Re: [Chevelle-List] Seat Belts
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List i forgot to say i need black ones. i don't know if they can be dyed or not. i never tried it before. Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Seat Belts
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I believe I have a pair but it will be a week before I can go home to check and if I do they will have green fabric attached. Michael Ishee -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 8:14 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Seat Belts Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Anyone have a pair of the female end seat belt buckles? I need a pair for the shoulder harness in my 70. Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] '69 Malibu Grill colors?
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Has anyone painted their grill to be appropriate for a Malibu? I know they are silver/chrome on the front, but am not sure exactly how or what color. Any suggested techniques? I'd prefer it last a number of years. What would be the appropriate color(s)? Were they chrome or silver? Thanks! -- Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com and my For Sale page at http://www.ProStreetCar.com/classifieds.html Team Chevelle membership #178 (Gold) Time Flies: "It's funny how you can watch a clock and time seems to stand still. But turn away, and you have to measure time with a calendar rather than a clock." mjp - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] '69 Malibu Grill colors?
I believe they are supposed to be argent (silver). I did mine with a felt tip but I think you can do it with a Q tip. Mine turned out pretty good except that it's a 300 grille on a malibu. Take your time and not too much beer. Bob
[Chevelle-List] Seat Belts
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Anyone have a pair of the female end seat belt buckles? I need a pair for the shoulder harness in my 70. Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] 1970 Chevelle suspension
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Just FYI to anyone considering GW... I couldn't achieve the alignment #'s they suggest either. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: "rick schaefer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 6:25 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 1970 Chevelle suspension > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > > mike >I have been driving on the GW uppers & tall spindles for about 8 > weeks. The car handles much better than before and the del-alum > bushings are smoother & quieter than the poly I had before. The tall > spindle conversion will drop the front end an additional 1" . Its not > mentioned much, but the front wheel track will also be about 3/8 inch > wider. Your tires will be a bit closer to the fender. Which, depending > on your current wheel/tire may cause problems. I have 235/60x15 & have > plenty of clearance. > > This past weekend I was at the Goodguys event in ft worth. Parked next > to a 69 malibu which had the 2" dropped spindles. My elky was at least > as low in the front as his. My springs were stock replacements about 6 > years ago. I don't know what he had. > > One problem which surfaced after the GW conversion. My frame has > sagged, I never noticed with stock suspension alignment. The shop could > not get the numbers for camber that GW recommends. I need to have the > frame spread to achieve their numbers (neg 1 degree as I recall). I > don't know when I'll have this done. It rides/drives fine and money > is tight right now. > > Finally I saved about $100, by buying thru Nationall Parts Depot. They > are not my favorite supplier but, they were the only place I found that > discounted the GW stuff. The workmanship of the GW arms is outstanding > (FWIW). > > rick (Abilene Texas) > 72 El Camino TPI 350/700r4 > ACES #00140 TEAM CHEVELLE #00038 > http://members.home.net/jimmy4/rick1972elky.html > http://chevelles.com/showroom/ricks%20motor%20-L > On Thu, 01 Nov 2001 15:10:27 -0600 "Michael Ishee" > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > > > >Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > > > > >I am doing a frame off restoration on my '70 chevelle and i am about > >to > >begin redoing the suspension. I was dead set on using Hotchkis's > >complete > >setup however i got to reading the info on Global West's site and they > >seem > >to know what they are talking about. So does anyone have any > >experience > >with either one of these comapanies or any recommendations. Also i > >would > >like to lower the car more than the 1" drop the new performance coils > >offer > >does anyone have any ideas on how i could go about doing this. > >Thanks > >Michael Ishee > > > > > > > > > >_ > >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at > >http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > > > > > >- > >To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > >To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] 1970 Chevelle suspension
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List mike I have been driving on the GW uppers & tall spindles for about 8 weeks. The car handles much better than before and the del-alum bushings are smoother & quieter than the poly I had before. The tall spindle conversion will drop the front end an additional 1" . Its not mentioned much, but the front wheel track will also be about 3/8 inch wider. Your tires will be a bit closer to the fender. Which, depending on your current wheel/tire may cause problems. I have 235/60x15 & have plenty of clearance. This past weekend I was at the Goodguys event in ft worth. Parked next to a 69 malibu which had the 2" dropped spindles. My elky was at least as low in the front as his. My springs were stock replacements about 6 years ago. I don't know what he had. One problem which surfaced after the GW conversion. My frame has sagged, I never noticed with stock suspension alignment. The shop could not get the numbers for camber that GW recommends. I need to have the frame spread to achieve their numbers (neg 1 degree as I recall). I don't know when I'll have this done. It rides/drives fine and money