best when they span just beyond the window casing. As for length, they can hang to the window sill or almost to the floor-or a point somewhere in between. Take your measurements to your Curtain Supplier they'll help you select from among a range of ready-made window treatments and make sure you go home with the suitable hardware. Steps to install Rods Whichever type or style of curtains and hardware you choose, installation generally follows the steps shown here. Brackets are mounted to the wall on each side of the window casing. The brackets (along with a center support) hold up a curtain rod, which in turn supports the curtains. For curtains that come with a valance, a valance rod completes the installation. Be sure to follow all the manufacturer's instructions. 1. Measure the window width. Measure the window width. Measuring the window width Although you can mount hardware right onto window casing, it's best to attach the brackets to the wall slightly outside and above the head casing. Measure the length of the head casing-including any rosettes -and add 2 to 5 to the measurement. This extra width will ensure that the edges of the curtains won't be visible from outside. When shopping for window-treatment hardware, make sure the type you buy is adjustable to your final measurement. 2. Measure the window height. Measure the window height. Measuring the window height To determine the length of curtains required, measure from the point where you want them to fall to the point where you plan to fasten the wall brackets-in this case, a few above the head casing. 3. Installing the wall brackets Hold one wall bracket in position-in this example, 2 outside and 4 above the head casing-and mark its screw holes. If there is a wall stud in line with the marks-use a stud finder to check-drill a hole for the screws supplied and attach the bracket. If there is no stud, drill a hole for the toggle bolts supplied and use them to fasten the bracket to the wall. With a carpenter's level, mark a level line across the wall from the top edge of the bracket to the other bracket location. Align the second bracket with the line and fasten it to the wall. 4. Installing the center support Hook the curtain rod onto the center support and snap the rod into place on the wall brackets. These wall brackets feature three fittings that enable you to hang the curtain rod at three different heights. Chose the height that best suits your décor. Use the tape measure to position the center support midway between the wall brackets. Then, mark the center support's fastener holes. Remove the curtain rod and secure the center support with the fasteners supplied. 5. Hanging the curtains Feed the curtains onto the curtain rod. Snap the rod into place on the wall brackets and center support. 6. Installing the valance rod With the curtains in place, snap the end brackets supplied into the wall brackets so that they project the same distance from the wall as the center support. Feed the fabric onto the valance rod following the manufacturer's instructions, then hook the valance rod on the center support and snap the rod into place on the end brackets. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Know Your Grains
Know Your Grains Even though arched patterns are hard to match, this look can be achieved through careful attention when selecting lumber. Notice the unmatched grain pattern on the left and how it compares to the visually appealing matched pattern on the right. Selecting lumber is a skill that is just as important as cutting it. Because no two boards are alike, each project you build will be one of a kind. On the other hand, when you want the individual boards in a piece to match in appearance, the unique character of wood can seem more obstacle than asset. Go With the Grain There are two fundamentals to help explain why boards look differently. The first is the distribution of the annual growth rings in the tree, and the second is the orientation of the board as it's sawn from the log. Together these two factors create the varying patterns that are commonly called grain, although a more accurate term used by woodworkers is figure. Alternating light and dark rings in a log mark each growing season, creating a specific pattern on the flat surface of a board once it has been cut. Dark rings-generally spaced far apart-form large, sweeping arches located near the center in a pattern known as cathedral figure. Vertical grain, toward the outer edges, shows up as straight lines closely spaced together. Mix and Match . Radiata pine is good lumber to start with because it has distinct growth rings and patterns. When picking out boards, first look for those with similar color, and then narrow your selections based on the grain patterns. Begin by holding two boards edge to edge; you will soon discover that matching straight linear patterns is easiest. Arched patterns are difficult to align-even with boards that are cut from the same log. You can incorporate both grains in your project, but it is easier to create seamless, nice-looking joints when linear figures are near the edges of the boards. It goes with out saying get some sighted help to pick your boards. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Metric Tap and Drill Bit Size Table
Metric Tap and Drill Bit Size Table Table with 3 columns and 18 rows Tap Metric Drill US Drill 3mm x 0.6 2.5mm - 4mm x 0.7 3.4mm - 5mm x 0.8 4.3mm - 6mm x 1.0 5.2mm - 7mm x 1.0 6.1mm 15/64 8mm x 1.25 6.9mm 17/64 8mm x 1.0 7.1mm - 10mm x 1.5 8.7mm - 10mm x 1.25 8.9mm 11/32 10mm x 1.0 9.1mm - 12mm x 1.75 10.5mm - 12mm x 1.5 10.7mm 27/64 14mm x 2.0 12.2mm - 14mm x 1.5 12.7mm - 16mm x 2.0 14.2mm 35/64 16mm x 1.5 14.7mm - Drill sizes are for 75% depth of thread. ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] US Sheet Metal Screw Diameter Table
US Sheet Metal Screw Diameter Table Table with 3 columns and 9 rows Size Thread Diameter Decimal Nearest Fractional 4 .11 7/64 6 .14 9/64 8 .17 11/64 10 .19 3/16 12 .22 7/32 14 .25 1/4 ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
