Re: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep
You can't get under the exhaust manifolds in that car. The only pressure wholes available are gotten to from under the car. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 5:43 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep If you're going to run an after market oil gauge you don't have to get under it. There are little plugs around the engine that will tap into the oil galleys. There is probably one near the filter, but there will be a few on top as well. To keep you out of trouble, an oil plug will be quite small. Unlike a water plug that has around a half inch square head and looks like a normal pipe plug. The ones for oil won't take much more than a quarter inch wrench to back out. The new gauge should come with a compression fitting, the ferrules and the plastic line to run the new gauge. If you want to pay a bit more, you can get the electronic version and still mount it from the top. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 11:37 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep Hey ROn, provided I don't have to mess with the oil sending unit, that would be great. If so, I'm going to have to take it somewhere with a lift. To get at it, you'd need to jack it up such that you could nearly stand under the thing. That sucker is up above the oil filter and in such a way that reaching it you might be able to feel the connector, but you sure aren't going to reach it and touch the unit itself and forget putting a tool on it. You can feel the connector, but you can't get your hands on it to remove it. Yep, a lift is in order for this job, unless I can get telescoping arms, which I've wanted for years. On Jun 4, 2009, at 11:19 AM, Ron Yearns wrote: > > > It has been a few years since I priced aftermarket gages, but it > seems like A pressure onlym, actually runs a small hose to read the > pressure direct was a little over $20. Plus my time and effort. > Ron > - Original Message - > From: Scott Howell > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 9:12 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep > > Thanks Ron and I guess it will come down to if I want to trade/sell > the thing or just keep it until something significant failes that is > more than X amount of its value. I haven't quite decided where that X > is, but if I used the insurance companies figures, anything that is > totaled to the point it would cost 70% of Blue Book value, it's > written off as a loss. Not so sure I'd be willing to go that far, but > seeing these retail at or around $9,000 or trade-in for perfect is > $5,200 give or take, I probably wouldn't put much more than $1,000 > into it unless I knew I would get a good number of years out of it. > HOwever, the cost of fuel is seeming to go back up and thus the value > will drop in relation to the fuel cost cause you can bet this old gal > ain't very efficient. > > On Jun 4, 2009, at 8:38 AM, Ron Yearns wrote: > > > > > > > First observation I would consider it could be the gage or the > > wiring either to the gage or from the gage to the sender unit. > > Probably the easiest in terms of time /expense is using a after > > market add on gage. Note this may require access to and replacement > > to the sender unit, but still less work than pulling the dash. > > Ron > > - Original Message - > > From: Scott Howell > > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 6:10 AM > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep > > > > I realize this isn't the Blind Mechanics list, but I imagine this > > would still be alright. > > Here is my problem and feel free to contact me off list if > > appropriate. I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, so this is > the > > model with the 4.7 V8. > > My problem is there seems to be a short somewhere in the circuit > that > > controls the oil pressure sensor. I recently had the oil pressure > > sending unit replaced by a local garage because I could not get at > it > > without a lift. So, the mechanic replaced the part I supplied and it > > has been fine for a couple of months. Suddenly the damn oil gage has > > been doing exactly the same thing it was initially in that it > drops to > > zero randomly sounding the alarm. I'm very certain after talking to > > the same mechanic that if it were the oil pump or barings failing, > > there would likely be other indications and considering we can go > > several miles before the gauge drops to zero, it is quite possible > > there is an issue with the connection or a short somewhere. So, > > chasing shorts could be a really ugly task and I'm just looking for > > any guidance on
Re: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep
Hello Scott, I have worked on many of those cars. It isn't that expensive to fix the problem, and the car is still worth keeping. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 9:37 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep Hey ROn, provided I don't have to mess with the oil sending unit, that would be great. If so, I'm going to have to take it somewhere with a lift. To get at it, you'd need to jack it up such that you could nearly stand under the thing. That sucker is up above the oil filter and in such a way that reaching it you might be able to feel the connector, but you sure aren't going to reach it and touch the unit itself and forget putting a tool on it. You can feel the connector, but you can't get your hands on it to remove it. Yep, a lift is in order for this job, unless I can get telescoping arms, which I've wanted for years. On Jun 4, 2009, at 11:19 AM, Ron Yearns wrote: > > > It has been a few years since I priced aftermarket gages, but it > seems like A pressure onlym, actually runs a small hose to read the > pressure direct was a little over $20. Plus my time and effort. > Ron > - Original Message - > From: Scott Howell > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 9:12 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep > > Thanks Ron and I guess it will come down to if I want to trade/sell > the thing or just keep it until something significant failes that is > more than X amount of its value. I haven't quite decided where that X > is, but if I used the insurance companies figures, anything that is > totaled to the point it would cost 70% of Blue Book value, it's > written off as a loss. Not so sure I'd be willing to go that far, but > seeing these retail at or around $9,000 or trade-in for perfect is > $5,200 give or take, I probably wouldn't put much more than $1,000 > into it unless I knew I would get a good number of years out of it. > HOwever, the cost of fuel is seeming to go back up and thus the value > will drop in relation to the fuel cost cause you can bet this old gal > ain't very efficient. > > On Jun 4, 2009, at 8:38 AM, Ron Yearns wrote: > > > > > > > First observation I would consider it could be the gage or the > > wiring either to the gage or from the gage to the sender unit. > > Probably the easiest in terms of time /expense is using a after > > market add on gage. Note this may require access to and replacement > > to the sender unit, but still less work than pulling the dash. > > Ron > > - Original Message - > > From: Scott Howell > > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 6:10 AM > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep > > > > I realize this isn't the Blind Mechanics list, but I imagine this > > would still be alright. > > Here is my problem and feel free to contact me off list if > > appropriate. I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, so this is > the > > model with the 4.7 V8. > > My problem is there seems to be a short somewhere in the circuit > that > > controls the oil pressure sensor. I recently had the oil pressure > > sending unit replaced by a local garage because I could not get at > it > > without a lift. So, the mechanic replaced the part I supplied and it > > has been fine for a couple of months. Suddenly the damn oil gage has > > been doing exactly the same thing it was initially in that it > drops to > > zero randomly sounding the alarm. I'm very certain after talking to > > the same mechanic that if it were the oil pump or barings failing, > > there would likely be other indications and considering we can go > > several miles before the gauge drops to zero, it is quite possible > > there is an issue with the connection or a short somewhere. So, > > chasing shorts could be a really ugly task and I'm just looking for > > any guidance on where I might be looking for possible issues. I > > imagine it could be the gauge itself, but man replacing that would > be > > a task I am not sure I'd want to take on. I have no idea how to > get to > > the gauges, which would involve pulling the dash apart and that > could > > be rather complicated and expensive. At this point I just want to do > > the least possible to fix the thing and then get rid of the vehicle. > > It seems to be more a pain these days and perhaps it is time to > > replace it. That or I'll just ignore the problem until something > > really brakes and then just donate the damned thing and buy > something > > new. As it is I don't think I'm going to get a dealer to agree it > > isn't a big deal and gee offer me top dollar on this beast. grin. > Any > > thoughts appreciated. > > > > tnx, > > > > [Non-te
Re: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep
Also check the connections inside the plug that connects to the sender. The sender moves around some as the engine is on rubber mounts. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 8:12 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep Thanks Ron and I guess it will come down to if I want to trade/sell the thing or just keep it until something significant failes that is more than X amount of its value. I haven't quite decided where that X is, but if I used the insurance companies figures, anything that is totaled to the point it would cost 70% of Blue Book value, it's written off as a loss. Not so sure I'd be willing to go that far, but seeing these retail at or around $9,000 or trade-in for perfect is $5,200 give or take, I probably wouldn't put much more than $1,000 into it unless I knew I would get a good number of years out of it. HOwever, the cost of fuel is seeming to go back up and thus the value will drop in relation to the fuel cost cause you can bet this old gal ain't very efficient. On Jun 4, 2009, at 8:38 AM, Ron Yearns wrote: > > > First observation I would consider it could be the gage or the > wiring either to the gage or from the gage to the sender unit. > Probably the easiest in terms of time /expense is using a after > market add on gage. Note this may require access to and replacement > to the sender unit, but still less work than pulling the dash. > Ron > - Original Message - > From: Scott Howell > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 6:10 AM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep > > I realize this isn't the Blind Mechanics list, but I imagine this > would still be alright. > Here is my problem and feel free to contact me off list if > appropriate. I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, so this is the > model with the 4.7 V8. > My problem is there seems to be a short somewhere in the circuit that > controls the oil pressure sensor. I recently had the oil pressure > sending unit replaced by a local garage because I could not get at it > without a lift. So, the mechanic replaced the part I supplied and it > has been fine for a couple of months. Suddenly the damn oil gage has > been doing exactly the same thing it was initially in that it drops to > zero randomly sounding the alarm. I'm very certain after talking to > the same mechanic that if it were the oil pump or barings failing, > there would likely be other indications and considering we can go > several miles before the gauge drops to zero, it is quite possible > there is an issue with the connection or a short somewhere. So, > chasing shorts could be a really ugly task and I'm just looking for > any guidance on where I might be looking for possible issues. I > imagine it could be the gauge itself, but man replacing that would be > a task I am not sure I'd want to take on. I have no idea how to get to > the gauges, which would involve pulling the dash apart and that could > be rather complicated and expensive. At this point I just want to do > the least possible to fix the thing and then get rid of the vehicle. > It seems to be more a pain these days and perhaps it is time to > replace it. That or I'll just ignore the problem until something > really brakes and then just donate the damned thing and buy something > new. As it is I don't think I'm going to get a dealer to agree it > isn't a big deal and gee offer me top dollar on this beast. grin. Any > thoughts appreciated. > > tnx, > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep
In a 2001 jeep, the computer needs to see the proper information from the gage or the car may not function correctly. - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 6:38 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep First observation I would consider it could be the gage or the wiring either to the gage or from the gage to the sender unit. Probably the easiest in terms of time /expense is using a after market add on gage. Note this may require access to and replacement to the sender unit, but still less work than pulling the dash. Ron - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 6:10 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep I realize this isn't the Blind Mechanics list, but I imagine this would still be alright. Here is my problem and feel free to contact me off list if appropriate. I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, so this is the model with the 4.7 V8. My problem is there seems to be a short somewhere in the circuit that controls the oil pressure sensor. I recently had the oil pressure sending unit replaced by a local garage because I could not get at it without a lift. So, the mechanic replaced the part I supplied and it has been fine for a couple of months. Suddenly the damn oil gage has been doing exactly the same thing it was initially in that it drops to zero randomly sounding the alarm. I'm very certain after talking to the same mechanic that if it were the oil pump or barings failing, there would likely be other indications and considering we can go several miles before the gauge drops to zero, it is quite possible there is an issue with the connection or a short somewhere. So, chasing shorts could be a really ugly task and I'm just looking for any guidance on where I might be looking for possible issues. I imagine it could be the gauge itself, but man replacing that would be a task I am not sure I'd want to take on. I have no idea how to get to the gauges, which would involve pulling the dash apart and that could be rather complicated and expensive. At this point I just want to do the least possible to fix the thing and then get rid of the vehicle. It seems to be more a pain these days and perhaps it is time to replace it. That or I'll just ignore the problem until something really brakes and then just donate the damned thing and buy something new. As it is I don't think I'm going to get a dealer to agree it isn't a big deal and gee offer me top dollar on this beast. grin. Any thoughts appreciated. tnx, [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep
Ok, First thing Where did you get the part. After being a professional mechanic for 40 years I have found that Dealer parts are usually the best. Second I would try disconnecting the plug from the sender and make sure that all of the contacts are clean and touching. Maybe wiggle the connection when the gage in the car works incorrectly. Third check your oil level. Also how many miles are on the car? Gerry leary - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 5:10 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] grounding issue in a Jeep I realize this isn't the Blind Mechanics list, but I imagine this would still be alright. Here is my problem and feel free to contact me off list if appropriate. I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, so this is the model with the 4.7 V8. My problem is there seems to be a short somewhere in the circuit that controls the oil pressure sensor. I recently had the oil pressure sending unit replaced by a local garage because I could not get at it without a lift. So, the mechanic replaced the part I supplied and it has been fine for a couple of months. Suddenly the damn oil gage has been doing exactly the same thing it was initially in that it drops to zero randomly sounding the alarm. I'm very certain after talking to the same mechanic that if it were the oil pump or barings failing, there would likely be other indications and considering we can go several miles before the gauge drops to zero, it is quite possible there is an issue with the connection or a short somewhere. So, chasing shorts could be a really ugly task and I'm just looking for any guidance on where I might be looking for possible issues. I imagine it could be the gauge itself, but man replacing that would be a task I am not sure I'd want to take on. I have no idea how to get to the gauges, which would involve pulling the dash apart and that could be rather complicated and expensive. At this point I just want to do the least possible to fix the thing and then get rid of the vehicle. It seems to be more a pain these days and perhaps it is time to replace it. That or I'll just ignore the problem until something really brakes and then just donate the damned thing and buy something new. As it is I don't think I'm going to get a dealer to agree it isn't a big deal and gee offer me top dollar on this beast. grin. Any thoughts appreciated. tnx, [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter
Hey that's a good idea. When I was a mechanic, I used those for all kinds of things. - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 6:09 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter No but I have used a makeshift one that was louder. I pulled the buzzer unit from under the dash of a 80's Chevy truck, hooked up two wires to it and used it as a continuity tester when I couldn't find mine. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 11:02 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter well, have you ever used a cont tester that was much quieter? Or to ask more directly, ever notice the volume level of others? I don't know what brand Science Products was using. Your statements are perfectly reasonable. Tough to describe, my cont circuit is like a quiet microwave, like the beep of changing bands on the C.Crane C.C.Radio, and I wish I could think of another item that is common. But thanks. Sounds like it would be enough. On Tue, 2 Jun 2009, NLG wrote: > Loud to me and loud to you or someone else may be totally different If I were checking continuity and had a radio on, at normal volume and not so loud that the people in the next county could hear it,, I would have no problems hearing it. I also can hear it while my air compressor is running, however if my telephone rings on the other side of the garage while my air compressor is running, I sometimes don't hear it. > > - Original Message - > From: Spiro > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 5:50 PM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter > > > > > > grrr, means I really have to get one. > How loud is the continuity tester? > I am currently using a 9 volt beeper from Rat Shack as the cont tester in > mine is far too quiet. > I like to listen to NPR or Newsweek tapes while working when it's not > baseball, hockey or football on the radio. > > On Tue, 2 Jun 2009, NLG wrote: > > > Yes. Three double A batteries power the unit. > > > > - Original Message - > > From: Spiro > > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 2:48 PM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter > > > > > > > > > > > > do they run on batteries? > > I have an expensive model from Science Products that is a standard meter > > with a speak unit affixed and I have to run it on an adaptor. I'm lucky > > it's not a "woodwork" item or I'd have cut that cord or broken it by now. > > > > On Sun, 31 May 2009, NLG wrote: > > > > > I have three of them. The first one bit the dust, however, I used it so often that I bought two more, one is in storage just in case they quit making them. The price you quoted is about the same as I paid a year ago. > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > From: Betsy Whitney > > > To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com > > > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 2:05 PM > > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >I saw this item and wondered if anyone had any experience with it. I > > > >also want to know if the price is reasonable. > > > >Marlin P. Jones and Associates has a Talking Digital Multimeter for $39.95. > > > >It measures voltage and current and speaks the results. Two AA > > > >batteries are required. > > > Thanks, Betsy > > > > > > Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter
Yes, they do run on batteries - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 12:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter do they run on batteries? I have an expensive model from Science Products that is a standard meter with a speak unit affixed and I have to run it on an adaptor. I'm lucky it's not a "woodwork" item or I'd have cut that cord or broken it by now. On Sun, 31 May 2009, NLG wrote: > I have three of them. The first one bit the dust, however, I used it so often that I bought two more, one is in storage just in case they quit making them. The price you quoted is about the same as I paid a year ago. > > - Original Message - > From: Betsy Whitney > To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 2:05 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter > > > > > > > >I saw this item and wondered if anyone had any experience with it. I > >also want to know if the price is reasonable. > >Marlin P. Jones and Associates has a Talking Digital Multimeter for $39.95. > >It measures voltage and current and speaks the results. Two AA > >batteries are required. > Thanks, Betsy > > Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] gas/electric refrigerator
Yes that is usually the way they work. You may need to plug the camper in to outlet power for the Electric part to work. - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 6:56 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] gas/electric refrigerator HI, I have a old camper with a propane gas / 120 electric refrigerator in it.. Right now I have no gas to try the refrigerator but when I try it on electric Don't here any noise like a compressor starting.. This thing was given to me so this the first time trying this stuff.. Would the refrigerator just have a electric heating unit in it to heat up the refrigerant like the gas would and not have a compressor in it??? Thanks for any help.. ROB FROM MINNESOTA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter
It is easier to understand, but it smells horrible for the first few days. I also think that it does more, and sighted people say it has lighted test leads. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 3:22 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter Just curious, does the new model do more than the old Radio Shack unit? I have one of the RS units around here, but can't recall all it does and I've been considering one of these other units. tnx, On May 31, 2009, at 3:04 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote: > > > I have one and it's a good deal. The female voice is easy to > understand as well. > > I still have my original talking multimeter from Radio Shack I got > around 92 or so and I gave $100 for it. > > I also got my latest one from the same place you are asking about > and they are good people to deal with. I never had a problem with > them or the tool. > > - Original Message - > From: Betsy Whitney > To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 2:05 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter > > >I saw this item and wondered if anyone had any experience with it. I > >also want to know if the price is reasonable. > >Marlin P. Jones and Associates has a Talking Digital Multimeter for > $39.95. > >It measures voltage and current and speaks the results. Two AA > >batteries are required. > Thanks, Betsy > > Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter
I have several. I like them very much. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 12:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter >I saw this item and wondered if anyone had any experience with it. I >also want to know if the price is reasonable. >Marlin P. Jones and Associates has a Talking Digital Multimeter for $39.95. >It measures voltage and current and speaks the results. Two AA >batteries are required. Thanks, Betsy Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air compressor weird need
Get a good portable one for Cars. They usually produce over 100 pounds. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindHandyMan Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 4:27 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Air compressor weird need Hi folks, I need to find a small air compressor that will produce maybe a hundred pounds of pressure but at very low volume. It's just for testing some gauges, so all it has to do is pressurize a few feet of hose and then sit there. Accuracy is of no importance, there will be other gauges in line to do the comparitive measurements. It won't be running for very long certainly more than half an hour at a crack and only acouple times a day or like that. so what do you air guys think i can get away with for simplicity and low cost for this kind of need? Note, as my home email is down at the moment, I wmay not be back to read answers till Monday. Thanks for any suggestions. Tom fowle [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] security pad lock
Yes. If you have the room, heat the lock with something like a sure fire propane torch. Then use a good hack saw. You can also call the company and possibly give them either proof of purchase or some numbers and get another key. - Original Message - From: "Lenny McHugh" To: "handyman-blind" Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 9:22 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] security pad lock > Well my son-in-law has a security pad lock on his bike. He lost the key, > which is common for him. I have a bolt cutter that only slightly nicked > the > lock. I have a dremmal with a cut-off wheel. In a few seconds the teeth > were removed from the cutter. Any suggestions on how to remove this lock? > --- > Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous > with many resources for the blind. > http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ > Lenny > > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Best, cheap, Audible level?
Blind mice mart has an audible level that costs about $30 or so. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 7:28 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Best, cheap, Audible level? You can Google Stabila electronic level or check on Amazon. I went to Amazon right quick and plugged in Stabila electronic and 13 different models came up. They run from 14 inches, very pricey for such a small unit, and I stopped when I saw they got to 59 inches. I didn't pay attention to the price but I think it was 170. I gave 153 for mine 2 years ago and love it. Here is what the ad says for the 48 inch model. It is the 1st that came up in the search. Product Description From the Manufacturer Stabila's new 48" TECH level offers both a Stabila spirit level with patented vial system that are guaranteed accurate for life, and a dual display electronic level. The two digital displays are located on the top edge and the front face for easier and faster reads. The frame is 30% stronger than our previous electronic level and all four corners have been retained on the new frame. High accuracy electronic module: 0.05 degrees (1/16" over 72") and offers fast and easy one-button calibration. Electronic module reads in degrees, percentage or inches per foot so you can set slope and pitch. Audible tone on any selected degree for duplicating angles quickly without having to read the screen. Great for concrete contractors installing handicap ramps or any sidewalk or slab that needs specific angle or slope. Inspectors use electronic levels to check contractors work. Trim carpenters use electronic levels to determine angles on stairs to build railings. Framing carpe nters use electronic levels to check pitches on existing roofs and duplicate pitches on common rafters, difficult rafters or valleys and crickets. All professional contractors appreciate the speed of the Stabila TECH level to increase productivity and accuracy. Product Description 360 degree Digital Measuring.Display always reads upright. Select from degrees,percent slope, or audio (beep) alert. Certified Vial Accuracy; in top read position: (.029 degrees) 1/32. Digital accuracy tolerance: at 0 degrees, 90 degrees= plus or minus .1 inches, Between 1 degree and 89 degrees= plus or minus .2 degrees. Includes: Soft Case with Strap -- Product Details a.. Product Dimensions: 48 x 2 x 3 inches ; 2.8 pounds - Original Message - From: Alan & Terrie Robbins To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 8:34 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Best, cheap, Audible level? Bob Do you have a model # and cost on this? thanks Al -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Saturday, May 02, 2009 2:10 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Best, cheap, Audible level? Best and cheap don't really go together. Probably the best you can buy for not much is the one from MaxiAids. It may well be the Zircon, they won't say. If that is the most you can afford, you can do ok by getting one and attaching it to a regular 4 foot model. The one from MaxiAids is only about 10 inches long. When I got mine, I used zip ties to attach it to my larger level. - Original Message - From: Keith Patterson To: Blind HandyMan Sent: Saturday, May 02, 2009 9:06 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Best, cheap, Audible level? Any one got an idea on the Best, cheap, Audible level? Sorry if this has been covered before, I kind of just linger in the back ground and don't get to all the threads on this list. Keith Patterson kpatt...@tampabay.rr.com Where am I to go, when I have gone to far? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding.
