Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking thermometer or other solution.

[Spiro]

then even a usb connection could help, maybe.
I love Kona!





On Tue, 7 Sep 2010, Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press wrote:

> Aloha Sheryl,
> Given that the beans are inside a drum that can
> be 400 degrees hotter than the actual beans, I
> think that some device that will speak the
> digital readout of the existing thermometers
> would be the easiest way to go since those
> thermometers are already installed in the big roaster.
> I wonder if the manufacturer of the roaster could
> be of any assistance in this quest.
> Betsy
> At 08:32 PM 9/7/2010, you wrote:
>>
>>
>> Aloha everyone,
>>
>> I am looking for your great solutions.
>> I roast coffee beans in a roasting machine that has a drum made of cast iron.
>> The drum can get to around 700 degrees. The beans get to around 400
>> degrees plus depending on the darkness you want. The beans touch a
>> sensor which tells on a print display what temperature the beans are
>> at. It is critical to know the temperature of the beans which is
>> vital to the roasting process . I am looking for a talking device
>> that could read the digital temperature display or a talking
>> thermometer that has a probe that can be put in to the barrel and the
>> beans touching the probe will register the temperature of the beans.
>> I might like a wireless thermometer if one exists so I can access the
>> temperature everywhere in the wear house and do the next steps
>> required for completing the roasting process. I suggest that the
>> thermometer probe or sensor be able to tolerate temperatures up to
>> 800 degrees. Look forward to hearing from you.
>> Aloha Sheryl
>>
>>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] old refrigerator

[Spiro]

we dumped a cup of coffee (large, with cream and sugar)  into a dot matrix 
printer accidentally. I figured it was fried. So we unplugged it and 
turned it off and dumped a small amount of windex in after that. Next day 
it worked, and worked for another 4 years.





On Tue, 7 Sep 2010, Lenny McHugh wrote:

> Well, the old refrigerator that I am recycling through the pp&l program 
> almost totally let me down. They are picking it up tomorrow morning. There 
> was a message on my answering machine that it must be plugged in and running. 
> It was running when it was moved outside so I plugged it in tonight and 
> nothing. Here it tripped the gfci outlet. after resetting it did not work 
> just kept tripping the outlet. Just for kicks I plugged it into an outlet 
> from inside not gfci. This time the light came on but nothing else. After 
> toying for a few minutes my son-in-law said hit it. I picked up one end and 
> dropped on the porch and it started running. Plugged it back into the gfci 
> and it it still works. I suspect that a relay was stuck tripping the gfci but 
> not enough to short out the unprotected line. Anyway it is working so I will 
> get my $35 and free removal tomorrow morning. It reminds me of an old 
> Burroughs field engineer who hit the computer main console and it started 
> working, his commen
 t was that they do not pay me to hit it but for knowing where to hit it.
> ---
> Please visit my home page, it is motivational, educational, inspirational 
> with a touch of humor. There is also a very extensive resource list for the 
> blind.
> http://www.LennyMcHugh.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Reliable Compass

[Spiro]

any difference is durability, price or features on which you can comment?





On Tue, 7 Sep 2010, William Stephan wrote:

> Ed:  My take on this is that a compass is something you use when you'are
> perhaps having a problem, like say being lost in bad weather.  So, simple is
> good.  Yes, a GPS unit can give you a direction of travel, but moving around
> when you're already lost or unfamiliar with the environment is not such a
> good idea, particularly for blinks.  I know a lot of people like talking
> compasses, but again, they're subject to fail when wet etc.
>
> So, I've had good luck with two brands of Braille compass which are:
>
> Silva compass
>
> www.silvacompass.com/
>
>
>
> And Brunton Compass
>
> www.brunton.com 
>
>
>
> Both these outfits make or at least made Braille compasses, of the kind
> where you have a free-floating wheel with cardinal directions on it which
> locks when the lid is opened.I rarely leave home without one BTW.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Edward Przybylek
> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 15:14
> To: BlindHandyMan
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Reliable Compass
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I realize this topic has been discussed before and I did look in the
> archives before sending this message but found the number of messages on the
> topic to be a bit daunting. I'd simply like to know if anyone is using a
> Braille compass that works reliably for them. I tried the Columbus Talking
> Digital Compass and I found it to be absolutely worthless. In a majority of
> the times I tried to use the compass it gave me readings that were
> completely wrong. I returned it yesterday. I've seen advertisements for a
> couple of Braille compasses but I'd like to know if they're any better than
> the talking compasses before I go through all the trouble of ordering one
> only to return it a few days later. Any advice on a reliable Braille
> compass will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Take care,
>
> Ed Przybylek
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat!

[Spiro]

two or more straight weeks of 95+ and 51f last night.
I ask the same?




On Sat, 4 Sep 2010, Dale Leavens wrote:

> It's 44F here this evening! Who turned off the heat! Didn't get up to 50 all 
> day.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

RE: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted

[Spiro]

so the heat of the steam made it livable?

Hope systems improve so folks don't have to live through that again.





On Thu, 2 Sep 2010, Cy Selfridge wrote:

> Hi Spiro,
>
> I kept them going on the stove top and they acted like hot water heaters.
> They did not heat the entire 90 foot long mobile home but the main living
> area was liveable (nearly). The temps would dip to the teens and one night
> it fell below 10F. That was truly an awful time which I really do not care
> to repeat. We kept the water running in all of the faucets so the lines
> would not freeze and we were very lucky on that count. We had a good 2
> inches of ice everywhere outside. For the first several days no one in Tulsa
> had gasoline for sale because they did not have electricity to run the gas
> pumps. After 3 or 4 days more and more stations had their generators running
> but most of the grocery stores were dead in the water.
>
> Wal-Mart did manage to get it together and did business on a limited basis.
> A lot of Tulsa had electricity within a week but our poor mobile home park
> was among the last to get power. The blamed recreation park across the
> street from our park had electricity after 9 or so days but, alas, not us.
> Once we could get out and get supplies life did get easier but we were sure
> overjoyed to see the lights come back on.
>
> From what I remember there was probably not more than 1,000 feet of power
> lines left undamaged in the entire Tulsa metro area.
>
> I am glad I live where I do.
>
> Interestingly there was a substation explosion in the north central part of
> Tulsa a couple of months ago and a whole hunk of Tulsa was without power and
> it took a good 3 or so weeks to get everything back to normal. Folks did
> have "limited" power but were told not to run their air-conditioners. Nice
> thing to have happen in the middle of the summer. (LOLLOLLOL)
>
> Cy, The anasazi
>
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Spiro
> Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 12:41 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted
>
>
>
>
>
> okay, sometimes I'm stupid;
> but how did the 5 gallon pots keep you from freezing?
>
> On Thu, 2 Sep 2010, Cy Selfridge wrote:
>
>> Alan,
>>
>> I use those candle lighters and they are quite handy. Yup, you
> occasionally
>> have to go on a search for them if the War Department has used them.
>> (LOLLOL)
>>
>> The Sears stove I had demanded that the stove have electricity in order to
>> use the oven but the stove top sure saved our lives. I used a couple of my
>> very large (5 gallon) pots to hold water and kept it going in order not to
>> freeze to death. I would have used cooking oil but no stores were open to
>> seel it. (LOL)
>>
>> Gads, that was a miserable experience. When I managed to get the home up
> to
>> a balmy 59 degrees we all celebrated.
>>
>> Cy, The Anasazi
>>
>>
>>
>> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> ]
>> On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli
>> Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 8:31 AM
>> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
>
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I read on the AFB accessibility page pretty much the same information
>> concerning the default 350 degree temperature and even 450 is only 10
> button
>>
>> pushes away.
>>
>> The stove we saw with the center burner is gas and they make a to do over
>> cooking on the center large pot burner. And, one of the stoves has the
> hole
>> top of the stove 1 big grate but you could still feel the burner mouths
>> under the grate so you know where to place the pot.
>>
>> I'm not worried about the igniter not working. I'm a long time camper and
>> my stove in the motor home hasn't even got electronic ignition. The way to
>> deal with that is to buy a grill lighter or candle lighter. Basically,
>> their both the same except the grill lighter is a little longer and more
> out
>>
>> doorsy looking. The candle lighter looks nicer and is smaller to fit
>> women's hands better as the packing on one said. Basically, what they both
>> are is a disposable butane lighter with a long nose. These things remind
> me
>> of a rifle in that they have a trigger. They are safe as well. You put
>> your index finger on a

RE: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted

[Spiro]

okay, sometimes I'm stupid;
but how did the 5 gallon pots keep you from freezing?





On Thu, 2 Sep 2010, Cy Selfridge wrote:

> Alan,
>
> I use those candle lighters and they are quite handy. Yup, you occasionally
> have to go on a search for them if the War Department has used them.
> (LOLLOL)
>
> The Sears stove I had demanded that the stove have electricity in order to
> use the oven but the stove top sure saved our lives. I used a couple of my
> very large (5 gallon) pots to hold water and kept it going in order not to
> freeze to death. I would have used cooking oil but no stores were open to
> seel it. (LOL)
>
> Gads, that was a miserable experience. When I managed to get the home up to
> a balmy 59 degrees we all celebrated.
>
> Cy, The Anasazi
>
>
>
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli
> Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 8:31 AM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted
>
>
>
>
>
> I read on the AFB accessibility page pretty much the same information
> concerning the default 350 degree temperature and even 450 is only 10 button
>
> pushes away.
>
> The stove we saw with the center burner is gas and they make a to do over
> cooking on the center large pot burner. And, one of the stoves has the hole
> top of the stove 1 big grate but you could still feel the burner mouths
> under the grate so you know where to place the pot.
>
> I'm not worried about the igniter not working. I'm a long time camper and
> my stove in the motor home hasn't even got electronic ignition. The way to
> deal with that is to buy a grill lighter or candle lighter. Basically,
> their both the same except the grill lighter is a little longer and more out
>
> doorsy looking. The candle lighter looks nicer and is smaller to fit
> women's hands better as the packing on one said. Basically, what they both
> are is a disposable butane lighter with a long nose. These things remind me
> of a rifle in that they have a trigger. They are safe as well. You put
> your index finger on a dial that is spring loaded. You must roll it forward
> and hold it there wile you squeeze the trigger. Their easy for the blind to
> use because you can feel where the tip of the lighter will produce flame
> before you shoot. You turn the gas on, wait a second and fire. The lighter
> ignites the butaine and your burner ignites. If you haven't got the TV
> going full blast or the stereo, you can hear the gas light. They only cost
> a couple of bucks and will last a long time.
>
> I've got a portable Coleman 2 burner propane stove that I keep in the
> storage bin outside in the motor home. It uses the 1 pound propane
> cylinders. I keep a candle lighter in the bottom of it too. When I set up
> the stove on a picnic table, and there it is all ready to go. Very handy
> and you may have to go hunting for it if you've got a candle nut for a wife!
>
> She'll love it. Mine sure does.
>
> Alan
>
> Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
> There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
> the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!
>
> The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
> available upon request.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Cy Selfridge"   >
> To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
>>
> Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 6:43 AM
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted
>
>> Hi Alan,
>>
>> I have purchased at least one of those gas stoves with the buttons for the
>> oven controls. My wife took the stick on bubbles to mark the important
>> buttons (buttons? Rather the space where you need to press) and it worked
>> out quite nice.
>>
>> Most gas stoves are set so the oven comes on at 350F when you start and
>> pressing the up or down button raises or lowers the temp by 5F.
>>
>> I also like the cast iron grates for the pots. On the electric stoves that
>> fifth burner is only for holding something as it does not get hot enough
>> to
>> really cook anything.
>>
>> One thought, if your area is subject to frequent power outages the
>> electronic ignition is not all that great an idea. If there is no
>> electricity you have no oven - unless - you have an inverter which you can
>> plug your stove into then you could have enough electricity to light the
>> oven. When we had the great ice storm in Tulsa, Oklahoma in 2007 I sure
>> wish
>> I have been able to use the oven because it was blamed cold for the two
>> weeks we had no power.
>>
>> Cy, The Anasazi
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> 
> [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  ]
>> On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli
>> Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 7:33 AM
>> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] US Senate passes comprehensive accessibility bill

[Spiro]

let us know when it passes please.





On Thu, 2 Sep 2010, rayb...@westnet.com.au wrote:

> The US Senate yesterday passed the Twenty-first Century Communications and 
> Video Accessibility Act of 2010 by unanimous consent. The bill, described by 
> the Coalition of Organizations for Accessible Technology (COAT) as "a 
> monumental step forward in accessible technology", will have many 
> implications for access in the US.
>
> Among its provisions are the following requirements:
>
>  a.. All captioned TV programs will be captioned when delivered over the 
> Internet.
>  b.. The top 4 network channels and top 5 cable channels will provide audio 
> description (AD) on 7 hours of programming per week.
>  c.. Televised emergency information will be accessible to the blind and 
> vision impaired.
>  d.. Receiving devices of any size will be capable of displaying closed 
> captions, delivering AD, and accessing emergency information.
>  e.. Controls on televisions and set-top boxes will be accessible, and 
> captions and AD easy to access.
> The bill, which has been amended since previously being approved by the House 
> of Representatives, will return to the House for final approval and COAT is 
> optimistic that it will soon be passed.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Belt driven bicycles

[Spiro]

what's the stretch factor compared to metals, any?





On Tue, 31 Aug 2010, Bob Kennedy wrote:

> The chains on motorcycles are made of Kevlar which is also what they make 
> bullet proof vests from.
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
>  To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 3:15 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Belt driven bicycles
>
>
>
>  Aloha all,
>  Some friends of ours are overseas and wrote that they bought a
>  bicycle with a rubber belt instead of a chain. Another person
>  responded that these kind of belts have been used in motorcycles for
>  awhile, but are also appearing in the bicycle world. This may be old
>  news to some of you, but it seem cool to me that they won't rust or
>  need lubrication.
>  Betsy
>  Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] home owner insurance

[Spiro]

especially if he signed the contract with the insurance company.
There will be stipulations in the contract. They  expect folks to follow 
them as folks expect the insurance company to follow them. And for those 
who say "well, the insurance company doesn't always" I say "and they have 
bigger lawyers than we do also."
If you think it is at all possible that you are being *done *wrong your 
state should have an insurance commissioner who addresses these things.





On Tue, 31 Aug 2010, Scott Howell wrote:

> I also have to add to this Jennifer and it is an unpleasant topic. Aside from 
> what Dale has mentioned, you need to find out why your spouse is not 
> motivated to address the issues and he needs to understand that without 
> insurance, the entire family is at risk. If you have a mortgage on the 
> property, it is likely one of the requirements is that appropriate homeowners 
> insurance be maintained. If you cannot get him to understand these issues, 
> you may need to seek outside assistance such as a counselor etc.
> He needs to understand that this is a team effort and his participation is 
> necessary and desired for success of obtaining insurance.
> I wish you luck, you do have some issues ahead of you. I agree with Dale 
> however, that you do need to determine what is the cause of these problems 
> with the house as well.
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cooking with Gloves - Was: Using Gas Grill!

[Spiro]

try your Walmart or Kmart for ovglove, they're kevlar (spelling)





On Mon, 30 Aug 2010, Brice Mijares wrote:

> I'd use silicone gloves with individual fingers  if I \could find a pair,
> but so far, I've only found the mitten type.  This way, the gloves could be
> washed in soapy water.
> - Original Message -
> From: "Bill Gallik" 
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 7:00 AM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cooking with Gloves - Was: Using Gas Grill!
>
>
>> Bryce writes:
>> "Have a pair of gloves with at least leather finger tips on them if you
>> plan
>> to cook anything in foil. this way you can use your hands to turn what
>> ever
>> in the foil."
>>
>> That, Mr. Bryce, is a great idea!!!  How comes I never thunk of that!?!?!?
>>
>> 
>> Holland's Person, Bill
>> E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
>> - The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
>> signature database 5409 (20100830) __
>>
>> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>>
>> http://www.eset.com
>>
>>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using Gas Grill!

[Spiro]

with the grids made of cast iron, aren't they going to rust?
sorry for the odd question.





On Mon, 30 Aug 2010, Dale Leavens wrote:

> I was given one of those big thick gloves with silicone coating which I like 
> to use for handling hot stuff on the grill. Sometimes just as a backing to 
> hold burgers while I slide a spatula under, helps keep the big thick burgers 
> I make from falling apart when flipping. It is also useful to turn an entire 
> row of wieners or those good hot sausages in a single motion.
> I never concern myself with flare-up, I rather like the singe flavour and am 
> glad to see the fat burning off.
> We like good thick cut pork chops, sirloin or t-bone steak. I haven't done 
> kabobs for a very long time now but often think of it.
>
> Mine has a warming rack about 5 inches above the main grill surface, I like 
> to toast buns on it or to make garlicky or cheese bread to go with what ever 
> else is cooking. Often we wrap potatoes in foil and roast them too, starting 
> them before the meet. You can't hardly get it wrong, the potatoes will take a 
> lot of cooking and still taste fine.
>
> I generally start my barbecue with the lid closed but I don't leave the gas 
> run long if it doesn't start nearly immediately. I shut the gas off, wait a 
> moment and start again. Even a slight breeze can keep the gas from igniting.
>
> Although this grill continues to start readily it is usually the starter 
> which fails first. My last one quit working within a year. I kept loosing 
> those little igniter lighters so for seven or ten years I started it with my 
> plumbers torch. Drove Janet crazy!
>
> There isn't really any difference between a barbecue and a gas range. Keeping 
> the propane bottles full is a pain, you might consider direct connection to 
> natural gas if you have gas to your home. I have two gas bottles and keep one 
> spare full all of the time because it isn't always convenient to get a ride 
> to a filling station. This time I also bought a barbecue with a side burner. 
> Don't use it often but occasionally the electricity fails here and Janet is a 
> lot easier to get along with if she gets her tea in the morning.
>
> She is not confident with gas or maybe she just likes me to think that so she 
> isn't expected to use it. She certainly did use it in England and that was a 
> primitive range.
>
> Dale Leavens
>
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Brice Mijares
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 8:45 AM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using Gas Grill!
>
>
>
>  One more item I forgot to mention. Have a pair of glove with at least
>  leather finger tips on them if you plan to cook anything in foil. this way
>  you can use your hands to turn what ever in the foil.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Beware of that noisy hybrid car

[Spiro]

please no!
There was talk of "rocket ship" and other stupid crap.
I have to cross 12 lanes every morning and I want cars to sound like cars 
so that no possible distraction can occur.
Like with music, "oh he didn't hear it cause it was the quiet part". Or, 
maybe having some bozo with something very loud, and I may miss a car 
that's closer.
Please don't let them ontre manuer this one!




On Fri, 27 Aug 2010, Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press wrote:

> I just have to say this before we have to change
> topics... Perhaps people will be able to download
> car-tones like we can ring-tones.
> And I wonder what they will cost, and how they
> will work it so someone gets paid to install them?
> Hmm, an entrepreneurial opportunity?
> At 08:18 PM 8/27/2010, you wrote:
>>
>>
>> can you imagine what a slow highway would sound like with more than one of
>> them playing music?
>> Battle of the bands.
>>
>> On Fri, 27 Aug 2010, jim wrote:
>>
>>> yeah Jennifer but have you ever heard an
>> ice-cream truck go around the block all day?
>>> grin
>>> maybe they could save about 169 dollars and
>> just put a baseballcard to rub on the lug nuts like we did on the old 
>> bicycles.
>>> Jim
>>>
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Beware of that noisy hybrid car

[Spiro]

can you imagine what a slow highway would sound like with more than one of 
them playing music?
Battle of the bands.





On Fri, 27 Aug 2010, jim wrote:

> yeah Jennifer but have you ever heard an ice-cream truck go around the block 
> all day?
> grin
> maybe they could save about 169 dollars and just put a baseballcard to rub on 
> the lug nuts like we did on the old bicycles.
> Jim
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Beware of that noisy hybrid car

[Spiro]

I can understand wanting to cut down on traffic noise, but it should have 
seemed obvious; just give it a car sound and be done with it.





On Sat, 28 Aug 2010, Ray Boyce wrote:

> ONE of the world's quietest cars will use a fake engine noise to help save
> lives.
>
> Toyota has fitted its petrol-electric Prius, the world's best-selling
> hybrid, with a speaker that emits an artificial sound to help warn
> pedestrians of its approach.
>
> General Motors, Nissan and Lotus are among other car makers set to follow
> with similar pedestrian-alert systems as the motor industry responds to
> criticism that hybrids such as the Prius endanger lives, particularly those
> of the blind.
>
> Some safety groups have called hybrids silent killers, and research has
> shown hybrids are more likely to be involved in low-speed accidents with
> pedestrians because of their ability to run in virtual silence on battery
> power alone with the petrol engine switched off.
>
> Toyota's Approaching Vehicle Audible System device is mounted inside the
> Prius's front bumper and makes an exaggerated, synthesised sound of an
> electric motor up to speeds of about 25 km/h. The company says the system,
> which costs about $170 in Japan, is under consideration for Australia.
>
> Such warning tones are expected to become mandatory for hybrids and electric
> vehicles in the United States.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] my experiences with sheetrock compound so far

[Spiro]

I can't do that job without going through half a role of paper towels. but 
they go nice into larger holes too.





On Fri, 27 Aug 2010, blake wrote:

> Hey all, ok so i decided if i messed things up bad with this stuff i would 
> call for help ahha. Anyway so this stuff that i have comes with a puddy knife 
> that i haven't found much use for as of yet. I have been just taking this 
> stuff and basicly smearing it in to the whole with my fingers until it gets 
> over the whole and then i just wait for it to dry. The reason i want it to 
> come up over the whole a bit is so that i can make sure that it got in there 
> really good. Im going to be sanding it down anyway so i don't guess it 
> matters. So is your fingers the best thing for this that you have found? Or 
> have some of you used the puddy knife or a different way of doing this? The 
> problem that i have is that after a while you tend to get allot of your 
> fingers and its hard to tell whats in the whole and what is just sticking to 
> your fingers. Anyway any help guys? The stuff that i got just dries and when 
> it does its like a pouder. Should i use tape at all? Thanks.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] water pressure low in shower?

[Spiro]

doesn't sound weird, works sending it through the coffee maker too.





On Thu, 26 Aug 2010, Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press wrote:

> Blake,
> I've had great results soaking the head in
> vinegar. I know it sounds a little weird, but it
> has kept my water-pick shower massage head
> working for over 30 years. Every couple of years
> I soak it over night in a bowl of vinegar. I've
> heard from others that 30 minutes is enough.
>
> Betsy
> At 11:17 PM 8/25/2010, you wrote:
>>
>>
>> Yep most certainly its the head. I took it off and now there is no
>> water coming out from the bottom. I must replace the head tomorrow.
>> Just curious can you unstop a head?
>>
>> On 8/26/10, Blake Hardin
>> <blakehardin5...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> On 8/26/10, Bob Kennedy
>> <inthes...@att.net> wrote:
 If water is running out of the spout at the bottom as well as the shower
 head, I'd pay attention to the diverter valve.

 You'll either have a stem you have to lift, or a handle to turn in order
 to
 send water to the shower head. If it's leaking at the spout to fill the
 tub, all of the water isn't reaching the top.

 It's always possible the head is plugged and causing a back up of
 pressure.
 Take off the head and see if there is still a leak at the spout.


 - Original Message -
 From: Blake Hardin
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 4:23 AM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] water pressure low in shower?



 Hi all, the water pressure in my shower is kind of low and allot of
 the water still comes out of the bottom faucet. Is it the head that
 needs replacing or what/ I could be wrong bu i believe the head has
 been replaced recently. Any ideas? Thanks.




 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Interested in guitar lessons? Im me at Blindboyblake1.
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Interested in guitar lessons? Im me at Blindboyblake1.
>>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] My Oreck Upright has Died!

[Spiro]

get the advice from Orick, what is quiet and what the db ratings they may 
have measured.
Also, does your upright have that plug mid way up the spine? If so, it may 
be unplugged from the other part of the unit.
3 prong, D shape.





On Sat, 21 Aug 2010, Claudia wrote:

> Hi,
>
> After 8 Years, my Oreck upright vacuum has died.
> I was using it today, feeling so proud of myself because I'd been actually 
> moving the furniture and vacuuming behind it, and all of a sudden, it 
> stopped.  I smelled no burning rubber, nothing felt out of the usual.  I 
> thought that maybe, I may have inadvertently pulled the cord out of the 
> outlet, but that wasn't the case.  I tried it in several outlets of the home, 
> and nothing happened.
> Guess the motor went out possibly?
>
> On another note, I ordered a new Oreck Cannister vac from QVC, and I'm not 
> really liking it.  It doesn't seem to pick up as well, as our original 
> cannister vac.  And, the pieces don't seem to fit tightly enough because the 
> hose keeps disloding from the unit, or the handle dislodges from the hose.  
> It drives me insane.
>
> You may be wondering why we have two Orecks;  we bought them as a set, the 
> upright, cannister & cordless iron, and we've liked them a great deal.
>
> Now, I've been looking online at QVC, and there are several Oreck uprights 
> there, but I just can't figure out which one will be the best.  I like the 
> lightweight feature of the Oreck upright, as I have a good deal of house to 
> cover!
> There is an Oreck set that includes an upright, cannister vac & cordless 
> iron, for $549.
> The premice is that this upright vac is super quiet, but that's a lot of 
> money.  The one drawback to our current Oreck upright is that it is loud.
>
> What to do, what to do!
>
> Claudia
>
> Windows Messenger:  cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
> Skype:  claudiadr10
>
>
> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5385 (20100821) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

RE: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?

[Spiro]

or if some well meaning inspector ever has need to come in on something 
else; they may be well within the power invested in them to shut you down 
for anything else they see and make you do you work all over again at what 
could be the worst time imaginable.





On Fri, 20 Aug 2010, Cy Selfridge wrote:

> Hello folks,
>
> My only comment on this is that it is always a good idea to try to come
> close to the code when possible.
>
> If you should ever have a problem such as a fire or the like and it turns
> out that the disaster was caused by "illegal" creative engerneering your
> homeowner's insurance may not cover the problem.
>
> Cy, the Anasazi
>
>
>
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Michael baldwin
> Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 7:42 AM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
>
>
>
>
>
> UPC:
> 604.11.2 PEX tubing shall not be installed within the first 18" of piping
> connected to a water heater.
>
> Of course, if the area adopts other codes, this may be different.
>
> 2006 PEX Design Guide:
> PEX tubing may be connected directly to residential electric water heaters,
> if the local code and manufacturer's instructions allow.
>
> Not sure what the IRC has for this, so it is best to check with the building
> department.
> Of course, if your not getting a permit, it is probably not a big deal, but
> those codes are put there now because people thought stuff wasn't a big
> deal and they suffered property and life damage due to "not a big deal" when
> building or remodeling.
>
> IMO it is always best to build to at least code, even if your not getting a
> permit.
>
> Michael
>
> _
>
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  ]
> On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
> Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 7:43 AM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
>
> It probably can be bent more severely than i said with care or supported
> with a spring.
>
> As someone else said, it used to be thought that PEX should not come within
> 6 feet of a water heating system, I don't know if that is still true. The
> newer materials are probably more forgiving. One of the main advantages is
> that you can pull it up through partitions without needing to splice in
> elbows and now they are running it in loops to provide under floor heating
> so the radius must be better than I first stated.
>
> I'll try to find out later.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: NLG
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> 
> Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 10:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
>
> Thanks for the reply. Not sure where I got the impression that PEX 3/4 inch
> could be coiled into a loup of 7 inches...Like I said, I never worked with
> PEX before and with new technology coming out every day, maybe they have a
> braded PEX or some product that can be?
> - Original Message -
> From: Dale Leavens
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> 
> Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 9:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
>
> PEX is flexible but only to an arc of maybe 3 feet diameter. In your
> situation you might consider a loop or an arc allowing you the extra length
> when/if you need it. With a hundred feet though you should be able to
> replace it when that occasion arises.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: NLG
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> 
> Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 9:18 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
>
> I have never worked with PEX before. Under the impression that PEX was
> flexable, I thought I had an application here where PEX would be ideal. Last
> year I added a hot water coil to my wood/coal furnace to heat my domestic
> hot water. This setup consisted of a stainless steel loup, approximately 24
> inches long and installed into the fire box of my furnace. Being
> approximately 20 feet away from my electric water heater I could not utilize
> a thermo-syphon, so installed a small circulating pump to move the water
> from the bottom of the electric water heater through the loup installed in
> the wood furnace back to the top of the electric water heater. I used 3/4
> inch soft copper to make the run from the electric water heater to the wood
> furnace and back. This setup worked great last winter, reducing my electric
> bill considerably.
>
> This summer, my electric water heater had to be replaced and like always,
> the inlet, outlet, drain valve, as well as the pop valve are never in the
> same location on the new tank as it was on the old. Not wanting to plumb the
> system again with c

Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?

[Spiro]

that's the smaller diameter, that I have going to a water purifier.
The 1/2 is maybe 12 inches.





On Thu, 19 Aug 2010, NLG wrote:

> Thanks for the reply.  Not sure where I got the impression that PEX 3/4 inch 
> could be  coiled into a loup of 7 inches...Like I said, I never worked with 
> PEX before and with new technology coming out every day,  maybe they have a 
> braded PEX or some product that can be?
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Dale Leavens
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 9:48 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
>
>
>
>  PEX is flexible but only to an arc of maybe 3 feet diameter. In your 
> situation you might consider a loop or an arc allowing you the extra length 
> when/if you need it. With a hundred feet though you should be able to replace 
> it when that occasion arises.
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: NLG
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 9:18 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
>
>  I have never worked with PEX before. Under the impression that PEX was 
> flexable, I thought I had an application here where PEX would be ideal. Last 
> year I added a hot water coil to my wood/coal furnace to heat my domestic hot 
> water. This setup consisted of a stainless steel loup, approximately 24 
> inches long and installed into the fire box of my furnace. Being 
> approximately 20 feet away from my electric water heater I could not utilize 
> a thermo-syphon, so installed a small circulating pump to move the water from 
> the bottom of the electric water heater through the loup installed in the 
> wood furnace back to the top of the electric water heater. I used 3/4 inch 
> soft copper to make the run from the electric water heater to the wood 
> furnace and back. This setup worked great last winter, reducing my electric 
> bill considerably.
>
>  This summer, my electric water heater had to be replaced and like always, 
> the inlet, outlet, drain valve, as well as the pop valve are never in the 
> same location on the new tank as it was on the old. Not wanting to plumb the 
> system again with copper (knowing a few years down the road) I will have to 
> do it all over again, I thought I would connect PEX from the copper I have in 
> place overhead in the floor joyste to the electric water heater, thinking 
> that PEX would be more flexable and when the next time I have to replace a 
> water heater, the hook-up would be easier. I bought the crimping tool, copper 
> crimp rings, the fittings I needed and 100 feet of 3/4 inch PEX tubing. From 
> examining this PEX tubing I know that it is not as flexable as even soft 
> copper of the same size.
>
>  All that having been said... Did I purchase the wrong type PEX? Without 
> installing elbows / 90 degree fittings, is there a way to accomplish a 
> substancial bend in this type PEX (perhaps type C). perhaps using a heat gun? 
> Or would heating the PEX enough to accomplish my goal diminish the integrity 
> of the PEX tubing?
>
>  Thanks :)
>
>  However,
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] more about batteries

[Spiro]

I gave up on ni-cads. Not quite awake, and am sure they have their uses 
(shelf life charge) but use nim for most things here. We cycle lots of 
AA's in walkman, electronic learning toys, etc.
Is the voltage on ni-cad highr than NIM?

Didn't you get some hibreads one holiday season, maybe before last?





On Mon, 16 Aug 2010, Lenny McHugh wrote:

> Spiro, If you use NiCad's make sure that you completely discharge completely 
> before recharging. They can develop a memory. So if you continually charge at 
> at 50% they will develop a memory and will only last 50%.
> Now my question is about hybrids. Has anyone used them and what is your 
> opinion?
> ---
> Please visit my home page, it is motivational, educational, inspirational 
> with a touch of humor. There is also a very extensive resource list for the 
> blind.
> http://www.LennyMcHugh.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?

[Spiro]

sorry that post cut short.
A board or two, or some plywood under the box spring (tape the edges of 
the plywood) could make for a sturdier bed platform.
Comparing your son's to yours is nearly worthless unless
same manufacturer
same firmness
same support design in frame
same width
etc.





On Mon, 16 Aug 2010, Claudia wrote:

> Si,
>
> I have no idea;  I'd say that it's 6 to 8 inches from the ground!
> The problem is that my other half thinks that, due to the height of the 
> frame, his back is constantly hurting.
> He tested his theory by sleeping on our son's bed, while we were out of town; 
>  he has a captain's bed, and he slept very well!
> So, this is why we're looking for a lower frame.
>
> Ours can't be lowered because it has four wheels and a stablizer bar, in the 
> middle.
>
> Claudia
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Cy Selfridge
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 8:21 AM
>  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
>
>
>
>  Claudia,
>
>  Sorry I ran across this after I posted my other response.
>
>  Now, what exactly is the problem with the current bed frame?
>
>  How high is the bottom of the box spring off of the floor currently?
>
>  Cy, The Anasazi
>
>  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
>  On Behalf Of Claudia
>  Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 2:16 PM
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
>
>  The new bed will also be a queen, with both matress & box spring.
>
>  Claudia
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Cy Selfridge
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>  Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 2:13 PM
>  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
>
>  Claudia,
>
>  First question, what size is the new bed?
>
>  Second question, what type of bed is it, matress and box springs or some
>  sort of air bed?
>
>  Cy, The Anasazi
>
>  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>   ]
>  On Behalf Of Claudia
>  Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 12:31 PM
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
>
>  Okay,
>
>  I need some explanation here.
>  We have a queen-sized bed that sits on a metal frame with wheels. The bed
>  has both its matress and box spring!
>  The headboard is what's called a bookcase style. It's the width of the bed,
>  with shelves on each side and an open space in the middle.
>  We'd like a similar set-up for the new bed.
>
>  However, we've been hunting, and this is what we've found. The beds don't
>  seem to have metal or iron frames anymore; they seem to have a wood base or
>  frame. I'm wondering if we can connect a headboard to this type of bed or
>  not?
>
>  As I said, the current frame is on wheels, so that gives the bed some
>  height; we need something that's a little lower to the ground, so it seems
>  that wood frames are the way to go. But, again, we also want this book case
>  style headboard, and they're difficult to find.
>  Walmart has one by Sauder that we can put together, and this is what I'm
>  thinking of doing.
>
>  Is it logical that you can purchase a bed frame separately from the bed
>  itself? Am I right in thinking that you can't connect headboards to wooden
>  frames? And if I'm wrong on this, how is this done? Would it be by drilling
>  holes into the frame and screwing the headboard to it?
>  I'm not sure if this is making any sense, but since I don't have any sight,
>  all of what I'm picturing here has been things that I've only been able to
>  touch!
>
>  Claudia
>
>  Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
>  
>  
>  Skype: claudiadr10
>
>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
>  database 5345 (20100805) __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
>  database 5345 (20100805) __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
>  database 5345 (20100805) __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5348 (20100806) __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
> __ Information from ESET Smar

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?

[Spiro]

I would have to say that you might need a sturdier frame, and that the 
height has 0 to do with it.





On Mon, 16 Aug 2010, Claudia wrote:

> Si,
>
> I have no idea;  I'd say that it's 6 to 8 inches from the ground!
> The problem is that my other half thinks that, due to the height of the 
> frame, his back is constantly hurting.
> He tested his theory by sleeping on our son's bed, while we were out of town; 
>  he has a captain's bed, and he slept very well!
> So, this is why we're looking for a lower frame.
>
> Ours can't be lowered because it has four wheels and a stablizer bar, in the 
> middle.
>
> Claudia
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Cy Selfridge
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 8:21 AM
>  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
>
>
>
>  Claudia,
>
>  Sorry I ran across this after I posted my other response.
>
>  Now, what exactly is the problem with the current bed frame?
>
>  How high is the bottom of the box spring off of the floor currently?
>
>  Cy, The Anasazi
>
>  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
>  On Behalf Of Claudia
>  Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 2:16 PM
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
>
>  The new bed will also be a queen, with both matress & box spring.
>
>  Claudia
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Cy Selfridge
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>  Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 2:13 PM
>  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
>
>  Claudia,
>
>  First question, what size is the new bed?
>
>  Second question, what type of bed is it, matress and box springs or some
>  sort of air bed?
>
>  Cy, The Anasazi
>
>  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>   ]
>  On Behalf Of Claudia
>  Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 12:31 PM
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
>
>  Okay,
>
>  I need some explanation here.
>  We have a queen-sized bed that sits on a metal frame with wheels. The bed
>  has both its matress and box spring!
>  The headboard is what's called a bookcase style. It's the width of the bed,
>  with shelves on each side and an open space in the middle.
>  We'd like a similar set-up for the new bed.
>
>  However, we've been hunting, and this is what we've found. The beds don't
>  seem to have metal or iron frames anymore; they seem to have a wood base or
>  frame. I'm wondering if we can connect a headboard to this type of bed or
>  not?
>
>  As I said, the current frame is on wheels, so that gives the bed some
>  height; we need something that's a little lower to the ground, so it seems
>  that wood frames are the way to go. But, again, we also want this book case
>  style headboard, and they're difficult to find.
>  Walmart has one by Sauder that we can put together, and this is what I'm
>  thinking of doing.
>
>  Is it logical that you can purchase a bed frame separately from the bed
>  itself? Am I right in thinking that you can't connect headboards to wooden
>  frames? And if I'm wrong on this, how is this done? Would it be by drilling
>  holes into the frame and screwing the headboard to it?
>  I'm not sure if this is making any sense, but since I don't have any sight,
>  all of what I'm picturing here has been things that I've only been able to
>  touch!
>
>  Claudia
>
>  Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
>  
>  
>  Skype: claudiadr10
>
>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
>  database 5345 (20100805) __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
>  database 5345 (20100805) __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
>  database 5345 (20100805) __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5348 (20100806) __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5371 (20100816) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of thi

Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries

[Spiro]

Hi,
yes, that is what I thought re: parallel.
But I've had one of those battery chargers, claiming to be different for 
alkaline cells.
It works, and my greatest fear was heat or worse.
I could get about 12 hours from 2 AA batts in a Walkman (maybe due to high 
volume requirements on city r\trains)
After the batts had run completely down, I could charge and get 2 days, 
recharge and get 1 day and then toss. I was recooping 25%. that's a day 
and a half after each 6 of use.
what's the trick?





On Sun, 15 Aug 2010, Max Robinson wrote:

> Spiro asked.
>
> explain why never parallel of the same type?
> Thanks
>
> No two cells are exactly identical and if two are connected in parallel the
> stronger one will try to charge the weaker one.  Since these cells are not
> designed to be charged this is not good even though some articles have
> reported some success in charging such cells.  If a user were to put a new
> cell next to an old cell in a place where the cells are in parallel the weak
> cell would discharge the strong cell and it would run down  prematurely.  In
> the worst case one of them could explode.  One of the laws of design is if
> it can be done someone is going to do it.  So to keep from getting sued
> cells are never connected in parallel.
>
>
> Regards.
>
> Max.  K 4 O D S.
>
> Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com
>
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>
> To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
> funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>
> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Spiro" 
> To: 
> Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2010 8:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries
>
>
>> explain why never parallel of the same type?
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, 15 Aug 2010, Max Robinson wrote:
>>
>>> Putting batteries even of the same type in parallel is a bad idea and is
>>> never done by reputable manufacturers.  Let's say the machine used 4 AA
>>> cells all in series.  If you were to use 3 alkaline cells and one ni cad
>>> the
>>> device would work because of the reserve the designers built into it.
>>> When
>>> the ni cad went flat which it almost certainly would do first the device
>>> would likely keep working on the 3 alkaline cells.  That is where the ni
>>> cad
>>> would be damaged and could even explode.
>>>
>>> Regards.
>>>
>>> Max.  K 4 O D S.
>>>
>>> Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com
>>>
>>> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
>>> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
>>> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>>>
>>> To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
>>> funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>>>
>>> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
>>> funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>>>
>>> - Original Message -
>>> From: "Spiro" 
>>> To: 
>>> Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2010 5:18 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries
>>>
>>>
>>>> that would be when in parallel right?
>>>> Thanks
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sat, 14 Aug 2010, Max Robinson wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> If you mix batteries and the rechargeable ones run down first there
>>>>> might
>>>>> be
>>>>> enough power in the others to keep the device going just enough to
>>>>> cause
>>>>> it
>>>>> to continue to be used.  If that happened the rechargeable ones could
>>>>> be
>>>>> damaged by reverse polarity.
>>>>>
>>>>> Regards.
>>>>>
>>>>> Max.  K 4 O D S.
>>>>>
>>>>> Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com
>>>>>
>>>>> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
>>>>> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
>>>>> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>>>>>
>>>>> To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
>>>>> funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>>>>>
>>>>> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an emai

Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries

[Spiro]

explain why never parallel of the same type?
Thanks





On Sun, 15 Aug 2010, Max Robinson wrote:

> Putting batteries even of the same type in parallel is a bad idea and is
> never done by reputable manufacturers.  Let's say the machine used 4 AA
> cells all in series.  If you were to use 3 alkaline cells and one ni cad the
> device would work because of the reserve the designers built into it.  When
> the ni cad went flat which it almost certainly would do first the device
> would likely keep working on the 3 alkaline cells.  That is where the ni cad
> would be damaged and could even explode.
>
> Regards.
>
> Max.  K 4 O D S.
>
> Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com
>
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>
> To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
> funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>
> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Spiro" 
> To: 
> Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2010 5:18 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries
>
>
>> that would be when in parallel right?
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, 14 Aug 2010, Max Robinson wrote:
>>
>>> If you mix batteries and the rechargeable ones run down first there might
>>> be
>>> enough power in the others to keep the device going just enough to cause
>>> it
>>> to continue to be used.  If that happened the rechargeable ones could be
>>> damaged by reverse polarity.
>>>
>>> Regards.
>>>
>>> Max.  K 4 O D S.
>>>
>>> Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com
>>>
>>> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
>>> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
>>> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>>>
>>> To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
>>> funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>>>
>>> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
>>> funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>>>
>>> - Original Message -
>>> From: "Spiro" 
>>> To: 
>>> Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 5:17 PM
>>> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] batteries
>>>
>>>
>>>> okay, Tom or someone explain this to me:
>>>>
>>>> a toy my kid just got says this:
>>>>
>>>> do not mix *alkaline, *standard, or *rechargable batteries
>>>> do not use *rechargable batteries.
>>>>
>>>> It's a motor, that tosses little sponge ring 30 feet.
>>>> It's like a semi-auto with the magazine above instead of below.
>>>> So why ot mix, to start, and what reason not to use rechargables for the
>>>> 2
>>>> AA needed?
>>>>
>>>> I've mixed batteries before.
>>>> What should I have noticed?
>>>> I have a dozen rechargable AA and have placed a tiny piece of scotch
>>>> tape
>>>> on each one so I don't toss them out.
>>>> Even though it doesn't save actual energy it saves the containers
>>>> constant
>>>> disposal.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 
>>>>
>>>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>>>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>>>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>>>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>>>> Or
>>>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>>>
>>>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>>>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>>>
>>>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>>>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>>>
>>>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>>>> list just send a blank message to:
>>>> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>> Or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>> list just send a blank message to:
>> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries

[Spiro]

sure, so the size names are just physical measurement.
So it's more a AA is length and width than
like a gallon (as in) holding given quantity.





On Sun, 15 Aug 2010, Max Robinson wrote:

> The voltage of a cell is set by the laws of chemistry not by any design
> decision.
>
> Regards.
>
> Max.  K 4 O D S.
>
> Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com
>
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>
> To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
> funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>
> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Spiro" 
> To: 
> Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2010 7:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries
>
>
>> well that sure doesn't make sense.
>> they are duplicating a AA not inventing some new size.
>> wonder why, guess in the old days it would have been tough to get that
>> many parts into that size to reach the mark.
>> but ow we should surely have the ability, but they cheese cause they can?
>> But that's like 2x4 isn't it?
>> I can't respect it.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, 15 Aug 2010, Alan Paganelli wrote:
>>
>>> Rechargibles are only 1.2V rather then 1.5V
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
>>> There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
>>> the Yamaha Tyros keyboard.  I often add files so check back regularly!
>>>
>>> The albums in Technics  format formerly on my website are still
>>> available upon request.
>>>
>>> - Original Message -
>>> From: 
>>> To: 
>>> Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 4:53 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries
>>>
>>>
>>>> don't they pass through it along?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sat, 14 Aug 2010, David Ferrin wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> If memory serves me correctly alkaline batteries are parasitic meaning
>>>>> they
>>>>> will drain the other batteries of their charge.
>>>>> David Ferrin
>>>>> www.jaws-users.com
>>>>> Life is what happens after you have already made other plans.
>>>>> - Original Message -
>>>>> From: "Spiro" 
>>>>> To: 
>>>>> Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 6:17 PM
>>>>> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] batteries
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> okay, Tom or someone explain this to me:
>>>>>
>>>>> a toy my kid just got says this:
>>>>>
>>>>> do not mix *alkaline, *standard, or *rechargable batteries
>>>>> do not use *rechargable batteries.
>>>>>
>>>>> It's a motor, that tosses little sponge ring 30 feet.
>>>>> It's like a semi-auto with the magazine above instead of below.
>>>>> So why ot mix, to start, and what reason not to use rechargables for
>>>>> the
>>>>> 2
>>>>> AA needed?
>>>>>
>>>>> I've mixed batteries before.
>>>>> What should I have noticed?
>>>>> I have a dozen rechargable AA and have placed a tiny piece of scotch
>>>>> tape
>>>>> on each one so I don't toss them out.
>>>>> Even though it doesn't save actual energy it saves the containers
>>>>> constant
>>>>> disposal.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 
>>>>>
>>>>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>>>>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>>>>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>>>>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>>>>> Or
>>>>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>>>>
>>>>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>>>>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>>>>
>>>>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>>>>> ht

Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries

[Spiro]

well that sure doesn't make sense.
they are duplicating a AA not inventing some new size.
wonder why, guess in the old days it would have been tough to get that 
many parts into that size to reach the mark.
but ow we should surely have the ability, but they cheese cause they can?
But that's like 2x4 isn't it?
I can't respect it.





On Sun, 15 Aug 2010, Alan Paganelli wrote:

> Rechargibles are only 1.2V rather then 1.5V
>
> Alan
>
> Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
> There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
> the Yamaha Tyros keyboard.  I often add files so check back regularly!
>
> The albums in Technics  format formerly on my website are still
> available upon request.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 4:53 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries
>
>
>> don't they pass through it along?
>>
>>
>> On Sat, 14 Aug 2010, David Ferrin wrote:
>>
>>> If memory serves me correctly alkaline batteries are parasitic meaning
>>> they
>>> will drain the other batteries of their charge.
>>> David Ferrin
>>> www.jaws-users.com
>>> Life is what happens after you have already made other plans.
>>> - Original Message -
>>> From: "Spiro" 
>>> To: 
>>> Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 6:17 PM
>>> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] batteries
>>>
>>>
>>> okay, Tom or someone explain this to me:
>>>
>>> a toy my kid just got says this:
>>>
>>> do not mix *alkaline, *standard, or *rechargable batteries
>>> do not use *rechargable batteries.
>>>
>>> It's a motor, that tosses little sponge ring 30 feet.
>>> It's like a semi-auto with the magazine above instead of below.
>>> So why ot mix, to start, and what reason not to use rechargables for the
>>> 2
>>> AA needed?
>>>
>>> I've mixed batteries before.
>>> What should I have noticed?
>>> I have a dozen rechargable AA and have placed a tiny piece of scotch tape
>>> on each one so I don't toss them out.
>>> Even though it doesn't save actual energy it saves the containers
>>> constant
>>> disposal.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>>> Or
>>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>>
>>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>>
>>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>>
>>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>>> list
>>> just send a blank message to:
>>> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>> Or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>> list just send a blank message to:
>> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries

[Spiro]

that would be when in parallel right?
Thanks





On Sat, 14 Aug 2010, Max Robinson wrote:

> If you mix batteries and the rechargeable ones run down first there might be
> enough power in the others to keep the device going just enough to cause it
> to continue to be used.  If that happened the rechargeable ones could be
> damaged by reverse polarity.
>
> Regards.
>
> Max.  K 4 O D S.
>
> Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com
>
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>
> To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
> funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>
> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Spiro" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 5:17 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] batteries
>
>
>> okay, Tom or someone explain this to me:
>>
>> a toy my kid just got says this:
>>
>> do not mix *alkaline, *standard, or *rechargable batteries
>> do not use *rechargable batteries.
>>
>> It's a motor, that tosses little sponge ring 30 feet.
>> It's like a semi-auto with the magazine above instead of below.
>> So why ot mix, to start, and what reason not to use rechargables for the 2
>> AA needed?
>>
>> I've mixed batteries before.
>> What should I have noticed?
>> I have a dozen rechargable AA and have placed a tiny piece of scotch tape
>> on each one so I don't toss them out.
>> Even though it doesn't save actual energy it saves the containers constant
>> disposal.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>> Or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>> list just send a blank message to:
>> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries

[Spiro]

Thanks Tom.
Never noticed a problem, but don't want to. thanks





On Sat, 14 Aug 2010, Tom Fowle wrote:

> spiro
> You shouldn't mix battery types because both there voltage and internal
> resistance differ between types.
> Thus the load placed on each cell will not be ballanced and one cell in a
> mixed pack can discharge before others.  this can cause excess heating in
> some cells, particularly with devices that draw signifficant power like
> anything with a motor.
>
> The best that can be said is that you won't get decent battery life with a
> mixed pack, the worst might be hot cells or even explosions.
>
> As for why a device might say not to use rechargables, 2 ideas, 1. any
> battery sensor that tells you when batteries are low won't work correctly
> with rechargables unless it knows to do so.  This because rechargables have
> different voltages.
>
> 2. since most rechargables have lower internal resistances than alcaline
> cells, much more current can be drawn from rechargables.  It is possible
> some device might draw so much current as to get cells hot if not designed
> with proper current limiting circuits.
>
> So be good and do it right, you'll get better battery life and less
> excitement.
>
> tom Fowle
>
> OnSat, Aug 14, 2010 at 06:17:11PM -0400, Spiro wrote:
>> okay, Tom or someone explain this to me:
>>
>> a toy my kid just got says this:
>>
>> do not mix *alkaline, *standard, or *rechargable batteries
>> do not use *rechargable batteries.
>>
>> It's a motor, that tosses little sponge ring 30 feet.
>> It's like a semi-auto with the magazine above instead of below.
>> So why ot mix, to start, and what reason not to use rechargables for the 2
>> AA needed?
>>
>> I've mixed batteries before.
>> What should I have noticed?
>> I have a dozen rechargable AA and have placed a tiny piece of scotch tape
>> on each one so I don't toss them out.
>> Even though it doesn't save actual energy it saves the containers constant
>> disposal.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries

[spiro]

maybe a lower ma rating?
I seem to remember numbers like 1650 and 1550.


On Sat, 14 Aug 2010, chiliblindman wrote:

> most rechargable batteries are not the same voltage, most are rated at a 
> lower voltage and will not operate certain items and can damage unit
> ..bob
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries

[spiro]

don't they pass through it along?


On Sat, 14 Aug 2010, David Ferrin wrote:

> If memory serves me correctly alkaline batteries are parasitic meaning they
> will drain the other batteries of their charge.
> David Ferrin
> www.jaws-users.com
> Life is what happens after you have already made other plans.
> - Original Message -
> From: "Spiro" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 6:17 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] batteries
>
>
> okay, Tom or someone explain this to me:
>
> a toy my kid just got says this:
>
> do not mix *alkaline, *standard, or *rechargable batteries
> do not use *rechargable batteries.
>
> It's a motor, that tosses little sponge ring 30 feet.
> It's like a semi-auto with the magazine above instead of below.
> So why ot mix, to start, and what reason not to use rechargables for the 2
> AA needed?
>
> I've mixed batteries before.
> What should I have noticed?
> I have a dozen rechargable AA and have placed a tiny piece of scotch tape
> on each one so I don't toss them out.
> Even though it doesn't save actual energy it saves the containers constant
> disposal.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
> just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] A sanding idea

[Spiro]

I've strapped my Makita on it's roof onto an old console TV caginet I use 
for supply storage. Yours has the benie of the angle of the guide 
platform, which might be set to change angle for precision
Fun when it throws one of those little pieces isn't it?
Use medium or fine, unless careful, as course feels like  a hammer blow 
till ya notice the flat spot on your fingertip.
Hope you bolted it in a way that the belt change mechanism is easy to 
operate. I find that changing belts while it is slowing down, and while it 
gets a bit of zip makes them go on smoother.




On Thu, 12 Aug 2010, Tom Vos wrote:

> I've enjoyed my belt sander for a long time.  But it doesn't work well for
> small stuff, or long thin strips.
>
> So I built a platform on which I can mount the sander on its side, and
> clamped down with a couple long bolts, wing nuts and a bar over the top.
>
> I have a platform that I can raise and  lower a bit in front of the belt.
>
> I've designed mine to fit on top of my router stand.  I can easily take it
> off and store it away.
>
> This makes some sanding chores much easier, and allows me to remove quite a
> bit of material from small pieces when necessary.
>
> Blessings,
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

RE: [BlindHandyMan] "Easy to Assemble! Takes only 20 minutes"

[Spiro]

when mine was a tot, I put metal storm door screen onto the bottom of one 
of those kiddy flinstone cars. "walk feet and move car". It was a dune 
buggy with roll bars and rather high walled at that. She could sit in 
there and I'd use ropes attached to decorative lugs (but they were molded 
of the heavy pvc) and by turning my wrist I could steer it while walking 
with my cane in the other hand. We used to go for long rides. On down hill 
I could jog a bit if I knew the path, but just stop it with the claf 
muscle as a bumper.





On Sat, 7 Aug 2010, William Stephan wrote:

> Lenny:  I remember those pedal cars, though I never had one.  We use do
> steal your sister's roller skates, which were metal then, and screw thm to
> each end of a 8 x 1 plank.  Then we'd mount a wooden crate on the front and
> put handles on it.  It was a great scooter and roared like a jet on
> concrete.  Maybe all the children have segways these days, I don't know.
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
> Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 14:04
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] "Easy to Assemble! Takes only 20 minutes"
>
>
>
>
>
> Some great memories of Christmas Eve. Still, there will never be a
> replacement for the old individual owned hardware/toy stores. When I was old
>
> enough to help assemble toys for my younger brothers and sisters there was
> one hardware store from which my parents purchased everything. There was
> more than one year where putting something together we discovered that there
>
> was a missing part. I remember my dad calling the owner at 1 or 2 in the
> morning. Fran would say drive out the parts will be in a bag at the side
> door. He did that for everyone not just my dad. With support like that
> everyone that we knew only purchased from Saures' hardware. I sure do miss
> that store. Around 1960 we put two Scat cars together for my brothers.
> These were peddle cars that now remind you of a go-cart. Sure wish we still
> had them, last week on the History Channel there was a program about
> antiques. These cars now sell from $1,200 to $1,500.
> --
> From: "Alan Paganelli"   >
> Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 2:43 PM
> To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
>>
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] "Easy to Assemble! Takes only 20 minutes"
>
>> LLOL! when I was married to my first wife, we bought a tricycle for her.
>> All I got was a box of metal parts and on the box it said "Easy to
>> Assemble!
>> Takes only 20 minutes" More like 20 days! There I am on Christmas Eve On
>> the back of the tricycle were 2 steps to get up to the plastic seat. The
>> holes for the second step were missing I mean not even there so here I am
>> with only a power drill and the damn tricycle made of steal. There was
>> some
>> other toy to assemble as well. I don't remember what it was but I
>> finished
>> the job about 5 minutes before my 3 year old daughter woke up and ready
>> for
>> some serious Christmas present opening. I remember she was very happy
>> with
>> her bike and road it all over the house that morning. I think every body
>> who has kids has at least one story like that. I was so torked off that
>> the
>> damn holes weren't even there and the second step was actually a
>> reinforcement peace as well so I couldn't just leave it off.
>>
>> There was a swing set that Suzanne bought for the kids at Toys are us. I
>> couldn't see what it looked like because I didn't go with her so she says
>> I'll read the instructions to you over the phone if you get stuck. You've
>> seen swing sets before. How hard can it be to put a kids swing set
>> together. LOL! It took me 4 days but in the end, there were 3 A-frame
>> supports, 2 regular seats, a trapeze, a sea saw and a 4 kid glider plus a
>> slide attached to one of the A-Frames. I think my oldest was almost 20
>> when
>> that swing set got pitched. Every kid in 2 miles had played on it at one
>> time or another. There were ruts in the ground from kids shoes and that's
>> some trick in the desert where the ground is as hard as concrete.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
>> There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
>> the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!
>>
>> The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
>> available upon request.
>>
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "Cy Selfridge"   >
>> To:   >
>> Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 7:00 AM
>> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
>>
>>
>>> Alan,
>>>
>>> My good friend, let me tell you a very short tale of woe about assembling
>>> items.
>>>
>>> One Christmas we purchased a doll stroller for our daughte

Re: [BlindHandyMan] "Easy to Assemble! Takes only 20 minutes"

[Spiro]

yeah, that stuff isn't the "count the holes count the screws and divide by 
type" we're used to with furnature assembly.
but it's worth it enough that we'd do it again.
I just had to study hand brakes, with the pieces in my hand as one of them 
was locking up and made it hard for the little one to pedal.
Okay, so what's next?





On Sat, 7 Aug 2010, Alan Paganelli wrote:

> LLOL! when I was married to my first wife, we bought a tricycle for her.
> All I got was a box of metal parts and on the box it said "Easy to Assemble!
> Takes only 20 minutes"  More like 20 days!  There I am on Christmas Eve On
> the back of the tricycle were 2 steps to get up to the plastic seat.  The
> holes for the second step were missing I mean not even there so here I am
> with only a power drill and the damn tricycle made of steal.  There was some
> other toy to assemble as well.  I don't remember what it was but I finished
> the job about 5 minutes before my 3 year old daughter woke up and ready for
> some serious Christmas present opening.  I remember she was very happy with
> her bike and road it all over the house that morning.  I think every body
> who has kids has at least one story like that.  I was so torked off that the
> damn holes weren't even there and the second step was actually a
> reinforcement peace as well so I couldn't just leave it off.
>
> There was a swing set that Suzanne bought for the kids at Toys are us.  I
> couldn't see what it looked like because I didn't go with her so she says
> I'll read the instructions to you over the phone if you get stuck.  You've
> seen swing sets before.  How hard can it be to put a kids swing set
> together.  LOL!  It took me 4 days but in the end, there were 3 A-frame
> supports, 2 regular seats, a trapeze, a sea saw and a 4 kid glider plus a
> slide attached to one of the A-Frames.  I think my oldest was almost 20 when
> that swing set got pitched.  Every kid in 2 miles had played on it at one
> time or another.  There were ruts in the ground from kids shoes and that's
> some trick in the desert where the ground is as hard as concrete.
>
> Alan
>
> Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
> There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
> the Yamaha Tyros keyboard.  I often add files so check back regularly!
>
> The albums in Technics  format formerly on my website are still
> available upon request.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Cy Selfridge" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 7:00 AM
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
>
>
>> Alan,
>>
>> My good friend, let me tell you a very short tale of woe about assembling
>> items.
>>
>> One Christmas we purchased a doll stroller for our daughter and it
>> *CLEARLY*
>> stated that "simple household tools required". Now, that is one of the
>> most
>> deceptive and misleading statements which could be used by any purveyor of
>> goods. (LOLLOLLOL)
>>
>> We did see the finished product at Toys Are Us so we felt confident that
>> success would be forthcoming.
>>
>> Much to our (particularly mine) dismay nothing quite lined up correctly.
>> Of
>> course, it was Christmas Even when this discovery was made. Fortunately I
>> still had a tap and dye set and could make holes where holes needed to be.
>> It took about 4 hours and quite a bit of Wild Turkey to assemble the
>> wonderful little thing and I do not think "wonderful" was one of the words
>> I
>> used to describe it. (LOLLOLLOL)
>>
>> Cy, The Anasazi
>>
>>
>>
>> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
>> On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli
>> Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 7:28 AM
>> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Claudia,
>>
>> We have a metal bed frame that is standard or queen. The queen is 6 inches
>> wider then the standard with 3 inches on a side and the length is the
>> same.
>> Where the head board would be on the frame isa plate with holes in it.
>> This
>> plate holds the box spring esembly from shooting off the other end. When
>> you buy a head board, there are holes in it that line up with those holes
>> on
>>
>> the plate and hold the head board firmly in place. You can move the bed
>> for
>> cleaning because the plates on either side hold the head board up off the
>> floor a bit so you can move it.
>>
>> Some frames can be adjusted to standard or queen. Others are queen and can
>> be adjusted to king but the most popular size is queen.
>>
>> The kind of head board your talking about from Wal-Mart should mention in
>> the add what size bed it fits. If you have a queen, then make sure you get
>> a queen etc. Putting them together is childs play. If I can see what it
>> looks like, I can put it together. My wife and I will go down to the store
>> and she'll show me what she wants. I'll look it over real good and when we
>> get it home, I can put most things together and the ones I have trouble
>> 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?

[Spiro]

bet you could call
1800 mattres (leave off the last s for savings) and ask them for the 
standard metal frame.





On Fri, 6 Aug 2010, Claudia wrote:

> Okay,
>
> So, here is the latest thinking on this.
> When we truly look at the whole bed, we don't think that the mattress and box 
> spring need to be replaced.
> They seem to be in very good condition.
> So, we're thinking of ordering the headboard that I mentioned from
> www.walmart.com
> and then, buying a frame once we know what to expect, in terms of the 
> headboard's set-up!
>
> Can you purchase just the frames, whether they be metal or wooden, relatively 
> easily?  Will furniture stores sell just frames?
>
> Claudia
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 1:46 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
>
>
>
>  Aloha Claudia,
>  You can purchase just a frame by itself. Some
>  metal frames have adjustable height. The legs are
>  kind of telescoping. The trick with those is to get them level.
>
>  Some of the wooden frames I have seen already
>  have holes that are supposed to be able to be used to connect to a headboard.
>  Betsy
>  At 08:31 AM 8/6/2010, you wrote:
>  >
>  >
>  >Okay,
>  >
>  >I need some explanation here.
>  >We have a queen-sized bed that sits on a metal
>  >frame with wheels. The bed has both its matress and box spring!
>  >The headboard is what's called a bookcase style.
>  >It's the width of the bed, with shelves on each
>  >side and an open space in the middle.
>  >We'd like a similar set-up for the new bed.
>  >
>  >However, we've been hunting, and this is what
>  >we've found. The beds don't seem to have metal
>  >or iron frames anymore; they seem to have a wood
>  >base or frame. I'm wondering if we can connect a
>  >headboard to this type of bed or not?
>  >
>  >As I said, the current frame is on wheels, so
>  >that gives the bed some height; we need
>  >something that's a little lower to the ground,
>  >so it seems that wood frames are the way to go.
>  >But, again, we also want this book case style
>  >headboard, and they're difficult to find.
>  >Walmart has one by Sauder that we can put
>  >together, and this is what I'm thinking of doing.
>  >
>  >Is it logical that you can purchase a bed frame
>  >separately from the bed itself? Am I right in
>  >thinking that you can't connect headboards to
>  >wooden frames? And if I'm wrong on this, how is
>  >this done? Would it be by drilling holes into
>  >the frame and screwing the headboard to it?
>  >I'm not sure if this is making any sense, but
>  >since I don't have any sight, all of what I'm
>  >picturing here has been things that I've only been able to touch!
>  >
>  >Claudia
>  >
>  >Windows Messenger:
>  >cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
>  >Skype: claudiadr10
>  >
>  >__ Information from ESET Smart Security,
>  >version of virus signature database 5345 (20100805) __
>  >
>  >The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>  >
>  >http://www.eset.com
>  >
>  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>  >
>  >
>
>
>
>
>
>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5345 (20100805) __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5345 (20100805) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?

[Spiro]

but if you lower it you'll not be able to get as wide a variety of things 
under it.





On Fri, 6 Aug 2010, Claudia wrote:

> Scott,
>
> How do you move the bed, if you guys want to clean there?
> With the current grame, we can just wheel it from one side of the room to
> the other because there's enough room.
> That way, we can get under it!
> I'm just trying to think of all the possible things we may run into.
>
> Claudia
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Scott Howell" 
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 1:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
>
>
>> Claudia,
>>
>> My wife and I had a similar headboard and we did not need to connect it to
>> the bed. It pretty much could stand on its own and the bed kept it pretty
>> much from ever moving. So, if your headboard can stand more or less own
>> its own, you may not have to worry about connecting it.
>>
>> On Aug 6, 2010, at 2:31 PM, Claudia wrote:
>>
>>> Okay,
>>>
>>> I need some explanation here.
>>> We have a queen-sized bed that sits on a metal frame with wheels. The bed
>>> has both its matress and box spring!
>>> The headboard is what's called a bookcase style. It's the width of the
>>> bed, with shelves on each side and an open space in the middle.
>>> We'd like a similar set-up for the new bed.
>>>
>>> However, we've been hunting, and this is what we've found. The beds don't
>>> seem to have metal or iron frames anymore; they seem to have a wood base
>>> or frame. I'm wondering if we can connect a headboard to this type of bed
>>> or not?
>>>
>>> As I said, the current frame is on wheels, so that gives the bed some
>>> height; we need something that's a little lower to the ground, so it
>>> seems that wood frames are the way to go. But, again, we also want this
>>> book case style headboard, and they're difficult to find.
>>> Walmart has one by Sauder that we can put together, and this is what I'm
>>> thinking of doing.
>>>
>>> Is it logical that you can purchase a bed frame separately from the bed
>>> itself? Am I right in thinking that you can't connect headboards to
>>> wooden frames? And if I'm wrong on this, how is this done? Would it be by
>>> drilling holes into the frame and screwing the headboard to it?
>>> I'm not sure if this is making any sense, but since I don't have any
>>> sight, all of what I'm picturing here has been things that I've only been
>>> able to touch!
>>>
>>> Claudia
>>>
>>> Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
>>> Skype: claudiadr10
>>>
>>> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
>>> signature database 5345 (20100805) __
>>>
>>> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>>>
>>> http://www.eset.com
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>> Or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>> list just send a blank message to:
>> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
>> signature database 5345 (20100805) __
>>
>> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>>
>> http://www.eset.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5345 (20100805) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?

[Spiro]

or good brackets could keep you from having to drill and bolt through the 
frame.





On Fri, 6 Aug 2010, Scott Howell wrote:

> Claudia,
>
> My wife and I had a similar headboard and we did not need to connect it to 
> the bed. It pretty much could stand on its own and the bed kept it pretty 
> much from ever moving. So, if your headboard can stand more or less own its 
> own, you may not have to worry about connecting it.
>
> On Aug 6, 2010, at 2:31 PM, Claudia wrote:
>
>> Okay,
>>
>> I need some explanation here.
>> We have a queen-sized bed that sits on a metal frame with wheels. The bed 
>> has both its matress and box spring!
>> The headboard is what's called a bookcase style. It's the width of the bed, 
>> with shelves on each side and an open space in the middle.
>> We'd like a similar set-up for the new bed.
>>
>> However, we've been hunting, and this is what we've found. The beds don't 
>> seem to have metal or iron frames anymore; they seem to have a wood base or 
>> frame. I'm wondering if we can connect a headboard to this type of bed or 
>> not?
>>
>> As I said, the current frame is on wheels, so that gives the bed some 
>> height; we need something that's a little lower to the ground, so it seems 
>> that wood frames are the way to go. But, again, we also want this book case 
>> style headboard, and they're difficult to find.
>> Walmart has one by Sauder that we can put together, and this is what I'm 
>> thinking of doing.
>>
>> Is it logical that you can purchase a bed frame separately from the bed 
>> itself? Am I right in thinking that you can't connect headboards to wooden 
>> frames? And if I'm wrong on this, how is this done? Would it be by drilling 
>> holes into the frame and screwing the headboard to it?
>> I'm not sure if this is making any sense, but since I don't have any sight, 
>> all of what I'm picturing here has been things that I've only been able to 
>> touch!
>>
>> Claudia
>>
>> Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
>> Skype: claudiadr10
>>
>> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
>> database 5345 (20100805) __
>>
>> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>>
>> http://www.eset.com
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
> just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?

[Spiro]

what causes the lessened height requirement?
any way around that?
Most of your answers are "yes".
Like almost anything you can mix and match.
the width is the most important item, as long as it's wide enough and not 
more or less you can match it up just fine.





On Fri, 6 Aug 2010, Claudia wrote:

> Okay,
>
> I need some explanation here.
> We have a queen-sized bed that sits on a metal frame with wheels.  The bed 
> has both its matress and box spring!
> The headboard is what's called a bookcase style.  It's the width of the bed, 
> with shelves on each side and an open space in the middle.
> We'd like a similar set-up for the new bed.
>
> However, we've been hunting, and this is what we've found.  The beds don't 
> seem to have metal or iron frames anymore; they seem to have a wood base or 
> frame.  I'm wondering if we can connect a headboard to this type of bed or 
> not?
>
> As I said, the current frame is on wheels, so that gives the bed some height; 
>  we need something that's a little lower to the ground, so it seems that wood 
> frames are the way to go.  But, again, we also want this book case style 
> headboard, and they're difficult to find.
> Walmart has one by Sauder that we can put together, and this is what I'm 
> thinking of doing.
>
> Is it logical that you can purchase a bed frame separately from the bed 
> itself?  Am I right in thinking that you can't connect headboards to wooden 
> frames?  And if I'm wrong on this, how is this done?  Would it be by drilling 
> holes into the frame and screwing the headboard to it?
> I'm not sure if this is making any sense, but since I don't have any sight, 
> all of what I'm picturing here has been things that I've only been able to 
> touch!
>
> Claudia
>
>
>
> Windows Messenger:  cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
> Skype:  claudiadr10
>
>
> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5345 (20100805) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

[Spiro]

make it a laundry shoot. :)





On Tue, 3 Aug 2010, Alan & Terrie Robbins wrote:

> Dan,
>
> Boy you guys are sure busy with that palace.
>
> Regarding the chimney, I'm sure anything can be done. I know there has been
> a fair response to this post but part of the answer may be in cost. How much
> would it cost to beef up the floor to support the remainder versus just
> taking it out? Also, by only removing part with that cause further
> deterioration of the remainder with time? Which room does the chimney go
> through on the second floor and what issues would that raise in removing? I
> think there is a lot to consider with this type thing. Often it leads to
> things not even contemplated up front.
> Keep us posted on this.
>
>
> Al
>  -Original Message-
>  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
>  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:14 PM
>  To: Blind Handyman List
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney
>
>
>
>  We have begun interviewing contractors to remodel our kitchen. One issue
>  we have been working around is that there is a chimney running from the
>  basement, up through the kitchen, and on up through the second floor and
>  roof, obviously. The hot water tank that had been venting through that
>  chimney has been moved, so nothing is actually using the chimney any more.
>
>  Our plan is to expose the brick of the chimney, it has been plastered over
>  possibly since it was built, 80 years ago. However, the first contractor
>  we spoke to asked if we had considered removing that part of the chimney
>  to just get it out of the way. I told him that I had thought of it, but
>  didn't think it would be possible to remove the middle of a chimney. I
>  mean, I assume those things are a tad bit heavy. This contractor implied
>  that he could remove the middle of the chimney and still support the upper
>  part from the ceiling joists.
>
>  Does this sound realistic?
>
>  --
>  Blue skies.
>  Dan Rossi
>  Carnegie Mellon University.
>  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
>  Tel: (412) 268-9081
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump

[Spiro]

you can even hire a collection agency to do the work for you.





On Mon, 2 Aug 2010, Alan Paganelli wrote:

> Yeah they do.  We just spent good money here.  There is a "utility pedestal"
> which sits on a concrete pad outside.  The pedestal exists exclusively to
> hold up the electric meter.  The power company insists it's our
> responsibility to replace it as the old one rusted out and was ready to fall
> over.  My question was how the hell could it rust out in the desert but they
> didn't see the humor in it.  The pole was 1200 plus another grand for a new
> concrete pad.  I am strongly considering sending them a bill every month for
> rental.  They probably won't pay for it but I can hassle them with it and
> hopefully stop that ripping off the public.
>
> Alan
>
> Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
> There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
> the Yamaha Tyros keyboard.  I often add files so check back regularly!
>
> The albums in Technics  format formerly on my website are still
> available upon request.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Scott Howell" 
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 2:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
>
>
>> Hey Alan,
>>
>> I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do not
>> want to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will have
>> to do something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this plastic
>> thing the unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any longer.
>>
>> On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:
>>
>>> The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It depends
>>> on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be better
>>> off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just
>>> get a
>>> new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you
>>> probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing
>>> the
>>> right way.
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
>>> There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
>>> the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!
>>>
>>> The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
>>> available upon request.
>>>
>>> - Original Message -
>>> From: "Scott Howell" 
>>> To: 
>>> Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 4:21 PM
>>> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
>>>
 Hi folks,

 Well I am going to finally get around to doing something about my heat
 pump. THe one suggestion someone gave was to pull the unit off the pad,
 remove the existing pad, put some pipes in the ground with concrete,
 and
 set the pad on the pipes. THis would help keep the unit level. Of
 course
 this requires the unit be pumped down and I would have to have a
 contractor come out and remove and reinstall the unit.
 I am trying to determine if there is any other way of doing this beyond
 moving the unit around to the side of the house. THe only issue there
 is
 it would be exposed to the sun all year round, which may not matter,
 but
 the HVAC contractor that fixed it recently stated in so many words it
 is
 better to protect it from the sun if possible.
 The problem I am dealing with is the yard slopes and the ground is
 slowly
 eroding and causing the unit to become off balance. I doubt it would be
 easy to dig under the pad while the unit is sitting on it and jack it
 up
 enough to really get under there and build up the ground. However,
 perhaps
 it is possible and any thoughts appreciated.

 THanks,

 

 Send any questions regarding list management to:
 blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
 Or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
 list just send a blank message to:
 blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links




>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>> Or
>> ftp://ftp

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

[Spiro]

our copper is developing pinholes. Had to have the 4th stretch replaced 
now.
1957 home.
We have flex line to the toilets and my dog has stopped trying to drink 
from there.




On Thu, 29 Jul 2010, Blaine Deutscher wrote:

> does copper piping have a diffferent taste to the water then plastic pipes
> do? I find for myself that if you have a house with an older version of taps
> that the water doesn't taste as good compared to the new taps that are being
> installed in housing today. I know though that the plastic pipes in cold
> weather does burst but a lot of apartments are putting plastic piping in the
> house under sinks and what not because the other stuff is starting to rust.
> Does anyone know the life expectincy of copper piping verses PVC pipe? Would
> be interesting to learn how much longer it lasts and if it's the same. Talk
> to you later.
>
> Blaine
> - Original Message -
> From: Alan Paganelli
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 11:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet
>
>
>
> Yeah, we had the hole house re piped 2 or 3 years back. The old PCV pipes
> were starting to burst and crack. As I understood it, the company who
> manufactured the pipe went out of business about 20 years ago or so said the
> plumber who did the job for us. Of course we changed everything over to
> copper but never even thought of the faucets to the outside but crawling
> under the house and having a look-see showed me it wouldn't be any big deal
> to change it myself. Where the plastic lines connect to the copper, the
> fittings are copper and there is a plastic screw fitting on the end of the
> plastic pipe so all that would need to be done is just to unscrew the
> plastic screw fitting on the plastic stuff and just replace it with copper
> fittings and pipe. I might have to use a torch to put the fittings on the
> copper lines but that can be done. Well, if I get the guy next door to do
> it for me. He did his house too.
>
> Alan
>
> Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
> There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
> the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!
>
> The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
> available upon request.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Alan & Terrie Robbins" 
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 10:29 AM
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet
>
>> Alan,
>>
>> Thanks for your thoughts. I have copper running throughout including to
>> outside.Hoping there are other options other than gluing faucet to Pex as
>> that part will be in the wall and not easy to fix if a leak occurs.
>>
>> Al
>> -Original Message-
>> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>> [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Alan Paganelli
>> Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 1:11 PM
>> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet
>>
>>
>>
>> I just changed my outside water faucets a few months back. Their made of
>> some kind of plastic now and they just glue in place onto Pex pipe. The
>> job
>> took about 5 minutes. We have PVC pipe to the outside faucets. I used a
>> hacksaw to cut off the old brass ones, cleaned up the end of the pipe and
>> then found my plastic pipe cutter so the other one went even quicker.
>>
>> HTH
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
>> There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
>> the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!
>>
>> The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
>> available upon request.
>>
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "Alan & Terrie Robbins" 
>> To: 
>> Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 9:52 AM
>> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet
>>
>>> RJ,
>>>
>>> Thanks. So to make sure I understand this here is my current and
>> proposed
>>> situation.
>>>
>>> I have an old faucet mounded on the bottom row of siding on the outside
>> of
>>> my house. It is threaded on to a standard fitting that was soldered to
>>> standard half inch copper pipe. Fortunately, there is a shut off in the
>>> basement for this run. I want to relocate this to the back side of the
>>> house as we are getting new siding put on and I want to extend the deck
>> in
>>> conjunction with this project. Of course you can guess that the water
>>> outlet
>>> is right where the deck board will bo against the house. Anyway, if I
>>> understand you correctly above I can simply get a new faucet, length of
>>> Pex,
>>> and a shark bite fitting? In your case, did the faucet come pre
>> connected
>>> to
>>> the length of Pex or does it simply slide on?-Original Message-
>>>
>>> thanks,
>>> Al
>>>
>>> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>>> [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
>>> Behalf Of RJ
>>> Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 11:52 AM
>>> To: blindhan

Re: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth?

[Spiro]

peers? You mean a jury of crash test dummies.
"take out the air bags we like the bouncing! wee!"




On Sat, 24 Jul 2010, Bob Kennedy wrote:

> A jury is supposed to be made up of 12 of your piers.  So there should have 
> been 12 woodworkers on the jury and they'd have finished the case in a day.
>
> I like the idea of having to pay legal costs if you lose.  Adds some extra 
> consideration before finding a slick attorney and filing papers.
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Cy Selfridge
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 6:18 PM
>  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth?
>
>
>
>  Bob,
>
>  I could not agree with you more. These idiot law suits should be illegal
>  and, furthermore, when the plaintiff looses I am not sure that he should not
>  have to pay the legal costs involved in the defense. Man, that sure would
>  slow down some folks who know that it will cost the company or other person
>  a whole lot to defend themselves even though the case may be hopeless.
>
>  You are also correct, even if the saw had all of the available safety
>  equipment on it the moron would probably have disabled it as well. How the
>  Dickens did that goof win the case?
>
>  Cy, The anasazi
>
>  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
>  On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
>  Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 3:47 PM
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth?
>
>  This is truly a disgusting reflection on the legal system.
>
>  To reward some idiot for disabling any safety features that were available
>  is crazy.
>  I've researched this case for an article I am helping write for another list
>  I'm on. For those that don't know the details, here are the important ones.
>
>  The guy was working for a hardwood flooring company. He was using a "bench
>  top" saw, not on a table or bench top, but on the floor.
>
>  Next, he was trying to run a piece of 3 quarter inch thick by 2 and a
>  quarter inches wide piece of oak wood through the blade of this saw without
>  any available safety devices.
>
>  If you read the instruction manual for any saw, they advise having the blade
>  set so the teeth are just above the surface of the wood being cut.
>
>  Court papers show he had the blade set to 3 inches, almost 2 and a quarter
>  inches higher than recommended, and almost the limit for blade height on
>  that particular saw.
>
>  All table saw manufacturers recommend keeping the blade guard in place. This
>  one had been removed.
>
>  Anyone that uses a table saw knows the fence is required to make a straight
>  cut. The fence in this case was not on the saw either. The victim admitted
>  in court, both the blade guard and fence were not in place.
>
>  Finally, when he started the cut, he said the wood started to chatter so he
>  shut the saw down. He brushed the surface of the table clean and resumed his
>  cut. When the wood started chattering again, he started pushing harder,
>  completely opposite what you should do, and that is when his mishap
>  occurred.
>
>  In the court papers, he admitted to having operated the saw while on one
>  knee on the floor. A completely off balance position.
>
>  It is important to note that the law suit doesn't involve the flooring
>  company this guy worked for.
>
>  This is an attempt to mandate that all saws carry the blade break system in
>  place on the SawStop brand.
>
>  The model saw used cost $159 from home Depot. A bench top saw is designed to
>  be lighter in weight, and is smaller so it can be used on a bench top.
>  Adding a blade brake would greatly increase the size of the saw, and
>  probably make it unsafe to sit on a bench. Not to mention the fact that you
>  can forget about $159 for a price. The same saw would most likely double in
>  price if not more.
>
>  If the congress really wants to do something productive, something that
>  would help all of us, they need to put a stop to law suits like this. Suing
>  McDonalds because you are fat, or because their coffee is too hot?
>
>  When I owned a shop years ago, we were all terrified as business owners when
>  some jerk picked up a running lawn mower and tried to cut his hedges with
>  it.
>
>  This guy lost his finger tips but sued because there wasn't a warning label
>  saying a mower wasn't fit for trimming hedges.
>
>  His win in this law suit put a whole company out of business. You can't
>  legislate against stupidity. If I use a machine designed to cut something as
>  hard as oak wood, I know it won't have a problem cutting my fingers or hand
>  off.
>
>  If I take off the blade guard and fence and still try to cut wood, I deserve
>  any punishment the saw dishes out for being that stupid.
>
>  Have a problem paying for health insurance? Paying claims like these are
>  what helps boost the cost.
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Shane Hecker
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.c

Re: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth?

[Spiro]

that judge was a wuss.




On Sat, 24 Jul 2010, Bob Kennedy wrote:

> This is truly a disgusting reflection on the legal system.
>
> To reward some idiot for disabling any safety features  that were available 
> is crazy.
> I've researched this case for an article I am helping write for another list 
> I'm on.  For those that don't know the details, here are the important ones.
>
> The guy was working for a hardwood flooring company.  He was using a "bench 
> top" saw, not on a table or bench top, but on the floor.
>
> Next, he was trying to run a piece of 3 quarter inch thick by 2 and a quarter 
> inches wide piece of oak wood through the blade of this saw without any 
> available safety devices.
>
> If you read the instruction manual for any saw, they advise having the blade 
> set so the teeth are just above the surface of the wood being cut.
>
> Court papers show he had the blade set to 3 inches, almost 2 and a quarter 
> inches higher than recommended, and almost the limit for blade height on that 
> particular saw.
>
> All table saw manufacturers recommend keeping the blade guard in place.  This 
> one had been removed.
>
> Anyone that uses a table saw knows the fence is required to make a straight 
> cut.  The fence in this case was not on the saw either.  The victim admitted 
> in court, both the blade guard and fence were not in place.
>
> Finally, when he started the cut, he said the wood started to chatter so he 
> shut the saw down.  He brushed the surface of the table clean and resumed his 
> cut.  When the wood started chattering again, he started pushing harder, 
> completely opposite what you should do, and that is when his mishap occurred.
>
> In the court papers, he admitted to having operated the saw while on one knee 
> on the floor.  A completely off balance position.
>
> It is important to note that the law suit doesn't involve the flooring 
> company this guy worked for.
>
> This is an attempt to mandate that all saws carry the blade break system in 
> place on the SawStop brand.
>
> The model saw used cost $159 from home Depot.  A bench top saw is designed to 
> be lighter in weight, and is smaller so it can be used on a bench top.  
> Adding a blade brake would greatly increase the size of the saw, and probably 
> make it unsafe to sit on a bench.  Not to mention the fact that you can 
> forget about $159 for a price.  The same saw would most likely double in 
> price if not more.
>
> If the congress really wants to do something productive, something that would 
> help all of us, they need to put a stop to law suits like this.  Suing 
> McDonalds because you are fat, or because their coffee is too hot?
>
> When I owned a shop years ago, we were all  terrified as business owners when 
> some jerk picked up a running lawn mower and tried to cut his hedges with it.
>
> This guy lost his finger tips but sued because there wasn't a warning label 
> saying a mower wasn't fit for trimming hedges.
>
> His win in this law suit put a whole company out of business.  You can't 
> legislate against stupidity.  If I use a machine designed to cut something as 
> hard as oak wood, I know it won't have a problem cutting my fingers or hand 
> off.
>
> If I take off the blade guard and fence and still try to cut wood, I deserve 
> any punishment the saw dishes out for being that stupid.
>
> Have a problem paying for health insurance?  Paying claims like these are 
> what helps boost the cost.
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Shane Hecker
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 4:35 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] FW: How much is a finger worth?
>
>
>
>  I thought this was interesting.
>
>  Shane
>
>  Feed: Productopia: The ConsumerSearch Blog
>  Posted on: Saturday, July 24, 2010 8:02 AM
>  Author: Catherine Jo Morgan
>  Subject: How much is a finger worth?
>
>  How about a hand? Do table saw 
>  manufacturers have an 
> obligation to use the safest technology available? The first jury to consider 
> this question -- in a civil lawsuit against the maker of Ryobi table saws -- 
> answered quite a definite "yes," to the tune of a 1.5 million dollar award 
> 
>  to the plaintiff.
>
>  read 
> 
>  more
>
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>
>  

Re: [BlindHandyMan] worm container

[Spiro]

I could do that. But then what about adding the worms? Do they like beer 
too?
I remember a neighbor used to have loud parties like that, slugs, grubs, 
beer, noisy lot.
But worms won't go for the beer?





On Tue, 20 Jul 2010, Geno wrote:

> So why don't you instead of using what you want... Use a small tuna fish can
> or something like it and pour some cheap beer into it. That being no pet of
> your own in the yard. The grubs  and slugs love it and get in it and die!!
> Geno
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] worm container

[Spiro]

will either the surface or deep type of nematode hurt worms?
I wish to use them to bother the grubs but wouldn't want to harm the 
worms.





On Mon, 19 Jul 2010, Geno wrote:

> I don't know about the worm container inside, but, bought a small box of 200
> night crawlers for my back then New yard and each time I build a new raised
> bed, buy a box of night crawlers and my son Erik was totally surprised at
> the number of worms I have almost anywhere in my raised beds and lawn!! I
> have different spots in each of the large beds and the smaller beds where I
> bury the coffee grounds that are used and their coffee filters!! The lawn I
> just save a container and when full spread all over the good size lawn!! I
> don't want anything crawling around in my home!
> Geno
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] BAH Fw: [Sci-tech] Odd but crual Giant alien weed (this is no joke

[Spiro]

but not to touch!




On Fri, 16 Jul 2010, Dale Leavens wrote:

> There have been a few discovered down by Sudbury, about four hours south of 
> here. Apparently they are quite spectacular to see.
>
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Spiro
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 8:06 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] BAH Fw: [Sci-tech] Odd but crual Giant alien weed 
> (this is no joke
>
>
>
>  Hey Dale be careful!
>  To: 'Science, Technology, Mathematics, SCI-FI, and more.'
>  Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 7:51 PM
>  Subject: [Sci-tech] Odd but crual Giant alien weed
>
>  Subject: [Members] Giant weed that can cause blindness popping up in 
> Ontario,B.C.
>
>  Officials scrambling to destroy the plant that can also cause burns and
>  permanent scarring.
>
>  Ciara Byrne
>
>  Globe and Mail, Jul. 09, 2010 5:26PM EDT
>
>  Toronto - The Canadian Press - A weed that can grow six metres tall, sprout 
> massive leaves and produce toxic,
>  blindness inducing sap is creeping into Ontario and parts of British 
> Columbia.
>  Giant hogweed is easily identified by its teetering height. The leaves on the
>  weed fan out as much as 1.5 metres in diameter. It is also identified by its
>  tell-tale purple splotching on the stem and its umbrella-like cluster of 
> white flowers.
>
>  The plant, which was spotted around the coast in British Columbia in late 
> June,
>  and is known to flourish in the Lower Mainland, Fraser Valley, Gulf Islands, 
> and
>  central to southern Vancouver Island, was discovered in the Renfrew County 
> area in
>  eastern Ontario on Thursday.
>
>  Jeff Muzzi, a manager of forestry services for Renfrew County, said officials
>  have destroyed the toxic vegetation, but he said the indomitable weed has 
> become a
>  problem for other places in the province, including southwestern Ontario.
>  "It's giant. It's not a misnomer," said Mr. Muzzi as he explained the 
> wondrous
>  plant that seems to sprout in waste land areas, like ditches and vacant lots.
>
>  David Galbraith, head of science at the Royal Botanical Gardens in Hamilton 
> said
>  he was intrigued by the enormous plant - which is part of the carrot family -
>  when he saw a huge patch growing behind a gas station north of the Goderich, 
> Ont.
>  years ago.
>
>  "I thought it was the most amazing thing I'd ever seen, a great, big, huge
>  spectacular plant," said Mr. Galbraith as he explained its allure.
>
>  While it may look bewildering - almost begging to be examined by an amateur
>  botanist or a green thumb - the consequences of touching the weed could scar 
> a person for
>  life.
>
>  "The sap gets activated by sunlight, so once you get out on the sun it reacts
>  and can cause really bad burns, blistering and scars," said Mr. Muzzi.
>  It has also been known to cause temporary blindness or, in extreme cases,
>  permanent loss of eyesight, said Mr. Muzzi.
>
>  Within 24 to 48 hours after a person comes in contact with the sap, the 
> symptoms
>  will begin to appear, he added.
>
>  The challenge is trying to uproot and remove the invasive weed, a careful 
> task
>  Mr. Muzzi tackled on Thursday.
>
>  "In the 35 degree heat I was snipping the flower heads off and I was wearing 
> a
>  Tyvex suit and eye protection," said Mr. Muzzi.
>  It may seem extreme, but it's exactly what the Invasive Plants Council of
>  British Columbia recommends an expert wear when they're removing the 
> worrisome weed. The
>  council recommends waterproof gloves, a rubber raincoat and pants and eye
>  protection.
>
>  Gail Wallin, the executive director of the council, said the weed has become
>  dense and has recently spread on Vancouver Island.
>
>  "It's the one plant that in the last month I've received scads of calls," 
> said
>  Ms. Wallin.
>
>  Its large roots make it difficult to dig up, and after it's removed some 
> experts
>  suggest mowing the patch it was nestled on for several years to eliminate 
> seeds
>  in the soil.
>
>  Given that giant hogweed can produce more than 100,000 seeds, there is the
>  potential that it will spread, said Mr. Muzzi.
>
>  Mr. Muzzi also said chemical herbicides can remove the plant, but since the
>  cosmetic pesticide ban came into effect in Ontario, people have become wary 
> of using any
>  chemicals on plants.
>
>  Experts believe it was brought from Asia to England, and then into North 
> America
>  as an ornamental plant, and quickly flourished in wet, moist areas without a
>  natural enemy.
>
>  Mr. Galbraith said the giant hogweed is an example of what happens when 
> people
>  introduce foreign plants into a garden.
>
>  "As an example of this problem, it's a spectacular one," said Mr. Galbraith.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] box formula

[Spiro]

ah yes, the screen reader read
360 divided by 2
times x
Forgive me.





On Fri, 16 Jul 2010, Dan Rossi wrote:

> Spiro,
>
> We said the same thing.  you said 360 / 2 / x   I said 360 / 2*x   I
> should have put parenthesis around my 2*x) but the result is the same.
>
> On Fri, 16 Jul 2010, Spiro wrote:
>
>> sorry Dan, divided by the number of sides
>> 360/2/x
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, 16 Jul 2010, Dan Rossi wrote:
>>
>>> To calculate the angle of the cut for a box, you divide 360 degrees by the
>>> number of sides of the box, then divide that by two.  For example, on a
>>> four sided box, 360 divided by 4 equals 90 degrees per corner, 90 divided
>>> by 2 equals 45 degrees per cut.
>>>
>>> To make it more simple, 360 divided by two times the number of sides.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Blue skies.
>>> Dan Rossi
>>> Carnegie Mellon University.
>>> E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
>>> Tel:(412) 268-9081
>>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>> Or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
>> just send a blank message to:
>> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> -- 
> Blue skies.
> Dan Rossi
> Carnegie Mellon University.
> E-Mail:   d...@andrew.cmu.edu
> Tel:  (412) 268-9081
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] box formula

[Spiro]

sorry Dan, divided by the number of sides
360/2/x




On Fri, 16 Jul 2010, Dan Rossi wrote:

> To calculate the angle of the cut for a box, you divide 360 degrees by the
> number of sides of the box, then divide that by two.  For example, on a
> four sided box, 360 divided by 4 equals 90 degrees per corner, 90 divided
> by 2 equals 45 degrees per cut.
>
> To make it more simple, 360 divided by two times the number of sides.
>
> -- 
> Blue skies.
> Dan Rossi
> Carnegie Mellon University.
> E-Mail:   d...@andrew.cmu.edu
> Tel:  (412) 268-9081
>

[BlindHandyMan] BAH Fw: [Sci-tech] Odd but crual Giant alien weed (this is no joke

[Spiro]

Hey Dale be careful!
To: 'Science, Technology, Mathematics, SCI-FI, and more.'
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 7:51 PM
Subject: [Sci-tech] Odd but crual Giant alien weed

  Subject: [Members] Giant weed that can cause blindness popping up in 
Ontario,B.C.


Officials scrambling to destroy the plant that can also cause burns and
permanent  scarring.

Ciara Byrne

Globe and Mail, Jul. 09, 2010 5:26PM EDT

Toronto - The Canadian Press - A weed that can grow six metres tall, sprout 
massive leaves and produce toxic,
blindness inducing sap is creeping into Ontario and parts of British Columbia.
Giant hogweed is easily identified by its teetering height. The leaves on the
weed fan out as much as 1.5 metres in diameter. It is also identified by its
tell-tale purple splotching on the stem and its umbrella-like cluster of white 
flowers.


The plant, which was spotted around the coast in British Columbia in late June,
and is known to flourish in the Lower Mainland, Fraser Valley, Gulf Islands, and
central to southern Vancouver Island, was discovered in the Renfrew County area 
in
eastern Ontario on Thursday.


Jeff Muzzi, a manager of forestry services for Renfrew County, said officials
have destroyed the toxic vegetation, but he said the indomitable weed has 
become a
problem for other places in the province, including southwestern Ontario.
"It's giant. It's not a misnomer," said Mr. Muzzi as he explained the wondrous
plant that seems to sprout in waste land areas, like ditches and vacant lots.

David Galbraith, head of science at the Royal Botanical Gardens in Hamilton said
he was intrigued by the enormous plant - which is part of the carrot family -
when he saw a huge patch growing behind a gas station north of the Goderich, 
Ont.
years ago.


"I thought it was the most amazing thing I'd ever seen, a great, big, huge
spectacular plant," said Mr. Galbraith as he explained its allure.

While it may look bewildering - almost begging to be examined by an amateur
botanist or a green thumb - the consequences of touching the weed could scar a 
person for
life.


"The sap gets activated by sunlight, so once you get out on the sun it reacts
and can cause really bad burns, blistering and scars," said Mr. Muzzi.
It has also been known to cause temporary blindness or, in extreme cases,
permanent loss of eyesight, said Mr. Muzzi.


Within 24 to 48 hours after a person comes in contact with the sap, the symptoms
will begin to appear, he added.


The challenge is trying to uproot and remove the invasive weed, a careful task
Mr. Muzzi tackled on Thursday.

"In the 35 degree heat I was snipping the flower heads off and I was wearing a
Tyvex suit and eye protection," said Mr. Muzzi.
It may seem extreme, but it's exactly what the Invasive Plants Council of
British Columbia recommends an expert wear when they're removing the worrisome 
weed. The
council recommends waterproof gloves, a rubber raincoat and pants and eye
protection.

Gail Wallin, the executive director of the council, said the weed has become
dense and has recently spread on Vancouver Island.

"It's the one plant that in the last month I've received scads of calls," said
Ms. Wallin.

Its large roots make it difficult to dig up, and after it's removed some experts
suggest mowing the patch it was nestled on for several years to eliminate seeds
in the soil.


Given that giant hogweed can produce more than 100,000 seeds, there is the
potential that it will spread, said Mr. Muzzi.


Mr. Muzzi also said chemical herbicides can remove the plant, but since the
cosmetic pesticide ban came into effect in Ontario, people have become wary of 
using any
chemicals on plants.


Experts believe it was brought from Asia to England, and then into North America
as an ornamental plant, and quickly flourished in wet, moist areas without a
natural enemy.


Mr. Galbraith said the giant hogweed is an example of what happens when people
introduce foreign plants into a garden.


"As an example of this problem, it's a spectacular one," said Mr. Galbraith.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Considering building my own apple drier or dehydrator

[Spiro]

I don't know about electricity usage, they do not get very hot. But 
efficiency is the argument there that is unnecessary. I just wanted to 
chime in here with "popiel being just fine for delicious banana chips; 
after a little trial and error on time and placement. it's a funny stack 
of trays, hard plastic and stackable. You can add or remove in process.the 
element is in the bottom and the top is just a lid.
I strongly recommend something other for jerky as the fats will leak 
through the bottom. I don't know if the paperwork advises against meats, 
or omits them, but that's my advice on that.





On Sat, 10 Jul 2010, Jim Gatteys wrote:

> I really think that the fact that dehydrators use more electricity is 
> mis-information.  I keep two of them going almost all summer and don't notice 
> any difference in the bill.  They only heat to about 145 or so and they use 
> about the same as a small lightbulb to heat and a small fan.  Go to
> http://www.excaliburdehydrators.com
>
> I'm not plugging this site.  Its just where I got my dehydrators from and am 
> really happy with them.  The site  has a lot of good recipes and know-how 
> there.
> Jim
> On Jul 9, 2010, at 9:55 PM, Victor Gouveia wrote:
>
>> I've heard that dehydrators tend to use quite a bit of electricity, and
>> while the dehydration process might be faster and easier, the savings on the
>> electrical bill would more than offset the ease of it all.
>>
>> Mind you, this information was gotten based on the old Popiel dehydrators,
>> so it may be out of date.
>>
>> Victor
>>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal

[Spiro]

the super or crazy glue pens are good for that challenge.
It relatively places a drop whee you want it. Let it settle and it should 
be good.




On Tue, 6 Jul 2010, Dale Leavens wrote:

> That stuff scares me! I have a bad habit of getting glue where I don't want 
> it and that stuff is nasty!
>
> I recommend some form or other of epoxy. It is a little more forgiving and 
> doesn't tend to stick body parts together.
>
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Jennifer Jackson
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:36 PM
>  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal
>
>
>
>  So this time I had the good sense to Google glue metal to metal, instead of
>  gorilla glue. I learned that Crazy glue will most likely do the job even
>  though it is listed as the thrird best choice. Sotering and then a two part
>  apoxy if you must glue were what the first recommendations were. I think
>  the Crazy glue will do for my purposes.
>
>  Jennifer
>
>  _
>
>  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
>  On Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson
>  Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 2:26 PM
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal
>
>  Thanks Betsy,
>
>  That is all I found too. I just have a pad lock that I want to glue the
>  screws in so it can not be opened with a screw driver instead of the key for
>  the padlock. I am open to other suggestions, I just already have the
>  gorilla glue and wanted it to work without a trip to the store.
>
>  Jennifer
>
>  rom: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>   ]
>  On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
>  Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:16 PM
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal
>
>  Aloha Jennifer,
>  I went online and could only find information about using it with wood.
>  Maybe I missed something, but...
>  Betsy
>  At 07:17 AM 7/6/2010, you wrote:
>  >
>  >
>  >Hey Guys,
>  >
>  >Will Gorilla glue work on metal?
>  >
>  >Jennifer
>  >
>  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>  >
>  >
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

RE: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal

[Spiro]

that will fill the hole with acrylic, it may seep in deeper than the 
gorilla.
I doubt your burgler is carrying acetone, though that would disolve it 
well if they were persistant. heehee





On Tue, 6 Jul 2010, Jennifer Jackson wrote:

> So this time I had the good sense to Google glue metal to metal, instead of
> gorilla glue.  I learned that Crazy glue will most likely do the job even
> though it is listed as the thrird best choice.  Sotering and then a two part
> apoxy if you must glue were what the first recommendations were.  I think
> the Crazy glue will do for my purposes.
>
>
>
>
>
> Jennifer
>
>
>
>
>
>  _
>
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson
> Sent: Tuesday, July 06,  2010 2:26 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks Betsy,
>
> That is all I found too. I just have a pad lock that I want to glue the
> screws in so it can not be opened with a screw driver instead of the key for
> the padlock. I am open to other suggestions, I just already have the
> gorilla glue and wanted it to work without a trip to the store.
>
> Jennifer
>
> rom: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  ]
> On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
> Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:16 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal
>
> Aloha Jennifer,
> I went online and could only find information about using it with wood.
> Maybe I missed something, but...
> Betsy
> At 07:17 AM 7/6/2010, you wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hey Guys,
>>
>> Will Gorilla glue work on metal?
>>
>> Jennifer
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

RE: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal

[Spiro]

I have a feeling that the gorilla glue could be scraped out of those 
holes.
A metal epox might be the best thing.





On Tue, 6 Jul 2010, Jennifer Jackson wrote:

> Thanks Betsy,
>
>
>
> That is all I found too.  I just have a pad lock that I want to glue the
> screws in so it can not be opened with a screw driver instead of the key for
> the padlock.  I am open to other suggestions, I just already have the
> gorilla glue and wanted it to work without a trip to the store.
>
>
>
>
>
> Jennifer
>
> rom: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
> Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:16 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal
>
>
>
>
>
> Aloha Jennifer,
> I went online and could only find information about using it with wood.
> Maybe I missed something, but...
> Betsy
> At 07:17 AM 7/6/2010, you wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hey Guys,
>>
>> Will Gorilla glue work on metal?
>>
>> Jennifer
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Basements Again!

[Spiro]

more likely than with a shop vac.




On Sat, 3 Jul 2010, Jennifer Jackson wrote:

> Will sucking up stray hard things damage her vac though?
>
>
>
> Jennifer
>
>
>
>
>
>  _
>
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Spiro
> Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 2:41 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Basements Again!
>
>
>
>
>
> it will suck up legos and action figures and then you'll not need to worry
> about the again.
> Even in the case of the small shop vac, is there not a stem for the hose?
> If I remember Claudia has an Orick and the side kick. That has a smaller
> hose diameter and there is a stem or shaft for it. Maybe that would fit
> the smaller shop vac, and let her use the wide brush instead of going
> around on hands and knees.
> Yes, shop vac will even pick up spiders.
> heehee
>
> On Sat, 3 Jul 2010, Jennifer Jackson wrote:
>
>> Claudia may have a small shop vac. My husband has two. He uses the small
>> one for things like cleaning up the car and getting up small messes, and
>> then the big one for big messes. Big messes like sucking standing water
> out
>> of the air vents after our flood.
>>
>>
>>
>> If she is using a small one, that would take much longer.
>>
>>
>>
>> Could I use a large shop vac to more quickly tidy the living room? Will it
>> suck up things like Lagos and action figures?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Jennifer
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _
>>
>> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> ]
>> On Behalf Of Spiro
>> Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 1:51 PM
>> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
>
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basements Again!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> heck, what would be faster than a shop vac? i do my shop with one and
>> that's so much faster than a broom.
>> Oh, okay, get the attachment that is a metal brush head for the shaft to
>> the hose.
>> The hose will fit a metal pipe, and there's a head that goes onto that.
>> There are attachments that go on that head, one is a squiji, one is a
>> water skate, one is a metal brush.
>> That should help.
>>
>> On Fri, 2 Jul 2010, Claudia wrote:
>>
>>> Hi All,
>>>
>>> We have a large unfinished basement; the floors are concrete, and the
>> walls are cindrblock.
>>> There is no insulation or drywall in the basement currently!
>>> We had that all taken out, after we experienced about a foot of water, in
>> our basement, two years ago.
>>> What would be the best way to go about keeping the basement floor clean?
>> We currently use a shop vac to do that, but it takes forever and a day, to
>> get it done.
>>> Also, I think I asked about this before, but the basement gets full of
>> spiders and spider webs, and I hate walking around down there, feeling
> stuff
>> hanging over my head!
>>> What can we do to curb some of this activity, if anything?
>>>
>>> Or, would some of this probelm be eliminated, once we start putting back
>> new insulation and drywall?
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> Claudia
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
> <mailto:cdelreal1973%40sbcglobal.net>
>> <mailto:cdelreal1973%40sbcglobal.net>
>>> Skype: claudiadr10
>>>
>>>
>>> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
>> signature database 5245 (20100702) __
>>>
>>> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>>>
>>> http://www.eset.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Basements Again!

[Spiro]

it will suck up legos and action figures and then you'll not need to worry 
about the again.
Even in the case of the small shop vac, is there not a stem for the hose? 
If I remember Claudia has an Orick and the side kick. That has a smaller 
hose diameter and there is a stem or shaft for it. Maybe that would fit 
the smaller shop vac, and let her use the wide brush instead of going 
around on hands and knees.
Yes, shop vac will even pick up spiders.
heehee





On Sat, 3 Jul 2010, Jennifer Jackson wrote:

> Claudia may have a small shop vac.  My husband has two.  He uses the small
> one for things like cleaning up the car and getting up small messes, and
> then the big one for big messes.  Big messes like sucking standing water out
> of the air vents after our flood.
>
>
>
> If she is using a small one, that would take much longer.
>
>
>
> Could I use a large shop vac to more quickly tidy the living room?  Will it
> suck up things like Lagos and action figures?
>
>
>
>
>
> Jennifer
>
>
>
>
>
>  _
>
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Spiro
> Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 1:51 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basements Again!
>
>
>
>
>
> heck, what would be faster than a shop vac? i do my shop with one and
> that's so much faster than a broom.
> Oh, okay, get the attachment that is a metal brush head for the shaft to
> the hose.
> The hose will fit a metal pipe, and there's a head that goes onto that.
> There are attachments that go on that head, one is a squiji, one is a
> water skate, one is a metal brush.
> That should help.
>
> On Fri, 2 Jul 2010, Claudia wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> We have a large unfinished basement; the floors are concrete, and the
> walls are cindrblock.
>> There is no insulation or drywall in the basement currently!
>> We had that all taken out, after we experienced about a foot of water, in
> our basement, two years ago.
>> What would be the best way to go about keeping the basement floor clean?
> We currently use a shop vac to do that, but it takes forever and a day, to
> get it done.
>> Also, I think I asked about this before, but the basement gets full of
> spiders and spider webs, and I hate walking around down there, feeling stuff
> hanging over my head!
>> What can we do to curb some of this activity, if anything?
>>
>> Or, would some of this probelm be eliminated, once we start putting back
> new insulation and drywall?
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Claudia
>>
>>
>>
>> Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
> <mailto:cdelreal1973%40sbcglobal.net>
>> Skype: claudiadr10
>>
>>
>> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
> signature database 5245 (20100702) __
>>
>> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>>
>> http://www.eset.com
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basements Again!

[Spiro]

nail that cover to the rafters above the treadmill and you won't have to 
keep putting it on and taking it off each time you want to boogie.




On Fri, 2 Jul 2010, Claudia wrote:

> Thanks Dale,
>
> I'm making the basement my haven, for at least an hour a day, because I'm 
> placing my new treadmill there.
> It's the best place for it, but I get a little creeped out, by the spdery 
> things.
> I am planning to buy some kine of small tarp or cover, to place over the 
> treadmill, after each use, to help keep buggers and dust out.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Claudia
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Dale Leavens
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 2:44 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basements Again!
>
>
>
>  Hello Claudia,
>
>  The vacuum is probably the best way to keep the dust down but if you prefer, 
> a wide push broom, a big dustpan or the vacuum once you push dust and dirt 
> into the corner to pick it up and I would recommend purchasing some Dustbane 
> to put down before you sweep to keep dust from rising and flying about. 
> Dustbane I see when looking up the spelling isn't a specific product but a 
> product line. What I remember about it is it's specific smell and wondering 
> at the janitor scattering this dirt looking stuff on the floor before then 
> sweeping it up. It looked to me like a make work project as an observing 7 
> year old.
>
>  There are different grades of push broom, you want something fairly soft so 
> the bristles don't just flick the dirt about. this is not an automotive 
> garage you are cleaning. I like to store my brooms upside down with the 
> bristles in the air to minimize them forming shape to the floor as they 
> stand. I have a couple I use mostly outside on the patio and driveway.
>
>  You could also damp mop but that too is difficult.
>
>  Your spider webs, though a little gross are a good way of keeping other 
> insect activity under control. There are other ways though.
>
>  I wonder if they still make those Vapona strips. They were a flat strap 
> maybe three inches wide, quarter inch thick and about 8 inches long. they 
> were impregnated with a chemical which killed insects in an enclosed space 
> and probably also caused genetic deformities in future generations 
> particularly if you spend prolonged times enclosed with them. We also had a 
> timed device, a couple of batteries in a box turned a cam shaft and sprayed a 
> small squirt of insecticide every 15 minutes or so all summer. Used to set it 
> up near the cold air return of the furnace to insure whole home coverage but 
> you may only want it in a corner of your basement.
>
>  The spiders and many other insects like places like your basement, it is 
> cool, dark and the relative humidity will be that bit higher, just what they 
> love.
>
>  A dehumidifier might also help.
>
>  If you are not using the basement a lot then the floor probably isn't 
> getting all that dirty. There might be some fall-out from above though, dust 
> and debris left over from the destruction. It might help to use the wand and 
> a soft brush and work overhead removing dust from the structures above so it 
> doesn't rain down when the kids are stamping about overhead.
>
>  Those are the thoughts which come immediately to my mind.
>
>  Dale Leavens.
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Claudia
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 3:05 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Basements Again!
>
>  Hi All,
>
>  We have a large unfinished basement; the floors are concrete, and the walls 
> are cindrblock.
>  There is no insulation or drywall in the basement currently!
>  We had that all taken out, after we experienced about a foot of water, in 
> our basement, two years ago.
>  What would be the best way to go about keeping the basement floor clean? We 
> currently use a shop vac to do that, but it takes forever and a day, to get 
> it done.
>  Also, I think I asked about this before, but the basement gets full of 
> spiders and spider webs, and I hate walking around down there, feeling stuff 
> hanging over my head!
>  What can we do to curb some of this activity, if anything?
>
>  Or, would some of this probelm be eliminated, once we start putting back new 
> insulation and drywall?
>  Thanks.
>
>  Claudia
>
>  Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
>  Skype: claudiadr10
>
>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5245 (20100702) __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5247 (20100702) __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus sign

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basements Again!

[Spiro]

heck, what would be faster than a shop vac? i do my shop with one and 
that's so much faster than a broom.
Oh, okay, get the attachment that is a metal brush head for the shaft to 
the hose.
The hose will fit a metal pipe, and there's a head that goes onto that. 
There are attachments that go on that head, one is a squiji, one is a 
water skate, one is a metal brush.
That should help.





On Fri, 2 Jul 2010, Claudia wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> We have a large unfinished basement; the floors are concrete, and the walls 
> are cindrblock.
> There is no insulation or drywall in the basement currently!
> We had that all taken out, after we experienced about a foot of water, in our 
> basement, two years ago.
> What would be the best way to go about keeping the basement floor clean?  We 
> currently use a shop vac to do that, but it takes forever and a day, to get 
> it done.
> Also, I think I asked about this before, but the basement gets full of 
> spiders and spider webs, and I hate walking around down there, feeling stuff 
> hanging over my head!
> What can we do to curb some of this activity, if anything?
>
> Or, would some of this probelm be eliminated, once we start putting back new 
> insulation and drywall?
> Thanks.
>
> Claudia
>
>
>
> Windows Messenger:  cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
> Skype:  claudiadr10
>
>
> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5245 (20100702) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] cleaning metal door knobs

[Spiro]

how about Brasso?





On Thu, 1 Jul 2010, David Engebretson Jr. wrote:

> I've got some old door knobs and plates that cover the locking mechanisms 
> that need some cleaning.  Not sure what types of metal they are - just a 
> hodge podge of antiquie ish knobs.
>
> any suggestions for a cleaning material that won't hurt the metal but will 
> get it clean?
>
> thanks,
> david
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill greese

[Spiro]

I get a short time out of furnature polish on the deck.





On Thu, 1 Jul 2010, jim wrote:

> yeah rick   i am not sure what the grease is i have but will check into it
> jim
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] ozone

[spiro]

but the academic value would be the same.


On Sat, 26 Jun 2010, Dale Leavens wrote:

> Where on earth does this stuff come from!
>
> The lungs are about 100% efficient at 16% oxygen saturation under normal 
> healthy conditions. The atmospheric oxygen is just under 21% so, your blood 
> is fully oxygenated with plenty to spare provided your lungs aren't damaged 
> by, among other things, extreme oxygen exposure or of course ozone.
>
> The thing about ozone though is that should the third oxygen atom dissociate 
> it becomes free to associate with other elements to form free radicals.
>
> Not to worry too much though, unless the water is pressurized with O3, it 
> cannot remain suspended in the liquid long enough to be present in any amount 
> when you drink it because of the low partial pressure of O3 in the 
> surrounding environment. It is possible to get some to stay in suspension by 
> pressurizing the water in O3 gas as they do with carbon dioxide which is what 
> causes the fizz in soda drinks and yes, even beer and sparkling wines. Now, 
> when I drink a lot of beer with lots of carbon dioxide fizz it returns the 
> way it came in the form of very satisfying burps. Well, most of it does, some 
> apparently finds another less pleasing exit. While I don't know this for 
> sure, I expect that pressurized ozone would perform similarly except that 
> it's reputed odor absorbing properties might limit some of the entertainment 
> value.
>
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: John Sherrer
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 6:49 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] ozone
>
>
>
>  Ozonated water is good for you since it increases your absorbed oxygen. It 
> also helps your body get rid of free radicals.
>  John
>  http://WhiteCane.org
>  http://BlindWoodWorker.com
>  http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
>  http://anellos.ws
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: clifford
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 11:14 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] ozone
>
>  Dear List Members:
>  Ozone is used quite extensively in bottled water to be sure no bacteria is 
> introduced in to natural spring water which is free of little bugs from the 
> outset. I am told that the amount introduced is such that it dissipates 
> quickly but dealing a death blow to any microbes which may have been 
> introduced during the bottling process.
>  I have an electronic air filter at my office, and when there is a lot of 
> arcing, when a larger piece of lent or what have you is sucked in, then it 
> sounds like a bug whacker. When that happens, I am told that a bit of ozone 
> is generated. A smell is also created for a brief time. I hope the levels are 
> so low as to not be harmful.
>
>  Yours Truly,
>
>  Clifford Wilson
>
>  __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature 
> database 5227 (20100624) __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems

[Spiro]

in fact in addressed indoor ozone in many ways.
It addressed indoor ozone levels, as well as natural levels at ground 
level that could come in and refered to the combination of those and of 
multiple machines, and the use of machines for given size areas in smaller 
areas and distance from machines. It refered to carpet, and embalming 
fluid and listed many papers produced to support the discussion.
It referred to microbes in ceiling tiles and that levels 5x that of safe 
would be required to kill microbes though higher if they were to be 
effected once the ozone was turned off; and how those embedded microbes 
may not be effected at all.





On Wed, 23 Jun 2010, John Sherrer wrote:

> I did get the link to open.
> This never addressed indoor ozone.  But it did help me understand ozone 
> warnings.
>
> John
> http://WhiteCane.org
> http://BlindWoodWorker.com
> http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
> http://anellos.ws
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Dan Rossi
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 8:02 AM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems
>
>
>
>  Lenny,
>
>  Thanks very much for this link. It was an interesting read and I will
>  send it to everyone who tells me that Ozone generators are a good thing.
>
>  John, I guess you were right, there is good Ozone and bad Ozone. Good up
>  high, bad near by. Ozone in the upper atmosphere is vital to the Earth,
>  but a serious pollutant at ground level. So you are, in fact, generating
>  the bad kind of Ozone in your house.
>
>  --
>  Blue skies.
>  Dan Rossi
>  Carnegie Mellon University.
>  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
>  Tel: (412) 268-9081
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems

[Spiro]

and as the environmental Protection Agency report quoted
"good ozone up high, not near by".





On Wed, 23 Jun 2010, Dan Rossi wrote:

> On Tue, 22 Jun 2010, John Sherrer wrote:
>
>> Ozone is part of nature, such as a lightening strike, when you can
>> smell the ozone.  This cleanses the air and land.  This is the good
>> ozone.
>
> Um, OK.  However, lightning also causes forest fires, which are part of
> nature, and important to the generation of new growth, but I don't want
> fire in my house.
>
> Carbon Dioxide is also found naturally in the environment, and very
> important to plant growth.  I don't want a CO2 generator in my house
> either.
>
>  --
> Blue skies.
> Dan Rossi
> Carnegie Mellon University.
> E-Mail:   d...@andrew.cmu.edu
> Tel:  (412) 268-9081
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems

[Spiro]

great article. Seems like an expanded version of what I last read, about 5 
years ago.
thanks for this.




On Tue, 22 Jun 2010, Lenny McHugh wrote:

> After reading this information you may change your mind. A few years ago I
> called a manufacturer about a cleaner that can produce ozone. I mentioned
> that I have a guide dog. His response to turn the ozone generation off or
> purchase a different model.
> http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/ozonegen.html
> - Original Message -
> From: "John Sherrer" 
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2010 11:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems
>
>
> Ozone is part of nature, such as a lightening strike, when you can smell the
> ozone.  This cleanses the air and land.  This is the good ozone.  My
> ozonator has the same smell as the ozone from a lightening strike.
> Ozone will kill all bacteria, virus, and dust mites in the air by burning
> them with oxygen.
> I have a guide dog and had other dogs in the past, and the ozone gets rid of
> most odors.  Tour house never smelled like dog, except when using the vacuum
> cleaner.
>
> One reason why I like ozone is that it neutralizes chemicals.
>
> We had new carpet installed.  As you may know new carpet has strong odors
> from the plastic vapors.  We put the ozonator in the room and cranked it up
> all the way since we were going to be out of the house a few days.  We came
> back and had no odors.
>
> I believe that bad ozone is ozone mixed with pollution.  I do not know when
> ozone helps pollution or opposes it.  I have never smelled ozone on days
> with high ozone alerts.  Since I am telling you what I believe and am not
> sure, do not believe it, let's find out what bad ozone is.  A few years ago
> I was at a web site that explained the difference and I will look for it.
>
> John
> http://WhiteCane.org
> http://BlindWoodWorker.com
> http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
> http://anellos.ws
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Dan Rossi
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2010 9:42 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems
>
>
>
>  The good kind of Ozone? which version of o3 is the good kind and which is
>  the bad kind? O3 is O3. At high concentrations, Ozone is a pretty nasty
>  pollutant. Think of it this way, it is used as a disinfectant because it
>  quote kills the microbes that come into contact with it. People may be
>  larger than microbes, but we operate on a lot of the same principles.
>
>  --
>  Blue skies.
>  Dan Rossi
>  Carnegie Mellon University.
>  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
>  Tel: (412) 268-9081
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
> just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Check your lumber.

[Spiro]

1x3's have gotten worse and worse, what I last saw as 1x3's wasn't even 
worth picking up as the splinters made me think it was poorly glued straw 
and not lumber.





On Tue, 1 Jun 2010, Don H wrote:

> It is real tough to get lumber these days that isn't warped, cracked or
> otherwise not what you want.  In my town the best lumber can be had from a
> local small lumber yard versus the local Lowes or Home Depot.  This
> especially holds true for 2 by lumber.
>
>
>
>  _
>
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 1:12 PM
> To: Blind Handyman List
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Check your lumber.
>
>
>
>
>
> I had asked a buddy of mine to give me a hand picking out the lumber for
> the basement stairs, and helping me get it home. I asked him to carefully
> check the boards for integrity, are they straight, are they checked at the
> ends. He assured me that we got some beautiful boards.
>
> When I cut that first little registration chunk, about 1.5 inches long,
> off the end of one of the 2X10 boards, it literally fell in half, a split
> running right through it. So, I cut another 1.5 inches. It fell in half.
> So, I cut a third 1.5 inches. That one didn't fall in half, but when I
> picked it up and flexed it slightly, it broke in half.
>
> The fourth chunk wouldn't break in my hands, but I can kind of feel the
> split in it. So, hopefully after six inches of my board are gone, I might
> actually have some usable lumber.
>
> -- 
> Blue skies.
> Dan Rossi
> Carnegie Mellon University.
> E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu 
> Tel: (412) 268-9081
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] gazebo(s)

[Spiro]

sorry I'm so late on this.
Neighbors about 10 houses down, have put a 14x14 on either side of their 
walkway.
My walk way is 25 on one side and 10 on the other. Theirs is centered.
Anyway, they've attached those poles to mounts they have into the stone, 
and can release. They've hung screeen between the two structures, and it's 
up all year.
It's big and they are out there as often as possible, as i would be.
I've gotten scant details from a neighbor in the back lots who watches 
baseball with them.
I had looked at a  list of these but ran out of disposable funding.





On Fri, 7 May 2010, Howard Traxler wrote:

> Thanks to those who suggested.  I'll take a look around.
>
> The gazebo I have is either hexagonal or octagonal and has a rope at each 
> corner and a (maybe) 8 inch wire anchor to put into the ground.  It's all 
> made out of aluminum poles, canvas, and cloth screening.  Son-in-law puts it 
> up in spring and takes it down in fall.  He calls it a tent--which is 
> probably a better discription.  It was around a hundred bucks in some mail 
> order catalog.  I'd like to have something a bit more substantial.
>
> Howard
>
> - Original Message -
>  From: Brice Mijares
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 1:33 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gazebo(s)
>
>
>
>  Can't you anchor the one you have down?
>  - Original Message -
>  From: "Howard Traxler" 
>  To: 
>  Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 11:16 AM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] gazebo(s)
>
>  > Does anyone know of a easy-to-build gazebo or a kit that's pretty durable?
>  > We have an inexpensive one that seems to blow over any time we have a
>  > wind. I'd like to (probably) purchase one that's a bit stronger.
>  >
>  > Thanks for any ideas.
>  >
>  > Howard
>  >
>  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  > __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
>  > signature database 5088 (20100505) __
>  >
>  > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>  >
>  > http://www.eset.com
>  >
>  >
>
>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5088 (20100505) __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] bag on shop vac hose

[Spiro]

good job.





On Sat, 29 May 2010, Lenny McHugh wrote:

> It worked as I expected. When I took it off Karen went "yuck" the bag at the
> end and a little up the outside was covered with black grease. Last year I
> was not a happy camper. I did not realize that I had this black gunk on the
> hose. I used the vac in the basement then picked up a piece of white oak. It
> was a real mess getting the black greasy finger prints off of the wood.
> ---
> Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
> with many resources for the blind.
> http://www.lennymchugh.com
> Lenny
> Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
> addressing.
> Help stop identity theft.
>
>
> __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature 
> database 5154 (20100528) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
> just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve

[Spiro]

I have had pecs under a sink and toilet for 15 months.
Be careful  to not crush the material in the instalation.
Otherwise, good stuff.





On Tue, 25 May 2010, Bob Kennedy wrote:

> Home Depot sells the Shark Bights.  I have not had a problem with them yet.  
> I just replaced the shower mixer and faucet Saturday.  The closest shut off 
> was under the house, and the shower was on the 2nd floor.
>
> As I was rushed for time, I didn't want to solder 2 new shut offs in a very 
> confined area.  I went to Lowes since it is closer to the house.  This store 
> didn't stock their brand, Gator Bights, with a shut off.
>
> I picked up 2 Shark Bights for half inch copper and had them in place in less 
> than 5 minutes.  The best test I know is to turn the water on and watch for 
> leaks.  Not a one...  So I continue to give them my best rating for what it's 
> worth.
>
> I can't talk about Pecs since I haven't done any yet.
>
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Alan & Terrie Robbins
>  To: Blindhandyman
>  Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 10:09 AM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve
>
>
>
>  Just called my local hardware store as I need to pick up a
>  shut off valve to go in half inch copper line. I believe
>  what I want is referred to as a gate valve (inside totally
>  retracts to give full unrestricted flow) correct? I asked if
>  they had these so I could use the shark bite fittings. They
>  said they had Pex and it was the same. Since I've read about
>  both but never used either are these the same or
>  interchangeable? Is there a special tool I'll need to have
>  on hand to remove should I want to? Last question: Do you
>  feel the shark bite or Pex are as reliable as compression
>  fittings?
>
>  thanks
>  Al
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor

[Spiro]

I think it used to be called KD for kilm dried.




On Tue, 25 May 2010, Ron Yearns wrote:

> OK I'm biting .  White is bakeed lumber?
> Ron
>  - Original Message -
>  From: chiliblindman
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 9:27 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor
>
>
>
>  You might consider the newer baked lumber. It will take moisture extremes 
> and not rot or expand and shrink.
>  .bob
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve

[Spiro]

I'm not a contractor; so I've not done hundreds of them.
But i haven't seen seems where it looked like it would blow apart under 
consumer pressure.
I'd go with them, unless *maybe* the set up is outside and going to take 
abuse that the copper or galvanized could take as necessity.





On Tue, 25 May 2010, Alan & Terrie Robbins wrote:

> Just called my local hardware store as I need to pick up a
> shut off valve to go in half inch copper line. I believe
> what I want is referred to as a gate valve (inside totally
> retracts to give full unrestricted flow) correct? I asked if
> they had these so I could use the shark bite fittings. They
> said they had Pex and it was the same. Since I've read about
> both but never used either are these the same or
> interchangeable? Is there a special tool I'll need to have
> on hand to remove should I want to? Last question: Do you
> feel the shark bite or Pex are as reliable as compression
> fittings?
>
> thanks
> Al
>
>

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.

[Spiro]

I don't quite know if this is of any worth as I'm not quite up to the job.
but an old army engineer guy once told me to cut stringers you nail a 
piece of verticle wood block tto the header, then a much wider verticle to 
that.
He suggested to put that to the floor and nail a horizonal to that and the 
bottom of the stringer becomes the hypotenuse of the two.
i said "oh so you'e made a triangle, why not measure?" and he said
"you don't care about that. You have two boards that let you draw a line 
on that particular piece of wood for that particular part of header and 
floor considering settling and shift."
I am guessing hat one could then move that line to wherever needed, but 
wouldn't cutting one end change the actual placement at the other?





On Mon, 24 May 2010, Alan & Terrie Robbins wrote:

> Dan,
>
> Oh the joys of older homes. Always running into this type stuff with
> projects. Your tenacity is to be admired
>
> Al
>  -Original Message-
>  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
>  Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 10:21 PM
>  To: Blind Handyman List
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.
>
>
>
>  I finished the basement floor project, including building the trap door to
>  access the central drain. The floor ain't pretty, just sheets of O S B,
>  but it seems quite sturdy.
>
>  As part of putting down the new floor, I ripped out the basement stairs,
>  which had been pretty seriously compromised by termites.
>
>  This weekend I started building the new stairs. Instead of cutting the
>  saw tooth stringers, much too tedious, I am just using 2X12s with the
>  treads and risers sandwiched between them. A lot simpler, but
>  never-the-less, pretty darn hard to cut those angles exactly right. The
>  big pain is just making sure the measurements are as exact as you can get.
>
>  Cutting off the ends of the 2X12 to get the angles for the upper and lower
>  ends took a while. I can easily calculate that I needed a 43.5 degree
>  angle but being able to measure out everything to cut that angle was
>  frustrating.
>
>  Being off a 16th doesn't seem like much until you get twelve feet away,
>  and suddenly you're an inch off from where you want to be.
>
>  Not to mention that the header I was resting the top of the stringer
>  against, was not even close to plumb, so if I wanted the stringer to rest
>  nice and flush against it, I had to re-cut it at a completely different
>  angle.
>
>  I got the stringers cut and mounted, but had to leave half way through
>  today, so one more week without steps I guess.
>
>  --
>  Blue skies.
>  Dan Rossi
>  Carnegie Mellon University.
>  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
>  Tel: (412) 268-9081
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] test, hope i's not bouncing

[Spiro]

yes, than kyou very much!
I hate server failrues!





On Thu, 20 May 2010, David Ferrin wrote:

> I know as I sent you the reactivation notices but obviously everything is
> fine now.
> David Ferrin
> www.jaws-users.com
> Life is what happens after you have already made other plans.
> - Original Message -
> From: 
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 1:44 AM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] test, hope i's not bouncing
>
>
>
>
>  --
>
> Hello I hope this gets to list; my messages have been bouncing as the
> servers were down for 12 days. Sorry for the OT response,
>
>
> On Sat, 8 May 2010, John Sherrer wrote:
>
>> You may find a very good cedar kit at Cosco.com
>>
>> John
>> http://WhiteCane.org
>> http://BlindWoodWorker.com
>> http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
>> http://anellos.ws
>>
>>  - Original Message -
>>  From: Howard Traxler
>>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>>  Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 8:13 AM
>>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gazebo(s)
>>
>>
>>
>>  Thanks to those who suggested. I'll take a look around.
>>
>>  The gazebo I have is either hexagonal or octagonal and has a rope at each
>> corner and a (maybe) 8 inch wire anchor to put into the ground. It's all
>> made out of aluminum poles, canvas, and cloth screening. Son-in-law puts
>> it up in spring and takes it down in fall. He calls it a tent--which is
>> probably a better discription. It was around a hundred bucks in some mail
>> order catalog. I'd like to have something a bit more substantial.
>>
>>  Howard
>>
>>  - Original Message -
>>  From: Brice Mijares
>>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>>  Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 1:33 PM
>>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gazebo(s)
>>
>>  Can't you anchor the one you have down?
>>  - Original Message -
>>  From: "Howard Traxler" 
>>  To: 
>>  Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 11:16 AM
>>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] gazebo(s)
>>
>> > Does anyone know of a easy-to-build gazebo or a kit that's pretty
>> durable?
>> > We have an inexpensive one that seems to blow over any time we have a
>> > wind. I'd like to (probably) purchase one that's a bit stronger.
>> >
>> > Thanks for any ideas.
>> >
>> > Howard
>> >
>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
>> > signature database 5088 (20100505) __
>> >
>> > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>> >
>> > http://www.eset.com
>> >
>> >
>>
>>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
>> signature database 5088 (20100505) __
>>
>>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>>
>>  http://www.eset.com
>>
>>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
> just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

[BlindHandyMan] painting panel

[spiro]

if it hasn't been mentioned, plenty of ventilation is required, and 
preferable when using any of the Kilz products. Especially the original 
and full strength product.



On Fri, 14 May 2010, Jennifer Jackson wrote:

> We used the paint with the primer in it.  It still took three coats and can 
> probably use another one.  If doing it over I would use the Kels (sp?) stuff 
> first.  Still we are pretty happy with it and it really brightens up the room.
>
> At some point I may go back and mud it all smooth for a different look, but 
> painted paneling is actually being done a lot.  We used a small paint brush 
> for the groves and then a roller on the rest and it went pretty well.
>
> Some of you may recall that my partner in crime for this project was my 
> eleven year old son.  A friend of the family came by and showed him some tips 
> for the first half hour and then we were on our own.  He did a great job, but 
> was exhausted by the end of the day.  He also learned a valuable lesson about 
> not wearing your favorite shoes to paint in. *smile*
>
>
> Jennifer
>
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: RJ
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 1:14 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] painting paneling
>
>
>
>  Lee,
>
>  If one use wallboard compound, about three layers in the grewves you can get 
> a smooth wall before painting. Did that in a few rentals, when I had the eye 
> sight. I put a good primer coat and than a good latex paint. Now a days, they 
> tell me you can get the paint with the primer already in the mix or finish 
> coat.
>  RJ
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Lee A. Stone
>  To: Blind Handyman
>  Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 13:48
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] painting paneling
>
>  I thinkit was Clifford and Jennifer who spoke of painting paneling. did
>  you really do it and if so how did it turn out and what did you use
>  for paint. did you use like the little foam sponges on a stick t get
>  int the grooves ? thanks Lee
>
>  --
>  The honeymoon is over when he phones to say he'll be late for supper and
>  she's already left a note that it's in the refrigerator.
>  -- Bill Lawrence
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

[BlindHandyMan] test, hope i's not bouncing

[spiro]

  --

Hello I hope this gets to list; my messages have been bouncing as the 
servers were down for 12 days. Sorry for the OT response,


On Sat, 8 May 2010, John Sherrer wrote:

> You may find a very good cedar kit at Cosco.com
>
> John
> http://WhiteCane.org
> http://BlindWoodWorker.com
> http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
> http://anellos.ws
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Howard Traxler
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 8:13 AM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gazebo(s)
>
>
>
>  Thanks to those who suggested. I'll take a look around.
>
>  The gazebo I have is either hexagonal or octagonal and has a rope at each 
> corner and a (maybe) 8 inch wire anchor to put into the ground. It's all made 
> out of aluminum poles, canvas, and cloth screening. Son-in-law puts it up in 
> spring and takes it down in fall. He calls it a tent--which is probably a 
> better discription. It was around a hundred bucks in some mail order catalog. 
> I'd like to have something a bit more substantial.
>
>  Howard
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Brice Mijares
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 1:33 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gazebo(s)
>
>  Can't you anchor the one you have down?
>  - Original Message -
>  From: "Howard Traxler" 
>  To: 
>  Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 11:16 AM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] gazebo(s)
>
>  > Does anyone know of a easy-to-build gazebo or a kit that's pretty durable?
>  > We have an inexpensive one that seems to blow over any time we have a
>  > wind. I'd like to (probably) purchase one that's a bit stronger.
>  >
>  > Thanks for any ideas.
>  >
>  > Howard
>  >
>  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  > __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
>  > signature database 5088 (20100505) __
>  >
>  > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>  >
>  > http://www.eset.com
>  >
>  >
>
>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5088 (20100505) __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] painting paneling

[spiro]

if it hasn't been mentioned, plenty of ventilation is required, and 
preferable when using any of the Kilz products. Especially the original 
and full strength product.



On Fri, 14 May 2010, Jennifer Jackson wrote:

> We used the paint with the primer in it.  It still took three coats and can 
> probably use another one.  If doing it over I would use the Kels (sp?) stuff 
> first.  Still we are pretty happy with it and it really brightens up the room.
>
> At some point I may go back and mud it all smooth for a different look, but 
> painted paneling is actually being done a lot.  We used a small paint brush 
> for the groves and then a roller on the rest and it went pretty well.
>
> Some of you may recall that my partner in crime for this project was my 
> eleven year old son.  A friend of the family came by and showed him some tips 
> for the first half hour and then we were on our own.  He did a great job, but 
> was exhausted by the end of the day.  He also learned a valuable lesson about 
> not wearing your favorite shoes to paint in. *smile*
>
>
> Jennifer
>
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: RJ
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 1:14 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] painting paneling
>
>
>
>  Lee,
>
>  If one use wallboard compound, about three layers in the grewves you can get 
> a smooth wall before painting. Did that in a few rentals, when I had the eye 
> sight. I put a good primer coat and than a good latex paint. Now a days, they 
> tell me you can get the paint with the primer already in the mix or finish 
> coat.
>  RJ
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Lee A. Stone
>  To: Blind Handyman
>  Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 13:48
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] painting paneling
>
>  I thinkit was Clifford and Jennifer who spoke of painting paneling. did
>  you really do it and if so how did it turn out and what did you use
>  for paint. did you use like the little foam sponges on a stick t get
>  int the grooves ? thanks Lee
>
>  --
>  The honeymoon is over when he phones to say he'll be late for supper and
>  she's already left a note that it's in the refrigerator.
>  -- Bill Lawrence
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Freakin termites.

[Spiro]

Okay, thanks, as long as I am following.
Those sections could be 70lbs each, but we have friends and beer?





On Thu, 6 May 2010, Dan Rossi wrote:

> Spiro,
>
> Yes, I can easily get the pig out of the basement and to the yard, there
> are only three steps up now.
>
> So, I would definitely drag it out of the basement for the destruction.
> Regardless, I would still have to haul the pieces down the stairs to the
> street.
>
> I won't have to worry about that for a couple of months though.  One major
> project at a time.
>
>
> -- 
> Blue skies.
> Dan Rossi
> Carnegie Mellon University.
> E-Mail:   d...@andrew.cmu.edu
> Tel:  (412) 268-9081
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Freakin termites.

[Spiro]

Hi,
I may be confused.
didn't you recently put in a basement door?
If so,
How many steps in that well?
could one, erect a pulley, or rent one, that would allow the coaxing of 
the pig up and out to a place where it might be safer to swing a sledge? I 
may be overcautious here, but bouncing shrap might find you safer doing 
this  outside than insdie.






On Tue, 4 May 2010, wstep...@everestkc.net wrote:

> Dan:  I thought it would be really cool to use a cutting torch too, until I 
> actualy did it.  I cut a gear shift handle out of an old deralict truck, and 
> it's the only time I can recall actually being scared of a tool.  It's loud, 
> and obviously you're going to need gloves a hood and a mask, and it's really 
> hard to tell where you're actually cutting.  I had a sighted flunky er 
> employee standing by to give directions, and I still managed to set the floor 
> mats on fire.  And, that much cast iron would take a mighty long time to cut 
> anyway.  I vote for shattering the thing.  Not only willl you accomplish your 
> aim, but it could be a great stress reliever.  Maybe it could be a 
> neighborhood thing, a case of beer or so, and invite the neighbors to come 
> and show off how much arm strength and how well they can use a sledge.  I'd 
> say a sixteen pound sledge would be about right for this, and then too, one 
> of them is bound to have some kind of vehicle to use for disposing of the 
> debris wh
 en
> you're done.
>
>
> Bill Stephan
> Kansas Citty MO
> Email: wstep...@everestkc.net
> Phone: (816)803-2469
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: Dan Rossi 
> Date: Tuesday, May 4, 2010 7:30 am
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Freakin termites.
>> Max wrote with regard to the removal of my cast iron radiator:
>>
>>> I'm betting that you will end up cutting it into smaller pieces
>> to get rid
>>> of it.  Maybe with a cutting torch?
>>
>> OOO BABY!  Now that sounds like fun.
>>
>> --
>> Blue skies.
>> Dan Rossi
>> Carnegie Mellon University.
>> E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
>> Tel: (412) 268-9081
>>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Diagnosing a doorbell

[Spiro]

fishing all that wire sounds like a giant waste of time. Aren't there more 
"wireless" solutions that do not sound like a cheap video game?





On Mon, 3 May 2010, Max Robinson wrote:

> I respectfully disagree.  The voltage to a doorbell is either 16 or 24 volts
> always AC.  The transformer has two terminals as noted.  The bell has three
> terminals,  One is common.  The second is the two chime sounder and the
> third one is the one chime sounder. One connection on the transformer goes
> to the common on the bell.  The other terminal on the transformer goes to
> both buttons.  The return from each button goes to the remaining two
> terminals on the bell.  Usually the front door goes to the two chime sounder
> and the back door goes to the one chime sounder.  You may have to experiment
> to figure out which is the common.  You will need assistance to push the
> buttons anyway so if that help is sighted you might as well have her read
> the labels on the bell box.
>
> Regards.
>
> Max.  K 4 O D S.
>
> Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com
>
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>
> To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
> funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>
> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Bob Kennedy" 
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 8:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Diagnosing a doorbell
>
>
>> The voltage should be 12 volts DC.  I don't know which terminals are live
>> or ground though.  You can tape over the bear wires to the point you only
>> have a bit more than the hook at the ends.  Then have someone work the
>> door bell, or tape a couple coins to the button to keep it live.  Then you
>> can make the individual contacts and see which way works.
>>
>>
>>  - Original Message -
>>  From: Art Rizzino
>>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>>  Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 8:32 PM
>>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Diagnosing a doorbell
>>
>>
>>
>>  I would like guidance diagnosing my house two door doorbell setup. The
>> wiring always looked shaky to me. Today I was coming down out of the attic
>> and my shirt got caught on the door bell wires and pulled them apart. Well
>> I guess this is the time to figure out the system and make better
>> connections than twisting wires together and let exposed bear wires
>> dangle. This is how it was when we bought the house.
>>
>>  The front door you hear two tones and the side door there is one tone.
>>
>>  I assume each door's button should have two wires coming from it.
>>
>>  The doorbell box has four wires in two pairs of two wires. There are
>> three terminals in the doorbell box, the center terminal has two wires one
>> from each set. What is the center terminal, negative or positive?
>>
>>  What might be the voltage required to activate one of the doorbells?
>>
>>  There is what I assume is an AC to DC transformer included in the system.
>> This little box only has two terminals on it, is this a typically a steady
>> DC voltage supply?
>>
>>  What might be the correct way to connect the wires for such a system?
>>
>>  Ideas, guidance and suggestions welcome.
>>
>>  Thanks.
>>
>>  Art
>>
>>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>> Or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>> List Members At The Following address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>>
>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>
>> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
>> address for more information:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>> list just send a blank message to:
>> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy

[Spiro]

yeah, you're right.
Great story.





On Sun, 2 May 2010, Bill Gallik wrote:

> Spiro wrote:
> "never show how easy it is, they don't."
>
> But what you do when you need their eyeballs to help get the job done?
>
> Reminds me of a story my Grandfather Visocky used to tell me about his father 
> (my great-grandfather Visocky).
>
> Seems that my Great-Grandfather Visocky was a major in the Austrian Imperial 
> Army and being a commissioned officer naturally was able to read.  From the 
> story, one of Major Visocky's troops had gotten a letter from his girlfriend 
> or wife -- at any rate it was a feminine significant other of some sort.  
> Since this trooper could not himself read he approached my Great-Grandfather 
> with the following request, "Sir, would you please read this letter to me?  
> And please don't listen?"
>
> 
> Holland's Person, Bill
> E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
> - "With most men, unbelief in one thing springs from blind belief in another."
> - German Aphorist, Georg Christoph Lichtenberg (1742 - 1799)
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy

[Spiro]

never show how easy it is, they don't.
they'd rather be thanked and so would you.





On Fri, 30 Apr 2010, RJ wrote:

> Today, after months of my wife saying the water pressure in the house is a
> trickle. Kept telling her that on well water that is as good as it gets.
> Today she went to the grandkid soccer game and I decided after all these
> months she was right, but I am unable to read the pressure gauge, so I had
> to wait until she came home to read the thing. Got out my socket wrenches
> and turn up the pressure from 40 PSI to 60 PSI and when she seen how simple
> it was, I was in trouble. But after she takes her shower, maybe I will be
> forgiven.
> smile
>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
> just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] touch friendly phone

[Spiro]

There are phones with buttons almost the size of two postage stamps.
They are large smoth buttons that could be further adapted by a user.
Or a (us coin) "nickle" sized rounded raised button with a little texture 
version that I've seen.





On Fri, 30 Apr 2010, Lenny McHugh wrote:

> I just received an email from an old friend. Not only blind but lost his
> sense of touch. He is looking for a phone that he might be able to use. He
> did give up his computer. Here is part of his email:
> Is there a phone that is blind friendly and keypad friendly?
> I have been unable to find one due to the nature of my blindness and
> I don't have the sense of touch anymore.
>
> ---
> Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
> with many resources for the blind.
> http://www.lennymchugh.com
> Lenny
> Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
> addressing.
> Help stop identity theft.
>
>
> __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature 
> database 5076 (20100430) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
> just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock?

[Spiro]

that's what I'd say.
A good locksmith could do that, coming out to your home. Otherwise, you 
might have to rely on that better half taking them all to the hardware 
store to do that for ya. Might be easier to just get it done on location.





On Fri, 23 Apr 2010, Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press wrote:

> Aloha Claudia,
> Your better half? Obviously he isn't the one
> carrying all the *** into the house.
> Perhaps you could have all the locks keyed to the same key?
> Betsy
>
> At 10:00 AM 4/23/2010, you wrote:
>> Wow,
>>
>> Everything sounds so high tech.
>> At my job, we have swipe cards; we have to swipe
>> them downward, against the door, in order to get into the building.
>>
>> On a personal level, I was thinking about
>> expediting the process of getting into my home.
>> My better half wasn't thinking when he had the
>> locks installed. You have to use two keys to
>> open four different locks, on both the front door and side entrance.
>> This is a pain in the a**, when you have a child
>> in toe, hands full of groceries, work-related crap, etc.
>> I just want to pear down the process that it
>> takes for us, to unlock the door and get into the house.
>> SOmetimes, I feel a little leery about stadning out there too long!
>>
>> Claudia
>> - Original Message -
>> From: wstep...@everestkc.net
>> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>> Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 4:35 PM
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock?
>>
>> Tom: I'm not 100% sure about this, but I believe
>> the thing is a flat see-through pannel with a
>> display of numbers. So the individual has to
>> touch the numbers corresponding to his/her
>> password. In addition to that, we have badges
>> that are probably similar to what you folks have
>> that are supposed to be presented to some kind of device.
>>
>> Bill Stephan
>> Kansas Citty MO
>> Email: wstep...@everestkc.net
>> Phone: (816)803-2469
>>
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Tom Fowle <fo...@ski.org>
>> Date: Thursday, April 22, 2010 3:15 pm
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock?
>>> So if the buttons are scrambled, then the sightlings must have to
>>> look at
>>> some display to get the scramble each time, thus standing there
>>> puzzling
>>> over how to manage that task, giving the bad guys even more time
>>> to watch
>>> and see what is being entered.
>>>
>>> Where i work we have key cards you bring near an antenna,
>>> no contact required. but that requires a whole mess of
>>> electronics and a
>>> computer to manage it with and cost tens of thousands of bucks
>>>
>>> Since most people are too lazy to take the card from there pocket
>>> to
>>> present it to the antenna, you see scientists and doctors doing a
>>> little
>>> "but dance" rite there in the street to get in. It's
>>> pretty funny.
>>>
>>> tom Fowle
>>>
>>> On Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 02:41:09PM -0500,
>> wstep...@everestkc.net
>>> wrote:> I work in a secure facility which is currently having its
>>> systems updated. We used to have key pads at secure points of
>>> entry, then the security lads figured out that it was possible to
>>> isolate the four keys being used by the amount of wear on the
>>> buttons. So, we're getting scramble pads, where the layout of the
>>> key pad changes after every use. Needless to say, this is not
>>> useable for blinks, so I have to have a special access card. So
>>> if anybody's thinking about key pads, be aware and watch out for
>>> the scrambled ones.



 Bill Stephan
 Kansas Citty MO
 Email: wstep...@everestkc.net
 Phone: (816)803-2469


 - Original Message -
 From: Tom Fowle <fo...@ski.org>
 Date: Thursday, April 22, 2010 1:59 pm
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock?
> I would never consider any electronic device to be as reliable
>>> as
> a simple
> key and lock.
>
> Also as a bat, one must consider howlikely it could be that
> somebody could
> watch you enter your pass code without your knowing.
>
> And you need a key available somehow if the battery fails.
>
> Also would need to check how hard, or accessible, changing the
> code is to do
> if someone undesirable gets hold of it.
>
> Sounds like making something simple harder to no purpose.
>
> Tom Fowle
>
> On Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 11:32:42AM -0500, Claudia wrote:
>> Does anybody know how reliable these things are?
>>
>> I've just been researching, and apparently, there are others
> that recognize your fingerprint?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Brice Mijares
>> To:
>> blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>> Sent: Thursday, April 22

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Bissell fixed

[Spiro]

Sounds similar to the underside of the orick.
The electrolux allows by slip connector the replacement of motors and 
such.
I still don't like the use of belts.
But understand why they are used.





On Fri, 23 Apr 2010, Lenny McHugh wrote:

> Well, I just took the Bissell upholstery attachment apart. There were no
> springs to pop out but a gear that Karen had to find for me. It is now fixed
> but do not expect it to last very long. The vacuum motor was stuck and it is
> in molded plastic. I was able to get a little triflow to help free it.
> That thing is quite interesting. On the side of the vacuum motor is a gear
> about 3/8 inch then the one that I lost about 3/4 inch on one side and a 1/4
> inch gear molded to it. The 3/4 mates with the motor and the 1/4 mates with
> one about 1 1/4 inch. There is about a 1 inch that is molded to the large
> one and a toothed belt goes from the 1 inch gear to the brush. The only
> access to any internal parts is to replace the belt. It is definitely a very
> interesting setup.
> ---
> Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
> with many resources for the blind.
> http://www.lennymchugh.com
> Lenny
> Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
> addressing.
> Help stop identity theft.
>
>
> __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature 
> database 5053 (20100423) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
> just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock?

[spiro]

Hi,
Often times they are a keypad entry. Though they could be a swipe card or 
retinal recognizition. What does the commercial say?



On Thu, 22 Apr 2010, Claudia wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I've been hearing commercials lately, about a keyless entry lock?
> What is this, and can anyone describe it for me?
> Thanks.
>
> Claudia
>
>
>
> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5049 (20100422) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Slightly of topic

[Spiro]

I used to get mine from staples.




On Tue, 20 Apr 2010, frank cunningham wrote:

> Howdy All, I have accumulated several cassette tapes on handyman stuff.  I
> am looking for a place to purchasecassette storage containers shapped like a
> book which could hold as many as 12 tapes. (six on each side that would fold
> close like a book... They would then store nicely in my bookcase...
> could someone please tell me where I could locate them...
> Thanks, in advanced...
>
> Frank
>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] getting black from cane handle

[Spiro]

Well in my shop currently I have PVC in 2.5 inch flat. That means it's 
circumference is 5 inch
If I divide that by pi I ge a diameter of 1.591.
I'm sure there is larger heat shrink. However I know two things about poly 
olaphan.
1. It takes less heat to shrink. this is good as larger diameters take 
slightly increased temps.
2. Poly Olephan is a 4/1 shrink where as PVC is a 2/1shrink. So you won't 
have to heat it long to get it to snug.
Call McMaster Carr they seem to have goth packs of 6 6 inch pieces and 25 
ft rolls of most of this.
hope that helps





On Sat, 17 Apr 2010, Lenny McHugh wrote:

> Now, I really have to see the cane. Does heat shrink come large enough to go
> over the handle? Also I never heard of clear duct tape but some heavy duty
> packing tape might work.
> - Original Message -
> From: "Spiro" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 10:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] getting black from cane handle
>
>
> Ah, how about a low temperature heat shrink?
> A poly-olaphan (spelling) should be
> a. less slippery than PVC or Teflon
> b. low enough temp that it will not melt the handle underneath
> C. be a complete barrier over the deteriorating sponge grip.
> If the sponge grip is not destroyed, it will provide  cushion as well.
> Otherwise, maybe a stick on saran wrap type material?
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, 17 Apr 2010, Lenny McHugh wrote:
>
>> I did not see the cane. I also thought about a glove but last week we had
>> 90
>> degree weather. So I did not suggest that.
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press" 
>> To: 
>> Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 7:56 PM
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] getting black from cane handle
>>
>>
>> Lenny,
>> Would it be possible to replace the black with a white? Sounds like a
>> cheap grip. The only other thing I can think of is to wear a glove.
>> Betsy
>> At 01:51 PM 4/17/2010, you wrote:
>>> A friend of my wife is now using a support cane. The black grip similar
>>> to
>>> that of my old white cane is making her hand black. She asked me how can
>>> she
>>> prevent that. I thought about suggesting wrapping it with some cloth but
>>> wonder if there is a better way. Any suggestions?
>>> ---
>>> Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
>>> with many resources for the blind.
>>> http://www.lennymchugh.com
>>> Lenny
>>> Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
>>> addressing.
>>> Help stop identity theft.
>>>
>>>
>>> __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
>>> signature database 5036 (20100417) __
>>>
>>> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>>>
>>> http://www.eset.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>>> Or
>>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>>
>>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>>
>>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
>>> Various List Members At The Following address:
>>> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>>>
>>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>>
>>> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the
>>> following address for more information:
>>> http://www.jaws-users.com/
>>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy
>>> Man list just send a blank message to:
>>> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:2

Re: [BlindHandyMan] getting black from cane handle

[Spiro]

Ah, how about a low temperature heat shrink?
A poly-olaphan (spelling) should be
a. less slippery than PVC or Teflon
b. low enough temp that it will not melt the handle underneath
C. be a complete barrier over the deteriorating sponge grip.
If the sponge grip is not destroyed, it will provide  cushion as well.
Otherwise, maybe a stick on saran wrap type material?




On Sat, 17 Apr 2010, Lenny McHugh wrote:

> I did not see the cane. I also thought about a glove but last week we had 90
> degree weather. So I did not suggest that.
> - Original Message -
> From: "Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 7:56 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] getting black from cane handle
>
>
> Lenny,
> Would it be possible to replace the black with a white? Sounds like a
> cheap grip. The only other thing I can think of is to wear a glove.
> Betsy
> At 01:51 PM 4/17/2010, you wrote:
>> A friend of my wife is now using a support cane. The black grip similar to
>> that of my old white cane is making her hand black. She asked me how can
>> she
>> prevent that. I thought about suggesting wrapping it with some cloth but
>> wonder if there is a better way. Any suggestions?
>> ---
>> Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
>> with many resources for the blind.
>> http://www.lennymchugh.com
>> Lenny
>> Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
>> addressing.
>> Help stop identity theft.
>>
>>
>> __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
>> signature database 5036 (20100417) __
>>
>> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>>
>> http://www.eset.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Send any questions regarding list management to:
>> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>> Or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
>> Various List Members At The Following address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>>
>> Visit the archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>>
>> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the
>> following address for more information:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy
>> Man list just send a blank message to:
>> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> 
>
> Send any questions regarding list management to:
> blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
> just send a blank message to:
> blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
> __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
> database 5036 (20100417) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
>
> __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature 
> database 5036 (20100417) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
>

RE: [BlindHandyMan] needle threaders

[Spiro]

only if the pizza will deliver there right?




On Thu, 15 Apr 2010, Tom Hodges wrote:

> Jim, are you telling us the fishing is so bad, you do a little crocheting
> while you're waiting for a bite?
>
>
>
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of jim
> Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 11:27 AM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] needle threaders
>
>
>
>
>
> hi cliff
> you might get a number 12 or 14 chrochett hook
> they hold up alot longer than a needle threader.
> i have one in each of my tackle boxes.
> jim in minnesota
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: handywoman question- needle threaders

[Spiro]

anytime we can replace a standard market product with that of what a 
limited market such as that of "blindness" we are doing all consumers a 
favor.





On Wed, 14 Apr 2010, Jennifer Jackson wrote:

> I use the dental floss threaders, called dental loops I think, to thread my 
> surger.
>
> They are just sometimes to big for the eye of standard needles.
>
> Jennifer
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: lvmumford
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 11:09 AM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: handywoman question- needle threaders
>
>
>
>  Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I remember using the wire loop 
> threaders when I could see-- I just wasn't sure how easy it was to find the 
> eye of the needle with one when you can't see anymore. Do you think nylon 
> floss threaders would work, too?The kind that have a loop that you pass floss 
> through ? I wonder if the floss threader is thin enough to pass through an 
> eye of the needle-- not loop first but the other end first just like you 
> would use it to thread floss underneath a bridge. I have plenty of these 
> floss threaders but no needle to check out this hypothesis yet.
>
>  Linda
>  Thanks but I'll
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders

[Spiro]

I would imagine that the thinner twist ties, stripped, would work as well.





On Wed, 14 Apr 2010, Jennifer Jackson wrote:

> What is fuse wire?
>
> Jennifer
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Jewel
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:59 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders
>
>
>
>  Linda! You can make your own by taking a short length of fuse wire and 
> doubling it. Put the thread
>  in the elbow and poke it through the eye in the needle. The wire will take 
> the thread through and
>  then all you need to do is hold the thread and slip the fuse wire off it.
>  This is, virtually, the same as the ones you can get from blind equipment 
> places with the exception
>  that the little piece of tin to which the fuse wire is attached is not 
> there, and it is not
>  necessary anyway.
>
>  Jewel - Original Message -
>  From: "lvmumford" 
>  To: 
>  Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:15 AM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders
>
>  I need to do some hand sewing and would like some advice about needle 
> threaders. I am completely
>  blind and I know there are needle threaders out there but don't know whick 
> ones are the most blind
>  user friendly.
>  Much thanks,
>  Linda
>
>  
>
>  Send any questions regarding list management to:
>  blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
>  To listen to the show archives go to link
>  
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
>  Or
>  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
>  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
>  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The
>  Following address:
>  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
>  Visit the archives page at the following address
>  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
>  If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
> address for more
>  information:
>  http://www.jaws-users.com/
>  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
> just send a blank
>  message to:
>  blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
>
>  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 5026 (20100413)
>  __
>
>  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>  http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

RE: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders

[Spiro]

sounds like fuse wire, or fshing line is good enough. After the shipping 
you could buy a lot of wire than to give to the likes of Maxi.





On Wed, 14 Apr 2010, Debbie SokolMcKay wrote:

> You might want to try the butler floss threader.  They would appear the same
> as what you are trying to make with thin fishing line.  Because the plastic
> is a little thicker the floss threaders will only work with larger eyed
> needles.  I think Singer makes packaged larger eyed needles but since I am
> on the road I cannot check  my sewing kit. I have purchased these threaders
> through Maxi Aids.  I imagine that the floss threaders are available through
> other means but I have not made an attempt to find other retailers.
>
>
>
> Debbie
>
>
>
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Spiro
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 10:20 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders
>
>
>
>
>
> the metal loop type are the easiest. However, thin thin fishing line is
> also very good.
> Take a 6 inch piece of the thinest fishing line in the sporting shop. tie
> it in a loop, and then squeeze what would be the point of the loop into a
> point.
> You can shove that point through the eye of the needle, put your thread
> through what goes through the eye and then pull it back out, which carries
> your thread through the eye.
> You'll bhave a box of threader for years and or may choose to make up a
> bunch of them at once.
> That's what i did.
>
> On Tue, 13 Apr 2010, lvmumford wrote:
>
>> I need to do some hand sewing and would like some advice about needle
> threaders. I am completely blind and I know there are needle threaders out
> there but don't know whick ones are the most blind user friendly.
>> Much thanks,
>> Linda
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

RE: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders

[Spiro]

the split eye needle will not easily let the thread back out as it is a 
mini lobster clasp not just a V.
i forgot about these.





On Tue, 13 Apr 2010, Dave Andrus wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have used two types of  needle threaders. My least favorite is the split
> head needle. Rather than a hole or eye, it has a V at the top. You place the
> thread in the V and then pull down hard. It spreads the V and the thread
> goes into the eye of the needle. I was always afraid that when sewing it
> would pull back out the very way it went in. That never happened to me but I
> saw the potential.
>
> The second type is the type I almost always use. It has two parts. First is
> the handle. The one I have is flat and oblong. It is the size of a penny but
> more oval. Then the second part is a very fine but stiff wire. The wire is a
> loop  that is about the circumference of a penny. It however is pinched to a
> point on the farthest distance away from that flat handle.
>
> You guide this thin wire through the eye of the needle. Once through you
> open up the wire into a circle. Most fingers are then able to put a thread
> through this big circle, again about the size of a penny. Once the thread is
> through the wire loop, you pull the wire back through the eye, which in
> turns pulls the thread through the eye as well. Then you can pull as much
> thread through as you want, tie it off, cut the thread  and begin sewing.
>
> I hope this description helps.
>
> And lastly you might ask where to get either of these items. I haven't a
> clue. I would guess a sewing store or perhaps one of the independent living
> source on line or by phone.
>
> Dave A.
>
> P.s. My wife says that she knew she could marry me because I proudly once
> told her I can sew on my own buttons. Silly me. You guessed it. I still sew
> on my own buttons 30 years later.
>
>
>
> Working together, sharing the light of salvation seen through the cross of
> Jesus
>
> Rev. Dave Andrus, Director
> Lutheran Blind Mission
> 888 215 2455
> HTTP://WWW.BLINDMISSION.ORG
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of lvmumford
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 8:15 AM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders
>
>
>
> I need to do some hand sewing and would like some advice about needle
> threaders. I am completely blind and I know there are needle threaders out
> there but don't know whick ones are the most blind user friendly.
> Much thanks,
> Linda
>
>
>
>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders

[Spiro]

the metal loop type are the easiest. However, thin thin fishing line is 
also very good.
Take a 6 inch piece of the thinest fishing line in the sporting shop. tie 
it in a loop, and then squeeze what would be the point of the loop into a 
point.
You can shove that point through the eye of the needle, put your thread 
through what goes through the eye and then pull it back out, which carries 
your thread through the eye.
You'll bhave a box of threader for years and or may choose to make up a 
bunch of them at once.
That's what i did.





On Tue, 13 Apr 2010, lvmumford wrote:

> I need to do some hand sewing and would like some advice about needle 
> threaders. I am completely blind and I know there are needle threaders out 
> there but don't know whick ones are the most blind user friendly.
> Much thanks,
> Linda
>
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice pleas

[Spiro]

I've had mine mostly strapped down that way for years.
yes, it can throw what is left of a finger tip right into your eye. And 
unfortunately you got what I never had. but it can toss stuff well also. i 
work with it drawing the belt away from me. It's a 3x24 Makita from more 
than 20 years ago.
It can toss a board like a spear. goofy doing it that way I guess; but I 
don't have a big belt table and need the stability. I've done some nice 
custom shaping. of wood and plastic and a little of metal.
but those course belts feel like a punch if they touch skin.





On Mon, 12 Apr 2010, Dale Leavens wrote:

> I often set mine in a vice to use as a stationery sander but I don't much 
> like it that way. I once caught the edge of my thumb just where the belt 
> disappears under the rear. Full skin thickness removal instantly. Not nice!
>
> I really would like a belt disk sanding station but need to check a few out 
> before I buy.
>
> If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Spiro
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 3:35 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice pleas
>
>
>
>  guess the stuff in that bag could catch fire?
>  I use my belt sander for loads of things. I have it tied down, upside down
>  onto a table.
>  Love it!
>
>  On Mon, 12 Apr 2010, Dale Leavens wrote:
>
>  > Hi Carl,
>  >
>  > I have an axe file I usually use to begin with. I sharpen a bevel from the 
> trailing side of the hoe fairly steep about 45 degrees so the edge will be 
> thicker. I have been known to use my belt sander if I need to take a log of 
> material to clear chips from the edge of a spade or square nose chisel which 
> usually results in burning holes in the dust collecting bag. I also have a 
> length of Whetstone to finish the edge.
>  >
>  > When using a file to sharpen something like an axe or hoe stroke it 
> sideways, that is, don't run the teeth up and down but slide the file 
> sideways along the edge more like you would stroke a knife blade with a knife 
> steel. This takes the steel down fairly fast and remarkably evenly. It does 
> leave a burr so I use the stone to finish that off.
>  >
>  > Hope that is helpful.
>  >
>  >
>  > If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
>  > - Original Message -
>  > From: Carl
>  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com ; blind-garde...@yahoogroups.com
>  > Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 12:31 PM
>  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] advice pleas
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  > how can i sharpen a hoe? for getting rid of the grass that groes up 
> between the paveing slabs?
>  >
>  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>  >
>  >
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] sharpiningg metherds question

[Spiro]

diamond stones can be really cool.





On Mon, 12 Apr 2010, Carl wrote:

> iwhat is a wet stone i hav onley used dimond and oial stones?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice pleas

[Spiro]

guess the stuff in that bag could catch fire?
I use my belt sander for loads of things. I have it tied down, upside down 
onto a table.
Love it!





On Mon, 12 Apr 2010, Dale Leavens wrote:

> Hi Carl,
>
> I have an axe file I usually use to begin with. I sharpen a bevel from the 
> trailing side of the hoe fairly steep about 45 degrees so the edge will be 
> thicker. I have been known to use my belt sander if I need to take a log of 
> material to clear chips from the edge of a spade or square nose chisel which 
> usually results in burning holes in the dust collecting bag. I also have a 
> length of Whetstone to finish the edge.
>
> When using a file to sharpen something like an axe or hoe stroke it sideways, 
> that is, don't run the teeth up and down but slide the file sideways along 
> the edge more like you would stroke a knife blade with a knife steel. This 
> takes the steel down fairly fast and remarkably evenly. It does leave a burr 
> so I use the stone to finish that off.
>
> Hope that is helpful.
>
>
> If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Carl
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com ; blind-garde...@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 12:31 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] advice pleas
>
>
>
>  how can i sharpen a hoe? for getting rid of the grass that groes up between 
> the paveing slabs?
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] For Every project, a mistake

[Spiro]

recently I tried to get one last use out of a bottle of glue that had 
almost dried. Same thickening at the bottom as yours not stirred.
Didn't work. No go, had to remove the next step and start over. Good for 
learning.





On Sun, 11 Apr 2010, Tom Vos wrote:

> To complete the subject line,
>
> For every project, a mistake to learn from.
>
> Or so it seems.
>
> This project is a dresser hutch combination that has to be ready for use as
> a grand daughter   change table.  She's due on Friday this week.
>
> It needed to be very dark to match the crib.
>
> I used a two part water base stain, first a dark under coat, then a top coat
> of the final stain.
>
> My mistake came when I was putting polyurethane on it.
>
> I spread poly thinned down half and half with mineral spirits.  Works well.
>
> My mistake came when I got down to the end of the can of poly, and noticed
> that I had not stirred up all the gunk from the bottom of the can when I
> started.
>
> Without thinking, I dumped in some extra mineral spirits and stirred it up.
>
> The next coat had a lot of milky streaks in it.  I couldn't see them, but my
> wife had to keep telling me, "It's not right!"
>
> Once it dawned on me what had happened, I got a new can of poly.
>
> But we had to sand down the pieces that had the streaks.
>
> By then we were starting to wear through the stain.  Fortunately it worked
> to spread a new layer of stain, even though it was a water based stain, over
> top of whatever stain and poly was still on the pieces.
>
> Now my wife pronounces them to be good.
>
> Since the basement is cool and getting more damp, she let me take over the
> dining room and family room for the finishing.  What a wife!
>
> Hope you can learn from my mistake.
>
> Blessings,
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others,

[Spiro]

entirelyagree.
I've done the baking soda over night, letting it drip dry.
It's definitely that metal smell, and nothing is coming off of the lid 
gasket as far as scent.
So I'm on it.
alka seltzer tonight if not finished, no vinegar in the house after 
daughter did her easter eggs.
Thanks again.
I knew you folks would know.
What better tool is there than the industrial thermos. Coffee is also 
known as happy give a s.




On Fri, 9 Apr 2010, Dale Leavens wrote:

> Sometimes the smells seem to get stuck to the rubber seals or the stopper and 
> not so much the stainless steel. The other trouble is truly scrubbing them 
> out. One should probably use a bottle brush and then there is the problem of 
> rinsing out the smell of dish washing detergent.
>
> I have one I sometimes use when I am outside all day working. I find the best 
> way to keep it fresh smelling is to empty it fully and rinse it a couple of 
> times then storing it empty with the lid off open to the air so it dries 
> thoroughly over night or what ever.
>
> Of course a glass vacuum flask is the best but the liners tend to be fragile. 
> I broke many back when I used one going to school, a smack on a fence post or 
> fire plug on the way by and off to the store for a replacement liner.
>
>
> If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Spiro
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 8:46 PM
>  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others,
>
>
>
>  Well, thanks. I'm hoping it goes down to the metal taste of the stainless.
>  but what's the sense of having a 24oz thermos if you can't put exotic
>  coffee made from filtered water in it? grins
>
>  On Fri, 9 Apr 2010, Trouble wrote:
>
>  > Put some baking soda in it along with some warm
>  > water. Let it set for a few days and repeat. That should get it all out.
>  > I use that trick after leaving tea in after a
>  > fishing trip or when I let my brother use it for work and his coffee.
>  >
>  > At 06:20 PM 4/9/2010, you wrote:
>  >>
>  >>
>  >> Try soaking it with water and a couple tablespoons of baking soda
>  >> - Original Message -
>  >> From: Spiro
>  >> To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  >> Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 17:58
>  >> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others,
>  >>
>  >> Hi,
>  >> Maybe it took too long, but I finally got my Handyman thermos Two weeks
>  >> ago.
>  >> Steel, double walled with a 12oz steel cup.
>  >> I'm saving $2 a day and it can take a beating.
>  >> I'm sure to have it with me more than just to my non-fix-it job but
>  >> thankfully to any outside project.
>  >> However, Dan and others, it has that very familiar Canteen smell.
>  >> You guys must know that smell.
>  >> I've used it now for 8 days, and that smell went away for the most part
>  >> after 5. But is was heavily in the coffee. It's still there, and I'm
>  >> thinking $2 a day (makes the coffee cost $33.90 a pound at D&D) is
>  >> starting to sound good as I'm not happy with that as a taste in my fine
>  >> etheopean coffee from home.
>  >> Help, what gets that smell out of a canteen or steel liquids vessel?
>  >> Thanks
>  >>
>  >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>  >>
>  >>
>  >
>  > Tim
>  > trouble
>  > Verizon FIOS support tech
>  > "Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance."
>  > --Sam Brown
>  >
>  > Blindeudora list owner.
>  > To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora
>  >
>  >
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others,

[Spiro]

Well, thanks. I'm hoping it goes down to the metal taste of the stainless.
but what's the sense of having a 24oz thermos if you can't put exotic 
coffee made from filtered water in it? grins




On Fri, 9 Apr 2010, Trouble wrote:

> Put some baking soda in it along with some warm
> water. Let it set for a few days and repeat. That should get it all out.
> I use that trick after leaving tea in after a
> fishing trip or when I let my brother use it for work and his coffee.
>
> At 06:20 PM 4/9/2010, you wrote:
>>
>>
>> Try soaking it with water and a couple tablespoons of baking soda
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Spiro
>> To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>> Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 17:58
>> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others,
>>
>> Hi,
>> Maybe it took too long, but I finally got my Handyman thermos Two weeks
>> ago.
>> Steel, double walled with a 12oz steel cup.
>> I'm saving $2 a day and it can take a beating.
>> I'm sure to have it with me more than just to my non-fix-it job but
>> thankfully to any outside project.
>> However, Dan and others, it has that very familiar Canteen smell.
>> You guys must know that smell.
>> I've used it now for 8 days, and that smell went away for the most part
>> after 5. But is was heavily in the coffee. It's still there, and I'm
>> thinking $2 a day (makes the coffee cost $33.90 a pound at D&D) is
>> starting to sound good as I'm not happy with that as a taste in my fine
>> etheopean coffee from home.
>> Help, what gets that smell out of a canteen or steel liquids vessel?
>> Thanks
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>
> Tim
> trouble
> Verizon FIOS support tech
> "Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance."
> --Sam Brown
>
> Blindeudora list owner.
> To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others,

[Spiro]

thanks Dale, and RJ.
there is baking soda. We'll give it a try.





On Fri, 9 Apr 2010, Dale Leavens wrote:

> You might try dissolving some baking soda in water and filling the bottle and 
> leaving it sit over night, maybe over the week-end.
>
>
> If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Spiro
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 5:58 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others,
>
>
>
>  Hi,
>  Maybe it took too long, but I finally got my Handyman thermos Two weeks
>  ago.
>  Steel, double walled with a 12oz steel cup.
>  I'm saving $2 a day and it can take a beating.
>  I'm sure to have it with me more than just to my non-fix-it job but
>  thankfully to any outside project.
>  However, Dan and others, it has that very familiar Canteen smell.
>  You guys must know that smell.
>  I've used it now for 8 days, and that smell went away for the most part
>  after 5. But is was heavily in the coffee. It's still there, and I'm
>  thinking $2 a day (makes the coffee cost $33.90 a pound at D&D) is
>  starting to sound good as I'm not happy with that as a taste in my fine
>  etheopean coffee from home.
>  Help, what gets that smell out of a canteen or steel liquids vessel?
>  Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others,

[Spiro]

so the vinegar will take the steel taste out of the new thermos?





On Fri, 9 Apr 2010, Rick Hume wrote:

> If you use one of the numerous drip coffee makers, you could run some vinegar 
> thru it, which would help keep the lime from building up in it, and then pour 
> the hot vinegar in your thermos and let it sit for a while.  You will need to 
> rinse both well, or you'll be left with a vinegar taste.
>  - Original Message -
>  From: Spiro
>  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 5:58 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others,
>
>
>
>  Hi,
>  Maybe it took too long, but I finally got my Handyman thermos Two weeks
>  ago.
>  Steel, double walled with a 12oz steel cup.
>  I'm saving $2 a day and it can take a beating.
>  I'm sure to have it with me more than just to my non-fix-it job but
>  thankfully to any outside project.
>  However, Dan and others, it has that very familiar Canteen smell.
>  You guys must know that smell.
>  I've used it now for 8 days, and that smell went away for the most part
>  after 5. But is was heavily in the coffee. It's still there, and I'm
>  thinking $2 a day (makes the coffee cost $33.90 a pound at D&D) is
>  starting to sound good as I'm not happy with that as a taste in my fine
>  etheopean coffee from home.
>  Help, what gets that smell out of a canteen or steel liquids vessel?
>  Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Re: [BlindHandyMan] ladder hooks

[Spiro]

I used large molly's to affix 12 inch wide 14 inch high shelf braces to 
cinder block and have about 80 lbs of long boards on them. Almost anything 
said to hold the weight should work.
Be glad it's not loft storage.





On Thu, 8 Apr 2010, Dan Rossi wrote:

> Get a couple of hooks and just use some big TapCon screws to fasten them
> to the wall.  Make sure you drill into the brick or block and not the
> mortar joints.
>
> You'll need a hammer drill, but the TapCons should come with the proper
> sized masonry bit.
>
> You should be able to find large Aluminum tubes bent into hooks for this
> purpose.  I used something like these to hang my tandem bike from the
> joists in the basement.  Any big box store should have them.
>
> -- 
> Blue skies.
> Dan Rossi
> Carnegie Mellon University.
> E-Mail:   d...@andrew.cmu.edu
> Tel:  (412) 268-9081
>