is tight right now. Finally I saved about $100, by buying thru Nationall Parts Depot. They are not my favorite supplier but, they were the only place I found that discounted the GW stuff. The workmanship of the GW arms is outstanding (FWIW). rick (Abilene Texas) 72 El Camino TPI 350/700r4 ACES #00140 TEAM CHEVELLE #00038 http://members.home.net/jimmy4/rick1972elky.html http://chevelles.com/showroom/ricks%20motor%20-L On Thu, 01 Nov 2001 15:10:27 -0600 "Michael Ishee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > >Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > >I am doing a frame off restoration on my '70 chevelle and i am about >to >begin redoing the suspension. I was dead set on using Hotchkis's >complete >setup however i got to reading the info on Global West's site and they >seem >to know what they are talking about. So does anyone have any >experience >with either one of these comapanies or any recommendations. Also i >would >like to lower the car more than the 1" drop the new performance coils >offer >does anyone have any ideas on how i could go about doing this. >Thanks >Michael Ishee > > > > >_ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at >http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > > >- >To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html >To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] [Chevelle] disc brake conversion
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Cliff, I check the usual suppliers, SSB, MP Brakes, etc. Baer units would bolt to existing spindles so I didn't have to break ball joints loose. Most "kits" were in the $795 to $895 range and the Baer system was $985; a bit more but they also offered the option of the polished caliper and the drilled/slotted/zinc washed rotors. Others may have as well, but didn't see it anywhere or their site was too difficult to find it. Also, the proportioning valve was NOT included in the price, it was another $50 or so but it's adjustable. I got mine through a friend/dealer in Wichita Falls, Tx and it all cost me $1200 (retail is $985 plus $140 (?) for zinc washed/drilled/slotted rotors plus $120 (?) for polished calipers, and $50 for the prop valve) so I got a little bit of a break. The 13" Track system was only $10 more than the 12" Sport system. A no-brainer there. The 12" system would allow the fit of most (not all) 16" wheels and there is no tried and true method except trial-and-error. Since I used 17" wheels, I'd have clearance even with the 13" brakes. While it's true that replacement pads, rotors, and calipers may not be off-the-shelf items, the pads should last a good, lng time and Baer has been around long enough that I feel confident other replacement or rebuild parts will be available when the time comes. Their URL is http://www.baer.com and have brochures and application guides available in Adobe Reader (.PDF) format you can easily download. I don't know why they kits would not fit any dropped spindles but I'd give them a call for any "custom" applications and get their recommendations. They are located in Phoenix and their phone is (602) 233-1411. There is a "contact" page at http://www.baer.com/contact.shtm you can fill in the info you have and comments. They were very good at getting back to me. Installation was a simple bolt-on. Removed front drums and hubs as one assembly, bolted on new hub, adapter brackets for calipers, a simple R&R of the master cylinder (included with kit), replaced old rubber brake lines with supplied braided lines, bled MC and brakes. I did plumb in the adj prop valve on the inside of the frame and also added a Line Loc from Hurst so there was a bit more plumbing than usual. Everything they supplied fit like a champ and not much more work than a normal brake job. Dale > > Dale, > I have been considering using the Baer 4 disc brake system on > my car. How > much did the kit cost you and do you think i could get a kit to > adapt to 2" > drop spindles. Also what made you decide on the Track system. > Thanks > Michael > > >From: "396guy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] [Chevelle] disc brake conversion > >Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 17:09:16 -0600 > > > > > >Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > > > > >Cliff, > > > >I don't want to throw any water on your project, it sounds like > a good one. > >I used Baer brakes on my front end. Quite possibly it's the size of the > >calipers that make the difference but with their 12" brakes they > require a > >16" wheel w/0" offset. They said most 16" wheels would work > (15" would NOT > >work) but they had no list of which 16" would and/or would not work; it > >depended on the offset of the wheel (not the backspace) and the > thickness > >of > >the rim. I opted for the 13" Track system since I was going with 17" > >wheels > >anyway. > > > >All of their systems bolt to stock spindles (like mine did with > my 67) and > >have all brackets, bolts, master cylinder, etc. I did have to order an > >adjustable proportioning valve as a separate item and make up a couple of > >lines to fit it in. > > > >Naturally, everyone has their own choice of disc sizes, brands, etc. but > >the > >13" system was only $10 more than the 12" system they have and, > as I said, > >I > >was going to use 17" wheels anyway so I opted for the larger > setup. Then I > >sprung for the polished calipers, slotted/drilled/zinc dipped > rotors... :*) > > > >Dale McIntosh > >ACES #1709/TC #92 Gold > >67 SS/67 Elky > >http://www.dalesplace.com > > > > > > > The first guy said I need at least a 15x8" rim > > > for the 12" rotors to fit, and the second guy said that they will > > > work with the 15x7's with (worst case scenario) some minor > > > caliper machining. Does anyone else have experience with this > > > kit, or any other 12" kit out there using 15" wheels? I know > > > several of you out there are using 12" front rotors, and I > > > thought at least one person had them with 15" rims (Rodney in > > > AZ?). Any advice/problems encountered/experiences with this or > > > any similar kits (or 12" rotors in general) would be greatly > > > appreciated. TIA. > > > >
RE: [Chevelle-List] Anyone ever Clear coat aluminum?
