[Chevelle-List] 74 elky, 67 chevelle
74 elky big-block. Hm, if i wasn't a broke college student, yeah i would be. just thought I'd pass on that there is some interest out there. BTW guys, Ive always wanted a 67 chevelle, and after that drag racing discussion, I was wondering how much they weighed that year? Rob _ ProPilots Network Email - http://webmail.propilots.net/ _ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Bad News On Heads... HELP.
One other thing to consider- the SR's have a thicker deck and are probably a more durable casting. I wish they had an updated chamber design though. Rob --- message from Capt Crunch [EMAIL PROTECTED] attached: _ ProPilots Network Email - http://webmail.propilots.net/ _ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag ---BeginMessage--- Hoss has some good points. I'm also willing to bet he has two sets in his garage cause he wants too much for them. For all the reasons stated... these heads just aren't worth what they once were. I have looked for a set a couple times but most times they are shot or they plum want too much money for them. The SR's are a great head... but to get to the humps level... you are gonna need to work them... which in themselves is gonna cost ya. I had a set of these on a 355 and the were ok... took them off and have them done up and WOW! they were way better! But in the end you still have 800-1000 into them. Vortecs are great and are probably a great fit for this application... but they limit the lift you can run without major work on them, self aligning rockers if you don't have them,and also require a different intake... so how cost efficient they are... well depends what kinda money you have to stick in the humps. Mikey - Original Message - From: Sparc-le Line Lead Sent: Friday, January 31, 2003 7:17 AM To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Bad News On Heads... HELP. snipProbably worth just sticking the money into the heads to have the work donenow that you have them in your pocession unless you wanted to go to vortechheads or are willing to take a step down in performance with a differnthead. I'm not sure different heads would be a 'step down' in performance. I wouldthink factory originality would be the driving factor of what heads to use.Don't get me wrong, in their day the 462/492 "camel hump" heads were the baddest on theblock! Now they are overshadowed by all but the most crappy OEM heads. Their combustionchamberis antiquated and it requires a lot of ignition lead to be efficient andmake power which in turn contributes to octane sensitivity and you mayexperience detonation. Now, I'm not saying you can't use them or they won'tmeet your power goals; because you can and they will...But...Realize that ifyou have a set of pre-1970 camel humps (and most are) that they do not haveductile iron valve seats in them which means you'll have to replace them inorder to run unleaded pump gas. While you're at it you'll probablydetermine you need to replace the valves as well. Replacing the seats,valves, doing a valvejob, and probably reworking the valveguides so it won'tleak will probably set you back around $500-$600. That doesn't include alittle bowl work on the ports which I highly suggest doing (though you cando this yourself). What I would do instead would be to purchase a set ofWorld Products S/R Torquer heads. These iron castings were designed as abolt on improvement/replacement for the old GM heads. Get the set with the2.02/1.60 valves and get them complete. You can buy them for a little lessthan $700 per pair! When you get them do a little bowl work to improve theflow a little.Just my .02. I have 2 sets of camel backs in the garage because,even though I replaced them, I can't seem to sell them either!Hoss__Do you Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.http://mailplus.yahoo.com-ew topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]-To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.htmlTo start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]___This message, including any attachments, may contain informationthat is confidential and proprietary information of Advanced Energy Industries, Inc. The dissemination, distribution, use or copying of this message or any of its attachments is strictly prohibited without the express written consent of Advanced Energy Industries, Inc.-To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.htmlTo start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---End Message---
Re: [Chevelle-List] Yet another question: Electric Fan set up versus Clutch ...
Most new cars have to use electrics, because they have transverse mounted engines. I run a mechanical becuase its simple and reliable, but my engine is pretty tame due to lack of funds. The other guys on the list have a lot more experience with powerful (hot) engines. Rob --- message from [EMAIL PROTECTED] attached: _ ProPilots Network Email - http://webmail.propilots.net/ _ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag ---BeginMessage--- In a message dated 1/29/03 7:10:53 AM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My question is what set up do you prefer, i.e., the clutch fan set up or the electric fan set up. And, have you noticed most modern cars have gone electric ? Your opinions sought. Thanks, Ken McDee P.S. Car will not be raced. A cruiser/driver. Just my 2 cents worth.. Since you are crusin you will be spending some time at stop lights ect..I would go with the electric set up..or both with a thin push fan that you can turn on and off. Temp is up click on..I used this combo on my Nova SS and plan on doing same with my El Camino. Once I went to ele. never had a problem with overheating or should I say cooling it back down. Might want to think of running a oil cooler also. You really don't end up spending as much as you think when compared to what you got invested. ..Just my humble opinion Bill A 67 El Camino 66 El Camino 66 Nova SS 78 Silver Annv. Corvette ---End Message---
Re: [Chevelle-List] Flowmaster Ruining America
NoisefreeAmerica- Self righteous ignorant jackasses. I can't stand people who can't bother to find out the facts on an issue before making stupid public announcements like this. And what about all the s--theads who drive around with their 500 watt stereos turned up all the way? There's way more of them around than there are people with loud exhausts. Rob --- Dave Corgill [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At 07:12 PM 01/27/2003 -0500, you wrote: Flowmaster: Destroying America With Thunder Flowmaster, manufacturer of loud, hot-rod performance exhaust systems, has won this month's Noisy Dozen award from Noise Free America. Flowmaster, based in Santa Rosa, California, proclaims that it manufactures high performance mufflers and complete exhaust systems. It has hundreds of different exhaust systems that produce an aggressive muscle car sound. Let's take up a collection send them a case of ear-plugs made in CHINA. Besides they forgot about setting all the Toy-YO-YO's car alarms off as you idle by G. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ ProPilots Network Email - http://webmail.propilots.net/ _ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Original Baltimore MD, Flint-MI, Oshowa-Canada VIN Decals
Forgive my ignorance, but Im not sure what you mean by VIN decal. I only know of the metal tag under the windshield, and the trim tag on the cowl. My car was built in Baltimore, but its a '76, so it may not be the same as yours should be anyway. If you want, I'll be more than happy to look though. Rob --- message from Jim Morrison [EMAIL PROTECTED] attached: _ ProPilots Network Email - http://webmail.propilots.net/ _ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag ---BeginMessage--- Does anyone have a digital picture of an original GM VIN Decal from a Baltimore (the one I'd really like to have most) car? It can come from a parts door or from a bone yard. I'm just interested in how the numbers were placed on the decal so I can put them on the way they are supposed to be. I have pictures from the Kansas, Atlanta, and Texas plants. If you have a Flint Michigan, Van Nuys Californiaor Oshawa, Canada decal picture, I'd appreciate a picture of those also. Best regards James W Morrison2370 N County Rd 1800Burnside, IL 62330[EMAIL PROTECTED] - emailACES - 02295Late Great Chevy - 051741Team Chevelle - 318 ---End Message---
RE: [Chevelle-List] Suspension bushings
I'm not trying to be argumentative, but I have polygraphite bushings in the front and it doesn't seem to ride too hard to me, and it only squeaks in very cold weather (freezing) and even then not too bad. I think it boils down to a matter of personal preference. It does handle pretty nice for a heavy car. Rob _ ProPilots Network Email - http://webmail.propilots.net/ _ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag ---BeginMessage--- Personally I dont recommend polyurethane bushings unless you are racing or doing some other hard driving that warrants them. Not only can they squeak, they also make the ride very stiff. If you are just driving the car on the street normally, I personally think you would be better off with rubber bushings. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dwight Fulton Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 9:39 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Suspension bushings I'm getting ready to redo the suspension on my 72 El Camino and would like to use polyurethane bushings but, have heard several horror stories about the urethane bushings squeaking. Anybody have any experience with these bushings? Are graphite inpregnated poly bushing OK? or do they squeak also. Hate to spend 300.00 or more on the suspension bushings that will drive me nuts. Thanks, Dwight MSN 8 helps ELIMINATE E-MAIL VIRUSES. Get 2 months FREE*. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]---End Message---
Re: [Chevelle-List] RWD V8's
I agree completely with that roadrunner approach. Being a college student, I'll say all I can do is dream about anything new with a V8 in it, even for several years after graduation. Rob --- message from Dwight Fulton [EMAIL PROTECTED] attached: _ ProPilots Network Email - http://webmail.propilots.net/ _ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag ---BeginMessage--- I'm glad to see the big 3 back in the (Hi-PO) market. I believe if they follow thru with support and service that they can starting pulling the"fast furious crowd" away from the rice burners and get them in some US iron. They need to built some stripped down versions (like the old Roadrunners)that are cheaper to buy and that will helpexpand the base of interest in performance cars by maybe allowing young guns the chance to buy in. Us old guys aren't going to be around forever and I'd hate to see my Elky in the hands of a ricer. Dwight 72 Elky/86 L98/ TPI ---End Message---
Re: [Chevelle-List] Engine rebuild -what would you have done and why?
I was always one to stick to small blocks, until I bought a 75 caprice covertible with a factory 454, solely because it was cheap and had a BB. It ran like crap till I tuned it up, and then I was converted...They pull like freight trains. I remember picking my dad up from the bar one night, and he remarked it didn't seem to have much pickup. WOT resulted in a subdued ohok And that was an emmisions restrained motor. The car got crushed, but the 454 is waiting for a workover and new home, hehe. Don't get guides knurled, its well worth it to have new bronze inserts put in. Rob Chevelle 69 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am still trying to figure out which builder I want to go with on my 396/402. I am tempted to go with doing as much as I can at home, but the reliability of a local builder that does it all the time and has all the special tools sounds good, still I won't learn as much. In any case, I went into a local speed shop today to talk to them. I was given a tour. They are mostly a MOPAR shop, but build Chevy's and Fo**'s as well. He showed me how they were building a 64 wedge engine with a dual offset quads ..sweet! And a Chevy 560 racing engine in there made my Big Block look puny. The guy showed me more huge machines than I knew existed in a machine shop. Many of them computer controlled. Looks like a lot of them were acquired in the second half of the 90's. What he said to me sounded pretty good ...the only thing I might have to do is reign back how much HP he builds into it, as I hope to drive this thing long distances and I want to be able to pass gas stations as well as rice rockets. I mean, I'd hate to have a Rustang laugh at me (I know, I know ...some of the new ones can really fly).s have to have a little performance if I ever need it... But at the same time, there is a limit to what's logical for driving it on long trips. Still I guess many a 502 with 502 HP are driven on ling trips? I heard once that you don't want valve guides re-knurled. Get new ones. Anyone have any knowledge there? What about the guys that say they put in all stainless steel valves and name brand names? Would going through the expense of putting in all new springs although some test ok have any merit? Any particular brand bearings for reliability? Why? What other quality would you build in for reliability and longevity or efficiency? I've never owned a big block before...never even driven one. Maybe I'll get this big block curiosity out of my system and build a 350 for it later. Steve - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ ProPilots Network Email - http://webmail.propilots.net/ _ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] High Amp Alternator Upgrade=3 wire vs. one wire set up
I think the 3 wire setup performs better, check out madelectrical.com I don't think they have anything to gain by this, so their explanation seems logical. Rob _ ProPilots Network Email - http://webmail.propilots.net/ _ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag ---BeginMessage--- This question applies to my 67 Chevelle Malibu with 383 stroker engine. I have a 63 amp alternator now. It has the 3 wire with external voltage regulator set up=original style set up. I noticed that when I drive the 67 Chevelle at night with headlights on, the voltage meter drops from 14 to 12 volts(or 10-11 at idle), and one time the idiot generator light came on. I am planning to add a stereo system plus maybe an electric fan to my radiator. So I know I have to upgrade to a High Amp alternator. I was planning to go with a 138 High Amp alternator that uses the original three wire set up. I understand with this set up I can have both the idiot lights and separate after market guages--which I currently have. My question is first comment on drop in voltage above. Second, do I just stick with the 3 wire, High AMp Alternator at 138 amps. Or go to a one wire set up with the same 138 Amp alternator. Is there a significant performance gain in a one wire set up over the original 3 wire set up ? Note: The external voltage regulator is new. Thanks, Ken McDee Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now---End Message---
Re: [Chevelle-List] Comp or Crane Cam?
You could take the heads in to a shop and have hardened seats installed, but its not something you can do at home if thats what you're asking. Rob --- J. Brady [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: While you are doing this, are you able to replace the valve seats as well? I am doing this on a set of heads that are off of the motor. I'm just asking b/c of how alot of people say that you should have hardened valve seats installed if you are going to run on today's gas.. Jim '66 Chevelle --- Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There's also a cheap tool that does the same thing that you can buy at Auto Zone, etc for about $10. It isn't as good a tool but it does work. Don KD Tools makes a tool that will compress the valve springs with the heads still on the motor. I have one that I used to replace the valve springs on my motorhome. I was able to use the hose and fittings from my compression tester to put compressed air into the cylinder I was working on to keep the valve closed when the spring was removed. I almost learned the hard way about moving the piston up to the top before removing the valve springs. If the piston is at the bottom and you lose air pressure the valve will fall into the cylinder. Then you have to remove the head. I found a webpage that shows the tool I am talking about: http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi13.html#3087 It's the first one on the page, KD 912. Bill Vander Werf @chevelles.net - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ ProPilots Network Email - http://webmail.propilots.net/ _ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] new products
Do any of you know if anyone is making upholstery for 73-77 swivel buckets? Or the console lid for these cars, it has a plastic hinge that always breaks. Thanks, Rob --- John Nasta [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, Just letting you know that the convertible top well (pinchweld) moldings will soon be available for all GM A-body cars from 1966-72 (several different p/n's depending on your make, model year). Keep your eyes peeled. Coming soon to a store near you. John Nasta - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ ProPilots Network Email - http://webmail.propilots.net/ _ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] RE:Qjet starting
The Q jet does suffer from hard starting when it sits for a while, but it's usually pretty easy to fix. The base plate (throttle body) has to be removed and the well plugs on the bottom of the bowl epoxied over. Don't forget to clean all the gum off so the epoxy sticks. Rob --- tc [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Any feedback on putting 880 Holley street avenger on LS-6 crate Rat? Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 5:23 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] RE: carbs. In a message dated 1/11/03 2:54:01 PM EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Q-jet will work good when set up right. One thing I notice is that my Q-jet car is hard to start if it sits for a week without running. If it sits one day it starts fine. I put in a fuel filter with check valve but that didn't help. I tried a few different choke settings but that didn't help either. I read that there could be a problem with fuel draining out but I have not disassembled the carb to check that. The car runs fine beside the problem of too long cranking time after sitting for a week. My Holley equip car starts no problem even after sitting more then a week ** ** I read an article on this, it said the screws on the base need to be sealed. i think it said to use clear nail polish. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ ProPilots Network Email - http://webmail.propilots.net/ _ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get [EMAIL PROTECTED] w/No Ads, 6MB, POP more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
