Re: [BlindHandyMan] grizzly miter gauge

[woodworkingfortheblind]

On the Fine Woodworking magazine website, finewoodworking.com there is a 
section on a Tool Guide that has the reviews and comments of individual tool 
users. Perhaps someone has rated the Grizzly miter gauge.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Lenny  McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Weather permitting, I plan to take a trip to Grizzly tools next week. It is 
> about an hour drive.
> I have a Grizzly table saw, drill press and dust collector.
> I do like their tools and I just found this on their website.
> H3316 
> See larger image  
> Your Price**:
> $54.95
> Description
> This cast iron, 9 pound 3 ounce Miter Gauge with 5" tall, chromed handle and 
> 2-3/8" x 8" miter face is the largest and strongest Miter Gauge on the market.
> The easy-to-read scale allows cutting up to 60º left and right and the 3/8" x 
> 3/4" miter bar with patented adjustment capability removes any side play
> for the ultimate in accuracy. Fits table saws with T-slots and standard 
> slots. 
> 
> I would like to have it in my hand before I purchase it. For that price it is 
> not worth bothering my machinist friend.
> 
> Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] grizzly miter gauge

[woodworkingfortheblind]

I just checked the finewoodworking.com site and found no entries or reviews for 
the Grizzly miter gauge. Sorry.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Lenny  McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Weather permitting, I plan to take a trip to Grizzly tools next week. It is 
> about an hour drive.
> I have a Grizzly table saw, drill press and dust collector.
> I do like their tools and I just found this on their website.
> H3316 
> See larger image  
> Your Price**:
> $54.95
> Description
> This cast iron, 9 pound 3 ounce Miter Gauge with 5" tall, chromed handle and 
> 2-3/8" x 8" miter face is the largest and strongest Miter Gauge on the market.
> The easy-to-read scale allows cutting up to 60º left and right and the 3/8" x 
> 3/4" miter bar with patented adjustment capability removes any side play
> for the ultimate in accuracy. Fits table saws with T-slots and standard 
> slots. 
> 
> I would like to have it in my hand before I purchase it. For that price it is 
> not worth bothering my machinist friend.
> 
> Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting synthetic line

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Carl -- my recent e-mails to you have come back as undeliverable. I'm using the 
same [EMAIL PROTECTED] address. Any suggestions?

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "carlhickson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> lol
> 
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: Dale Leavens 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 11:48 PM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting synthetic line
> 
> 
>   Hi Tom,
> 
>   Can you instruct me in how to tie an eye splice?
> 
>   I believe liquid stiffener is Viagra dissolved in Scotch!
> 
>   Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
>   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>   Skype DaleLeavens
>   Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> 
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: "Tom Fowle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>   To: 
>   Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>   Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 12:31 PM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting synthetic line
> 
>   > dan,
>   > I've heard of the liquid stiffener, but don't think folks use it
>   > much, I seem to recall it is nasty stuff.
>   >
>   > you can do the "fold back" on different lines, called an eye
>   > splice if you actually want a loop there. Some folks do them in
>   > ends of dock lines so you slip them around your dock cleets and
>   > don't have to tie a cleet hitch, but i don't trust an eye on a
>   > cleet, if it can slip on, it can slip off.
>   >
>   >
>   > tom
>   >
>   >
>   > Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered
>   >
>   >
>   > To listen to the show archives go to link
>   > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>   > or
>   > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>   >
>   > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>   > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>   >
>   > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
>   > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>   >
>   > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
>   > List Members At The Following address:
>   > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>   >
>   > Visit the new archives page at the following address
>   > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>   > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
>   > list just send a blank message to:
>   > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>   > Yahoo! Groups Links
>   >
>   >
>   >
>   >
>   >
>   >
>   > -- 
>   > No virus found in this incoming message.
>   > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>   > Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.17.3/642 - Release Date: 20/01/2007
>   >
>   > 
> 
> 
> 
>
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 

[BlindHandyMan] How to Join?

[woodworkingfortheblind]

I am referring a new member to join the Blind Handyman List. When registering 
for the Yahoo Groups, the membership page includes name, address, password, 
etc. but then a security code is printed in curvy letters and the registrant 
must enter that security code in a box. Will screen readers be able to handle 
the curvy letters? If not, what should the registrant do? Thanks for your help, 
Don.

I've enjoyed following some of the discussion on your group list. These guys 
certainly get into some technical details. Way to go!

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> HI list.  I got to tell you   It's all most show time, again.   We have   two 
>  I 
> believe must hear show's  coming to you this week. Two out standing guest.
> First on the handy show,  We talk some about things going on and some mail.   
>  
> are guest this week  guest  is Larry Marten  This is the guy that founded the 
> wood working for the blind audio magazine.   Larry,  tells us about how the 
> magazine,  got started,   what is going on at this time.  a great interview.  
>  
> This guy is doing a fine thing here.   At the end Don Patterson talks about a 
> project.
> ON  the blind like me show this week  Phil  talks with blind like me list 
> member  
> Maureen.  A must hear interview,  What a story this lady has to tell us. 
> They all so play some of a music CD that she recorded.  Tune in on A C B 
> radio, 
> are reading radio services   are download to listen.down load links 
> follow.
> 
> BHM   show   http://www.sendspace.com/file/lyiazi
> 
> BLM   show   http://www.sendspace.com/file/llxxtw
> 
> Regards Don
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to Join?

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Thanks, Mickey.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Mickey Fixsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi Larry.
> 
> No, screen readers will not read the varification letters/numbers that must 
> be 
> entered into an edit field.  One must either use a sighted person to read the 
> characters that appear on the screen, or some web sites have set up a link to 
> a 
> customer service person to help do the job.  It's a pain.
> 
> Mickey
> 
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 11:46 AM
>   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How to Join?
> 
> 
>   I am referring a new member to join the Blind Handyman List. When 
> registering 
> for the Yahoo Groups, the membership page includes name, address, password, 
> etc. 
> but then a security code is printed in curvy letters and the registrant must 
> enter that security code in a box. Will screen readers be able to handle the 
> curvy letters? If not, what should the registrant do? Thanks for your help, 
> Don.
> 
>   I've enjoyed following some of the discussion on your group list. These 
> guys 
> certainly get into some technical details. Way to go!
> 
>   --
>   Larry Martin
>   Woodworking for the Blind
>   --joining the world of blind wood workers
> 
>   -- Original message --
>   From: "Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>   > HI list. I got to tell you It's all most show time, again. We have two I 
>   > believe must hear show's coming to you this week. Two out standing guest.
>   > First on the handy show, We talk some about things going on and some 
> mail. 
>   > are guest this week guest is Larry Marten This is the guy that founded 
> the 
>   > wood working for the blind audio magazine. Larry, tells us about how the 
>   > magazine, got started, what is going on at this time. a great interview. 
>   > This guy is doing a fine thing here. At the end Don Patterson talks about 
> a 
>   > project.
>   > ON the blind like me show this week Phil talks with blind like me list 
> member 
>   > Maureen. A must hear interview, What a story this lady has to tell us. 
>   > They all so play some of a music CD that she recorded. Tune in on A C B 
> radio, 
>   > are reading radio services are download to listen. down load links follow.
>   > 
>   > BHM show http://www.sendspace.com/file/lyiazi
>   > 
>   > BLM show http://www.sendspace.com/file/llxxtw
>   > 
>   > Regards Don
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>   > 
> 
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
>
> 
> 
> --
> 
> 
>   No virus found in this incoming message.
>   Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>   Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.11/652 - Release Date: 1/25/2007 
> 3:32 PM
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to Join?

[woodworkingfortheblind]

thank you.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "David Ferrin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> There is no need at all for anybody who isn't a moderator to register with 
> Yahoo in that manner.  All anybody needs to do if they wish to join this 
> list is send a blank email to the following address:
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Then reply to the confirmation email from Yahoo groups.  That's all there is 
> to joining this list.
> David Ferrin
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 12:46 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How to Join?
> 
> 
> I am referring a new member to join the Blind Handyman List. When 
> registering for the Yahoo Groups, the membership page includes name, 
> address, password, etc. but then a security code is printed in curvy letters 
> and the registrant must enter that security code in a box. Will screen 
> readers be able to handle the curvy letters? If not, what should the 
> registrant do? Thanks for your help, Don.
> 
> I've enjoyed following some of the discussion on your group list. These guys 
> certainly get into some technical details. Way to go!
> 
> --
> Larry Martin
> Woodworking for the Blind
> --joining the world of blind wood workers
> 
>  -- Original message --
> From: "Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > HI list.  I got to tell you   It's all most show time, again.   We have 
> > two  I
> > believe must hear show's  coming to you this week. Two out standing 
> > guest.
> > First on the handy show,  We talk some about things going on and some 
> > mail.
> > are guest this week  guest  is Larry Marten  This is the guy that founded 
> > the
> > wood working for the blind audio magazine.   Larry,  tells us about how 
> > the
> > magazine,  got started,   what is going on at this time.  a great 
> > interview.
> > This guy is doing a fine thing here.   At the end Don Patterson talks 
> > about a
> > project.
> > ON  the blind like me show this week  Phil  talks with blind like me list 
> > member
> > Maureen.  A must hear interview,  What a story this lady has to tell us.
> > They all so play some of a music CD that she recorded.  Tune in on A C B 
> > radio,
> > are reading radio services   are download to listen.down load links 
> > follow.
> >
> > BHM   show   http://www.sendspace.com/file/lyiazi
> >
> > BLM   show   http://www.sendspace.com/file/llxxtw
> >
> > Regards Don
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Armor Your Floor

[woodworkingfortheblind]

What's a rough idea of cost for a two-car garage?

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Ray Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi All
> Armor Your Floor
> 
> Protective floor covers are gaining steam in residential garages and 
> workshops, where homeowners are sick and tired of looking at ugly oil stains 
> and discolored
> concrete. Installing the covering is an easy project you can complete in a 
> single afternoon, and the result is a brand-new surface that's impervious to
> corrosive road materials such as antifreeze, oil, salt and battery acid. 
> Floor protectors reduce dust travel and withstand all sorts of contaminants 
> found
> in the garage and work environments.
> 
> 
> Another plus for floor protectors: Most products are easy to move. They can 
> be cleaned inside or outside of the garage, and the nonporous surface allows
> easy cleanup of oil and antifreeze with soap and water. Vinyl floor cleaners 
> can be used to remove stubborn debris. Floor protectors also provide a 
> moisture
> barrier, reduce noise, hide pre-existing cracks and stains and they last for 
> years. Plus, the ribbed or channeled floor cover provides a slip-resistant
> surface that channels away liquids to reduce the amount of dirt tracked into 
> a home.
> 
> When it comes to floor covers, homeowners have a few different but similar 
> products to choose from. Gladiator Garage Works offers Gladiator Roll 
> Flooring
> that rolls out for easy installation. The wide, 8-foot rolls come in three 
> lengths to fit almost any garage. The floor covering installs in most 
> two-car
> garages in less than two hours.
> 
> Craftsman offers a tile design for its floor covering. The 1/2-inch-thick, 
> 12-inch square tiles, available in four different colors, can be mixed and 
> matched
> and laid onto the floor in a desired pattern. Each solid-surface tile is 
> constructed of durable, high-impact co-polymers and has a suspended 
> peg-construction
> underside that promotes airflow and cushions the floor. No tools, glues or 
> adhesives are required to install. Each tile in the modular system has a 
> female
> loop and male peg that interlock, for a secure fit.
> 
> This article demonstrates the simple installation method of Better Life 
> Technologies' G-Floor Floor Cover/Protector. G-Floor is available in six 
> sharp colors,
> from Midnight Black to Brick Red, and comes in five sizes, from 7-1/2-by-17 
> feet to 10-by-22 feet. Custom sizes and grades are available.
> 
> Thoroughly clean the floor prior to installation.
> 
> Measure carefully when cutting the floor cover to fit around obstructions.
> 
> DIY Installation
> 
> For the G-Floor, the manufacturer notes that the protector will initially 
> have curl marks due to being rolled on a core or folded in a box. For flat 
> results,
> the company recommends the product be unrolled in the sunlight on a clean 
> driveway. The warmer the conditions, the quicker the curls will straighten 
> out
> and lay flat. To facilitate the flattening process, use a wide push broom to 
> push the air out from the center and work your way toward the edges from 
> side
> to side, and length to length.
> 
> Another option is to unroll the cover right in the garage. Either way, wipe 
> up any oil and chemicals from the floor and sweep the garage thoroughly 
> before
> installing. For best results, start unrolling at the garage entrance, 
> finishing at the back of the garage. In cool conditions, it may take up to 
> 72 hours
> for the curl marks to lay flat, but you can still park your car on it during 
> this time.
> 
> For a custom fit, allow the cover to relax in place before trimming around 
> the edges and corners. And believe it or not, that's the gist of the 
> installation:
> Simply unroll, trim to fit and overlap adjoining sections. Taping is 
> optional. If taping the edges or seams, use indoor/outdoor carpet tape.
> 
> In just a couple of hours, you'll have a new surface to park on, play on and 
> work on-and no more ugly floor.
> 
> Simply unroll, trim to fit and overlap adjoining edges (6" or more).
> 
> Trim the covering with a utility knife or scissors.
> 
> Protective floor coverings are available from Better Life Technology (
> www.bltllc.com ),
> Sears/Craftsman, and Gladiator Garage Works. (Photo 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question

[woodworkingfortheblind]

p.s. you also could use either 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch thick plywood. Both would 
have plenty of strength as well as sufficient glue area on the edges. 

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "William Stephan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I've decided to build some boxes that will be used to store CDs in a couple 
> cabinets we have.  These will be simple, just a bottom, and four sides.  I 
> think 
> I want the bottoms and fronts and backs to be 3/4 inches thick.  
> 
> Basically, I'm thinking about either 1x8s or 3/4 inch plywood.  If I use the 
> 1x8s, there's likely to be some waste, whereas if I use plywood, there'll be 
> a 
> lot less.
> 
> My question to you folks then is whether there's a reason not to screw into 
> the 
> edges of plywood.  There's not going to be a lot of stress on these 
> obviously, 
> but I know the center sheets in plywood can be pretty low in grade.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Yes, you can screw into the edges of plywood for your CD boxes since there will 
not be much stress on the butt joint. You also could simply glue the pieces 
together with either yellow or white glue. You would need to clamp the pieces 
for about an hour so that the glue would set up. then wait overnight for it to 
cure before putting any stress on the joint.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "William Stephan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I've decided to build some boxes that will be used to store CDs in a couple 
> cabinets we have.  These will be simple, just a bottom, and four sides.  I 
> think 
> I want the bottoms and fronts and backs to be 3/4 inches thick.  
> 
> Basically, I'm thinking about either 1x8s or 3/4 inch plywood.  If I use the 
> 1x8s, there's likely to be some waste, whereas if I use plywood, there'll be 
> a 
> lot less.
> 
> My question to you folks then is whether there's a reason not to screw into 
> the 
> edges of plywood.  There's not going to be a lot of stress on these 
> obviously, 
> but I know the center sheets in plywood can be pretty low in grade.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] magic question

[woodworkingfortheblind]

You can google "hillbilly wallet." The first item that came up when I did it 
was a description of a craft show where someone was selling the item you 
mentioned. Maybe you could follow up further to see if you could buy one or get 
details on building it.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Lenny  McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Has anyone constructed magic illusions?
> About 20 years ago someone showed me the "hillbilly wallet".
> It was a home made illusion using 3 pieces of plywood about the same size of 
> a 
> dollar bill.
> Basically you put someone's currency between two of the three boards and it 
> vanished. Then it was made to re-appear.
> He was going to send me the plans but never did. I sure would like to add it 
> to 
> my collection.
> If anyone has the plans please send them to me off list to help keep the 
> secret.
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> I never should have dropped my membership from the International Brotherhood 
> of 
> Magicians, IBM.
> I probably could get the plans from that organization.
> 
> Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] magic question

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Here are some more links:

On the following website there are "hillbilly wallets" for sale at $4.49. Go to
http://www.missourimadeproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_reviews&cPath=6&products_id=356

Also a YouTube 9 second clip showing the opeeration of the hillbilly wallet. Go 
to
www.youtube.com/results?search_type=search_videos&search_query=wallet&search_sort=&search_cat...
 - 59k - Supplemental Result

There are more thqan 250 entries about wallets there so once in there you may 
have to go to the bottom of the page and find a search box where you can type 
in "hillbilly wallet" and that will take you to this 9 second video clip 
showing the operation.

Good luck in running it down.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Lenny  McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Has anyone constructed magic illusions?
> About 20 years ago someone showed me the "hillbilly wallet".
> It was a home made illusion using 3 pieces of plywood about the same size of 
> a 
> dollar bill.
> Basically you put someone's currency between two of the three boards and it 
> vanished. Then it was made to re-appear.
> He was going to send me the plans but never did. I sure would like to add it 
> to 
> my collection.
> If anyone has the plans please send them to me off list to help keep the 
> secret.
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> I never should have dropped my membership from the International Brotherhood 
> of 
> Magicians, IBM.
> I probably could get the plans from that organization.
> 
> Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question

[woodworkingfortheblind]

In fact, for small boxes you can use masking tape as clamps. Apply the tape to 
one side, position the second or mating piece, then pull the tape tightly 
across the second piece. There will be sufficient pressure to hold the box 
square in place until the glue sets.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Robert J. Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Until you get some reall clamps I wonder if you could use a wratchet strap,
> if you have one of them.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of William Stephan
> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 4:23 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question
> 
> Thanks Dale, I'm sure that I have also been using too much pressure. I don't
> have real clamps, so I made some out of 1/4 inch threaded rod and wood
> scraps. They work OK, but I get carried away tightening the thing up.
> 
> -Original Message-
> .From: "Dale Leavens"< [EMAIL PROTECTED]  >
> .Sent: 2/9/07 3:56:21 PM
> .To: " blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  "< blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  >
> .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question
> .
> .If you are using carpenters glue don't be afraid of spreading it with a
> .finger. A wet rag will remove it from your fingers. You probably should
> .apply it to both surfaces but it will squeeze out as you clamp that too is
> .usual. You need not apply all that much pressure. Most of us apply too much
> .pressure and squeeze most of the glue out of the joint, don't do that.
> .
> .Finally, wipe away excess glue with a damp rag or begin with a paper towel
> .then finish with a damp rag.
> .
> .Do not apply things like Crazy glue with your fingers or the new moisture
> .curing glues or you will have to wear it off of your hands.
> .
> .For a job like that though all you should need is a couple of little pins
> to
> .hold the corners together until the glue cures. Keep them a bit on the
> short
> .side so you reduce the risk of pushing them out the side. A brad push is a
> .wonderful way to set small pins or of course a pneumatic nailer if you have
> .one. Shooting into thin wood like that though without coming out the edge
> .can be tricky. Most pins will turn a little as they shoot and can wander
> out
> .the side which is just messy.
> .
> .If you have the equipment, rabbets or half laps or even box (finger) joints
> .are nice but without fancy equipment that is less practical.
> .
> .
> .Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> . [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> .Skype DaleLeavens
> .Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> .
> .
> .- Original Message -
> .From: "William Stephan" < [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>  >
> .To: < blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  >
> .Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 4:26 PM
> .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question
> .
> .
> .> Auright I'm convinced, I'll use either 1/2 or 3/8 for the bottoms, fronts
> .> and backs, and 1/4 plywood for the sides. So, now, can somebody give me
> .> some pointers on gluing? Every time I do it, I wind up with excess glue
> .> oozing out. I'm pretty sure I'm using too much glue, but it's hard for me
> .> to tell how much I'm actually applying.
> .> ,is it necessary to put glue on both pieces or is one sufficient..
> .> To my credit, I actually thought about doing it like this, but was
> .> thinking about 3/4 inch just because it's wide enough that it'd be less
> .> likely I'd split it.
> .>
> .>
> .> -Original Message-
> .> .From: "Lenny McHugh"< [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> >
> .> .Sent: 2/9/07 1:46:14 PM
> .> .To: " blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  "< blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>  >
> .> .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question
> .> .
> .> .Hi Bill,
> .> .If it is only for storing CDs I would probably use 1/2" plywood or even
> .> .3/8". I would also glue and brad nail.
> .> .If I was storing something heavier I would probably reconsider that
> .> choice.
> .> .I made a box to store my molding cutters and used 1/2" particle board
> for
> .> .the sides and glued an old scrap of 1/4" paneling to make top and
> bottom.
> .> I
> .> .then ran it through my table saw to cut about 1/2 to make the lid.
> .> .I did something similar a few years ago to make a carrying case for some
> .> of
> .> .my magic props. That had a lot of use and held up great.
> .> .I would even consider using that material for your project. It paints
> .> nice.
> .> ..
> .> .
> .> .For both of those projects I used only tight bond glue.
> .> .The one carrying case is about 20 years old.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question

[woodworkingfortheblind]

In fact, for small boxes you can use masking tape as clamps. Apply the tape to 
one side, position the second or mating piece, then pull the tape tightly 
across 
the second piece. Once all for corners are done, there will be sufficient 
pressure to hold the box square in place until the glue sets.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "William Stephan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Lenny, thanks, it sounds like the applicator would be the way to go.  It's 
> too 
> bad somebody hasn't figured out a way to sell glue in something like a 
> roll-on 
> deodorant bottle.
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> .From: "Lenny  McHugh"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> .Sent: 2/9/07 4:03:21 PM
> .To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com"
> .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question
> .
> .Bill,
> .For me it depends upon the project and the finish.
> .If the project is something that will be stained my wife, like the paint 
> .brush, won't let me near the glue bottle for the same reason that you 
> .mentioned.
> .If it is something that will be painted or left alone like the box for my 
> .molding cutters I will put a liberal amount and when it is squeezed out I 
> .have a pile of wet shop rags to clean up.
> .When I use tight bond I only apply to one surface. White glue I use a little 
> .on both sides and let it stand for a minute or so before putting together. 
> .The cohesion is fairly quick and helps hold in place before the clamps are 
> .attached. It still takes a few hours to cure.
> .Even then some glue squeezes out and more shop rags.
> .I use the disposable paper shop rags. Karen even uses them to apply the rub 
> .on polyurethane since they are lint free.
> .Even when Karen helps me with a project like the vanity or TV stand some 
> .tight bond squeezes out. She can see where it is and quickly cleans it up. 
> .Some times I let it alone and use a paint scraper and sander after it is 
> .dry.
> .The paint scraper is what most professionals use. I watched this done on the 
> .Yankee Workshop many times. I don't particularly like doing that I sometimes 
> .get a little too happy with the scraper and need a lot of sanding to remove 
> .the scratch marks. And I will only do that on hard woods. I destroyed some 
> .pine with that technique.
> .To apply the glue although a little messy I use my finger. I can feel how 
> .well I have it covered. When Karen helps she uses a very small paint brush, 
> .one of my forbidden tools. I am tempted to purchase a glue applicator that 
> .has a roller that applies the glue. Again this was used on the Yankee 
> .Workshop.
> .
> .Lenny
> .- Original Message - 
> .From: "William Stephan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> .To: 
> .Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 4:26 PM
> .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question
> .
> .
> .Auright I'm convinced, I'll use either 1/2 or 3/8 for the bottoms, fronts 
> .and backs, and 1/4 plywood for the sides.  So, now, can somebody give me 
> .some pointers on gluing?  Every time I do it, I wind up with excess glue 
> .oozing out.  I'm pretty sure I'm using too much glue, but it's hard for me 
> .to tell how much I'm actually applying.
> .,is it necessary to put glue on both pieces or is one sufficient..
> .To my credit, I actually thought about doing it like this, but was thinking 
> .about 3/4 inch just because it's wide enough that it'd be less likely I'd 
> .split it.
> .
> .
> .-Original Message-
> ..From: "Lenny  McHugh"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> ..Sent: 2/9/07 1:46:14 PM
> ..To: "blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com"
> ..Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question
> ..
> ..Hi Bill,
> ..If it is only for storing CDs I would probably use 1/2" plywood or even
> ..3/8". I would also glue and brad nail.
> ..If I was storing something heavier I would probably reconsider that choice.
> ..I made a box to store my molding cutters and used 1/2" particle board for
> ..the sides and glued an old scrap of 1/4" paneling to make top and bottom. I
> ..then ran it through my table saw to cut about 1/2 to make the lid.
> ..I did something similar a few years ago to make a carrying case for some of
> ..my magic props. That had a lot of use and held up great.
> ..I would even consider using that material for your project. It paints nice.
> ...
> ..
> ..For both of those projects I used only tight bond glue.
> ..The one carrying case is about 20 years old.
> ..Lenny
> ..- Original Message - 
> ..From: "William Stephan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> ..To: 
> ..Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 2:31 PM
> ..Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question
> ..
> ..
> ..I've decided to build some boxes that will be used to store CDs in a couple
> ..cabinets we have.  These will be simple, just a bottom, and four sides.  I
> ..think I want the bottoms and fronts and backs to be 3/4 inches thick.
> ..
> ..Basically, I'm thinking about either 1x8s or 3/4 inch plywood.  If I use 
> .the

Re: [BlindHandyMan] magic question

[woodworkingfortheblind]

p.s. here's the link to that article which I now notice was published in 1995.

http://scholar.lib.vt.edu/VA-news/VA-Pilot/issues/1995/vp951008/10060217.htm

I'll do a little more research.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Lenny  McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Has anyone constructed magic illusions?
> About 20 years ago someone showed me the "hillbilly wallet".
> It was a home made illusion using 3 pieces of plywood about the same size of 
> a 
> dollar bill.
> Basically you put someone's currency between two of the three boards and it 
> vanished. Then it was made to re-appear.
> He was going to send me the plans but never did. I sure would like to add it 
> to 
> my collection.
> If anyone has the plans please send them to me off list to help keep the 
> secret.
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> I never should have dropped my membership from the International Brotherhood 
> of 
> Magicians, IBM.
> I probably could get the plans from that organization.
> 
> Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] roto rule description

[woodworkingfortheblind]

The e-mails on the Roto-rule began on January 10, 2007 with an inquiry by Scott 
Howell who had just purchased a Roto-rule but wasn't sure how to use it. Lots 
of answers followed.

You can go to the archives to retrieve them. In the listing of links following 
your message, the archives are the sixth and last link listed.

Or you can go to the file pages listing individual members and look for Scott 
Howell to bring up the topic and then you can navigate to the various answers. 
The file is the fifth link listed below.

Hope this helps.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "R & S Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I seem to remember someone a few weeks ago gave a very good description of 
> the operation of the roto rule.  I would like to talk with them via 
> telephone.  If they would e-mail me off list with a phone number and best 
> time to call I would call them. as I have some ideas to discuss.
> thanks
> Ron Yearns 
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] roto rule description

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Here are copies of some of the answers:

>From John Schwery: Scott, the nut that looks like a regular nut, that is, the 
>6-sided 
nut, is the locking nut.  If you will notice on the square nut, on 
one side of that nut is a little notch.  That is the side you want to 
face up for measuring.  Supposing you want to measure 2 and a quarter 
inches.  The end with the threaded hole is where you start.  From 
that end, spin the square nut until it lines up with the 4th mark, 
that is, 2 inches and have the notch side up.  then, continuing to 
spin in the same direction, count 4 turns, again, with the notch side 
up.  Turn the other nut until it locks the square nut in place.  You 
should have 32 and a quarter inches.  Now, if you want to make that 8 
and a quarter inches, screw in the 6 inch extension.

>From Mickey Fixsen: The threaded piece is the primary measuring device. The 
>rectangular nut is the 
measuring nut and the hex nut is the locking nut. Here is how to use it.



There is a small hole in one end of the threaded rod. This hole is where the 
extensions attach to the threaded rod. Rotate the rectangular nut down to the 
end of the threaded rod until it is flush with the end with the small hole and 
the notch on one side of the rectangular nut is oriented on the same side as 
the raised threads that are 1/2"apart. You have now zeroed the tool.



If you rotate the rectangular nut 8 turns toward the opposite end of the 
threaded rod, you should end up with the edge of the rectangular nut that was 
flush with the end of the rod, now flush with the first raised 1/2" raised 
thread. The tool now measures 1/2" fron the end of the rod with the hole in it 
to the edge of the rectangular measuring nut. Hence, when this edge of the 
measuring nut is flush with a raised mark, you have a particular measurement in 
1/2" increments.



For every full turn of the rectangular measuring nut, you have changed the 
measurement 1/16". For every half turn of the measuring nut, you change the 
measurement by 1/132". For every quarter turn of the measuring nut, you change 
the measurement by 1/64".



If for instance you need a measurement of 1 1/4", start by rotating the 
rectangular measuring nut so that the edge closest to the end of the rod with 
the hole is flush with the second raised thread fron the end of the rod with 
the hole, and the notch on the measuring nut is oriented on the same side of 
the tool as the raised threads. Now, rotate the measuring nut 4 full turns 
further away from the end of the rod with the hole and make sure the notch is 
on the same side of the tool as the raised threads. There is now 1 1/4" from 
the end of the threaded rod with the hole to the edge of the rectangular 
measuring nut.



You can measure up to six inches with the threaded rod alone. This is from the 
end of the rod with the hole to the closest edge of the measuring nut. If you 
need to measure 6 inches to 12 inches, simply install the 6 inch extension. You 
can add extensions as needed to measure up to 42 inches with what you have 
there.



So far, I have been talking about measurements from the end with the hole to 
the closest edge of the measuring nut. This is how you would use it for outside 
measurements, like across the outside of a box, or from one end of a boart to a 
given length. For inside measurements, like inside of a box, you measure from 
the end of the rod with the hole to the far side of the measuring nut. The 
measuring nut is 1/4" thick and you willl need to remember this with some 
operations.



Just remember that the raised threads are 1/2" marks and that every full turn 
of the measuring nut is 1/16". When you get the measuring nut where you want 
it, you can tighten the hex shaped nut against it to hold the measurement nut 
from turning and changing the measurement.

Like most things, there is a bit of a learning curve with it. Just use it a bit 
and get used to how it operates. You will find that it is very accurate. It is 
by far the best overall measuring tool for use by the blind.



By the way, the Clickrule works on the same principle as the rotomatic, but 
uses a sliding device instead of a rotating nut, and it has a detent that 
lightly holds the tool every 1/16". The clickrule won't lie as flat on the 
workpiece as the Rotomatic and does not have it's 1/64" accuracy. They both 
have their plusses and minuses. I use them both, depending on the particular 
task at hand.



If you have any other specific questions about how to use the Rotomatic, just 
ask. 



Good luck.

>From Dale Leavens: 

You have done pretty well at describing the rule.

The threaded rod is six and a half inches long. The large rectangular nut is 
the one you most commonly use for measuring. The other nut is used when/if 
you want to lock the rectangular nut into place to hold a measure or even to 
use it as a sort of monster feeler gauge.

You should notice a small notch cut into one of the longer sides of the 
recta

Re: [BlindHandyMan] roto rule description

[woodworkingfortheblind]

You're welcome. Good luck on your project, Ron.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "R & S Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hey man these are exactly the two answers I had in mind.  Both John and 
> Mickly 
> replied and gave me their phone numbers and I called and chatted with them 
> also 
> to get a more clear understanding.  I am attempting to conjur up some way of 
> accomplishing this function without a lot of machine shop work.  That may not 
> be 
> possible without losing a fair amount in accuracy.  Thinking about a 7/16" 
> end 
> mill chucked in a drill press to mill down the threads every half inch..  And 
> using all thread couplers instead of drillling and tapping the rod..  Perhaps 
> using a three inch rule with a three inch, six inch, twelve and so forth may 
> accomplish similiar function.  I got lots of peices of short all thread.  
> Well 
> anyway thants for digging out the old posts.  I thought I had copied or saved 
> them myself, but guess that was only in my mind.
> Ron
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 9:40 PM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] roto rule description
> 
> 
>   Here are copies of some of the answers:
> 
>   From John Schwery: Scott, the nut that looks like a regular nut, that is, 
> the 
> 6-sided 
>   nut, is the locking nut. If you will notice on the square nut, on 
>   one side of that nut is a little notch. That is the side you want to 
>   face up for measuring. Supposing you want to measure 2 and a quarter 
>   inches. The end with the threaded hole is where you start. From 
>   that end, spin the square nut until it lines up with the 4th mark, 
>   that is, 2 inches and have the notch side up. then, continuing to 
>   spin in the same direction, count 4 turns, again, with the notch side 
>   up. Turn the other nut until it locks the square nut in place. You 
>   should have 32 and a quarter inches. Now, if you want to make that 8 
>   and a quarter inches, screw in the 6 inch extension.
> 
>   From Mickey Fixsen: The threaded piece is the primary measuring device. The 
> rectangular nut is the 
>   measuring nut and the hex nut is the locking nut. Here is how to use it.
> 
>   There is a small hole in one end of the threaded rod. This hole is where 
> the 
>   extensions attach to the threaded rod. Rotate the rectangular nut down to 
> the 
>   end of the threaded rod until it is flush with the end with the small hole 
> and 
>   the notch on one side of the rectangular nut is oriented on the same side 
> as 
>   the raised threads that are 1/2"apart. You have now zeroed the tool.
> 
>   If you rotate the rectangular nut 8 turns toward the opposite end of the 
>   threaded rod, you should end up with the edge of the rectangular nut that 
> was 
>   flush with the end of the rod, now flush with the first raised 1/2" raised 
>   thread. The tool now measures 1/2" fron the end of the rod with the hole in 
> it 
>   to the edge of the rectangular measuring nut. Hence, when this edge of the 
>   measuring nut is flush with a raised mark, you have a particular 
> measurement 
> in 
>   1/2" increments.
> 
>   For every full turn of the rectangular measuring nut, you have changed the 
>   measurement 1/16". For every half turn of the measuring nut, you change the 
>   measurement by 1/132". For every quarter turn of the measuring nut, you 
> change 
>   the measurement by 1/64".
> 
>   If for instance you need a measurement of 1 1/4", start by rotating the 
>   rectangular measuring nut so that the edge closest to the end of the rod 
> with 
>   the hole is flush with the second raised thread fron the end of the rod 
> with 
>   the hole, and the notch on the measuring nut is oriented on the same side 
> of 
>   the tool as the raised threads. Now, rotate the measuring nut 4 full turns 
>   further away from the end of the rod with the hole and make sure the notch 
> is 
>   on the same side of the tool as the raised threads. There is now 1 1/4" 
> from 
>   the end of the threaded rod with the hole to the edge of the rectangular 
>   measuring nut.
> 
>   You can measure up to six inches with the threaded rod alone. This is from 
> the 
>   end of the rod with the hole to the closest edge of the measuring nut. If 
> you 
>   need to measure 6 inches to 12 inches, simply install the 6 inch extension. 
> You 
>   can add extensions as needed to measure up to 42 inches with what you have 
>   there.
> 
>   So far, I have been talking about measurements from the end with the hole 
> to 
>   the closest edge of the measuring nut. This is how you would use it for 
> outside 
>   measurements, like across the outside of a box, or from one end of a boart 
> to 
> a 
>   given length. For inside measurements, like inside of a box, you measure 
> from 
>   

Re: biscuits, was: Re: [BlindHandyMan] outdoor folding table?

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Biscuits are a good alternative when edge joining boards particul,arly because 
they help align the boards so that the edge seam fits very closely. The 
biscuits also provide added strength to the joint because they increase the 
area of gluer surface but usually that added strength isn't needed. The area 
along the edges of the boards usually provides sufficient glue area.

There's a new tool that's being introduced in a month or so from Festool called 
the Domino which will cut biscuits shaped like smaller mortises. The mortises 
are cut because the cutterhead oscillates to produce the deeper straight cut of 
the mortise. The Domino comes with precut strips of wood that serve as floating 
tenons and which are sized to fit those mortises exactly. The tool appears to 
be a fabulous improvement and is one of the few really new and imaginative 
concepts, but, unfortunately, it's very expensive. The tool with one cutterhead 
is projected to cost $700 and an additional $200 to buy different sized 
cutterheads.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I don't know that they are particularly better however they are a little 
> more forgiving.
> 
> The cutter is a blade maybe 3 16th wide which pushes out through a slot into 
> the edge of the boards to be joined. There are a few sizes so you can adjust 
> the depth of cut and it cuts an arc shape. There is something of a fence 
> which can be adjusted to set the distance up or down so the faces line up. 
> This fence can be hinged up or down to form an angle which permits you to 
> use them to join boards on angles.
> 
> If I need I lay my boards up then stick tape across the joint at intervals 
> then cut the tape with a sharp blade using the edge of the tape as a point 
> to line up the cutter index mark on. I find this much quicker and more 
> accurate than fiddling with dowel jigging and absolutely vertical holes but 
> then I am a bit on the lazy side.
> 
> For an outdoor project like that though it isn't usually good to use wide 
> boards laminated or otherwise because of the widely changing climatic 
> conditions. Even a very small gap will permit movement of the boards.
> 
> Certainly I do use biscuits for outdoor joinery with water resistant glue, I 
> have many edging beds here made of a 2 by 8 pressure treated board with a 2 
> by 6 on edge to form a nice boarder for mowing the lawn, keeps the trimming 
> down and produces a slight raised bed and helps keep blind feet out of the 
> gardens.In this application though the boards can swell out in opposite 
> directions away from the joinery. I also used good long screws when I 
> discovered that even good exterior glue isn't fail safe.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "John Schwery" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 7:35 PM
> Subject: biscuits, was: Re: [BlindHandyMan] outdoor folding table?
> 
> 
> > Dale, thanks.  I have never worked with biscuits as I don't have a
> > cutter.  Are these better than dowels and are they hard to use?
> >
> > earlier, Dale Leavens, wrote:
> >
> >>Hi John,
> >>
> >>I think I would just screw the planks together from underneath with the
> >>transverse boards you intend to attach the folding legs to. I would also
> >>leave a very small gap between the planks to allow for movement in the 
> >>wood
> >>in the outdoor environment.
> >>
> >>If you do intend to laminate them together on the edges you need very good
> >>edges, true and straight It doesn't matter much which joining method you 
> >>use
> >>though, I would probably use biscuits since I have a cutter however the
> >>wider you form a board the more it will want to expand width wise. If you 
> >>do
> >>this you will also want to elongate the screws holes that hold the
> >>transverse pieces to the table top so they can slide a little to allow for
> >>movement in that wide panel otherwise it will either crack or cup or
> >>probably both.
> >>
> >>Hope this gives you some ideas.
> >>
> >>Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> >>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>Skype DaleLeavens
> >>Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> >>
> >>- Original Message -
> >>From: "John Schwery" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>To: 
> >><blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
> >>Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 3:40 PM
> >>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] outdoor folding table?
> >>
> >> >I would like your ideas on a folding table. I want to make a folding
> >> > table for a sort of outdoor work bench. I bought the legs from
> >> > harbor Freight. They are similar to what you might see o

Re: [BlindHandyMan] outdoor folding table?

[woodworkingfortheblind]

If you're buying folding legs from Harbor Freight, John, what are the vertical 
wood pieces for? If the folding legs are similar to the legs on church basement 
tables will they be sturdy enough to support your router table when you're 
routing a project?

I've seen plans or articles for trestle tables that are held together rigidly 
because of wedges tapped through open mortise joints. I'll look for that 
material this weekend.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: John Schwery <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I would like your ideas on a folding table.  I want to make a folding 
> table for a sort of outdoor work bench.  I bought the legs from 
> harbor Freight.  They are similar to what you might see on tables for 
> church and school meals.  I thought of making the top from 1 by 12 
> wood, about 5 feet long and 2 feet wide, with a cross piece under 
> each end to support the 2 vertical pieces and for fastening the 
> legs.  What sort of joint would be best for vertical boards, 2 1 by 5 
> pieces joined side by side?  Should I use dowels, tongue and groove 
> or something else?  If I use tongue and groove, what should be the 
> width of the tongue?  Will I need any cross pieces in the 
> middle?  About the heaviest thing I might have on it would be my 
> router table and router.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.39/687 - Release Date: 2/14/2007 
> 4:17 
> PM
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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Re: biscuits, was: Re: [BlindHandyMan] outdoor folding table?

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Tongue and groove joints:

The Woodcraft catalog carries a CMT Tongue and Groove Router Bit Set. Item 
number 820275 for $88.70. The write-up says: make tongue and groove joints 
without the complicated process of taking apartr and reassembling bits. With 
the CMT Tongue and Groove Set one bit routs the slot and a second mills the 
tongue. Makes tongue and groove cuts in wood up to 3/4 inch thick, 1/2 inch 
shank, carbide tipped, for router table use only."

The catalog also carries a CMT Reverse Glue Joint Router Bit, item number 
820316 for $86.40. The write-up reads "Produces an almost indestructible glue 
joint quickly and accurately. Ideal for joing wide panels, doors and furniture 
parts. By accurately centering the bit in the wood, the upper and lower 
vertical cutting edges of the bit will cut equal proportions. Simply run one 
edge of the panel, turn the panel over, and then run the opposite edge. You 
will produce perfectly matched reverse cuts that form flawless joints. Stock 
thickness 19/31-inch to 1 and 3/16-inch."

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> There is the "bow-tie" joinery method too. This too uses a special cutter 
> which forms two flared cuts usually used on the under side of boards. a 
> bow-tie shaped bit of wood is then tapped into the voids cut and because of 
> the tapered shape tapping it down pulls the edges together.
> 
> I haven't used or even seen one up close and dirty.
> 
> At one time they used to sell tongue & groove router bit sets, I haven't 
> seen one in several years though, wonder if they are still around.
> 
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: ; 
> Cc: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 10:27 AM
> Subject: Re: biscuits, was: Re: [BlindHandyMan] outdoor folding table?
> 
> 
> > Biscuits are a good alternative when edge joining boards particul,arly 
> > because they help align the boards so that the edge seam fits very 
> > closely. The biscuits also provide added strength to the joint because 
> > they increase the area of gluer surface but usually that added strength 
> > isn't needed. The area along the edges of the boards usually provides 
> > sufficient glue area.
> >
> > There's a new tool that's being introduced in a month or so from Festool 
> > called the Domino which will cut biscuits shaped like smaller mortises. 
> > The mortises are cut because the cutterhead oscillates to produce the 
> > deeper straight cut of the mortise. The Domino comes with precut strips of 
> > wood that serve as floating tenons and which are sized to fit those 
> > mortises exactly. The tool appears to be a fabulous improvement and is one 
> > of the few really new and imaginative concepts, but, unfortunately, it's 
> > very expensive. The tool with one cutterhead is projected to cost $700 and 
> > an additional $200 to buy different sized cutterheads.
> >
> > --
> > Larry Martin
> > Woodworking for the Blind
> >--joining the world of blind wood workers
> >
> > -- Original message --
> > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> I don't know that they are particularly better however they are a little
> >> more forgiving.
> >>
> >> The cutter is a blade maybe 3 16th wide which pushes out through a slot 
> >> into
> >> the edge of the boards to be joined. There are a few sizes so you can 
> >> adjust
> >> the depth of cut and it cuts an arc shape. There is something of a fence
> >> which can be adjusted to set the distance up or down so the faces line 
> >> up.
> >> This fence can be hinged up or down to form an angle which permits you to
> >> use them to join boards on angles.
> >>
> >> If I need I lay my boards up then stick tape across the joint at 
> >> intervals
> >> then cut the tape with a sharp blade using the edge of the tape as a 
> >> point
> >> to line up the cutter index mark on. I find this much quicker and more
> >> accurate than fiddling with dowel jigging and absolutely vertical holes 
> >> but
> >> then I am a bit on the lazy side.
> >>
> >> For an outdoor project like that though it isn't usually good to use wide
> >> boards laminated or otherwise because of the widely changing climatic
> >> conditions. Even a very small gap will permit movement of the boards.
> >>
> >> Certainly I do use biscuits for outdoor joinery with water resistant 
> >> glue, I
> >> have many edging beds here made of a 2 by 8 pressure treated board with a 
> >> 2
> >> by 6 on edge to form a nice boarder for mowing the lawn, keeps the 
> >> trimming
> >> down and produces a slight raised bed and helps keep blind feet out of 
> >> the
> >> gardens.In this application though the board

Re: [BlindHandyMan] accu-rip saw guide or something similar?

[woodworkingfortheblind]

The Accu-Rip Guide Tool Review from This Old House reads as follows:
"Making straight, accurate cuts on 4x8 sheets of plywood or long rips in boards 
is less of a challenge with the Accu-Rip saw guide from Craftsman ($40). Just 
secure its 27-inch-long aluminum arm to the base of a right-bladed circular 
saw, “zeroing” the arm with the saw blade. Then slide the “cut guide” along the 
graduated arm to the desired cut width and tighten it in place. This guide runs 
against the edge of the board, ensuring straight cuts as wide as 24 inches and 
as narrow as 1/16 inch; no other ripping guide cuts as close. As with any saw 
guide, the last inch or so has to be cut freehand; and when making wide cuts, a 
hand is needed on the cut guide to move it and the saw together."

An easy home-made guide would simply be the straight edge of a piece of plywood 
that you clamp into position at both ends. You would need to line up the blade 
of the circular saw with your intended cut line, then lay the straight edge in 
position against the edge of the base of the circular saw then clamp the 
straight edge in position.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: John Schwery <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Does anyone have any opinions about what might be the best guide for 
> a circular saw?  What keeps the Accu-Rip guide from moving while making a cut?
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.0/689 - Release Date: 2/15/2007 
> 5:40 
> PM
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
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Re: biscuits, was: Re: [BlindHandyMan] outdoor folding table?

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Looking at the profile or cross section view of the long edge of a 3/4-inch 
thick board, the edge drops down at a 90-degree angle from the face and the 
drop down is about 1/4-inch. From there the edge angles about 60-degrees 
inwards for a distance of about 1/8-inch, then it angles straight down again 
for about 1/16th inch or so then angles about 60-degrees back out towards the 
face of the edge. At the edge it drops down at 90-degrees for about 1/16-inch 
then angles back inwards about 60-degrees for about 1/8-inch and from there it 
drops down straight for about the last 1/4-inch of thickness of the board. The 
mating piece is the mirror image of this cut.

Hope that helps. Essentially, the cut is a zig-zag except that there are small 
flats where the zig turns into the zag. Well if that last sentence doesn't 
confuse you I don't know what will.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Can you describe the profile of a reverse glue joint router bit?
> 
> I can probably get a description elsewhere if necessary and pass it on.
> 
> 
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 2:54 PM
> Subject: Re: biscuits, was: Re: [BlindHandyMan] outdoor folding table?
> 
> 
> > Tongue and groove joints:
> >
> > The Woodcraft catalog carries a CMT Tongue and Groove Router Bit Set. Item 
> > number 820275 for $88.70. The write-up says: make tongue and groove joints 
> > without the complicated process of taking apartr and reassembling bits. 
> > With the CMT Tongue and Groove Set one bit routs the slot and a second 
> > mills the tongue. Makes tongue and groove cuts in wood up to 3/4 inch 
> > thick, 1/2 inch shank, carbide tipped, for router table use only."
> >
> > The catalog also carries a CMT Reverse Glue Joint Router Bit, item number 
> > 820316 for $86.40. The write-up reads "Produces an almost indestructible 
> > glue joint quickly and accurately. Ideal for joing wide panels, doors and 
> > furniture parts. By accurately centering the bit in the wood, the upper 
> > and lower vertical cutting edges of the bit will cut equal proportions. 
> > Simply run one edge of the panel, turn the panel over, and then run the 
> > opposite edge. You will produce perfectly matched reverse cuts that form 
> > flawless joints. Stock thickness 19/31-inch to 1 and 3/16-inch."
> >
> > --
> > Larry Martin
> > Woodworking for the Blind
> >--joining the world of blind wood workers
> >
> > -- Original message --
> > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> There is the "bow-tie" joinery method too. This too uses a special cutter
> >> which forms two flared cuts usually used on the under side of boards. a
> >> bow-tie shaped bit of wood is then tapped into the voids cut and because 
> >> of
> >> the tapered shape tapping it down pulls the edges together.
> >>
> >> I haven't used or even seen one up close and dirty.
> >>
> >> At one time they used to sell tongue & groove router bit sets, I haven't
> >> seen one in several years though, wonder if they are still around.
> >>
> >> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> Skype DaleLeavens
> >> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> >>
> >>
> >> - Original Message - 
> >> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> To: ; 
> >> Cc: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 10:27 AM
> >> Subject: Re: biscuits, was: Re: [BlindHandyMan] outdoor folding table?
> >>
> >>
> >> > Biscuits are a good alternative when edge joining boards particul,arly
> >> > because they help align the boards so that the edge seam fits very
> >> > closely. The biscuits also provide added strength to the joint because
> >> > they increase the area of gluer surface but usually that added strength
> >> > isn't needed. The area along the edges of the boards usually provides
> >> > sufficient glue area.
> >> >
> >> > There's a new tool that's being introduced in a month or so from 
> >> > Festool
> >> > called the Domino which will cut biscuits shaped like smaller mortises.
> >> > The mortises are cut because the cutterhead oscillates to produce the
> >> > deeper straight cut of the mortise. The Domino comes with precut strips 
> >> > of
> >> > wood that serve as floating tenons and which are sized to fit those
> >> > mortises exactly. The tool appears to be a fabulous improvement and is 
> >> > one
> >> > of the few really new and imaginative concepts, but, unfortunately, 
> >> > it's
> >> > very expensive. The tool with one cutterhead is projected to cost $700 
> >> > and
> >> > an additional $200 to buy different sized cutterheads.
> >> >
> >> > 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] accu-rip saw guide or something similar?

[woodworkingfortheblind]

I don't know but I will do a little research on that. I imagine the answer is 
that there are relatively few left-cut saws therefore a much more limited 
market for it. Dale's description of making a plywood guide is quite good. That 
method gives you a straight edge to follow along with a thin platform for your 
ciruclar saw to ride on avoiding scratches to the workpiece and the edge of the 
platform is a perfect guide for lining up with your cut line.

I did read a review of a really smooth device for guiding a s circular saw and 
I will look for that as well. 

I should have the research finished by the end of the afternoon. 

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: William Stephan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Larry, anybody ever use these with a left-bladed saw, and if not, why
> not, if you know.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 8:51 AM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] accu-rip saw guide or something similar?
> 
> The Accu-Rip Guide Tool Review from This Old House reads as follows:
> "Making straight, accurate cuts on 4x8 sheets of plywood or long rips in
> boards is less of a challenge with the Accu-Rip saw guide from Craftsman
> ($40). Just secure its 27-inch-long aluminum arm to the base of a
> right-bladed circular saw, "zeroing" the arm with the saw blade. Then
> slide the "cut guide" along the graduated arm to the desired cut width
> and tighten it in place. This guide runs against the edge of the board,
> ensuring straight cuts as wide as 24 inches and as narrow as 1/16 inch;
> no other ripping guide cuts as close. As with any saw guide, the last
> inch or so has to be cut freehand; and when making wide cuts, a hand is
> needed on the cut guide to move it and the saw together."
> 
> An easy home-made guide would simply be the straight edge of a piece of
> plywood that you clamp into position at both ends. You would need to
> line up the blade of the circular saw with your intended cut line, then
> lay the straight edge in position against the edge of the base of the
> circular saw then clamp the straight edge in position.
> 
> --
> Larry Martin
> Woodworking for the Blind
> --joining the world of blind wood workers
> 
>  -- Original message --
> From: John Schwery <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Does anyone have any opinions about what might be the best guide for 
> > a circular saw?  What keeps the Accu-Rip guide from moving while
> making a cut?
> > 
> > 
> > John
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.0/689 - Release Date:
> 2/15/2007 5:40 
> > PM
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> To listen to the show archives go to link
>  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
> 
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
> 
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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> 
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> Various List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
> 
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
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> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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mailto:

[BlindHandyMan] Reverse glue joint bit profile

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Same message with a better Subject heading:

Looking at the profile or cross section view of the long edge of a 3/4-inch 
thick board, the edge drops down at a 90-degree angle from the face and the 
drop 
down is about 1/4-inch. From there the edge angles about 60-degrees inwards for 
a distance of about 1/8-inch, then it angles straight down again for about 
1/16th inch or so then angles about 60-degrees back out towards the face of the 
edge. At the edge it drops down at 90-degrees for about 1/16-inch then angles 
back inwards about 60-degrees for about 1/8-inch and from there it drops down 
straight for about the last 1/4-inch of thickness of the board. The mating 
piece 
is the mirror image of this cut.

Hope that helps. Essentially, the cut is a zig-zag except that there are small 
flats where the zig turns into the zag. Well if that last sentence doesn't 
confuse you I don't know what will.



--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Can you describe the profile of a reverse glue joint router bit?
> 
> I can probably get a description elsewhere if necessary and pass it on.
> 
> 
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 2:54 PM
> Subject: Re: biscuits, was: Re: [BlindHandyMan] outdoor folding table?
> 
> 
> > Tongue and groove joints:
> >
> > The Woodcraft catalog carries a CMT Tongue and Groove Router Bit Set. Item 
> > number 820275 for $88.70. The write-up says: make tongue and groove joints 
> > without the complicated process of taking apartr and reassembling bits. 
> > With the CMT Tongue and Groove Set one bit routs the slot and a second 
> > mills the tongue. Makes tongue and groove cuts in wood up to 3/4 inch 
> > thick, 1/2 inch shank, carbide tipped, for router table use only."
> >
> > The catalog also carries a CMT Reverse Glue Joint Router Bit, item number 
> > 820316 for $86.40. The write-up reads "Produces an almost indestructible 
> > glue joint quickly and accurately. Ideal for joing wide panels, doors and 
> > furniture parts. By accurately centering the bit in the wood, the upper 
> > and lower vertical cutting edges of the bit will cut equal proportions. 
> > Simply run one edge of the panel, turn the panel over, and then run the 
> > opposite edge. You will produce perfectly matched reverse cuts that form 
> > flawless joints. Stock thickness 19/31-inch to 1 and 3/16-inch."
> >
> > --
> > Larry Martin
> > Woodworking for the Blind
> >--joining the world of blind wood workers
> >
> > -- Original message --
> > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> There is the "bow-tie" joinery method too. This too uses a special cutter
> >> which forms two flared cuts usually used on the under side of boards. a
> >> bow-tie shaped bit of wood is then tapped into the voids cut and because 
> >> of
> >> the tapered shape tapping it down pulls the edges together.
> >>
> >> I haven't used or even seen one up close and dirty.
> >>
> >> At one time they used to sell tongue & groove router bit sets, I haven't
> >> seen one in several years though, wonder if they are still around.
> >>
> >> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> Skype DaleLeavens
> >> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> >>
> >>
> >> - Original Message - 
> >> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> To: ; 
> >> Cc: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 10:27 AM
> >> Subject: Re: biscuits, was: Re: [BlindHandyMan] outdoor folding table?
> >>
> >>
> >> > Biscuits are a good alternative when edge joining boards particul,arly
> >> > because they help align the boards so that the edge seam fits very
> >> > closely. The biscuits also provide added strength to the joint because
> >> > they increase the area of gluer surface but usually that added strength
> >> > isn't needed. The area along the edges of the boards usually provides
> >> > sufficient glue area.
> >> >
> >> > There's a new tool that's being introduced in a month or so from 
> >> > Festool
> >> > called the Domino which will cut biscuits shaped like smaller mortises.
> >> > The mortises are cut because the cutterhead oscillates to produce the
> >> > deeper straight cut of the mortise. The Domino comes with precut strips 
> >> > of
> >> > wood that serve as floating tenons and which are sized to fit those
> >> > mortises exactly. The tool appears to be a fabulous improvement and is 
> >> > one
> >> > of the few really new and imaginative concepts, but, unfortunately, 
> >> > it's
> >> > very expensive. The tool with one cutterhead is projected to cost $700 
> >> > and
> >> > an additional $200 t

RE: [BlindHandyMan] accu-rip saw guide or something similar?

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Looks like Dale has answered the issue for the left-sided blade.

1. The new tool I referred to earlier is an expensive, high quality $430 tool 
from Festool.

Here is a SUMMARY REVIEW by Mark Edmundson

The Festool TS 55 EQ is a circular saw like no other. With its splinter guard, 
razor-sharp blade, and well-engineered guide system, the saw makes long, 
straight 
cuts—whether on plywood, tabletops, or cabinet doors—extremely accurately, 
cleanly, and easily, virtually eliminating the need for a larger, more 
expensive panel saw or sliding tablesaw.

The Festool adds a unique plunge action, opening up a range of other tasks. I 
work with a lot of cabinet-grade plywood, and while I have a panel-saw 
attachment for my tablesaw, wrestling the 4x8 sheets onto the carriage without 
scratching the veneers or throwing out my back is a chore. With the TS 55EQ, I 
can whittle down large sheets to a manageable size quickly and cleanly.

The key to the saw’s accuracy is the 55-in. guide rail made from extruded 
aluminum. The base of the saw mates with and slides effortlessly along tracks 
in the guide rail. You can correct for any slop in the fit by tightening two 
small cam screws on the saw’s base. Two foam strips under the rail provide a 
firm footing to hold it in place without clamps, and they protect the wood 
surface from scratches. Simply align the edge of the rail with the cut line, 
set the saw on the rail, and make the cut.

The guide rail mates with Festool’s OF 1010 EQ router (with guide rail 
attachment, No. 488752), making the system even more valuable and versatile. 
Key features of the saw include a plunge depth stop (metric), a 1-in. and 
1-7/16 in. dust port, and a splitter to prevent binding. A splinter guard acts 
like the zero-clearance insert in a tablesaw to help make splinter-free cuts, 
even close to the edge of plywood, in stacks of veneer sheets, and on cabinet 
doors. The controls are easy to reach and the saw is comfortable to use, 
portable, and stores easily.

2. An alternative to this expensive system is to make your your guide rail 
system. Here's an excerpt from an article:
Make dedicated cutting guides 
The difficulty in using a straightedge with a circular saw is that you 
have to offset the straightedge from the cut line to account for the 
width of the saw's base. My first approach to simplifying this 
process was to rip a strip of Masonite the exact width of this offset. 
I would lay this spacer down next to the cut line and then snug my 
straightedge up to the spacer. It didn't take long to figure out that 
it would be more convenient to attach a Masonite spacer to the 
bottom of the straightedge. 
Now I simply lay the Masonite base of a cutting guide right on 
the cut line, clamp the guide to the workpiece and cut. One bonus is 
that the saw glides smoothly across the Masonite instead of on my 
workpiece. And another is that the Masonite backs up the cut, min- 
imizing splintering of the veneer in cross-grain cuts. 
I keep several of these guides in the shop, in different sizes and 
configurations. Together with the circular saw and the cutting 
table, they make dissecting large panels a breeze. I recommend at 
least three different guides: an 8-foot. guide for cutting sheet goods in 
the long dimension, an easier-to-wield 4-foot. version for shorter cuts 
and a 90° guide for perfectly square cuts 
To make a guide, begin by cutting an 8-inch-wide strip of 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch 
thick plywood for the fence portion. Next, measure the saw's foot- 
print—the distance from the blade to the edge of the base on the 
side under the motor. Then make the Masonite base. Its width is 
8 inches plus the saw's footprint plus an inch or so extra, which will be 
trimmed off. The plywood for the fence should be of good quali- 
ty—something with good inner plies, such as hardwood or marine 
plywood. The edge that the circular saw will be running against 
should be free of voids, if possible. For the Masonite base, tem- 
pered is best, 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch thick. 
To assemble a straight guide, lay the plywood fence, best-side 
down, on the table, and lay down the Masonite strip with the best 
side down on top of the plywood. Drill and countersink clearance 
holes in the Masonite, about every 6 inches along the length of the as- 
sembly. Clamp the two boards and screw them together, being 
careful to get the screws fully countersunk. 
Your next move will be to trim the Masonite base. If you haven't 
bought a good sawblade yet, drop everything and do it now—your
guide will be trimmed to match your exact saw and blade combi- 
nation; you don't want to make a guide with one blade and use it 
with another. When you get back from the store and put your 
good carbide blade in the saw, check the blade for square and par- 
allel. Then clamp the guide to your cutting table and trim off the excess 
Masonite by running the saw down the length of the assembly. Now the guide is 
ready to go. 
The key to maki

Re: [BlindHandyMan] accu-rip saw guide or something similar?

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Yes, they are easy to build, but best of all, they are custom built 
specifically for your own circular saw and that means they work exactly as you 
expect it to. And I guess that's a pretty good definition of blind-friendly.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Mickey Fixsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Larry,
> 
> I have been making all sorts of saw and router guides like those that you 
> described here.  They are very accurate, easy to build, inexpensive, and 
> best of all-- blind friendly!
> 
> Mickey
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 4:43 PM
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] accu-rip saw guide or something similar?
> 
> 
> > Looks like Dale has answered the issue for the left-sided blade.
> >
> > 1. The new tool I referred to earlier is an expensive, high quality $430 
> > tool from Festool.
> >
> > Here is a SUMMARY REVIEW by Mark Edmundson
> >
> > The Festool TS 55 EQ is a circular saw like no other. With its splinter 
> > guard, razor-sharp blade, and well-engineered guide system, the saw makes 
> > long, straight
> > cuts-whether on plywood, tabletops, or cabinet doors-extremely accurately, 
> > cleanly, and easily, virtually eliminating the need for a larger, more 
> > expensive panel saw or sliding tablesaw.
> >
> > The Festool adds a unique plunge action, opening up a range of other 
> > tasks. I work with a lot of cabinet-grade plywood, and while I have a 
> > panel-saw attachment for my tablesaw, wrestling the 4x8 sheets onto the 
> > carriage without scratching the veneers or throwing out my back is a 
> > chore. With the TS 55EQ, I can whittle down large sheets to a manageable 
> > size quickly and cleanly.
> >
> > The key to the saw's accuracy is the 55-in. guide rail made from extruded 
> > aluminum. The base of the saw mates with and slides effortlessly along 
> > tracks in the guide rail. You can correct for any slop in the fit by 
> > tightening two small cam screws on the saw's base. Two foam strips under 
> > the rail provide a firm footing to hold it in place without clamps, and 
> > they protect the wood surface from scratches. Simply align the edge of the 
> > rail with the cut line, set the saw on the rail, and make the cut.
> >
> > The guide rail mates with Festool's OF 1010 EQ router (with guide rail 
> > attachment, No. 488752), making the system even more valuable and 
> > versatile. Key features of the saw include a plunge depth stop (metric), a 
> > 1-in. and 1-7/16 in. dust port, and a splitter to prevent binding. A 
> > splinter guard acts like the zero-clearance insert in a tablesaw to help 
> > make splinter-free cuts, even close to the edge of plywood, in stacks of 
> > veneer sheets, and on cabinet doors. The controls are easy to reach and 
> > the saw is comfortable to use, portable, and stores easily.
> >
> > 2. An alternative to this expensive system is to make your your guide rail 
> > system. Here's an excerpt from an article:
> > Make dedicated cutting guides
> > The difficulty in using a straightedge with a circular saw is that you
> > have to offset the straightedge from the cut line to account for the
> > width of the saw's base. My first approach to simplifying this
> > process was to rip a strip of Masonite the exact width of this offset.
> > I would lay this spacer down next to the cut line and then snug my
> > straightedge up to the spacer. It didn't take long to figure out that
> > it would be more convenient to attach a Masonite spacer to the
> > bottom of the straightedge.
> > Now I simply lay the Masonite base of a cutting guide right on
> > the cut line, clamp the guide to the workpiece and cut. One bonus is
> > that the saw glides smoothly across the Masonite instead of on my
> > workpiece. And another is that the Masonite backs up the cut, min-
> > imizing splintering of the veneer in cross-grain cuts.
> > I keep several of these guides in the shop, in different sizes and
> > configurations. Together with the circular saw and the cutting
> > table, they make dissecting large panels a breeze. I recommend at
> > least three different guides: an 8-foot. guide for cutting sheet goods in
> > the long dimension, an easier-to-wield 4-foot. version for shorter cuts
> > and a 90° guide for perfectly square cuts
> > To make a guide, begin by cutting an 8-inch-wide strip of 1/2-inch or 
> > 3/4-inch
> > thick plywood for the fence portion. Next, measure the saw's foot-
> > print-the distance from the blade to the edge of the base on the
> > side under the motor. Then make the Masonite base. Its width is
> > 8 inches plus the saw's footprint plus an inch or so extra, which will be
> > trimmed off. The plywood for the fence should be of good quali-
> > ty-something with good inner plies, such as hardwood or marine
> > plywood. The edge that the circular saw will be running against
> > s

Re: [BlindHandyMan] More questions about dados.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Yes, excess weight on a shelf can cause the shelf to slip out of the dadoes on 
the sides. One way around this is to screw through the sides into the shelf. 
This is screwing into the end grain of the shelf which is not the strongest 
grip but still will help a lot. A second way is tobiscuit the shelves into the 
sides and not use a dado. A third way is to put a cleat underneath the shelf 
and screw the cleat to the side and then screw the shelf to the cleat.

An entirely different way is to strengthen the shelf. If, for instance, you are 
using  3/4-inch thick plywood for the shelf, you could add a 2-inch hardwood 
facing strip to the plywood edge which would substantially strengthen the 
shelf. Since your shelves are only 28 1/2 inches long and are only expected to 
support 20 pounds of weight, you should not have much of a problem if you add 
the edging strip..

Here are a list of shelf weight limits that should be useful. All numbers are 
for a shelf 30-inches in length and 11 inches wide and the weight limits are in 
pounds per foot.

A plywood shelf 3/4 inch thick will support 13 pounds per foot and that same 
3/4 inch shelf with 2-inch red oak edging will support 39 pounds peer foot. MDF 
3/4 inch, on the other hand, will only support 4 pounds per foot but with a 
2-inch red oak edging it will support 30 pounds per foot.

Eastern white pine, 3/4 inches thick, will support 13 pounds per foot, 1 inch 
thick will support 32 pounds and 3/4 inch with a 2-inch white pine edging also 
will support 32 pounds. If you get into poplar, then the 3/4 inch shelf has a 
weight limit of 17 pounds per foot, 3/4 inch with 2-inch poplar edging will 
support 39 pounds and 1 inch thick poplar will support 41 pounds. For red oak, 
the weight limits are 21 pounds for 3/4 inch, and 47 pounds for either 3/4 inch 
with 2-inch edging or 1 inch thick red oak.

Hope this helps.


 

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Max Robinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> The weather profits are saying we should have a string of 50 degree days 
> starting next week.  That means I will be able to get out to my shop and 
> work on the radio desk.  A friend pointed out a potential problem with my 
> design.  He says if the shelves sag under the weight of some of the 
> equipment the ends of the shelves could pull out of the dados.  How can I 
> secure the ends to the sides to ensure this won't happen.  All shelves have 
> an unsupported span of 28 and a half inches.  One is nine inches deep and is 
> likely to support as much as 20 pounds.  It can be supported along its 
> length  at the back by fastening it to the one quarter inch back panel.  The 
> other is 16 inches deep and is likely to support about the same weight.  The 
> back panel will not extend to that shelf to allow for ventilation.  It will 
> be supported only at the ends by the dados.  What are your thoughts on this. 
> I built a workbench about 35 years ago and the upper level which was for 
> holding test equipment was 6 feet long and one foot wide.  It was supported 
> on 2 by 4s at the ends and along the back.  The front edge began to sag in 
> the middle after about 20 years.  It supported about 40 pounds of stuff.  I 
> don't want my radio desk to sag and come apart after a few years.
> 
> Regards.
> 
> Max.  K 4 O D S.
> 
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
> 
> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Myths about Water Based Finishes

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Terrific material, Lenny -- really complete.

For anyone interested in additional details, there's a comprehensive article 
entitled Waterborne Finishes Come of Age that appeared in Fine Woodworking 
magazine issue 187 page 46. This article was recorded on Woodworking for the 
Blind's Magazine CD #10 recently issued  on December 1, 2006. For those of you 
who may not know, monthly CDs in MP3 format of woodworking magazines and books 
are available free to members. 

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Lenny  McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Myth #1-Lack Of Durability
> 
> Water-based finishes are significantly more durable than their solvent based 
> counterparts in terms of mar, print and abrasion resistance. They are much
> more difficult to sand and remove from a wood surface than solvent based 
> finishes. A typical finish remover will generally require more elbow grease to
> get them off. In fact, a water-based finish based on pure urethane cannot be 
> removed with conventional removers. Only specially formulated, highly 
> aggressive
> removers will take off such a finish. 
> 
> 
> Myth #2 - Lack Of Useful Life 
> 
> Water-based finishes will outlast their solvent-based counterparts by as much 
> as 
> 300%, depending on type of product. For example, a water-based lacquer
> will outlast a conventional nitrocellulose lacquer by 5 to 10 years. A marine 
> spar varnish will last only 4 to 5 months when subjected to Florida's hot
> sun and humid conditions. A marine type water-based polyurethane has a useful 
> life of at least 12 months under the same weather conditions. 
> 
> 
> Myth #3 - Excessive Grain Raising 
> 
> It is a fact that water-based finishes raise the grain from very slight to 
> excessive. The degree of grain raising is a function of type of finish, 
> manufacturer,
> type of wood, application temperature, drying time and, above all, smoothness 
> of 
> the sanded surfaces. It is important to point out that, contrary to false
> belief, some grain raising on the initial coat is necessary to a smooth and 
> good 
> looking finish. On the other hand, excessive grain raising is not good
> productivity wise. 
> 
> Years ago, prior to the development of lacquer sanding sealers, it was a 
> common 
> practice to wet the wood with water in order to raise the grain, then the
> wood was sanded down to remove the dead fibers. Lacquer based sanding sealers 
> were developed to achieve the same thing but with increased productivity.
> They were not designed however, for film building due to being soft and 
> having 
> poor water resistance. Lacquer based sanding sealers were designed to raise
> the grain then be sanded down to bare wood upon application. Their fast 
> drying 
> time was the key utility over wetting the wood surface with water. 
> 
> Not all water based finishes raise the grain equally. The specific 
> manufacturer 
> and the finishes' drying time will dictate the degree of grain raising,
> all other factors being equal such as smoothness of the sanded surface. 
> Smoothness of the sanded wood, which is a key factor, is discussed further. 
> 
> The faster the drying time of a water-based finish the less grain raising 
> will 
> be experienced. A fast drying, spray type water-based lacquer will raise
> the grain minimally, similar to a nitrocellulose lacquer based sanding 
> sealer. A 
> slower drying, brushing type polyurethane will raise the grain more severely.
> Therefore, to minimize grain raising, a water based lacquer should be used 
> and 
> applied by spray. Applying a couple of light coats as initial coats, without
> sanding between the coats, will minimize grain raising as well. Applying a 
> wet 
> initial coat to raw or stained wood will raise the grain more severely.
> Degree of grain raising is inversely proportional to smoothness of the wood's 
> surface. The smoother the sanded surface the less grain raising will be 
> realized.
> Sanding the wood to only 120 grit will generate severe grain raising - 
> sanding 
> to 280 grit will generate none to very slight. On oak, ash, mahogany, poplar
> and walnut, grain raising can be eliminated or prevented by sanding to 280 
> grit. 
> On cherry, maple and pine, grain raising can be eliminated or prevented
> by sanding to 220 grit. 
> 
> It is important to mention that some water-based manufacturers now offer a 
> wood 
> Pre-Sea/product that eliminates grain raising and wood swelling completely.
> Such a product, though still water-based, employs unique resins that block 
> grain 
> raising and wood swelling provided the wood is sanded to 220 grit prior
> to application. In addition, most Wood Pre-Seal products also bring out 
> warmth 
> and color of the wood grain just like a solvent based lacquer. That is,
> on oak wood for instance, they bring out the yellow and red hues that are 
> associated with warmth. 
> 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] CONVERT YOUR TABLE SAW INTO A PRECISION JOINTER

[woodworkingfortheblind]

I don't understand why there is a 3-degree bevel for jointing at 90-degrees.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: John Schwery <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Lenny, neat.  I was wondering if there was such a thing.
> 
> earlier, Lenny  McHugh, wrote:
> 
> >MACHINED ALUMINUM DISC CONVERTS YOUR TABLE SAW 
> >INTO A PRECISION JOINTER AND DISC SANDER
> >--
> >
> >Not just a flat disc with sandpaper, this 
> >machined aluminum sanding disc - 10" dia. with 
> >5/8" arbor hole - has been designed to be used with your table
> >saw and fence to accurately joint edges and sand freehand:
> >
> >Convex side is tapered 3° for 90° jointing; 
> >bevel joint by tilting the arbor - instructions included.
> >Flat side works as a disc sander at any angle.
> >Uses 10" dia., pressure sensitive adhesive 
> >abrasive discs with 3-1/2" center holes - holes 
> >fit over raised rims on either side of sanding disc to ensure
> >proper alignment.
> >
> >http://woodworker.co
> m/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=95-430
> >
> >Lenny 
> >http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> >Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/693 
> >- Release Date: 2/19/2007 5:01 PM
> 
> John
> 
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/693 - Release Date: 2/19/2007 
> 5:01 
> PM
> 
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with table Saws

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Yes, some miter gauges consist only of a bar usually 3/4-inches wide, 
3/8-inches thick and with 90-degrees sides so that it can be lifted up directly 
out of the miter gauge slot.

Other miter gauges slots have a sliding dovetail configuration so that the 
miter gauge bar can only be slid in from the end of the miter gauge slot on the 
edge of the table of the tablesaw. The sliding dovetail configuration locks the 
bar in the slot allowing movement only forward and backward in the slot.

A third type miter gauge uses a square bar but with a stiff washer at the 
leading end that rides in the two angled sides of the dovetailed slot. This 
washer locks the bar into the slot and it can be removed only by pulling the 
miter gauge all the way back to release the washer from the end of the dovetail.

However, all miter gauge bars will fall out of the miter gauge slot if you pull 
the gauge back too far--even the two different sliding dovetail versions. You 
have to use your thumbs to be aware of when the miter gauge is pulled back near 
the edge of the table. This, of course, limits how wide a piece of wood can be 
cut on the tablesaw using a miter gauge.

I have a Delta Contractor's Saw with the square bar plus washer on the miter 
gauge bar that slides in a long sliding dovetail in the table of the tablesaw. 
In using the miter gauge, I'm limited to a board width of 14 inches in 
cross-cutting a board (or 3/4-inches less if you attach an auxiliary fence to 
the miter gauge as I have done).  

If your wood is wider than can be cut in the m,iter gauge, you probably can 
safely cut the piece using the rip fence since there will be plenty of edge 
length to ride securely against the rip fence. Of course, you still have to be 
careful not to angle the board away from the rip fence causing potential 
kickback when the board presses against the side of the blade. Generally this 
means using a push stick of the workpiece along the rip fence and a second push 
stick pushing the opposite side of the workpiece tight against the rip fence.

Hope this helps. 

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Robert J. Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi
> My table saw has a miter gage that the bar is 90 degrees on either side.
> What this means is that the miter gage can be lifted straight up So when the
> part that you hold the stock to is pulled back past the edge of the table it
> falls down and the bar on the gage comes out of the groove. This limits how
> far back I can pull the stock. Do some tables have a gage that slides more
> into a groove type setup so the gage is held down inside the groove while
> you are moving it.
> Hope this makes sence. This is my first table saw so I don't know how others
> are set up.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 1:27 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with table Saws
> 
> thank you Dale. I thinks me got it.
> 
> On Mon, 19 Feb 2007, Dale Leavens wrote:
> 
> > Really there are only two guides. The mitre gauge and the rip fence.
> >
> > The mitre gauge has a long bar which slides in a milled groove in the
> table
> > top and it's fence can be pivoted around the vertical axis usually through
> a
> > little more than 45 degrees left or right of right angles to the direction
> > of the guide bar.
> >
> > The rip fence is a long bar which is oriented parallel to the blade and
> runs
> > on rails one on the leading edge of the saw table the other on the rear
> edge
> > of the table. It can be slid nearer or further from the blade usually to
> the
> > right of the blade. It can be slid right off the end of the rails when
> > desired to be removed.
> >
> > There are a variety of additional sleds and jigs and guides which can be
> > applied to either the mitre gauge or the rip fence.I have a rather
> wonderful
> > tennoning jig which runs in the mitre slot of the table saw and will hold
> a
> > work piece vertically for cutting the cheek cuts. There are feather boards
> > which can be wedged into the mitre slot for keeping stock held firmly
> > against the rip fence as it is being pushed through.
> >
> > Generally the mitre gauge and the rip fence that comes with a saw are less
> > than perfect but replacing them with higher quality can be very expensive.
> > Recently someone here I just now forget who was looking for a replacement
> > for their saw.
> >
> > I just saw a rather wonderful third party rip fence replacement called the
> > AcuSquare available at the sawshop.com while at the woodworking show in
> > London last week. This fence, in addition to being reliably adjustable to
> > absolutely parallel and keeping that way is made of extruded aluminium
> with
> > 'T' slots running it's length on the three exposed surfaces 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning saw blades and router bits

[woodworkingfortheblind]

I keep a plastic container filled with ammonia which I use for the burners on 
our stove. I also place my sawblades in the same ammonia which I've been using 
for three or four years now. One of these days I might even pour in a clean 
supply.

Just yesterday, I placed my Forrest Woodworker II blade in there for a hour or 
so, then wiped it off with a vinyl scouring pad, then dried it. All of the 
pitch came off quickly and easily.

I've never tried kerosene so I don't know if it works. Doesn't seem though like 
it would remove the pitch but why not give it a try. Leave it in either for a 
few hours or even overnight and see what happens.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Keith Christian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi,
> 
> I'd like to keep my saw blades and router bits clean.  Someone mentioned
> a while back that they soak their blades and bits in a bucket with a
> solvent.  
> 
> I have some carasine (SP), would that work well?  Is a soak over night
> and a wipe off with a towel sufficient?  Or do I need to soak with
> something else and brush them with a scrub brush?
> 
> The topics lately have been extremely valuable lately,  
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Keith
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] cleaning planer rollores

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Mickey -- what's the difference between isopropyl alcohol and denatured 
alcohol? Do you know what are the uses for each?

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Mickey Fixsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> You can use isopropyl alcohol on a scotchbrite pad.  Rinse the pad often and 
> then finish with paper towels to dry the rollers and remove any small film 
> residue.
> 
> Good luck
> 
> 
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: Tom Huhn 
>   To: blind 
>   Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:15 PM
>   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cleaning planer rollores
> 
> 
>   BlankHi guys, what is a good way to clean the rubber rollers on my 
> thickness 
>   planer they have a rather thick build up of some gummy stuff thanks Tom
> 
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
>
> 
> 
> --
> 
> 
>   No virus found in this incoming message.
>   Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>   Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/697 - Release Date: 2/22/2007 
> 11:55 AM
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] cleaning planer rollores

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Well thank you very much, Mickey. I knew the two were different and that you 
couldn't use isopropyl alcohol for dissolving shellac but I didn't know why. 
Now I do.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Mickey Fixsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Larry,
> 
> 
> 
> Isopropyl alcohol or isopropanol is a common name for 2-propanol, an alcohol 
> which is the main component of rubbing alcohol. Its chemical structure is:
> 
> Its formula is C3H8O or more descriptively, CH3.CHOH.CH3. This is the alcohol 
> in 
> rubbing alcohol, but rubbing alcohol also contains an oil, such as baby oil. 
> You 
> do not want to use rubbing alcohol to clean items, because it will leave an 
> oil 
> film behind after it dries. Isopropyl alcohol is a good degreaser and will 
> remove adhesive residue like that left after removing tape or stick on 
> labels. 
> It is safe for cleaning rubber products. It can be used as a surface prep 
> cleaner to remove residual oil, grease, finger prints, and more. It will 
> leave a 
> clean, dry surface.
> 
> 
> 
> Denatured alcohol is ethanol (the kind in alcoholic beverages) along with 
> addatives, usually methanol, which makes it unfit for consumption. It is used 
> as 
> an industrial solvent. The main thing that I know it is used for is a solvent 
> for finishes containing shellac. I don't know if it is safe for rubber 
> products 
> as a cleaner.
> 
> 
> 
> Methanol is the type of alcohol that some race cars use to run on instead of 
> gasoline.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> 
> Mickey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 8:32 AM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cleaning planer rollores
> 
> 
>   Mickey -- what's the difference between isopropyl alcohol and denatured 
> alcohol? Do you know what are the uses for each?
> 
>   --
>   Larry Martin
>   Woodworking for the Blind
>   --joining the world of blind wood workers
> 
>   -- Original message --
>   From: "Mickey Fixsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>   > You can use isopropyl alcohol on a scotchbrite pad. Rinse the pad often 
> and 
>   > then finish with paper towels to dry the rollers and remove any small 
> film 
>   > residue.
>   > 
>   > Good luck
>   > 
>   > 
>   > - Original Message - 
>   > From: Tom Huhn 
>   > To: blind 
>   > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:15 PM
>   > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cleaning planer rollores
>   > 
>   > 
>   > BlankHi guys, what is a good way to clean the rubber rollers on my 
> thickness 
>   > planer they have a rather thick build up of some gummy stuff thanks Tom
>   > 
>   > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > --
>   > 
>   > 
>   > No virus found in this incoming message.
>   > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>   > Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/697 - Release Date: 2/22/2007 
>   > 11:55 AM
>   > 
>   > 
>   > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>   > 
> 
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
>
> 
> 
> --
> 
> 
>   No virus found in this incoming message.
>   Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>   Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/697 - Release Date: 2/22/2007 
> 11:55 AM
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home renovation not hindered by blindness

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Don -- I just mistakenly deleted someone's response to this e-mail from you 
before I read it. Is there any chance of getting that re-sent to me?

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> If any one on list  lives around this area, are knows of this guy, we would 
> like  
> to talk  with  this guy on the show.  text follows.   Don
> Home renovation not hindered by blindness
> By Heather Riedel
> 
> "This house was one of the worst properties in the east side of Toledo and
> I'm going to take it to the best property," Ernie Berry said.
> 
> Berry talks about the house he purchased last June as he stumbles around
> boards and scraps. He uses a cane because he doesn't want his guide dog,
> Calypso,
> to step on a nail or a sharp piece of wood.
> 
> "When I'm by myself, I don't mind if I fall down," Berry said after catching
> his footing.
> 
> Berry, who was born blind, is fixing up the 5,000-square-foot pale yellow
> house on Oswald Street, which was built in 1896. He said it used to be a
> "crack
> house with
> 
> 22 people living in it at one time."
> 
> Berry has never let his blindness deter him from hard work. He has two
> degrees from UT, is working toward a master's degree, was an intern in
> Washington,
> D.C., and has twice ran for political office.
> 
> "I was born blind and no one knows why," the 22-year-old said. "The doctors
> never knew why. It's just one of those things."
> 
> In addition to not being able to see what he's doing or where he's going,
> Berry has to walk with a cane, the aftermath of a neurological attack when
> he
> was 16.
> 
> "I don't see anything as being difficult for me," he said. "I just have to
> do it. Giving up is not an option."
> 
> The most difficult task while working on refurbishing the house was the
> demolition part, he said. It took nearly five months to clear the inside of
> the
> house. He said the work went faster because he did it himself.
> 
> "I wasn't afraid of things falling on me because I couldn't have seen them
> anyway," Berry said. "If they hit me, they hit me."
> 
> The house was in horrible shape when he bought it, he said.
> 
> "It was foul-smelling and there were condoms and crack paraphernalia
> everywhere," he said.
> 
> Now, the house is gutted and the only things in it are spider webs draped
> around wooden beams and some scraps on the floor. It is dark and drafty,
> because
> the heat has not been installed yet.
> 
> Berry laughed as he recalled knocking down walls and clearing out the house,
> working well after the sun went down when the property would be dark inside.
> He remembers passing neighbors saying, "Hey Ernie, don't you want a light on
> in there?" or, "It's pretty dark in there."
> 
> "What do I need a light for?" Berry said.
> 
> The house will be a twin-plex that will emulate an Old West End style home,
> Berry said.
> 
> "We're not stopping just because of the weather," Berry said. "We're a month
> ahead of schedule, but no corners will be cut. It's going to be a new home
> in an old building."
> 
> Not busy enough
> Berry said he bought the house because he "needed something else" to work on
> and he wasn't busy enough.
> 
> The project, to which he estimates he has devoted at least 1,500 hours of
> labor since June, is a hobby, he said, and it won't cut into the time he
> spends
> with other commitments during the week.
> 
> One of those commitments is chess. Berry began playing chess at age 5 and
> won the Northwest Ohio Regional Chess Championship in 1998.
> 
> "Everything in life, no matter what it is, is a chess game. You have to
> think ahead," he said while relating his metaphor to the house. "I can see
> the
> finished project and if I can get to the checkmate ahead of schedule, I
> will."
> 
> Along with chess, weight lifting has become an important hobby. After he
> suffered from spastic paraplegia neuropathy, which caused his legs to spasm
> and
> confined him to a wheelchair, he worked to rehabilitate himself and was able
> to walk again. He said he was encouraged to lift weights to strengthen his
> body, but he didn't stop there. His motivation and competitive nature sent
> him to the National Bench Press Competition in Cleveland, where he placed
> fourth.
> 
> Berry also mentors neighborhood children, ages kindergarten through high
> school, teaching them to play chess and training them in weight lifting.
> 
> "I don't want to sacrifice the time I spend with mentoring these kids every
> week," Berry said. "I think one of the most important things is to be a role
> model to someone who looks up to you."
> 
> Along with these hobbies, Berry works full time as the ADA coordinator for
> the City of Toledo, and is attending UT for his master's degree in public
> administration.
> 
> "I love Toledo," Berry said. "Toledo is my home. People haven't said they'd
> entrust me with m

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home renovation not hindered by blindness

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Thanks, Bruce. No, it was not the e-mail you forwarded but one that would have 
been  just after that one. Somebody was responding to Don's e-mail with the 
article.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Brice Mijares" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> is this the one your speaking of?
> Don, you can get a hold of
> Toledo Free Press Staff Writer
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> and maybe he can get you the contact info.
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 7:03 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home renovation not hindered by blindness
> 
> 
> > Don -- I just mistakenly deleted someone's response to this e-mail from 
> > you before I read it. Is there any chance of getting that re-sent to me?
> >
> > --
> > Larry Martin
> > Woodworking for the Blind
> >--joining the world of blind wood workers
> >
> > -- Original message --
> > From: "Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> If any one on list  lives around this area, are knows of this guy, we 
> >> would like
> >> to talk  with  this guy on the show.  text follows.   Don
> >> Home renovation not hindered by blindness
> >> By Heather Riedel
> >>
> >> "This house was one of the worst properties in the east side of Toledo 
> >> and
> >> I'm going to take it to the best property," Ernie Berry said.
> >>
> >> Berry talks about the house he purchased last June as he stumbles around
> >> boards and scraps. He uses a cane because he doesn't want his guide dog,
> >> Calypso,
> >> to step on a nail or a sharp piece of wood.
> >>
> >> "When I'm by myself, I don't mind if I fall down," Berry said after 
> >> catching
> >> his footing.
> >>
> >> Berry, who was born blind, is fixing up the 5,000-square-foot pale yellow
> >> house on Oswald Street, which was built in 1896. He said it used to be a
> >> "crack
> >> house with
> >>
> >> 22 people living in it at one time."
> >>
> >> Berry has never let his blindness deter him from hard work. He has two
> >> degrees from UT, is working toward a master's degree, was an intern in
> >> Washington,
> >> D.C., and has twice ran for political office.
> >>
> >> "I was born blind and no one knows why," the 22-year-old said. "The 
> >> doctors
> >> never knew why. It's just one of those things."
> >>
> >> In addition to not being able to see what he's doing or where he's going,
> >> Berry has to walk with a cane, the aftermath of a neurological attack 
> >> when
> >> he
> >> was 16.
> >>
> >> "I don't see anything as being difficult for me," he said. "I just have 
> >> to
> >> do it. Giving up is not an option."
> >>
> >> The most difficult task while working on refurbishing the house was the
> >> demolition part, he said. It took nearly five months to clear the inside 
> >> of
> >> the
> >> house. He said the work went faster because he did it himself.
> >>
> >> "I wasn't afraid of things falling on me because I couldn't have seen 
> >> them
> >> anyway," Berry said. "If they hit me, they hit me."
> >>
> >> The house was in horrible shape when he bought it, he said.
> >>
> >> "It was foul-smelling and there were condoms and crack paraphernalia
> >> everywhere," he said.
> >>
> >> Now, the house is gutted and the only things in it are spider webs draped
> >> around wooden beams and some scraps on the floor. It is dark and drafty,
> >> because
> >> the heat has not been installed yet.
> >>
> >> Berry laughed as he recalled knocking down walls and clearing out the 
> >> house,
> >> working well after the sun went down when the property would be dark 
> >> inside.
> >> He remembers passing neighbors saying, "Hey Ernie, don't you want a light 
> >> on
> >> in there?" or, "It's pretty dark in there."
> >>
> >> "What do I need a light for?" Berry said.
> >>
> >> The house will be a twin-plex that will emulate an Old West End style 
> >> home,
> >> Berry said.
> >>
> >> "We're not stopping just because of the weather," Berry said. "We're a 
> >> month
> >> ahead of schedule, but no corners will be cut. It's going to be a new 
> >> home
> >> in an old building."
> >>
> >> Not busy enough
> >> Berry said he bought the house because he "needed something else" to work 
> >> on
> >> and he wasn't busy enough.
> >>
> >> The project, to which he estimates he has devoted at least 1,500 hours of
> >> labor since June, is a hobby, he said, and it won't cut into the time he
> >> spends
> >> with other commitments during the week.
> >>
> >> One of those commitments is chess. Berry began playing chess at age 5 and
> >> won the Northwest Ohio Regional Chess Championship in 1998.
> >>
> >> "Everything in life, no matter what it is, is a chess game. You have to
> >> think ahead," he said while relating his metaphor to the house. "I can 
> >> see
> >> the
> >> finished project and if I can get to the checkmate ahead of schedule, I
> >> will."
> >>
> >> Along with chess, weigh

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home renovation not hindered by blindness

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Don --it was a Blind Handyman e-mail that somebody sent to the List in response 
to your e-mail with the article. 

New topic - I also sent an e-mail to the newspaper asking that they forward the 
Blind Handyman website to Ernie Berry.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hello Larry, I'm not following you,  did the message come across the list, 
> are 
> too you.  How about your deleted items folder??  Don
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 9:03 AM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home renovation not hindered by blindness
> 
> 
>   Don -- I just mistakenly deleted someone's response to this e-mail from you 
> before I read it. Is there any chance of getting that re-sent to me?
> 
>   --
>   Larry Martin
>   Woodworking for the Blind
>   --joining the world of blind wood workers
> 
>   -- Original message --
>   From: "Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>   > If any one on list lives around this area, are knows of this guy, we 
> would 
> like 
>   > to talk with this guy on the show. text follows. Don
>   > Home renovation not hindered by blindness
>   > By Heather Riedel
>   > 
>   > "This house was one of the worst properties in the east side of Toledo and
>   > I'm going to take it to the best property," Ernie Berry said.
>   > 
>   > Berry talks about the house he purchased last June as he stumbles around
>   > boards and scraps. He uses a cane because he doesn't want his guide dog,
>   > Calypso,
>   > to step on a nail or a sharp piece of wood.
>   > 
>   > "When I'm by myself, I don't mind if I fall down," Berry said after 
> catching
>   > his footing.
>   > 
>   > Berry, who was born blind, is fixing up the 5,000-square-foot pale yellow
>   > house on Oswald Street, which was built in 1896. He said it used to be a
>   > "crack
>   > house with
>   > 
>   > 22 people living in it at one time."
>   > 
>   > Berry has never let his blindness deter him from hard work. He has two
>   > degrees from UT, is working toward a master's degree, was an intern in
>   > Washington,
>   > D.C., and has twice ran for political office.
>   > 
>   > "I was born blind and no one knows why," the 22-year-old said. "The 
> doctors
>   > never knew why. It's just one of those things."
>   > 
>   > In addition to not being able to see what he's doing or where he's going,
>   > Berry has to walk with a cane, the aftermath of a neurological attack when
>   > he
>   > was 16.
>   > 
>   > "I don't see anything as being difficult for me," he said. "I just have to
>   > do it. Giving up is not an option."
>   > 
>   > The most difficult task while working on refurbishing the house was the
>   > demolition part, he said. It took nearly five months to clear the inside 
> of
>   > the
>   > house. He said the work went faster because he did it himself.
>   > 
>   > "I wasn't afraid of things falling on me because I couldn't have seen them
>   > anyway," Berry said. "If they hit me, they hit me."
>   > 
>   > The house was in horrible shape when he bought it, he said.
>   > 
>   > "It was foul-smelling and there were condoms and crack paraphernalia
>   > everywhere," he said.
>   > 
>   > Now, the house is gutted and the only things in it are spider webs draped
>   > around wooden beams and some scraps on the floor. It is dark and drafty,
>   > because
>   > the heat has not been installed yet.
>   > 
>   > Berry laughed as he recalled knocking down walls and clearing out the 
> house,
>   > working well after the sun went down when the property would be dark 
> inside.
>   > He remembers passing neighbors saying, "Hey Ernie, don't you want a light 
> on
>   > in there?" or, "It's pretty dark in there."
>   > 
>   > "What do I need a light for?" Berry said.
>   > 
>   > The house will be a twin-plex that will emulate an Old West End style 
> home,
>   > Berry said.
>   > 
>   > "We're not stopping just because of the weather," Berry said. "We're a 
> month
>   > ahead of schedule, but no corners will be cut. It's going to be a new home
>   > in an old building."
>   > 
>   > Not busy enough
>   > Berry said he bought the house because he "needed something else" to work 
> on
>   > and he wasn't busy enough.
>   > 
>   > The project, to which he estimates he has devoted at least 1,500 hours of
>   > labor since June, is a hobby, he said, and it won't cut into the time he
>   > spends
>   > with other commitments during the week.
>   > 
>   > One of those commitments is chess. Berry began playing chess at age 5 and
>   > won the Northwest Ohio Regional Chess Championship in 1998.
>   > 
>   > "Everything in life, no matter what it is, is a chess game. You have to
>   > think ahead," he said while relating his metaphor to the house. "I can see
>   > the
>   > finishe

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Seems like a good idea. And you could make a homemade version simply by adding 
a strong magnet like a rare-earth magnet to the end of a metal rod or glue the 
magnet into a wooden dowel or strip of wood.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Lenny  McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> A friend just sent me this information. I took a quick look at the site and 
> they 
> have some interesting items.
> Lenny
> 
> Protect Your Thumb and Clean Up Your Language While Hammering. we talk about 
> devices that no blind or visually impaired person should be without because 
> they 
> improve their lives in some way or another.
> Well, if you work with wood or find yourself hammering nails into things 
> often, 
> I have another gadget for you. This one not only keeps you safe but prevents 
> you 
> from using the colorful language that often occurs when working with a 
> hammer. 
> The inventor of this intelligent gadget must have bruised his thumb many a 
> times 
> while using the hammer. He or she obviously got tired of this and created a 
> device that will help you keep the hammer on the right target. The ThumbSaver 
> was designed and tested by real tradesmen and lends a helping hand when 
> driving 
> nails, screws, fence staples, or just about any fastener. You can use 
> ThumbSaver 
> on nearly any job from fine trim or craft work to the largest framing jobs, 
> building fences, decks or installing joist hangers.
> 
> A strong magnet is machined into the durable ergonomically designed aluminum 
> shaft and finished off with a comfort grip. Just pull the tool out of your 
> pack 
> or tool belt, pick up a fastener with the magnet and drive the nail or screw! 
> Once you use it you will know why it is called the ThumbSaver! The thumbSaver 
> comes with two sizes: large is 7 ½ inches long with a 7/8 inch grip. Mini is 
> 6 
> inches long with a 5/8 inch grip.
> 
> Go to 
> 
> www.Awesometools.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Flexible Pattern Braille cells

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Two ideas,

1 - would it make any sense to take a fine stylus, dip the end in glue, 
andapply a tiny glue drop to the surface?

2 - would it make any sense to use a thin metal strip on its reverse side whre 
you would take a pointed metal punch and tap the surface of the metal strip so 
that a depression is made on the back side and a raised impression on the face 
side?

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: John Freiss <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I need to find a product and this list seems to have good ideas.  I need a 
> flexible peace of metal with two rows of braille dots drilled out in it.  I 
> am 
> trying to glue dots on different items and none have regular flat surfaces.  
> I 
> know I could use dymo tape but it won't work because I need it not to be seen 
> by 
> sighted individuals.  What I have come up with is to use half beads and glue 
> dots.  It works well but now I need to get my spacing down.  This flexible 
> peace 
> of metal needs to go around cylinders, cones, ovals and any other shape in 
> between.  I need it to last as well.
> 
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Especially if there is an off 
> the 
> shelf item someone knows about.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> John
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

But be sure to allow for wood movement of the table top.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Mickey Fixsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Yes, that would be how it works.
> 
> 
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: carl 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 1:33 PM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.
> 
> 
>   pardon my ignorance but cud i use it for mounteing a table topon to a frame 
> ? 
> how wud i doe this drill the pocket and crew down threw the frame and into 
> the 
> under side of the table top?
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: Mickey Fixsen 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 6:25 PM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.
> 
>   I have been using 2 different models of the Kreg pocket hole tools for 
> years. 
> They are quality tools and well worth the price. As long as you have made 
> good 
> cuts on the boards, the pocket holes make very tight, strong joints. These 
> tools 
> are easy to use with very little learning curve.
> 
>   You must use the proper screws to make the system work correctly. All of 
> the 
> screws for this purpose have a flat pan head toward the shank of the screw 
> and 
> the top of the screw head is a low dome with a square drive. There are fine 
> thread self-tapping screws for hardwood and coarse thread self-tapping screws 
> for softwood. I think there are even special thread screws for particle and 
> fiber board, although, I have used the coarse thread screws for this purpose 
> with good results. They are available in various lengths and with different 
> coatings, depending whether for indoor or outdoor use.
> 
>   In my shop, the Kreg pocket hole tools are a "must have" item.
> 
>   Good luck.
> 
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: Dan Rossi 
>   To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 12:14 PM
>   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.
> 
>   So I just read Ray's post on the Kreg R3 pocket hole joinery kit. I don't 
>   know much, or anything, about pocket hole joinery. Has anyone used this 
>   particular kit, or any others? Can anyone give me an idea on whether or 
>   not this R3 kit seems like a worthwhile investment? Or is there another 
>   pocket hole kit that you have used that is just the be all and end all of 
>   pocket joinery?
> 
>   thanks.
> 
>   -- 
>   Blue skies.
>   Dan Rossi
>   Carnegie Mellon University.
>   E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>   Tel: (412) 268-9081
> 
>   --
> 
>   No virus found in this incoming message.
>   Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>   Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.18.8/716 - Release Date: 3/9/2007 
> 6:53 
> PM
> 
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
>
> 
> 
> --
> 
> 
>   No virus found in this incoming message.
>   Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>   Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.18.8/716 - Release Date: 3/9/2007 
> 6:53 
> PM
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Off balance upright washer

[woodworkingfortheblind]

What about wedges tapped under the front frame? If that doesn't work what about 
very long wedges tapped from the front, but long enough to go under the back of 
the frame to raise it and hold it level?

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "David Engebretson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I've got a stacking washer and dryer.  The washer is off balance and bounces 
> all
> over the place.  I need to find a way to balance it.  The legs have threads on
> them, that's how I'm supposed to raise and lower the legs.  Thing is, I can't
> get to the back legs because the washer is tucked into a pocket made just 
> about
> the right size for the washer and dryer stack.
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions concerning how to level it successfully?
> 
> Thanks,
> David
>  
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.15/728 - Release Date: 3/20/2007 
> 8:07
> AM
>  
> 
> 
> 
> To listen to the show archives go to link
>  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
> 
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
> 
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
> 
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List 
> Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
> 
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
> just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] sanding

[woodworkingfortheblind]

leevalley.com has abrasive films that come in extremely fine grits down to 1/2 
microns. Those are the finest available in the market today and are the basis 
for the Scary Sharp sandpaper method. The abraisive films are also sold through 
toolsforwoodworking.com

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "carl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> whair can i get verry fine sand paper knon as flower paper or wet and dry in 
> verry fine grades
> email [EMAIL PROTECTED] skype carlf16 msn [EMAIL PROTECTED] or 
> .com 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] sanding

[woodworkingfortheblind]

In the U.S. 1200 grit is followed by 1500 grit, then 2000 grit. The 
micro-abrasives are much finer yet.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "carl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wud that be the same 1200 grit wet and dry?
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 10:24 PM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sanding
> 
> 
>   leevalley.com has abrasive films that come in extremely fine grits down to 
> 1/2 
> microns. Those are the finest available in the market today and are the basis 
> for the Scary Sharp sandpaper method. The abraisive films are also sold 
> through 
> toolsforwoodworking.com
> 
>   --
>   Larry Martin
>   Woodworking for the Blind
>   --joining the world of blind wood workers
> 
>   -- Original message --
>   From: "carl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>   > whair can i get verry fine sand paper knon as flower paper or wet and dry 
> in 
>   > verry fine grades
>   > email [EMAIL PROTECTED] skype carlf16 msn [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> or 
>   > .com 
>   > 
>   > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>   > 
> 
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
>
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] sanding

[woodworkingfortheblind]

leevalley.com does have international registration. Shipping cost is not 
calculated automatically but will be e-mailed to you on request. They have no 
informationb on customs dutieshat might be charged.

toolsfor workingwood.com does not have any information on shipping 
international.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "carl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wil thay send to the uk?
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 12:36 AM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sanding
> 
> 
>   In the U.S. 1200 grit is followed by 1500 grit, then 2000 grit. The 
> micro-abrasives are much finer yet.
> 
>   --
>   Larry Martin
>   Woodworking for the Blind
>   --joining the world of blind wood workers
> 
>   -- Original message --
>   From: "carl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>   > wud that be the same 1200 grit wet and dry?
>   > - Original Message - 
>   > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   > Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 10:24 PM
>   > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sanding
>   > 
>   > 
>   > leevalley.com has abrasive films that come in extremely fine grits down 
> to 
> 1/2 
>   > microns. Those are the finest available in the market today and are the 
> basis 
>   > for the Scary Sharp sandpaper method. The abraisive films are also sold 
> through 
>   > toolsforwoodworking.com
>   > 
>   > --
>   > Larry Martin
>   > Woodworking for the Blind
>   > --joining the world of blind wood workers
>   > 
>   > -- Original message --
>   > From: "carl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>   > > whair can i get verry fine sand paper knon as flower paper or wet and 
> dry 
> in 
>   > > verry fine grades
>   > > email [EMAIL PROTECTED] skype carlf16 msn 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   > or 
>   > > .com 
>   > > 
>   > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>   > > 
>   > 
>   > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>   > 
> 
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
>
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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<*> To change settings via email:
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<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] sanding

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Suggest you check their website or e-mail them.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "carl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wil thay send to the uk?
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 12:36 AM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sanding
> 
> 
>   In the U.S. 1200 grit is followed by 1500 grit, then 2000 grit. The 
> micro-abrasives are much finer yet.
> 
>   --
>   Larry Martin
>   Woodworking for the Blind
>   --joining the world of blind wood workers
> 
>   -- Original message --
>   From: "carl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>   > wud that be the same 1200 grit wet and dry?
>   > - Original Message - 
>   > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   > Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 10:24 PM
>   > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sanding
>   > 
>   > 
>   > leevalley.com has abrasive films that come in extremely fine grits down 
> to 
> 1/2 
>   > microns. Those are the finest available in the market today and are the 
> basis 
>   > for the Scary Sharp sandpaper method. The abraisive films are also sold 
> through 
>   > toolsforwoodworking.com
>   > 
>   > --
>   > Larry Martin
>   > Woodworking for the Blind
>   > --joining the world of blind wood workers
>   > 
>   > -- Original message --
>   > From: "carl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>   > > whair can i get verry fine sand paper knon as flower paper or wet and 
> dry 
> in 
>   > > verry fine grades
>   > > email [EMAIL PROTECTED] skype carlf16 msn 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   > or 
>   > > .com 
>   > > 
>   > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>   > > 
>   > 
>   > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>   > 
> 
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
>
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] sanding

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Yes. 4/0 or  steel wool is often used after a finish has been applied to 
rub out any imperfections in the finish or dust that may have settled on the 
wet finish. It is also used to reduce a high gloss to a satin finish and 
sometimes is used to apply wax.

But you will not be removing any wood with the steel wool because it is so fine.

Do not use steel wool if you are going to apply a water-based finish afterwards 
because fine little particles of steel wool often remain on the surface and 
they could rust from the moisture and stain the surface.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "carl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> i'v been toald for fine sanding you can use fine wire wul is this trew?
> email [EMAIL PROTECTED] skype carlf16 msn [EMAIL PROTECTED] or 
> .com 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] rotary tool stand

[woodworkingfortheblind]

The Woodcraft catalog carries Accuride Slides. The Accuride 3732 full extension 
drawer slide, Item No. 131201 is 26 inches length, sells at $16.99 per pair or 
$15.30 for five or more pairs. It's rated at 100 pounds per pair for light to 
medium applications.

The Accuride 3832 full extension drawer slide Item no. 124919 is 26 inches 
length, sells at $21.50 per pair or $19.35 for five or more pairs. It's also 
rated at 100 pounds and the first mounting hole is located for the 37mm set 
back used in the European system. This item number is in black and it also 
comes in white epoxy and silver-colored electro-zinc finish (white is a dollar 
more, silver a dollar less than the black).  

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Lenny  McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi Listers,
> Years ago I purchased a craftsman rotary tool stand. I would not recommend 
> that 
> beast to anyone.
> The center has  3 sections that rotate. You are to mount three power tools 
> and 
> two are always under the table.  giving you access to the one that you want 
> to 
> use.
> Anyway I no longer want to use it for it's intended purpose.
> The over all dimensions for the top is 48" wide and 28" deep.
> I am thinking of removing the rotary section and making a solid top. I am 
> considering building large storage drawers in each side. the openings are 
> about 
> 17 1/2 inch wide 22 inch high and 28 inch deep.
> What would be the best way to create these drawers?
> Is there drawer glide that long?
> I am thinking about a 10 inch high and two 6 inches high on each side. For 
> drawers that big and for the shop I presume that I should use 1/2 inch 
> plywood 
> for the bottoms.
> Any and all suggestions welcome.
> 
> Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shopsmyth

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Marc Adams who runs a large woodworking school in Indianapolis and was quite a 
woodworker began his career with a Shopsmith and used it for years.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi Guys,
>  
> I just got off of the phone with a guy in my neighborhood
> who wants to swop me a "Shop-smyth with all of the
> attachments for a race built automatic transmission I don't
> really need or want.
> I went over to his house and looked it over and it seems
> like kind of a cool thing but what the hell! do I know about
> wood-working tools.
> I like the idea of the band saw attachment, the drum sander,
> the freehand grinding wheel and there is a whole bunch of
> very neat shit I don't even know about however being an
> avowed tool junky it looks like something I could learn
> from. 
> Unless I am missing something the idea of a central power
> unit driving a variety of tools kind of appeals to me.
> I am actually considering a project that will throw me
> head-long in to the world of wood-working and would like to
> know if this "Shopsmyth" thing might be a good place to
> start.
>  
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Larry Stansifer 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting Dados

[woodworkingfortheblind]

I raised the question on the Fine Woodworking Knots Forum and have received a 
number of answers that it cannot be done because the arbor isn't long enough, 
the motor's not powerful enough and the blade guard wouldn't allow it. I also 
received a number of answers that were horrified at the question because it 
would be so unsafe to do so.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Keith Christian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi,
>  
> Is it possible to set a Dwalt sliding miter saw to cut dados?  I see on
> the right hand side of the saw a bolt with a wing nut  that may do it.
> It looks like the bolt could be adjusted to control the height of the
> saw blade.  
>  
> Just wondering!
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Keith
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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[BlindHandyMan] finewoodworking.com

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Keith -- if you're interested you can go to www.finewoodworking.com which is a 
wonderful website filled with lots of woodworking information. There are two 
portions to the site. One is free and includes the Knots forum. You have to 
register for it which includes havng a screen name and password but the service 
is free. The Knots forum is a bulletin board or chat site in which you can post 
questions and other members will post answers. Some of the threads really are 
quite good while others seem to be populated by a few smart mouths, etc., but 
generally the site is remarkable. I have raised some difficult questions and 
received some very helpful replies.

The other portion of the site is a paid membership site which includes two very 
useful functions. First is that you have access to all previous articles in 
Fine Woodworking magazine and you can download those articles in .pdf form. The 
second is access to a panel of experts for any questions you have. The experts 
include many authors for the magazines and many are well-known peersonalities 
in the woodworking world. They will give you personal answers and they give the 
answers pretty promptly. Somewhat confusingly, the paid membership site is 
entitled finewoodworking.com, the same name as the website which includes the 
free portion.

I suggest you just go to www.finewoodworking and play around with it and see if 
you like it. Other sites which may be helpful include woodcentral.com. There 
are a few others but right now the names slip my mind. As I think of them, I'll 
let you know.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Keith Christian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi Larry,
>  
> Thanks for asking the question on my behalf.  I am new to much of this
> stuff and I probably will ask more questions that will horrify others!
> But I am learning a lot about what my tools will do for me.
>  
> Keith
>  
>  
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 8:14 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting Dados
> 
> 
> 
> I raised the question on the Fine Woodworking Knots Forum and have
> received a number of answers that it cannot be done because the arbor
> isn't long enough, the motor's not powerful enough and the blade guard
> wouldn't allow it. I also received a number of answers that were
> horrified at the question because it would be so unsafe to do so.
> 
> --
> Larry Martin
> Woodworking for the Blind
> --joining the world of blind wood workers
> 
> -- Original message --
> From: "Keith Christian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>  .net>
> > Hi,
> > 
> > Is it possible to set a Dwalt sliding miter saw to cut dados? I see on
> > the right hand side of the saw a bolt with a wing nut that may do it.
> > It looks like the bolt could be adjusted to control the height of the
> > saw blade. 
> > 
> > Just wondering!
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Keith
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Looking for a specific filler.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

What about Bondo, Dale?

I don't know of any self-levelling wood fillers. All that I know are like thick 
paste.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi,
> 
> I am looking for some sort of self leveling wood filler.
> 
> What I have is some rather poor construction grade plywood I used to form the 
> carcass of my router table. There are high and low spots which I will never 
> sand 
> out and would probably blow through the surface layer in spots if I tried. I 
> could use plaster joint compound and still might but it is pretty brittle 
> when 
> cured, I would like to find something more acrylic but which would puddle in 
> the 
> low spots but remain just that little bit elastic so it doesn't separate from 
> the surface of the wood over time. The intended final finish is paint.
> 
> Does anyone know of such a product?
> 
> 
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Looking for a specific filler.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

p.s. Why not replace the poor grade construction plywood with a melamine top 
that would be very flat and slippery at the same time so that you could easily 
move wood across that surface -- or even lay a thin sheet of melamine on top of 
the existing plywood.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi,
> 
> I am looking for some sort of self leveling wood filler.
> 
> What I have is some rather poor construction grade plywood I used to form the 
> carcass of my router table. There are high and low spots which I will never 
> sand 
> out and would probably blow through the surface layer in spots if I tried. I 
> could use plaster joint compound and still might but it is pretty brittle 
> when 
> cured, I would like to find something more acrylic but which would puddle in 
> the 
> low spots but remain just that little bit elastic so it doesn't separate from 
> the surface of the wood over time. The intended final finish is paint.
> 
> Does anyone know of such a product?
> 
> 
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Dale, that was a thorough and well written response on biscuit joiners.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Max, it wasn't a router he was using although there are router bits for 
> cutting biscuit slots, he was using a specific tool called a biscuit joiner 
> or also called a plate joiner.
> 
> You purchase the biscuits which are actually elongated ovals made of dry and 
> compressed beach wood. They swell when glue is applied. They come in about 
> four sizes.
> 
> The biscuit does fit or should fit pretty well half way into the slot on one 
> side how ever it might have looked to you. As for strength, dowels and 
> biscuits are not primarily for strengthening although they do that. The 
> primary function is to align the joint in most applications. Dowels suffer 
> from the direction of the grain which is usually across the grain of the 
> mating surfaces and glue more firmly attaches in the long direction of the 
> grain. The other main disadvantage of dowels is that accuracy is absolutely 
> critical, not only must the holes align absolutely directly but they must be 
> absolutely in line. Biscuit joinery allows for a little error.
> 
> The plate joiner has a carbide tipped blade which is on a spring loaded 
> travel. There is a fence, these vary from machine to machine but you can set 
> the fence a particular distance from the slot through which the blade will 
> protrude and will be parallel to the slot. Most will allow the fence to be 
> tilted in both directions to allow you to cut slots in mitered assemblies 
> and other angled fixation of differing angles. You can index off the fence 
> or index off the bottom flat surface of the joiner.
> 
> You then set the fence on the face of a board and bring the face with the 
> slot tight against the edge of the board holding it there using a handle 
> built for that purpose then turn on the machine and using the other hand you 
> force the cutter through the slot and into the edge against the springs 
> which plunges the blade into the edge of the board. Release so it runs back 
> out with the spring assist then release the trigger so it shuts off.
> 
> When I built my work bench I made up a frame rather like the shape of angle 
> iron using three quarters plywood one edge to the face of the other and 
> joined those with biscuits. I then mitered the corners and joined them with 
> biscuits and clamped them up square. I might have used screws but I never 
> would have got the corners strong that way and doweling the edges of plywood 
> isn't all that satisfactory or probably reliable.
> 
> when the biscuits get wet with glue not only does the glue bond but they 
> swell and actually if you don't work fairly quickly they can be very 
> difficult to set. This can be a disat\dvantage, Norm has mentioned on a 
> couple of shows that biscuits set too close to the surface can cause slight 
> dimpling to telegraph through the surface as the glue ages and I suppose the 
> wood responds to changes in environmental moisture. On a very smooth finish 
> this can be visible. So far I haven't noticed this.
> 
> There is a new unit out there, called a domino joiner I believe, cuts a more 
> rectangular hole and uses rectangular biscuits and an oscilating cutting 
> action. These work more like floating mortise & tennon joints. I am not 
> otherwise sure of the advantages, if they index easily enough I suppose you 
> could use them to join rails & styles without cutting proper mortise & tenon 
> joints. The biscuit joiners are plenty expensive but these domino joiners 
> are really a lot more costly.
> 
> Generally the correct term is Jointer. The machine is also sometimes called 
> a planer but more usually that refers to a device for thicknessing the face 
> of wood or for the hand held planers more usually with a 3 inch wide cutter 
> head intended primarily for removing stock like the edge of a door. Joiner 
> is sometimes used to refer to a jointer and I hear it more commonly used 
> these days but the manufacturers still seem to refer to them as jointers.
> 
> Hope this helps clear things up for you.
> 
> 
> 
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Max Robinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Blind Handyman" 
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 11:36 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.
> 
> 
> >I have watched only one episode of the Yankee workshop and already I have
> > questions.
> >
> > He did a bisket joint.  They didn't show him making the bisket.  Do you 
> > buy
> > them pre made?  It was elliptical in shape which seems hard to make.  He
> > made the cutout with a plunge router which looked like he was making a
> > basically rectangula

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Early on in this project I was trying to describe the operation of the turning 
motion of a whirligig to a blind woodworker but was not able to get my point 
across. After about five or six explanations, he finally reacted something to 
the effect of how simple it was--why didn't I say so!

That made me realize how much information sighted people gain instantly from a 
mere glance at something. I now try to take my time and first try to re-create 
a picture of what I'm trying to describe so that the blind woodworker gets the 
chance to visualize in his mind just what I'm trying to describe. This is 
especially critical with things like jigs which usually have no relationship to 
the more common objects we run across in life.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Thanks Larry,
> 
> I only hope I didn't leave anything significant out.
> 
> I was surprised to read in one of the magazines you sent along a use of the 
> biscuit joiner to cut grooves by sliding the unit along while running. It 
> never crossed my mind to do so but it is a quick and should be accurate way 
> of cutting for splines and probably even the grooves to receive drawer 
> bottoms and other applications.
> 
> Mine is a porter cable which I have had for four or five years now, it 
> includes a small cutter for #0 biscuits which I have used for mitering 
> frames corners. It means changing the cutter blade but pretty cool.
> 
> I read another article or rather you did but the builder used it to assemble 
> drawer boxes. quick and strong if not classic joinery. For a lot of 
> applications though this is exactly the answer, strong, accurate and fast.
> 
> Any time that list members feel I may be over stepping they should feel free 
> to say so. I often put quite a bit of effort into writing what I think is a 
> clear explanation or description of things I have done or have observed and 
> I do so because I am grateful for others who have taken the trouble to 
> inform me. It is difficult for most of us blind people to learn from 
> observation and sometimes it is just a very simple concept or understanding 
> which, if missed can become a block to building more learning or 
> understanding. This is not unique to the blind but we have fewer 
> opportunities. I just hope to speed the process for others as others have 
> for me.
> 
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 9:39 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.
> 
> 
> > Dale, that was a thorough and well written response on biscuit joiners.
> >
> > --
> > Larry Martin
> > Woodworking for the Blind
> >--joining the world of blind wood workers
> >
> > -- Original message --
> > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Max, it wasn't a router he was using although there are router bits for
> >> cutting biscuit slots, he was using a specific tool called a biscuit 
> >> joiner
> >> or also called a plate joiner.
> >>
> >> You purchase the biscuits which are actually elongated ovals made of dry 
> >> and
> >> compressed beach wood. They swell when glue is applied. They come in 
> >> about
> >> four sizes.
> >>
> >> The biscuit does fit or should fit pretty well half way into the slot on 
> >> one
> >> side how ever it might have looked to you. As for strength, dowels and
> >> biscuits are not primarily for strengthening although they do that. The
> >> primary function is to align the joint in most applications. Dowels 
> >> suffer
> >> from the direction of the grain which is usually across the grain of the
> >> mating surfaces and glue more firmly attaches in the long direction of 
> >> the
> >> grain. The other main disadvantage of dowels is that accuracy is 
> >> absolutely
> >> critical, not only must the holes align absolutely directly but they must 
> >> be
> >> absolutely in line. Biscuit joinery allows for a little error.
> >>
> >> The plate joiner has a carbide tipped blade which is on a spring loaded
> >> travel. There is a fence, these vary from machine to machine but you can 
> >> set
> >> the fence a particular distance from the slot through which the blade 
> >> will
> >> protrude and will be parallel to the slot. Most will allow the fence to 
> >> be
> >> tilted in both directions to allow you to cut slots in mitered assemblies
> >> and other angled fixation of differing angles. You can index off the 
> >> fence
> >> or index off the bottom flat surface of the joiner.
> >>
> >> You then set the fence on the face of a board and bring the face with the
> >> slot tight against the edge of the board holding it there using a handle
> >> built for that purpose t

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

p.s. using a biscuit joiner to cut a running groove in a workpiece never 
crossed my mind either and strikes me as both difficult and dangerous. Keeping 
the workpiece tightly clamped down would seem to be a significant problem.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Thanks Larry,
> 
> I only hope I didn't leave anything significant out.
> 
> I was surprised to read in one of the magazines you sent along a use of the 
> biscuit joiner to cut grooves by sliding the unit along while running. It 
> never crossed my mind to do so but it is a quick and should be accurate way 
> of cutting for splines and probably even the grooves to receive drawer 
> bottoms and other applications.
> 
> Mine is a porter cable which I have had for four or five years now, it 
> includes a small cutter for #0 biscuits which I have used for mitering 
> frames corners. It means changing the cutter blade but pretty cool.
> 
> I read another article or rather you did but the builder used it to assemble 
> drawer boxes. quick and strong if not classic joinery. For a lot of 
> applications though this is exactly the answer, strong, accurate and fast.
> 
> Any time that list members feel I may be over stepping they should feel free 
> to say so. I often put quite a bit of effort into writing what I think is a 
> clear explanation or description of things I have done or have observed and 
> I do so because I am grateful for others who have taken the trouble to 
> inform me. It is difficult for most of us blind people to learn from 
> observation and sometimes it is just a very simple concept or understanding 
> which, if missed can become a block to building more learning or 
> understanding. This is not unique to the blind but we have fewer 
> opportunities. I just hope to speed the process for others as others have 
> for me.
> 
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 9:39 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.
> 
> 
> > Dale, that was a thorough and well written response on biscuit joiners.
> >
> > --
> > Larry Martin
> > Woodworking for the Blind
> >--joining the world of blind wood workers
> >
> > -- Original message --
> > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Max, it wasn't a router he was using although there are router bits for
> >> cutting biscuit slots, he was using a specific tool called a biscuit 
> >> joiner
> >> or also called a plate joiner.
> >>
> >> You purchase the biscuits which are actually elongated ovals made of dry 
> >> and
> >> compressed beach wood. They swell when glue is applied. They come in 
> >> about
> >> four sizes.
> >>
> >> The biscuit does fit or should fit pretty well half way into the slot on 
> >> one
> >> side how ever it might have looked to you. As for strength, dowels and
> >> biscuits are not primarily for strengthening although they do that. The
> >> primary function is to align the joint in most applications. Dowels 
> >> suffer
> >> from the direction of the grain which is usually across the grain of the
> >> mating surfaces and glue more firmly attaches in the long direction of 
> >> the
> >> grain. The other main disadvantage of dowels is that accuracy is 
> >> absolutely
> >> critical, not only must the holes align absolutely directly but they must 
> >> be
> >> absolutely in line. Biscuit joinery allows for a little error.
> >>
> >> The plate joiner has a carbide tipped blade which is on a spring loaded
> >> travel. There is a fence, these vary from machine to machine but you can 
> >> set
> >> the fence a particular distance from the slot through which the blade 
> >> will
> >> protrude and will be parallel to the slot. Most will allow the fence to 
> >> be
> >> tilted in both directions to allow you to cut slots in mitered assemblies
> >> and other angled fixation of differing angles. You can index off the 
> >> fence
> >> or index off the bottom flat surface of the joiner.
> >>
> >> You then set the fence on the face of a board and bring the face with the
> >> slot tight against the edge of the board holding it there using a handle
> >> built for that purpose then turn on the machine and using the other hand 
> >> you
> >> force the cutter through the slot and into the edge against the springs
> >> which plunges the blade into the edge of the board. Release so it runs 
> >> back
> >> out with the spring assist then release the trigger so it shuts off.
> >>
> >> When I built my work bench I made up a frame rather like the shape of 
> >> angle
> >> iron using three quarters plywood one edge to the face of the other and
> >> joined those with biscuits. I then 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Membership Kit is attached. Magazine CDs are sent out monthly ands book CDs on 
an occassional basis.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Max Robinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi Larry.  I guess it's time for me to subscribe to your magazine.  Please 
> post the information again.
> 
> Regards.
> 
> Max.  K 4 O D S.
> 
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
> 
> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 8:39 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.
> 
> 
> > Dale, that was a thorough and well written response on biscuit joiners.
> >
> > --
> > Larry Martin
> > Woodworking for the Blind
> >--joining the world of blind wood workers
> >
> > -- Original message --
> > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Max, it wasn't a router he was using although there are router bits for
> >> cutting biscuit slots, he was using a specific tool called a biscuit 
> >> joiner
> >> or also called a plate joiner.
> >>
> >> You purchase the biscuits which are actually elongated ovals made of dry 
> >> and
> >> compressed beach wood. They swell when glue is applied. They come in 
> >> about
> >> four sizes.
> >>
> >> The biscuit does fit or should fit pretty well half way into the slot on 
> >> one
> >> side how ever it might have looked to you. As for strength, dowels and
> >> biscuits are not primarily for strengthening although they do that. The
> >> primary function is to align the joint in most applications. Dowels 
> >> suffer
> >> from the direction of the grain which is usually across the grain of the
> >> mating surfaces and glue more firmly attaches in the long direction of 
> >> the
> >> grain. The other main disadvantage of dowels is that accuracy is 
> >> absolutely
> >> critical, not only must the holes align absolutely directly but they must 
> >> be
> >> absolutely in line. Biscuit joinery allows for a little error.
> >>
> >> The plate joiner has a carbide tipped blade which is on a spring loaded
> >> travel. There is a fence, these vary from machine to machine but you can 
> >> set
> >> the fence a particular distance from the slot through which the blade 
> >> will
> >> protrude and will be parallel to the slot. Most will allow the fence to 
> >> be
> >> tilted in both directions to allow you to cut slots in mitered assemblies
> >> and other angled fixation of differing angles. You can index off the 
> >> fence
> >> or index off the bottom flat surface of the joiner.
> >>
> >> You then set the fence on the face of a board and bring the face with the
> >> slot tight against the edge of the board holding it there using a handle
> >> built for that purpose then turn on the machine and using the other hand 
> >> you
> >> force the cutter through the slot and into the edge against the springs
> >> which plunges the blade into the edge of the board. Release so it runs 
> >> back
> >> out with the spring assist then release the trigger so it shuts off.
> >>
> >> When I built my work bench I made up a frame rather like the shape of 
> >> angle
> >> iron using three quarters plywood one edge to the face of the other and
> >> joined those with biscuits. I then mitered the corners and joined them 
> >> with
> >> biscuits and clamped them up square. I might have used screws but I never
> >> would have got the corners strong that way and doweling the edges of 
> >> plywood
> >> isn't all that satisfactory or probably reliable.
> >>
> >> when the biscuits get wet with glue not only does the glue bond but they
> >> swell and actually if you don't work fairly quickly they can be very
> >> difficult to set. This can be a disat\dvantage, Norm has mentioned on a
> >> couple of shows that biscuits set too close to the surface can cause 
> >> slight
> >> dimpling to telegraph through the surface as the glue ages and I suppose 
> >> the
> >> wood responds to changes in environmental moisture. On a very smooth 
> >> finish
> >> this can be visible. So far I haven't noticed this.
> >>
> >> There is a new unit out there, called a domino joiner I believe, cuts a 
> >> more
> >> rectangular hole and uses rectangular biscuits and an oscilating cutting
> >> action. These work more like floating mortise & tennon joints. I am not
> >> otherwise sure of the advantages, if they index easily enough I suppose 
> >> you
> >> could use them to join rails & styles without cutting proper mortise & 
> >> tenon
> >> joints. The biscuit joiners are plenty expensive but these domino joiners
> >> are really a lot more costly.
> >>
> >> Generally the correct term is Jointer. The machine is also sometimes 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Aligning small hinges.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Sounds like in one area the carpenter's square is too large and in another area 
the try square is too small. I suggest making a rectangular piece of wood, say 
a 1/4-inch thick hardboard, of the appropriate size to use as a marking square. 
That way you could place it where needed and mark your lines from it. 

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Max Robinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I have a question about aligning small hinges.  My radio desk is finished 
> except for applying the finishing coat.  It will sit in front of an H V A C 
> vent so I made a cutout in the back for the air to come through.  I don't 
> want the cold air to blow on me when I am sitting there so I saved the 
> cutout peace and hinged it to make a trap door I can close when I want to. 
> I couldn't get the hinges aligned right.  They are close enough but I wonder 
> if anyone  has any little tricks.  It is inside and the space is too 
> confined to get a carpenter's square inside and the hinges are too far from 
> the end wall for a trisquare to reach.  This is done and it's not very 
> obvious to someone who sees the desk but if I  ever have to do this again I 
> would like to get it right.
> 
> Regards.
> 
> Max.  K 4 O D S.
> 
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
> 
> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 9:45 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.
> 
> 
> > Thanks Larry,
> >
> > I only hope I didn't leave anything significant out.
> >
> > I was surprised to read in one of the magazines you sent along a use of 
> > the
> > biscuit joiner to cut grooves by sliding the unit along while running. It
> > never crossed my mind to do so but it is a quick and should be accurate 
> > way
> > of cutting for splines and probably even the grooves to receive drawer
> > bottoms and other applications.
> >
> > Mine is a porter cable which I have had for four or five years now, it
> > includes a small cutter for #0 biscuits which I have used for mitering
> > frames corners. It means changing the cutter blade but pretty cool.
> >
> > I read another article or rather you did but the builder used it to 
> > assemble
> > drawer boxes. quick and strong if not classic joinery. For a lot of
> > applications though this is exactly the answer, strong, accurate and fast.
> >
> > Any time that list members feel I may be over stepping they should feel 
> > free
> > to say so. I often put quite a bit of effort into writing what I think is 
> > a
> > clear explanation or description of things I have done or have observed 
> > and
> > I do so because I am grateful for others who have taken the trouble to
> > inform me. It is difficult for most of us blind people to learn from
> > observation and sometimes it is just a very simple concept or 
> > understanding
> > which, if missed can become a block to building more learning or
> > understanding. This is not unique to the blind but we have fewer
> > opportunities. I just hope to speed the process for others as others have
> > for me.
> >
> > Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Skype DaleLeavens
> > Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> >
> >
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: 
> > Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 9:39 AM
> > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.
> >
> >
> >> Dale, that was a thorough and well written response on biscuit joiners.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Larry Martin
> >> Woodworking for the Blind
> >>--joining the world of blind wood workers
> >>
> >> -- Original message --
> >> From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>> Max, it wasn't a router he was using although there are router bits for
> >>> cutting biscuit slots, he was using a specific tool called a biscuit
> >>> joiner
> >>> or also called a plate joiner.
> >>>
> >>> You purchase the biscuits which are actually elongated ovals made of dry
> >>> and
> >>> compressed beach wood. They swell when glue is applied. They come in
> >>> about
> >>> four sizes.
> >>>
> >>> The biscuit does fit or should fit pretty well half way into the slot on
> >>> one
> >>> side how ever it might have looked to you. As for strength, dowels and
> >>> biscuits are not primarily for strengthening although they do that. The
> >>> primary function is to align the joint in most applications. Dowels
> >>> suffer
> >>> from the direction of the grain which is usually across the grain of the
> >>> mating surfaces and glue more firmly attaches in the long direction of
> >>> the
> >>> grain. T

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Go for it, tiger --- or should I say Go for it like a Polar Bear?

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Yes, well my fence sticks out probably over four inches so using that for a 
> reference wouldn't be good except for sheet goods. With it folded up flat 
> though and using the base along a flat surface would allow milling narrower 
> stock. Because I have the tools though I think i would sooner use a slot 
> cutting bit on the router table for say cutting a groove around a sheet of 
> plywood then cutting a tongue on surrounding edge pieces except that it is 
> easier and much quicker to just use biscuits as intended.
> 
> Many years ago I saw Norm Abrams use a bench biscuit joiner. I don't know 
> just how it worked as I can't see but he seemed to have a bench arrangement 
> with a fence and the cutter came up from the bottom when he stepped on a 
> pedal. I am not aware that he has used that in several years but I thought 
> it might be an interesting insert to build for my router table should I ever 
> need to do a lot of biscuit joining. I have not seen such a device since.
> 
> It is really getting on my t*its that here I have all this time on my hands 
> and there my shop sits as it was left a month ago. I can't believe that the 
> Hospital just called "to check on me" with a thought to modified work!
> 
> Sure, the blind guy can do the photocopying and filing. The beggars wouldn't 
> let me near their shop of course. She implied that I would have to use my 
> vacation time for the trip we are taking next week. One more crack like that 
> and I will be exploring the possibilities of total disability and they can 
> start my pension early. Then we will see how much time I can put in my 
> workshop!
> 
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 12:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.
> 
> 
> > p.s. using a biscuit joiner to cut a running groove in a workpiece never 
> > crossed my mind either and strikes me as both difficult and dangerous. 
> > Keeping the workpiece tightly clamped down would seem to be a significant 
> > problem.
> >
> > --
> > Larry Martin
> > Woodworking for the Blind
> >--joining the world of blind wood workers
> >
> > -- Original message --
> > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Thanks Larry,
> >>
> >> I only hope I didn't leave anything significant out.
> >>
> >> I was surprised to read in one of the magazines you sent along a use of 
> >> the
> >> biscuit joiner to cut grooves by sliding the unit along while running. It
> >> never crossed my mind to do so but it is a quick and should be accurate 
> >> way
> >> of cutting for splines and probably even the grooves to receive drawer
> >> bottoms and other applications.
> >>
> >> Mine is a porter cable which I have had for four or five years now, it
> >> includes a small cutter for #0 biscuits which I have used for mitering
> >> frames corners. It means changing the cutter blade but pretty cool.
> >>
> >> I read another article or rather you did but the builder used it to 
> >> assemble
> >> drawer boxes. quick and strong if not classic joinery. For a lot of
> >> applications though this is exactly the answer, strong, accurate and 
> >> fast.
> >>
> >> Any time that list members feel I may be over stepping they should feel 
> >> free
> >> to say so. I often put quite a bit of effort into writing what I think is 
> >> a
> >> clear explanation or description of things I have done or have observed 
> >> and
> >> I do so because I am grateful for others who have taken the trouble to
> >> inform me. It is difficult for most of us blind people to learn from
> >> observation and sometimes it is just a very simple concept or 
> >> understanding
> >> which, if missed can become a block to building more learning or
> >> understanding. This is not unique to the blind but we have fewer
> >> opportunities. I just hope to speed the process for others as others have
> >> for me.
> >>
> >> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> Skype DaleLeavens
> >> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> >>
> >>
> >> - Original Message - 
> >> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> To: 
> >> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 9:39 AM
> >> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.
> >>
> >>
> >> > Dale, that was a thorough and well written response on biscuit joiners.
> >> >
> >> > --
> >> > Larry Martin
> >> > Woodworking for the Blind
> >> >--joining the world of blind wood workers
> >> >
> >> > -- Original message --
> 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

That's possibly the origin of the term biscuit altho the original Lamello Plate 
Joiner came from the Swiss.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Max Robinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Thanks for clearing that up.  He only has half an hour and has to go pretty 
> fast.  That doesn't give much time to explain things.  Also he probably 
> assumes that people have been watching for a long time and he explained that 
> in 1990 so there's no need to do it again.
> 
> Come to think of a couple of things, the bisket looked somewhat like a 
> cookie.  What we in the U S call a cookie is a bisket to the bloody brits. 
> Is that where the name comes from?
> 
> Regards.
> 
> Max.  K 4 O D S.
> 
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
> 
> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 11:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.
> 
> 
> > Max, it wasn't a router he was using although there are router bits for
> > cutting biscuit slots, he was using a specific tool called a biscuit 
> > joiner
> > or also called a plate joiner.
> >
> > You purchase the biscuits which are actually elongated ovals made of dry 
> > and
> > compressed beach wood. They swell when glue is applied. They come in about
> > four sizes.
> >
> > The biscuit does fit or should fit pretty well half way into the slot on 
> > one
> > side how ever it might have looked to you. As for strength, dowels and
> > biscuits are not primarily for strengthening although they do that. The
> > primary function is to align the joint in most applications. Dowels suffer
> > from the direction of the grain which is usually across the grain of the
> > mating surfaces and glue more firmly attaches in the long direction of the
> > grain. The other main disadvantage of dowels is that accuracy is 
> > absolutely
> > critical, not only must the holes align absolutely directly but they must 
> > be
> > absolutely in line. Biscuit joinery allows for a little error.
> >
> > The plate joiner has a carbide tipped blade which is on a spring loaded
> > travel. There is a fence, these vary from machine to machine but you can 
> > set
> > the fence a particular distance from the slot through which the blade will
> > protrude and will be parallel to the slot. Most will allow the fence to be
> > tilted in both directions to allow you to cut slots in mitered assemblies
> > and other angled fixation of differing angles. You can index off the fence
> > or index off the bottom flat surface of the joiner.
> >
> > You then set the fence on the face of a board and bring the face with the
> > slot tight against the edge of the board holding it there using a handle
> > built for that purpose then turn on the machine and using the other hand 
> > you
> > force the cutter through the slot and into the edge against the springs
> > which plunges the blade into the edge of the board. Release so it runs 
> > back
> > out with the spring assist then release the trigger so it shuts off.
> >
> > When I built my work bench I made up a frame rather like the shape of 
> > angle
> > iron using three quarters plywood one edge to the face of the other and
> > joined those with biscuits. I then mitered the corners and joined them 
> > with
> > biscuits and clamped them up square. I might have used screws but I never
> > would have got the corners strong that way and doweling the edges of 
> > plywood
> > isn't all that satisfactory or probably reliable.
> >
> > when the biscuits get wet with glue not only does the glue bond but they
> > swell and actually if you don't work fairly quickly they can be very
> > difficult to set. This can be a disat\dvantage, Norm has mentioned on a
> > couple of shows that biscuits set too close to the surface can cause 
> > slight
> > dimpling to telegraph through the surface as the glue ages and I suppose 
> > the
> > wood responds to changes in environmental moisture. On a very smooth 
> > finish
> > this can be visible. So far I haven't noticed this.
> >
> > There is a new unit out there, called a domino joiner I believe, cuts a 
> > more
> > rectangular hole and uses rectangular biscuits and an oscilating cutting
> > action. These work more like floating mortise & tennon joints. I am not
> > otherwise sure of the advantages, if they index easily enough I suppose 
> > you
> > could use them to join rails & styles without cutting proper mortise & 
> > tenon
> > joints. The biscuit joiners are plenty expensive but these domino joiners
> > are really a lot more costly.
> >
> > Generally the correct term is Jointer. The machine is also sometimes 
> > called
> > a

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Messed up old bench

[woodworkingfortheblind]

There are three choices for outdoor exterior finishes from simple to super 
durable. The two biggest enemies of outdoor wood items are moisture and 
ultraviolet light. Moisture causes the wood to rot and sunlight bleaches out 
the natural color. Both processes undoubtedly are already underway in your 
tabletop but the sanding probably will reveal more of the original condition of 
the wood.

Exterior oil is by far the simplest to apply. Just flow it on , let it soak in 
and wipe off the excess. You can flow it on with a brush, rag or even an 
inexpensive garden hand pump sprayer. Oil offers the least protection and must 
be re-applied annually. It's available at hardware stores, home centers and 
paint stores.

Exterior spar varnish offers more protection from moisture and UV damage but 
requires about 8 coats for most brands and has to be re-coated every few years. 
An epoxy sealer with an exterior varnish topcoat is the most durable and can 
last for many years but the application is more difficult.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi Larry,
> 
> I see that you have had a couple of opinions. As usual though mine is a 
> definite "probably".
> 
> Certainly the ideal tool would probably be a belt sander, failing that a 
> random orbit sander. Depending on how the boards are fixed to the bench 
> maybe a power hand planer or even a medium sized hand plane like a #5 
> Stanley so long as there are no screws or nails fixing the boards down.
> 
> Having said all that, I have, in my distant past done a lot of work with 
> sanding disks in a hand drill and see no reason why you couldn't too. IT 
> takes a little work and isn't elegant but neither is the bench and a lot 
> depends on how you intend to finish it after.
> 
> Don't know how this will translate to your particular grinder, I am not too 
> familiar with them but in a hand drill using a rubber disk with a paper disk 
> I held the disk just slightly tilted so that one half or less of the disk is 
> cutting at any time. Try to keep this running more or less in the direction 
> of the grain for cleanest stock removal, if cutting across the grain it is 
> going to turn out more wavy and choppy. Move back and forth along the 
> direction of the board one at a time usually until you have removed the 
> roughness.The point here is to remove material until you are getting a more 
> or less splinter free flat surface. Take care and check often, it is easy to 
> take a little too much off the edges rounding them and although this is not 
> necessarily too bad to a point it can get out of control.
> 
> Once you get the surface close to how you want it, go to sanding blocks with 
> coarse paper and begin removing the swirls that the disk has left. You will 
> need to work through several grades to get it all out but this is an outside 
> project so probably you don't need to go finer than about 120 grit.
> 
> If you are using an exterior grade stain to protect the wood I recommend 
> something opaque which does not show the wood through. Mostly I use dark 
> walnut, oil based probably is a little more durable but latex goes on easy 
> and cleans up with water and works fine.Only really bad sanding marks will 
> show through and if you have worked with hand sanding for a bit there won't 
> be any of those.
> 
> This is not fine furniture, it is rustic outdoor behind the shed furniture.
> 
> It may be that some of the deck needs replacement when you get looking at it 
> closely enough.
> 
> You can get a pretty decent belt sander for around a hundred bucks if you 
> think you will have future use for one. I don't have a decent random orbit 
> sander but I believe you can get a reasonable one for a similar price. 
> Remember though that if there are arms or other members they will limit your 
> ability to get close to them with a machine sander of any sort.
> 
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 6:28 AM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Messed up old bench
> 
> 
> > Hi gang,
> >
> > I am about to embark on what for me is a huge wood-working
> > project.
> > Behind the Devil Dog brewing shed is an old bench
> > constructed of 2x4's placed edge wise. This means that the
> > seating portion of the bench is the width of the 2x4 rather
> > than the thickness. It is extremely weather worn and I would
> > like to rehab it.
> > I do not own a portable belt sander which I am guessing
> > would be the weapon of choice at least in the beginning
> > stages. I do however own a 6-inch hand-held all purpose
> > grinder that will perform a number of functions depending on
> > the kind o

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Filling Cracks in Wood

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Epoxy glue mixed with sawdust from the same wood type would provide an 
excellent match and would endure all sorts of outdoor weather, but it does have 
to be mixed like chemicals.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Keith Christian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi,
> 
> I am needing to fill some cracks between lumber and to fix some screw-up
> from my routering. It is on a patio that gets southern exposure and some
> rain, when we actually get some!  The cracks are not more than a quarter
> inch wide, but there are parts where it has a gap for 10 to 12 inches.
> I can fill in the gouges from the router and sand it out.
> 
> Would wood puddy be a good choice?  Is it a concern about it crumbling
> after it dries or getting exposure to the elements?  I plan on priming
> and painting over it. I would like to keep the compound simple.  I
> really don't want to have to mix chemicals like you do with bondo.
> 
> Thanks for any suggestions.
> 
> Keith
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

[woodworkingfortheblind]

As to shrinking the hole in your basement wall -- I had what is called a jump 
wall which bridgedthe wall along the full basement area and the wall along the 
crawl space area. That meant that there was a hole about 18 inches wide and 14 
or 15 inches high. Water would often leak into the crawl space area but over 
the last few years more and more water was coming in. I had the hole filled 
with hydraulic cement (or some term similar to that) and the problem seems to 
be taken care of now. That type of product would seem to work to shrink your 
hole.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: Scott Howell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Folks, here's another issue I need to deal with.
> 
> We have this 2 by 4 foot hole in the wall where one accesses the  
> water meter and  shutoff valves. Here's the deal, I want to shrink  
> the hole a good bit and this would also please my wife. So what I  
> want to do is remove the two old gate valves which aren't really  
> leaking, but if you turn them off, they tend to drip and well they  
> are getting a lot of settament built up on them. I figure they are  
> gonna faile and yes they do, I had this happen in my previous home.  
> Well the idea is to replace these with ball-valves which are nearly  
> fail proof. So, since I don't swet pipes and not sure if I could do  
> it or explain to my wife how to do it, I was wondering if first would  
> it be code (I live in Maryland) or could it be up to code to use  
> compression fittings and secondly would it be a wise idea to begin with.
> My other thought is while I'm thinking about all this, I may look to  
> a pipe replacement project at some point, either a little at a time  
> or might go all out. I'm considering PEX or some similar material and  
> so would need to mate this with coper since I'm working from the main  
> line into the house  and the meter has a valve on either side and of  
> course its all coper.
> Any thought appreciated.
> 
> tnx
> 
> Scott
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] sharpening tools

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Here is a list of articles dealing with sharpening that have been recorded on 
CDs by Woodworking for the Blind over the past year. 

Magazine CD 1 has an article on Sharpening Machines from Fine Woodworking 182, 
p. 38.

Magazine CD 4 has Sharpen With Sandpaper from Fine Woodworking 184, p. 63.

Magazine CD 12 has Keeping Tools Sharp from Fine Woodworking 189, p. 80. 

Magazine CD 7 has Bowl Gouge Sharpening from American Woodworker 123, p. 78.

Magazine CD 9 has Slow Speed Grinders from American Woodworker 124, p. 62.

Magazine CD 10 has Tune-up an Old Chisel from American Woodworker 125, p. 79.

Magazine CD 14 has Reshaping the Skew Chisel from American Woodworker 127, p. 
40 as well as Jet's Slow Speed Wet Sharpener from Woodcraft 13 dated January, 
2007, p. 67 and Pinnacle Honing Guide from Woodcraft 14 dated March, 2007, p. 
66.

Magazine CD 7 has Sharpening Drill Bits from Woodsmith 160, p. 12.

I cite the magazine name, issue number and page number to help in finding the 
article on the CD. 

The book Complete Manual of Woodworking issued on Book CDs 3 and 4 also has 
sections on sharpening which are fairly general in approach.

Any member joining after the time a CD was issued can request back copies so 
that you have a complete library. Any blind woodworker not yet a member can 
join by contacting [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Hope this helps.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers


To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] sharpening tools

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Usually this is done by hand, first tilting the gouge to get the proper bevel 
angle and then smoothly rolling the gouge across the grinder at the same angle 
to sharpen it from edge to edge. It takes a lot of practice.

There are newer tools like the Wolverine sharpening jig that enable you to set 
the angle and easily roll it from side to side while maintaining the angle. 

Go to www.leevalley.com or woodcraft.com and look up Wolverine.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "carl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wil that work with gouges and how wud you matain the right angle for the 
> bevel?
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: rj 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 3:02 PM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sharpening tools
> 
> 
>   A fine file.
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: carl 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:43 AM
>   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] sharpening tools
> 
>   what is the best way to sharpen tools i don't think i'd feal safe with a 
> dry 
> grinderr thay run to fast?
>   email [EMAIL PROTECTED] skype carlf16 msn [EMAIL PROTECTED] or 
> .com 
> 
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
>
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Veritas Sharpening System

[woodworkingfortheblind]

The Veritas sharpening system, Item No. 05M02.10, consists of an angle-setting 
jig for bvevels and a precision honing guide. To set-up the system you insert 
of chisel into the honing guide and clamp it very lightly so you can still 
adjust  the chisel within the guide. Then you take the chisel and insert the 
tip carefully into the angle-setting jig. The jig consists of a 6-inch long 
base with a pentagon wheel attached to one end. The whell has bevelled 
undersurfaces set to 15 degrees, 20, 25, 30 and 35 degrees. Choose the angle 
you want, say 25 degrees for a chisel. Then slide the chisel, bevel down, tight 
against the angle-setting jig until the the face of the tool is flush with the 
pentagon wheel face. When it is tight, then clamp the tool firmly in the honing 
guide. Now you're ready to hold the end of the blade on the sandpaper or stone 
and begin rolling the guide forward and back until a satisfactory bevel is 
formed. This honing guide can also be set to add two microbevels after
 you've finished with the main bevel.

I use this system. The honing guide is terrific because the rolling wheel is 1 
1/4 inches long which makes it easy to keep it flat on the stone or sandpaper. 
Also, the microbevels can be honed quickly and they make the chisels extremely 
sharp. The angle-setting jig is another matter. I am sighted and I have a great 
deal of difficulty using the jig and seeing if the chisel is flush against the 
bevelled face of the pentagon wheel. I can't think of a practical way for a 
blind woodworker to use the angle-setting jig other than by feel.

To do it, have the angle-setting jig lying on a work surface with the pentagon 
wheel to the right and the flat surface of the base to the left. Put your right 
hand over the pentagon wheel and use your thumb and index finger to hold the 
blade firmly in the jig with the point in tight and the blade flush up against 
the bevelled surface on the underside of the wheel. Use your left hand thumb 
and index finger to slide the honing guide forward until the play has been 
taken out and the guide is tight against the blade. Do not exert too much 
pressure on the blade or it will tilt out of flush with the bevelled face of 
the jig. Then tighten the locking screw on top. 

After just doing this, I measured the distance on top of the plane iron blade 
from its sharp edge back to the gripping disk of the clamp. That distance was 1 
7/32 inches or 31.5 millimeters for the 30-degree setting. At 25-degrees it was 
1 11/16 inches or 42 millimeters.

An alternative honing guide is the Ecclipse-type guide which consists of a 
small clamp on a threaded rod with a small 1/2-inch rolling wheel also mounted 
on the threaded rod. Tighten the threaded rod to loosely clamp the chisel or 
plane iron blade into the jig. Then measure the distance from the tip of the 
blade to the jig. This distance sets the angle of the bevel. The instructions 
say to use 30 millimeters or 1 3/16-inches for 30 degrees for a chisel and 40 
millimeters or 1 5/8 inches for 25 degrees for a chisel. For a plane iron, use 
38 millimeters or  1 1/2 inches for 30 degrees for a plane iron or 50 
millimeters or 2 inches for 25 degrees for a plane iron. I do not understand 
why there is a difference for chisels and plane irons.

These Ecclipse-type measurements are different from the measurements I got on 
the Veritas angle-setting jig and I do not understand why.

>From all that I have read there does not seem to be any particular magic in 
>getting the bevel exactly at 25 degrees or 30 degrees. Close seems to be good 
>enough. A chisel ground at 25 1/2 degrees or 26  degrees should perform nearly 
>identically with a chisel ground at exactly 25 degrees. What is magical, 
>however, is keeping the angle consistent once it is ground. 

Of course, there is a major difference between grinding and honing. Grinding is 
done on a grinding wheel with the purpose of setting the angle of the bevel, of 
grinding the bevel to a point and making the edge square to the sides. Honing 
is the next process carried out with fine sandpapers or oil stones or water 
stones. The rougher grits smooth out the scratches from the grinding so that 
the face of the bevel meets the back of the chisel or plane iron in an 
extremely thin point. The finer grits polish the bevel to remove scratches from 
the coarser abrasive and to bring the edge to an extremely fine edge point 
which makes the chisel or plane iron super sharp.



--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Thank you for this Ralph.
> 
> Do you think you would be able to set the angle on a new chisel by resting 
> it in the guide and feeling when the bevel is flat on your stone then 
> setting the guide?
> 
> Not having had one in my hands yet I have no idea if this is practical.
> 
> The bevel on a plane blade is prob

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Veritas Sharpening System

[woodworkingfortheblind]

You're welcome!

In my earlier e-mail I did not include anything on the Veritas Mark II Honing 
Guide which I do not have and have not used. It seems to be a souped-up version 
of the original Veritas sharpening system. The catalog lists the Mark II Honing 
Guide as Item Number 05M09.01 and the description reads: The key to consistent 
and fast honing is repeatability and this guide delivers it in spades. It will 
set angles from 15 degrees to 54 degrees and a range of back bevels from 10 
degrees to 20 degrees. It can easily accomodate chisels as narrow as 1/4 inch 
and blades as wide as 2 7/8 inches and up to 1/2 inch thick. The 
blade-registration jig slides onto the guide body, centering and squaring the 
blade with an integral fence. The blade stop has discrete positions for preset 
bevel angles. Features a three position eccentric roller, allowing you to hone 
micro-bevels quickly and accurately with only a turn of a knob. Manufactured 
from die-cast zinc alloy with precision machined brass and steel par
ts. For the user, this means quick, accurate sharpening and perfectly 
repeatable results, reducing unnecessary stone and blade wear. End of 
description.

The photo shows the blade regstration guide to be an aluminum plate about 2 
inches wide and 6 inches long. A series of lines are marked across the face of 
the plate indicating registration for various angles. There is a C-clamp type 
stop along one edge which is the registration blade stop. It tightens with a 
knurled knob and there are detents along the long edge for exact positioning of 
the stop. This feature would be very useful to blind woodworkers although you 
would have to know which angle  corresponds to which detent. The registration 
jig attaches to the guide body with a knurled knob. 

There are two different scales for registration. A red scale is for high angles 
of 25, 30, 35 40, 45, 50 and 54 degrees. A yellow scale is for standard angles 
of 20, 25, 30, 35 and 40 degrees. The red and yellow registration marks are 
different. For instance, the red high angle line of 40 degrees coincides with 
the yellow standard angle of 30 degrees. I do not know why there is this 
difference and do not know their definition of high angles. This registration 
guide seems to be much simpler to operate than the angle jig in the original 
system.

The Mark II honing guide is an advanced version of the original honing guide 
described in the earlier Veritas Sharpening System e-mail.

The micro-bevel sharpening echnique is amazing. There is a knob on the side of 
the honing guide which can be pulled out slightly to turn it to a new position. 
Honing is done with the knob mark in the up or 12 o'clock position. Say you are 
honing at 25 degrees. When finished, turn the knob to the middle or 3 o'clock 
position and you can quickly hone a 1 degree microbevel at 26 degrees. Next, 
turn the knob to the down or 6 o'clock position and quickly hone an additional 
1 degree microbevel at 27 degrees. It takes only a few strokes on the stone to 
hone each microbevel. I think it's a fabulous technique. The honing of the 
microbevels goes so quickly because you are honing such a very small angle and 
removing just a tiny amount of steel.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: Dan Rossi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Larry,
> 
> You rock!  Thanks very much for this information.
> 
> 
> -- 
> Blue skies.
> Dan Rossi
> Carnegie Mellon University.
> E-Mail:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel:  (412) 268-9081




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Emailing: Future Aids - Raised-Line Drawing Board.htm

[woodworkingfortheblind]

And just now I finished cutting out templates for your Woodworker Sawing a Log 
whirligig. I will take them to the Post Office in the morning.

I'm interested in hearing how your Raised-Line Drawing Board works. I'd love to 
read a detailed review of it after your try it out for awhile.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Rob Monitor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Future Aids - Raised-Line Drawing BoardHi, I just got this raised drawing 
> board 
> and I'm trying it for tracing shapes on to a piece of paper and then taking 
> the 
> paper and taping it to a board and cutting the shape with my scroll saw... 
> Let 
> you guys know  how it goes in a day or two..
> ROB and his LEADER DOG EDDY
>  
> 
> 
> 1-800-987-1231
> 
> 
> Black-and-White Site  
> Departments 
>   
>   
>   
>   
>   
>
> About Us 
>   
>   
>   
>  Sub-Departments in Toys and Games
> 
> 
>   Raised-Line Drawing Board 
>   Make Tactile Pictures with a Regular Pen and Paper 
>Larger Picture Here's a revolutionary new product! How many times has 
> your blind child wanted to draw a picture - just like his sighted friends? Or 
> have you (as a teacher) ever needed to draw your visually impaired student a 
> diagram that she can actually feel? 
> 
>   Our Tactile Drawing Board is a simple and effective tool you can use to 
> do 
> both these things - and more. Basically, you just place a regular 8.5" X 11" 
> sheet of paper into the frame on this specially-designed wooden board. Then, 
> using an ordinary pen or Braille stylus, simply draw whatever you like - 
> pressing firmly. Instantly, you'll be able to feel a clear outline of what 
> you've drawn. And when you flip the page over, you'll have a perfectly-raised 
> diagram on the reverse side - and every detail will easily be felt. 
> 
>   Never before has there been such an awesome raised drawing system 
> available to the blind. Now, blind kids can draw pictures to their hearts' 
> content; and, in seconds, parents and teachers can produce tactile diagrams 
> of 
> formerly "visual concepts". Perhaps best of all, you don't need any 
> specialized, 
> expensive plastic sheets or writing instruments to do it - thin copy paper or 
> even thick Braille paper will work nicely! 
> 
>   Measures about 11" L, 10" W, .5" H. 
> 
>Price: $14.95  
>   Quantity:  
> 
> Continue Shopping 
> 
> 
>   (From the Toy Department shelf.) 
> 
> 
>   Related Products:
>Wikki Stix 
>   Create all Sorts of Raised Crafts and Drawings 
>   $5.95 
>   Tell Me More 
> 
>Peg-a-Shape 
>   Use Dot-Like Pegs to Make Pictures on Wood Board 
>   $9.95 
>   Tell Me More 
> 
>   
>   
>
> 
> 
> 
>   Looking for a particular book or product? Just punch in the title or 
> item 
> name, and one of our sales clerks will run and see if we've got it in stock. 
> 
> 
>   Copyright © 1997-2007, MarvelSoft Enterprises, Inc. ALL RIGHTS 
> RESERVED. 
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[BlindHandyMan] Sabersaw vs. Jigsaw vs. Scroll Saw vs. Bandsaw

[woodworkingfortheblind]

I use those terms differently than some of the postings. To me  a sabersaw is 
an older small hand held power tool with a short reciprocating blade about 3 
inches in length and 1/4-inch or so in width (attached at top to the tool but 
open and free at the other end) such as an economy class consumer-type hoobyist 
tool. Now I also have a newer and slightly larger hand held power tool model 
with a reciprocating blade which is actually labelled as a jigsaw but it 
operates to much greater tolerances and is a respectable woodworker's tool, but 
to me it is still a saber saw. 

To me, a jigsaw is not a hand held tool but a bench top tool with a longer 
reciprocating blade attached at both top and bottom of the blade. The blades 
give pretty good service before dulling. Saber saw and jigsaw blades break 
under stress as from turning too tight of a curve but they break only 
infrequently.

A scroll saw is a specialized tool with a very thin reciprocating blade with 
very little up and down movement designed usually for cutting fairly thin 
materials such as 1/4-inch thick plywood for crafts but also able to cut larger 
stock at a slower rate and nicely able to make extremely fine cuts of stacked 
veneers for marquetry work or delicate cut-outs from thin stock. I use a scroll 
saw to cut table aprons with pierced fretwork of grape or ivy vine patterns 
with leaves, monograms, etc. The blades dull ratherly quickly and break just as 
often. I never begin a scroll work job without a number of extra blades on hand 
and I change the blade just as soon as its easy cutting declines. The blade is 
easily detachable so that it can be threaded through drilled holes to give 
access to inside cuts. On a table apron I may have around a hundred such inside 
cuts so easy detachability and re-attaching is important.

The bandsaw has a blade which is a complete circle and the blade runs in an 
oval on two wheels usually. A few machines have three wheels so that the blade 
runs around the three wheels in a rounded triangular fashion. The bandsaw 
cannot be used to start an inside cut within the fixed or solid perimeter of a 
piece. 

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> well, then I say "be very careful".
> I love mine. The thinner the blade, and the corser the blade the better 
> for turning. But whew! it can start a canal on a fingertip.
> Of course for very straight, hahahahaha, cuts, one can use a blade without 
> many tangential burrs, and feel the side of the blade;. But I get the 
> feeling that my makita likes to run, so I dial it down at any sign of 
> necessity.
> 
> Clamped it to the side of my mom's open basement steps and ran a piece of 
> molding between the step and the blade, and surpised both of us with how 
> nicely it made the right size piece of trim.
> 
> 
> 
> On Fri, 20 Apr 2007, Rob Monitor wrote:
> 
> > YES YOU GOT IT...
> >  - Original Message -
> >  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> >  Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 11:24 PM
> >  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Emailing: Future Aids - Raised-Line Drawing 
> Board.htm
> >
> >
> >  So is a jigsaw, and a sabersaw, and a scroll saw,
> >  the thing that looks like a foot log sewing machine with a saw blade
> >  instead of a needle on the end of a pistoning arm, all the same thing?
> >
> >  On Thu, 19 Apr 2007, Victor Gouveia wrote:
> >
> >  > Hi Rob,
> >  >
> >  > I know what a scroll saw is and what it looks like, I've just never been
> >  > partial to putting my finger anywhere near a moving blade, jigsaw or
> >  > otherwise.
> >  >
> >  > I've heard horror stories of people getting their fingers too close to 
> > one
> >  > of those blades while chopping up meat at the local grocery store, and
> >  > people end up getting fingers along with the cuts of meat they buy.
> >  >
> >  > Like I said, I just get weary of my fingers going anywhere near a moving
> >  > blade.
> >  >
> >  > Oh, and by the way, I also had a hard time explaining what a scroll saw 
> > was
> >  > to a friend of mine here, and heck, if it wasn't just as difficult to
> >  > explain as nuclear fission, but I think I can explain nuclear fission a 
> > lot
> >  > easier than I could a scroll saw. Grin.
> >  >
> >  > Victor
> >  >
> >  >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sabersaw vs. Jigsaw vs. Scroll Saw vs. Bandsaw

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Well, it certainly does!

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I agree, I think of a sabersaw the same way you do.  Does that say something  
> about our age, or what?  Good post.  Don
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 10:09 AM
>   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sabersaw vs. Jigsaw vs. Scroll Saw vs. Bandsaw
> 
> 
>   I use those terms differently than some of the postings. To me a sabersaw 
> is 
> an older small hand held power tool with a short reciprocating blade about 3 
> inches in length and 1/4-inch or so in width (attached at top to the tool but 
> open and free at the other end) such as an economy class consumer-type 
> hoobyist 
> tool. Now I also have a newer and slightly larger hand held power tool model 
> with a reciprocating blade which is actually labelled as a jigsaw but it 
> operates to much greater tolerances and is a respectable woodworker's tool, 
> but 
> to me it is still a saber saw. 
> 
>   To me, a jigsaw is not a hand held tool but a bench top tool with a longer 
> reciprocating blade attached at both top and bottom of the blade. The blades 
> give pretty good service before dulling. Saber saw and jigsaw blades break 
> under 
> stress as from turning too tight of a curve but they break only infrequently.
> 
>   A scroll saw is a specialized tool with a very thin reciprocating blade 
> with 
> very little up and down movement designed usually for cutting fairly thin 
> materials such as 1/4-inch thick plywood for crafts but also able to cut 
> larger 
> stock at a slower rate and nicely able to make extremely fine cuts of stacked 
> veneers for marquetry work or delicate cut-outs from thin stock. I use a 
> scroll 
> saw to cut table aprons with pierced fretwork of grape or ivy vine patterns 
> with 
> leaves, monograms, etc. The blades dull ratherly quickly and break just as 
> often. I never begin a scroll work job without a number of extra blades on 
> hand 
> and I change the blade just as soon as its easy cutting declines. The blade 
> is 
> easily detachable so that it can be threaded through drilled holes to give 
> access to inside cuts. On a table apron I may have around a hundred such 
> inside 
> cuts so easy detachability and re-attaching is important.
> 
>   The bandsaw has a blade which is a complete circle and the blade runs in an 
> oval on two wheels usually. A few machines have three wheels so that the 
> blade 
> runs around the three wheels in a rounded triangular fashion. The bandsaw 
> cannot 
> be used to start an inside cut within the fixed or solid perimeter of a 
> piece. 
> 
>   --
>   Larry Martin
>   Woodworking for the Blind
>   --joining the world of blind wood workers
> 
>   -- Original message --
>   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>   > well, then I say "be very careful".
>   > I love mine. The thinner the blade, and the corser the blade the better 
>   > for turning. But whew! it can start a canal on a fingertip.
>   > Of course for very straight, hahahahaha, cuts, one can use a blade 
> without 
>   > many tangential burrs, and feel the side of the blade;. But I get the 
>   > feeling that my makita likes to run, so I dial it down at any sign of 
>   > necessity.
>   > 
>   > Clamped it to the side of my mom's open basement steps and ran a piece of 
>   > molding between the step and the blade, and surpised both of us with how 
>   > nicely it made the right size piece of trim.
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > On Fri, 20 Apr 2007, Rob Monitor wrote:
>   > 
>   > > YES YOU GOT IT...
>   > > - Original Message -
>   > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>   > > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>   > > Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 11:24 PM
>   > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Emailing: Future Aids - Raised-Line 
> Drawing 
>   > Board.htm
>   > >
>   > >
>   > > So is a jigsaw, and a sabersaw, and a scroll saw,
>   > > the thing that looks like a foot log sewing machine with a saw blade
>   > > instead of a needle on the end of a pistoning arm, all the same thing?
>   > >
>   > > On Thu, 19 Apr 2007, Victor Gouveia wrote:
>   > >
>   > > > Hi Rob,
>   > > >
>   > > > I know what a scroll saw is and what it looks like, I've just never 
> been
>   > > > partial to putting my finger anywhere near a moving blade, jigsaw or
>   > > > otherwise.
>   > > >
>   > > > I've heard horror stories of people getting their fingers too close 
> to 
> one
>   > > > of those blades while chopping up meat at the local grocery store, and
>   > > > people end up getting fingers along with the cuts of meat they buy.
>   > > >
>   > > > Like I said, I just get weary of my fingers going anywhere near a 
> moving
>   > > > blade.
>   > > >
>   > > > Oh, and by the way, I also had a hard time explaining what a scroll 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Another question

[woodworkingfortheblind]

The area is 21.6 square feet.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Jeff Kisecker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> How would I figure the square footage of a triangle?
> 
> The dimensions are base 12 ft., and each side is 7 ft. This is another area
> that I am going to put rock in as a low spot in our yard.  Thanks, Jeff
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Steaks for marking your spot

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Why not simple bamboo sticks?

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "tunecollector" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Three hundred!  Are you exporting to Ireland or something?  Try cutting up
> some baseboard trim.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Robert J. Moore
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 5:26 PM
> To: Blind Handyman
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Steaks for marking your spot
> 
> Folks
> I know this is not a garden list but the question I have really has more to
> do with types of material to use so I figure I have come to the right place.
> Hear it is.
> I am getting ready to start my garden and I want to mark each of about 300
> potato plants so I can dig them up in the fall.
> Question is, what type of sticks, pipes, poles, rods sticks or what ever the
> case may be, is the most economical yet durable and practicalfor this
> application.
> There is a lot out there to choose from and I know that there is problbly
> not one write answer.
> Some one on the garden list suggested rebar. Only trouble is I would
> probably need to go buy some type of special hand held power tool to cut
> this crap.
> Hmmm actually now that I think about that option it would give me a good
> excuse to justify buying a new tool.
> But really what do you all think. Robert
> robert
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> __ NOD32 2225 (20070427) Information __
> 
> This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
> http://www.eset.com
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] calculating the area of a triangle

[woodworkingfortheblind]

The formula for the area of a triangle is one-half times the base times the 
height.

Your triangle has a base of 12 feet and two other sides each at 7 feet. The 
height is unknown. Drop a line down from the point of the triangle to the base. 
This divides the triangle into two equal halves which each are right triangles. 
The formula for the sides of a right triangle are the Pythagorean theorem that 
states A-squared plus B-squared equals C-squared where "C" is the hypotneuse or 
the side opposite the right angle, and A and B are the remaining two sides. In 
your case, you know C, the hypotneuse, is 7 and B, the base is 6 or one-half of 
12 (since you divided the triangle into two parts). The formula then is 
reworked to read C-squared minus B-squared equals A-squared. In numerals that 
is 7-squared or 49 minus 6-squared or 36. The answer of 13 is A-squared and the 
square root of 13 is 3.6. that number is the height of the right triangle.

So now to apply the area formula of one-half times base time height. The base 
is 6, height is 3.6 which multiplied equals 21.6 and half of that is 10.8. 
Remember that you have two parts of the original triangle. The second part has 
the same area as the first, or another 10.8. Putting the two together gives you 
21.6 square feet.

The method and formula also work when all sides of the triangle are unequal. 
Say that you triangle has a 12 foot base and was 7 feet on one side but only 6 
feet on the other. You would need to do some actual measurements or scale the 
measurements to figure out the answer. When you drop a line from the upper 
point of the triangle to the base, in the case of unequal sides the line would 
not split the base exactly in half  and one portion of the base would be longer 
than the other. Once you determine the measurements along the base line then 
follow the same method and formula to get the answers.

Good luck in coding it.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "David Ferrin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Would somebody please try posting this information again but in English this 
> time? I'd like to put it up on the web, unfortunately never having 
> trigonometry none of it made any sense to me enough to code in an HTML file 
> at least. Also please use an example to explain the formula.
> David Ferrin
> Never purchase the first version of anything. This message brought to you by 
> Windows Vista. Smart Computing March 2007 
> 
> 
> 
> To listen to the show archives go to link
>  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
> 
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
> 
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
> 
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List 
> Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
> 
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
> just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 



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Re: (more information)[BlindHandyMan] calculating the area of a triangle

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Pretty clever, Lenny!

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Lenny  McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi David and all,
> The formulas mention finding the square root. Since my talking calculater 
> does not have the square root function built in I use this technique. Hope 
> my math is correct and that it is written well enough.
> Lenny
> The perfect squares are obvious for example 3 squared is 9, 4 squared is 16, 
> 5 squared is 25
> 
> If the number is not a perfect square this is one fairly easy way to 
> estimate the root
> 
> 
> 
>  1. First find the closest squares  that surround your number.
> 
> 2. Divide your number by one of those square roots.
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Calculate the average  of the result of step 2 and the root.
> 
> 
> 
> 4. By using the value calculated in step 3, repeat steps 2 and 3 until you 
> have an accurate number.
> 
> 
> 
> Problem: Calculate the square root of 10.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Locate the two closest surrounding perfect squares.
> 
> Solution:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. 3squared  = 9 and 4squared = 16, the surrounding perfect squares.
> 
> 2. Divide 10 by 3. 10/3 = 3., round off to 3.33.
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Average 3.33 and 3. (3.33 + 3)/2 = 3.165
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat step 2: 10/3.165 = 3.159
> 
> Repeat step 3: Average 3.159 and 3.165. (3.159 + 3.165)/2 = 3.162
> 
> 
> 
> Answer:
> 
>  3.1623 squared equal to 10? 3.162 x 3.162 = 9.998
> 
> 
> 
> If this is not accurate enough for you,  you repeat steps 2 and 3.
> 
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "David Ferrin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 12:33 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] calculating the area of a triangle
> 
> 
> Well I don't claim to understand either of these formulas very much but I
> have combined both of these posts in to a single file. The first method uses
> the vertical sides being equal where the second none of the sides are equal
> at all. I invite you guys to check out my handy work, but I didn't change
> any of the mathematical information.
> 
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/CalculatingTheAreaOfATriangle.html
> 
> David Ferrin
> Never purchase the first version of anything. This message brought to you by
> Windows Vista. Smart Computing March 2007
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Michael Baldwin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 10:35 PM
> Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] calculating the area of a triangle
> 
> 
> David,
> There are two methods for calculating the area of a triangle that I know of.
> First method works best if it is a right triangle, one angle is a 90 degree
> angle.
> Area equals base times the height divided by two.
> A triangle with a base of 3 inches, height of 4 inches would be
> A=(3*4)/2
>  A=12/2
> A=6
> The area would be 6 square inches.
> The second method works better if you do not know the height, or do not feel
> like figuring the height.
> First figure up the perimeter of the triangle. This example we will use a
> triangle with side A 15 inches, side B 10 inches, and side C 7 inches.
> Perimeter equals A plus B plus C
> P=15+10+7
> P=32
> Now for the area
> Area equals the square route of the perimeter divided by 2 times the
> perimeter divided by 2 minus side A times the perimeter divided by 2 minus
> side B times the perimeter divided by 2 minus side c
> A=sqt((32/2)((32/2)-15)((32/2)-10)((32/2)-7))
> A=sqt(16(16-15)(16-10)(16-7))
> A=sqt(16*1*6*9)
> A=sqt(864)
> A=29.39 square inches.
> 
> Michael
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of David Ferrin
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 20:24
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] calculating the area of a triangle
> 
> Would somebody please try posting this information again but in English this
> time? I'd like to put it up on the web, unfortunately never having
> trigonometry none of it made any sense to me enough to code in an HTML file
> at least. Also please use an example to explain the formula.
> David Ferrin
> Never purchase the first version of anything. This message brought to you by
> Windows Vista. Smart Computing March 2007
> 
> 
> 
> To listen to the show archives go to link  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
> 
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
> 
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
> 
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
> 
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list
> just send 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Woodworking for the blind.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

Wet wood will cause a change in conduction and will be picked by the safety 
mechanism and lock the blade. For that reason, before using wet wood, the 
machine sensor has to be turned off.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Max Robinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I have signed up for woodworking for the blind and now have my first issue. 
> I have finished reading the January edition of woodworking magazine and it's 
> very good.  I was especially interested in a report on the saw stop saw. 
> For those who haven't signed on yet the saw stops in about 2 tents of a 
> second after the blade contacts human flesh.  They did a test with a hot dog 
> and there was only a little nick in it that if it were in a finger would 
> only need a bandade.  It costs about 120 dollars for replacement parts every 
> time the saw is stopped in this way, but how much is a finger worth?  I wish 
> they had reported on the wet wood test.  They did it but neglected to tell 
> us of the results.  No criticism of you Larry, you can only read what's in 
> the magazine.
> 
> Regards.
> 
> Max.  K 4 O D S.
> 
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
> 
> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Saw stop.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

The SawStop is a complete unit of a cabinet-type saw and includes everything 
that would be in any other cabinet-type saw plus the safety mechanism. The 
safety mechanism does not come as a retrofit for other saws.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: Dan Rossi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hey Max,
> 
> The article about the saw stop saw, did they mention if it is 
> retrofittable yet?  Last I heard, it was only available on high end saws.
> 
> 
> -- 
> Blue skies.
> Dan Rossi
> Carnegie Mellon University.
> E-Mail:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel:  (412) 268-9081




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Saw stop.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

The SawStop has a high-tech replaceable electronic brake cartridge that is 
positioned right under the blade. The cartridge induces and monitors a 
low-voltage electronic signal in the saw's blade. When the blade is touched, 
the high conductivity of the human body causes a change in the signal which 
triggers the release of a heavy-duty spring that in turn pushes an aluminum 
block into the teeth of the blade. It takes only about one-two hundreths of a 
second for this to happen. The blade momentum is used to retract the blade 
below the table and the power to the motor is shut off. The cartridge mechanism 
is a single-use component that costs about $80 and must be changed once it is 
activated. Replacement is no more complicated than changing the blade. The 
blade must be replaced as well since it is embedded in the aluminum block.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> how does it work?
> 
> On Mon, 30 Apr 2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> > The SawStop is a complete unit of a cabinet-type saw and includes 
> > everything 
> that would be in any other cabinet-type saw plus the safety mechanism. The 
> safety mechanism does not come as a retrofit for other saws.
> >
> > --
> > Larry Martin
> > Woodworking for the Blind
> >--joining the world of blind wood workers
> >
> > -- Original message --
> > From: Dan Rossi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Hey Max,
> >>
> >> The article about the saw stop saw, did they mention if it is
> >> retrofittable yet?  Last I heard, it was only available on high end saws.
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Blue skies.
> >> Dan Rossi
> >> Carnegie Mellon University.
> >> E-Mail:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> Tel:   (412) 268-9081
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Saw stop.

[woodworkingfortheblind]

There's no doubt that following safety practices is extremely important. If 
everyone did exactly that, there wouldn't be accidents. When there is an 
accident, the consequences can be quite severe.

You state rather forcefully that the SawStop is a waste of money and that if a 
finger comes in contact with the blade it will draw blood before it stops. Do 
you have any basis for that assertion? The tests show otherwise.

Techology doesn't solve everything but every now and then technology brings 
major advances. This happens to be one of those times.

--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers

 -- Original message --
From: "Ricque" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Well, looks like we are comparing apples and oranges here!
> In my opinion, sky diving is dangerous by it's very nature, since man can't 
> control many of the variables involved.
> Useing power tools, on the other hand,  is much more under the control of 
> the tool operator.
> I've been useing power tools of all kinds for over 36 years, and have yet to 
> put my hand on a blade in motion.
> This device we are speaking of in my opinion, is a waste of money, and this 
> is why!
> If your body comes into contact with that blade, it will extract blood from 
> you before the device can stop it.
> Would anyone like to test that theory?
> I'll stick with the safety devices that are supplied by the manufacturer of 
> each tool,
> and my safety practices that haven't failed me yet.
> My techniques are time tested, and what about this saw stop?
> I'm not trying to start, or continue any type of arguement here,
> I'm merely trying to point out that
> even in this day of modern technology, there is no substitute for good 
> common sense, and techniques that
> have proven themselves to work .
> And no, I do not remove safety guards of any type, that's just an invitation 
> for trouble.
> Richard Justice
> www.blind-computing.com
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Dan Rossi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 1:46 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Saw stop.
> 
> 
> > On Mon, 30 Apr 2007, Ricque wrote:
> >
> >> Sounds to me like a waste of money to protect an idiot.
> >> The buyer has to be saying to himself,
> >> "I better have this, since I'm stupid and careless"
> >
> > Rick, so you have removed the blade guard from your circ saw, your table
> > saw, and other safety features since you don't really need them as long as
> > you are not an idiot.
> >
> > You can still do everything right and have an accident.  No one is
> > perfect.  And when the lack of perfection comes with the price of losing
> > fingers, some extra safety is well worth it.
> >
> > For years, skydivers used to complain about using automatic activation
> > devices which initiate deployment of your reserve if you go too low while
> > still in free fall.  After a few very experienced skydivers bounced
> > because of accidents that weren't of their own doing.  and they could have
> > been saved with an AAD, many more skydivers are using them now.  And,
> > deaths due to no pull or low pull have significantly decreased.
> >
> > I still submit that it is impossible to be 100% safe 100% of the time.
> >
> > -- 
> > Blue skies.
> > Dan Rossi
> > Carnegie Mellon University.
> > E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Tel: (412) 268-9081
> > 
> 




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