Re: Stus-List Winterizing

[Jake Brodersen]

Josh,

 

Fogging diesels is very common up north.  It is the easiest way to coat the
cylinder walls.  The yard I used in Bay City had it down to a science.
Three guys would work on each boat.  One running the engine, one hold the
antifreeze hose to the intake port, and a third one next to the engine.  As
soon as the antifreeze came out the exhaust, they would spray the fogging
oil into the open intake and pull the stop lever.  Winterized the engine in
less than a minute.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley
Sent: Friday, November 29, 2013 9:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing

 

I should have clarified that prelubing does not put oil in/on the cylinders
it simply pressurizes the oil header and gets it to the bearings.  Some of
the industrial diesels have nozzels that direct bearing lube oil to the
bottom of the cylinders.  I believe we all have to rely on splash to
lubricate the walls of our engine cylinders.  In gasoline engines I am
familiar with fogging oil in the intake to coat the walls enough to
lubricate the dry cylinder for starting in the spring and prevent corrosion
during the winter.  I am curious if the practice of putting diesel or oil in
the intake isn't attempting to achieve the same thing.

Josh Muckley 

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Re: Stus-List ATF and Acetonel

[Jake Brodersen]

I'm with you Josh.  In the old days ATF worked for both, but now power
steering fluid is formulated separately.  They are no longer
interchangeable.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley
Sent: Friday, November 29, 2013 11:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List ATF and Acetonel

 

Not to get nit picky but even though many power steering applications call
for PS or ATF, the two are not the same.

On Nov 29, 2013 11:36 AM, "Joel Aronson"  wrote:

Power steering fluid is ATF!  I ended up strripping the screw head when I
tried to remove the stainless screw, but was able to use a screw extractor.
Cheaper than the machine shop!

 

Joel

35/3

annapolis



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Stus-List Hull numbers for other 35 MkII boats Another serial no. found

[Joseph Sisson]

Hi Alex and Dewight,

My 1975 C&C 35 MKII is hull #350.
It is my understanding that she was the second last 35 MKII off the line.
Her serial number is ZCC353500675.

Cheers,
Joseph Sisson
Silent Runner


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Re: Stus-List Hull numbers for other 35 MkII boats Another serial no. found

[dwight veinot]

Thanks Joseph

Where are you located?  I don't know of any 35 MKII that is younger than
yours and there is only one so I am curious about what may be different
between yours and mine. I don't think any 2 boats were exactly the same and
I think the company probably made changes for improvement as the production
run went along.

I note that your boat has a ZCC designation.  When and if I get more boats
on the list I might be able to focus in better on when the company started
using that designation instead of CCY for boats built in Canada and if in
fact there was any exact changeover point at all, but it seems the
changeover happened for the 35 MKII's years before the Rhode Island
facility opened in 1976. I have one ZZC on the list, hull number 252, that
was built in 0374, just ten boats after mine (hull number 242) whcih has a
CCY designation.

I will distribute the list that I am compiling to everyone on it a little
later when there will ho[efully be more boats on it, yours makes 7 so far.
  I think there are a few more MKII owners who contribute on Stu's list.

Dwight Veinot
Alianna
C&C 35 MKII
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS


On Sat, Nov 30, 2013 at 9:13 AM, Joseph Sisson wrote:

> Hi Alex and Dewight,
>
> My 1975 C&C 35 MKII is hull #350.
> It is my understanding that she was the second last 35 MKII off the line.
> Her serial number is ZCC353500675.
>
> Cheers,
> Joseph Sisson
> Silent Runner
>
>
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>
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Stus-List 35-3 traveler

[Howard and Skippy]

I am replacing the traveler on my 35-3 with a large sheave Garhauer 
fully ball bearing 5:1 unit.  My Harken ball bearing car traveler is now 
available.  I upgraded it to 6:1 and also strengthened it by mounting it 
on a stainless square tube to eliminate the flexing I was experiencing 
with it.  It comes with the aluminum sub channel as well as all lines.  
If interested, I will send pictures and we can settle on a more than 
reasonable cost.

Howard Paul  Skipper of Knot Again

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Stus-List Winterizing

[Ken Rodmell]

Rick

Thanks so much for the information. I guess I was lucky to get away with my
oil in the air intake without creating hydraulic lock. From now on no more
oil ...this spring it¹s fogging spray only.

As you recall I asked for advice from someone with more knowledge than me
and your excellent explanation was exactly what I needed to hear. I hope
other listers will take heed too.

I guess we¹re never too old to learn something new.

Thanks again.

Ken Rodmell
Lotus
C&C Mk II toronto
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing

[dwight veinot]

Ken

What C&C MKII do you have?

So I guess I won't be putting any oil in the air intake come spring, never
did that before anyway...diesel fuel seems quite 'oily" on its own, I think
someone pointed that out already

Dwight Veinot
Alianna
C&C 35 MKII
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS


On Sat, Nov 30, 2013 at 10:56 AM, Ken Rodmell  wrote:

>  Rick
>
> Thanks so much for the information. I guess I was lucky to get away with
> my oil in the air intake without creating hydraulic lock. From now on no
> more oil ...this spring it’s fogging spray only.
>
> As you recall I asked for advice from someone with more knowledge than me
> and your excellent explanation was exactly what I needed to hear. I hope
> other listers will take heed too.
>
> I guess we’re never too old to learn something new.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Ken Rodmell
> Lotus
> C&C Mk II toronto
>
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Stus-List Hull Numbers vs build site & date

[Bob Hickson]

I have accumulated a list of 51 C&C 29's both mark 1 and mark 2.

Thought I could offer some insights into the HIN discussion.

 

According to the US Coast Guard the following designations were used for C&C
(I did not investigate prior to 1974)

-  CCY assigned to Middletown, RI from April 13 / 78 to November 6 /
85 when the plant closed

-  CCY assigned to the C&C custom plant in Oakville, Ontario from
April 1 / 83 to 

-  ZCC assigned to Niagara on the Lake, Ontario from December 12 /
74 to ?

The Oakville plant was mostly custom built boats but I believe that they did
do some "finishing work" on some production boats

 

I DO NOT BELIEVE THAT THIS INFORMATION IS ACCURATE

Based on known hull numbers and discussion on the list, I believe the
following is closer to the truth.

-  Prior to February 1976  - CCY used by Niagara on the Lake

-  After February 1976 - ZCC used by Niagara on the Lake

-  Between February 1976 and November 1985 - CCY used by Middletown,
RI (plant closed in November 1985)

 

The following may shed some light on the way C&C assigned HIN numbers

 

C&C 29 mark 1

-  ZCCxx006 - July 76 - built in Niagara

-  ZCCxx127 - June 77 - built in Niagara

-  CCYxx504 - October 76 - built in Rhode Island

-  CCYxx693 - December 77 - built in Rhode Island

-  Stopped production in 1982

 

C&C 29 mark 2

-  Started production in 1982

-  ZCCxx201 - August 1982 - built in Niagara 

NOTE that they started numbering the mark 2 at number 201 and there are mark
1's and mark 2's with the same hull number (manufacture dates will be
different) 

-  ZCCxx507 - August 1985 - built in Niagara

-  CCYxx693 - April 1984 - built in RI (this is my boat)

-  CCYxx702 - August 1985 - built in RI

-  Based on the hull numbers, 29 mark 2's were being built /
finished in both plants at the same time?

-  I doubt that there were 2 sets of moulds so I assume that the
moulds were transferred from Niagara to RI sometime in 1984 with some
"inventory hulls" in Niagara finished after the moulds were transferred (eg
hull 507)

 

I do not know how the 35's were numbered. If they used the same system that
they did on the 29's then 35 mark 2 boats would have HIN numbers starting at
200 or 201.

Bear in mind that the 29-1 and 29-2 were totally different hull designs and
moulds ... not just a redesign.

-  C&C 29 mark 1  - 613 + boats built

-  C&C 29 mark 2 - 407+ boats built

 

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

C&C 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

  bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 __/) 

 

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Stus-List A Joyous C&C Holiday Season To All

[Edd Schillay]

Listers,

Just wanted to drop a line to wish you all a joyous holiday season 
along with a happy and healthy (and breezy) New Year.

I’m tremendously thankful to Stu for putting the list and website 
together, and all of you for your advice, humor and camaraderie. 

http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/2013/11/captains-log-stardate-11391.html
(My year-end blog entry)


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




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Re: Stus-List Hull Numbers vs build site & date

[Mark G]

I'll repost this regarding the 25...I've always been curious about how many 
25's were made, Mk1 and Mk2, and how many in each model year.  I've seen Mk1's 
from 1972 to 1977, and Mk2's from 1980 to 1984.  So whenever I see a HIN, I 
write it down.  I have a list of a few dozen of them.  For the 25, the 
1972-1974 boats are all CCY and the 1976-1984 boats are all ZCC.  The boats 
which the owners identify as '75s are a mix of both, with the earlier hull 
numbers being CCY and the later being ZCC.  But all boats with "75" at the end 
of the hull number are ZCC.

Mark
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 traveler

[Jake Brodersen]

Howard,

This sounds like a good upgrade.  I'd love to see pictures of your project
when it's done.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton Va





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Howard
and Skippy
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 9:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 traveler

I am replacing the traveler on my 35-3 with a large sheave Garhauer fully
ball bearing 5:1 unit.  My Harken ball bearing car traveler is now
available.  I upgraded it to 6:1 and also strengthened it by mounting it on
a stainless square tube to eliminate the flexing I was experiencing with it.
It comes with the aluminum sub channel as well as all lines.  
If interested, I will send pictures and we can settle on a more than
reasonable cost.
Howard Paul  Skipper of Knot Again

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing

[Rick Brass]

Ken;

 

It's not likely that liquid lube oil poured into the intake would cause
hydraulic lock because it is unlikely that any of it would actually get into
the cylinders unless you used a whole lot of it. Most would end up coating
the bottom of the manifold. In all probability it would eventually vaporize
when the manifold gets hot and burn up during normal combustion.

 

Fogging oil will work a lot better for what you want to accomplish.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Rodmell
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 9:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Winterizing

 

Rick

Thanks so much for the information. I guess I was lucky to get away with my
oil in the air intake without creating hydraulic lock. From now on no more
oil ...this spring it's fogging spray only.

As you recall I asked for advice from someone with more knowledge than me
and your excellent explanation was exactly what I needed to hear. I hope
other listers will take heed too.

I guess we're never too old to learn something new.

Thanks again.

Ken Rodmell
Lotus
C&C Mk II toronto 

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Re: Stus-List Hull Numbers vs build site & date

[Rick Taillieu]

Mark,

My serial number starts with CCY and the hull was laid down 11/74.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25
#371



I'll re-post this regarding the 25...

I've always been curious about how many 25's were made, Mk1 and Mk2, and how 
many in each model year. I've seen Mk1's from 1972 to 1977, and Mk2's from 1980 
to 1984. So whenever I see a HIN, I write it down. I have a list of a few dozen 
of them. For the 25, the 1972-1974 boats are all CCY and the 1976-1984 boats 
are all ZCC. The boats which the owners identify as '75s are a mix of both, 
with the earlier hull numbers being CCY and the later being ZCC. But all boats 
with "75" at the end of the hull number are ZCC.
 Mark
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing

[Rick Brass]

Dwight;

 

Diesel fuel doesn't actually have much value as a lubricant. If you are ever
so unfortunate as to have to keep your hands immersed in a pan of it (as
when you rebuild a rotary injection pump0 you will notice that it actually
feels like an astringent. Most of the lubricity used to come from the
sulphur in the fuel, and almost all of that is gone from ULS diesel you
purchase today.

 

That's why most engine manufacturers encourage adding lubricating additives
(Stanadyne is most common, Lucas is also recommended) to fuel used in
pre-ULS engines. Say 2007-2010 emissions compliant engines depending on size
and country.

 

Fogging in the spring really doesn't accomplish much - a better practice
would be to do it at layup if you do it at all -  unless you want an extra
shot of combustible oil to help get the cold Yanmar started. This isn't
uncommon on Yanmar engines, we used to need to do it all the time on the 4
cylinder Yanmars used in forklifts in cooler climates. But most of the
diesel mechanics I've know over the years use WD40 for that. (Not to start
another discussion, but the common opinion among industrial diesel techs
seems to be that starting fluid is about the only application WD40 is good
for.)

 

Rick Brass

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 11:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing

 

Ken

What C&C MKII do you have?

So I guess I won't be putting any oil in the air intake come spring, never
did that before anyway...diesel fuel seems quite 'oily" on its own, I think
someone pointed that out already




Dwight Veinot

Alianna 
C&C 35 MKII

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Autohelm Auto pilot

[Frederick G Street]

Fred — if you’re in a position to get a new autopilot course computer, I’d 
recommend it.  The new ones from Raymarine are nice; I can price you one at my 
cost, if you’d like.  You’ll also need to get a new control head, as the older 
ones don’t have the functionality to program the new course computers.

Otherwise, there’s a guy in Colorado who just did a repair on a 300 course 
computer for an acquaintance of mine; a couple hundred bucks, and now the drive 
transistors are working again.  I’ll try to get his contact info for you.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Nov 29, 2013, at 10:25 AM, Fred Hazzard  wrote:

> One of the casualties on my recent cruise to Mexico is the brain for my 
> Autohelm st 6000.   It is the 300 series from the mid 90’s.   So if any of 
> know of system that was removed and a working brain still exist I am in the 
> market.   Or if any you know of a company that may have removed a system to 
> upgrade to a newer system I’d appreciate any advice you have.
>  
> Thanks
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury

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Stus-List A General Question

[TOM VINCENT]

In the spring of 1975 I purchased a new C&C 30 from Havre de Grace Marina in 
Maryland. It had a beautiful chocolate hull with a cameo deck. My understanding 
from the dealer is the boat was in a boat show in either Toronto or Montreal 
Canada. It was loaded with extra gear for the show. I have no records of the 
boat, all were lost over the years in a series of moving. I had named the boat 
FUSTY, this was the name of the 1st racing boat my father had bought in 1950. I 
raced it for 10 years in two classes, AU and Bu - for those of you that go back 
that far you might know the class of each. The marina was sold last year and 
the new owner cleaned house of the old sales records. My question to the group, 
how can I find out more information about the boat. This is not an urgent need, 
it falls more into the trivia area.

Tom
Frolic II, 36' cb
Chesapeake City, MD
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing

[dwight veinot]

Rick

What is fogging oil?  I know its sold under that name even at  Canadian
Tire in Canada but I am wondering what makes it different from any lube oil
that is applied as a fine mist, I think you called it "atomized"

Dwight Veinot
Alianna
C&C 35 MKII
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS


On Sat, Nov 30, 2013 at 2:56 PM, Rick Brass  wrote:

> Dwight;
>
>
>
> Diesel fuel doesn’t actually have much value as a lubricant. If you are
> ever so unfortunate as to have to keep your hands immersed in a pan of it
> (as when you rebuild a rotary injection pump0 you will notice that it
> actually feels like an astringent. Most of the lubricity used to come from
> the sulphur in the fuel, and almost all of that is gone from ULS diesel you
> purchase today.
>
>
>
> That’s why most engine manufacturers encourage adding lubricating
> additives (Stanadyne is most common, Lucas is also recommended) to fuel
> used in pre-ULS engines. Say 2007-2010 emissions compliant engines
> depending on size and country.
>
>
>
> Fogging in the spring really doesn’t accomplish much – a better practice
> would be to do it at layup if you do it at all -  unless you want an extra
> shot of combustible oil to help get the cold Yanmar started. This isn’t
> uncommon on Yanmar engines, we used to need to do it all the time on the 4
> cylinder Yanmars used in forklifts in cooler climates. But most of the
> diesel mechanics I’ve know over the years use WD40 for that. (Not to start
> another discussion, but the common opinion among industrial diesel techs
> seems to be that starting fluid is about the only application WD40 is good
> for.)
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *dwight
> veinot
> *Sent:* Saturday, November 30, 2013 11:19 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing
>
>
>
> Ken
>
> What C&C MKII do you have?
>
> So I guess I won't be putting any oil in the air intake come spring, never
> did that before anyway...diesel fuel seems quite 'oily" on its own, I think
> someone pointed that out already
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> Alianna
> C&C 35 MKII
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Hull Numbers vs build site & date

[dwight veinot]

-"  ZCC assigned to Niagara on the Lake, Ontario from December 12 /
74 to "

ZCC352520374 is a 35 MKII Mar 1974


I think the 35 MKII's were built at NOTL and the second last 35MKII rolled
out in 06/75...point is there are 35MKII's out there with ZCC designation
as early as Mar 1974


Maybe doesn't matter much to our owners, "we got what we got" but it's sort
of like a new puzzle about the 35 MKII for me right now.


The HIN discussion was not my main intention.  I was hoping to get a list
of 35 MKII owners who would be interested in sharing specifics about their
boats including performance related stuff like rig set up and tune...For
example I try to get Alianna to do what the polar diagrams predict, a lot
of us want a fast boat racing or not. I would also like us to share some
photos showing how we have our boats set up for cruising comfort.



Dwight Veinot
Alianna
C&C 35 MKII
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS


On Sat, Nov 30, 2013 at 12:43 PM, Bob Hickson  wrote:

> I have accumulated a list of 51 C&C 29’s both mark 1 and mark 2.
>
> Thought I could offer some insights into the HIN discussion.
>
>
>
> According to the US Coast Guard the following designations were used for
> C&C (I did not investigate prior to 1974)
>
> -  CCY assigned to Middletown, RI from April 13 / 78 to November
> 6 / 85 when the plant closed
>
> -  CCY assigned to the C&C custom plant in Oakville, Ontario from
> April 1 / 83 to 
>
> -  ZCC assigned to Niagara on the Lake, Ontario from December 12
> / 74 to ?
>
> The Oakville plant was mostly custom built boats but I believe that they
> did do some “finishing work” on some production boats
>
>
>
> I DO NOT BELIEVE THAT THIS INFORMATION IS ACCURATE
>
> Based on known hull numbers and discussion on the list, I believe the
> following is closer to the truth.
>
> -  Prior to February 1976  - CCY used by Niagara on the Lake
>
> -  After February 1976 – ZCC used by Niagara on the Lake
>
> -  Between February 1976 and November 1985 – CCY used by
> Middletown, RI (plant closed in November 1985)
>
>
>
> The following may shed some light on the way C&C assigned HIN numbers
>
>
>
> C&C 29 mark 1
>
> -  ZCCxx006 – July 76 – built in Niagara
>
> -  ZCCxx127 – June 77 – built in Niagara
>
> -  CCYxx504 – October 76 – built in Rhode Island
>
> -  CCYxx693 – December 77 – built in Rhode Island
>
> -  Stopped production in 1982
>
>
>
> C&C 29 mark 2
>
> -  Started production in 1982
>
> -  ZCCxx201 – August 1982 – built in Niagara
>
> NOTE that they started numbering the mark 2 at number 201 and there are
> mark 1’s and mark 2’s with the same hull number (manufacture dates will be
> different)
>
> -  ZCCxx507 – August 1985 – built in Niagara
>
> -  CCYxx693 – April 1984 – built in RI (this is my boat)
>
> -  CCYxx702 – August 1985 – built in RI
>
> -  Based on the hull numbers, 29 mark 2’s were being built /
> finished in both plants at the same time?
>
> -  I doubt that there were 2 sets of moulds so I assume that the
> moulds were transferred from Niagara to RI sometime in 1984 with some
> “inventory hulls” in Niagara finished after the moulds were transferred (eg
> hull 507)
>
>
>
> I do not know how the 35’s were numbered. If they used the same system
> that they did on the 29’s then 35 mark 2 boats would have HIN numbers
> starting at 200 or 201.
>
> Bear in mind that the 29-1 and 29-2 were totally different hull designs
> and moulds ... not just a redesign.
>
> -  C&C 29 mark 1  - 613 + boats built
>
> -  C&C 29 mark 2 – 407+ boats built
>
>
>
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> *Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA*
>
> *C&C 29-2 Flying Colours*
>
> *Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club*
>
> *Pickering, ON*
>
> *(416) 919-2297 <%28416%29%20919-2297>*
>
> *bobhick...@rogers.com *
>
>
>
>  __/) 
>
>
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 traveler

[Indigo]

I would appreciate a picture and an idea of what you would want for it. Curious 
as to why you see the need to switch out from the Harken?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Nov 30, 2013, at 9:47, Howard and Skippy  wrote:

> I am replacing the traveler on my 35-3 with a large sheave Garhauer fully 
> ball bearing 5:1 unit.  My Harken ball bearing car traveler is now available. 
>  I upgraded it to 6:1 and also strengthened it by mounting it on a stainless 
> square tube to eliminate the flexing I was experiencing with it.  It comes 
> with the aluminum sub channel as well as all lines.  If interested, I will 
> send pictures and we can settle on a more than reasonable cost.
> Howard Paul  Skipper of Knot Again
> 
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Stus-List Please remove me from the list

[Terry]

Stu, please remove me from the C&C list.

Terry Johnson
S/V Ozymandias
E-mail: tj...@comcast.net
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Re: Stus-List A General Question

[niall buckley]

Tom,
Did you receive the bowsprit photos ?


On Sat, Nov 30, 2013 at 3:20 PM, TOM VINCENT  wrote:

> In the spring of 1975 I purchased a new C&C 30 from Havre de Grace Marina
> in Maryland. It had a beautiful chocolate hull with a cameo deck. My
> understanding from the dealer is the boat was in a boat show in either
> Toronto or Montreal Canada. It was loaded with extra gear for the show. I
> have no records of the boat, all were lost over the years in a series of
> moving. I had named the boat FUSTY, this was the name of the 1st racing
> boat my father had bought in 1950. I raced it for 10 years in two classes,
> AU and Bu - for those of you that go back that far you might know the class
> of each. The marina was sold last year and the new owner cleaned house of
> the old sales records. My question to the group, how can I find out more
> information about the boat. This is not an urgent need, it falls more into
> the trivia area.
>
> Tom
> Frolic II, 36' cb
> Chesapeake City, MD
>
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Re: Stus-List Autohelm Auto pilot

[Fred Hazzard]

Fred,

 

Thanks your offers of help with the auto pilot.   Please send me price to
replace with newer brain and control head.   I would also appreciate any
info you can give about how to hook up the old parts to the new unit.

 

I would also like to speak with the Colorado man about possible repairs.

 

 

Thanks

 

Fred Hazzard

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 11:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm Auto pilot

 

Fred - if you're in a position to get a new autopilot course computer, I'd
recommend it.  The new ones from Raymarine are nice; I can price you one at
my cost, if you'd like.  You'll also need to get a new control head, as the
older ones don't have the functionality to program the new course computers.

 

Otherwise, there's a guy in Colorado who just did a repair on a 300 course
computer for an acquaintance of mine; a couple hundred bucks, and now the
drive transistors are working again.  I'll try to get his contact info for
you.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Nov 29, 2013, at 10:25 AM, Fred Hazzard 
wrote:





One of the casualties on my recent cruise to Mexico is the brain for my
Autohelm st 6000.   It is the 300 series from the mid 90's.   So if any of
know of system that was removed and a working brain still exist I am in the
market.   Or if any you know of a company that may have removed a system to
upgrade to a newer system I'd appreciate any advice you have.

 

Thanks

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

 

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Re: Stus-List FW: vacation

[Fred Hazzard]

Russ:

 

I am told the Baja doesn't calm down till July/Aug.  My insurance co. says I
need be out of Mexico by June and ahead of the hurricane season. My plan is
to allow plenty of time to make the delivery to San Diego.  Friends of mine
often will wait out the heavy afternoon weather till the middle of the
night.  Another issue will be fuel.   I will need enough to go 450 miles
before refueling. My tanks are good for 350.  Four 5 gal. jerry jugs should
do it.

 

Fred

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ &
Melody
Sent: Friday, November 29, 2013 8:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List FW: vacation

 

Hi Fred,

That sound really good. 

I recently spent an evening presentation with the local Blue Water Carousing
associasses regarding a trip back, up coast. The couple took the time and
harbour-hopped back to B.C. inna 37' Ericson or something like that. 

I know from racing on a C&C 45 that going to weather in anything under 20
knots is mostly pleasant. Like I expect the coast to be if you're early in
the season, before June/July when things really heat up. (When does the Baja
really heat up?)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 08:16 AM 29/11/2013, you wrote:




Thanks Russ.  It is good to be back after spending 6 weeks at sea.   The
cruise was delivery from Portland, Or to San Diego.  About 1100 miles.   We
then participated with about 130 other boats in the Baja Ha Ha  rally to
Cabo San Lucas.  About 850 miles. We were fortunate enough to win our class.
>From there we cruised around the tip of the Baja to La Paz.   Another 150
miles.  So after about 2100 miles Fury is safely moored in La Paz.   I
expect to go back to La Paz in Feb./Mar. to cruise with my family.   In
March we will be cruising to Puerto Villarta  where will participate in the
cruisers Banderas Bay regatta.  After that we will cruise back to La Paz.
In late April the plan is to begin the delivery cruise back to Portland.
Because of the notorious northwest winds known as the Baja bash many of my
friends are recommending that we sail home via Hawaii.   Not sure about
that, as it is 2000 miles longer.
 
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, OR
 
From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
 ] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody
Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2013 8:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List FW: vacation
 
Welcome back Fred.

We missed you.

I hope you had a pleasant cruise.

Cheers, Russ


At 05:09 AM 28/11/2013, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary="=_NextPart_000_0001_01CEEBF8.0F2F06C0"
Content-Language: en-us

Stu:  I am back from by cruise.  Please restore me to the list.
 
Thanks
 
Fred Hazzard
 
S/V Fury
Portland, Or
 
From: Fred Hazzard [ mailto:fredhazz...@spiritone.com] 
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2013 10:43 AM
To: 'Stu'
Subject: vacation 
 
Stu, please put me on hold for receiving  forum emails.   As I mentioned
earlier I am leaving for Mexico and will be out of touch for the next 6
weeks.
 
Thanks
 
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, OR
 
PS:  When the decals arrive I will have one of my crew members who are
meeting  me in San Diego bring them to me.
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Re: Stus-List Autohelm Auto pilot

[Frederick G Street]

Fred — can you get me the model number of the linear drive in your boat (I’m 
assuming it’s linear…)?  Specs on the website show the displacement of the 
C&C44 at 20,000 lbs; the drive you’ve got will determine whether you’ll need 
the Raymarine ACU-200 or ACU-400 course computer.  The Type 1 drives (which 
would require the ACU-200) are generally rated to 24,000 lbs displacement, 
which is right on the edge for your boat; if you have a Type 2, you’ll need the 
more powerful ACU-400 to drive it.

The control head in either case will be the p70; that and the heading sensor 
connect to the ACU via SeaTalkNG (Raymarine’s NMEA2000 variant), so some 
SeaTalk cabling will be needed.

You should be able to reuse the cabling you have now between the course 
computer and the drive, as well as the power supply from the breaker panel to 
the course computer.  You’ll need to change the cabling between the computer 
and the control head, and extend that SeatalkNG bus to the heading sensor.  
Overall, it would be a pretty simple change-out.

Does your autopilot system currently connect to any other instruments via 
SeaTalk?

I’ll try to get you contact info on the repair guy next week.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Nov 30, 2013, at 5:23 PM, Fred Hazzard  wrote:

> Fred,
>  
> Thanks your offers of help with the auto pilot.   Please send me price to 
> replace with newer brain and control head.   I would also appreciate any info 
> you can give about how to hook up the old parts to the new unit.
>  
> I would also like to speak with the Colorado man about possible repairs.
>  
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Fred Hazzard

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Re: Stus-List Baha Bash

[Wally Bryant]

Fred -

I left this in my drafts folder for a few days, but since other folks 
are giving advice I'll give you my two cents worth.


I'd wait until June if you can afford the time.  That's the start of 
Hurricane season, it's true, but they almost always stay way south at 
the start of the season.  Southerly breezes kick in, though, so you can 
find windows when the NW breezes die down and you might actually get a 
breeze at your back.  In April you're liable to get 15K on the nose or 
dead calm.  In June you can actually find windows with wind at your back 
and a southerly swell.


Wal


Fred Hazzard wrote:

In late April the plan is to begin the delivery cruise back to Portland.
Because of the notorious northwest winds known as the Baja bash many of my
friends are recommending that we sail home via Hawaii.   Not sure about
that, as it is 2000 miles longer.



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Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

[John Russo]

I am looking for a vintage 1984 or later Barient #10 winch to match the
mainsheet winch on my 1984 C&C 32 located on my cabin top port side. I
intend to use the 2nd winch  on the starboard cabin top aft of the traveler.
I had a 2nd or 3rd hand Barient #10P there which did not do the job. It is
for multipurpose use to be positioned aft of a Lewmar triple clutch for my
main halyard , outhaul, and Vang.

 

The #10 that I have on the Port cabin top measures 4&3/8 at the base and is
3&3/4 tall. It is greyish-Maroon in color and I assume Aluminum as the 1984
-32 spec calls that out. I have checked out Ebay and there are some #10's
listed but none with the above dimensions or AL.

 

Any suggestions as to where I can find one?

 

Thanks 

 

John

Arpeggio

Norwalk CT 

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Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

[Joel Aronson]

There is one on EBay.

Joel

On Saturday, November 30, 2013, John Russo wrote:

> I am looking for a vintage 1984 or later Barient #10 winch to match the
> mainsheet winch on my 1984 C&C 32 located on my cabin top port side. I
> intend to use the 2nd winch  on the starboard cabin top aft of the
> traveler. I had a 2nd or 3rd hand Barient #10P there which did not do the
> job. It is for multipurpose use to be positioned aft of a Lewmar triple
> clutch for my main halyard , outhaul, and Vang.
>
>
>
> The #10 that I have on the Port cabin top measures 4&3/8 at the base and
> is 3&3/4 tall. It is greyish-Maroon in color and I assume Aluminum as the
> 1984 -32 spec calls that out. I have checked out Ebay and there are some
> #10’s listed but none with the above dimensions or AL.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions as to where I can find one?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> John
>
> Arpeggio
>
> Norwalk CT
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

[John Russo]

Thanks Joel,

 

The one that I though was the best  match on E-bay from sailboat parts guy
is only 4 inch dia. Which I learned upon asking. I'll keep looking.

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 8:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

 

There is one on EBay. 

 

Joel

On Saturday, November 30, 2013, John Russo wrote:

I am looking for a vintage 1984 or later Barient #10 winch to match the
mainsheet winch on my 1984 C&C 32 located on my cabin top port side. I
intend to use the 2nd winch  on the starboard cabin top aft of the traveler.
I had a 2nd or 3rd hand Barient #10P there which did not do the job. It is
for multipurpose use to be positioned aft of a Lewmar triple clutch for my
main halyard , outhaul, and Vang.

 

The #10 that I have on the Port cabin top measures 4&3/8 at the base and is
3&3/4 tall. It is greyish-Maroon in color and I assume Aluminum as the 1984
-32 spec calls that out. I have checked out Ebay and there are some #10's
listed but none with the above dimensions or AL.

 

Any suggestions as to where I can find one?

 

Thanks 

 

John

Arpeggio

Norwalk CT 



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

[Joel Aronson]

Try BAcon in Annapolis.

On Saturday, November 30, 2013, John Russo wrote:

> Thanks Joel,
>
>
>
> The one that I though was the best  match on E-bay from sailboat parts guy
> is only 4 inch dia. Which I learned upon asking. I’ll keep looking.
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com  'cvml', 'cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com');>] *On Behalf Of *Joel Aronson
> *Sent:* Saturday, November 30, 2013 8:37 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com  'cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch
>
>
>
> There is one on EBay.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
> On Saturday, November 30, 2013, John Russo wrote:
>
> I am looking for a vintage 1984 or later Barient #10 winch to match the
> mainsheet winch on my 1984 C&C 32 located on my cabin top port side. I
> intend to use the 2nd winch  on the starboard cabin top aft of the
> traveler. I had a 2nd or 3rd hand Barient #10P there which did not do the
> job. It is for multipurpose use to be positioned aft of a Lewmar triple
> clutch for my main halyard , outhaul, and Vang.
>
>
>
> The #10 that I have on the Port cabin top measures 4&3/8 at the base and
> is 3&3/4 tall. It is greyish-Maroon in color and I assume Aluminum as the
> 1984 -32 spec calls that out. I have checked out Ebay and there are some
> #10’s listed but none with the above dimensions or AL.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions as to where I can find one?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> John
>
> Arpeggio
>
> Norwalk CT
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 traveler

[Alan Bergen]

I replaced my Schaeffer traveler with a Harken traveler, many years ago. I kept 
the aluminum channel, and used a high beam track. I only have a 4:1 purchase, 
and no complaints from the crew. The crew needed to use a winch to move the 
Schaeffer traveler. No flexing observed with the new arrangement. If you still 
have the Schaeffer traveler on your boat, I recommend the Harken as a good 
replacement. 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 
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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[Aaron Rouhi]

I won't even come close to have as much experience as many of you guys here but 
I still remember to loosen the topping lift! ;)
I received a lot of great feedback here so here a bit more background on the 
weather helm situation:
My 30-1's weather helm is in no way a major issue. I guess it all comes back to 
my personal preference for less pressure on the helm. I also like to sail with 
least amount of heel possible especially when Admiral is onboard. Overtime, I 
have noticed that if I reef early and move the traveler to leeward, I can 
reduce both weather helm and heel angle tremendously. Without that, the boat 
has much more weather helm and heel but in no way she feels 'out of control' or 
un-manageable. It handles well in heavy conditions regardless. I haven't had 
the opportunity to sail on any other 30-1s so I have no point of reference. 
Comparing it to my friend's 35-2, I feel more pressure at my helm so I always 
try to match that boat's feel since it's the only other classic C&C I have been 
sailing. That might be contributing to my perception...
As far as the mast's rake, I used to have about 3" around two years ago (I 
measured it by hanging a very heavy plum bob from my main halyard on a super 
calm day).  Around that time, my mast step was giving up because of the 
infamous plywood stringers. When I rebuilt it and stepped the mast again, I 
decided to rake it a bit forward (about an inch). This didn't make much of a 
difference in reducing the helm pressure and I didn't restore it back mainly 
due to laziness!
At the end, I think you guys have found the issue: I have a baggy mail. It's an 
old sail and I'm trying to get every last penny out of it before ordering a new 
one. I have been using the Cunningham to move the draft forward and I thought 
it's making a difference but never realize how much of a major factor a baggy 
main could be. I purchased a new 135 jib early this season from Quantum and I'm 
very happy with it. I will budget a new main for next season and restore the 
rake back to the official specs (6" to 8"). Hope that will make a difference.
Thanks again for all your notes and great suggestions as always...
Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD

Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 22:07:20 -0800
From: paradigmat...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

Although I hate to mention it, I have seen people having a huge amount of 
trouble with weather helm because their boom was held on center by a 
backstay-mounted topping lift, amongst other things. 

To the original poster: I don't mean to sound out of line here, but have you 
had an experienced sailor out with you to give you some feedback on your setup?



On 29 November 2013 12:21, Andrew Burton  wrote:

Good point about sails changing the feel, Gary. A blown out main or jib, with 
the max draft at the battens will move the apparent center of effort way aft.

On the other hand, my crew is so tough, they don't even know how to reef!



Andy

C&C 40

Peregrine



Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI

USA02840



http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260



On Nov 29, 2013, at 14:16, "Gary Nylander"  wrote:



> I'm with Curtis on this one. I seldom reef because we are mostly in light 
> air. I drop from the 155 to the 140 when there are full whitecaps (15?) and 
> then reef at about 20. Don't have a second reef, so if it is blowing harder 
> than low 20's, I go to the working jib.


>

> My working jib is probably original to the boat (1980) - when I bought her, 
> it was very new feeling (crinkly) and seldom gets out of the bag.it is a 
> Hood, which I understand was original equipment. The two PO's were up a river 
> 10 miles from the Bay, so I think there was a fair amount of light air 
> sailing - and motoring.


>

> There's something amiss if you have to reef at 10 knots - either your sails 
> are so bagged out that the boat is falling over or the mast is set 
> incorrectly. The 30-1 is a stout craft it takes a lot of breeze to get it 
> squirrely enough that I am worried about rounding up.


>

> Gary

> 30-1 # 593

>

> - Original Message - From: "Curtis" 

> To: 

> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 9:08 AM

> Subject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

>

>

> yea i'm with Ddwight on this one,

> My C&C30 mk1 # 675 loves 11 thru17 knots.

> I dont start thinking of a reef till i'm over 17 knots. I usley drop

> down to the working 115% first. If needed I will put the 1st Reef in

> around 18-22 knots.

> I have hade some uncontroled steering falling off the wind when

> tacking. that was my fault. not the boat.

>

> 1981 C&C 30 MK1 #675

>

> Beaufort, Sc.

>

>

>

> On 11/26/13, dwight  wrote:

>> I don't think you should have to reef that soon.what is the rake on your

>> mast

>>

>>

>>

>>  _

>>

>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron

>> Rouhi

>> Sent: N

Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

[Paul Baker]

I have a pair of stainless Barient 16 I want to sell, bigger is always 
better :)



On 13-11-30 05:31 PM, John Russo wrote:


I am looking for a vintage 1984 or later Barient #10 winch to match 
the mainsheet winch on my 1984 C&C 32 located on my cabin top port 
side. I intend to use the 2^nd winch  on the starboard cabin top aft 
of the traveler. I had a 2nd or 3^rd hand Barient #10P there which did 
not do the job. It is for multipurpose use to be positioned aft of a 
Lewmar triple clutch for my main halyard , outhaul, and Vang.


The #10 that I have on the Port cabin top measures 4&3/8 at the base 
and is 3&3/4 tall. It is greyish-Maroon in color and I assume Aluminum 
as the 1984 -32 spec calls that out. I have checked out Ebay and there 
are some #10's listed but none with the above dimensions or AL.


Any suggestions as to where I can find one?

Thanks

John

Arpeggio

Norwalk CT



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Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

[sam . c . salter]

Aaron, When you get a new main, you won't believe what a different boat she is! I'm sure someone has said it here already, but you need a bit of weather helm. For steering feel - Lee helm feels like the boat is out of control and to help the keel counteract leeway when going upwind. But we're talking 4 or 5 degrees. (That's rudder angle not wheel angle- not sure if you have a wheel or a tiller. Much more than that and drag starts to become an issue. Too much heel also ramps up drag. It might seem fast with the rail in the water, but your wife has it right. Most boats have a "sweet spot " some where around 15 to 20 deg. Some a lot less. Keep taking the tablets, Sam :-)C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta    From: Aaron RouhiSent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 8:33 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm


I won't even come close to have as much experience as many of you guys here but I still remember to loosen the topping lift! ;)I received a lot of great feedback here so here a bit more background on the weather helm situation:My 30-1's weather helm is in no way a major issue. I guess it all comes back to my personal preference for less pressure on the helm. I also like to sail with least amount of heel possible especially when Admiral is onboard. Overtime, I have noticed that if I reef early and move the traveler to leeward, I can reduce both weather helm and heel angle tremendously. Without that, the boat has much more weather helm and heel but in no way she feels 'out of control' or un-manageable. It handles well in heavy conditions regardless. I haven't had the opportunity to sail on any other 30-1s so I have no point of reference. Comparing it to my friend's 35-2, I feel more pressure at my helm so I always try to match that boat's feel since it's the only other classic C&C I have been sailing. That might be contributing to my perception...As far as the mast's rake, I used to have about 3" around two years ago (I measured it by hanging a very heavy plum bob from my main halyard on a super calm day).  Around that time, my mast step was giving up because of the infamous plywood stringers. When I rebuilt it and stepped the mast again, I decided to rake it a bit forward (about an inch). This didn't make much of a difference in reducing the helm pressure and I didn't restore it back mainly due to laziness!At the end, I think you guys have found the issue: I have a baggy mail. It's an old sail and I'm trying to get every last penny out of it before ordering a new one. I have been using the Cunningham to move the draft forward and I thought it's making a difference but never realize how much of a major factor a baggy main could be. I purchased a new 135 jib early this season from Quantum and I'm very happy with it. I will budget a new main for next season and restore the rake back to the official specs (6" to 8"). Hope that will make a difference.Thanks again for all your notes and great suggestions as always...Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MDDate: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 22:07:20 -0800From: paradigmat...@gmail.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helmAlthough I hate to mention it, I have seen people having a huge amount of trouble with weather helm because their boom was held on center by a backstay-mounted topping lift, amongst other things. 
To the original poster: I don't mean to sound out of line here, but have you had an experienced sailor out with you to give you some feedback on your setup?
On 29 November 2013 12:21, Andrew Burton  wrote:
Good point about sails changing the feel, Gary. A blown out main or jib, with the max draft at the battens will move the apparent center of effort way aft.
On the other hand, my crew is so tough, they don't even know how to reef!

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA    02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Nov 29, 2013, at 14:16, "Gary Nylander"  wrote:

> I'm with Curtis on this one. I seldom reef because we are mostly in light air. I drop from the 155 to the 140 when there are full whitecaps (15?) and then reef at about 20. Don't have a second reef, so if it is blowing harder than low 20's, I go to the working jib.

>
> My working jib is probably original to the boat (1980) - when I bought her, it was very new feeling (crinkly) and seldom g