Re: Stus-List Montague Harbour

2013-04-10 Thread Knowles Rich
Jeez, Jim. Looks like a perfect new career in the making. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-04-10, at 1:26, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote:

Here's the listing...

http://www.bcoceanfront.com/oceanfront-galiano-islandmontague-harbour-marina?id=273




On 9 April 2013 21:22, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote:
 That marina seems like it has been for sale forever. The new buyers wait 
 maybe a year before putting out the for sale sign again. I suspect it's got 
 a lot of potential. It's a potential sinkhole. 
 
 
 
 
 On 9 April 2013 18:37, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:
 This place is up for sale.  $1.6M
 Sailing friend of mine is looking at it seriously. 
 Anyone on the west coast know anything about it? 
 Anything of concern?
 Is it popular?
 Is the island sinking into the sea? 
 
 I've sailed the Gulf Islands and the San Juans a lot, but never been to 
 Montague. 
 
 Sam Salter 
 CC 26 Liquorice 
 Ghost Lake Alberta 
 
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC



-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Spiders - was Leather Wheel cover

2013-04-10 Thread Stevan Plavsa
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I am on a mooring so no dock. The spiders come out at night and hide in the
canvas work and anywhere else that is dark during the day. Right now that
means the sail cover, the dodger, the bimini... and the pedestal. which is
why I'm worried about the cover. I do like the looks of the sailrite DIY
kit though. I'm fastidious about clearing away any cobwebs whenever I get
to the boat, I have a little mini-broom just for spiders and spider webs. I
kill or throw overboard whatever I can find. They never really seem to go
in the cabin so that's at least something. I have tried that spider spray
from the chandlery and it works, but it's temporary. I'll give some of your
suggestions a try, it's probably going to end up being a combo of chemical
warfare and discipline. Spiders suck for a number of reasons, they are
messy sure but what really sucks is bringing friends out on the boat and
then having them be uncomfortable the entire time because they saw a spider
or six. I take a lot of my girlfriend's friends sailing. A lot of the
twenty-somethings that come out seem to have only ever seen spiders like
mine on the internet :/

Bar Keepers Friend is good at cleaning spider shit and spider guts, just
FYI. It's good for cleaning the entire boat for that matter but I think
most of you know this.

Steve
CC 32
Toronto



On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 11:02 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote:

 I used to have a spider problem, as do many of the folks on my dock at the
 club where I keep the boat. I have spent considerable time on moorings or
 at anchor, and can’t really say I have ever had a problem – though the
 little buggers do seem to be able to “fly” out to the boat on the wind and
 a thread of silk and I still had the occasional spider even when away from
 the dock.

 ** **

 Now I say “used” to have a problem. Several of us have done two things to
 eliminate it.

 ** **

 First, the spiders are there so they can eat the other bugs. Hence all the
 webs in the morning. (As someone already commented, you probably won’t get
 any spiders under your pedestal cover because there is no food there.) The
 clue for us was that the webs on the docks and the boats were densest every
 morning in the vicinity of the dock lighting. Light draws bugs. Bugs draw
 spiders. (and spiders draw birds that sit on the lifelines and boom, and
 poop all over the deck)

 ** **

 Several of us replaced the bulbs in the dock lighting with low wattage
 yellow bug lights. Something like 10 watt night light bulbs. The number of
 spiders and webs greatly reduced – or maybe just moved to be adjacent to
 OPBs.

 ** **

 Secondly, to take care of the remaining spiders several of us use a
 bugspray called “BugOff” that we purchase at Lowes. It comes in a gallon
 (or maybe 2 gallon) bottle with a pump and spray nozzle, and boy does it
 work well. We spray the dock, docklines, and pilings, and the area of the
 boat where the spiders build webs. A couple of applications and no spiders
 for 2 or 3 months. Repeat as required.

 ** **

 Hope this helps with your problem.

 ** **

 ** **

 Rick Brass

 Washington, NC

 ** **

 ** **

 ** **

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan
 Plavsa
 *Sent:* Tuesday, April 09, 2013 11:39 AM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

 ** **

 At my club we have a tremendous problem with spiders. I'm on a mooring and
 the boat is COVERED in them. I looked at the binnacle cover kit from
 sailrite and while it looks like a good solution to keeping the wheel in
 nice shape it will most certainly become a favourite refuge for the
 spiders. 

 ** **

 Anyone else have a spider problem? I'm talking hundreds of them, every
 time I visit the boat. 

 ** **

 Steve CC 32

 Toronto

 ** **

 ** **

 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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Re: Stus-List Spiders - was Leather Wheel cover

2013-04-10 Thread Joel Aronson
Steve,

I made a pedestal cover out of 2 yards of Sunbrella, a can of 3M adhesive
spray and 2 snaps.  I need to stitch the bottom of one seam.  It is not
elegant, (the top is square) but it protects the instrument pod.

Joel
35/3


On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 8:39 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote:

 Thanks for all the suggestions.
 I am on a mooring so no dock. The spiders come out at night and hide in
 the canvas work and anywhere else that is dark during the day. Right now
 that means the sail cover, the dodger, the bimini... and the pedestal.
 which is why I'm worried about the cover. I do like the looks of the
 sailrite DIY kit though. I'm fastidious about clearing away any cobwebs
 whenever I get to the boat, I have a little mini-broom just for spiders and
 spider webs. I kill or throw overboard whatever I can find. They never
 really seem to go in the cabin so that's at least something. I have tried
 that spider spray from the chandlery and it works, but it's temporary. I'll
 give some of your suggestions a try, it's probably going to end up being a
 combo of chemical warfare and discipline. Spiders suck for a number of
 reasons, they are messy sure but what really sucks is bringing friends out
 on the boat and then having them be uncomfortable the entire time because
 they saw a spider or six. I take a lot of my girlfriend's friends sailing.
 A lot of the twenty-somethings that come out seem to have only ever seen
 spiders like mine on the internet :/

 Bar Keepers Friend is good at cleaning spider shit and spider guts, just
 FYI. It's good for cleaning the entire boat for that matter but I think
 most of you know this.

 Steve
 CC 32
 Toronto



 On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 11:02 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.netwrote:

 I used to have a spider problem, as do many of the folks on my dock at
 the club where I keep the boat. I have spent considerable time on moorings
 or at anchor, and can’t really say I have ever had a problem – though the
 little buggers do seem to be able to “fly” out to the boat on the wind and
 a thread of silk and I still had the occasional spider even when away from
 the dock.

 ** **

 Now I say “used” to have a problem. Several of us have done two things to
 eliminate it.

 ** **

 First, the spiders are there so they can eat the other bugs. Hence all
 the webs in the morning. (As someone already commented, you probably won’t
 get any spiders under your pedestal cover because there is no food there.)
 The clue for us was that the webs on the docks and the boats were densest
 every morning in the vicinity of the dock lighting. Light draws bugs. Bugs
 draw spiders. (and spiders draw birds that sit on the lifelines and boom,
 and poop all over the deck)

 ** **

 Several of us replaced the bulbs in the dock lighting with low wattage
 yellow bug lights. Something like 10 watt night light bulbs. The number of
 spiders and webs greatly reduced – or maybe just moved to be adjacent to
 OPBs.

 ** **

 Secondly, to take care of the remaining spiders several of us use a
 bugspray called “BugOff” that we purchase at Lowes. It comes in a gallon
 (or maybe 2 gallon) bottle with a pump and spray nozzle, and boy does it
 work well. We spray the dock, docklines, and pilings, and the area of the
 boat where the spiders build webs. A couple of applications and no spiders
 for 2 or 3 months. Repeat as required.

 ** **

 Hope this helps with your problem.

 ** **

 ** **

 Rick Brass

 Washington, NC

 ** **

 ** **

 ** **

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan
 Plavsa
 *Sent:* Tuesday, April 09, 2013 11:39 AM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

 ** **

 At my club we have a tremendous problem with spiders. I'm on a mooring
 and the boat is COVERED in them. I looked at the binnacle cover kit from
 sailrite and while it looks like a good solution to keeping the wheel in
 nice shape it will most certainly become a favourite refuge for the
 spiders. 

 ** **

 Anyone else have a spider problem? I'm talking hundreds of them, every
 time I visit the boat. 

 ** **

 Steve CC 32

 Toronto

 ** **

 ** **

 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com



 ___
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 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com




-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Boats for sail - Craigslist

2013-04-10 Thread Joel Aronson
Here is info on the design:
http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=2138

Love that rudder!
Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 8:41 AM, Della Barba, Joe
joe.della.ba...@ssa.govwrote:

 Info for you all:

 ** **

 The interior is fine.  In the process of Spring cleaning inside and out.
  Will post interior photos after a weeks time.  Mostly working on the
 bottom paint, boot stripes and hull wax now.

 ** **

 On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 12:04 PM, Della Barba, Joe 
 9841edf9cfd13fe7a6a6190c27864...@reply.craigslist.org wrote:

 Do you have any details or photos?

 For example, I have no idea from the ad if the interior looks new or is a
 rotted mess.

 THANKS

 Joe

  

 http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/3724616438.html

 ** **

 ** **

 *Joe Della Barba*

 Coquina

 ** **

 Could be a nice boat for someone.

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
 Aronson
 *Sent:* Tuesday, April 09, 2013 11:46 AM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List Boats for sail - Craigslist

 ** **

 40' CC Crusader Sloop 
 Sailboathttp://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/3724616438.html
  $15000 (Irvington, VA) pic map http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boo/ boats
 - by owner http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/
 


 

 38' CC Sailboat http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/3732591117.html
  1977 $3 (South River) pic boats - by 
 ownerhttp://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/
  

 ** **

 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551 

 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com




-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Re: Stus-List Spiders - was Leather Wheel cover

2013-04-10 Thread Knowles Rich
Seems like a shame to chuck them overboard when you could be enjoying them. 
Suggest trying: http://bertc.com/subfive/recipes/spidersalad.htm


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-04-10, at 9:39, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks for all the suggestions. 
I am on a mooring so no dock. The spiders come out at night and hide in the 
canvas work and anywhere else that is dark during the day. Right now that means 
the sail cover, the dodger, the bimini... and the pedestal. which is why I'm 
worried about the cover. I do like the looks of the sailrite DIY kit though. 
I'm fastidious about clearing away any cobwebs whenever I get to the boat, I 
have a little mini-broom just for spiders and spider webs. I kill or throw 
overboard whatever I can find. They never really seem to go in the cabin so 
that's at least something. I have tried that spider spray from the chandlery 
and it works, but it's temporary. I'll give some of your suggestions a try, 
it's probably going to end up being a combo of chemical warfare and discipline. 
Spiders suck for a number of reasons, they are messy sure but what really sucks 
is bringing friends out on the boat and then having them be uncomfortable the 
entire time because they saw a spider or six. I take a lot of my girlfriend's 
friends sailing. A lot of the twenty-somethings that come out seem to have only 
ever seen spiders like mine on the internet :/

Bar Keepers Friend is good at cleaning spider shit and spider guts, just FYI. 
It's good for cleaning the entire boat for that matter but I think most of you 
know this.

Steve
CC 32
Toronto



On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 11:02 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote:
 I used to have a spider problem, as do many of the folks on my dock at the 
 club where I keep the boat. I have spent considerable time on moorings or at 
 anchor, and can’t really say I have ever had a problem – though the little 
 buggers do seem to be able to “fly” out to the boat on the wind and a thread 
 of silk and I still had the occasional spider even when away from the dock.
 
  
 
 Now I say “used” to have a problem. Several of us have done two things to 
 eliminate it.
 
  
 
 First, the spiders are there so they can eat the other bugs. Hence all the 
 webs in the morning. (As someone already commented, you probably won’t get 
 any spiders under your pedestal cover because there is no food there.) The 
 clue for us was that the webs on the docks and the boats were densest every 
 morning in the vicinity of the dock lighting. Light draws bugs. Bugs draw 
 spiders. (and spiders draw birds that sit on the lifelines and boom, and poop 
 all over the deck)
 
  
 
 Several of us replaced the bulbs in the dock lighting with low wattage yellow 
 bug lights. Something like 10 watt night light bulbs. The number of spiders 
 and webs greatly reduced – or maybe just moved to be adjacent to OPBs.
 
  
 
 Secondly, to take care of the remaining spiders several of us use a bugspray 
 called “BugOff” that we purchase at Lowes. It comes in a gallon (or maybe 2 
 gallon) bottle with a pump and spray nozzle, and boy does it work well. We 
 spray the dock, docklines, and pilings, and the area of the boat where the 
 spiders build webs. A couple of applications and no spiders for 2 or 3 
 months. Repeat as required.
 
  
 
 Hope this helps with your problem.
 
  
 
  
 
 Rick Brass
 
 Washington, NC
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
 Plavsa
 Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 11:39 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?
 
  
 
 At my club we have a tremendous problem with spiders. I'm on a mooring and 
 the boat is COVERED in them. I looked at the binnacle cover kit from sailrite 
 and while it looks like a good solution to keeping the wheel in nice shape it 
 will most certainly become a favourite refuge for the spiders.
 
  
 
 Anyone else have a spider problem? I'm talking hundreds of them, every time I 
 visit the boat.
 
  
 
 Steve CC 32
 
 Toronto
 
  
 
  
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Re: Stus-List Defender delivery

2013-04-10 Thread Hoyt, Mike
Brent
 
Does that mean you did not have to buy all your supporting charts from
iTunes and trade in all your std horizon VHF and other gear for Appl...
er Ramarine?  I thought that once you bought a single Raymarine product
(say a compass if they had such ... that you would have to replace
everything else you owned with Raymarine as well and connect them using
RayCloud and buy everything from RayTunes 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent
Driedger
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery


I have purchased 3 separate  Raymarine products for my boat in the last
2 years from 3 different suppliers including Defender. Each time the
product arrived I am surprised by the very un-Apple like way they do
their packaging. The only reassurance I have that the product was last
touched by foreign factory workers is that the instructions and
supporting bits are sealed in baggies. 

Brent
27-5
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-04-09, at 10:41 PM, djhaug...@juno.com djhaug...@juno.com
wrote:



Well,
 
They sent me out another unit it is exactly the same...  Except,
now everything says TackTick instead of Raymarine...  If it wasn't for
that, I'd have bet it was the same box of stuff...
 
I don't what to say...  Why would they open the boxes...it does
not make any sense to me...
 
Is the fact that it now says TackTick mean anything...  It's
just weird...  guess I'll stick with this and see if it works...
 
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 09:28:30 -0300





Danny
 
Do you suspect this was maybe a display unit at some point?  Are
they offering an open box discount like many big box retailers do?
 
Mike


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf
Of djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 7:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery

 
Okay,
So the Tack tick/raymarine instruments just showed up Thursday
night.  I opened the shipping box and pulled out the Tack Tick box and
the first thing I notice is the factory seal is broken.  I go no further
and write them the next morning and tell them about the seal.  Thay then
say, 
Mr. Haughey,

Thank you for your email. There are times when our sales
department will
need to open the boxes on some instruments to double check
something such as
if all the parts are present. I would say go ahead and inspect
the item to
ensure all pieces are in the box and nothing looks amiss. There
should be
instructions in the box which will tell you what should be
included. If
anything looks questionable, please send us a photo and we can
check on our
end to see if that is how the unit should be or not. I do not
think what you
received is anything used, though, we likely just had to get
into an unit
box to check on a part.

Sincerely,...

I really don't like this answer.  Why would they open a box the
check if all the parts are there???  I call BS!

Anyway, I open the box this morning and there are scratches, the
lens protectors are all bubbles underneath.  They just called me as I'm
writing this...

He is telling me that they aren't packages well from the
factory, they have never taken a return...blah blah blah...but, I'll get
another one right out to you...

He have a much better argument if the factory seal wasn't
broken...  The stuff is all rattling around in the box!  This is how ray
marine packages a $2000 system?

I guess Ill find out when I get the next one...

Here a few photos.

http://sdrv.ms/10FhaTl

http://sdrv.ms/10Fhh17

http://sdrv.ms/10FhpO8

http://sdrv.ms/10FhD7S

http://sdrv.ms/10FhGk6

I http://sdrv.ms/10FhpO8 t just all seems quite strange to
me...

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA


-- Original Message --
From: djhaug...@juno.com djhaug...@juno.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2013 06:23:33 -0400

I got my stuff yesterday too!  I did not get a chance to open
the boxes yet but, should do that this evening.

I had walled out of there without ordering a new hatch.  My

Re: Stus-List Defender delivery

2013-04-10 Thread djhaug...@juno.com
Mike,that's funny!...raytunes!  awesome!  Maybe I should be happy the new stuff 
says Tack Tick  LOL Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2013 10:00:22 -0300


Brent Does that mean you did not have to buy all your supporting charts from 
iTunes and trade in all your std horizon VHF and other gear for Appl... er 
Ramarine?  I thought that once you bought a single Raymarine product (say a 
compass if they had such ... that you would have to replace everything else you 
owned with Raymarine as well and connect them using RayCloud and buy everything 
from RayTunes  
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent 
Driedger
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
 I have purchased 3 separate  Raymarine products for my boat in the last 2 
years from 3 different suppliers including Defender. Each time the product 
arrived I am surprised by the very un-Apple like way they do their packaging. 
The only reassurance I have that the product was last touched by foreign 
factory workers is that the instructions and supporting bits are sealed in 
baggies.  Brent27-5s/v Wild RoverLake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone
On 2013-04-09, at 10:41 PM, djhaug...@juno.com djhaug...@juno.com wrote:

Well, They sent me out another unit it is exactly the same...  Except, now 
everything says TackTick instead of Raymarine...  If it wasn't for that, I'd 
have bet it was the same box of stuff... I don't what to say...  Why would they 
open the boxes...it does not make any sense to me... Is the fact that it now 
says TackTick mean anything...  It's just weird...  guess I'll stick with this 
and see if it works... Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 09:28:30 -0300

 
Danny Do you suspect this was maybe a display unit at some point?  Are they 
offering an open box discount like many big box retailers do? MikeFrom: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 7:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
 Okay,So the Tack tick/raymarine instruments just showed up Thursday night.  I 
opened the shipping box and pulled out the Tack Tick box and the first thing I 
notice is the factory seal is broken.  I go no further and write them the next 
morning and tell them about the seal.  Thay then say, Mr. Haughey,Thank you 
for your email. There are times when our sales department willneed to open the 
boxes on some instruments to double check something such asif all the parts are 
present. I would say go ahead and inspect the item toensure all pieces are in 
the box and nothing looks amiss. There should beinstructions in the box which 
will tell you what should be included. Ifanything looks questionable, please 
send us a photo and we can check on ourend to see if that is how the unit 
should be or not. I do not think what youreceived is anything used, though, we 
likely just had to get into an unitbox to check on a part.Sincerely,...

I really don't like this answer.  Why would they open a box the check if all 
the parts are there???  I call BS!

Anyway, I open the box this morning and there are scratches, the lens 
protectors are all bubbles underneath.  They just called me as I'm writing 
this...

He is telling me that they aren't packages well from the factory, they have 
never taken a return...blah blah blah...but, I'll get another one right out to 
you...

He have a much better argument if the factory seal wasn't broken...  The stuff 
is all rattling around in the box!  This is how ray marine packages a $2000 
system?

I guess Ill find out when I get the next one...

Here a few photos.

http://sdrv.ms/10FhaTl

http://sdrv.ms/10Fhh17

http://sdrv.ms/10FhpO8

http://sdrv.ms/10FhD7S

http://sdrv.ms/10FhGk6

It just all seems quite strange to me...

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: djhaug...@juno.com djhaug...@juno.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2013 06:23:33 -0400

I got my stuff yesterday too!  I did not get a chance to open the boxes yet 
but, should do that this evening.

I had walled out of there without ordering a new hatch.  My bowmar hatch has a 
broken hinge and there are no replacement parts available.  So I ended up 
calling then like thursday, after the sale and they honored the sale price on a 
lewmar low profile model.  

I pulled the old hatch over the weekend and all the bolts were suck and some 
snapped.  I guess that the nw hatch was definitely in order.  I've now blown my 
budget for this year.

Danny
Lolita
1973 viking 33
Westport point, ma

T-Mobile. 

Re: Stus-List Montague Harbour

2013-04-10 Thread Frederick G Street
Turn it into a private club for the Pacific NW CC'ers; then you can hold the 
annual rendezvous there…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 10, 2013, at 3:08 AM, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca wrote:

 Jeez, Jim. Looks like a perfect new career in the making. 
 
 Rich Knowles
 Indigo. LF38
 Halifax
 
 On 2013-04-10, at 1:26, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Here's the listing...
 
 http://www.bcoceanfront.com/oceanfront-galiano-islandmontague-harbour-marina?id=273
 
 
 
 
 On 9 April 2013 21:22, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote:
 That marina seems like it has been for sale forever. The new buyers wait 
 maybe a year before putting out the for sale sign again. I suspect it's got 
 a lot of potential. It's a potential sinkhole. 
 
 
 
 
 On 9 April 2013 18:37, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:
 This place is up for sale.  $1.6M
 Sailing friend of mine is looking at it seriously. 
 Anyone on the west coast know anything about it? 
 Anything of concern?
 Is it popular?
 Is the island sinking into the sea? 

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Re: Stus-List Montague Harbour

2013-04-10 Thread Joel Aronson
I sold a marina/campground with 340 acres of land for 2.7 million at
foreclosure in 2011.  The buyer has already invested 5 million in upgrades,
bulkheads, removing derelict boats etc.  If you think a boat is a money
pit, buy a fixer-upper boat yard!

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 9:40 AM, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.netwrote:

 Turn it into a private club for the Pacific NW CC'ers; then you can hold
 the annual rendezvous there…   :^)

 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 On Apr 10, 2013, at 3:08 AM, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca wrote:

 Jeez, Jim. Looks like a perfect new career in the making.

 Rich Knowles
 Indigo. LF38
 Halifax

 On 2013-04-10, at 1:26, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote:

 Here's the listing...


 http://www.bcoceanfront.com/oceanfront-galiano-islandmontague-harbour-marina?id=273




 On 9 April 2013 21:22, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote:

 That marina seems like it has been for sale forever. The new buyers wait
 maybe a year before putting out the for sale sign again. I suspect it's got
 a lot of potential. It's a potential sinkhole.




 On 9 April 2013 18:37, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:

 This place is up for sale.  $1.6M
 Sailing friend of mine is looking at it seriously.
 Anyone on the west coast know anything about it?
 Anything of concern?
 Is it popular?
 Is the island sinking into the sea?



 ___
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-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Montague Harbour

2013-04-10 Thread Knowles Rich
If he does, I'll move! Time for a change. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-04-10, at 10:40, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net wrote:

Turn it into a private club for the Pacific NW CC'ers; then you can hold the 
annual rendezvous there…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 10, 2013, at 3:08 AM, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca wrote:

 Jeez, Jim. Looks like a perfect new career in the making. 
 
 Rich Knowles
 Indigo. LF38
 Halifax
 
 On 2013-04-10, at 1:26, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Here's the listing...
 
 http://www.bcoceanfront.com/oceanfront-galiano-islandmontague-harbour-marina?id=273
 
 
 
 
 On 9 April 2013 21:22, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote:
 That marina seems like it has been for sale forever. The new buyers wait 
 maybe a year before putting out the for sale sign again. I suspect it's got 
 a lot of potential. It's a potential sinkhole. 
 
 
 
 
 On 9 April 2013 18:37, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:
 This place is up for sale.  $1.6M
 Sailing friend of mine is looking at it seriously. 
 Anyone on the west coast know anything about it? 
 Anything of concern?
 Is it popular?
 Is the island sinking into the sea? 

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Re: Stus-List Montague Harbour

2013-04-10 Thread Edd Schillay
Me too. I'll even manage the property for ya for an average salary and a slip 
for the Enterprise. 



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

On Apr 10, 2013, at 10:04 AM, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca wrote:

 If he does, I'll move! Time for a change. 
 
 Rich Knowles
 Indigo. LF38
 Halifax
 
 On 2013-04-10, at 10:40, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net wrote:
 
 Turn it into a private club for the Pacific NW CC'ers; then you can hold the 
 annual rendezvous there…   :^)
 
 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
 
 On Apr 10, 2013, at 3:08 AM, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca wrote:
 
 Jeez, Jim. Looks like a perfect new career in the making. 
 
 Rich Knowles
 Indigo. LF38
 Halifax
 
 On 2013-04-10, at 1:26, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Here's the listing...
 
 http://www.bcoceanfront.com/oceanfront-galiano-islandmontague-harbour-marina?id=273
 
 
 
 
 On 9 April 2013 21:22, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote:
 That marina seems like it has been for sale forever. The new buyers wait 
 maybe a year before putting out the for sale sign again. I suspect it's got 
 a lot of potential. It's a potential sinkhole. 
 
 
 
 
 On 9 April 2013 18:37, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:
 This place is up for sale.  $1.6M
 Sailing friend of mine is looking at it seriously. 
 Anyone on the west coast know anything about it? 
 Anything of concern?
 Is it popular?
 Is the island sinking into the sea? 
 
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Stus-List Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread Paul Taylor
I have a 1977 29 mk1, are the sail numbers the same as part of the hull number 
or were the arbitrarily assigned. 

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Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread Edd Schillay
Paul,

Originally, they were arbitrarily assigned. Sometimes it would have to 
do with the hull number; sometimes not. 

If you race your boat and would like something official, you can ask US 
Sailing to assign you a number, which will be 5-6 digits long. 

Alternatively, if you want to use your own number, especially something 
in the 3-4 digit range, chances are you won't have any local conflicts. 

In my case, I picked 1701 as my sail number (See 
http://www.buildtheenterprise.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/ncc-1701-top-USS-Enterprise.jpg).
 There are no other 1701s in LI Sound and I'd bet the boat that was originally 
assigned 1701 from US Sailing is so old that it's probably long gone by now.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website


On Apr 10, 2013, at 11:05 AM, Paul Taylor besom_ri...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I have a 1977 29 mk1, are the sail numbers the same as part of the hull 
 number or were the arbitrarily assigned. 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread Pierre Tremblay
Hi Paul,
 
I had this answer from sculpin on sailinganarchy when I was searching to change 
ownership of my sail number.
 
Quote: Sail number was assigned to the boat when it was sold, the first two 
are location identifiers.  Totally separate from the HIN (hull identification 
number), which you will find on the transom, upper stbd.  If you are racing you 
will want to register with the local sailing association, they will want your 
sail number (since it is hard to see the 5mm high VIN from the finish line!).

From an old post on there, here is an explanation of sail number assignment:
First, go to: http://offshore.ussa...ail_Numbers.htm

Next, break your sail number into two parts, the first digit and the last four. 
In Tim's case 8  4033.  In the table on the site above, scroll down the first
column to the row with 8.  Now scroll across in that row to the column with the
header block that contains the last four digits.  4033 falls in the 4000-4250
block.  At the intersection is CYA.

Sail number 84033 was issued by Canadian Yachting Association. 
End of quote.
 
My sail number is 54988, which was issued by CYA
 
Pierre Tremblay
Avalanche, #54988
CC38-3 WK



 De : Paul Taylor besom_ri...@yahoo.com
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Envoyé le : mercredi 10 avril 2013 11h05
Objet : Stus-List Sail numbering
  
I have a 1977 29 mk1, are the sail numbers the same as part of the hull number 
or were the arbitrarily assigned. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread Tim Sippel
My sail number is 84033 , 

 

The sails were the ones used In  the CC 33Mkii brochure .. 1984 33 ... 84033  
, the original owners bought the sails when he ordered the boat .  

 

Tim 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pierre 
Tremblay
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 11:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

 

Hi Paul,

 

I had this answer from sculpin on sailinganarchy when I was searching to change 
ownership of my sail number.

 

Quote: Sail number was assigned to the boat when it was sold, the first two 
are location identifiers. Totally separate from the HIN (hull identification 
number), which you will find on the transom, upper stbd. If you are racing you 
will want to register with the local sailing association, they will want your 
sail number (since it is hard to see the 5mm high VIN from the finish line!).

From an old post on there, here is an explanation of sail number assignment:
First, go to: http://offshore.ussa...ail_Numbers.htm 
http://offshore.ussailing.org/Sail_Numbers.htm 

Next, break your sail number into two parts, the first digit and the last four. 
In Tim's case 8 4033. In the table on the site above, scroll down the first
column to the row with 8. Now scroll across in that row to the column with the
header block that contains the last four digits. 4033 falls in the 4000-4250
block. At the intersection is CYA.

Sail number 84033 was issued by Canadian Yachting Association.

 

End of quote.

 

My sail number is 54988, which was issued by CYA

 

Pierre Tremblay

Avalanche, #54988

CC38-3 WK

 

De : Paul Taylor besom_ri...@yahoo.com
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Envoyé le : mercredi 10 avril 2013 11h05
Objet : Stus-List Sail numbering


I have a 1977 29 mk1, are the sail numbers the same as part of the hull 
number or were the arbitrarily assigned. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread Bob Hickson
Most of the 29 Mark 1  and Mark 2 fleet use the 3 digit number from the hull
ID number

 

 

Ie hull number CCY29693D485 = sail number 693

 

If you email me off list with your contact info, I will add you to the list
of 29 owners

-  Your name, Boat Name, full hull number, hailing port, address,
phone, email

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

CC 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

 mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 __/) 

 

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Re: Stus-List Montague Harbour

2013-04-10 Thread Martin DeYoung
Sam,

I concur with Russ's comments.  I have anchored in and visited Montague Harbour 
with Calypso and our prior CC 36 for many years.  Walking the BC park beach is 
one of our favorite BC Gulf Island activities.  More importantly this is one of 
the places the lovely Mrs. Calypso often speaks of as a reason to cross the 
Straits of Juan de Fuca and deal with the border crossings.

Each visit we would dinghy over to the marina and cruise the general store, 
maybe buy lunch or an ice cream cone.  We do have several arty type things in 
our house from Galiano Island artists, purchased at the store.

Using my day job business glasses, anybody purchasing this type of business 
will need significant working capital beyond the purchase price to survive the 
early low season(s) (i.e. winter).

If I was a person of substantial means and was looking for a retirement or 
hobby business I would be interested.  If I needed to make a profit every 
working day to stay afloat this type of business and location would not pass 
the viable business test.

Martin
Calypso
1970 CC 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ  
Melody 
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 6:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Montague Harbour

Hi Sam,

It is a lovely, relatively large harbour. Shallow on the south-east end and 
very protected. A good hurricane hole... except we don't get hurricane here.

Ferry service to Vancouver and to other locations if that's important

I expect 1.6 mil will only by a piece of it and not the park area.

 Cheers, Russ
 Sweet, 35 mk-1

At 06:37 PM 09/04/2013, you wrote:
This place is up for sale.  $1.6M
Sailing friend of mine is looking at it seriously.
Anyone on the west coast know anything about it?
Anything of concern?
Is it popular?
Is the island sinking into the sea?

I've sailed the Gulf Islands and the San Juan's a lot, but never been to 
Montague.

Sam Salter
CC 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta


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Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread Rick Brass
In my experience, there are three ways to get a sail number:

1) Pick a number that you like that is less than 5 digits, and stick with
it. I've known a few people who elected to do this - but that was primarily
because they did not know that the sail numbers actually have a certain
logic to them.

2) Use you hull number, which you will find stamped in your transom, on your
title, on your registration or documentation, etc. Here is a link that
explains how to read the HIN for your boat:
http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.html The sail numbers on my 25
mk1 are 225. The HIN is CCY252250274, hence hull number 225.

3) Get an official North American sail number by the process used at US
Sailing and the Canadian Yachting Association. Go to
http://offshore.ussailing.org/Sail_Numbers.htm to look at the process.
Basically the numbers are issued by several regional authorities including
the Detroit River Yachting Assn., CBYRA, CYA, etc. The numbers are 5 digits
long and issued sequentially. The last 4 digits will tell you the region
where the number was issued, For example the 15202 on my 38 footer was
issued by DRYA when the boat eas first raced. Tom Sippel's 84033 came from
CYC.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Taylor
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 11:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sail numbering

I have a 1977 29 mk1, are the sail numbers the same as part of the hull
number or were the arbitrarily assigned. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List CC Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread Rick Brass
There is another boat with the same number as Koobalibra - somewhere out in
the Pacific Northwest. 59115 is part of the number sequence issued by the
Pacific International Yachting Assn out of Olympia, Washington as part of
the US Sailing/ CYA  system.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 1:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC Sail numbering

 

Koobalibra CC 115 59115

 

Prospector CC99 99095

 

Model and hull number in each case ...

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Hickson
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 1:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sail numbering

Most of the 29 Mark 1  and Mark 2 fleet use the 3 digit number from the hull
ID number

 

 

Ie hull number CCY29693D485 = sail number 693

 

If you email me off list with your contact info, I will add you to the list
of 29 owners

-  Your name, Boat Name, full hull number, hailing port, address,
phone, email

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

CC 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

 mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 __/) 

 

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Re: Stus-List CC Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread Hoyt, Mike
I will have to let Dave know not to enter us in any Pacific NW regattas
this summer.  That delivery would be a bitch anyway though.
 
This does pointyout the problems with manufacturers assigning sail
numbers.  Should be all assigned by US Sail, Cansail or other national
bodies at time of boat manufacture in my opinion.  
 
Of course my boat has two sail numbers - 150 (hull number) and 50757.
Thankfully all the sails with 150 on them are now gone so is less
confusing for me.  Would hate to look up and think I was on the wrong
boat and have to jump overboard during a race!
 
Mike
Nut Case 50757
Koobalibra crew 59115 (the East Coast 59115)
 
 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 3:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC Sail numbering



There is another boat with the same number as Koobalibra - somewhere out
in the Pacific Northwest. 59115 is part of the number sequence issued by
the Pacific International Yachting Assn out of Olympia, Washington as
part of the US Sailing/ CYA  system.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 1:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC Sail numbering

 

Koobalibra CC 115 59115

 

Prospector CC99 99095

 

Model and hull number in each case ...

 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Hickson
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 1:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sail numbering

Most of the 29 Mark 1  and Mark 2 fleet use the 3 digit number from the
hull ID number

 

 

Ie hull number CCY29693D485 = sail number 693

 

If you email me off list with your contact info, I will add you to the
list of 29 owners

-  Your name, Boat Name, full hull number, hailing port,
address, phone, email

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

CC 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com 

 

 __/) 

 

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Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread Gary Nylander
Around here, the five digit numbers are issued by the CBYRA for racing, mine is 
83346, with the 3 being identified with Chesapeake Bay.

Or, I could use the CC 593 number, being the hull number of the boat.

Our J-24 has a one design number of 1223 (old boat), as the new ones are in the 
5000 range.

Don't know how Canada does it.

Gary
St. Michaels
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tim Sippel 
  To: Pierre Tremblay ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 11:40 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail numbering


  My sail number is 84033 , 

   

  The sails were the ones used In  the CC 33Mkii brochure .. 1984 33 … 84033  
, the original owners bought the sails when he ordered the boat .  

   

  Tim 

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pierre 
Tremblay
  Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 11:21 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

   

  Hi Paul,

   

  I had this answer from sculpin on sailinganarchy when I was searching to 
change ownership of my sail number.

   

  Quote: Sail number was assigned to the boat when it was sold, the first two 
are location identifiers. Totally separate from the HIN (hull identification 
number), which you will find on the transom, upper stbd. If you are racing you 
will want to register with the local sailing association, they will want your 
sail number (since it is hard to see the 5mm high VIN from the finish line!).

  From an old post on there, here is an explanation of sail number assignment:
  First, go to: http://offshore.ussa...ail_Numbers.htm

  Next, break your sail number into two parts, the first digit and the last 
four. 
  In Tim's case 8 4033. In the table on the site above, scroll down the first
  column to the row with 8. Now scroll across in that row to the column with the
  header block that contains the last four digits. 4033 falls in the 4000-4250
  block. At the intersection is CYA.

  Sail number 84033 was issued by Canadian Yachting Association.

   

  End of quote.

   

  My sail number is 54988, which was issued by CYA

   

  Pierre Tremblay

  Avalanche, #54988

  CC38-3 WK

 

De : Paul Taylor besom_ri...@yahoo.com
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Envoyé le : mercredi 10 avril 2013 11h05
Objet : Stus-List Sail numbering


I have a 1977 29 mk1, are the sail numbers the same as part of the hull 
number or were the arbitrarily assigned. 

Sent from my iPhone
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  This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject 
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distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly 
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applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect our business. 
E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted any risk if you 
communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please notify us 
immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any computer or 
any storage medium without printing a copy.

  Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et 
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Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread Edd Schillay
Maybe Canada does it based on the number of spiders on board?



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

On Apr 10, 2013, at 3:01 PM, Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net wrote:

 Around here, the five digit numbers are issued by the CBYRA for racing, mine 
 is 83346, with the 3 being identified with Chesapeake Bay.
  
 Or, I could use the CC 593 number, being the hull number of the boat.
  
 Our J-24 has a one design number of 1223 (old boat), as the new ones are in 
 the 5000 range.
  
 Don't know how Canada does it.
  
 Gary
 St. Michaels
 _

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Re: Stus-List CC Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread Ken Heaton
Mike,

Has Dave decided if he is bringing Koobalibra up for Race the Cape?

Ken H.

http://www.racethecape.ca/


On 10 April 2013 15:27, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote:

 **
 I will have to let Dave know not to enter us in any Pacific NW regattas
 this summer.  That delivery would be a bitch anyway though.

 This does pointyout the problems with manufacturers assigning sail
 numbers.  Should be all assigned by US Sail, Cansail or other national
 bodies at time of boat manufacture in my opinion.

 Of course my boat has two sail numbers - 150 (hull number) and 50757.
 Thankfully all the sails with 150 on them are now gone so is less confusing
 for me.  Would hate to look up and think I was on the wrong boat and have
 to jump overboard during a race!

 Mike
 Nut Case 50757
 Koobalibra crew 59115 (the East Coast 59115)



  --
 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick
 Brass
 *Sent:* Wednesday, April 10, 2013 3:22 PM

 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List CC Sail numbering

  There is another boat with the same number as Koobalibra – somewhere out
 in the Pacific Northwest. 59115 is part of the number sequence issued by
 the Pacific International Yachting Assn out of Olympia, Washington as part
 of the US Sailing/ CYA  system.

 ** **

 Rick Brass

 ** **

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt,
 Mike
 *Sent:* Wednesday, April 10, 2013 1:14 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List CC Sail numbering

 ** **

 Koobalibra CC 115 59115

  

 Prospector CC99 99095

  

 Model and hull number in each case ...

 ** **
  --

 *From:* CnC-List 
 [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 *On Behalf Of *Bob Hickson
 *Sent:* Wednesday, April 10, 2013 1:32 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List Sail numbering

 Most of the 29 Mark 1  and Mark 2 fleet use the 3 digit number from the
 hull ID number

 ** **

 ** **

 Ie hull number CCY29*693*D485 = sail number 693

 ** **

 If you email me off list with your contact info, I will add you to the
 list of 29 owners

 -  Your name, Boat Name, full hull number, hailing port, address,
 phone, email

 ** **

 Best regards,

 *Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA*

 *CC 29-2 Flying Colours*

 *Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club*

 *Pickering, ON*

 *(416) 919-2297*

 *bobhick...@rogers.com*

 * *

  __/) 

 ** **

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Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread Ken Heaton
We'll my number 54955 was issued by the Canadian Yachting Association
(CYA), now called Sail Canada so that's how they did it in my case.  It's
numbering fits into the scheme in the US Sailing website quoted elsewhere.

Ken H.

Sail Canada - 
www.­sailing.­cahttp://www.google.com/url?sa=Dq=http://www.sailing.ca/usg=AFQjCNGxhcv_783u80bpHer3niQ8O1XBBQ


On 10 April 2013 16:04, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:

 Maybe Canada does it based on the number of spiders on board?



  All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Websitehttp://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/

 On Apr 10, 2013, at 3:01 PM, Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
 wrote:

  Around here, the five digit numbers are issued by the CBYRA for racing,
 mine is 83346, with the 3 being identified with Chesapeake Bay.

 Or, I could use the CC 593 number, being the hull number of the boat.

 Our J-24 has a one design number of 1223 (old boat), as the new ones are
 in the 5000 range.

 Don't know how Canada does it.

 Gary
 St. Michaels

 _



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Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread dwight veinot
Sail is not big enough for more numbers

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Hickson
Sent: April 10, 2013 1:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sail numbering

 

Most of the 29 Mark 1  and Mark 2 fleet use the 3 digit number from the hull
ID number

 

 

Ie hull number CCY29693D485 = sail number 693

 

If you email me off list with your contact info, I will add you to the list
of 29 owners

-  Your name, Boat Name, full hull number, hailing port, address,
phone, email

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

CC 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

 mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 __/) 

 

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Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread dwight veinot
The number that came with the sails, all 12 of them, on my 35 MKII is 12699,
also a US number I believe.  Judging from all the gear and sails that came
with Alianna I would say someone had outfitted her pretty well for racing
before I got her.  It was not the previous owner so it's hard to find out
the history.

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: April 10, 2013 5:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

 

Touche's sail number, 10435, was issued by USYRU.  USYRU became USSA in
1991.  However, the numbering scheme was the same as Rick references below.

My previous boat, not being a racer, simply used the hull number, 297.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #84
Mandeville, LA

 

 


  _  


From: Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 1:06 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail numbering


In my experience, there are three ways to get a sail number:

1) Pick a number that you like that is less than 5 digits, and stick with
it. I've known a few people who elected to do this - but that was primarily
because they did not know that the sail numbers actually have a certain
logic to them.

2) Use you hull number, which you will find stamped in your transom, on your
title, on your registration or documentation, etc. Here is a link that
explains how to read the HIN for your boat:
http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.html The sail numbers on my 25
mk1 are 225. The HIN is CCY252250274, hence hull number 225.

3) Get an official North American sail number by the process used at US
Sailing and the Canadian Yachting Association. Go to
http://offshore.ussailing.org/Sail_Numbers.htm to look at the process.
Basically the numbers are issued by several regional authorities including
the Detroit River Yachting Assn., CBYRA, CYA, etc. The numbers are 5 digits
long and issued sequentially. The last 4 digits will tell you the region
where the number was issued, For example the 15202 on my 38 footer was
issued by DRYA when the boat eas first raced. Tom Sippel's 84033 came from
CYC.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Taylor
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 11:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sail numbering

I have a 1977 29 mk1, are the sail numbers the same as part of the hull
number or were the arbitrarily assigned. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Question

2013-04-10 Thread Robert Abbott
Background on the question..replaced the muffler and mixing elbow 
today.first time for me doing this job, second time for my mentor 
who assistedhe was the more experienced at these tasks, thank 
godgot to the last part of the job and ran into the old saying, 
there are no easy jobs. couldn't get the 2 hose to the muffler on 
the mixing elbow end the mixing elbow has a small 'lip' that is the 
challenge.went on easy over the lip on the new Vernalift 
mufflerworked on it until I called quit.put on liquid dish 
detergent  heat gun .put the hose in hot waterclose but 
close doesn't countcan't get enough leverage to push it up over the 
lip of the mixing elbowreally frustrating.


Before someone says do you have the correct hose sizeyes...2 hard 
wall marine hose came off. the same is going on.I had to cut the 
old one off on the mixing elbow side.


A smart guy, which I wasn't today, would have put the mixing elbow side 
hose on in the vice grip on the work bench and not when you are on your 
side in the engine compartment with little to no leverage. Mixing elbow 
is not coming off going back to the workbench to get his hose on even if 
I have to go to a slightly bigger hose.


I need some really innovative ideas to stretch the 2 hose to get it 
over the end of the mixing elbow. Don't tell me to use soap, heat, 
hot water.tried all of those today.I need a really innovative 
solution...


There is no problem that can't be overcome..help me please!

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread Rick Brass
12699 was a number issued by US Sailing (or the USYRU) - probably quite a
while ago because US Sailing numbers are up to the 60001-61259 range
currently. So the owner who got the number assigned  lived in the eastern
2/3 of the US, but not in the lake Huron area, nor near Chesapeake Bay.

 

Out of curiosity I may call US Sailing tomorrow and see if there is a way to
look up the boat or owner information on a sail number. I already know the
past owners if Imzadi, but it might be interesting to talk to the owner of
Frenzy II of the Whitby Yacht Club in Canada (one of the boats that was in
the 1978 Labatt's race along with mine; her sail number is still in the CYA
registry) to see if he has any recollections about that race.

 

Looking at the map of regional  groups that issue sail numbers causes me to
wonder just how many sail numbers get issued for Idaho and western Montana.
Curious minds want to know.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 5:27 PM
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

 

The number that came with the sails, all 12 of them, on my 35 MKII is 12699,
also a US number I believe.  Judging from all the gear and sails that came
with Alianna I would say someone had outfitted her pretty well for racing
before I got her.  It was not the previous owner so it's hard to find out
the history.

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Question

2013-04-10 Thread dwight veinot
Robert

Did you try taking it off the muffler end and attaching to mixing elbow end
first, still using detergent, heat etc.

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott
Sent: April 10, 2013 6:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Question

Background on the question..replaced the muffler and mixing elbow 
today.first time for me doing this job, second time for my mentor 
who assistedhe was the more experienced at these tasks, thank 
godgot to the last part of the job and ran into the old saying, 
there are no easy jobs. couldn't get the 2 hose to the muffler on 
the mixing elbow end the mixing elbow has a small 'lip' that is the 
challenge.went on easy over the lip on the new Vernalift 
mufflerworked on it until I called quit.put on liquid dish 
detergent  heat gun .put the hose in hot waterclose but 
close doesn't countcan't get enough leverage to push it up over the 
lip of the mixing elbowreally frustrating.

Before someone says do you have the correct hose sizeyes...2 hard 
wall marine hose came off. the same is going on.I had to cut the 
old one off on the mixing elbow side.

A smart guy, which I wasn't today, would have put the mixing elbow side 
hose on in the vice grip on the work bench and not when you are on your 
side in the engine compartment with little to no leverage. Mixing elbow 
is not coming off going back to the workbench to get his hose on even if 
I have to go to a slightly bigger hose.

I need some really innovative ideas to stretch the 2 hose to get it 
over the end of the mixing elbow. Don't tell me to use soap, heat, 
hot water.tried all of those today.I need a really innovative 
solution...

There is no problem that can't be overcome..help me please!

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread dwight veinot
I think you may be correct, she is an old boat, 1974 vintage.I think from
Long Island maybe or New York. Sag Harbour NY was on the stern when I found
her in Maine

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: April 10, 2013 7:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

 

12699 was a number issued by US Sailing (or the USYRU) - probably quite a
while ago because US Sailing numbers are up to the 60001-61259 range
currently. So the owner who got the number assigned  lived in the eastern
2/3 of the US, but not in the lake Huron area, nor near Chesapeake Bay.

 

Out of curiosity I may call US Sailing tomorrow and see if there is a way to
look up the boat or owner information on a sail number. I already know the
past owners if Imzadi, but it might be interesting to talk to the owner of
Frenzy II of the Whitby Yacht Club in Canada (one of the boats that was in
the 1978 Labatt's race along with mine; her sail number is still in the CYA
registry) to see if he has any recollections about that race.

 

Looking at the map of regional  groups that issue sail numbers causes me to
wonder just how many sail numbers get issued for Idaho and western Montana.
Curious minds want to know.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 5:27 PM
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

 

The number that came with the sails, all 12 of them, on my 35 MKII is 12699,
also a US number I believe.  Judging from all the gear and sails that came
with Alianna I would say someone had outfitted her pretty well for racing
before I got her.  It was not the previous owner so it's hard to find out
the history.

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

 

  _  

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Re: Stus-List Question

2013-04-10 Thread Persuasion

KY


Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott
Sent: April 10, 2013 6:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Question

Background on the question..replaced the muffler and mixing elbow 
today.first time for me doing this job, second time for my mentor 
who assistedhe was the more experienced at these tasks, thank 
godgot to the last part of the job and ran into the old saying, 
there are no easy jobs. couldn't get the 2 hose to the muffler on 
the mixing elbow end the mixing elbow has a small 'lip' that is the 
challenge.went on easy over the lip on the new Vernalift 
mufflerworked on it until I called quit.put on liquid dish 
detergent  heat gun .put the hose in hot waterclose but 
close doesn't countcan't get enough leverage to push it up over the 
lip of the mixing elbowreally frustrating.

Before someone says do you have the correct hose sizeyes...2 hard 
wall marine hose came off. the same is going on.I had to cut the 
old one off on the mixing elbow side.

A smart guy, which I wasn't today, would have put the mixing elbow side 
hose on in the vice grip on the work bench and not when you are on your 
side in the engine compartment with little to no leverage. Mixing elbow 
is not coming off going back to the workbench to get his hose on even if 
I have to go to a slightly bigger hose.

I need some really innovative ideas to stretch the 2 hose to get it 
over the end of the mixing elbow. Don't tell me to use soap, heat, 
hot water.tried all of those today.I need a really innovative 
solution...

There is no problem that can't be overcome..help me please!

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5736 - Release Date: 04/10/13


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Stus-List Fw: Question

2013-04-10 Thread Persuasion
KY


Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott
Sent: April 10, 2013 6:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Question

Background on the question..replaced the muffler and mixing elbow 
today.first time for me doing this job, second time for my mentor 
who assistedhe was the more experienced at these tasks, thank 
godgot to the last part of the job and ran into the old saying, 
there are no easy jobs. couldn't get the 2 hose to the muffler on 
the mixing elbow end the mixing elbow has a small 'lip' that is the 
challenge.went on easy over the lip on the new Vernalift 
mufflerworked on it until I called quit.put on liquid dish 
detergent  heat gun .put the hose in hot waterclose but 
close doesn't countcan't get enough leverage to push it up over the 
lip of the mixing elbowreally frustrating.

Before someone says do you have the correct hose sizeyes...2 hard 
wall marine hose came off. the same is going on.I had to cut the 
old one off on the mixing elbow side.

A smart guy, which I wasn't today, would have put the mixing elbow side 
hose on in the vice grip on the work bench and not when you are on your 
side in the engine compartment with little to no leverage. Mixing elbow 
is not coming off going back to the workbench to get his hose on even if 
I have to go to a slightly bigger hose.

I need some really innovative ideas to stretch the 2 hose to get it 
over the end of the mixing elbow. Don't tell me to use soap, heat, 
hot water.tried all of those today.I need a really innovative 
solution...

There is no problem that can't be overcome..help me please!

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5736 - Release Date: 04/10/13


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Re: Stus-List Fw: Question

2013-04-10 Thread dwight veinot
Kentucky what??

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Persuasion
Sent: April 10, 2013 8:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fw: Question

 

KY

 

 

Mike

S/V Persuasion

CC 37 Keel/CB

Long Sault

 

 

 

-Original Message-

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert

Abbott

Sent: April 10, 2013 6:35 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Stus-List Question

 

Background on the question..replaced the muffler and mixing elbow 

today.first time for me doing this job, second time for my mentor 

who assistedhe was the more experienced at these tasks, thank 

godgot to the last part of the job and ran into the old saying, 

there are no easy jobs. couldn't get the 2 hose to the muffler on 

the mixing elbow end the mixing elbow has a small 'lip' that is the 

challenge.went on easy over the lip on the new Vernalift 

mufflerworked on it until I called quit.put on liquid dish 

detergent  heat gun .put the hose in hot waterclose but 

close doesn't countcan't get enough leverage to push it up over the 

lip of the mixing elbowreally frustrating.

 

Before someone says do you have the correct hose sizeyes...2 hard 

wall marine hose came off. the same is going on.I had to cut the 

old one off on the mixing elbow side.

 

A smart guy, which I wasn't today, would have put the mixing elbow side 

hose on in the vice grip on the work bench and not when you are on your 

side in the engine compartment with little to no leverage. Mixing elbow 

is not coming off going back to the workbench to get his hose on even if 

I have to go to a slightly bigger hose.

 

I need some really innovative ideas to stretch the 2 hose to get it 

over the end of the mixing elbow. Don't tell me to use soap, heat, 

hot water.tried all of those today.I need a really innovative 

solution...

 

There is no problem that can't be overcome..help me please!

 

Bob Abbott

AZURA

CC 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.

 

 

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5736 - Release Date: 04/10/13

 

 

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Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5736 - Release Date: 04/10/13

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Re: Stus-List Question

2013-04-10 Thread dwight veinot
Agreed that was my next suggestion, especially if he can get the hose off
the muffler and out of the boat

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Nelson
Sent: April 10, 2013 8:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Question

 

Pipe expander used in muffler shops to flare pipe fittings might give you
enough stretch.  
Princess auto:$14.99
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8104416/Exhaust/Medium-Tail-Pipe-Exp
ander- Cheers, Jeff Nelson Senior Manager Halifax, NS Ph: 902-880-8243 On
10/04/2013 7:34 PM, dwight veinot wrote:

Robert
 
Did you try taking it off the muffler end and attaching to mixing elbow end
first, still using detergent, heat etc.
 
Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott
Sent: April 10, 2013 6:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Question
 
Background on the question..replaced the muffler and mixing elbow 
today.first time for me doing this job, second time for my mentor 
who assistedhe was the more experienced at these tasks, thank 
godgot to the last part of the job and ran into the old saying, 
there are no easy jobs. couldn't get the 2 hose to the muffler on 
the mixing elbow end the mixing elbow has a small 'lip' that is the 
challenge.went on easy over the lip on the new Vernalift 
mufflerworked on it until I called quit.put on liquid dish 
detergent  heat gun .put the hose in hot waterclose but 
close doesn't countcan't get enough leverage to push it up over the 
lip of the mixing elbowreally frustrating.
 
Before someone says do you have the correct hose sizeyes...2 hard 
wall marine hose came off. the same is going on.I had to cut the 
old one off on the mixing elbow side.
 
A smart guy, which I wasn't today, would have put the mixing elbow side 
hose on in the vice grip on the work bench and not when you are on your 
side in the engine compartment with little to no leverage. Mixing elbow 
is not coming off going back to the workbench to get his hose on even if 
I have to go to a slightly bigger hose.
 
I need some really innovative ideas to stretch the 2 hose to get it 
over the end of the mixing elbow. Don't tell me to use soap, heat, 
hot water.tried all of those today.I need a really innovative 
solution...
 
There is no problem that can't be overcome..help me please!
 
Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
 
 
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Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5736 - Release Date: 04/10/13
 
 
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-- 
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
CC 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5736 - Release Date: 04/10/13

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Re: Stus-List Sail numbering

2013-04-10 Thread Graham Collins

Yah, but that guy is an ...  wait, that's me!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11

On 2013-04-10 12:21 PM, Pierre Tremblay wrote:

Hi Paul,
I had this answer from sculpin on sailinganarchy when I was searching 
to change ownership of my sail number.
Quote: Sail number was assigned to the boat when it was sold, the 
first two are location identifiers. Totally separate from the HIN 
(hull identification number), which you will find on the transom, 
upper stbd. If you are racing you will want to register with the local 
sailing association, they will want your sail number (since it is hard 
to see the 5mm high VIN from the finish line!).


From an old post on there, here is an explanation of sail number 
assignment:
/First, go to: http://offshore.ussa...ail_Numbers.htm 
http://offshore.ussailing.org/Sail_Numbers.htm


Next, break your sail number into two parts, the first digit and the 
last four.
In Tim's case 8 4033. In the table on the site above, scroll down the 
first
column to the row with 8. Now scroll across in that row to the column 
with the
header block that contains the last four digits. 4033 falls in the 
4000-4250

block. At the intersection is CYA.

Sail number 84033 was issued by Canadian Yachting Association./
End of quote.
My sail number is 54988, which was issued by CYA
Pierre Tremblay
Avalanche, #54988
CC38-3 WK

*De :* Paul Taylor besom_ri...@yahoo.com
*À :* cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Envoyé le :* mercredi 10 avril 2013 11h05
*Objet :* Stus-List Sail numbering

I have a 1977 29 mk1, are the sail numbers the same as part of the
hull number or were the arbitrarily assigned.

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Defender delivery (and a plug for Nexus)

2013-04-10 Thread Wally Bryant

Well, all's well that ends well.

It is true that just about every purchase/registration agreement 
includes a provision for the manufacturer to provide refurbished 
hardware as new.  That has been true for decades.  Heck, if they had to 
burn every return, they would have to factor that into the business 
model and adjust the retail price accordingly, which would put them out 
of business because there's always someone ready to make an empty 
promise to take your money to make a 30/60/90 day objective.


Having done upgrades and additions to my Nexus NX-2 system, I (*years 
ago*) bought a 'multi-display' online and opened the pretty new box to 
find a beat up old NX-1 part inside.  NX-1 had been out of production 
for years... I called the reseller and expressed my dissatisfaction in 
brutal terms.  It's important to know when to shut up and listen, so I 
did, and as a result I received a brand new part.  I also received RMA 
instructions, but was so ticked off that I wanted a prepaid UPS voucher 
because I wasn't going to pay for the return.  Never got the voucher, 
but I kept the old part around for years just in case a Federal Marshall 
showed up with a subpoena.  VBG


Anyway, I did want to mention that my Nexus NX-2 system has performed 
flawlessly for ten years now.  I couldn't sail without it.


Wal

you wrote:

Well, They sent me out another unit it is exactly the same...  Except, now 
everything says TackTick instead of Raymarine...  If it wasn't for that, I'd 
have bet it was the same box of stuff... I don't what to say...  Why would they 
open the boxes...it does not make any sense to me... Is the fact that it now 
says TackTick mean anything...  It's just weird...  guess I'll stick with this 
and see if it works... Danny



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Stus-List got paint?

2013-04-10 Thread Graham Collins
Interesting find on the Interlux Paint website today, if you have bought 
bottom paint from them (as I have) you can get a mail-in rebate.


http://www.yachtpaint.com/LiteratureCentre/canada_mir_rebate_form_eng.pdf

or

http://www.yachtpaint.com/LiteratureCentre/US_MIR_Rebate_Form_HR.pdf

Now if I can find that receipt...

--
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11


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Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

2013-04-10 Thread sbrown
Lighting looked great Graham, even in the the daylight and could be bright 
enough for the main cabin. I may attempt to do an install once I get the bilge 
pumped straightened out.

Scott Brown
Breezin’
CC 35-III
Bedford, NS 

From: Graham Collins 
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 11:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

Jeff is correct, I did use those.  I used the 3 ft of the 120 LED/m to replace 
1 fluorescent in the ceiling.  I think it is very bright, but I may be 
biased...  Scott saw it in action though, what say you Scott - bright enough 
for the main cabin?

I'm sure that other suppliers would be cheaper, I was more looking for a quick 
trial so bought local.  E-bay is good...

I also stuck the LED strips on a hunk of stainless for heatsinking.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11On 2013-04-09 3:12 PM, Jeffrey Nelson wrote:

  Pretty sure Graham used these:
  http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?cat=3,70322p=70323


  On 04/09/13, Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@verizon.net wrote: 
!--[if !mso] style v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* 
{behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape 
{behavior:url(#default#VML);} /style ![endif]-- Fred, 

  Do you have a link to the LED’s you used?

   

  Bill Coleman

  CC 39 

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Fred Hazzard
  Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 12:46 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

   

  I put LED strips in place of fluorescents that were on the ceiling 
behind defusers.  I control them with wireless controllers that dim and turn 
them on and off.   The LED’s are very bright and being able to dim them 
improves the cabin ambiance a lot. 

   

  Fred Hazzard

  S/V Fury

  CC 44

  Portland, Or

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Graham Collins
  Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 5:03 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

   

  Switches.  I was going to add a dimmer, but have changed my mind.

Graham CollinsSecret PlansCC 35-III #11On 2013-04-05 10:00 AM, Joel Aronson 
wrote:

Are people adding in-line switches to the LED strips or just 
switching them at the breaker? 

 

Joel

35/3

The Office 

Annapolis

 

On Fri, Apr 5, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Michael Brown m...@tkg.ca wrote:

The white 3528 strips work well, good light output and low power.
I have them glued and tie wrapped to a strip of high density foam
board ( about 1/2 wide and 1/4 thick ) that is then screwed in
place. The plastic cover on the strip proved a bit difficult to 
glue.

Most of the strips have a power rating per meter, the ones I have
are  4.8 Watts / meter. They are also rated for 12V, but your boat
may have 13.2 to 14.2 volts depending on you charging system. The
LED are fairly sensitive to voltage and could be over driven.

Add a constant current driver, a LED dimmer (also available on eBay)
or a resistor in series. If you expect the highest voltage you will
have on the boat will be 14.5v, then the resistor will need to drop
2.5v at rated current.

The strips I used where a bit under 2/3 of a meter, used about 3.2W
at 12v so required 0.250 amps of current.

To drop 2.5v at 0.250 amps you need a 10 ohm resistor
( Resistance in ohms = Volts / Amps ).
The resistor will need to be rated for 0.625 watts so I used a
1 watt resistor ( about $0.20 from Sayal ).
( Power in Watts  = Amps squared * Resistance )

Adding the resistor will dim the LEDs slightly at 12V.

For longer strips where the power to the resistor  1 watt or
were you want the best lighting power a constant current source
is much better. Simple ones are only four components and cost
less than $10 in parts. The dimmers from China are only $8!

http://madscientisthut.com/wordpress/tag/led-current-control/


Mike
CC 30
Windburn




 Hi All.

 I just volunteered my boat for a test case using these LED strip 
lights that are available on ebay cheap out of china. I haven't seen them used 
on boats before. They are marketed as being waterproof. There are a few 
variations on the LED types with the two most common being SMD 5050 and SMD 
3528. The 5050 have triple LEDs so they can be made into any colour, they are 
also brighter 

Re: Stus-List Question

2013-04-10 Thread Robert Abbott

Dwight:

Tried both ends first with liquid detergent, heat gun, hot water, all at 
once..I wasn't kidding when I said who has got an innovative idea.   
Haven't been past yours and Rich's yet but Rich has an idea, angle grid 
the lip off the mixing elbow.the reason the lip is on it is to 
accidentally prevent the hose from slipping off.a safety 
thingwell let me assure everyone, when I get it on, it ain't 
accidentally coming off.


Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2013/04/10 7:34 PM, dwight veinot wrote:

Robert

Did you try taking it off the muffler end and attaching to mixing elbow end
first, still using detergent, heat etc.

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
  
-Original Message-

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott
Sent: April 10, 2013 6:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Question

Background on the question..replaced the muffler and mixing elbow
today.first time for me doing this job, second time for my mentor
who assistedhe was the more experienced at these tasks, thank
godgot to the last part of the job and ran into the old saying,
there are no easy jobs. couldn't get the 2 hose to the muffler on
the mixing elbow end the mixing elbow has a small 'lip' that is the
challenge.went on easy over the lip on the new Vernalift
mufflerworked on it until I called quit.put on liquid dish
detergent  heat gun .put the hose in hot waterclose but
close doesn't countcan't get enough leverage to push it up over the
lip of the mixing elbowreally frustrating.

Before someone says do you have the correct hose sizeyes...2 hard
wall marine hose came off. the same is going on.I had to cut the
old one off on the mixing elbow side.

A smart guy, which I wasn't today, would have put the mixing elbow side
hose on in the vice grip on the work bench and not when you are on your
side in the engine compartment with little to no leverage. Mixing elbow
is not coming off going back to the workbench to get his hose on even if
I have to go to a slightly bigger hose.

I need some really innovative ideas to stretch the 2 hose to get it
over the end of the mixing elbow. Don't tell me to use soap, heat,
hot water.tried all of those today.I need a really innovative
solution...

There is no problem that can't be overcome..help me please!

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5736 - Release Date: 04/10/13


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Stus-List Got paint

2013-04-10 Thread Robert Gallagher
Or you could buy Pettit SR40 / Horizon Pro from me at $85 a gallon.  And I
donate $5/gallon to help support this list. :)
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Stus-List Race video

2013-04-10 Thread Len Mitchell
Did anyone see the Blue Video from the Banderas Bay race/crash last
month? 

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8s2cCVEJh4feature=player_embedded

 

 

I would love to hear what a hard core race skipper thinks with 20/20
hindsight. Luff and dive? Blue was 5-10 seconds early. 

 

This is better than bottom paint and barnacles we still have some snow
to melt!

 

Len Mitchell 

Crazy Legs

Midland On.

CC 37+ 

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