Re: [Chevelle-list] Car Inspection needed in Sterling IL.

[Fleshead]

Looking at a Camaro in Illinois, about 100 miles west of  Chicago.
Any good inspection people in that area?
 
Dont worry, not giving up my 70 SS!
 
Thanks,
Ed
 
 


 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuse Block

[Jim Thompson]

The fuse has nothing to do with the brakes. Check the brake light switch on
the pedal bracket. The wires going to the switch maybe rubbing and grounding
out. 

 

You could bypass the block and use an inline fuse. The short could be at one
of the bulb sockets. Try tracing the short with a probe test light.

 

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Brad Waller
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 6:45 PM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuse Block

 

I think the fuse block on my '67 is going bad.  

 

I blow fuses randomly for the brakes, and even when I replace the fuse the
brakes sometimes don't work.  Then they do.  Either way, the turn signals
always work.  This implies the wiring after the fuse block has to be pretty
good and it is either the fuse block or the dash wiring.

 

The reason I suspect the fuse block over the dash wiring is that I can play
with the fuse and the brake lights will start to work or stop.

 

Assuming it is the fuse block, am I better off replacing it with a stock
fuse block, or an aftermarket one with modern fuses?

Brad Waller (b...@epage.com)

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 

'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuse Block

[Brad Waller]

 Thanks!  That gives me a weekend project and is cheap to boot. I'll 
have to see if I have grease and a new wire wheel for the Dremel to 
polish the contacts...


Brad

On 11/3/2010 7:27 AM, Rick Schaefer wrote:
Before swapping the fuse block, I would take the 2 halves apart and 
see what is going on.I bet that you have corrosion between the 
contacts.   To disassemble the 2 halves,  there is a small bolt (7/16 
or so)  in the middle of the engine side of the firewall that needs to 
be removed.Unless it is broken/split, the block itself doesn't 
go bad,  the wiring & internal connections are what cause problems.


 Also, I think it will be difficult to find someone to sell ONLY the 
fuse block.   They will try to sell the entire harness.   Of course 
that would eliminate any defective wiring.


 I BELIEVE that an original replacement would be easier to deal with 
than an updated version.   The wiring color code will be uniform and 
all connections will be in the same location.What ever you do, 
when reassembling be sure to use plenty of dielectric grease on the 
contacts and in the fuse block voids.   The grease will keep out 
moisture & dirt to prevent future problems.   Good luck with it.


On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 5:44 PM, Brad Waller > wrote:


I think the fuse block on my ’67 is going bad.

I blow fuses randomly for the brakes, and even when I replace the
fuse the brakes sometimes don’t work. Then they do. Either way,
the turn signals always work. This implies the wiring after the
fuse block has to be pretty good and it is either the fuse block
or the dash wiring.

The reason I suspect the fuse block over the dash wiring is that I
can play with the fuse and the brake lights will start to work or
stop.

Assuming it is the fuse block, am I better off replacing it with a
stock fuse block, or an aftermarket one with modern fuses?

Brad Waller (b...@epage.com )

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16

'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17




--
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuse Block

[Rick Schaefer]

Before swapping the fuse block, I would take the 2 halves apart and see what
is going on.I bet that you have corrosion between the contacts.   To
disassemble the 2 halves,  there is a small bolt (7/16 or so)  in the middle
of the engine side of the firewall that needs to be removed.Unless
it is broken/split, the block itself doesn't go bad,  the wiring & internal
connections are what cause problems.

 Also, I think it will be difficult to find someone to sell ONLY the fuse
block.   They will try to sell the entire harness.   Of course that would
eliminate any defective wiring.

 I BELIEVE that an original replacement would be easier to deal with than an
updated version.   The wiring color code will be uniform and all connections
will be in the same location.What ever you do, when reassembling be sure
to use plenty of dielectric grease on the contacts and in the fuse block
voids.   The grease will keep out moisture & dirt to prevent future
problems.   Good luck with it.



On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 5:44 PM, Brad Waller  wrote:

>  I think the fuse block on my ’67 is going bad.
>
>
>
> I blow fuses randomly for the brakes, and even when I replace the fuse the
> brakes sometimes don’t work.  Then they do.  Either way, the turn signals
> always work.  This implies the wiring after the fuse block has to be
> pretty good and it is either the fuse block or the dash wiring.
>
>
>
> The reason I suspect the fuse block over the dash wiring is that I can play
> with the fuse and the brake lights will start to work or stop.
>
>
>
> Assuming it is the fuse block, am I better off replacing it with a stock
> fuse block, or an aftermarket one with modern fuses?
>
> Brad Waller (b...@epage.com)
>
> '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16
>
> '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17
>



-- 
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino