Re: Stus-List How to remove blades of gori 2-blade prop

[Dave Lane]

Thanks Steve and Alan.

I will look for the second set of set screws, as taking out the first 
set did not appear to loosen anything. If the tapered pins don't wiggle 
out, I'm not sure where they could be tapped out from as the inside send 
of the pin is not accessible.


--- Dave

On 21/04/2014 3:50 PM, sthom...@sympatico.ca wrote:
The pins that hold the blades are tapered stainless steel. Once you 
have removed the set screws, they should be easy to drive out, but 
make certain that you have all of the set screws removed. Mine had 
2 short set screws in each hole, one on top of the other.


Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 15:35:16 -0300
> From: dl...@ap.stmarys.ca
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List How to remove blades of gori 2-blade prop
>
> I have a C&C 29-2 (1983) with a 2-blade Gori prop on it. I need to
> remove the prop to replace the cutless bearing (without removing the
> whole shaft). The blades have to be removed in order to get access to
> the nut that would allow the prop to be removed. Does anyone know 
how to
> do this or know where instructions are online? I have been able to 
loose

> the three set-screws in the prop.
>
> --- Dave
> S/V "Vela"
>
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Re: Stus-List dorade box fastening

[dwight]

I have removed the 2 dorade boxes from my 1974, 35 MKII…they were each
mounted in bedding compound on deck forward of the mast and secured with 9
screws each from up through the underside of the deck into the ¾ inch teak
boxes, nothing else.  I removed these because they snagged my jib sheets,
often at very inopportune times.  I replaced them with mushroom vents, one
on either side, and always open.  No snags anymore.  Ventilation from these
in our conditions is adequate…however having read the virtues of solar
powered vents I may change, most for the ventilation advantage during winter
storage.…but good 4 inch solar powered vents are rather expensive

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

St. Margaret’s Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jimmy
Kelly
Sent: April 21, 2014 9:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List dorade box fastening

 

have 1968 redline 41 by bruckmann mfgremoved dorades..,back in early
80swere fastened from below as well as from inside boxes...also
glassedwithin boxwere not designed to be removed..had to have
yard  ..cut them off...instead of new dorades went with aluminium  14 by 8
inch hatches...alternated which way openedone of best changes
madeespecially when in hot climates30 yrs later..lewmar hatches
still in great shapealso less teak to maintain...with way yard installed
hatches ...  length wise parallel to boat centerlineat least 2 can be
open depending on direction of wave spray...have really worked wellalso
look great...not what had in mind when project started...later replaced teak
hatches with lewmar aluminium hatches..no more leaks when teak wood dried
out in hot summer sun.good luck on your projecthave you decided on
deck treatment?

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Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

[Della Barba, Joe]

Tons and tons and tons of LEDs all over FleaBay and superbrightleds.com < 
http://www.superbrightleds.com/>  ;)
You can find some LEDs to put in the existing fixtures for anywhere from a 
couple dollars on up. I am right now putting red LEDs and a while cold-cathode 
light into an Aqua Signal cabin light that I took the non-working fluorescent 
parts out of.
These look handy for boat projects - 
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-module-strings/

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin 
Driscoll
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2014 1:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

Allen,

From one C&C 30 mkII to another, I would not go the route of the Alpen Glow 
overhead lights. In my opinion, they may be fine for the older, somewhat more 
traditionally designed boats with lots of little teak bits, but the integrated 
lights in the headliner of the Robert Ball era boats are integral to the 
interior. I would use the Alpenglow reading lamps, which seem nice (though 
pretty darn expensive), but I would replace the overheads with something that 
fits underneath the diffuser in the headliner.

I've opted for the easy way and bought the Marinebeam led fluorescent 
replacement bulbs, which fit into the existing fixtures. We've used them main 
cabin, in the head and also the aft cabin on our 30-2 and are quite happy with 
them. We've opted for the middle color temperature of the three. I would not go 
with the warmest temp. Of course there are other solutions, but this seemed the 
most cost effective with a minimal amount of dickering.

The reading lights on the 30-2...well they are kind of cheap and throw a bit of 
glare. That is something I consider replacing in time.

Best,
Kevin


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Stus-List 70's C&C dorade box details

[Robert Boyer]

My LF38 is a 1983 vintage but my original dorade boxes were fastened just like 
Fred's.  About 10 years ago I made custom dorade boxes from StarBoard and 
switched to larger stainless steel dorade vents--I eliminated the teak 
maintenance, kept the original appearance of the dorade boxes, and improved 
ventilation.  I was a great upgrade all around!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
Annapolis, Maryland
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

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Re: Stus-List How to remove blades of gori 2-blade prop

[Michael Brown]

I have a copy of the original notes that came with my Gori:

2-blade Standard Shaft Installation Instructions

Parts List:
(1) Hub I x ea
(2 ) Blades 2 x ea
(3 ) Pins 2 x ea
(4) Shaft nut l x ea
(5 ) Allen screws 1 x ea
(6,7 ) Allen Screws 4 x ea
(8 ) Loctite 243 1 x small bottle
(9 ) Allen key 1 x 4mm

Please read these instructions prior to installing your new propeller.

A) Take the propeller apart — note that there are 2 x alien screws (6,7) that 
lock each of the blade pins (3) in place.
    Note that the blades, pins and hub are marked for re-assembly.
B) Check that the hub fits the shaft taper without interference from the key. 
To do this first slide the hub onto the shaft
    without the key in place and mark the shaft at the fwd end of the propeller 
hub. Now place the key into the keyway
    and slide the hub back onto the shaft. It should come to the same mark that 
you had made before. If not then file the
    key until the hub reaches the shaft mark.
C) Check the nut on the shaft thread.
D) Mount the hub on the shaft and tighten the nut (4) to the shaft to 
70ft/lb-95nm.
E) Install the alien screw (5) into the hub to lock the shaft nut. Do this by 
first smearing the threads with the enclosed Loctite 243.
    Tighten the screw in place using the allen key supplied.
F) Grease the moving parts of the blades-gears- with water resistant grease. 
Mount the blades (2) and the pins (3) to the hub.
    Be sure that you mount them in accordance to their numbers. ie #1 and #2.
G) Install allen screws (6,7) into aft end of hub using Loctite -243, on the 
threads. The second screw is a locking screw.
    Be sure to tighten both in place.
H) Check that the blades move freely from open to close.

WARNING:

• Do not start the engine while the boat is out of the water
• The prop may have sharp edges... be careful not to cut yourself
• Make sure the blades do not open or close suddenly and trap your fingers
• Stop the engine before diving or swimming in the vicinity of the boat
• Propeller blades can cause considerable damage when rotating ... be careful.
• Do not remove fish nets, rope or similar from the prop with the engine 
running.
• Check that the prop works in both fwd and reverse before each trip. If any 
strange sounds or vibrations are
   noticed coming from the propeller stop the engine and investigate the 
reasons/solve the problem.




Other note:

Loctite - the spec is for Loctite 243 which is the oil tolerant medium strength 
version. Everywhere I looked all
that was being carried was the Loctite 242 which while it looks the same 
performs it best when applied to clean
and oil free threads. Somewhere I read that even a barely detectable mist of 
grease on the threads will reduce
the breaking strength on 242 substantially, maybe as much as 75%.


Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1



> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 15:35:16 -0300 
> From: dl...@ap.stmarys.ca   
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
> Subject: Stus-List How to remove blades of gori 2-blade prop 
>  
> I have a C&C 29-2 (1983) with a 2-blade Gori prop on it. I need to  
> remove the prop to replace the cutless bearing (without removing the  
> whole shaft). The blades have to be removed in order to get access to  
> the nut that would allow the prop to be removed. Does anyone know how to  
> do this or know where instructions are online? I have been able to loose  
> the three set-screws in the prop. 
>  
> --- Dave 
> S/V "Vela" 
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Re: Stus-List Fw: Ice Box seal...

[cenelson]

No attachment--I was referring to the string of emails regarding these gas 
cylinders.

I like them but they need to be sized correctly so that the cylinder maximum 
and minimum extent work in the space available 
and that the cylinder has the power to hold up the corresponding chart table, 
lazarette cover or refrigerator lid
to which they are attached.

Charlie Nelson
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb



cenel...@aol.com



-Original Message-
From: David 
To: CNC CNC 
Sent: Mon, Apr 21, 2014 11:10 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw:  Ice Box seal...



Charlie,

Was there an attachment showing "these" or were you referring to an earlier 
e-mail.

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)




From: cenel...@aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2014 20:26:12 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw:  Ice Box seal...


These were standard on my icebox/refrigerator, my chart table and my lazarette 
hatches with my 1995 XL/kcb. They are great and last approx 4-5 years depending 
on where they are used IIRC.


Charlie Nelson
C&C 36XL/kcb
Water Phantom


Sent from my iPad

On Apr 21, 2014, at 5:30 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:



Me, too, if you could.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Apr 21, 2014, at 4:15 PM, Persuasion  wrote:




I would
 
Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

 

From: Bill Coleman
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 5:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

 

I put it on in the middle of 2012. Still going strong.  Would you like to see 
pictures of it in action?
 

Bill Coleman
C&C 39





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Re: Stus-List How to remove blades of gori 2-blade prop

[Martin Kane]

You can find a diagram of the components of a 2 blade prop at 
http://www.sillette.co.uk/documents/Gori2bladeshafttypefittinginstructions.pdf

 

Martin 

 

29-2 Recalculating

From: Alan Bergen [mailto:alan-at-h...@comcast.net] 
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 3:45 PM
To: C&C Photoalbum email list
Subject: Re: Stus-List How to remove blades of gori 2-blade prop

 

Dave:

Remove the set screws completely.  Then check to see whether there are set 
screws underneath the ones you removed.  If so, remove them also.  The pin 
holding the blades should slide out, or you may have to tap it out.

 


Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MKIII Reefer Madness

[Ken Heaton]

We also have the small plastic pump in the cabinet under the sink that
pumps the icebox into the galley sink.  The pump we have is a Beckson
Siphon-Mate® Siphon Pump 109PC: http://www.beckson.com/109PC.html

We do have refrigeration, with a holding plate, but we occasionally have
spills and also occasionally need to defrost the plate.  The little Beckson
pump deals with that sort of thing just fine.

Ken H.


On 20 April 2014 13:32, Jim Watts  wrote:

> Our 29-2 came with the plastic pump under the sink, same as the 35. On
> both boats I replaced the pump with the small bronze PAR "Little Pal" pump,
> much more reliable. I kept the installation as built because I don't want
> anything from the icebox in the bilge. On BOTH boats we had a freezer pak
> leak in the box, it was good to be able to pump that out into the garbage.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On 20 April 2014 08:52, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>
>> I plugged my drain hole on purpose, I don't want all that good cold water
>> to go away. Also, the under sink mounted pump looked dubious and I think
>> the hose even separated from the drain hole at the bottom of the cooler.
>>
>> Put your ice bags into containers. No more water at the bottom of the
>> cooler. IIRC we used the upper plastic bin that's part of the cooler. When
>> the ice melts we just take the bin out and pour the water down the drain
>> (when we get new ice, of course). Bottom of the cooler is nice and dry (and
>> cold).
>>
>> That drain hose is hidden on my 32 as well. I considered putting an
>> inspection port inside the cabinet under the sink (where the drain hose
>> goes) but thought that plan A above was the better move. I used an oil
>> drain bolt from a honda outboard, it fit perfectly (I had it laying
>> around). I'm sure any number of things would work to plug the hole. It's an
>> easy way out.
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 20, 2014 at 11:31 AM, Jake Brodersen wrote:
>>
>>> Erik,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have a 6” inspection port installed in the bulkhead under the stove.
>>> I have easy access to the drain fitting and hose.  It came with the boat.
>>> My drain used to go to a small pump under the sink, but I opted for letting
>>> it drain into the bilge via gravity.  Since installing refrigeration, I
>>> doubt the drain serves a useful purpose.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The inspection port is barely visible from the cabin.  You may want to
>>> consider installing on, if other methods don’t clear your drain.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jake
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>>
>>> *“Midnight Mistress”*
>>>
>>> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>>>
>>> *Hampton Va*
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Erik
>>> Hillenmeyer
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, April 20, 2014 12:52 AM
>>>
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C 35 MKIII Reefer Madness
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have a problem driving me nuts.  The reefer drain on our boat is
>>> completely clogged; it makes a horrible mess when a few bags of ice melt in
>>> it and we need to bail the thing out, meanwhile food sits in standing water
>>> and labels soak off all the beers.  I've tried 3 different snakes and even
>>> liquid plumber.  Nothing works.  Problem is, I've found this to be the only
>>> inaccessible part of the boat.  The plumbing for the drain is all contained
>>> totally enclosed.  the plumbing exits through a very small hole in the
>>> bulkhead under the sink where it drains into the bilge.  Anyway I can get
>>> to this without cutting a hole the bulkhead?  Does the drain screw into the
>>> bottom of the reefer, anyway I can get  it out that way?  Anyone else ever
>>> removed or replaced this plumbing?  My last resort is considering routing a
>>> hole in the counter beneath the reefer, next to the stove and putting in a
>>> large inspection port after fixing it, but it's not a very aesthetically
>>> pleasing option to me.  After trying snakes and chemical options I've
>>> pretty much given up on clearing the clog without taking it apart.  It's
>>> never drained since I bought the boat, so for all I know someone poured
>>> epoxy down it, it certainly isn't your normal clog.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Erik
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> C&C 35-3
>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>
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>>
>>
>
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Stus-List Bay Area Sailors

[Alan Bergen]

I will be visiting San Francisco, with friends, from May 12 to May 16, and 
would like to get in a day of sailing while I am there. If anyone is available 
to take me (or us) on board, one day, please contact me off list, or by phone 
(503) 358-6981. 

Alan Bergen 
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

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Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

[allen]

Jake,

I'd like to see that.  I live in NE NC about an hour and a half from Hampton.  
When are you generally available and where sis Midnight Mistress located?

Allen Miles
S/V Septima 
C&C 30-2
Hampton VA


From: Jake Brodersen 
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 8:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL


Allen,

 

The Adler-Barbour system works well for do-it-yourself refrigeration.  I'd be 
glad to show you how I did mine.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of allen
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 4:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

 

Finally got on Septima Thursday last.  Wind was howling, but at least there was 
no rain.   It's imagineering time, so I looked first at the formed areas in the 
headliner where the two age fluorescent fixtures reside.  I want to replace 
them with the Alpenglow LED fixtures you used. The LED units measure 10 X 6 X 2 
inches.  The openings are  13.5 X 8 X 2  inches.  I want to set the LED 
fixtures as flush to the headliner as possible for head clearance reasons. I'm 
6' 4" and those teak corners look sharp. How did you mount yours so they look 
professionally done? 

 

I'm looking to convert to all LED in one fell swoop, the convenience lamps for 
the sole, the reading lamps, the head and the nav station gooseneck.  Any other 
pitfalls I should avoid?

 

I'm also checking out the group suggestions for refrigeration and took the 
measurements for that project too.

 

Allen Miles

S/V Septima

30-2

Hampton, VA

 

From: Rick Brass 

Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 10:32 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

 

I don't always agree with the things I read in Practical Sailor, but I have to 
agree with them that these are about the best interior lights available for 
general illumination in your cabin.

 

I've had a low power Alpenglow fluorescent fixture on my 25 for more than a 
decade. I like the quality of the illumination, the low power consumption, and 
the nice teak fixture. My experience was a large part of the decision to put 
two of the LED fixtures on my 38.

 

All of the fixtures I purchased have high (9W for the fluorescent) and low (6 
or 7W) power for white light, and a separate red light with 2 low power 
settings. I habitually leave the lowest power red lights on when sailing at 
night so I can find the beer or a snack and move around the cabin without 
bumping into things.

 

Others on the list have other solutions for low power consumption lighting - 
and may well have paid less than I did. The LED fixtures were around $130 each. 
But I spent a half hour or less on the installation process and I don't need to 
worry about a source for spare parts if I ever need them.

 

I'm quite happy with the lights.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 5:17 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

 

Rick,  

Do you like the Alpenglows?

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)




From: rickbr...@earthlink.net
To: capt...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 14:43:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

Alex;

 

I second Dennis' recommendation for MarineBeam.com. I have also used 
Superbrightleds.com as a source with good results for replacement for 
incandescent bulbs in the cabin. And as I've said before, I put Alpenglow LED 
fixtures in the cabin in place of the OEM fluorescent lights. The only problem 
I have had in the 3 or so years I've had LED bulbs on the boat has been with 
the PAR bulbs that are in the light fixtures containing my steaming and 
foredeck lights and my spreader lights. The heat sink on the LED replacement 
bulbs is slightly larger than the reflector on the halogen bulbs that came in 
the fixture, so the fit isn't quite right and I need to install the LED bulbs 
without the lens that came in the fixture. No failures so far, but I had to go 
up and reseat one of the spreader lights last spring before it would go on.

 

Regarding nav lights, I'm not sure about Transport Canada requirements - you 
guys have some regs that seem frickin strange to me. But as far as the USCG 
compliance goes you should have no problems. 

 

The USCG requires that the manufacturer use nav lights that comply with USCG 
requirements when building the boat. Many light manufacturers will put 
something on their fixtures that say they comply with the requirements. But the 
USCG neither approves nor disapproves of any light, they only require that the 
lights used put out enough lumens to be seen over the range and arc specified 
in the ColRegs.

 

The guy at Marinebeam was really helpful to me when I put LEDs in all my nav 
lights. I wa

Stus-List Frig compressor enclosure

[Joel Aronson]

My refrigeration compressor is in the lazarette.  The copper tubing is
exposed.  I can secure some of it with clips, but  I'm thinking of making
an enclosure out of pegboard to allow ventilation.   I'm wondering if there
is a more moisture- tolerant material.

Thoughts?

-- 
Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

[Wally Bryant]

Panama.  Canada. Nigeria.

How much money do you have in liquid assets?



you wrote:

e and where sis Midnight Mistress located?



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Re: Stus-List Gate valve removal

[Joseph Bognar]

I am finally tackling a long overdue job. I am removing the
original 1979 Gate valves from my boat and replacing them with ball valves.
These are the ones connected to my cockpit drains . I am looking for and
suggestions or ideas from others that have done this already. I am trying to
save the through hull in this process also.Thanks in advance for any and all
advice

 

Joe Bognar

1979 C&C 30

In Luff Again II

Grimsby,On

 

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Re: Stus-List Gate valve removal

[Frederick G Street]

You may run into a thread incompatibility, depending on what you’re using to 
replace the old valves.  Through-hulls and real seacocks use NPS threading 
(straight), while ball valves are generally going to have NPT (tapered) 
threads.  You can’t safely mix the two.  So if you’re attaching a valve 
directly to an existing through-hull you’ll need to check the threads on both 
to see what you’ve got.  You’d be better off installing true seacocks if 
there’s enough thread to put in a decent backing plate.

There’s a good explanation here: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 22, 2014, at 3:56 PM, Joseph Bognar  wrote:

> I am finally tackling a long overdue job. I am removing the 
> original 1979 Gate valves from my boat and replacing them with ball valves. 
> These are the ones connected to my cockpit drains . I am looking for and 
> suggestions or ideas from others that have done this already. I am trying to 
> save the through hull in this process also.Thanks in advance for any and all 
> advice
>  
> Joe Bognar
> 1979 C&C 30
> In Luff Again II
> Grimsby,On
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Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

[allen]

Wally,

So I have stutter finger when I type

Allen

--
From: "Wally Bryant" 
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2014 4:35 PM
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL


Panama.  Canada. Nigeria.

How much money do you have in liquid assets?



you wrote:

e and where sis Midnight Mistress located?



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Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL

[allen]

Kevin,

You bring up a good point about the simplicity of replacing the fluorescent 
bulbs with their LED equivalents in the exiting housings.  I'd have to give up 
the two intensity white and/or red lights, but I wouldn't have to worry about 
hitting my head on the teak corners of the not flush lamp fixtures.  I do have 
a teak ceilinged 30-2, so the teak fittings wouldn't look that out of place, 
but the simplicity of plug and play is compelling.  Thanks for the suggeestion: 
I'll take that under consideration.

For the galley and head, your suggestion is easy to implement and greatly 
appreciated.  I'll have to look at the aft cabin and reading lamps, I've been 
off the boat with a leg injury  that took two years to return to normal and my 
memory there is dim.  For the little lamps that light the cabin sole, I am 
hoping for a plug in replacement once I clean up corrosion from the mounts.

Allen Miles
S/V Septima
C&C 30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Kevin Driscoll 
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2014 1:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL


Allen, 


>From one C&C 30 mkII to another, I would not go the route of the Alpen Glow 
>overhead lights. In my opinion, they may be fine for the older, somewhat more 
>traditionally designed boats with lots of little teak bits, but the integrated 
>lights in the headliner of the Robert Ball era boats are integral to the 
>interior. I would use the Alpenglow reading lamps, which seem nice (though 
>pretty darn expensive), but I would replace the overheads with something that 
>fits underneath the diffuser in the headliner. 


I've opted for the easy way and bought the Marinebeam led fluorescent 
replacement bulbs, which fit into the existing fixtures. We've used them main 
cabin, in the head and also the aft cabin on our 30-2 and are quite happy with 
them. We've opted for the middle color temperature of the three. I would not go 
with the warmest temp. Of course there are other solutions, but this seemed the 
most cost effective with a minimal amount of dickering. 


The reading lights on the 30-2...well they are kind of cheap and throw a bit of 
glare. That is something I consider replacing in time. 


Best,
Kevin





Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493




On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 1:07 PM, allen  wrote:

  Finally got on Septima Thursday last.  Wind was howling, but at least there 
was no rain.   It's imagineering time, so I looked first at the formed areas in 
the headliner where the two age fluorescent fixtures reside.  I want to replace 
them with the Alpenglow LED fixtures you used. The LED units measure 10 X 6 X 2 
inches.  The openings are  13.5 X 8 X 2  inches.  I want to set the LED 
fixtures as flush to the headliner as possible for head clearance reasons. I'm 
6' 4" and those teak corners look sharp. How did you mount yours so they look 
professionally done? 

  I'm looking to convert to all LED in one fell swoop, the convenience lamps 
for the sole, the reading lamps, the head and the nav station gooseneck.  Any 
other pitfalls I should avoid?

  I'm also checking out the group suggestions for refrigeration and took the 
measurements for that project too.

  Allen Miles
  S/V Septima
  30-2
  Hampton, VA


  From: Rick Brass 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 10:32 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL


  I don’t always agree with the things I read in Practical Sailor, but I have 
to agree with them that these are about the best interior lights available for 
general illumination in your cabin.



  I’ve had a low power Alpenglow fluorescent fixture on my 25 for more than a 
decade. I like the quality of the illumination, the low power consumption, and 
the nice teak fixture. My experience was a large part of the decision to put 
two of the LED fixtures on my 38.



  All of the fixtures I purchased have high (9W for the fluorescent) and low (6 
or 7W) power for white light, and a separate red light with 2 low power 
settings. I habitually leave the lowest power red lights on when sailing at 
night so I can find the beer or a snack and move around the cabin without 
bumping into things.



  Others on the list have other solutions for low power consumption lighting – 
and may well have paid less than I did. The LED fixtures were around $130 each. 
But I spent a half hour or less on the installation process and I don’t need to 
worry about a source for spare parts if I ever need them.



  I’m quite happy with the lights.



  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
  Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 5:17 PM
  To: CNC CNC
  Subject: Re: Stus-List LED BULBS IN GENERAL



  Rick,  

  Do you like the Alpenglows?

  David F. Risch
  (401) 419-4650 (cell)




--

  From: rickbr...@earthlink.net
  To: capt...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013

Re: Stus-List Frig compressor enclosure

[Alan Bergen]

Joel: 

I Put my compressor in the compartment under the seat, just forward of the 
stove. I got enough ventilation without cutting an access port. 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 
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Re: Stus-List Frig compressor enclosure

[Chuck S]

Lumber yards sell "expanded PVC" sheets. 3/8" x 4' x 8' cost about $75 and is 
amazing stuff. Waterproof and super lightweight, cuts like wood, great for 
making a box or a panel, but only comes in white. You could use that or maybe 
vinyl soffit material? 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 

- Original Message -

From: "Joel Aronson"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2014 4:33:41 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Frig compressor enclosure 

My refrigeration compressor is in the lazarette. The copper tubing is exposed. 
I can secure some of it with clips, but I'm thinking of making an enclosure out 
of pegboard to allow ventilation. I'm wondering if there is a more moisture- 
tolerant material. 

Thoughts? 

-- 
Joel 
35/3 
The Office 
Annapolis 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Frig compressor enclosure

[Dennis C.]

Joel,

I searched mcmaster.com for perforated sheets.  Got this:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-perforated-sheets/=rnjdwz

Is this something like you imagined?

Dennis C.


On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 3:33 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:

> My refrigeration compressor is in the lazarette.  The copper tubing is
> exposed.  I can secure some of it with clips, but  I'm thinking of making
> an enclosure out of pegboard to allow ventilation.   I'm wondering if there
> is a more moisture- tolerant material.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> --
> Joel
> 35/3
> The Office
> Annapolis
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Stus-List Plumbing Question - C & C 34

[Al Serrato]

I've got a '81 34 and I wanted to make sure I know where all the thru hulls 
are.  
 
My question is where the foot-pump operated water supply is coming from. On 
other boats, I've seen the thru hull under the sink, but on this boat, the 
closest thru hull is the drain for the sink. I don't see a water source. 
 
My other question is whether there is some difference between the two faucet 
handles on the sink, or whether they're both coming from the water tank. The 
boat isn't equipped for hot water, so I was wondering why they built it that 
way. Maybe for some future hot water installation?
 
Thanks in advance for the help.
 
Al Serrato
1981 C & C 34
Fidelity
San Francisco Bay___
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Re: Stus-List Frig compressor enclosure

[Joel Aronson]

Sounds good!  Don't want to pay for StarBoard.

I'll see if Home Depot sells partial sheets.  I guess I can drill lots of
holes.


On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 8:01 PM, Chuck S  wrote:

> Lumber yards sell "expanded PVC" sheets.  3/8" x 4' x 8' cost about $75
> and is amazing stuff.  Waterproof and super lightweight, cuts like wood,
> great for making a box or a panel, but only comes in white.You could
> use that or maybe vinyl soffit material?
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
>
> --
> *From: *"Joel Aronson" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Tuesday, April 22, 2014 4:33:41 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List Frig compressor enclosure
>
>
> My refrigeration compressor is in the lazarette.  The copper tubing is
> exposed.  I can secure some of it with clips, but  I'm thinking of making
> an enclosure out of pegboard to allow ventilation.   I'm wondering if there
> is a more moisture- tolerant material.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> --
> Joel
> 35/3
> The Office
> Annapolis
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Untie the lines

[Jean-Francois J Rivard]

Hey, have you guys been following Nike's blog (Pronounced Neeka) called
"Untie the Lines"  on YouTube?

 https://www.youtube.com/user/WhiteSpotPirates

This is another video blog about someone whom went for it.  This nice young
German lady sold a bunch of stuff, moved out of the land lubbers house and
bought a boat to explore the globe.  She's really fun and inspiring to
watch.  She bought this somewhat derelict Henke Super 10 in Panama and
going through a MAJOR refit.  Everything on the boat was a major project.

I'm talking EVERYTHING.  Doing the bottom job she found several corrosion
holes in the "Aluminium"  yep they had to do some pretty major welding to
patch the holes..  The mold growing on the teak in the cabin looked like
Bonsai trees growing out of the cabinets.  (Makes me itch just typing
this ..)

Anyway, the videos are nicely edited (No shaky teenage phone cam crap here)
and great to watch.  She's an impressive (And attractive) 32 year old young
lady.

Check it out.

-Francois
1990 C&C 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia___
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Stus-List Scope of work...

[Dave Godwin]

Martin,

I’m planning on taking on my boat this summer the same job as you have 
undertaken.

This is just a general question but I’m wondering about what I may expect to 
find when I get started. My question is this: When you pull the deck hardware 
and find areas that need to fixed that have wet core, is it a matter of “large” 
areas of wet surrounding the hole or is it generally just confined to local 
intrusion around the bolt holes? Meaning I guess, are you going in a removing 
wet core within reach of the original hardware bolt hole or are you cutting up 
the top layer of deck and going in and replacing the core?

And as follow-on, is the balsa rotten or is it “merely” wet”? As I said, I say 
that because I’m wondering how much of the deck fiberglass I can expect to cut 
out and replace. I’m prepared for the worst...

Your observations would be welcome.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Apr 21, 2014, at 9:17 PM, Martin DeYoung  wrote:

> Jimmy,
>  
> Thanks for the info based on your Bruckmann built Redline.  I will discuss 
> the hatch conversion idea with Calypso’s co-owner but I expect we will keep 
> the teak dorade boxes.  One of our goals is to keep the boat mostly looking 
> like it was when launched, just a little updated here and there.
>  
> > have you decided on deck treatment?<
>  
> I am planning to test Kiwi Grip (light gray) and EZPoxy 2 (color similar to 
> the original off white) on a cockpit hatch.  I will be testing for how the 
> paint applies with brush or roll/tip and how the Kiwi Grip looks/feels.  If 
> the light grey non-skid area looks out of place we will stick with the 
> existing all off white and use a custom color mix of Kiwi Grip or similar 
> non-skid coating.
>  
> The original teak foredeck hatch was converted to a A&H 36”x36” back in the 
> early 80’s.  The mid and head A&H hatches were original from 1970.  All three 
> opening A&H hatches were sent to Hammerhead for refirb.  I will report back 
> on how they look when the 90lbs of hatches and packaging arrive back next 
> week.
>  
> By the time we are finished over 200 holes in the deck will have been drilled 
> out and refilled with epoxy.  Some work days we have found more old holes 
> that were painted over than we filled.  Must be each past owner moved deck 
> hardware around several times.  Most of the old polyester based filler 
> (“bondo”) is failing and allows water to seep by.  All deck hardware is being 
> removed to inspect for water intrusion.  Most areas checked so far have some 
> amount of wet or damaged core.  We are getting faster at repairing and 
> sealing the areas.  High load areas will be rebuilt with epoxy and glass so 
> no further water damage will occur.
>  
> The interior will be sanded or stripped (it is painted Herreshoff style, 
> white with teak trim) then repainted with white Brightside.  If time allows 
> we will rebuilt the “stick built” sole supports.  After decades of racing and 
> cruising, crew weight upon the floorboards causes enough creaking to be quite 
> annoying when someone does a middle of the night anchor check.
>  
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> 
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jimmy Kelly
> Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 5:47 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List dorade box fastening
>  
> have 1968 redline 41 by bruckmann mfgremoved dorades..,back in early 
> 80swere fastened from below as well as from inside boxes...also 
> glassedwithin boxwere not designed to be removed..had to have 
> yard  ..cut them off...instead of new dorades went with aluminium  14 by 8 
> inch hatches...alternated which way openedone of best changes 
> madeespecially when in hot climates30 yrs later..lewmar hatches still 
> in great shapealso less teak to maintain...with way yard installed 
> hatches ...  length wise parallel to boat centerlineat least 2 can be 
> open depending on direction of wave spray...have really worked wellalso 
> look great...not what had in mind when project started...later replaced teak 
> hatches with lewmar aluminium hatches..no more leaks when teak wood dried out 
> in hot summer sun.good luck on your projecthave you decided on deck 
> treatment?
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Untie the lines

[Dave Godwin]

I’ve been following her progress on a weekly basis. I admire her spirit and 
honesty. Big, big job to take on and she has been really honest about what’s 
going on and how she is dealing with it. She has some skilz with video and 
editing which makes it an nice video blog to follow.

I really pulling for her to keep going.

Best,

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Apr 22, 2014, at 8:46 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard  wrote:

> Hey, have you guys been following Nike's blog (Pronounced Neeka) called 
> "Untie the Lines"  on YouTube? 
> 
>  https://www.youtube.com/user/WhiteSpotPirates
> 
> This is another video blog about someone whom went for it.  This nice young 
> German lady sold a bunch of stuff, moved out of the land lubbers house and 
> bought a boat to explore the globe.  She's really fun and inspiring to watch. 
>  She bought this somewhat derelict Henke Super 10 in Panama and going through 
> a MAJOR refit.  Everything on the boat was a major project. 
> 
> I'm talking EVERYTHING.  Doing the bottom job she found several corrosion 
> holes in the "Aluminium"  yep they had to do some pretty major welding to 
> patch the holes..  The mold growing on the teak in the cabin looked like 
> Bonsai trees growing out of the cabinets.  (Makes me itch just typing this 
> ..)  
> 
> Anyway, the videos are nicely edited (No shaky teenage phone cam crap here) 
> and great to watch.  She's an impressive (And attractive) 32 year old young 
> lady.
> 
> Check it out.  
> 
> -Francois
> 1990 C&C 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Question - C & C 34

[Edd Schillay]

Al,

The foot pump should be attached to the starboard fresh water tank.

As for the water heater, there should be a cylindrical one under your starboard 
cockpit seat where you also have engine access. 

The Enterprise-A was a 1978 C&C 34.  It was destroyed by Superstorm Sandy over 
a year ago. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5

On Apr 22, 2014, at 8:33 PM, Al Serrato  wrote:

I've got a '81 34 and I wanted to make sure I know where all the thru hulls 
are. 
 
My question is where the foot-pump operated water supply is coming from. On 
other boats, I've seen the thru hull under the sink, but on this boat, the 
closest thru hull is the drain for the sink. I don't see a water source.
 
My other question is whether there is some difference between the two faucet 
handles on the sink, or whether they're both coming from the water tank. The 
boat isn't equipped for hot water, so I was wondering why they built it that 
way. Maybe for some future hot water installation?
 
Thanks in advance for the help.
 
Al Serrato
1981 C & C 34
Fidelity
San Francisco Bay
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Question - C & C 34

[Frederick G Street]

Hi, Al — welcome to the list!  On both my previous boat (1981 30mkI) and 
current boat (1979 Landfall 38), the galley foot pump works in parallel to the 
cold side of the pressure water system; so it’s plumbed to the freshwater 
system.  No through hull.

As far as the two faucet handles go, are you talking two handles on one faucet 
(like you’d see in a home installation), or two handles with two faucets?  If 
it’s the first, I’d guess the “hot” one is either not connected, or connected 
to the same supply as the “cold” one.  If the second, it may be a saltwater 
source, and you’re going to need to trace plumbing to find the source.

Does that help?

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 22, 2014, at 7:33 PM, Al Serrato  wrote:

> I've got a '81 34 and I wanted to make sure I know where all the thru hulls 
> are. 
>  
> My question is where the foot-pump operated water supply is coming from. On 
> other boats, I've seen the thru hull under the sink, but on this boat, the 
> closest thru hull is the drain for the sink. I don't see a water source.
>  
> My other question is whether there is some difference between the two faucet 
> handles on the sink, or whether they're both coming from the water tank. The 
> boat isn't equipped for hot water, so I was wondering why they built it that 
> way. Maybe for some future hot water installation?
>  
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>  
> Al Serrato
> 1981 C & C 34
> Fidelity
> San Francisco Bay
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Re: Stus-List Untie the lines

[Chuck S]

Very cool videos. I watched 3 before I noticed the time. Hope to get back to 
the others, but have to work on my own dream. Launching Saturday. 

Chuck 


- Original Message -

From: "Dave Godwin"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2014 8:53:00 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Untie the lines 

I’ve been following her progress on a weekly basis. I admire her spirit and 
honesty. Big, big job to take on and she has been really honest about what’s 
going on and how she is dealing with it. She has some skilz with video and 
editing which makes it an nice video blog to follow. 

I really pulling for her to keep going. 

Best, 

Dave Godwin 
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin 
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay 
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

On Apr 22, 2014, at 8:46 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard < jfriv...@us.ibm.com > 
wrote: 






Hey, have you guys been following Nike's blog (Pronounced Neeka) called "Untie 
the Lines" on YouTube? 

https://www.youtube.com/user/WhiteSpotPirates 

This is another video blog about someone whom went for it. This nice young 
German lady sold a bunch of stuff, moved out of the land lubbers house and 
bought a boat to explore the globe. She's really fun and inspiring to watch. 
She bought this somewhat derelict Henke Super 10 in Panama and going through a 
MAJOR refit. Everything on the boat was a major project. 

I'm talking EVERYTHING. Doing the bottom job she found several corrosion holes 
in the "Aluminium" yep they had to do some pretty major welding to patch the 
holes.. The mold growing on the teak in the cabin looked like Bonsai trees 
growing out of the cabinets. (Makes me itch just typing this ..) 

Anyway, the videos are nicely edited (No shaky teenage phone cam crap here) and 
great to watch. She's an impressive (And attractive) 32 year old young lady. 

Check it out. 

-Francois 
1990 C&C 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, Georgia 
___ 
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com 





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Re: Stus-List Frig compressor enclosure

[Jake Brodersen]

Joel,

 

Plastic might be a better choice.  My tubing is just coiled up on a shelf 
(there was a lot of it left over).  No corrosion so far.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2014 4:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Frig compressor enclosure

 

My refrigeration compressor is in the lazarette.  The copper tubing is exposed. 
 I can secure some of it with clips, but  I'm thinking of making an enclosure 
out of pegboard to allow ventilation.   I'm wondering if there is a more 
moisture- tolerant material.

 

Thoughts?


 

-- 
Joel 

35/3

The Office

Annapolis
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Untie the lines

[Curtis]

I look forward to Fridays



On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 9:17 PM, Chuck S  wrote:

> Very cool videos.  I watched 3 before I noticed the time.  Hope to get
> back to the others, but have to work on my own dream.  Launching Saturday.
>
> Chuck
>
>
> --
> *From: *"Dave Godwin" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Tuesday, April 22, 2014 8:53:00 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Untie the lines
>
>
> I've been following her progress on a weekly basis. I admire her spirit
> and honesty. Big, big job to take on and she has been really honest about
> what's going on and how she is dealing with it. She has some skilz with
> video and editing which makes it an nice video blog to follow.
>
> I really pulling for her to keep going.
>
> Best,
>
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin's Overdue Refit 
>
> On Apr 22, 2014, at 8:46 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard 
> wrote:
>
> Hey, have you guys been following Nike's blog (Pronounced Neeka) called
> "Untie the Lines"  on YouTube?
>
>  https://www.youtube.com/user/WhiteSpotPirates
>
> This is another video blog about someone whom went for it.  This nice
> young German lady sold a bunch of stuff, moved out of the land lubbers
> house and bought a boat to explore the globe.  She's really fun and
> inspiring to watch.  She bought this somewhat derelict Henke Super 10 in
> Panama and going through a MAJOR refit.  Everything on the boat was a major
> project.
>
> I'm talking EVERYTHING.  Doing the bottom job she found several corrosion
> holes in the "Aluminium"  yep they had to do some pretty major welding to
> patch the holes..  The mold growing on the teak in the cabin looked like
> Bonsai trees growing out of the cabinets.  (Makes me itch just typing this
> ..)
>
> Anyway, the videos are nicely edited (No shaky teenage phone cam crap
> here) and great to watch.  She's an impressive (And attractive) 32 year old
> young lady.
>
> Check it out.
>
> -Francois
> 1990 C&C 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
"All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
open eyes, to make it possible."

T. E. Lawrence

.
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Scope of work...

[bobmor99 .]

Rob Gallagher's paraphrasing of Rob Ball's take on wet cores:

To paraphrase Rob Ball (C&C designer) when he answered a question last
summer about cored decks...   'Ok, so the core is wet, lots of boats
have wet cores, now what?  If there is no serious de-lamination who cares?
 Spend a fortune to fix a damp core or sail the boat for another decade,
maybe longer?'  I would, however, try to find the leak and fix it.

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 8:49 PM, Dave Godwin  wrote:

> Martin,
>
> I’m planning on taking on my boat this summer the same job as you have
> undertaken.
>
> This is just a general question but I’m wondering about what I may expect
> to find when I get started. My question is this: When you pull the deck
> hardware and find areas that need to fixed that have wet core, is it a
> matter of “large” areas of wet surrounding the hole or is it generally just
> confined to local intrusion around the bolt holes? Meaning I guess, are you
> going in a removing wet core within reach of the original hardware bolt
> hole or are you cutting up the top layer of deck and going in and replacing
> the core?
>
> And as follow-on, is the balsa rotten or is it “merely” wet”? As I said, I
> say that because I’m wondering how much of the deck fiberglass I can expect
> to cut out and replace. I’m prepared for the worst...
>
> Your observations would be welcome.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Apr 21, 2014, at 9:17 PM, Martin DeYoung 
> wrote:
>
> Jimmy,
>
> Thanks for the info based on your Bruckmann built Redline.  I will discuss
> the hatch conversion idea with Calypso’s co-owner but I expect we will keep
> the teak dorade boxes.  One of our goals is to keep the boat mostly looking
> like it was when launched, just a little updated here and there.
>
> > have you decided on deck treatment?<
>
> I am planning to test Kiwi Grip (light gray) and EZPoxy 2 (color similar
> to the original off white) on a cockpit hatch.  I will be testing for how
> the paint applies with brush or roll/tip and how the Kiwi Grip
> looks/feels.  If the light grey non-skid area looks out of place we will
> stick with the existing all off white and use a custom color mix of Kiwi
> Grip or similar non-skid coating.
>
> The original teak foredeck hatch was converted to a A&H 36”x36” back in
> the early 80’s.  The mid and head A&H hatches were original from 1970.  All
> three opening A&H hatches were sent to Hammerhead for refirb.  I will
> report back on how they look when the 90lbs of hatches and packaging arrive
> back next week.
>
> By the time we are finished over 200 holes in the deck will have been
> drilled out and refilled with epoxy.  Some work days we have found more old
> holes that were painted over than we filled.  Must be each past owner moved
> deck hardware around several times.  Most of the old polyester based filler
> (“bondo”) is failing and allows water to seep by.  All deck hardware is
> being removed to inspect for water intrusion.  Most areas checked so far
> have some amount of wet or damaged core.  We are getting faster at
> repairing and sealing the areas.  High load areas will be rebuilt with
> epoxy and glass so no further water damage will occur.
>
> The interior will be sanded or stripped (it is painted Herreshoff style,
> white with teak trim) then repainted with white Brightside.  If time allows
> we will rebuilt the “stick built” sole supports.  After decades of racing
> and cruising, crew weight upon the floorboards causes enough creaking to be
> quite annoying when someone does a middle of the night anchor check.
>
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
>
> 
>
> *From:* CnC-List 
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Jimmy Kelly
> *Sent:* Monday, April 21, 2014 5:47 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List dorade box fastening
>
> have 1968 redline 41 by bruckmann mfgremoved dorades..,back in early
> 80swere fastened from below as well as from inside boxes...also
> glassedwithin boxwere not designed to be removed..had to have
> yard  ..cut them off...instead of new dorades went with aluminium  14 by 8
> inch hatches...alternated which way openedone of best changes
> madeespecially when in hot climates30 yrs later..lewmar hatches
> still in great shapealso less teak to maintain...with way yard
> installed hatches ...  length wise parallel to boat centerlineat least
> 2 can be open depending on direction of wave spray...have really worked
> wellalso look great...not what had in mind when project started...later
> replaced teak hatches with lewmar aluminium hatches..no more leaks when
> teak wood dried out in hot summer sun.good luck on your projecthave
> you decided on deck treatment?
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://w

Re: Stus-List Scope of work...

[Martin DeYoung]

Dave,

My comments are based on older C&Cs (early 70's) with vertical grain balsa laid 
up with polyester resin.  Your 1982 C&C likely has a few differences in 
construction.  It would be good to hear from owner that have worked on boats 
from the 80's.

>> is it a matter of "large" areas of wet surrounding the hole or is it 
>> generally just confined to local intrusion around the bolt holes? Meaning I 
>> guess, are you going in a removing wet core within reach of the original 
>> hardware bolt hole or are you cutting up the top layer of deck and going in 
>> and replacing the core?<<

Mostly we find very localized wet core around the hardware mounting holes.  
Water will run downhill and if the lay-up did not effectively seal each section 
of balsa or left a channel for the water to move through the core, the area of 
wet or damaged (rotten) core expands.  Check out Baltek's web site for details 
on how balsa is affected by water and how wet it has to be to lose significant 
strength.

>>... is the balsa rotten or is it "merely" wet"?<<

Calypso has both but mostly damp to wet.  When the exposure has been long term 
(over 10 years up to 30) some core has deteriorated to a "swamp" like dark 
gooey, smelly mess.  In all our work to date this type of core failure has been 
more prevalent in vertical locations or where water could enter the balsa and 
pool.

We use the surveyor's practice of tapping around and wet area found to 
determine how deteriorated the core is.  Dull hollow sounds are not good.  
Starting in a known good area with bright solid sounds then tapping around 
leading up to a known wet area that then goes dull is a good way to calibrate 
your ear.

> ... are you going in removing wet core within reach of the original hardware 
> bolt hole or are you cutting up the top layer of deck and going in and 
> replacing the core?<

We have been repairing from below as Calypso's inner fiberglass skin is 1/8" 
and the outer deck skin is ¼ to 3/8".  For damp to slightly wet but otherwise 
good condition core we are opening up the hardware hole to ¾" and drying with 
heat/air.  When dry enough we are hogging out more balsa then filling with an 
epoxy/filler mix, re-drilling when cured.

If the core has completely failed we open up (from the inside) space all around 
the wet area, often a 4" to 6" diameter hole is enough to get back to good 
core.  We mostly re-laminate with epoxy and glass not replacing the balsa 
unless the area is large enough to have a good separation of balsa and the 
mounting hole.

If the area to be repaired is large it may be faster to remove the top skin.

I am happy to clarify or answer additional question once you have poked around 
the suspect areas.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2014 5:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Scope of work...

Martin,

I'm planning on taking on my boat this summer the same job as you have 
undertaken.

This is just a general question but I'm wondering about what I may expect to 
find when I get started. My question is this: When you pull the deck hardware 
and find areas that need to fixed that have wet core, is it a matter of "large" 
areas of wet surrounding the hole or is it generally just confined to local 
intrusion around the bolt holes? Meaning I guess, are you going in a removing 
wet core within reach of the original hardware bolt hole or are you cutting up 
the top layer of deck and going in and replacing the core?

And as follow-on, is the balsa rotten or is it "merely" wet"? As I said, I say 
that because I'm wondering how much of the deck fiberglass I can expect to cut 
out and replace. I'm prepared for the worst...

Your observations would be welcome.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin's Overdue Refit

On Apr 21, 2014, at 9:17 PM, Martin DeYoung 
mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>> wrote:


Jimmy,

Thanks for the info based on your Bruckmann built Redline.  I will discuss the 
hatch conversion idea with Calypso's co-owner but I expect we will keep the 
teak dorade boxes.  One of our goals is to keep the boat mostly looking like it 
was when launched, just a little updated here and there.

> have you decided on deck treatment?<

I am planning to test Kiwi Grip (light gray) and EZPoxy 2 (color similar to the 
original off white) on a cockpit hatch.  I will be testing for how the paint 
applies with brush or roll/tip and how the Kiwi Grip looks/feels.  If the light 
grey non-skid area looks out of place we will stick with the existing all off 
white and use a custom color mix of Kiwi Grip or similar non-skid coating.

The original teak foredeck hatch was converted to a A&H 36"x36" back in the 
early 80's.  The mid and head A&H hatches were original from 1970.  All three 
opening A&H hatches were sent

Stus-List Core replacement

[Dennis C.]

Here's a few videos for any attempting core repairs.  Techniques vary.
Your exact technique will depend on your situation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAtjHjJhBV0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVViKMbvjDI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFpsncEt8SY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lEb2NoQnSo  (I don't like their technique
on this one.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lEb2NoQnSo

Enter various combinations of "wet deck rotten core replacement" for other
videos.  Don't assume any video shows proper techniques.  There are lots of
ways to replace core.

I've done 3 or 4 deck peels (Thankfully, none on Touche').  For a deck
peel, I use a Dremel MultiMax for a very narrow cut.  I try to cut the deck
a bit outside the presumed rotten area.  Remove the rotten core leaving an
inch or so inside the cut.  This will give you a sill to replace the cutout
piece so it matches the elevation of deck.  This is why I don't like the
4th video above.  That technique puts the new core under the old deck.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Scope of work...

[Martin DeYoung]

Dave,



I had some additional thoughts.



It is easy to pull one fastener of a piece of deck hardware and test the core.



We peer down the hole with a bright light and use a dental pick to test the 
core integrity.  Good core will look tan in color and be firm.  The longer the 
core has been wet it will darken and soften.



I suspect balsa core and polyester resin change chemistry during long term (10+ 
years) exposure to both fresh (rain water) and salt water.  The change seems to 
be towards acidic.  I have observed quick forming corrosion on tools and hole 
saws used on very wet and especially rotten core.  It also smells bad, very bad 
of old resin and swamp.  It will often corrode SS fasteners, sometimes severely.



As Dennis or Bob mentioned, a little wet core is not a big deal.  Rotten core 
that has totally failed, especially under/around high load deck hardware needs 
attention sooner than later.



Larger failed areas can allow increased flexibility in the hull and deck 
structure.  I found a large failed area under a white plastic cockpit opening 
port when I observed some stress cracks after a knockdown. (48 knot gust, boat 
knocked over far enough to have green water over the cockpit winches.)



I expect most boats could use the deck hardware pulled, the deck core inspected 
and the

hardware re-installed with new sealant every 10 years or so.  I expect our work 
on Calypso will allow her to survive another 30 years or longer.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle




From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Dave Godwin 
[dave.god...@me.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2014 5:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Scope of work...

Martin,

I’m planning on taking on my boat this summer the same job as you have 
undertaken.

This is just a general question but I’m wondering about what I may expect to 
find when I get started. My question is this: When you pull the deck hardware 
and find areas that need to fixed that have wet core, is it a matter of “large” 
areas of wet surrounding the hole or is it generally just confined to local 
intrusion around the bolt holes? Meaning I guess, are you going in a removing 
wet core within reach of the original hardware bolt hole or are you cutting up 
the top layer of deck and going in and replacing the core?

And as follow-on, is the balsa rotten or is it “merely” wet”? As I said, I say 
that because I’m wondering how much of the deck fiberglass I can expect to cut 
out and replace. I’m prepared for the worst...

Your observations would be welcome.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Apr 21, 2014, at 9:17 PM, Martin DeYoung 
mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>> wrote:

Jimmy,

Thanks for the info based on your Bruckmann built Redline.  I will discuss the 
hatch conversion idea with Calypso’s co-owner but I expect we will keep the 
teak dorade boxes.  One of our goals is to keep the boat mostly looking like it 
was when launched, just a little updated here and there.

> have you decided on deck treatment?<

I am planning to test Kiwi Grip (light gray) and EZPoxy 2 (color similar to the 
original off white) on a cockpit hatch.  I will be testing for how the paint 
applies with brush or roll/tip and how the Kiwi Grip looks/feels.  If the light 
grey non-skid area looks out of place we will stick with the existing all off 
white and use a custom color mix of Kiwi Grip or similar non-skid coating.

The original teak foredeck hatch was converted to a A&H 36”x36” back in the 
early 80’s.  The mid and head A&H hatches were original from 1970.  All three 
opening A&H hatches were sent to Hammerhead for refirb.  I will report back on 
how they look when the 90lbs of hatches and packaging arrive back next week.

By the time we are finished over 200 holes in the deck will have been drilled 
out and refilled with epoxy.  Some work days we have found more old holes that 
were painted over than we filled.  Must be each past owner moved deck hardware 
around several times.  Most of the old polyester based filler (“bondo”) is 
failing and allows water to seep by.  All deck hardware is being removed to 
inspect for water intrusion.  Most areas checked so far have some amount of wet 
or damaged core.  We are getting faster at repairing and sealing the areas.  
High load areas will be rebuilt with epoxy and glass so no further water damage 
will occur.

The interior will be sanded or stripped (it is painted Herreshoff style, white 
with teak trim) then repainted with white Brightside.  If time allows we will 
rebuilt the “stick built” sole supports.  After decades of racing and cruising, 
crew weight upon the floorboards causes enough creaking to be quite annoying 
when someone does a middle of the night anchor check.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf O