Before swapping the fuse block, I would take the 2 halves apart and see what is going on. I bet that you have corrosion between the contacts. To disassemble the 2 halves, there is a small bolt (7/16 or so) in the middle of the engine side of the firewall that needs to be removed. Unless it is broken/split, the block itself doesn't go bad, the wiring & internal connections are what cause problems.
Also, I think it will be difficult to find someone to sell ONLY the fuse block. They will try to sell the entire harness. Of course that would eliminate any defective wiring. I BELIEVE that an original replacement would be easier to deal with than an updated version. The wiring color code will be uniform and all connections will be in the same location. What ever you do, when reassembling be sure to use plenty of dielectric grease on the contacts and in the fuse block voids. The grease will keep out moisture & dirt to prevent future problems. Good luck with it. On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 5:44 PM, Brad Waller <b...@epage.com> wrote: > I think the fuse block on my ’67 is going bad. > > > > I blow fuses randomly for the brakes, and even when I replace the fuse the > brakes sometimes don’t work. Then they do. Either way, the turn signals > always work. This implies the wiring after the fuse block has to be > pretty good and it is either the fuse block or the dash wiring. > > > > The reason I suspect the fuse block over the dash wiring is that I can play > with the fuse and the brake lights will start to work or stop. > > > > Assuming it is the fuse block, am I better off replacing it with a stock > fuse block, or an aftermarket one with modern fuses? > > Brad Waller (b...@epage.com) > > '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 > > '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 > -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
