Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

2014-05-27 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Don’t forget to properly fuse the wire within seven inches of the connection to 
+12VDC!!!  This fuse should be sized to protect the wire going to the pump 
switch.  There should also be a fuse closer to the pump, sized per the pump 
instructions; this is to protect the pump from overheat/fire in case the shaft 
or impeller seizes.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 26, 2014, at 10:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 Install a Rule Model 43 rocker switch in a convenient but out of the way 
 location.  Wire the switch's positive to one of the battery cables on the 
 back of your battery switch (not the common, the one marked #1 or #2) and the 
 negative to ground (for the indicator light).  By connecting to the #1 or #2 
 connection, you're essentially connecting to one of the batteries.  As a 
 rule, I don't like to connect directly to a battery inside the battery box.

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

2014-05-27 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
I also recommend the Whale.  High capacity in a small package.

Joel

On Tuesday, May 27, 2014, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Don’t forget to properly fuse the wire within seven inches of the
 connection to +12VDC!!!  This fuse should be sized to protect the wire
 going to the pump switch.  There should also be a fuse closer to the pump,
 sized per the pump instructions; this is to protect the pump from
 overheat/fire in case the shaft or impeller seizes.

 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 On May 26, 2014, at 10:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.comjavascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');
 wrote:

 Install a Rule Model 43 rocker switch in a convenient but out of the way
 location.  Wire the switch's positive to one of the battery cables on the
 back of your battery switch (not the common, the one marked #1 or #2) and
 the negative to ground (for the indicator light).  By connecting to the #1
 or #2 connection, you're essentially connecting to one of the batteries.
 As a rule, I don't like to connect directly to a battery inside the battery
 box.




-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Seacocks

2014-05-27 Thread Prime Interest via CnC-List
Aqualarm makes a variety of alarms for bilge and engine monitoring. 

 

The exhaust monitor I have is part 20245 'Wet Exhaust Overheat Alarm Kit' 

 

http://aqualarm.net/index.php?main_page=product_info
http://aqualarm.net/index.php?main_page=product_infocPath=5products_id=11
 cPath=5products_id=11

 

 

 

thanks

 

ed vanderkruk

 

 

s/v Prime Interest

1982 CC 38 Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 

cid:image001.jpg@01C8A05F.9AF64FF0
LF 38, S/N: 229

 

primeinter...@gmail.com

www.primeinterest.blogspot.com

 

From: Dr. Mark Bodnar [mailto:drbod...@accesswave.ca] 
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 8:32 PM
To: Prime Interest; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Seacocks

 


Seems like my temp alarm is not working.  I'll be trying to check that issue
out in the near future.  For now I have a point an read temp sensor that
I'll have on the boat to check how things a running the next few times.

I'd be interested to learn more about your exhaust hose temp sensor.

Mark




 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 26/05/2014 11:31 AM, Prime Interest via CnC-List wrote:

Mark,

 

I'm surprised that your temperature alarm didn't eventually go off at some
point in your adventure. Maybe something to check if you didn't get the
alarm.

 

You should probably check that the water pump impellor hasn't lost any vanes
when running dry and now stuck in your heat exchanger. Also check that your
lift muffler and hoses have survived the hot exhaust. 

 

I have an independent temperature alarm on the exhaust hose which will
activate well before the engine temp alarm alerts you of a similar coolant
problem.

 

 

 

thanks

 

ed vanderkruk

 

 

s/v Prime Interest

1982 CC 38 Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 

cid:image001.jpg@01C8A05F.9AF64FF0
LF 38, S/N: 229

 

primeinter...@gmail.com

www.primeinterest.blogspot.com

 

 

On 25 May 2014 20:13, M Bod via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


OK. Boat got off the dock today. After a bunch of engine work, new hoses and
new fuel tank (all installed by mechanic) everything is supposed to be
working smoothly.

Well. Getting off the dock was not so smooth. Couldn't sort out why roller
furler was jamming for a bit.
Finally sorted the issue, started the engine, made sure all looked good
(exhaust a little louder than I expected, but not bad).

Off we went (had a friend along to assist moving the boat from the marina to
a nearby cove where it can stay an extra week).

10 min out I see some smoke riding through the companion way. Throttle down.
Full off engine cowling. Coolant everywhere! Must have a leak.

We turn around to limp back to the dock. I'm looking at the mess with the
coolant boiling over when I realize (OK remember mechanic warned me) the
seacock for the engine is CLOSED!!!

Opened the seacock.  Everything cooled off. We had burned off much of our
coolant - so I poured in a 1/2 litre water bottle. Kept the engine at low
rpm and made the run to the cove.

Little hitch at the end.  Went to furl the jib but too much sail and not
enough line on the furling drum. Only managed to pack away 2/3 of the sail.
Solved that by doing 10 clockwise circles in the bay to wrap the sail around
the forestay! Dirty, but it worked.
All told we survived. Feel like a royal idiot for forgetting the seacock.
Had pretty good water shooting out of the muffler after - but I figure I
better pull the impellor and check/replace it anyway.

I had checked the exhaust when we started - saw splashes. But later realized
I was looking at the air exhaust hitting the water and causing a little
splash.

Still a little shell shocked from the experience but thinking I'll likely
remember the seacock in the future!

Mark






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Re: Stus-List First sail

2014-05-27 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
Or those of us who have engines with stop solenoid so instead of cables.

Sent from my iPad

 On May 26, 2014, at 13:31, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I would venture to ask all who never tried starting the engine with the stop 
 cable pulled out to raise hands. I am afraid that the list of those who 
 haven’t would be short and include mostly people with Atomics (;-)
  
 Marek
  
 From: Chuck S via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 12:35 PM
 To: Danny Haughey ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
 Subject: Re: Stus-List First sail
  
 Hey Danny,
 Quite an exciting trip.  Farley Mowat wrote that the adventure starts when 
 everything goes wrong.  Don't be too hard on yourself.  It was a learning 
 experience and success in the end without outside assistance earns you some 
 credit. The more you use the boat, the more you develop good habits that 
 provide less adventure and more fun.  
  
 When I first got my boat I had some similar panic situations you can learn 
 from:
  
 1)  Left the dock without warming up the engine and had to restart it several 
 times manuvering through the marina.  Now I start the engine a good 10 min 
 while I single up lines and remove the sail cover and prepare halyards etc.  
 I don't leave the slip or the mooring until it's running smooth and pumping 
 normal.
  
 2)  Tried to restart the engine with the kill cable pulled out.  It is 
 located behind the helm and a few times after sailing I would forget to push 
 it in.  The engine would turn over but with no fuel, would not start.  My 
 wife never lets me forget that.  Now I developed a habit and push it in, 
 after stopping the  engine.   And I check that before starting too.   So many 
 little things.
  
 3) Pulled the genoa sheet to unfurl the genoa and the furling line jams,  
 either a hockle in the block or a snag somewhere.  Now I flake the furling 
 line tail in figure eights, inside a sheet bag and it runs free.  
  
 There are so many things to remember, you need a written checklist.  After 
 running the boat many times you will develop a habit, like charging the cell 
 phone, the handheld VHF, the handheld GPS, the  night before a trip.  Another 
 tip I can share:  Clean and Lubricate everything so it works well and it will 
 save you a lot of heartache and panic situations.  
  
 Let us know how the second sailing goes. 
  
  
 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Atlantic City, NJ
  
 From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: paradigmat...@gmail.com, CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 10:40:18 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List First sail
  
 Thanks for the recount mark.  I bet that was a VERY long 30 minutes!
  
 That's why it's called a shakedown cruise!  Glad you sorted it all out!
  
 I cringed a little when you said you poured spring water into the cooling 
 system.  I just remember what trap water used to do to my first car.  The 
 coolant was always rust red.  I try to keep a gallon of distilled water  
 coolant mix on board after all the leaks I had after installing the fresh 
 water system and all the crap SS house clamps failing...  I know that smoke 
 from below scenario quite well! 
  
 I can totally see you doing doughnuts to roll the head sail!  Awesome!
  
  
 From my Android phone 
  
 
  Original message 
 From: Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Date: 05/26/2014 1:07 AM (GMT-05:00) 
 To: M Bod drbod...@accesswave.ca,1 CnC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List First sail 
 
  
 Either leave the engine seacock open, or hang the ignition key off the 
 seacock handle. Me, I'm useless and we have a Yanmar, so I can start the 
 engine with pretty much anything I have in my pocket including lint. I leave 
 the seacock open. I know this makes me a bad person and I can live with that. 
  
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC
  
  
 On 25 May 2014 20:13, M Bod via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 OK. Boat got off the dock today. After a bunch of engine work, new hoses and 
 new fuel tank (all installed by mechanic) everything is supposed to be 
 working smoothly.
 
 Well. Getting off the dock was not so smooth. Couldn't sort out why roller 
 furler was jamming for a bit.
 Finally sorted the issue, started the engine, made sure all looked good 
 (exhaust a little louder than I expected, but not bad).
 
 Off we went (had a friend along to assist moving the boat from the marina to 
 a nearby cove where it can stay an extra week).
 
 10 min out I see some smoke riding through the companion way. Throttle down. 
 Full off engine cowling. Coolant everywhere! Must have a leak.
 
 We turn around to limp back to the dock. I'm looking at the mess with the 
 coolant boiling over when I realize (OK remember mechanic warned me) the 
 seacock for the engine is CLOSED!!!
 
 Opened the seacock.  Everything cooled off. We had burned off much of our 
 coolant - so I poured ina 

Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

2014-05-27 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List
I have had so many of those rule pumps fail on me, I went to a pair of gusher 
diaphragm pumps, mounted up high and dry, with hoses to the bilge.  I ran a 
rule float switch to one which failed that first year.  Now I have sea choice 
float switch that has been working for 2 seasons, going on 3.  So, I have one 
gusher with an automatic switch that I can turn on manually, a manually 
controlled gusher and a manual whale pump in the cock pit, all installed out of 
the bilge.  I have a goal to keep the bilge as empty as possible.  The PO found 
the bilge a great place for a wire chase

Danny


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: M Bod via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: 05/26/2014  11:18 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: CC list cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re:  Bilge Pump Cleaning 
 
Rich,
Thanks for the heads up. I was just online tonight looking at bilge pumps. 
My CS 30 doesn't have an automatic bilge pump, just a manual. 
I feel like I should add an automatic pump, but I wonder what size. 
My boat has a very flat bilge with no 'deep' spots at all and maybe 4 space 
under the floor boards.

What size bilge pump is appropriate? (And will fit)
Suggestions? Would you the the 'integrated electronic' switch or the old 
fashioned float?
And suggestions on installation? I gather I should have it pump out near the 
transom above water level (maybe Y it onto the drain from the manual pump?) Do 
you 'direct wire' it to the batteries and bypass the panel?

Mark

On 26 May 2014 23:34, Rich Knowles via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 My  bilge pump and I had a small altercation this weekend. It’s a 2000 gph 
 PAR unit that I have had on the boat for at least 10 years. It has never 
 given me problems until it recently decided not to pump any water. The motor 
 ran just fine, and I could see the water in the bilge being stirred around, 
 but nothing was being sent overboard. It acted as though it had an airlock 
 with the impeller only partially submerged. 

 I dismantled it and found that the small slit that acts as an air vent at the 
 top of the plastic impeller housing  was completely plugged. This prevented 
 any trapped air from escaping from the pump body. Once I cleaned the crud out 
 of the vent slit, it performed as new. Good for another ten years, thank you. 

 Just a note to tuck away in case anyone has a similar “failure”. 

 Rich Knowles 
 INDIGO LF38 
 Halifax, NS. 






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Re: Stus-List First sail

2014-05-27 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Anybody do a retrofit from cable to solenoid?  I looked in to it but feared
complications and wasted money?
On May 27, 2014 8:20 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 Or those of us who have engines with stop solenoid so instead of cables.

 Sent from my iPad

 On May 26, 2014, at 13:31, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I would venture to ask all who never tried starting the engine with the
 stop cable pulled out to raise hands. I am afraid that the list of those
 who haven't would be short and include mostly people with Atomics (;-)

 Marek

  *From:* Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Monday, May 26, 2014 12:35 PM
 *To:* Danny Haughey djhaug...@juno.com ; CNC boat owners, 
 cnc-listcnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List First sail

  Hey Danny,
 Quite an exciting trip.  Farley Mowat wrote that the adventure starts when
 everything goes wrong.  Don't be too hard on yourself.  It was a learning
 experience and success in the end without outside assistance earns you some
 credit. The more you use the boat, the more you develop good habits that
 provide less adventure and more fun.

 When I first got my boat I had some similar panic situations you can learn
 from:

 1)  *Left the dock without warming up the engine* and had to restart it
 several times manuvering through the marina.  Now I start the engine a good
 10 min while I single up lines and remove the sail cover and prepare
 halyards etc.  I don't leave the slip or the mooring until it's running
 smooth and pumping normal.

 2)  *Tried to restart the engine with the kill cable pulled out*.  It is
 located behind the helm and a few times after sailing I would forget to
 push it in.  The engine would turn over but with no fuel, would not start.
 My wife never lets me forget that.  Now I developed a habit and push it in,
 after stopping the engine.   And I check that before starting too.   So
 many little things.

 3) *Pulled the genoa sheet to unfurl the genoa and the furling line jams*,
 either a hockle in the block or a snag somewhere.  Now I flake the furling
 line tail in figure eights, inside a sheet bag and it runs free.

 There are so many things to remember, you need a written checklist.  After
 running the boat many times you will develop a habit, like charging the
 cell phone, the handheld VHF, the handheld GPS, the night before a trip.
 Another tip I can share:  Clean and Lubricate everything so it works well
 and it will save you a lot of heartache and panic situations.

 Let us know how the second sailing goes.


 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Atlantic City, NJ

 --
 *From: *CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *To: *paradigmat...@gmail.com, CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent: *Monday, May 26, 2014 10:40:18 AM
 *Subject: *Re: Stus-List First sail

 Thanks for the recount mark.  I bet that was a VERY long 30 minutes!

 That's why it's called a shakedown cruise!  Glad you sorted it all out!

 I cringed a little when you said you poured spring water into the cooling
 system.  I just remember what trap water used to do to my first car.  The
 coolant was always rust red.  I try to keep a gallon of distilled water 
 coolant mix on board after all the leaks I had after installing the fresh
 water system and all the crap SS house clamps failing...  I know that
 smoke from below scenario quite well!

 I can totally see you doing doughnuts to roll the head sail!  Awesome!


 From my Android phone


  Original message 
 From: Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: 05/26/2014 1:07 AM (GMT-05:00)
 To: M Bod drbod...@accesswave.ca,1 CnC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List First sail


 Either leave the engine seacock open, or hang the ignition key off the
 seacock handle. Me, I'm useless and we have a Yanmar, so I can start the
 engine with pretty much anything I have in my pocket including lint. I
 leave the seacock open. I know this makes me a bad person and I can live
 with that.

 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC


 On 25 May 2014 20:13, M Bod via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


 OK. Boat got off the dock today. After a bunch of engine work, new hoses
 and new fuel tank (all installed by mechanic) everything is supposed to be
 working smoothly.

 Well. Getting off the dock was not so smooth. Couldn't sort out why
 roller furler was jamming for a bit.
 Finally sorted the issue, started the engine, made sure all looked good
 (exhaust a little louder than I expected, but not bad).

 Off we went (had a friend along to assist moving the boat from the marina
 to a nearby cove where it can stay an extra week).

 10 min out I see some smoke riding through the companion way. Throttle
 down. Full off engine cowling. Coolant everywhere! Must have a leak.

 We turn around to limp back to the dock. I'm looking at the mess with the
 coolant boiling over 

Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?

2014-05-27 Thread Curtis via CnC-List
I have a CC30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my left on
the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both.
Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable?



thanks Curtis



-- 
All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
open eyes, to make it possible.

T. E. Lawrence

.
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

2014-05-27 Thread Rich Knowles via CnC-List
All this is good advice. The thing I'm finding not so good is that, while we 
all faithfully install tinned marine wire in hopes of staving off corrosion, 
equipment and bilge pump makers still frequently use untinned copper wire that 
is very prone to corrosion. Shame!

Rich

 On May 27, 2014, at 10:51, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Dennis had a good call with heat shrink and painting with liquid electrical 
 tape.  I took made my heat shrink about two inches longer than the 
 connection, and injected marine silicone inside with a syringe.  When the 
 shrunk, silicone gushed out the ends.  It has been wet often.
 
 Maybe I'm just lucky, but my 12 year old Rule pumps and float switches are 
 still doing fine.  I have a little 500 as the primary pump, and a big one 
 that stays up on a platform about six inches off the bilge, just in case.  
 The 500 does get clogged up with bilge gunk, and I just replaced it because 
 they can't be taken apart and cleaned out.One thing I do is take a garden 
 hose to 3/4 adapter and flush the hose out with high pressure dock water.  
 I'll also backflush the pump with the garden hose.
 
 Most of the float switches I've seen fail are really due to bad wiring.  I've 
 seen plain crimp connections just sitting in the bilge, and it's no wonder 
 the wire rots out.  The worst, if you can believe it, was just wires twisted 
 together and covered with electrical tape.  No kidding.  I found that down 
 here in Mexico, as the sport fishing boat was sinking at the dock.  The guy 
 came back to town, and when I told him that I'd saved his boat he didn't even 
 say thanks.  Power boaters.  (It probably didn't help that I said whoever did 
 the wiring ought to be taken out and shot.)
 
 Wal
 
 
 
 you CnC-List wrote:
 I ran a rule float switch to one which failed that first year.
 
 
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Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

2014-05-27 Thread Andrew Burton via CnC-List
A good rule of thumb is to max out the RPMs when you're under way. Note the
number. About 75% of that is a good cruising RPM but many people will go a
little lower. IE if you max out at 3200 RPM, then 2400 would be fine, but I
would probably run at 2200 to conserve fuel. Running at max for brief
periods won't harm the engine. (and might do it a little bit of good) It is
good to max out your RPMs on a fairly regular basis. A reduction in max
RPMs will be a signal that you have a problem somewhere (it could be as
simple as a fouled prop).

Andy
CC 40
Peregrine


On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 12:16 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Listers,

 Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on your diesel
 engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35.

 I used to stay around 2300, but people tell me diesels like to be worked
 and I could go higher. My mechanic said don’t be afraid to go 2500 or more,
 but I wonder if he’s just looking for more repair income :-)

 How much do you push your engine?


 All the best,

 Edd


  Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


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-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

2014-05-27 Thread dwight via CnC-List
Maybe no problem for the diesel with higher rpm but everything connected to
it also sees the higher rpm.I like to find the rpm sweet spot where
everything seems to be running smoth with low vibration, go a hundred rpm
higher or lower and things will vibrate more on Alianna.actually there seems
to be 2 sweet spots, one around 1500 for slow leaisurely steaming in calm
condidtions and another around 2500 for rougher conditions.however I can
make the boat move faster with higher rpm but vibrations increase and I
don't like the added noise.I have a 3 blade Autoprop and I figure that my
prop has preferred rotation speeds or sweet spots where balance is best and
vibrations are minimized and all sounds right but that's just a guess

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: May 27, 2014 1:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

 

Listers,

 

Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on
your diesel engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35. 

 

I used to stay around 2300, but people tell me diesels like to
be worked and I could go higher. My mechanic said don't be afraid to go 2500
or more, but I wonder if he's just looking for more repair income :-)

 

How much do you push your engine? 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ 

 

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Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

2014-05-27 Thread Andrew Burton via CnC-List
I understand about sweet spots, but I'd say if you are getting that much 
vibration, something's out of whack.

Andy
CC 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

 On May 27, 2014, at 12:26, dwight via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Maybe no problem for the diesel with higher rpm but everything connected to 
 it also sees the higher rpm…I like to find the rpm sweet spot where 
 everything seems to be running smoth with low vibration, go a hundred rpm 
 higher or lower and things will vibrate more on Alianna…actually there seems 
 to be 2 sweet spots, one around 1500 for slow leaisurely steaming in calm 
 condidtions and another around 2500 for rougher conditions…however I can make 
 the boat move faster with higher rpm but vibrations increase and I don’t like 
 the added noise…I have a 3 blade Autoprop and I figure that my prop has 
 preferred rotation speeds or sweet spots where balance is best and vibrations 
 are minimized and all sounds right but that’s just a guess
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd 
 Schillay via CnC-List
 Sent: May 27, 2014 1:16 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine
  
 Listers,
  
 Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on 
 your diesel engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35. 
  
 I used to stay around 2300, but people tell me diesels like to be 
 worked and I could go higher. My mechanic said don’t be afraid to go 2500 or 
 more, but I wonder if he’s just looking for more repair income :-)
  
 How much do you push your engine? 
  
 
 All the best,
  
 Edd
  
  
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY 
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
  
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Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?

2014-05-27 Thread Nate Flesness via CnC-List
In case it helps, just replacing mine too.
Same pedestal control setup, slightly different diesel (2QM15 with
Hurth/Kanzaki transmission).
Morse teleflex, 10 foot length.

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 11:09 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Curtis, dig the old cable out and go to your marine supplier with the old
 one to make sure you have the right ends and length.

 Rich

  On May 27, 2014, at 12:44, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:
 
  I have a CC30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my left
 on the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both.
  Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable?
 
 
 
  thanks Curtis
 
 
 
  --
  All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
 dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
 open eyes, to make it possible.
 
  T. E. Lawrence
 
  .
 
 
 
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Stus-List Bilge pump installation

2014-05-27 Thread Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List

I had a Rule automatic pump where the water level is determined by
impellers' resistance to turning or motor load.  Mine ran 24/7 because the
bilge crud would foul the impeller and create enough resistance to fool it
into permanently sensing water in the bilge.  Cleaning the Impeller /
flushing the bilge was a very temporary fix as more crud always seemed to
re-appear.


For the switch:
I ended up going with  Water Witch switch
https://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Products/BilgeSwitches.html
  It's an electronic switch but it's known as the best.  They are
warrantied for 7 years and are used by the Coast Guard.  So far it's been
flawless.

For the Pump.
I went for a manual switch version Johnson 750 GPH.   That's the largest
pump I could get into the little sump area my boat has for a pump.

I had to do away with the one way valve as it was not priming / flowing
efficiently so it burps back about 2 cups of water into the sump when It's
done pumping..   I can live with that and so far it's been very reliable.

I would like to add a diaphragm type pump with it's own through hull
connected to a high water sensor as a backup one day but that's pretty far
down the priority list..

As I am writing this my desk feels like it's heaving as I spent the long
weekend on the boat :-)


-Francois
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, Georgia___
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Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?

2014-05-27 Thread Curtis via CnC-List
That was going to be the plan if I did not get a confident answer.
 I just didn't want to down the boat too long.
Thanks.





On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 12:57 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 In case it helps, just replacing mine too.
 Same pedestal control setup, slightly different diesel (2QM15 with
 Hurth/Kanzaki transmission).
 Morse teleflex, 10 foot length.

 Nate
 Sarah Jean
 1980 30-1
 Siskiwit Bay Marina
 Lake Superior


 On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 11:09 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Curtis, dig the old cable out and go to your marine supplier with the old
 one to make sure you have the right ends and length.

 Rich

  On May 27, 2014, at 12:44, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:
 
  I have a CC30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my left
 on the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both.
  Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable?
 
 
 
  thanks Curtis
 
 
 
  --
  All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
 dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
 open eyes, to make it possible.
 
  T. E. Lawrence
 
  .
 
 
 
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-- 
All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
open eyes, to make it possible.

T. E. Lawrence

.
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Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?

2014-05-27 Thread Gary Nylander via CnC-List
The cable is pretty easy to measure. The one end is hooked to the shift lever 
and the other to the transmission. You can follow the old one and get your 
length. It is (as was said) a Morse cable and is available at many boat stores. 
It is threaded at each end - you take the ends off the old and put on the new.

The biggest problem is getting the pedestal apart to get to the lever end - I 
had to use heat and solvent (PB Blaster or WD40) and an impact screwdriver to 
get the flat plate off the top of the casting which holds the lever.

Don't scrimp on the length, if you are uncertain, buy the next longer cable, it 
can always run a bit loose in the lazerette area. I don't remember the lengthy, 
and was replacing the throttle cable which may be a different length.

Gary
#593
  - Original Message - 
  From: Curtis via CnC-List 
  To: Nate Flesness ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 1:14 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?


  That was going to be the plan if I did not get a confident answer.
   I just didn't want to down the boat too long. 
  Thanks.









  On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 12:57 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

In case it helps, just replacing mine too.
Same pedestal control setup, slightly different diesel (2QM15 with 
Hurth/Kanzaki transmission).

Morse teleflex, 10 foot length.


Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior



On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 11:09 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Curtis, dig the old cable out and go to your marine supplier with the old 
one to make sure you have the right ends and length.

  Rich


   On May 27, 2014, at 12:44, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:
  
   I have a CC30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my left 
on the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both.
   Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable?
  
  
  
   thanks Curtis
  
  
  
   --
   All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty 
recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the 
dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open 
eyes, to make it possible.
  
   T. E. Lawrence
  
   .
  
  
  

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  -- 
  All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty 
recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the 
dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open 
eyes, to make it possible.

  T. E. Lawrence

  . 






--


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Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

2014-05-27 Thread Curtis via CnC-List
Not always. Harmonics on a 30 year boat need the sweet spot.


On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 12:35 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I understand about sweet spots, but I'd say if you are getting that much
 vibration, something's out of whack.

 Andy
 CC 40
 Peregrine


 Andrew Burton
 61 W Narragansett
 Newport, RI
 USA02840

 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
 +401 965-5260

 On May 27, 2014, at 12:26, dwight via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

 Maybe no problem for the diesel with higher rpm but everything
 connected to it also sees the higher rpm...I like to find the rpm sweet spot
 where everything seems to be running smoth with low vibration, go a hundred
 rpm higher or lower and things will vibrate more on Alianna...actually there
 seems to be 2 sweet spots, one around 1500 for slow leaisurely steaming in
 calm condidtions and another around 2500 for rougher conditions...however I
 can make the boat move faster with higher rpm but vibrations increase and I
 don't like the added noise...I have a 3 blade Autoprop and I figure that my
 prop has preferred rotation speeds or sweet spots where balance is best and
 vibrations are minimized and all sounds right but that's just a guess


  --

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
 cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edd Schillay via CnC-List
 *Sent:* May 27, 2014 1:16 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine



 Listers,



 Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on
 your diesel engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35.



 I used to stay around 2300, but people tell me diesels like
 to be worked and I could go higher. My mechanic said don't be afraid to go
 2500 or more, but I wonder if he's just looking for more repair income :-)



 How much do you push your engine?



 All the best,



 Edd





 Edd M. Schillay

 Starship Enterprise

 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

 City Island, NY

 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/



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-- 
All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
open eyes, to make it possible.

T. E. Lawrence

.
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Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?

2014-05-27 Thread Nate Flesness via CnC-List
My even bigger problem (after working hard getting the top plate off as
noted, PB Blaster, square-shafted screwdriver in a  crescent wrench aided
by a vise-grip on the head of the screw at the same time - takes only three
hands) was getting the cable free from the retaining pin. We ended up
drilling a new hole in the side of the vertical casting to press the pin
out, after removing the hair-diameter cotter with small needle nose. I'll
consider this newly-drilled hole a nice feature the mfg. forgot to include,
until someone knows of a better way to get these apart... And by the way
the freed parts make a nice ting sound when they fall down the tube into
your after bilge recommend a dishpan or something be placed underneath
first

Nate


On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 1:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  The cable is pretty easy to measure. The one end is hooked to the shift
 lever and the other to the transmission. You can follow the old one and get
 your length. It is (as was said) a Morse cable and is available at many
 boat stores. It is threaded at each end - you take the ends off the old and
 put on the new.

 The biggest problem is getting the pedestal apart to get to the lever end
 - I had to use heat and solvent (PB Blaster or WD40) and an impact
 screwdriver to get the flat plate off the top of the casting which holds
 the lever.

 Don't scrimp on the length, if you are uncertain, buy the next longer
 cable, it can always run a bit loose in the lazerette area. I don't
 remember the lengthy, and was replacing the throttle cable which may be a
 different length.

 Gary
 #593

 - Original Message -
 *From:* Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *To:* Nate Flesness nateflesn...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Tuesday, May 27, 2014 1:14 PM
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?

 That was going to be the plan if I did not get a confident answer.
  I just didn't want to down the boat too long.
 Thanks.





 On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 12:57 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 In case it helps, just replacing mine too.
 Same pedestal control setup, slightly different diesel (2QM15 with
 Hurth/Kanzaki transmission).
 Morse teleflex, 10 foot length.

 Nate
 Sarah Jean
 1980 30-1
 Siskiwit Bay Marina
 Lake Superior


 On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 11:09 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Curtis, dig the old cable out and go to your marine supplier with the
 old one to make sure you have the right ends and length.

 Rich

  On May 27, 2014, at 12:44, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:
 
  I have a CC30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my left
 on the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both.
  Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable?
 
 
 
  thanks Curtis
 
 
 
  --
  All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
 dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
 open eyes, to make it possible.
 
  T. E. Lawrence
 
  .
 
 
 
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 --
 All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
 dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
 open eyes, to make it possible.

 T. E. Lawrence

 .



  --

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Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

2014-05-27 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
Wal:  you must be lucky or I am unlucky, my Rule bilge pump float switches last 
from one to 3 years and this replacement frequency has been going on for the 27 
years I've owned my boat!  (My last Rule bilge pump lasted about 15 years 
though--real good service!). I am switching to a completely enclosed sensing 
type of switch made by Johnson--I hope it lasts much longer!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame
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Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

2014-05-27 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
I have an M35B in Imzadi. Max RPM is 3000 for that engine. IIRC the max torque 
is between 2400 and 2600 RPM - which is consistent with the rule of thumb that 
max torque is at about 80% of max RPM.

Your engine will thank you if you use it regularly and with significant load. 
Idling for extended periods to charge batteries, it running for long periods at 
low RPMs is not good for it. But 2300 is pretty close to 2400-2500, so you are 
probably not doing significant harm. Just don't be afraid of going to 2500.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

 On May 27, 2014, at 12:16, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Listers,
 
   Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on your 
 diesel engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35. 
 
   I used to stay around 2300, but people tell me diesels like to be 
 worked and I could go higher. My mechanic said don’t be afraid to go 2500 or 
 more, but I wonder if he’s just looking for more repair income :-)
 
   How much do you push your engine? 
 
 
   All the best,
 
   Edd
 
 
   Edd M. Schillay
   Starship Enterprise
   CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
   City Island, NY 
   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
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Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?

2014-05-27 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
Or go to your reputable auto parts store with the old cable. A Teledyne cable 
is a Teledyne cable. And probably less at the auto parts store than at a boat 
supplier - and more likely to be in stock instead of a special order.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

 On May 27, 2014, at 12:09, Rich Knowles via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Curtis, dig the old cable out and go to your marine supplier with the old one 
 to make sure you have the right ends and length. 
 
 Rich
 
 On May 27, 2014, at 12:44, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I have a CC30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my left on 
 the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both.
 Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable? 
 
 
 
 thanks Curtis
 
 
 
 -- 
 All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty 
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the 
 dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with 
 open eyes, to make it possible.
 
 T. E. Lawrence
 
 . 
 
 
 
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Stus-List need adapter to connect mixing elbow 1.5 OD to muffler 1.25 OD

2014-05-27 Thread Nate Flesness via CnC-List
Finishing reinstalling my Yanmar 2QM15 in my 30-1, I need to connect the
official Yanmar mixing elbow (OD 1.5) to the orig equipment metal muffler
tube (OD 1.25). Anyone have a handy source for a suitable adapter? I have
high temp radiator style hoses in both ID sizes.

The P.O had a bizarre collection of hardware store galvanized pipe
connecting a homemade elbow to the muffler. The pipes always leaked a
little. I'm trying to get back to something resembling the original
setup.

Thanks

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
SIskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior
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Stus-List River cruise

2014-05-27 Thread J.P. via CnC-List
All,

 

Just wanted to share some of this weekend's Memorial Day trip. as some of
you may remember, I have Gabriela, a CC 34' that is homeport on the Snake
River in Washington. 

 

I know it seems weird, but I moved here from California where week long
sails in the Big Blue Pacific were commonplace and everyone had a sailboat.
I needed my fix, so I bought a CC 34 in Seattle and moved it to my home
marina. Needless to say during the move I learned about low clearances under
bridges and trying to dock in extreme currents. 

 

This past weekend we took Gabriela for a cruise. All last fall we refitted,
cleaned, painted, and generally dressed up the 1978 beauty. This was the
first out of town trip we took.not much of a trip only about 25 miles down
river, but it was a classic trip none the less. The winter runoff from the
snow melt in the mountains of Idaho, Oregon, and Washington have made the
Snake river a swirling cauldron of tree stumps, broken branches, muddy water
and all the nastiness that happens during the runoff days.

 

The neighbor in the slip next to mine is a seasoned river captain has had
his commercial license to take 40-60ft jet boats with up to 50 passengers on
them up river to a place called Hells Canyon. He owns a Catalina 36 he lives
aboard. He said don't do it, the river is a mess. the extra current made
the water roil around the bridge emplacements, and there was a whole forest
floating down the rapidly moving Snake. 

 

I took it as a challenge :) 

 

We left around noon and made good a speed over the ground (or water as it
were) of 9.5 knots. The wind was blowing from the east, the Yanmar was
pushing us downstream at a good clip and we had the winds at our back (from
the east). We made 25 miles in just over 2.5 hours. Since marinas and docks
on the snake are far and few between, especially one that can handle the
draft of a CC 34, we decided to anchor. We found an eddy ( a back flow in
the river made by coves in the shore line and actually let the boat point
WEST instead of EAST as the flow of the current would indicate. We set a bow
anchor and a stern anchor in 40' of water, fired up the BBQ and the stereo
(there is no cell service or TV or Radio for that matter). and had steaks
and corn on the cob courtesy of the BBQ grill on the back rail. 

 

Because the river got deeper here (around 125 feet) the water flowed less on
the surface, and more down deep. and the junk floating in the water seemed
to disperse more. by the next day, it was clear and clean water and the
junk had washed down the river to the Columbia. 

 

During the night, a small front moved in and dropped a little rain on us,
but we were snug inside the dry and cozy cabin. We had put memory foam
mattresses under all the sleeping berths and we slept the sleep of angels.
In the morning, the coyotes woke us up, and we fixed a breakfast on the
stove in the galley, pulled up anchor and headed back up river. 

 

Expecting a slight westerly we were pleasantly surprised when the wind was
pretty fresh at around 10mph from the west consistently with gusts to 20mph.
this pushed Gabriela along at an average of 5.5 knts AGAINST the current.we
sailed in the shallowest part of the river as we could, thus keeping out of
the fastest part of the flow. 

 

In the end, we made the 25 miles back home in about 4.5 hours with more than
half the trip under sail. It was a challenge dodging the flotsam in the
water, but we did it without even getting close to a log. (the river can be
over a half mile wide in some places.) as much of it had washed past us
during the night.


The return was sunny and 75 degrees with a nice tail wind mostly and a great
day sailing. The boar was solid, the handling was superb, and the sail plan
was perfect for what we needed. 

 

Thanks for reading --- hope to see you in our water some day.

 

JP

S/V Gabriela

1978 CC 34

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Re: Stus-List River cruise

2014-05-27 Thread Richard N. Bush via CnC-List
JP; your description was quite similar to what we get around here on the Ohio 
River; except for Coyote part! Happy sailing.


Richard
1985 37 CB

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255



-Original Message-
From: J.P. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tue, May 27, 2014 4:23 pm
Subject: Stus-List River cruise



All,
 
Just wanted to share some of this weekend’s Memorial Day trip… as some of you 
may remember, I have Gabriela, a CC 34’ that is homeport on the Snake River in 
Washington… 
 
I know it seems weird, but I moved here from California where week long sails 
in the Big Blue Pacific were commonplace and everyone had a sailboat. I needed 
my fix, so I bought a CC 34 in Seattle and moved it to my home marina. 
Needless to say during the move I learned about low clearances under bridges 
and trying to dock in extreme currents. 
 
This past weekend we took Gabriela for a cruise. All last fall we refitted, 
cleaned, painted, and generally dressed up the 1978 beauty. This was the first 
“out of town” trip we took…not much of a trip only about 25 miles down river, 
but it was a classic trip none the less. The winter runoff from the snow melt 
in the mountains of Idaho, Oregon, and Washington have made the Snake river a 
swirling cauldron of tree stumps, broken branches, muddy water and all the 
nastiness that happens during the runoff days.
 
The neighbor in the slip next to mine is a seasoned river captain has had his 
commercial license to take 40-60ft jet boats with up to 50 passengers on them 
up river to a place called Hells Canyon. He owns a Catalina 36 he lives aboard. 
He said “don’t do it, the river is a mess”… the extra current made the water 
roil around the bridge emplacements, and there was a whole forest floating down 
the rapidly moving Snake. 
 
I took it as a challenge J 
 
We left around noon and made good a speed over the ground (or water as it were) 
of 9.5 knots. The wind was blowing from the east, the Yanmar was pushing us 
downstream at a good clip and we had the winds at our back (from the east). We 
made 25 miles in just over 2.5 hours. Since marinas and docks on the snake are 
far and few between, especially one that can handle the draft of a CC 34, we 
decided to anchor. We found an eddy ( a back flow in the river made by “coves” 
in the shore line and actually let the boat point WEST instead of EAST as the 
flow of the current would indicate. We set a bow anchor and a stern anchor in 
40’ of water, fired up the BBQ and the stereo (there is no cell service or TV 
or Radio for that matter)… and had steaks and corn on the cob courtesy of the 
BBQ grill on the back rail. 
 
Because the river got deeper here (around 125 feet) the water flowed less on 
the surface, and more down deep… and the junk floating in the water seemed to 
“disperse” more… by the next day, it was clear and clean water and the junk had 
washed down the river to the Columbia. 
 
During the night, a small front moved in and dropped a little rain on us, but 
we were snug inside the dry and cozy cabin. We had put memory foam mattresses 
under all the sleeping berths and we slept the sleep of angels. In the morning, 
the coyotes woke us up, and we fixed a breakfast on the stove in the galley, 
pulled up anchor and headed back up river. 
 
Expecting a slight westerly we were pleasantly surprised when the wind was 
pretty fresh at around 10mph from the west consistently with gusts to 20mph… 
this pushed Gabriela along at an average of 5.5 knts AGAINST the current…we 
sailed in the shallowest part of the river as we could, thus keeping out of the 
fastest part of the flow. 
 
In the end, we made the 25 miles back home in about 4.5 hours with more than 
half the trip under sail. It was a challenge dodging the flotsam in the water, 
but we did it without even getting close to a log… (the river can be over a 
half mile wide in some places…) as much of it had washed past us during the 
night.

The return was sunny and 75 degrees with a nice tail wind mostly and a great 
day sailing… The boar was solid, the handling was superb, and the sail plan was 
perfect for what we needed. 
 
Thanks for reading --- hope to see you in our water some day…
 
JP
S/V Gabriela
1978 CC 34


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Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

2014-05-27 Thread Chuck S via CnC-List
Hi Edd, 
I hear 2750 is the sweet spot for an engine w 3600 max RPM 

I just ran three days to get my boat from AC to Magothy River, Md. My M4-30 
liked 2750 for the first day running at max, 195 degrees. Diesels like to run 
hot and run loaded. They start carboning up if they are loaded less than 30%. 
The second day, I had an overheat condition and had to stop and anchor and 
clean the heat exchanger. It was scaled up with many tubes plugged. I rodded it 
clear using wooden dowels I keep aboard. The flow improved but only 50%. I 
changed the impellor and flow was 30% better than when I launched. The old 
impellor looked fine, but the results were night and day, so I threw it away. 
After that, she ran cooler and liked more RPMs and we got closer to 3000PRM. 
3600 is max. I monitor vibration and engine temperature to choose RPMs. We were 
pushing to catch tide changes to get up the Delaware and thru the CC Canal. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 CC 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 

- Original Message -

From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 12:16:00 PM 
Subject: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine 

Listers, 

Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on your diesel 
engine? The Enterprise has an Universal M35. 

I used to stay around 2300, but people tell me diesels like to be worked and I 
could go higher. My mechanic said don’t be afraid to go 2500 or more, but I 
wonder if he’s just looking for more repair income :-) 

How much do you push your engine? 


All the best, 

Edd 


Edd M. Schillay 
Starship Enterprise 
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 


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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

2014-05-27 Thread Chuck S via CnC-List
I installed a big 2000, but doubt it pumps 2000GPM, more like GPH on it's best 
day. 


- Original Message -

From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net, CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 10:55:22 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning 

Some bilge pump; 500 gallons per minute...fight fires with that baby 

-Original Message- 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List 
Sent: May 27, 2014 11:46 AM 
To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning 

I wired a 500 gpm Rule pump straight to the panel (through a connector under 

the dinette seat). The pump comes with long enough wires that any connection 

is completely up in the (dry) seat area, but I still used Anchor connectors 
with built in heat shrink. So far, so good. I expect it will fail for some 
reason (way down under the mast step) so am planning another diaphragm pump 
with a hose down there. I've done this before. The pump itself just craps 
out. 

I worry little about the fact I have to turn it on and off, as I live less 
than a block from the boat and it is in an active yard - they will call if 
there is any problem (plus I draw five feet and am in about six feet of 
water at low tide, seven to eight at high). And there is not enough room 

in the deep part of the bilge for a pump and a switch - I have found the 
automatic 'all in one' pumps seem to die earlier than manual ones. 

Just replaced the Whale Gusher (I think OEM) after 33 years - you would 
think those things would be durable - this time, I will use it every so 
often - it was virtually welded together from corrosion. 

Gary 
30-1, 1980 
- Original Message - 
From: Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 9:51 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning 


 Dennis had a good call with heat shrink and painting with liquid 
 electrical tape. I took made my heat shrink about two inches longer than 
 the connection, and injected marine silicone inside with a syringe. When 
 the shrunk, silicone gushed out the ends. It has been wet often. 
 
 Maybe I'm just lucky, but my 12 year old Rule pumps and float switches are 

 still doing fine. I have a little 500 as the primary pump, and a big one 
 that stays up on a platform about six inches off the bilge, just in case. 
 The 500 does get clogged up with bilge gunk, and I just replaced it 
 because they can't be taken apart and cleaned out. One thing I do is 
 take a garden hose to 3/4 adapter and flush the hose out with high 
 pressure dock water. I'll also backflush the pump with the garden hose. 
 
 Most of the float switches I've seen fail are really due to bad wiring. 
 I've seen plain crimp connections just sitting in the bilge, and it's no 
 wonder the wire rots out. The worst, if you can believe it, was just 
 wires twisted together and covered with electrical tape. No kidding. I 
 found that down here in Mexico, as the sport fishing boat was sinking at 
 the dock. The guy came back to town, and when I told him that I'd saved 
 his boat he didn't even say thanks. Power boaters. (It probably didn't 
 help that I said whoever did the wiring ought to be taken out and shot.) 
 
 Wal 
 
 
 
 you CnC-List wrote: 
 I ran a rule float switch to one which failed that first year. 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

2014-05-27 Thread via CnC-List

I am told my Beta 25 can run up to 3600 but I reach hull speed at ~ 3200 so 
running it higher is pointless--the speed is fixed by the combination
of rpm/transmission ratio/prop size/LWL. It is loud enough at 3200!
 
Charlie Nelson
S/V Water Phantom
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com; CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tue, May 27, 2014 5:22 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine



Hi Edd,

I hear 2750 is the sweet spot for an engine w 3600 max RPM



I just ran three days to get my boat from AC to Magothy River, Md.  My M4-30 
liked 2750 for the first day running at max, 195 degrees.  Diesels like to run 
hot and run loaded.  They start carboning up if they are loaded less than 30%.  
The second day, I had an overheat condition and had to stop and anchor and 
clean the heat exchanger.  It was scaled up with many tubes plugged.  I rodded 
it clear using wooden dowels I keep aboard.  The flow improved but only 50%.  I 
changed the impellor and flow was 30% better than when I launched.  The old 
impellor looked fine, but the results were night and day, so I threw it away.  
After that, she ran cooler and liked more RPMs and we got closer to 3000PRM.  
3600 is max.  I monitor vibration and engine temperature to choose RPMs.  We 
were pushing to catch tide changes to get up the Delaware and thru the CC 
Canal.  




Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ




From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 12:16:00 PM
Subject: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine



Listers,


 Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on your diesel 
engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35. 


 I used to stay around 2300, but people tell me diesels like to be worked and I 
could go higher. My mechanic said don’t be afraid to go 2500 or more, but I 
wonder if he’s just looking for more repair income :-)


 How much do you push your engine? 




 All the best,


 Edd




 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY 

 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




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Re: Stus-List River cruise

2014-05-27 Thread Bill Coleman via CnC-List
I find your situation very interesting. You are a very rare sailor.

 For some reason, I often have dreams where I am sailing down city streets,
which happen to have water in them. Somehow my spar never catches any wires.
I have talked to other sailors who have similar dreams.   I must secretly
want to be in the river like you.

 

Bill Coleman

CC 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P. via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 4:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List River cruise

 

All,

 

Just wanted to share some of this weekend's Memorial Day trip. as some of
you may remember, I have Gabriela, a CC 34' that is homeport on the Snake
River in Washington. 

 

I know it seems weird, but I moved here from California where week long
sails in the Big Blue Pacific were commonplace and everyone had a sailboat.
I needed my fix, so I bought a CC 34 in Seattle and moved it to my home
marina. Needless to say during the move I learned about low clearances under
bridges and trying to dock in extreme currents. 

 

This past weekend we took Gabriela for a cruise. All last fall we refitted,
cleaned, painted, and generally dressed up the 1978 beauty. This was the
first out of town trip we took.not much of a trip only about 25 miles down
river, but it was a classic trip none the less. The winter runoff from the
snow melt in the mountains of Idaho, Oregon, and Washington have made the
Snake river a swirling cauldron of tree stumps, broken branches, muddy water
and all the nastiness that happens during the runoff days.

 

The neighbor in the slip next to mine is a seasoned river captain has had
his commercial license to take 40-60ft jet boats with up to 50 passengers on
them up river to a place called Hells Canyon. He owns a Catalina 36 he lives
aboard. He said don't do it, the river is a mess. the extra current made
the water roil around the bridge emplacements, and there was a whole forest
floating down the rapidly moving Snake. 

 

I took it as a challenge J 

 

We left around noon and made good a speed over the ground (or water as it
were) of 9.5 knots. The wind was blowing from the east, the Yanmar was
pushing us downstream at a good clip and we had the winds at our back (from
the east). We made 25 miles in just over 2.5 hours. Since marinas and docks
on the snake are far and few between, especially one that can handle the
draft of a CC 34, we decided to anchor. We found an eddy ( a back flow in
the river made by coves in the shore line and actually let the boat point
WEST instead of EAST as the flow of the current would indicate. We set a bow
anchor and a stern anchor in 40' of water, fired up the BBQ and the stereo
(there is no cell service or TV or Radio for that matter). and had steaks
and corn on the cob courtesy of the BBQ grill on the back rail. 

 

Because the river got deeper here (around 125 feet) the water flowed less on
the surface, and more down deep. and the junk floating in the water seemed
to disperse more. by the next day, it was clear and clean water and the
junk had washed down the river to the Columbia. 

 

During the night, a small front moved in and dropped a little rain on us,
but we were snug inside the dry and cozy cabin. We had put memory foam
mattresses under all the sleeping berths and we slept the sleep of angels.
In the morning, the coyotes woke us up, and we fixed a breakfast on the
stove in the galley, pulled up anchor and headed back up river. 

 

Expecting a slight westerly we were pleasantly surprised when the wind was
pretty fresh at around 10mph from the west consistently with gusts to 20mph.
this pushed Gabriela along at an average of 5.5 knts AGAINST the current.we
sailed in the shallowest part of the river as we could, thus keeping out of
the fastest part of the flow. 

 

In the end, we made the 25 miles back home in about 4.5 hours with more than
half the trip under sail. It was a challenge dodging the flotsam in the
water, but we did it without even getting close to a log. (the river can be
over a half mile wide in some places.) as much of it had washed past us
during the night.


The return was sunny and 75 degrees with a nice tail wind mostly and a great
day sailing. The boar was solid, the handling was superb, and the sail plan
was perfect for what we needed. 

 

Thanks for reading --- hope to see you in our water some day.

 

JP

S/V Gabriela

1978 CC 34

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

2014-05-27 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


Thanks for all the advice.  This is a great resource (thanks Stu).  I've 
read some of this info scanning different online sites - but this list 
gives quick feedback on how and why.


That Whale sub pump is exactly the one I was looking at.  Plus a switch.

I will take the wiring advice - heat shrink and silicone etc.

Any thoughts on the discharge?
I've read some people discharge through the galley sink drain - which 
would keep the hose run short and easy --- but then I'd have to leave 
that seacock open..


The other option is to Y the discharge to the current manual pump 
discharge (or one of the above waterline cockpit drain hoses) - but that 
would need 18'+ of hose.


Mark

-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 27/05/2014 10:51 AM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote:
Dennis had a good call with heat shrink and painting with liquid 
electrical tape.  I took made my heat shrink about two inches longer 
than the connection, and injected marine silicone inside with a 
syringe.  When the shrunk, silicone gushed out the ends. It has been 
wet often.


Maybe I'm just lucky, but my 12 year old Rule pumps and float switches 
are still doing fine.  I have a little 500 as the primary pump, and a 
big one that stays up on a platform about six inches off the bilge, 
just in case.  The 500 does get clogged up with bilge gunk, and I just 
replaced it because they can't be taken apart and cleaned out.One 
thing I do is take a garden hose to 3/4 adapter and flush the hose 
out with high pressure dock water.  I'll also backflush the pump with 
the garden hose.


Most of the float switches I've seen fail are really due to bad 
wiring.  I've seen plain crimp connections just sitting in the bilge, 
and it's no wonder the wire rots out.  The worst, if you can believe 
it, was just wires twisted together and covered with electrical tape.  
No kidding.  I found that down here in Mexico, as the sport fishing 
boat was sinking at the dock.  The guy came back to town, and when I 
told him that I'd saved his boat he didn't even say thanks.  Power 
boaters.  (It probably didn't help that I said whoever did the wiring 
ought to be taken out and shot.)


Wal



you CnC-List wrote:

I ran a rule float switch to one which failed that first year.



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

2014-05-27 Thread Rich Knowles via CnC-List
Mark, the Whale I noted has a built in switch. 

Rich

 On May 27, 2014, at 18:35, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 
 Thanks for all the advice.  This is a great resource (thanks Stu).  I've read 
 some of this info scanning different online sites - but this list gives quick 
 feedback on how and why.
 
 That Whale sub pump is exactly the one I was looking at.  Plus a switch.
 
 I will take the wiring advice - heat shrink and silicone etc.
 
 Any thoughts on the discharge?
 I've read some people discharge through the galley sink drain - which would 
 keep the hose run short and easy --- but then I'd have to leave that seacock 
 open..
 
 The other option is to Y the discharge to the current manual pump discharge 
 (or one of the above waterline cockpit drain hoses) - but that would need 
 18'+ of hose.
 
 Mark
 
 -
 
 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
 
 On 27/05/2014 10:51 AM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote:
 Dennis had a good call with heat shrink and painting with liquid electrical 
 tape.  I took made my heat shrink about two inches longer than the 
 connection, and injected marine silicone inside with a syringe.  When the 
 shrunk, silicone gushed out the ends. It has been wet often.
 
 Maybe I'm just lucky, but my 12 year old Rule pumps and float switches are 
 still doing fine.  I have a little 500 as the primary pump, and a big one 
 that stays up on a platform about six inches off the bilge, just in case.  
 The 500 does get clogged up with bilge gunk, and I just replaced it because 
 they can't be taken apart and cleaned out.One thing I do is take a 
 garden hose to 3/4 adapter and flush the hose out with high pressure dock 
 water.  I'll also backflush the pump with the garden hose.
 
 Most of the float switches I've seen fail are really due to bad wiring.  
 I've seen plain crimp connections just sitting in the bilge, and it's no 
 wonder the wire rots out.  The worst, if you can believe it, was just wires 
 twisted together and covered with electrical tape.  No kidding.  I found 
 that down here in Mexico, as the sport fishing boat was sinking at the dock. 
  The guy came back to town, and when I told him that I'd saved his boat he 
 didn't even say thanks.  Power boaters.  (It probably didn't help that I 
 said whoever did the wiring ought to be taken out and shot.)
 
 Wal
 
 
 
 you CnC-List wrote:
 I ran a rule float switch to one which failed that first year.
 
 
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Re: Stus-List River cruise

2014-05-27 Thread Chuck S via CnC-List
I once had a dream I was commanding a small square rigged cargo brig thru 
waterways of Copenhagen, with buildings on both sides and we used topsails only 
to manuver a few turns in about 10 knots of wind. There were no wires because 
it was the early 1800's. Great fun moving past buildings at 5 knots, w people 
waving and the crew all engaged and proficient. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 CC 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 

- Original Message -

From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 5:34:15 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List River cruise 



I find your situation very interesting. You are a very rare sailor. 

For some reason, I often have dreams where I am sailing down city streets, 
which happen to have water in them. Somehow my spar never catches any wires. I 
have talked to other sailors who have similar dreams. I must secretly want to 
be in the river like you. 




Bill Coleman 

CC 39 





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P. via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 4:23 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List River cruise 




All, 



Just wanted to share some of this weekend’s Memorial Day trip… as some of you 
may remember, I have Gabriela, a CC 34’ that is homeport on the Snake River in 
Washington… 



I know it seems weird, but I moved here from California where week long sails 
in the Big Blue Pacific were commonplace and everyone had a sailboat. I needed 
my fix, so I bought a CC 34 in Seattle and moved it to my home marina. 
Needless to say during the move I learned about low clearances under bridges 
and trying to dock in extreme currents. 



This past weekend we took Gabriela for a cruise. All last fall we refitted, 
cleaned, painted, and generally dressed up the 1978 beauty. This was the first 
“out of town” trip we took…not much of a trip only about 25 miles down river, 
but it was a classic trip none the less. The winter runoff from the snow melt 
in the mountains of Idaho, Oregon, and Washington have made the Snake river a 
swirling cauldron of tree stumps, broken branches, muddy water and all the 
nastiness that happens during the runoff days. 



The neighbor in the slip next to mine is a seasoned river captain has had his 
commercial license to take 40-60ft jet boats with up to 50 passengers on them 
up river to a place called Hells Canyon. He owns a Catalina 36 he lives aboard. 
He said “don’t do it, the river is a mess”… the extra current made the water 
roil around the bridge emplacements, and there was a whole forest floating down 
the rapidly moving Snake. 



I took it as a challenge J 



We left around noon and made good a speed over the ground (or water as it were) 
of 9.5 knots. The wind was blowing from the east, the Yanmar was pushing us 
downstream at a good clip and we had the winds at our back (from the east). We 
made 25 miles in just over 2.5 hours. Since marinas and docks on the snake are 
far and few between, especially one that can handle the draft of a CC 34, we 
decided to anchor. We found an eddy ( a back flow in the river made by “coves” 
in the shore line and actually let the boat point WEST instead of EAST as the 
flow of the current would indicate. We set a bow anchor and a stern anchor in 
40’ of water, fired up the BBQ and the stereo (there is no cell service or TV 
or Radio for that matter)… and had steaks and corn on the cob courtesy of the 
BBQ grill on the back rail. 



Because the river got deeper here (around 125 feet) the water flowed less on 
the surface, and more down deep… and the junk floating in the water seemed to 
“disperse” more… by the next day, it was clear and clean water and the junk had 
washed down the river to the Columbia. 



During the night, a small front moved in and dropped a little rain on us, but 
we were snug inside the dry and cozy cabin. We had put memory foam mattresses 
under all the sleeping berths and we slept the sleep of angels. In the morning, 
the coyotes woke us up, and we fixed a breakfast on the stove in the galley, 
pulled up anchor and headed back up river. 



Expecting a slight westerly we were pleasantly surprised when the wind was 
pretty fresh at around 10mph from the west consistently with gusts to 20mph… 
this pushed Gabriela along at an average of 5.5 knts AGAINST the current…we 
sailed in the shallowest part of the river as we could, thus keeping out of the 
fastest part of the flow. 



In the end, we made the 25 miles back home in about 4.5 hours with more than 
half the trip under sail. It was a challenge dodging the flotsam in the water, 
but we did it without even getting close to a log… (the river can be over a 
half mile wide in some places…) as much of it had washed past us during the 
night. 


The return was sunny and 75 degrees with a nice tail wind mostly and a great 
day sailing… The boar was solid, the handling was superb, and the sail plan was 

Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

2014-05-27 Thread Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
Edd,

 

This will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, as well as the specific
model.  My Yanmar tops out at 3600 rpm.  Yanmar recommends running them at
up to 85% of their continuous rating.  My max continuous is 3400, so I run
mine about 2900.  That's how I get to Screwpile every year.  13 hours at
2900 rpm, each way.  There's never any wind on the Chesapeake in July.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

Midnight Mistress

CC 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 12:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

 

Listers,

 

Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on
your diesel engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35. 

 

I used to stay around 2300, but people tell me diesels like to
be worked and I could go higher. My mechanic said don't be afraid to go 2500
or more, but I wonder if he's just looking for more repair income :-)

 

How much do you push your engine? 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ 

 

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Re: Stus-List need adapter to connect mixing elbow 1.5 OD to muffler 1.25 OD

2014-05-27 Thread Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
Nate,

 

Centek makes some nice fiberglass adapters.  They are available in many boat 
stores online.  They should have one that will do the job.  The fiberglass will 
weigh less than galvanized pipe.  It’s sure to help make your boat faster!

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

CC 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nate 
Flesness via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 3:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List need adapter to connect mixing elbow 1.5 OD to muffler 
1.25 OD

 

Finishing reinstalling my Yanmar 2QM15 in my 30-1, I need to connect the 
official Yanmar mixing elbow (OD 1.5) to the orig equipment metal muffler tube 
(OD 1.25). Anyone have a handy source for a suitable adapter? I have high temp 
radiator style hoses in both ID sizes. 

 

The P.O had a bizarre collection of hardware store galvanized pipe connecting a 
homemade elbow to the muffler. The pipes always leaked a little. I'm trying to 
get back to something resembling the original setup.

 

Thanks

 

Nate

Sarah Jean

1980 30-1

SIskiwit Bay Marina

Lake Superior

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Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

2014-05-27 Thread Bill Bina via CnC-List

  
  
Those extra rpm's make a difference
  when being hit head-on by waves, or even chop. The added ability
  to accelerate faster back up to hull speed will make your average
  speed over time faster, even though you won't be exceeding hull
  speed. How fast you recover after a wave slows you down can make
  quite a difference in how soon you get where you are going. That
  is why it never hurts to have a few more horsepower. Reaching hull
  speed in calm flat water is not the goal. Most boats that are
  considered a bit underpowered have no trouble reaching hull speed
  when there is no opposition. Of course, going slower than hull
  speed in those conditions will generally be more comfortable if
  that is your priority.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 5/27/2014 5:26 PM, via CnC-List wrote:


I am told my
Beta 25 can run up to 3600 but I reach hull speed at ~ 3200
so running it higher is pointless--the speed is fixed by the
combination
of rpm/transmission ratio/prop size/LWL. It is loud enough
  at 3200!

Charlie Nelson
S/V Water Phantom

cenel...@aol.com




  


  


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Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

2014-05-27 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Yanmar 3HM35F 30hp @3200 rpm continuous.  3400rpm for 1hour.  3600rpm max.

My manual says to avoid extended operation at high vibation rpm.  The
Idle/shift/minimum rpm spec is 800.  The Kanzaki transmission is required
to be shifted less than 1000rpm.

I push it as hard and fast as I can while watching and smelling for black
smoke.  The rpm by analog tach is usually 2500-2800 but by laser-tach it
usually adds about 200-400rpm.  Boat speed is between 6.0-7.5kts. The
throttle lever slips a little so after extended operation the rpms creep
down and I'll have to re-throttle up.  I don't worry about fuel consumption
since I don't use my 40 gallon tank fast enough anyway.

I hate running the engine but the noise is basically the same regardless of
rpm.

I also use a great product called Opti-lube XPD.  I strongly recommend it.
It is marketed to restore the lubricity that has been lost by ultra low
sulfer diesel (ULSD).  My expierience is that the engine runs smoother, min
idles a little higher and smoother, and can attain a higher rpm before
black smoke.

My understanding with ALL diesels is that you want to run the engine near
full rpm and load as often as possible and the prop should be pitched
accordingly.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Yanmar 3HM35F
Solomons, MD
 On May 27, 2014 12:16 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Listers,

 Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on your diesel
 engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35.

 I used to stay around 2300, but people tell me diesels like to be worked
 and I could go higher. My mechanic said don't be afraid to go 2500 or more,
 but I wonder if he's just looking for more repair income :-)

 How much do you push your engine?


 All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 100, Issue 69

2014-05-27 Thread Alex Giannelia via CnC-List
 Curtis
 
 
 
  --
  All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the
  dusty
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity,
 but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their
 dreams with open eyes, to make it possible.
 
  T. E. Lawrence
 
  .
 
 
 
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 --
 All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but
 the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their
 dreams with open eyes, to make it possible.

 T. E. Lawrence

 .



  --

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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 27 May 2014 14:57:43 -0400
From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump
Cleaning
Message-ID: 2aae6aae-da7c-47a7-be03-84a453918...@icloud.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Wal:  you must be lucky or I am unlucky, my Rule bilge pump float switches last 
from one to 3 years and this replacement frequency has been going on for the 27 
years I've owned my boat!  (My last Rule bilge pump lasted about 15 years 
though--real good service!). I am switching to a completely enclosed sensing 
type of switch made by Johnson--I hope it lasts much longer!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 27 May 2014 15:19:02 -0400
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine
Message-ID: 4f9e9ba5-ceae-447c-aa59-dd8509fca...@earthlink.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I have an M35B in Imzadi. Max RPM is 3000 for that engine. IIRC the max torque 
is between 2400 and 2600 RPM - which is consistent with the rule of thumb that 
max torque is at about 80% of max RPM.

Your engine will thank you if you use it regularly and with significant load. 
Idling for extended periods to charge batteries, it running for long periods at 
low RPMs is not good for it. But 2300 is pretty close to 2400-2500, so you are 
probably not doing significant harm. Just don't be afraid of going to 2500.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

 On May 27, 2014, at 12:16, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:

 Listers,

   Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on your 
 diesel engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35.

   I used to stay around 2300, but people tell me diesels like to be
 worked and I could go higher. My mechanic said don?t be afraid to go
 2500 or more, but I wonder if he?s just looking for more repair income
 :-)

   How much do you push your engine?


   All the best,

   Edd


   Edd M. Schillay
   Starship Enterprise
   CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
   City Island, NY
   Starship Enterprise's Captain's

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 100, Issue 69

2014-05-27 Thread Bill Bina via CnC-List
Fuel filler hose. Do not use anything that is not fuel proof. Someday, 
you, or someone else will somehow manage to spill enough gasoline or 
other solvent in the cockpit to melt inferior hoses. It doesn't take 
much, as many cockpit drain hoses have a low spot where a couple 
spoonfuls will sit and do its work. That can lead to a LOT of water 
filling up your boat.


CC originally used something very close to this:
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2243574|2243581id=106386

Bill Bina


On 5/27/2014 6:46 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List wrote:

What is the best hose to use for cockpit drain to thru hulls?

Cheers!

Alex

Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
+1 (416) 203-9858 Office
+1 (416) 529-0070 Mobile
www.airsensing.com





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Re: Stus-List need adapter to connect mixing elbow 1.5 OD to muffler 1.25 OD

2014-05-27 Thread Steve Thomas via CnC-List
The output of the exhaust elbow on my 1978 YSB12 is threaded on the inside to 
fit 1 1/4 inch iron pipe, and appears to have been done that way as part of the 
original installation. The engine installer must have threaded the elbow, since 
I never heard of them coming that way from Yanmar, but I don't know that for 
certain. The threads mate with a short nipple, followed by a 90 degree elbow, 
and then a copper pipe thread to soldered copper pipe adapter fitting instead 
of a hose barb. This is followed by a foot or less of hose that goes straight 
to an aluminum can style water lift muffler. All of the above was closely 
wrapped in asbestos header tape and secured with monel seizing wire spaces 
about 3/8 of an inch. It would have been a very sharp bend in the hose without 
these extra fittings. 
 
I would never have known what was under the asbestos wrap except that the 90 
degree elbow eventually rotted through at the bottom where a little puddle of 
water sat when the engine was shut off. I really can't complain about the 
design since it took over 30 years to fail, but that copper part still seems 
odd. 
 
Anyway, if you have or have access to a 1 1/4 inch pipe thread tap, you could 
tap the inside of the outlet pipe and install a conventional galvanized or 
bronze hose barb.  The stock elbow for your engine should be the same as mine, 
without the internal threads.
 
Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
 
Date: Tue, 27 May 2014 14:49:56 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List need adapter to connect mixing elbow 1.5 OD to muffler  
1.25 OD
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Finishing reinstalling my Yanmar 2QM15 in my 30-1, I need to connect the 
official Yanmar mixing elbow (OD 1.5) to the orig equipment metal muffler tube 
(OD 1.25). Anyone have a handy source for a suitable adapter? I have high temp 
radiator style hoses in both ID sizes. 


The P.O had a bizarre collection of hardware store galvanized pipe connecting a 
homemade elbow to the muffler. The pipes always leaked a little. I'm trying to 
get back to something resembling the original setup.


Thanks
NateSarah Jean1980 30-1SIskiwit Bay MarinaLake Superior

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 100, Issue 69

2014-05-27 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
 with
  the old one to make sure you have the right ends and length.
 
  Rich
 
   On May 27, 2014, at 12:44, Curtis via CnC-List
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  wrote:
  
   I have a CC30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my
   left
  on the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both.
   Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable?
  
  
  
   thanks Curtis
  
  
  
   --
   All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the
   dusty
  recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity,
  but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their
  dreams with open eyes, to make it possible.
  
   T. E. Lawrence
  
   .
  
  
  
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  of page at:
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  --
  All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
  recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but
  the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their
  dreams with open eyes, to make it possible.
 
  T. E. Lawrence
 
  .
 
 
 
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 Message: 2
 Date: Tue, 27 May 2014 14:57:43 -0400
 From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump
 Cleaning
 Message-ID: 2aae6aae-da7c-47a7-be03-84a453918...@icloud.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

 Wal:  you must be lucky or I am unlucky, my Rule bilge pump float switches
 last from one to 3 years and this replacement frequency has been going on
 for the 27 years I've owned my boat!  (My last Rule bilge pump lasted about
 15 years though--real good service!). I am switching to a completely
 enclosed sensing type of switch made by Johnson--I hope it lasts much
 longer!

 Bob

 Bob Boyer
 S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
 email: dainyr...@icloud.com
 blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
 messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame
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 Message: 3
 Date: Tue, 27 May 2014 15:19:02 -0400
 From: Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine
 Message-ID: 4f9e9ba5-ceae-447c-aa59-dd8509fca...@earthlink.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

 I have an M35B in Imzadi. Max RPM is 3000 for that engine. IIRC the max
 torque is between 2400 and 2600 RPM - which is consistent with the rule of
 thumb that max torque is at about 80% of max RPM.

 Your engine will thank you if you use it regularly and with significant
 load. Idling for extended periods to charge batteries, it running for long
 periods at low RPMs is not good for it. But 2300 is pretty close to
 2400-2500, so you are probably not doing significant harm. Just don't be
 afraid of going to 2500.

 Rick Brass

 Sent from my iPad

  On May 27, 2014, at 12:16, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  Listers,
 
Curious to know what you set as your own

Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

2014-05-27 Thread Wally Bryant via CnC-List

you wrote:
Any thoughts on the discharge? 


Yes, beyond a shadow of a doubt I would put the discharge output above 
the waterline at any point of sail at any time.  All of mine are just 
below the toe rail aft.  They have been underwater, but that was my 
mistake.  There was one time when I had a passenger on board who 
honestly weighed about 300 pounds, and that really messed up the lines.  
He was an 'expert' and invited himself onto my boat after I rebuilt the 
rig.  I hear he now sails a trawler.


I have a check valve on the little 500 pump.   I can honestly say that 
I'd rather have a check valve than not have one.  The hose run is long, 
but it's better than a siphon when the rails are under water.  To be 
honest, I've learned that my boat sails best when the rails are about 
8-14 inches off the water.  So I manage my sails appropriately.  But, 
really,



Gotta go.  My stereo just blasted out Jimmy B's 'why don't we get 
skunked and draw' followed by Joan Jetts cover of Tommy James and the 
Shondells's Crimson and Clover.  And I still can't find the darn remote 
to turn it off.   And I met this woman today who swore she knew a better 
brand of tequila than the one I've been nursing for the last 25 years.  
I don't believe it, but heck, there's always a chance.


Wal


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Re: Stus-List Rebel Heart -

2014-05-27 Thread Wally Bryant via CnC-List

you wrote:

snip There is a*lot*  more to the story of Rebel Heart. You can find out all 
about it in the usual places.
Long Story Short is the wife has issues, they never should have left Mexico, 
snip


Sorry, but as long as I'm drinking and feel a sudden need to share, I 
can only say this:


*YUP*


They are still maintaining that they have seven years cruising 
experience, but what they really mean is that they bought the boat seven 
years ago.


I am really tired of newbies claiming to be expert cruisers just because 
they bought a heavy full keel boat and know how to talk on the radio.


Heck, a few years ago I met a blonde from Los Angeles (or was it San 
Diego) who claimed to have 11 years cruising experience.  She found a 
guy who would make all her dreams come true.  He dumped her. She's now a 
true brunette, trying to find the next bigger better deal.  She still 
talks on the radio.  The web site, which once proclaimed her experience 
as a 'marketing professional' now has her picture turned sideways.  
Guess who's paying for it.


Wal



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Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

2014-05-27 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Edd,

My Universal 25XPB has a max rpm (one hour) of 2900-3000 rpm.  The manual
states cruise is 80% of that.  I run 2450 rpm as cruise.  The engine seems
to like it.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 11:16 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Listers,

 Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on your diesel
 engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35.

 I used to stay around 2300, but people tell me diesels like to be worked
 and I could go higher. My mechanic said don’t be afraid to go 2500 or more,
 but I wonder if he’s just looking for more repair income :-)

 How much do you push your engine?


 All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


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Stus-List Drop-in refrigerators. Any experience?

2014-05-27 Thread tim via CnC-List
Hi,

 

   I've been pondering about purchasing and installing a drop-in
refrigerator for my ice box.  Its that time of year already.  Looking for
advice, and possible model recommendations in case others have gone that
route.  Considering Engel or Isotherm models, but open to others.

 

Thanks for your advice and input.

 

Tim

Malletts Bay, VT

CC 29' Mk1

S/V Sly Fox

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Stus-List First time out at the helm

2014-05-27 Thread via CnC-List
 the right ends and length.
 
 Rich
 
 On May 27, 2014, at 12:44, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:
 
 I have a CC30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my left
 on the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both.
 Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable?
 
 
 
 thanks Curtis
 
 
 
 --
 All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
 dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
 open eyes, to make it possible.
 
 T. E. Lawrence
 
 .
 
 
 
 ___
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
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 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
 page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
 page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 
 --
 All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
 dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
 open eyes, to make it possible.
 
 T. E. Lawrence
 
 .
 
 
 
 --
 
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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 Message: 2
 Date: Tue, 27 May 2014 14:57:43 -0400
 From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump
Cleaning
 Message-ID: 2aae6aae-da7c-47a7-be03-84a453918...@icloud.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 
 Wal:  you must be lucky or I am unlucky, my Rule bilge pump float switches 
 last from one to 3 years and this replacement frequency has been going on for 
 the 27 years I've owned my boat!  (My last Rule bilge pump lasted about 15 
 years though--real good service!). I am switching to a completely enclosed 
 sensing type of switch made by Johnson--I hope it lasts much longer!
 
 Bob
 
 Bob Boyer
 S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
 email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
 blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
 
 There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
 messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame
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 --
 
 Message: 3
 Date: Tue, 27 May 2014 15:19:02 -0400
 From: Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine
 Message-ID: 4f9e9ba5-ceae-447c-aa59-dd8509fca...@earthlink.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 
 I have an M35B in Imzadi. Max RPM is 3000 for that engine. IIRC the max 
 torque is between 2400 and 2600 RPM - which is consistent with the rule of 
 thumb that max torque is at about 80% of max RPM.
 
 Your engine will thank you if you use it regularly and with significant load. 
 Idling for extended periods to charge batteries, it running for long periods 
 at low RPMs is not good for it. But 2300 is pretty close to 2400-2500, so you 
 are probably not doing significant harm. Just don't be afraid of going to 
 2500.
 
 Rick Brass
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On May 27, 2014, at 12:16, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Listers,
 
Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on your diesel 
 engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35. 
 
I used to stay around 2300, but people tell me

Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

2014-05-27 Thread Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List

Josh

Aha...I have been wondering about the apparent inability of my 3HM35F 
to run at much of anything above 3000 RPM, even in neutral.  The 
variance from the 20 year old analog tach would account for that.  I 
have been running at about 24-2600 RPM on the tach, which, if that 
variance from actual on mine as it was on yours, it makes perfect sense.


thx...I feel much better now...

Tom B


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
CC 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


At 03:49 PM 5/27/2014, you wrote:


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 27 May 2014 18:44:55 -0400
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine
Message-ID:
ca+zacrd3fh6n4s8+tew-3-1w_jga4ver9onjob1xctjjlce...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Yanmar 3HM35F 30hp @3200 rpm continuous.  3400rpm for 1hour.  3600rpm max.

My manual says to avoid extended operation at high vibation rpm.  The
Idle/shift/minimum rpm spec is 800.  The Kanzaki transmission is required
to be shifted less than 1000rpm.

I push it as hard and fast as I can while watching and smelling for black
smoke.  The rpm by analog tach is usually 2500-2800 but by laser-tach it
usually adds about 200-400rpm.  Boat speed is between 6.0-7.5kts. The
throttle lever slips a little so after extended operation the rpms creep
down and I'll have to re-throttle up.  I don't worry about fuel consumption
since I don't use my 40 gallon tank fast enough anyway.

I hate running the engine but the noise is basically the same regardless of
rpm.

I also use a great product called Opti-lube XPD.  I strongly recommend it.
It is marketed to restore the lubricity that has been lost by ultra low
sulfer diesel (ULSD).  My expierience is that the engine runs smoother, min
idles a little higher and smoother, and can attain a higher rpm before
black smoke.

My understanding with ALL diesels is that you want to run the engine near
full rpm and load as often as possible and the prop should be pitched
accordingly.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Yanmar 3HM35F
Solomons, MD
 On May 27, 2014 12:16 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Listers,

 Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on your diesel
 engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35.
 ...snip...
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Re: Stus-List First time out at the helm

2014-05-27 Thread Steve Sharkey via CnC-List


On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 11:09 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


Curtis, dig the old cable out and go to your marine supplier with the
old one to make sure you have the right ends and length.

Rich


On May 27, 2014, at 12:44, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com

wrote:


I have a CC30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my left

on the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both.

Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable?



thanks Curtis



--
All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but 
the
dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams 
with

open eyes, to make it possible.


T. E. Lawrence

.



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of page at:

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--
All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
open eyes, to make it possible.

T. E. Lawrence

.



--

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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 27 May 2014 14:57:43 -0400
From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump
   Cleaning
Message-ID: 2aae6aae-da7c-47a7-be03-84a453918...@icloud.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Wal:  you must be lucky or I am unlucky, my Rule bilge pump float switches 
last from one to 3 years and this replacement frequency has been going on 
for the 27 years I've owned my boat!  (My last Rule bilge pump lasted 
about 15 years though--real good service!). I am switching to a completely 
enclosed sensing type of switch made by Johnson--I hope it lasts much 
longer!


Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 27 May 2014 15:19:02 -0400
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine
Message-ID: 4f9e9ba5-ceae-447c-aa59-dd8509fca...@earthlink.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I have an M35B in Imzadi. Max RPM is 3000 for that engine. IIRC the max 
torque is between 2400 and 2600 RPM - which is consistent with the rule of 
thumb that max torque is at about 80% of max RPM.


Your engine will thank you if you use it regularly and with significant 
load. Idling for extended periods to charge batteries, it running for long 
periods at low RPMs is not good for it. But 2300 is pretty close to 
2400-2500, so you are probably not doing significant harm. Just don't be 
afraid of going to 2500.


Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

On May 27, 2014, at 12:16, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


Listers,

   Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on your 
diesel engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35

Re: Stus-List First time out at the helm

2014-05-27 Thread Graham Collins via CnC-List

A first outing that didn't involve the insurance company is a success!

I think my first outing was accompanied by mumbling (or outright talk) 
of an idiot at the helm, luckily we were leaving that club to take the 
boat to a new home.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11

On 2014-05-27 9:34 PM, via CnC-List wrote:

Since my darling husband decided to jump ship and file for divorce, I left the dock with 
myself at the helm just this past weekend. My brother and his buddy who knows nothing 
about sAiling were along and I'm so glad they were. Leaving the dock wAs a bit tricky 
since the tide and wind was against us and against the Atomic 4.  We wound up backing out 
of the marina breakwaters after fending off successfully several boats. Embarrassing? Yes 
but a great lesson. And unfortunately upon return, there were mumblings about a 
woman at the helm .   It wasn't pretty  but there was no damage.
Barbara Hickson Fellers




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Re: Stus-List First time out at the helm

2014-05-27 Thread Russ Melody via CnC-List

Hi Barbara,

I will join others in supporting your first time out, well done.

Know that once he jumps ship like that he no longer holds the title 
D.H. but also consider the improvement to the boats performance, a 
couple o' hundred pounds lighter ...  much more if you include the 
junk he insisted on packing around :)


I will guess you have a furling jib. These wonderful devices can turn 
evil in slow speed maneuvering. The wind may influence your bow and 
unbalance your turning effort to either work for or against you. 
Combine that with current and no two days are alike it seems.


You made a good decision to work with the boat and guide her out of 
the marina as she wished.


What is the yacht's name  model?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

P.S. friendly reminder to strip extraneous text from digest message 
before posting, thanks



At 05:34 PM 27/05/2014, you wrote:
Since my darling husband decided to jump ship and file for divorce, 
I left the dock with myself at the helm just this past weekend. My 
brother and his buddy who knows nothing about sAiling were along and 
I'm so glad they were. Leaving the dock wAs a bit tricky since the 
tide and wind was against us and against the Atomic 4.  We wound up 
backing out of the marina breakwaters after fending off successfully 
several boats. Embarrassing? Yes but a great lesson. And 
unfortunately upon return, there were mumblings about a woman at 
the helm .   It wasn't pretty  but there was no damage.

Barbara Hickson Fellers
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