Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-18 Thread Scott Howell
Thanks for the info, this will be helpful once I get to that point.  
The hole is kind of ugly just do to its size so my wife really wanted  
it to be smaller and look more like an access pannel and not an  
escape hatch.


Scott
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-18 Thread Scott Howell
SOmeone was kind enough to share that info. I think some practice and  
patients, I could figure it out and keep from burning my fingers off  
in the process. Its tough to play bass with fried fingers. grin.

Scott
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-17 Thread Dan Rossi
ChiliBob,

You said that you ran a line from the hot water tank back to the manifold. 
So does that mean the manifold has a hot side and a cold side?  It would 
seem somewhat silly to be dumping your hot water back through the incoming 
cold water.

Just curious as this is all very interesting to me as I am thinking about 
doing a major rework of my hot water heating system.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-17 Thread Dan Rossi
Thanks Dale.  My current furnace has the aquastat at about 160 degrees F. 
If I get a new system, not sure of what the water temps will be like, but 
I have tended to run them at lower temps rather than have the issue of 
short cycling the furnace.  although, you can certainly run them too low.



-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-17 Thread Dale Leavens
Dan, PEX is only rated for temperatures up to 180 degrees, just in case that 
matters.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves


 ChiliBob,

 You said that you ran a line from the hot water tank back to the manifold.
 So does that mean the manifold has a hot side and a cold side?  It would
 seem somewhat silly to be dumping your hot water back through the incoming
 cold water.

 Just curious as this is all very interesting to me as I am thinking about
 doing a major rework of my hot water heating system.

 -- 
 Blue skies.
 Dan Rossi
 Carnegie Mellon University.
 E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Tel: (412) 268-9081


 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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 Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
 List Members At The Following address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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 list just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-17 Thread Dale Leavens
Well they do use PEX systems for under the floor radiant heat inside the 
joist bays. That could resolve your radiator problem as well not to mention 
cozy toes at breakfast.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves


 Thanks Dale.  My current furnace has the aquastat at about 160 degrees F.
 If I get a new system, not sure of what the water temps will be like, but
 I have tended to run them at lower temps rather than have the issue of
 short cycling the furnace.  although, you can certainly run them too low.



 -- 
 Blue skies.
 Dan Rossi
 Carnegie Mellon University.
 E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Tel: (412) 268-9081


 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 or
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 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
 List Members At The Following address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

 Visit the new archives page at the following address
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 list just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-17 Thread Scott Howell
Ah, yes manifold, I couldn't think of the proper name. Well I guess  
the question I have for you is how you sweated the valve. Not having  
sight, I wouldn't say I wouldn't try, but I'd sure want to know how  
it could be done so I wouldn't wind up with a leak on my hands. grin


Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


On Apr 16, 2007, at 8:29 PM, Dale Leavens wrote:

 Well, the first thing you will need to do if changing the main shut- 
 off
 valve is to have the water turned off at the street. After that  
 code takes
 over but I had one fail several years ago, actually what happened  
 was the
 Plummer over tightened the waste cap so when I released it to drain  
 water
 from my system it flew off and another could not be installed  
 because it was
 the male thread which was gone which left me with nothing to do but  
 turn off
 the main. I was able to isolate some of the house and feed water  
 through the
 outside taps and hoses to my neighbour's house. Of course it  
 happened on a
 Saturday night because that was when I was doing the work. The town  
 sent a
 fellow around in the morning to locate the cock at the back lane  
 which he
 managed to break but fortunately in the off position. I had then to  
 wait
 until Monday to get a back hoe to excavate to the water main and  
 instal
 another valve out there in the lane. In the meantime the fellow who  
 owns our
 local hardware store opened it Sunday morning and got me a new shut- 
 off
 valve which I sweated in to replace the old. I only wish too that  
 it had
 been a ball valve, I don't know if that is code though.

 Our water here isn't metered yet although there is some talk of it  
 recently.

 What you do after the meter though is probably your business. I  
 believe that
 any fittings underground though must be flare fittings and it is a  
 flare
 fitting here just before the first indoor shut-off. I know because  
 i removed
 it to sweat it off of the damaged valve and back on the new valve. I
 couldn't just cut it off because I didn't have the tools to create  
 a new
 flare and at that point didn't fancy buying them because I wasn't  
 sure the
 municipality would pick up the cost of replacing the one in the  
 ground and
 this money saving plumbing job was suddenly looking at getting very
 expensive.

 That box arrangement you were speaking of is called a manifold.  
 Because of
 the cost and relative ease of running individual PEX to each  
 location and
 with fewer joints and often longer sweeps of curves it is practical  
 to use
 slightly smaller pipe directly to each fixture. One advantage is  
 that it is
 easier to isolate any individual fixture. With smaller hot water  
 tubes there
 is less standing hot water in the pipe so the water runs hot sooner  
 and less
 heat is lost standing in the pipe.

 Another technique is to run branch manifolds where maybe you run a  
 line to a
 bathroom then break it out into multiple branches to service the  
 fixtures
 there, another to the laundry and so on.Of course the standard  
 trunk method
 is also still used.

 I did find a wonderful site with little video clips and text  
 transcriptions
 of the audio of those clips last night which I had intended to  
 bookmark and
 send along but inadvertently lost it while distracted to something  
 else. If
 I find it again I will do better.

 Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Skype DaleLeavens
 Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

 - Original Message -
 From: Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 6:24 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

  Folks, here's another issue I need to deal with.
 
  We have this 2 by 4 foot hole in the wall where one accesses the
  water meter and shutoff valves. Here's the deal, I want to shrink
  the hole a good bit and this would also please my wife. So what I
  want to do is remove the two old gate valves which aren't really
  leaking, but if you turn them off, they tend to drip and well they
  are getting a lot of settament built up on them. I figure they are
  gonna faile and yes they do, I had this happen in my previous home.
  Well the idea is to replace these with ball-valves which are nearly
  fail proof. So, since I don't swet pipes and not sure if I could do
  it or explain to my wife how to do it, I was wondering if first  
 would
  it be code (I live in Maryland) or could it be up to code to use
  compression fittings and secondly would it be a wise idea to  
 begin with.
  My other thought is while I'm thinking about all this, I may look to
  a pipe replacement project at some point, either a little at a time
  or might go all out. I'm considering PEX or some similar material  
 and
  so would need to mate this with coper since I'm working from the  
 main
  line into the house and the meter has a valve on either side and of
  course its all coper.
  Any thought appreciated

Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-17 Thread Scott Howell
Thank you sir for that information. I'll have to start digging into  
this and see what it would take to get this project underway. Well  
I'm sure my wife will have other projects ahead, but being as this  
house is over 20 years old, I often wonder when she'll start  
developing leaks in the coper pipe.


Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-17 Thread Scott Howell
Sorry, its a drywall hole with a pannel covering it. Yes, the meter  
etc. is on an exterior wall and its got some insulation backing it  
up. The meter is now one that is read via radio, but it still has an  
analog meter. Oddly enough, I had to loosen the meter setup and flip  
it over so when I go to close the wall, I can then put a pannel back  
over the hole. The town hired a contractor to install the meters and  
he didn't pay attention to how much would hang out and prevent me  
from putting a cover on it. I made them come out and correct the  
problem, but they couldn't So, the town sent the engineer and he  
wouldn't do much since he really couldn't cut pipe straps etc. So,  
after he told me off the record I could do this and adjust things and  
restrap, I did and problem solved.
So, the end result is to reduce the hole so you can easily reach the  
valves, but not have this big hole, just a small access pannel deal.


Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-17 Thread Dale Leavens
Do you know anything about working with drywall and plaster?

Basically the best way to shrink that hole is to remove any framework around 
the edge of the hole, I think I would then create the framework I want for 
the new access hole first to be sure it is of the correct size then just add 
in wall framing to support that frame. For your purposes probably two 
lengths of 2 by 4, one up each side of the new panel frame joined by lengths 
across top and bottom of the panel frame. If there is more than 16 inches 
space between this structure and the existing wall
framing you might want another vertical. You might then scab a length of 
strapping to bring out the edge of the existing framing member to give you 
something to attach the drywall patch to at the edges and depending on what 
is at the bottom edge of the existing drywall, slide a length of strapping 
half way behind it and fix with screws through the drywall. Now you have 
something to fix a patch to all around the outer edge.

Cut and fit a patch of drywall to fill the hole, you might want to cut out 
the new panel opening but you could do that with a drywall saw after the 
patch is installed or even with one of those new spin saw router sort of 
tools.

Screw the patch into place and get busy with tape and mud and mud and mud 
and sanding and dust and paint and trim out the hole and you are done.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves


 Sorry, its a drywall hole with a pannel covering it. Yes, the meter
 etc. is on an exterior wall and its got some insulation backing it
 up. The meter is now one that is read via radio, but it still has an
 analog meter. Oddly enough, I had to loosen the meter setup and flip
 it over so when I go to close the wall, I can then put a pannel back
 over the hole. The town hired a contractor to install the meters and
 he didn't pay attention to how much would hang out and prevent me
 from putting a cover on it. I made them come out and correct the
 problem, but they couldn't So, the town sent the engineer and he
 wouldn't do much since he really couldn't cut pipe straps etc. So,
 after he told me off the record I could do this and adjust things and
 restrap, I did and problem solved.
 So, the end result is to reduce the hole so you can easily reach the
 valves, but not have this big hole, just a small access pannel deal.


 Scott
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]



 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

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 List Members At The Following address:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-17 Thread Dale Leavens
Hi Scott,

I think there is an article up on the site I wrote on how I sweat copper 
pipe. It takes some patience and isn't without some risk of burns but if you 
have reasonable ears to hear the flame and a light touch with the solder it 
can be done.

If there isn't such an article I can probably write another one but it takes 
some time and I doubt I will be able to do so in the next couple of weeks.

I do remember writing a rather lengthy description for this list many years 
ago and a couple of others for a lady who was the teaching assistant for a 
young lad in an school a couple of years ago, perhaps someone can let us 
know if there is such an article up there.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves


 Ah, yes manifold, I couldn't think of the proper name. Well I guess
 the question I have for you is how you sweated the valve. Not having
 sight, I wouldn't say I wouldn't try, but I'd sure want to know how
 it could be done so I wouldn't wind up with a leak on my hands. grin


 Scott
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 On Apr 16, 2007, at 8:29 PM, Dale Leavens wrote:

 Well, the first thing you will need to do if changing the main shut-
 off
 valve is to have the water turned off at the street. After that
 code takes
 over but I had one fail several years ago, actually what happened
 was the
 Plummer over tightened the waste cap so when I released it to drain
 water
 from my system it flew off and another could not be installed
 because it was
 the male thread which was gone which left me with nothing to do but
 turn off
 the main. I was able to isolate some of the house and feed water
 through the
 outside taps and hoses to my neighbour's house. Of course it
 happened on a
 Saturday night because that was when I was doing the work. The town
 sent a
 fellow around in the morning to locate the cock at the back lane
 which he
 managed to break but fortunately in the off position. I had then to
 wait
 until Monday to get a back hoe to excavate to the water main and
 instal
 another valve out there in the lane. In the meantime the fellow who
 owns our
 local hardware store opened it Sunday morning and got me a new shut-
 off
 valve which I sweated in to replace the old. I only wish too that
 it had
 been a ball valve, I don't know if that is code though.

 Our water here isn't metered yet although there is some talk of it
 recently.

 What you do after the meter though is probably your business. I
 believe that
 any fittings underground though must be flare fittings and it is a
 flare
 fitting here just before the first indoor shut-off. I know because
 i removed
 it to sweat it off of the damaged valve and back on the new valve. I
 couldn't just cut it off because I didn't have the tools to create
 a new
 flare and at that point didn't fancy buying them because I wasn't
 sure the
 municipality would pick up the cost of replacing the one in the
 ground and
 this money saving plumbing job was suddenly looking at getting very
 expensive.

 That box arrangement you were speaking of is called a manifold.
 Because of
 the cost and relative ease of running individual PEX to each
 location and
 with fewer joints and often longer sweeps of curves it is practical
 to use
 slightly smaller pipe directly to each fixture. One advantage is
 that it is
 easier to isolate any individual fixture. With smaller hot water
 tubes there
 is less standing hot water in the pipe so the water runs hot sooner
 and less
 heat is lost standing in the pipe.

 Another technique is to run branch manifolds where maybe you run a
 line to a
 bathroom then break it out into multiple branches to service the
 fixtures
 there, another to the laundry and so on.Of course the standard
 trunk method
 is also still used.

 I did find a wonderful site with little video clips and text
 transcriptions
 of the audio of those clips last night which I had intended to
 bookmark and
 send along but inadvertently lost it while distracted to something
 else. If
 I find it again I will do better.

 Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Skype DaleLeavens
 Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

 - Original Message -
 From: Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 6:24 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

  Folks, here's another issue I need to deal with.
 
  We have this 2 by 4 foot hole in the wall where one accesses the
  water meter and shutoff valves. Here's the deal, I want to shrink
  the hole a good bit and this would also please my wife. So what I
  want to do is remove the two old gate valves which aren't really
  leaking

Re: [SPAM] Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-17 Thread chiliblindman
Hi Dan.  Yes, there is a hot and cold division for the manifold.  There are 
times when mixers are needed to limit temp for the disabled and elderly.  A 
mixer can be put right on the block bascially.   I am finding it quite blind 
friendly.  I wiggle the pipe gently to locate center for the fitting and turn 
the compression ring down.
 I got my water softener hooked up and running today.  Tomorrow I'll be 
running pex for the hot water till I get tired of work and save the remainder 
for Thursday. .bob

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-16 Thread Scott Howell
Folks, here's another issue I need to deal with.

We have this 2 by 4 foot hole in the wall where one accesses the  
water meter and  shutoff valves. Here's the deal, I want to shrink  
the hole a good bit and this would also please my wife. So what I  
want to do is remove the two old gate valves which aren't really  
leaking, but if you turn them off, they tend to drip and well they  
are getting a lot of settament built up on them. I figure they are  
gonna faile and yes they do, I had this happen in my previous home.  
Well the idea is to replace these with ball-valves which are nearly  
fail proof. So, since I don't swet pipes and not sure if I could do  
it or explain to my wife how to do it, I was wondering if first would  
it be code (I live in Maryland) or could it be up to code to use  
compression fittings and secondly would it be a wise idea to begin with.
My other thought is while I'm thinking about all this, I may look to  
a pipe replacement project at some point, either a little at a time  
or might go all out. I'm considering PEX or some similar material and  
so would need to mate this with coper since I'm working from the main  
line into the house  and the meter has a valve on either side and of  
course its all coper.
Any thought appreciated.

tnx

Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]





To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-16 Thread Dale Leavens
Well, the first thing you will need to do if changing the main shut-off 
valve is to have the water turned off at the street. After that code takes 
over but I had one fail several years ago, actually what happened was the 
Plummer over tightened the waste cap so when I released it to drain water 
from my system it flew off and another could not be installed because it was 
the male thread which was gone which left me with nothing to do but turn off 
the main. I was able to isolate some of the house and feed water through the 
outside taps and hoses to my neighbour's house. Of course it happened on a 
Saturday night because that was when I was doing the work. The town sent a 
fellow around in the morning to locate the cock at the back lane which he 
managed to break but fortunately in the off position. I had then to wait 
until Monday to get a back hoe to excavate to the water main and instal 
another valve out there in the lane. In the meantime the fellow who owns our 
local hardware store opened it Sunday morning and got me a new shut-off 
valve which I sweated in to replace the old. I only wish too that it had 
been a ball valve, I don't know if that is code though.

Our water here isn't metered yet although there is some talk of it recently.

What you do after the meter though is probably your business. I believe that 
any fittings underground though must be flare fittings and it is a flare 
fitting here just before the first indoor shut-off. I know because i removed 
it to sweat it off of the damaged valve and back on the new valve. I 
couldn't just cut it off because I didn't have the tools to create a new 
flare and at that point didn't fancy buying them because I wasn't sure the 
municipality would pick up the cost of replacing the one in the ground and 
this money saving plumbing job was suddenly looking at getting very 
expensive.

That box arrangement you were speaking of is called a manifold. Because of 
the cost and relative ease of running individual PEX to each location and 
with fewer joints and often longer sweeps of curves it is practical to use 
slightly smaller pipe directly to each fixture. One advantage is that it is 
easier to isolate any individual fixture. With smaller hot water tubes there 
is less standing hot water in the pipe so the water runs hot sooner and less 
heat is lost standing in the pipe.

Another technique is to run branch manifolds where maybe you run a line to a 
bathroom then break it out into multiple branches to service the fixtures 
there, another to the laundry and so on.Of course the standard trunk method 
is also still used.

I did find a wonderful site with little video clips and text transcriptions 
of the audio of those clips last night which I had intended to bookmark and 
send along but inadvertently lost it while distracted to something else. If 
I find it again I will do better.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 6:24 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves


 Folks, here's another issue I need to deal with.

 We have this 2 by 4 foot hole in the wall where one accesses the
 water meter and  shutoff valves. Here's the deal, I want to shrink
 the hole a good bit and this would also please my wife. So what I
 want to do is remove the two old gate valves which aren't really
 leaking, but if you turn them off, they tend to drip and well they
 are getting a lot of settament built up on them. I figure they are
 gonna faile and yes they do, I had this happen in my previous home.
 Well the idea is to replace these with ball-valves which are nearly
 fail proof. So, since I don't swet pipes and not sure if I could do
 it or explain to my wife how to do it, I was wondering if first would
 it be code (I live in Maryland) or could it be up to code to use
 compression fittings and secondly would it be a wise idea to begin with.
 My other thought is while I'm thinking about all this, I may look to
 a pipe replacement project at some point, either a little at a time
 or might go all out. I'm considering PEX or some similar material and
 so would need to mate this with coper since I'm working from the main
 line into the house  and the meter has a valve on either side and of
 course its all coper.
 Any thought appreciated.

 tnx

 Scott
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]





 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
 List Members At The Following

Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing water supply valves

2007-04-16 Thread chiliblindman
Hello Scott.  I'll try to answer some of your questions.  The new water meters 
come with compression fittings.  Like in your parents house, they have a 
manifold to distribute the water.  Copper can be connected right to it using 
the double seal compression fitting.  
 I got my line in from my main to the water softener with a ball valve, but 
not connected today.  I got the line from the softener (with ball valve)back to 
the main and connected to the manifold using a pliers and wrench, one each.  I 
got the bypass valve in so water is available with the softener still not 
connected.  I ran my cold line from the manifold to my hot water heater and 
installed an expansion tank between the two.  That is now operating.
 Tomorrow I'll run the hot back to the manifold and start running the pex.  
A bag of fittings came with the manifold to make the connections.  I ran one 
pex today from a tee before the line to the softener.  My handy sink in the 
basement and outdoor spigots will all use untreated water.  
 Around here pex meets all standards that copper does.  The only tools 
needed to run pex are the crimp tool.  I would suggest a plastic pipe cutter, 
the cuts are always nice unlike when using a knife.  I have no worries about 
cutting myself using the pipe cutter.  
 The pipe here comes in three colors, red for hot, blue for cold and white 
for whatever.  The pipe is all the same except for the color.  I am using them 
so anyone will be able to tell the hot from the cold.  Maybe I'll use white for 
my unconditioned water points.  All the fittings I used so far are quite easy 
to understand.  The copper lines do need to be cleaned and I remove the inside 
burr from the indentation from the cutting wheel.  Fittings will last twice as 
long or longer if the edge is removed inside the copper pipe where the cutting 
wheel presses in on the pipe during the cutting process.  I use a pocket knife 
to remove them, the smaller blades will just slide around the pipe and remove 
the edge very easily with a little practice.  One tends to try and force it and 
that isn't needed.
 I had checked on the pressure ratings for these fittings, 120 psi is what 
they take.  My water pressure here is 80 almost so I am running at less than 66 
per cent of the limit.  Time to call it a day.bob

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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