Re: New batch of pdp8 OMNIBUS to USB interface! Please Read and react!
I have an interest in this too can I use ot to load focal to our pdp-8? links? details? Thanks Ed# In a message dated 7/5/2017 9:51:48 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, cctalk@classiccmp.org writes: Hello Phillip, This is hastily prepared but I am interested in purchasing a OMNI to USB interface. Is the list still open? Barry McMahon Sent from my iPad
Re: Steve Garcia / Micromint SB180
On 07/05/2017 04:14 PM, jim stephens via cctalk wrote: > > > On 7/5/2017 12:32 PM, GerardCJAT via cctalk wrote: >> PLEASE, under what directory you put the pdf of the manual ?? > http://bitsavers.informatik.uni-stuttgart.de/pdf/micromint/ Thats only for the SB180FX... there are two versions the SB180 and the later FX. Never mind also the BCC180. All z180 powered but not the same. The first SB180 was limited to 256K of ram, the FX used the Z180 in the higher lead count J-lead package and could address 1MB. The BCC180 was for control aps and carried 156Kof Dram and up to 128K of 32K eprom or ram but had no disk IO but tons of 8255 (times 2) IO. I have the BCC180 and the SB180 (first version). Allison
HP 12653A line printer interface
Does anyone have an HP 12653A line printer interface? It is used to connect an HP 21xx/1000 CPU to an HP 2767A line printer. I am unable to find a manual for this card, but the HP "General Purpose Register Diagnostic" manual suggests that it is a modified HP 12566B Microcircuit interface. I'm trying to determine what modifications were made, so that I can model it accurately in the SIMH/HP2100 simulator. If anyone has this card and wouldn't mind sending me high-resolution photos of the front and back, I'd be most grateful. -- Dave
Re: New batch of pdp8 OMNIBUS to USB interface! Please Read and react!
Hello Phillip, This is hastily prepared but I am interested in purchasing a OMNI to USB interface. Is the list still open? Barry McMahon Sent from my iPad
Re: Windows 10 recent creator release may take your printer out. I am really ...
The switch to home USB printer/scanner combinations also killed off the generic standalone scanners (especially the parallel port ones and the almost dead SCSI variety). -Original Message- From: Ed via cctalk Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2017 9:31 PM To: tin...@gmail.com ; cctalk@classiccmp.org Subject: Re: Windows 10 recent creator release may take your printer out. I am really ... Hi Torfinn! The real horrible thing was all the scanners that were orphaned in the win 98 se to XP change over...lotsa parallel port scannersat the good will after that upgrade! Ed# _www.smecc.org_ (http://www.smecc.org) --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Re: Windows 10 recent creator release may take your printer out. I am really ...
Hi Torfinn! Well driver worked ok this time... just had to TOTALLY remove the old one thenreinstall thedriver again and bingo. the scanner had no problem either before or after driver switch after the upgrade... The real horrible thing was all the scanners that were orphaned in the win 98 se to XP change over...lotsa parallel port scannersat the good will after that upgrade! Ed# _www.smecc.org_ (http://www.smecc.org) In a message dated 7/4/2017 1:41:56 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, cctalk@classiccmp.org writes: On Mon, Jul 3, 2017 at 7:47 PM, Ed via cctalk wrote: > > Windows 10 recent creator release may take your printer out. FWIW, this is nothing new with Windows: when the switch from Windows 2000 to XP happened, a lot of HP printer owners (I don't know if it was limited to HP, sorry) was stuck with printers without a working driver. Yes, I know this doesn't help. -- Regards, Torfinn Ingolfsen
Re: ChipQuik Troubles
> On Jul 5, 2017, at 6:17 PM, Chuck Guzis via cctalk > wrote: > > On 07/05/2017 01:42 PM, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote: >> I bought some ChipQuik recently and managed to successfully remove a 74LS125 >> with little trouble. Today I have come to trying to desolder another similar >> sized chip, but try as I might I just cannot get it to work. The ChipQuik >> just balls up and won't "take" to the pins. I applied plenty of the flux >> supplied with the ChipQuik, but I wonder if I applied too much? > > Will the pins take "regular" solder? I wonder if there might not be > some coating on them... Real solder works just fine. I've assembled boards that were made to lead-free standards, using lead-free parts -- since that's all you can get now. On the advice of a board rework technician I used real solder. Her comment amounted to that real solder always works better, and that lead-free solder is something you put up with if you have to. paul
Re: Steve Garcia / Micromint SB180
argh.. forgot there was already a micromint dir, so I moved it there On 7/5/17 5:13 PM, Al Kossow via cctalk wrote: > it will be under microMint early tomorrow > > On 7/5/17 12:32 PM, GerardCJAT via cctalk wrote: > >> PLEASE, under what directory you put the pdf of the manual ?? >> >
db9 requirements
Good Evening all, hope your week is going well. I received a sparcstation 10 today and wondered if anyone knew which db25 cable to get to connect to my DEC vt, null modem, cross over, etc, etc. Also if anyone has experience with this machine I would be happy to take OS recommendations. -H
Re: Steve Garcia / Micromint SB180
it will be under microMint early tomorrow On 7/5/17 12:32 PM, GerardCJAT via cctalk wrote: > PLEASE, under what directory you put the pdf of the manual ?? >
RE: ChipQuik Troubles
> -Original Message- > From: Jon Elson [mailto:el...@pico-systems.com] > Sent: 05 July 2017 23:25 > To: r...@jarratt.me.uk; Rob Jarratt ; General > Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts > Subject: Re: ChipQuik Troubles > > On 07/05/2017 03:42 PM, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote: > > I bought some ChipQuik recently and managed to successfully remove a > > 74LS125 with little trouble. Today I have come to trying to desolder > > another similar sized chip, but try as I might I just cannot get it to > > work. The ChipQuik just balls up and won't "take" to the pins. I > > applied plenty of the flux supplied with the ChipQuik, but I wonder if I applied > too much? > > > > > > > > > The solders may be incompatible. What are you trying to do, replace a > defective chip to make an old board work? > I *think* it may be defective, I have a replacement for it anyway. > You DON'T need ChipQuik. If the board was soldered with lead-free solder, > diluting the solder with PbSn solder makes it easier. If it is already done with > leaded solder, then you just need a little technique. For surface mount parts, > use an Xacto knife under the pins, and lift them one at a time while touching > with the iron. Generally, I remove as much solder as I can with solder wick first, > then lift the pins. When one row of pins are lifted, the chip can be flexed a few > times and the other row of pins break off. The remaining pins can be swept off > with the soldering iron. > Then, the solder can be removed with solder wick and the new chip installed. > If all else fails I may go with this. I don't mind if the chip is damaged during removal as I have replacements. Thanks Rob > For through hole chips, the safest way is to snip the pins off at the chip body > with tiny diagonal cutters, remove the body and then pick each lead out with > tweezers while heating the pad with the soldering iron. Also, with good > desoldering tools, you can remove the chip without destroying it. The best > desolderers have a vacuum pump (or air venturi pump) and a hollow > desoldering tip. You apply the tip to the lead for about 5 seconds, then apply > the vacuum while "swirling" the tip around the component lead. > This works amazingly well, and the parts generally fall off the board when all > leads are done, even on multi-layer boards. The solder suckers that are used > with a standard iron are FAR inferior to the units described above. > > Jon
RE: ChipQuik Troubles
> -Original Message- > From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-boun...@classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Chuck Guzis > via cctalk > Sent: 05 July 2017 23:18 > To: cctalk@classiccmp.org > Subject: Re: ChipQuik Troubles > > On 07/05/2017 01:42 PM, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote: > > I bought some ChipQuik recently and managed to successfully remove a > > 74LS125 with little trouble. Today I have come to trying to desolder > > another similar sized chip, but try as I might I just cannot get it to > > work. The ChipQuik just balls up and won't "take" to the pins. I > > applied plenty of the flux supplied with the ChipQuik, but I wonder if I > > applied > too much? > > Will the pins take "regular" solder? I wonder if there might not be some > coating on them... > > Can't say that I ever had the problem. > I did try to refresh the solder on one pin as I suspected a poor contact, but that would not work either. The chip is on the same board that I had success with before, but in a different location and where there has been battery leakage. I will try a PCB cleaner first to see if there is any residue. Regards Rob
Re: ChipQuik Troubles
On 07/05/2017 03:42 PM, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote: I bought some ChipQuik recently and managed to successfully remove a 74LS125 with little trouble. Today I have come to trying to desolder another similar sized chip, but try as I might I just cannot get it to work. The ChipQuik just balls up and won't "take" to the pins. I applied plenty of the flux supplied with the ChipQuik, but I wonder if I applied too much? The solders may be incompatible. What are you trying to do, replace a defective chip to make an old board work? You DON'T need ChipQuik. If the board was soldered with lead-free solder, diluting the solder with PbSn solder makes it easier. If it is already done with leaded solder, then you just need a little technique. For surface mount parts, use an Xacto knife under the pins, and lift them one at a time while touching with the iron. Generally, I remove as much solder as I can with solder wick first, then lift the pins. When one row of pins are lifted, the chip can be flexed a few times and the other row of pins break off. The remaining pins can be swept off with the soldering iron. Then, the solder can be removed with solder wick and the new chip installed. For through hole chips, the safest way is to snip the pins off at the chip body with tiny diagonal cutters, remove the body and then pick each lead out with tweezers while heating the pad with the soldering iron. Also, with good desoldering tools, you can remove the chip without destroying it. The best desolderers have a vacuum pump (or air venturi pump) and a hollow desoldering tip. You apply the tip to the lead for about 5 seconds, then apply the vacuum while "swirling" the tip around the component lead. This works amazingly well, and the parts generally fall off the board when all leads are done, even on multi-layer boards. The solder suckers that are used with a standard iron are FAR inferior to the units described above. Jon
Re: ChipQuik Troubles
On 07/05/2017 01:42 PM, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote: > I bought some ChipQuik recently and managed to successfully remove a 74LS125 > with little trouble. Today I have come to trying to desolder another similar > sized chip, but try as I might I just cannot get it to work. The ChipQuik > just balls up and won't "take" to the pins. I applied plenty of the flux > supplied with the ChipQuik, but I wonder if I applied too much? Will the pins take "regular" solder? I wonder if there might not be some coating on them... Can't say that I ever had the problem. --Chuck
Re: ChipQuik Troubles
> On 6 Jul 2017, at 6:42 am, Rob Jarratt via cctalk > wrote: > > I bought some ChipQuik recently and managed to successfully remove a 74LS125 > with little trouble. Today I have come to trying to desolder another similar > sized chip, but try as I might I just cannot get it to work. The ChipQuik > just balls up and won't "take" to the pins. I applied plenty of the flux > supplied with the ChipQuik, but I wonder if I applied too much? Hi Rob, is there a chance that the second chip is on a lead free board? Sometimes it helps to flow a bit of normal lead/tin solder on the pins first. Chris..
ChipQuik Troubles
I bought some ChipQuik recently and managed to successfully remove a 74LS125 with little trouble. Today I have come to trying to desolder another similar sized chip, but try as I might I just cannot get it to work. The ChipQuik just balls up and won't "take" to the pins. I applied plenty of the flux supplied with the ChipQuik, but I wonder if I applied too much? Has anyone else ever had a similar problem? Thanks Rob
Re: Steve Garcia / Micromint SB180
On 7/5/2017 12:32 PM, GerardCJAT via cctalk wrote: PLEASE, under what directory you put the pdf of the manual ?? http://bitsavers.informatik.uni-stuttgart.de/pdf/micromint/
Steve Garcia / Micromint SB180
To Al. Kossow : >> Has the firmware and OS been archived somewhere? >> I just scanned and pdf-ed the manual, waiting now for some disk space to >> free up on the bitsavers server. I know I have a copy of the EPROM Not sure I have a reader for it, ( I will check ) but else, I can send you the physical Eprom copy ( Free, of course ). OS ??? Well, I have to check . will let you know. PLEASE, under what directory you put the pdf of the manual ??
Steve Garcia / Micromint SB180
Sorry for this late UPDATE ! Replies were numerous, S180 has been claimed. Thanks guys. Original Message - From: GerardCJAT To: cct...@classiccmp.org Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2017 6:33 PM Subject: Steve Garcia / Micromint SB180 Remember it ? I have an almost brand new one, powered only half dozen times. ( was running CPM ... Good old days ;-) ) It is free to a good home, but I expect you to pay packaging and shipping from FRANCE I do not know if you can contact me off line. :-( Please, try and let me know !!
Re: M9301-YB ROM flaky
perfect, thanks I can use this. Bill On Wed, Jul 5, 2017 at 3:17 PM, Noel Chiappa via cctalk < cctalk@classiccmp.org> wrote: > > From: William Degnan > > > what is the memory range > > That's in the disassembly page: > > http://ana-3.lcs.mit.edu/~jnc/tech/pdp11/ROMs/M9301-YB.mac > > 765000-765776 and 773000-773776 > > > > can you post the ROM dump so I can compare on my end? > > Well, the contents are in that page too, but here's the output of my ROM > dumper (URL posted further back in the thread): > > http://ana-3.lcs.mit.edu/~jnc/tech/pdp11/ROMs/M9301-YB.txt > > if you just want to do a 'diff' (download the ROM dumper .LDA, run it, and > compare its output). > > > > call up same in PDPGUI and compare there > > I don't know what format PDPGUI uses; I don't use it (don't remember why). > > I wrote a bespoke PDP-11 console program that runs under Unix V6 (the same > as > we had BITD; when I wrote this code, I didn't have access to all the MIT > sources, so I had to re-write it); that way I can either use it on my > Windoze > box - under Ersatz-11 - or on real PDP-11 hardware, going from one machine > to > another. > > Noel >
Re: M9301-YB ROM flaky
> From: William Degnan > what is the memory range That's in the disassembly page: http://ana-3.lcs.mit.edu/~jnc/tech/pdp11/ROMs/M9301-YB.mac 765000-765776 and 773000-773776 > can you post the ROM dump so I can compare on my end? Well, the contents are in that page too, but here's the output of my ROM dumper (URL posted further back in the thread): http://ana-3.lcs.mit.edu/~jnc/tech/pdp11/ROMs/M9301-YB.txt if you just want to do a 'diff' (download the ROM dumper .LDA, run it, and compare its output). > call up same in PDPGUI and compare there I don't know what format PDPGUI uses; I don't use it (don't remember why). I wrote a bespoke PDP-11 console program that runs under Unix V6 (the same as we had BITD; when I wrote this code, I didn't have access to all the MIT sources, so I had to re-write it); that way I can either use it on my Windoze box - under Ersatz-11 - or on real PDP-11 hardware, going from one machine to another. Noel
Re: M9301-YB ROM flaky
what is the memory range / can you post the ROM dump so I can compare on my end? Just the memory contents will be fine, if this is convenient. I will call up same in PDPGUI and compare there. Bill On Wed, Jul 5, 2017 at 11:24 AM, Noel Chiappa via cctalk < cctalk@classiccmp.org> wrote: > > From: Fritz Mueller > > > Even better news: I was subsequently able to dump the contents of my > > M9301-YB, and found they do indeed exactly match the contents ... > > posted in [the] M9301-YB disassembly. > > Excellent news! > > When I get as chance, I'l do more work on the disassembly (and note that > the > ROM contents have been verified between two different units). > > Noel >
Re: Dobbertin 4003 Eprommer driver, moldy floppy rescue in .de?
On 7/4/17 10:55 PM, Arno Kletzander via cctalk wrote: > A quick look on the media surface however revealed a multitude of tarnished > spots that look to me like fungus growth. Having read about dirt and fungus > on media, moisture causing sticky shed syndrome, cleaning and baking > procedures and the like here, but not yet having gone through it myself (and > thus afraid to botch it if I tried it), I asked him not to read the floppy on > his own right now but let me ask for help. Actually, dirt and fungus cause media dropouts. Sometimes you can (carefully) clean it off by washing and drying the cookie and putting the disk in a new jacket. When cleaning, you should carefully inspect the areas of the disk, preferably under magnification, to try to just take off the surface contaminants and not the oxide and binder.
Re: M9301-YB ROM flaky
> From: Fritz Mueller > Even better news: I was subsequently able to dump the contents of my > M9301-YB, and found they do indeed exactly match the contents ... > posted in [the] M9301-YB disassembly. Excellent news! When I get as chance, I'l do more work on the disassembly (and note that the ROM contents have been verified between two different units). Noel
Re: Dobbertin 4003 Eprommer driver, moldy floppy rescue in .de?
> Tried contacting Dobbertin directly (...) ? Sorry, forgot to mention that. Owner of the device contacted them nearly two months ago, no reply. I asked him to try again in case his mail got lost in some spam filter. Arno
Re: Dobbertin 4003 Eprommer driver, moldy floppy rescue in .de?
Specially, http://www.cpcwiki.eu/index.php/Universeller_EPROM_Programmer_4004 Contains both manual and software, and according to different sources the 4003 and 4004 should be very similar.
Re: Dobbertin 4003 Eprommer driver, moldy floppy rescue in .de?
Except of course be if someone already had the driver software available :-) One probably also needs the manual as I've read there is a memory address selection feature on the interface and you need to supply the correct address to the driver upon installation. Tried contacting Dobbertin directly and seeing if they might still have those bits? A quickly oogle shows that they are still in business, and some random links to various models of the thing.
Dobbertin 4003 Eprommer driver, moldy floppy rescue in .de?
Hi fellow classiccmp'ers, seeking help for the head of our local HAM club chapter, who bought an EPROM programmer (Dobbertin 4003) complete with the associated PC interface card, at an estate sale. After some rummaging through moldy cardboard boxes of media in a damp basement, we were even able to come up with a 5 1/4" floppy labeled as holding the associated (presumably DOS based) driver/software. A quick look on the media surface however revealed a multitude of tarnished spots that look to me like fungus growth. Having read about dirt and fungus on media, moisture causing sticky shed syndrome, cleaning and baking procedures and the like here, but not yet having gone through it myself (and thus afraid to botch it if I tried it), I asked him not to read the floppy on his own right now but let me ask for help. Best bet would probably be if an experienced media rescuer, ideally within Germany for ease of shipping, could be cajoled or bribed (with a reasonable amount of course) into having a look at that floppy and trying to read the contents. Except of course be if someone already had the driver software available :-) One probably also needs the manual as I've read there is a memory address selection feature on the interface and you need to supply the correct address to the driver upon installation. Yours sincerely, TIA & vy 73 Arno // DO4NAK
Re: M9301-YB ROM flaky
On Jul 5, 2017 1:49 AM, "Fritz Mueller via cctalk" wrote: > > Well, the situation had worsened on my M9301 to the point where every single word was affected, and then it was easy to see that it was always in the least-significant four bits. So I pulled and reseated that PROM, then went ahead and did the other three as well for good measure (really should have just tried this first!), and things got totally back to normal. > > Even better news: I was subsequently able to dump the contents of my M9301-YB, and found they do indeed exactly match the contents that Noel has posted in his M9301-YB disassembly. So I think Noel’s dump can be considered verified/authoritative. > > cheers, > —FritzM. > Good news. Bill Degnan twitter: billdeg vintagecomputer.net
RE: tape baking
> -Original Message- > From: Christian Corti [mailto:c...@informatik.uni-stuttgart.de] > Sent: 05 July 2017 08:48 > To: r...@jarratt.me.uk; Rob Jarratt ; General > Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts > Subject: RE: tape baking > > On Mon, 3 Jul 2017, Rob Jarratt wrote: > > All I could do was prop open the tape door with a paper clip. 45C in > > my fan oven worked for me. 55C in my oven seemed to mostly demagnetise > > the tape. Other ovens may be different, so it is best to experiment > > with something that doesn't matter. > > You can not demagnetize tapes at 55°C, that must be another effect, like > crosstalk (which is an issue, especially with audio tapes) or something like > that. > Perhaps I will try to read the tape again then. Regards Rob
RE: tape baking
On Mon, 3 Jul 2017, Rob Jarratt wrote: All I could do was prop open the tape door with a paper clip. 45C in my fan oven worked for me. 55C in my oven seemed to mostly demagnetise the tape. Other ovens may be different, so it is best to experiment with something that doesn't matter. You can not demagnetize tapes at 55°C, that must be another effect, like crosstalk (which is an issue, especially with audio tapes) or something like that. Christian