Well if on a tower they probably would have some kind of bracket or system of them to hold the antenna. I have only bolted a Rotator to a tower, but I have never climbed one. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 11:34 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding. I have never seen a commercially made antenna whose performance would be degraded by being mounted on a grounded mast. How would you mount such an antenna on a steel tower that has its bottom end buried in the ground? Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: "Gerry Leary" To: Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 6:35 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding. > Don't ground the mast. Put a lightening arrester on top of it. If you > ground the mast, you will inhibit the proper functioning of the antenna. > If you are not sure about this look at the information about the antenna > you are going to buy. > - Original Message - > From: Max Robinson > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 12:21 PM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding. > > > > > > Dan. There are obviously divided opinions on this but I believe that the > mast should be grounded. Nothing will protect you against a direct hit > but > a near miss can get you too. Grounding the mast can really help in this > case. > > Regards. > > Max. K 4 O D S. > > Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com > > Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net > Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net > Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com > > To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, > funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com > > - Original Message - > From: "Dan Rossi" > To: > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 8:32 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding. > > > So you guys are implying that grounding the antenna mast to protect > > against a close lightening strike is not necessary? I was under the > > impression that it was pretty common to do so, if not required. I won't > > go out of my way if I don't have to, just thought it was necessary. > > > > -- > > Blue skies. > > Dan Rossi > > Carnegie Mellon University. > > E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu > > Tel: (412) 268-9081 > > > > > > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > > blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com > > To listen to the show archives go to link > > > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > > Or > > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From > Various > > List Members At The Following address: > > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > > > Visit the archives page at the following address > > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > > address for more information: > > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > > list just send a blank message to: > > blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding.
If you ground the mast you will find that you have to insulate the antenna from the mast to get good reception. This is because the electricity from the signal that you want to listen to will go to the place of least resistance which will be the ground wire. You will get much better protection if you use a lightening arrester on top of the mast, and then use lightening protection in series with the lead wire. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 12:55 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding. Hi Dan. As I recall no one has addressed the issue of running the ground wire down the inside of the chimney. I think that is likely the safest thing you can do. One of the ways that lightening starts fires is by heating the grounding wire to its melting point. Bits of molten copper land on wood and set it on fire. Since the inside of a chimney is made to be hot there's no problem. In a direct hit the copper wire will act as a fuse and protect the steel water pipe from being melted. The lightening rods on our house in Iowa where we used to get some really whiz bangers in the summer were entirely made of iron rod. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: "Dan Rossi" To: Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 1:34 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding. > Well, I'll let you radio guys duke it out, but I'll probably ground the > mast. I mean, why have all these tools if I can't use them. > > My original question wasn't so much should I ground the mast, but if it > was cosher to run the ground line down the inside of the chimney and then > ground it to the water line, or have to run it outside to a ground rod. > > The ground rod sounds like more work, so that is probably what I'll do. > > Now I need to investigate what the best solutions are for connecting a > laptop to the TV. I don't have an HD TV, but there are auxilary inputs, > and I believe an S video input. I don't think there is a direct V G A > input though. > > -- > Blue skies. > Dan Rossi > Carnegie Mellon University. > E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu > Tel: (412) 268-9081 > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding.
Don't ground the mast. Put a lightening arrester on top of it. If you ground the mast, you will inhibit the proper functioning of the antenna. If you are not sure about this look at the information about the antenna you are going to buy. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 12:21 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding. Dan. There are obviously divided opinions on this but I believe that the mast should be grounded. Nothing will protect you against a direct hit but a near miss can get you too. Grounding the mast can really help in this case. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: "Dan Rossi" To: Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 8:32 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding. > So you guys are implying that grounding the antenna mast to protect > against a close lightening strike is not necessary? I was under the > impression that it was pretty common to do so, if not required. I won't > go out of my way if I don't have to, just thought it was necessary. > > -- > Blue skies. > Dan Rossi > Carnegie Mellon University. > E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu > Tel: (412) 268-9081 > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding.
It is not necessary and it really isn't common. You could put lightening protection on top of the mast and ground that, but when you use an outdoor antenna most do not want to be connected to a grounded mast. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 7:32 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding. So you guys are implying that grounding the antenna mast to protect against a close lightening strike is not necessary? I was under the impression that it was pretty common to do so, if not required. I won't go out of my way if I don't have to, just thought it was necessary. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding.
You should not need to ground the mast. Unless it is very long, grounding the most might not bee bood for the ntenn. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 12:27 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding. Dan. It's usually a bad idea to put an antenna on a chimney because of structural considerations. The force of wind on the antenna will place part of the chimney in tension. Mortar joints aren't very strong under that condition. I have seen chimneys destroyed from an antenna mounted on them. As far as grounding I would try to ground the antenna mast to the electric meter ground. Some local electric codes forbid that so you should check into it. If they do, you need to drive one or more ground rods into a patch of dirt that gets watered frequently. The ground under a deck will dry out and not give a very good ground. When you count 10 or less between lightening and thunder you should turn off your set and disconnect the antenna. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: "Dan Rossi" To: Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 9:48 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding. > Hey folks, > > I know we have some hams on the list, and some amateur radio guys as well. > *GRIN* I am going to put up a TV antenna and ditch my cable. So, some > questions. > > Should I put the antenna on my chimney, on top of my chimney, on the peak > of the house, or just on the eve of the house as long as it is pointing in > the correct direction. > > About grounding it. If I put it on the chimney, can I run the ground wire > down the inside of the chimney, then connect it to the main ground wire > for the house? Oh yeah, the chimney isn't used for exhausting anything > anymore. > > If that is not a good idea, can I still run it down the inside of the > chimney then out through the side of the chimney and attach it to a ground > stake? > > OK, now for the rant part. You knew it was coming. > > With digital TV, as long as you have a pretty good signal, you either have > a picture or you don't. There is no poor image, snowy image, or anything > like that. > > Secondly, all of the transmitters in the area are in the same basic > direction from me, I live on a high hill with clear line of site toward > the transmitters. > > Most of the local stations are now broadcasting multiple channels using > their HD sub channels. > > With a laptop connected to my TV, I can stream on demand TV from hulu and > directly from the network sites. I can also stream from NetFlicks. > > So I just don't see a reason to pay for cable anymore. > > -- > Blue skies. > Dan Rossi > Carnegie Mellon University. > E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu > Tel: (412) 268-9081 > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding.
Hello Dan, WB6IVF Gerry Leary here. First I don't know much about the antenna you have, so I don't know what the connecters on it are. But on all that I have seen, there are two lugs made for Ladder line or twin lead. You can buy an adapter that will make that a type F connecter for cable. Then you connect 1 end of a normal cable to it and the other end to the TV. Usually the antenna does not need an; external ground other then the lead back to the television. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 8:48 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Antenna grounding. Hey folks, I know we have some hams on the list, and some amateur radio guys as well. *GRIN* I am going to put up a TV antenna and ditch my cable. So, some questions. Should I put the antenna on my chimney, on top of my chimney, on the peak of the house, or just on the eve of the house as long as it is pointing in the correct direction. About grounding it. If I put it on the chimney, can I run the ground wire down the inside of the chimney, then connect it to the main ground wire for the house? Oh yeah, the chimney isn't used for exhausting anything anymore. If that is not a good idea, can I still run it down the inside of the chimney then out through the side of the chimney and attach it to a ground stake? OK, now for the rant part. You knew it was coming. With digital TV, as long as you have a pretty good signal, you either have a picture or you don't. There is no poor image, snowy image, or anything like that. Secondly, all of the transmitters in the area are in the same basic direction from me, I live on a high hill with clear line of site toward the transmitters. Most of the local stations are now broadcasting multiple channels using their HD sub channels. With a laptop connected to my TV, I can stream on demand TV from hulu and directly from the network sites. I can also stream from NetFlicks. So I just don't see a reason to pay for cable anymore. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Planned Obsolescence, Are We being ripped Off.
What company makes a washer like that? - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 2:35 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Planned Obsolescence, Are We being ripped Off. Ray, I agree, but I have been fortunate that only a few things have either broken down or had to be replaced mainly do to lack of care by previous owners. However, I did purchase a clothes washer that can be repaired by the end user and in fact the company will walk you through the process on the phone if they have to do so. There is no trans in this machine and is referred to as the "Model-T" of washers. So, true things ware out and are not made to last like back when, but try to find items that can be serviced by the end user as much as possible and that may help make them last a little longer. Of course televisions and other devices are not going to fit this category in most cases. On Apr 11, 2009, at 5:36 PM, Ray Boyce wrote: > > > Increasing I am finding appliances I buy simply do not last, like > they did > in our parents time. > > For example, we recently purchased a Microwave which did not work at > all > when we got home, so we took it back only to find the next one they > pulled > out of the box had a dint in the side. > > So they tried another one this time it actually worked, where is > quality > control. > > We purchased a Television for our Caravan which clapped out just > after the > warranty expired, which now has to be thrown away. > > This is becoming a frequent occurrence in the technological realm. > In our > homes and offices we have computers, televisions, appliances, etc. > with more > functions than we'd ever be able to fully comprehend, let alone > enjoy (not > to mention the endless piles of outdated keyboards, power cords, > mice and so > forth, all rendered virtually useless as these new improvements are > introduced. > > They keep changing Windows Operating systems in advances in > technology which > they say we need but this forces us to buy systems which work in these > environments thus making our old systems useless. > > And cell phones? Well, every month, it seems, there is something new > they > can do; making calls has almost become secondary to text-messaging, > video > sharing and TV-watching., we're all clamouring for the new thing (and > willing to wait in line and overpay for it) - even when the old > thing still > works great. > > Washing machines used to last 30 years now we have had the electronics > replaced twice in 5 years just as the warranty period expired. > > We pay good money these days for appliances with No longevity, which > ends up in land fill. > > What have you in your home which either has broken down and is too > expensive > to fix, or new technology changes has made that item useless. > > Think about what you have, and you might be surprised at how many > you can > name. > > Ray > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Planned Obsolescence, Are We being ripped Off.
Check out a brand called Magic Chef. - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 6:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Planned Obsolescence, Are We being ripped Off. Here is the US, it is lost some where in China or Mexico. For example, I bought a refrigerator about 6 years ago and it had a five year warrantee and cost about $700 and was made in the U S. Went looking for a refrigerator a few months ago with a friend. All the refrigerators were assembled in the U S and all the parts came from every where else. The cost is around $1500 to $2400 with a one year warrantee. That is from the GE brands, and etc. RJ - Original Message - From: Ray Boyce To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 17:36 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Planned Obsolescence, Are We being ripped Off. Increasing I am finding appliances I buy simply do not last, like they did in our parents time. For example, we recently purchased a Microwave which did not work at all when we got home, so we took it back only to find the next one they pulled out of the box had a dint in the side. So they tried another one this time it actually worked, where is quality control. We purchased a Television for our Caravan which clapped out just after the warranty expired, which now has to be thrown away. This is becoming a frequent occurrence in the technological realm. In our homes and offices we have computers, televisions, appliances, etc. with more functions than we'd ever be able to fully comprehend, let alone enjoy (not to mention the endless piles of outdated keyboards, power cords, mice and so forth, all rendered virtually useless as these new improvements are introduced. They keep changing Windows Operating systems in advances in technology which they say we need but this forces us to buy systems which work in these environments thus making our old systems useless. And cell phones? Well, every month, it seems, there is something new they can do; making calls has almost become secondary to text-messaging, video sharing and TV-watching., we're all clamouring for the new thing (and willing to wait in line and overpay for it) - even when the old thing still works great. Washing machines used to last 30 years now we have had the electronics replaced twice in 5 years just as the warranty period expired. We pay good money these days for appliances with No longevity, which ends up in land fill. What have you in your home which either has broken down and is too expensive to fix, or new technology changes has made that item useless. Think about what you have, and you might be surprised at how many you can name. Ray [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Planned Obsolescence, Are We being ripped Off.
I still have the 1968 Maytag washer that was here when I bought the house. I still have the 1978 dryer, the 1983 fridge and I am thinking of replacing the fridge with one of the new energy star ones. - Original Message - From: Ray Boyce To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 3:36 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Planned Obsolescence, Are We being ripped Off. Increasing I am finding appliances I buy simply do not last, like they did in our parents time. For example, we recently purchased a Microwave which did not work at all when we got home, so we took it back only to find the next one they pulled out of the box had a dint in the side. So they tried another one this time it actually worked, where is quality control. We purchased a Television for our Caravan which clapped out just after the warranty expired, which now has to be thrown away. This is becoming a frequent occurrence in the technological realm. In our homes and offices we have computers, televisions, appliances, etc. with more functions than we'd ever be able to fully comprehend, let alone enjoy (not to mention the endless piles of outdated keyboards, power cords, mice and so forth, all rendered virtually useless as these new improvements are introduced. They keep changing Windows Operating systems in advances in technology which they say we need but this forces us to buy systems which work in these environments thus making our old systems useless. And cell phones? Well, every month, it seems, there is something new they can do; making calls has almost become secondary to text-messaging, video sharing and TV-watching., we're all clamouring for the new thing (and willing to wait in line and overpay for it) - even when the old thing still works great. Washing machines used to last 30 years now we have had the electronics replaced twice in 5 years just as the warranty period expired. We pay good money these days for appliances with No longevity, which ends up in land fill. What have you in your home which either has broken down and is too expensive to fix, or new technology changes has made that item useless. Think about what you have, and you might be surprised at how many you can name. Ray [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] garbage disposal
Hello Bob, That was a very good explanation. I do most of my own kitchen work, and I found your note to be very good. I wish I could write that well. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 6:12 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] garbage disposal As long as you already have power in place, there really isn't much to installing one if you can get past the pain of working in a tight area with a rather heavy and hard to hold piece. It's a good idea to get a new kit for under the sink. I like to run with 2 inch myself, especially knowing there is a disposal involved. You can pick up a "kit" at any of the box stores. It will have the 2 lines that run up to the sink basket, but if you get 1 for a disposal you only need the 1 vertical drop line. You also need to make sure the trap and rest of the lines out are the same size. Don't go big and step down in size or you will create a lot of extra pressure at that point. What can make this a pain is if you have a dish washer to plumb in as well. The drain kit will have a stem on some, and so will some disposals. If there is a stem on the disposal avoid getting one on the drain as well. An extra hole to fill. The hardest part is removing the old basket from the sink. They sell a tool that looks like a long socket with a couple hooks on the end. Some have a rod already in the other end, others include the rod and you keep track of it. The hooks will fit in the basket and then you will twist the rod to make the basket come loose. If you have a helper, it works nice for them to hold the rod while you go under the sink and tap the retainer ring loose. Once the basket is out of the way, you can figure out how the new basket goes in place. Have some plumbers putty or my favorite is still silicone sealer from the automotive world. Put a bead around the top side of the sink and set the basket in place. Most likely there will be a gasket that goes on the bottom side of the sink, followed by a retainer ring. You can use the gasket, but because I am so familiar with Murphy's law, I will still put a little sealer on the bottom side of the sink as well. Tighten the retainer ring and the fun can start. I can't tell you how to mount the disposal to the sink. There are several ways I've seen used and they are all a little different. Most common seems to have a spring and catch assembly that you have to thread part of on to the bottom of the basket. Then you twist the disposal until it snaps in place over the spring. There are usually about 3 screws to tighten to keep the unit from vibrating and twisting around. Now you can connect the pipes to the opening on the side of the disposal and to the other side of the sink. If you have a dish washer involved, tie it in now and run the water for a while to check for leaks. Finally put the wires together. Make sure to use the clamp that comes with the disposal to hold the house wires to the bottom of the disposal. Use wire nuts to connect the black with the black and white with white. Carefully stuff the wires in place and screw in the cap to cover the opening. If you made it this far, turn the water on and flip the switch. Listen to that new unit come to life. If nothing happens remember there may be kids around before you start preaching and try to figure out what went wrong... There may be a circuit breaker on the unit that needs pushed in before it will work the first time. Good luck - Original Message - From: Robert Riddle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 6:26 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] garbage disposal What do I need to know to install a garbage disposal? Obviously the size of the drain and stuff like that, but anything else more specific? Thanks. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] garbage disposal
Well it would be easier if you got the same size and configuration, because then you wouldn't have to play around with the pipes. - Original Message - From: Robert Riddle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 4:26 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] garbage disposal What do I need to know to install a garbage disposal? Obviously the size of the drain and stuff like that, but anything else more specific? Thanks. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] rebuilding a carbeurator
That won't help. Also that might destroy any rubber diaphragms that are in there. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 6:05 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] rebuilding a carbeurator any thoughts from list members about soaking that old carb in a straight kerosene for a couple of weeks? Lee On Mon, Mar 23, 2009 at 10:18:43AM -0700, David Engebretson Jr. wrote: > I've got a lawn mower that has been sitting for some time and would like to > rebuild the carb. at least clean all the old gas out and give it some love > so it will run well again. > > > > Any tips for doing this as a blind handyman? > > > > Thanks, > > David > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > -- Satellite Safety Tip #14: If you see a bright streak in the sky coming at you, duck. Are you curious? Visit my web site: http://www.sedac.mailsent.net [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] question on interference form computers
Try turning the power plug of the laptop over in the socket if it is not polarized. Sometimes this can help. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 3:23 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] question on interference form computers I could do that, but the only reason I put the machine to sleep is after hours and I still need it ready in the event somethng comes up. Yes, I could probably do that or even just disconnect it, but I am trying more to udnerstand the problem really. tnx, On Mar 2, 2009, at 6:19 PM, Mike Rusk wrote: > What if you turn off the computer instead of putting it to sleep? > Maybe it is still trying to access something even though it is > sleeping, just a thought. > > - Original Message - > From: Scott Howell > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, March 02, 2009 4:44 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] question on interference form computers > > Hey folks, I have a rather interesting problem that I hope is > acceptable for the list. Let me explain my setup and then I'll explain > the problem. > > I have a small mixer that has three or so inputs. I have my employer's > Dell laptop, my Macintosh, and a cable into which I plug my electric > bass. All this is served by one pair of headphones. Now in order to > save on space and so forth, I have a usb KVM switch. servicing both > computers. THis KVM only handles a keyboard and mouse, but you could > connect video, which I do not. So, when I have the Mac and PC laptop > connected and running, everything is fine. If I shut the laptop lid/ > put it to sleep, but leave it connected, I get this humming noise that > is not 60Mhz, but probably almost twice that. I can disconnect the > laptop and then soud goes away or if I adjust the mixer controls just > so, I can cancel out the sound. For some reason it sometimes gets > messed up and that usually is because I have made a slight adjustment > to something and then I have to start all over again isulating the > sound by tweaking things. So, has anyone have any thoughts on how I > might correct this problem, so I do not have to keeep messing with the > controls? It could be the mixer, but I suspect there is an issue with > both machines being connected to the KVM and this is a pretty cheap > KVM. The KVM is not near the computers, it is under my desk. > > Thanks, > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rotating Tyres
Just go straight from front to back, and leave the spare alone if it is different then the other four. Most of the time cars have a space saver spare. Also don't forget to check your pressures often. - Original Message - From: Agent86b To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 1:13 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rotating Tyres Hi all, we have just purchased a new car. I wish to rotate the tyres from time - to - time. As there are five new ones, what is the rotation order? Please if anybody answers this can you say what country you are from so I can change it to a right-hand drive car if necessary. Thanks for any advice. Max. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] portable propane heater
Some of the heaters use a catalytic element which burns all of the bad parts in the propane. I don't know about the tanks, but if there are no leaks then you should have no trouble. - Original Message - From: "Lenny McHugh" To: "handyman-blind" Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 8:03 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] portable propane heater >I have been considering purchasing a portable propane heater with the hope >I > never use it. Last week many homes in my area lost power for two days. I > thought about this just for an emergency situation. Where I am confused is > the unit is designed for indoor use and uses a 20 pound cylinder. All of > the > cylinders that I have state for outdoor use only. Two different sales > people > told me that they use it and just take the tank from their grill. I do > have > two high quality Webber tanks, just not sure if I should follow through. > --- > Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous > with many resources for the blind. > http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ > Lenny > > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking rain gauge
can you still get one? - Original Message - From: Rodger Hood To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 1:56 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking rain gauge I have had the same model for over 35 years. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 11:44 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking rain gauge I've had an accessible talking rain gauge for over 38 years now. I just push Janet out the door in sock feet. You can hear all you ever wanted to about the rain all over the neighbourhood. - Original Message - From: David W Wood To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 1:23 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] talking rain gauge The weatherpuls range work. I bought one here in the U.K. a few months ago for about £70. David W Wood GUILDFORD PHYSIOTHERAPY AND SPORTS CLINIC MATTHEWS HOUSE 85 EPSOM ROAD GUILDFORD SURREY GU1 3PA T: 01483 575876 (APPOINTMENTS) 302691 (ALL OTHER INQUIRIES/FAX) E: recept...@guildfordphysio.net W: http://tinyurl.com/5wptcp DISCLAIMER The information contained in this e-mail is strictly confidential and is intended solely for the individual/s to whom it is addressed. If you are not the intended recipient or have received this e-mail in error please delete it immediately. Any disclosure including but not withstanding reading copying or distribution of all or part of the information contained herein is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Although this email and any attachments are believed to be free of any virus or any other defect which might affect any computer or system on which they are received and/or opened it is the responsibility of the recipient to ensure that they are virus free and no responsibility is accepted by The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports Clinic for any loss or damage arising in any way from receipt or use thereof. Any opinions or advice contained in this email are not necessarily those of The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports Clinic or any individual or individuals working or acting on its behalf. Any prices shown are in pounds sterling and include VAT. Delivery and Expense charges are excluded unless otherwise stated. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wstep...@everestkc.net Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 4:25 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking rain gauge I've been trying to build one of these for a couple years now and have had nothing but grief. I suspect that some of the wireless weather stations out there could be made to talk through your computer, but I don't have a specific make or model in mind. If you do find something, please let me or the List know. Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: northcoastdoug Date: Thursday, February 12, 2009 8:40 pm Subject: [BlindHandyMan] talking rain gauge > Anyone have a talking rain gauge, or tactile rain measuring system? > > Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.10.23/1950 - Release Date: 02/12/09 18:46:00 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.9 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 458 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
