[Chevelle-list] CLOSEST THING TO BEINGA CELEBRITY! (OWNING A CHEVELLE SS CONV'T)
Amazing. I'm done with it, owning something like this is wonderful! But I want to work on my business,.. '68 Chevelle SS CONVERTIBLE (origional w/ extras) Origional engine, origional tranny, matching numbers, some extras, in number 3 condition. Make an offer, become famious for a few $ dollars per gallon,...Astound people. Resell in a few years, double your profit. Have fun, life is short, nothing like it on the road around you today. Call me: 352-486-5039, we'll talk. --John PS: This is not a fire sale.
[Chevelle-list] Should I sell or should I wait?
Hello Fellow Chevelle Enthusiasts! From time to time I wonder what a highly modified Chevelle (stock appearance outside) SS Convertible is worth. I know they are accrueing at $1500.-$2,000. dollars a year. It's a '68 Chevelle SS Convertible: Sea Frost Green (silver green) origional color, was painted a couple years ago cheap, showing, wear but still looks pretty good and get a lot of compliments. Has all new repop trim and fresh stock appearing 1" black stripe around body as they came with from factory. 4 speed M-20 (origional 3 speed man.I have for it) Origional engine (Now Edelbrock Aluminum heads), I have the origional 325 iron heads, origionally buckets, now headrested recovered buckets correct for year. Tilt column correct with correct wood grain wheel, disc brakes, custom with '92 1LE Z-28 Camaro Disks, aluminum radiator. No a.c, manual top., no console, 15"rallye rims, origional NOS caps and 14" wheels available. Have origioal AM radio, now with satellite radio Alpine, and 360 watt and four integrated speakers, concealed. 4-link F-41 NOT origional, and aftermarket, Hotchkis, KYB Shocks. Closed rear end. (open = stock), Eaton. 670 Avenger Holley w/ auto choke. Top is new 5 year, not origional but the best available, "black"a couple months old, and black interior, less than two years old. Deluxe seatbelts. Runs very well, just keep filling with gas! Is asking 28K out of line? Or start bid at 20K in e-Bay? A lot of people tell me that e-Bay! is not a good place to list. Feelings? Any ideas? Those aremy questions: E-Bay any good? Should I ask so much? Should I sell at all? Pics avaiulable to interested persons. Car really moves, and handles, Lowered one inch (Hotchkis), engine recently rebuilt just broke in (1500 miles). Turn key car. Drive anywhere. It's very reliable, and drives well with nearly new tires, new alternator, headlights, oil change, etc. This list is great! --John Warburton FLORIDA PS: I love this car and have 35K in it, but times have been tough, and I am considering selling. Want a pic, just write and ask. Thanks. Call for quicker response: 352-256-1873
[Chevelle-list] Linkage Problem!
Hi Everybody, I just want to sayTHIS LIST has been invaluable to me. If it wasn't for you guys I would have sold my SS Convertible long ago and probably to some shyster who would resell for what it's worth well over what I got in it. You guys keep me hanging onto this car,...You're great! My Chevelle would be nothing without this group helping. What's bothering me is, this has definitelyhappened before so I know what's up--Just don't know how to stop my 4-speed linkage from breaking at the cotterpin that permits the linkage from shifting from 2nd gear to 3rd beyond. It's just a cotter pin every time, and the car sits so low I'm always 50 miles from home when it happens to break anew, no shop will put it up in the air at the moment IF I CAN FIND A SHOP that's open and will haul it up in the air to do the necessary 2 minute operation that it takes to re-attach the linkage install a new cotterpin which breaks 2000 miles later all over again. Just this afternoon it happened again when I was in the middle of hauling a motorcycle thru Florida. I had to drive in 2nd all the way home in a rainstorm down the interstate. Very nerve racking experience, but I made it home 4500 RPMs and a coast at a time--All 50 miles of it! Horrible experience, and thank heavan I run 3.08's at the rear end or I'd been sunk. Oh and the windshield wipers don't work either, so Rain-X helped, too. Any ideas? Thanks, John Warburton '68 Chevelle SS Conv't Aluminum heads now, WOW!
[Chevelle-list] GET THE FAT MAT
Couple years ago I realized I had to do something about the noise level in my Chevelle. While I do run quiet mufflers, afterall it is a convertible we're talking about, the headaches I was having even with the top up were getting to me. I was in the midst of totally redoing the interior when it came to my attention that might as well update insulation, having replaced everything else with new, better, more reliableor safer. If I'm less fatigued after a long trip, then I will also have had a much safer trip. Every little bit less the car can beat me senseless on a long trip is good to me, you understand? Think about it. The stock insulation is heavy, deteriorates quickly, doesn't perform to the levels of anything by today's standards. It is also not visible so why not replace it with better than origional? I used Fat Mat. I doubled even tripled in some areas where drivetrain nose would be a problem. Only used this material in places it wouldn't be seen/detected easily, ie., not under hood, or trunk areas. The product is really thin and appears to be tar asphalt like substance on aluminum backing. Stuff is sticky seems to adhere better than some applications of Dynamat I've heard about. I bought off e-Bay! It comes in a kit, and one box did everything I wanted and more: Hence the 2-3 layers I spoke of the results were excellent. Drastically reduced road noises that seemed to invade interior before to nowreasonable levels. It was less expensive than Dynamat. Roller included was okay. I never had to acetone wash the old surface, but I did scrap it well andclean it with detergent.Backing is very sticky tar, conformed well to different contours of the pans. Sometimes I worked small peices into curves overlapping sometimesfor better coverage. Helped to amplifythe clarity of the stereo immensely, itmade the overal feeling in the car more secure by isolating occupants from a lot of vibration and heat previously coming from drivetrain floor firewall, The rest is history now thanks to Fat Mat! Too bad I couldn't get paid to sponsor them, LOL. John Warburton
[Chevelle-list] After 396 Build Up Hard To Start Car's Engine.
Hey RJ et al, I never felt like my 325 HP 396 had any real power even with it's 4 speed m-20 and 3.08 posi rear. I saved/dreamed of aluminum heads. IWAS going to go with stock date coded factory aluminum heads but many people told me that they can be difficult to find parts for and they would NEVER flow like a modern set of aluminum heads. After 5 years of dreaming: Finally built up my '68 SS Convertible's 396. I used Edelbrock Aluminum Heads, Crane Cam #286, Forged aluminum pistons and Scat steel rods, and a steel crank shaft (4 bolt mains). The intake is a matched oval port Edelbrock Aluminum "Air Gap" manifold. I'm using 100 cc heads, and toldthe engine isdeveloping 9.5 to 1 conservatively-9.45. Somewhere in there. (That doesn't sound very technical but that's what I was told.). The engine was origional '68. It's .060 over. 12" 1LE Camaro Z-28 front slotted disks w/ Caprice SW spindles, Global West bushings, and quick turn ratio GB. A BeCoolaluminum radiator keeps things quite cool. Eaton Posi Hotchkis 1 inch lowered springs, KYB shocks, and a 4 link suspension with a 7/8" sway bar get the HP to the rear wheels. The a/c and 6 speed will be a dream for The Future! (Yes, I know rectangular aluminum heads would be better choice but I didn't have the extra $250. for another intake.) I already had the oval port intake situation w/ origional oval port iron heads FROM BEFORE. Expensive build up cost way over $6200. that the shop charged me over the cost of crank, rods and other parts I brought them. Horsepower was dyno'd at 310 @ the rear wheels. A guestimate at flywheel was figured at about 390-400HP. They figure +22% loss through the driveshaft differential. Southard Machine of Bronson, FLdid the machining work and afterwards Rollins Automotive in Gainesville, FL did the assembly. It took almost5 months turn-around-time. After rebuild I expected 425-450 horsepower at the flywheel. I was surprised at the lower horsepower rating than what I was expecting. I was told by Rollins that the exhaust was too restrictive and my Holly 670, while a good street carb, was too small and a 750 DBL PUMPER would be a much better choice for performance. The subject of a numerically lower rear end gear was NOT discussed because this is a street car and gas is expensive enough at 12 miles to the gallon. A, if only I had a six speed or a Gear Vendor Overdrive Unit!! The pipes were too narrow, the mufflers too restrictive, and myleft side ceramic coatedaluminum header (an old Dynomax unit from before they were discontinued) should be replaced because it had at least 30% restriction from making hard contactwith driveway humps, and tall speed bumps, etc. I was told if I change out the headers for some Hooker Headers, get a good 3" exhaust from Pypes Performance, and change out my 670 for a 750 Holley I could be making a good40 more horsepower at the rear wheels. The car is easy to drive now. It's not like I have traction problems unless I want to. Also,passing can be done with confidence. Rather than wondering whether the slacker in the lowered turbo Eclipse is going tospeed up to avoid my being able to passhim only to slow down to stay in front as an offensive--That sort of thing no longer happens. My Chevelle comes on so strong that MOST "would be racers" don't even try beyond the first peddle mashing effort. I still won't try a late Formula Firebird (T/A), Z-28 or Corvette, BUT I"M HAPPY WITH WHAT I GOT HERE. Except for one little thing: Even the stock 375 HP 396 GM starter isn't good enough. My problemisafter the car heats up to operating temperature I can't get it started until it cools back down. I am told I need to get a "high torque" starter. What kind would you guys reccomend? How much should that cost? RJ or anyone else, if you want more details about the engine build up you could write me an email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks for whatever you could tell me! John Warburton A.C.E.S. #6448
[Chevelle-list] Built 396 (aluminum heads) hard to start!
Hey RJ et al, I never felt like my 325 HP 396 had any real power even with it's 4 speed m-20 and 3.08 posi rear. I saved/dreamed of aluminum heads. IWAS going to go with stock date coded factory aluminum heads but many people told me that they can be difficult to find parts for and they would NEVER flow like a modern set of aluminum heads. After 5 years of dreaming: Finally built up my '68 SS Convertible's 396. I used Edelbrock Aluminum Heads, Crane Cam #286, Forged aluminum pistons and Scat steel rods, and a steel crank shaft (4 bolt mains). The intake is a matched oval port Edelbrock Aluminum "Air Gap" manifold. I'm using 100 cc heads, and toldthe engine isdeveloping 9.5 to 1 conservatively-9.45. Somewhere in there. (That doesn't sound very technical but that's what I was told.). The engine was origional '68. It's .060 over. 12" 1LE Camaro Z-28 front slotted disks w/ Caprice SW spindles, Global West bushings, and quick turn ratio GB. A BeCoolaluminum radiator keeps things quite cool. Eaton Posi Hotchkis 1 inch lowered springs, KYB shocks, and a 4 link suspension with a 7/8" sway bar get the HP to the rear wheels. The a/c and 6 speed will be a dream for The Future! (Yes, I know rectangular aluminum heads would be better choice but I didn't have the extra $250. for another intake.) I already had the oval port intake situation w/ origional oval port iron heads FROM BEFORE. Expensive build up cost way over $6200. that the shop charged me over the cost of crank, rods and other parts I brought them. Horsepower was dyno'd at 310 @ the rear wheels. A guestimate at flywheel was figured at about 390-400HP. They figure +22% loss through the driveshaft differential. Southard Machine of Bronson, FLdid the machining work and afterwards Rollins Automotive in Gainesville, FL did the assembly. It took almost5 months turn-around-time. After rebuild I expected 425-450 horsepower at the flywheel. I was surprised at the lower horsepower rating than what I was expecting. I was told by Rollins that the exhaust was too restrictive and my Holly 670, while a good street carb, was too small and a 750 DBL PUMPER would be a much better choice for performance. The subject of a numerically lower rear end gear was NOT discussed because this is a street car and gas is expensive enough at 12 miles to the gallon. A, if only I had a six speed or a Gear Vendor Overdrive Unit!! The pipes were too narrow, the mufflers too restrictive, and myleft side ceramic coatedaluminum header (an old Dynomax unit from before they were discontinued) should be replaced because it had at least 30% restriction from making hard contactwith driveway humps, and tall speed bumps, etc. I was told if I change out the headers for some Hooker Headers, get a good 3" exhaust from Pypes Performance, and change out my 670 for a 750 Holley I could be making a good40 more horsepower at the rear wheels. The car is easy to drive now. It's not like I have traction problems unless I want to. Also,passing can be done with confidence. Rather than wondering whether the slacker in the lowered turbo Eclipse is going tospeed up to avoid my being able to passhim only to slow down to stay in front as an offensive--That sort of thing no longer happens. My Chevelle comes on so strong that MOST "would be racers" don't even try beyond the first peddle mashing effort. I still won't try a late Formula Firebird (T/A), Z-28 or Corvette, BUT I"M HAPPY WITH WHAT I GOT HERE. Except for one little thing: Even the stock 375 HP 396 GM starter isn't good enough. My problemisafter the car heats up to operating temperature I can't get it started until it cools back down. I am told I need to get a "high torque" starter. What kind would you guys reccomend? How much should that cost? RJ or anyone else, if you want more details about the engine build up you could write me an email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WOULD A HEAT SHIELD HELP TOO!!? Thanks for whatever you could tell me! John Warburton A.C.E.S. #6448
[Chevelle-list] WHAT TO CALL YOUR CHEVELLE?
HEY SCOTT, WHY DON'T YOU CALL IT WHAT IT IS: YOUR EXPENSIVE WHORE MONSTER! LOL, John in Florida
[Chevelle-list] NEED HELP WITH TILT COLUMN!
Hello, Recently I decided I wanted a tilt wheel column for my 1968 Chevelle. Now the problem is they're really hard to find in good shape and so I bought one from Gary's Steer- ing Column Restoration in Koon Kreek, TX for $419. total shipped and everything all rebuilt, even came with cancel cam and a new tilt lever. Now the bad part was the wires were all backwards on the column's harness so every one of the wires had to be re- moved and reattached to their rightful electrical ends. Then everything was working good and I bolted on a Grant Steering Wheel I had sitting around. That because the '68 Walnut Steering Wheel I had bought on eBay! and I was having it restored at (another "Gary's") Gary's Steering Wheel Restoration in Carlisle, Pennsylvania. The Grant fit right on the new column and I waited, and still drove my Chevelle around. Easy waiting that way! Just yesterday the Origional Walnut Steering Wheel arrives but then it doesn't fit. Apparently the origional wood wheel hub for this steering wheel is correct---No chance it can't be! This hub and subsequent hubs I looked at all being the same and recessed 3/8's of an inch under the edge and flat across. I looked at a few pictures I had on file of '68 tilt column I saw being sold on e-Bay! and this looks identical, but none of my pictures shows the locking plate on the end of the column shaft. Then I call Gary's (The one in Texas!) and I explain the locking plate (the thing-a-ma-bob with the three holes in it) is sticking an inch and a half out of the bell housing of the steering column and the bottom of the steering wheel hub is only recessed a quarter inch = No-can-put-together-scenario, and so I said, "Whatsupwithat!!?" Guy says he needs a picture but doesn't have anybody there with internet. Then I ask him "Can locking plate be taken off the shaft by a puller?" He then says that he wasn't aware '68's had a locking plate. I tell him this was sent by his company and was very explicitly stated that it's a completely rebuilt 1968 tilt column for Chevelle. That doesn't surprise me but still I tell him that this appears to be a 1968 floor shifted GM steering column in all ways except the locking plate. Can anybody tell me, "Can I just take this off?" Or do I have to go and remove and reship this entire column back to Gary's? Can anyone tell me? HELP! --J.G. Warburton '68 Chevelle SS CVT A.C.E.S. # 6448
[Chevelle-list] TILT COLUMN WON'T MATE UP STEERING WHEEL, HELP
You Guys, It's not the wiring. That's configured. The problem is the "SHAFT" has a locking plate on it. Is it supposed to? I heard from the "Nice folks at Gary's it's not supposed to--." and I can't be pulling their heads from their darker nether regions on this issue except to try to get my money back. ANYBODY GOT OR KNOW SOMEONE WITH A '68 !!? ANYONE HAVE AN EXPLODED VIEW THAT THEY COULD SEND ME THE PICTURE? I have acrobat 6. I can't berlieve the amount of money and time = hundreds of dollars and scores of hours. Well at least I took out my frustrations in life with this project,...Didn't hurt anyone and it's cheaper than GOLF and LIQUOR. Aaarrrggghhh! Send any off-line info you can, LOVE YOU GUYS! [EMAIL PROTECTED] Here's a repeat of my text: Hello, Recently I decided I wanted a tilt wheel column for my 1968 Chevelle. Now the problem is they're really hard to find in good shape and so I bought one from Gary's Steer- ing Column Restoration in Koon Kreek, TX for $419. total shipped and everything all rebuilt, even came with cancel cam and a new tilt lever. Now the bad part was the wires were all backwards on the column's harness so every one of the wires had to be re- moved and reattached to their rightful electrical ends. Then everything was working good and I bolted on a Grant Steering Wheel I had sitting around. That because the '68 Walnut Steering Wheel I had bought on eBay! and I was having it restored at (another "Gary's") Gary's Steering Wheel Restoration in Carlisle, Pennsylvania. The Grant fit right on the new column and I waited, and still drove my Chevelle around. Easy waiting that way! Just yesterday the Origional Walnut Steering Wheel arrives but then it doesn't fit. Apparently the origional wood wheel hub for this steering wheel is correct---No chance it can't be! This hub and subsequent hubs I looked at all being the same and recessed 3/8's of an inch under the edge and flat across. I looked at a few pictures I had on file of '68 tilt column I saw being sold on e-Bay! and this looks identical, but none of my pictures shows the locking plate on the end of the column shaft. Then I call Gary's (The one in Texas!) and I explain the locking plate (the thing-a-ma-bob with the three holes in it) is sticking an inch and a half out of the bell housing of the steering column and the bottom of the steering wheel hub is only recessed a quarter inch = No-can-put-together-scenario, and so I said, "Whatsupwithat!!?" Guy says he needs a picture but doesn't have anybody there with internet. Then I ask him "Can locking plate be taken off the shaft by a puller?" He then says that he wasn't aware '68's had a locking plate. I tell him this was sent by his company and was very explicitly stated that it's a completely rebuilt 1968 tilt column for Chevelle. That doesn't surprise me but still I tell him that this appears to be a 1968 floor shifted GM steering column in all ways except the locking plate. Can anybody tell me, "Can I just take this off?" Or do I have to go and remove and reship this entire column back to Gary's? Can anyone tell me? HELP! --J.G. Warburton '68 Chevelle SS CVT A.C.E.S. # 6448