Cool, thanks. I'm having my ACCEL FI polished during the upcoming engine overhaul and this may just help it stay looking shiny! Dale -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 6:53 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Anyone ever Clear coat aluminum? Eastwood has an item called "Diamond Clear" thats supposed to work on several different types of metals..Fuel resistant and withstands temps to 300 degrees F.,, "Ideal for underhood applications except exaust manifolds"... 10200Z : 12 oz. aerosol $9.99 ( 3 or more $8.99) 10189Z : 1 pint brush-on $11.99 (3 or more $9.99) USA 1-800-345-1178 Canada 1-800-820-9042 g'luck, mike
Re: [Chevelle-List] 67 Frame
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List If you have ahydraulic ram type engine hoist, you can stick the arm through the door / window opening. (Depending how high you want to lift) Use 2 chains and cross them kitty corner between the front and rear seat belt mounting holes. Bolt them in at the best estimated chain length versus hoist travel factor. Find the balance point, put a bolt thru the two chains and lift away. Of course this worked out REALLY well when I did my convertible. But I have heard of people doing it on hardtops too.. Good Luck. Bill tom blawkamp wrote: > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > > That is right about using concrete block, they are meant to be used core > hole up for down pressure loads. Standing on it's side will crush with any > foward or side pressure. Tom B. > - Original Message - > From: John Nasta <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 7:59 AM > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 67 Frame > > > > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > > > > > Not only should you not use blocks, you also shouldn't stack them on their > > sides the way you did (holes facing out). That makes them even weaker. The > > holes should be on top & bottom so that the weight is supported by solid > > cement rather than air. That is how these blocks were meant to be used. > > > > So, you just painted the frame right there and then dropped the body back > > onto it? It doesn't look like you could have rolled it out. Not saying > this > > is bad, just haven't seen it before. > > > > John > > > > -Original Message- > > DO NOT USE BLOCKS when I was moving them to put them away 3 broke right > > apart. Too close for comfort. > > > > These links are pictures of my body going back on frame > > http://members.tripod.com/benj30/id304.htm > > http://members.tripod.com/benj30/id303.htm > > > > > > > > > > - > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] 1970 Chevelle suspension
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I am doing a frame off restoration on my '70 chevelle and i am about to begin redoing the suspension. I was dead set on using Hotchkis's complete setup however i got to reading the info on Global West's site and they seem to know what they are talking about. So does anyone have any experience with either one of these comapanies or any recommendations. Also i would like to lower the car more than the 1" drop the new performance coils offer does anyone have any ideas on how i could go about doing this. Thanks Michael Ishee _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] [Chevelle] disc brake conversion
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Anyone have a phone# or website for Baer? TIA. > > I have been considering using the Baer 4 disc brake system on my car. How > much did the kit cost you and do you think i could get a kit to adapt to 2" > drop spindles. Also what made you decide on the Track system. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] [Chevelle] disc brake conversion
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Dale, I have been considering using the Baer 4 disc brake system on my car. How much did the kit cost you and do you think i could get a kit to adapt to 2" drop spindles. Also what made you decide on the Track system. Thanks Michael >From: "396guy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] [Chevelle] disc brake conversion >Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 17:09:16 -0600 > > >Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > >Cliff, > >I don't want to throw any water on your project, it sounds like a good one. >I used Baer brakes on my front end. Quite possibly it's the size of the >calipers that make the difference but with their 12" brakes they require a >16" wheel w/0" offset. They said most 16" wheels would work (15" would NOT >work) but they had no list of which 16" would and/or would not work; it >depended on the offset of the wheel (not the backspace) and the thickness >of >the rim. I opted for the 13" Track system since I was going with 17" >wheels >anyway. > >All of their systems bolt to stock spindles (like mine did with my 67) and >have all brackets, bolts, master cylinder, etc. I did have to order an >adjustable proportioning valve as a separate item and make up a couple of >lines to fit it in. > >Naturally, everyone has their own choice of disc sizes, brands, etc. but >the >13" system was only $10 more than the 12" system they have and, as I said, >I >was going to use 17" wheels anyway so I opted for the larger setup. Then I >sprung for the polished calipers, slotted/drilled/zinc dipped rotors... :*) > >Dale McIntosh >ACES #1709/TC #92 Gold >67 SS/67 Elky >http://www.dalesplace.com > > > > The first guy said I need at least a 15x8" rim > > for the 12" rotors to fit, and the second guy said that they will > > work with the 15x7's with (worst case scenario) some minor > > caliper machining. Does anyone else have experience with this > > kit, or any other 12" kit out there using 15" wheels? I know > > several of you out there are using 12" front rotors, and I > > thought at least one person had them with 15" rims (Rodney in > > AZ?). Any advice/problems encountered/experiences with this or > > any similar kits (or 12" rotors in general) would be greatly > > appreciated. TIA. > > > > > > >- >To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html >To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Anyone ever Clear coat aluminum?
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List I have been told that the Diamond Clear from Eastwood works very well on aluminum intake manifolds. I was going to do this myself as a winter project. Tom - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Blown header gasket??
sounds like you've got the right idea with the gasket just take the bolts out of the header and check. if blown replace with a gasket that matches the exhaust port shape and size. you have to fight with it a little bit to get it back on but it is easier if you remove the exhaust at the flange to
Re: [Chevelle-List] 67 Frame
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List That is right about using concrete block, they are meant to be used core hole up for down pressure loads. Standing on it's side will crush with any foward or side pressure. Tom B. - Original Message - From: John Nasta <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 7:59 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 67 Frame > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > > Not only should you not use blocks, you also shouldn't stack them on their > sides the way you did (holes facing out). That makes them even weaker. The > holes should be on top & bottom so that the weight is supported by solid > cement rather than air. That is how these blocks were meant to be used. > > So, you just painted the frame right there and then dropped the body back > onto it? It doesn't look like you could have rolled it out. Not saying this > is bad, just haven't seen it before. > > John > > -Original Message- > DO NOT USE BLOCKS when I was moving them to put them away 3 broke right > apart. Too close for comfort. > > These links are pictures of my body going back on frame > http://members.tripod.com/benj30/id304.htm > http://members.tripod.com/benj30/id303.htm > > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] 67 Frame
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List That is how we did the Blazer. We jacked it up and used heavy-duty saw-horses on each side with steel pipes and 4X4 posts to set it on. The hardest, and scariest, part was having it that far up in the air, since the bottom of the car has to be higher than the tire. One thing I recommend is to try and jack up both ends pretty much equal. If you get one end clear up in the air, and then try to bring the other end up from ground level, you might have it shifting on you. > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > > In a message dated 10/31/01 12:37:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > << I > have a friend who says to use jacks to get the body up and then roll the > frame out from under it, I don't know how I'll end up doing mine, but I know > I'll need more room than what I have got. > Josh >> > > Josh, I did it with my 70 and the 69. Its fairley easy. Let me know when > your ready and I'll give the lowdown. > > Tom > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] 67 Frame
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Not only should you not use blocks, you also shouldn't stack them on their sides the way you did (holes facing out). That makes them even weaker. The holes should be on top & bottom so that the weight is supported by solid cement rather than air. That is how these blocks were meant to be used. So, you just painted the frame right there and then dropped the body back onto it? It doesn't look like you could have rolled it out. Not saying this is bad, just haven't seen it before. John -Original Message- DO NOT USE BLOCKS when I was moving them to put them away 3 broke right apart. Too close for comfort. These links are pictures of my body going back on frame http://members.tripod.com/benj30/id304.htm http://members.tripod.com/benj30/id303.htm - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Anyone ever Clear coat aluminum?
Eastwood has an item called "Diamond Clear" thats supposed to work on several different types of metals..Fuel resistant and withstands temps to 300 degrees F.,, "Ideal for underhood applications except exaust manifolds"... 10200Z : 12 oz. aerosol $9.99 ( 3 or more $8.99) 10189Z : 1 pint brush-on $11.99 (3 or more $9.99) USA 1-800-345-1178 Canada 1-800-820-9042 g'luck, mike
RE: [Chevelle-List] Anyone ever Clear coat aluminum?
Anyone ever reply to this? Dale McIntosh ACES #1709/TC #92 Gold 67 SS/67 Elkyhttp://www.dalesplace.com -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 9:11 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Anyone ever Clear coat aluminum? I have heard about some people polishing up their aluminum valve covers and then clear coating them to keep them nice looking and bright. Have any of you done this? If so, what type of clear coat did you use and what did you use to prep the polished aluminum for the clear coat? I assume you would have to use a heat approved clear coat? Thanks Lonhttp://www.geocities.com/brook92000/Index.html67 Chevelle and 70 Monte Carlo
